iNionna 


*. 


NARRATIVE 


TEXAN  SANTA  FE  EXPEDITION, 


COMPRISING    A    DESCRIPTION    OK 


A  TOUR  THROUGH  TEXAS, 


ACROSS    THE   GBEAT    SOUTHWESTERN    PRAIKIES,  THE    CAMANCHE  AND 

CAYGUA    HUNTING-GROUNDS,    WITH    AN    ACCOUNT    OF    THE 

SUFFERINGS    FROM    WANT    OF   FOOD,    LOSSES    FROM 

HOSTILE    INDIANS,   AND    FINAL 

CAPTURE   OF  THE   TEXANS, 


THEIR    MARCH,    AS    PRISONERS,    TO   THE    CITY    OF    MEXICO. 
WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  A  MAP. 

BY   GEO.   WILKINS   KENDALL. 

IN      TWO     VOLUMES. 

VOL.    I. 


NE  W-Y  ORK: 
HARPER  AND  BROTHERS,  sz  CLIFF-STREET. 

1844. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  thtt  year  1841,  by 

HARPKH    &    BROTHERS, 
In  the  Clerk's  Ofiiee  of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


A  WORD  with  you,  kind  reader,  before  you  commence  the 
perusal  of  the  following  narrative.  The  object  of  the  author 
has  been  to  tell  his  story  in  a  plain,  unvarnished  way — in  the 
homely,  every-day  language  which  is  at  once  understood  by 
all.  He  will  not,  at  this  time,  apologize  for  any  errors  of 
omission  or  any  broken  links  in  the  principal  chain  of  con- 
nexion which  may  be  noticed ;  he  trusts  that  all  such  faults 
will  explain  themselves  in  the  progress  of  the  narrative,  as 
the  difficulties  he  has  had  to  encounter  become  apparent. 

For  the  description  of  the  Spanish  Missions  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  which  will  be  found  in  the 
early  part  of  the  third  chapter,  the  author  is  principally  in- 
debted to  Mr.  Falconer,  by  whom  full  notes  were  taken  of 
these  old  religious  establishments.  The  author  also  acknowl- 
edges his  indebtedness  to  Mr.  F.  for  the  names  of  the  several 
places  through  which  the  Santa  Fe  prisoners  passed  on  their 
march  from  San  Miguel  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  together  with 
the  dates.  For  dates  and  events  previous  to  the  capture  of 
the  expedition  he  has  been  obliged  to  rely  upon  his  own  mem- 
ory, and  upon  that  of  such  of  his  companions  as  he  has  been 
able  to  see  and  converse  with  since  his  return  to  the  United 
States. 

The  main  facts  in  the  history  of  Don  Manuel  Armijo  have 
been  obtained  from  a  gentleman  who  has  known  that  petty 
tyrant  and  his  career  for  nearly  fifteen  years.  The  author  has 
only  added  such  incidents  as  came  under  his  personal  obser- 
vation. 


11  PREFACE. 

In  making  up  the  map  of  the  country  between  the  Cross 
Timbers  and  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  much  informa- 
tion has  been  obtained  from  Mr.  Gregg,  an  intelligent  mer- 
chant who  has  been  for  many  years  engaged  in  the  Santa  Fe 
trade,  and  also  from  Albert  Pike,  Esq.,  of  Arkansas.  Both 
these  gentlemen  have  travelled  over  the  immense  prairies, 
stretching  from  the  western  limits  of  Louisiana  and  Arkansas 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  both  agree  with  the  author  in 
his  remarks  in  relation  to  Red  River.  Of  course,  in  the  con- 
struction of  this  map,  much  of  what  the  Yankees  term  "  guess 
work1'  has  been  resorted  to ;  but  it  will  be  found,  in  the  main, 
correct. 

A  few  of  the  incidents  in  the  first  volume  of  this  work, 
which  appeared,  in  a  series  of  rough  sketches,  in  the  New- 
Orleans  Picayune  of  1842,  have  since  been  stolen  from  that 
journal  and  incorporated  with  the  "  Narrative  of  Monsieur  Vi- 
olet," written  by  Captain  Marryat  and  published  in  London 
during  the  fall  of  1843.  The  author  has  deemed  this  exposi- 
tion necessary,  lest  some  of  his  readers,  unacquainted  with  the 
circumstances  and  who  may  peruse  both  books,  should  suspect 
him  of  having  poached  upon  the  wondrous  tale  of  Violet.  The 
larceny  lies  at  the  door  of  either  the  Captain  or  the  Monsieur 
— a  matter  they  must  settle  between  themselves. 

Violet's  "  Narrative"  also  contains  an  attack,  directly  im- 
peaching the  veracity  of  the  author  in  the  account  he  has  given 
of  the  murder  of  Golpin.  It  may  not  be  deemed  a  work  of  su- 
pererogation for  him  simply  to  state,  that  this  wanton  attack 
is  made  up  of  deliberate  falsehood.  The  time,  place,  and 
manner  of  the  death  of  the  unfortunate  Texan,  were  precisely 
as  the  author  has  stated  them  :  out  of  more  than  one  hundred 
and  eighty  witnesses  of  the  murder,  many  are  still  living  to 
verify  his  account  in  every  particular. 

In  speaking  of  the  manners,  customs,  institutions,  and  char- 


PREFACE.  Ill 

acter  of  the  Mexicans,  the  author  has  simply  related  what 
came  under  his  own  observation ;  he  has  censured  where  he 
considered  that  reproof  should  fall,  has  praised  where  he 
deemed  commendation  due.  Should  his  strictures  not  meet 
the  approval  of  the  leading  men  of  that  country,  the  blame 
cannot  attach  to  him ;  for  if  the  Mexican  government,  in  its 
wisdom,  saw  fit  to  deny  a  friendly  traveller  the  privilege  of 
viewing  aught  save  the  darker  shades  of  life  while  within  the 
limits  of  that  republic,  it  certainly  cannot  upbraid  him  for 
painting  them  in  all  their  deformity.  In  whatever  light  a  gov- 
ernment or  an  individual  may  choose  to  "  sit  for  a  portrait," 
it  is  certainly  the  duty  of  every  honest  artist  to  give  it  with 
scrupulous  fidelity. 

In  commenting  upon  the  weakness  and  inefficiency  of  his 
own  government,  as  regards  its  external  or  foreign  policy, 
the  author  has  approached  the  subject  with  much  reluctance. 
American  born  and  American  at  heart,  he  has  always  felt  a 
just  pride  in  the  achievements  of  his  countrymen,  in  their 
firm  and  untiring  opposition  to  all  usurpation  and  tyranny,  and 
to  every  infringement  upon  their  liberties.  The  people  of  the 
United  States — the  mass  from  whom  all  power  emanates — 
although  ever  ready  to  sustain  their  rulers  in  the  protection 
of  the  humblest  of  their  countrymen  while  abroad,  are  too  fre- 
quently kept  in  ignorance  of  the  wrongs  they  suffer  through 
the  inattention  of  those  who  are  bound  to  redress  every  en- 
croachment upon  their  rights.  Were  it  not  that  the  exposure 
of  errors  and  abuses  is  the  only  means  of  ensuring  their  cor- 
rection, the  author  would  shrink  from  lifting  the  curtain  which 
conceals  almost  the  only  weak  point  in  the  administration  of 
his  government.  For  proof  of  the  correctness  of  his  stric- 
tures he  has  only  to  refer  to  every  American  who  has  visited 
Mexico. 

The  engravings  which  accompany  this  work  demand  a  short 


IV  PREFACE. 

notice.  The  scene  in  the  buffalo  range — the  "  scamper"  after 
those  huge  animals — is  a  truthful  picture  from  the  quick  and 
fertile  imagination  of  Chapman.  Scenes  of  a  similar  nature 
were  of  almost  daily  occurrence  while  the  Santa  Fe  pio- 
neers were  in  the  buffalo  region,  and  the  artist  seems  to  have 
caught  the  spirit  of  the  exciting  chase.  The  "  Incident  upon 
the  Prairies"  is  from  a  design  by  Casilear,  and  gives  a  faithful 
delineation  of  a  wild  and  singular  race.  Both  these  engra- 
vings are  from  the  burin  of  Messrs.  Jordan  and  Halpin,  and 
need  no  commendation.  The  view  of  "  Puente  Nacional"  is 
taken  from  Ward's  work  upon  Mexico,  the  diligencia  and  the 
litera  only  added.  The  "  City  of  Guanajuato"  is  from  the 
same  work,  and  gives  a  faiihful  view  of  the  place  :  the  author 
cannot  say  as  much  for  the  appearance  of  the  Texan  prison- 
ers. They  did  not  ride  thus  far  into  the  city,  and  to  attempt 
to  picture  them  with  fidelity  would  be  impossible.  The  en- 
graving of  the  Mexican  girls  is  adopted  from  Nebel,  and  is 
given  to  show  the  costume  and  one  of  the  customs  of  the  fe- 
males of  that  country. 

Another  word  or  two,  and  the  author  will  throw  himself 
upon  the  kindness  of  his  reader.  His  attempt  has  been  to  in- 
terest and  amuse ;  should  it  be  thought  that  he  has  thrown 
too  much  levity  amid  scenes  of  suffering  and  of  gloom,  his 
excuse  must  be  that  he  belongs  rather  to  the  school  of  laugh- 
ing than  crying  philosophers — to  a  class  who  would  rather  see 
a  smile  upon  the  face  of  melancholy  than  a  tear  in  the  eye  of 
mirth. 


\ 

CONTENTS 

OF 

THE    FIRST    VOLUME. 
CHAPTER  I. 

Objects  of  the  first  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition. — Determination  to  accom- 
pany it. — The  Western  Limits  of  Texas. — Her  Claim  to  the  Rio  Grande. 
— Colonel  Butler's  contemplated  Expedition  to  Santa  Fe. — Causes  of  its 
Failure. — Preparations  for  joining  the  Texans. — Departure  from  New-Or- 
leans.— Steam-ship  New-York. — Captain  Wright's  Specific  against  Thirst. 
— Arrival  at  Galveston. —  Frank  Combs.  —  City  of  Houston. — Stories  of 
old  Hunters  and  Campaigners. — Houston  Horse  Jockeys. — Choice  of  an 
Animal. — Leave  Houston  for  Austin. — Ladies  on  Horseback. — Race  with 
a  Thunder-shower. — Incidents  upon  the  Road. — Arrival  at  Austin. — Mr. 
Falconer. — English  Travellers. — Party  to  San  Antonio  made  up.  —  Jim 
the  Butcher  sent  to  the  Stable. — Mexican  Mountain  Pony. — His  Musta- 
ches, and  Powers  of  Endurance Page  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Leave  Austin  for  San  Antonio. — Prospects  of  a  Shower. — Singular  Conduct 
of  Mat  Small. — A  regular  Soaking. — Crossing  the  Colorado. — No  Bottom 
for  short-legged  Animals. — Venison  for  Supper. —  More  of  Mat  Small. — 
Damp  Lodgings. — Serenade  of  Wolves. — Meeting  with  old  Friends. — The 
St.  Mark's. — Head  Springs. — Disturbance  at  Night. — Arrival  of  Friends 
from  Austin. — Journey  towards  San  Antonio  renewed. — Colonel  Cooke  in 
search  of  a  Short  Cut.  —  Encounter  with  a  Texan  War  Party.  —  Hostile 
Indians  about. — A  Texan  killed. — Mr.  Falconer's  Portrait  taken  while  sit- 
ting upon  a  Mule. — Amusing  Adventure. — More  scared  than  hurt. — The 
Guadalupe.  —  The  Salado.  —  Night  Entry  into  San  Antonio. — Yelping 
Curs.— Fun  at  a  Fandango.  —  A  Mexican  Dance.  —  Monte.  —  Getting  the 
Hang  of  the  Game. — Return  to  Lodgings. — Comparative  Merits  of  Floors. 
— Difference  between  Plank,  Stone,  and  Earth. — Rough  Life  in  Perspec- 
tive.— Nothing  after  getting  used  to  it 31 

CHAPTER  III. 

Description  of  San  Antonio. — Fondness  of  the  Women  for  Bathing. — Cli- 
mate.— Irrigating  Canals. — Fruits. — The  old  Spanish  Missions. — Objects 


VI  CONTENTS. 

for  which  they  were  constructed. — The  Alamo. — Concepcion. — San  Juan. 
— San  Jose. — La  Espada. — Bowie  and  Crockett. — Church  of  San  Antonio. 
— Anecdote  of  General  Cos. — Mexican  Merchants  from  the  Rio  Grande. — 
Return  to  Austin. — Incidents  upon  the  Road. — A  Texan  Leather  Stocking. 
— An  Adventure.— Out-tricking  a  Party  of  Indians. — Another  Night  at  the 
St.  Mark's. — Fruitless  Chase  after  Camanches. — Hog-wallow  Prairie. — Ar- 
rival at  Camp. — More  of  the  Camanches. — Plain  Supper  and  good  Appe- 
tite.— Insight  into  Astronomy. — Once  more  at  Austin. — A  Fall  in  the 
Dark. — Speculations  while  falling.  —Broken  Bones, — Dancing  Days  over, 
or  the  "  Jig  up." — Consolation  under  Misfortune  .  .  .  Page  35 

CHAPTER   IV. 

Visit  from  General  Lamar. — Preparations  for  a  Start. — Pleasant  Anticipa- 
tions.— Northers. — Bright  Side  of  the  Picture. — Speculations  as  to  the  Re- 
ception of  the  Expedition  at  Santa  Fe. — No  Thoughts  of  Fighting  the  New 
Mexicans. — Senor  Navarro. — A  Jersey  Wagon  provided. — Departure  from 
Austin. — Adieu  to  Civilization. — A  modern  Athens. — Its  sudden  Rise,  and 
more  sudden  Fall. — President  Lamar  in  Camp. — Arrival  at  the  Brushy. — 
General  Joy  among  the  Pioneers. — Reviewed  by  the  President. — Order  of 
March. — Tricks  of  young  Oxen. — Upsets. — Arrival  at  the  San  Gabriel. — 
Camp  Stories. — Opossum  Creek. — Scene  of  a  Fight  with  the  Camanches. 
— Anecdote  of  two  Brothers. — A  night  Storm. — Buffalo  in  Sight. — Petri- 
factions.— Stories  of  Buffalo. — A  Youngster  caught. — Methods  of  Hunting 
the  Buffalo. — A  regular  Chase. — Buffalo  on  every  Side. — Fitzgerald,  and 
his  Zeal. — Falconer  among  the  Buffalo. — Returns  of  Killed  and  Wounded. 
— Arrival  at  Little  River. — Buffalo  Calves  in  Camp. — Manner  of  taking 
them 63 

CHAPTER  V. 

Sending  back  for  more  Cattle. — Rations  of  Beef  for  each  Man. — Idle  Hours 
in  Camp. — Annoying  Insects. — Night  Alarms. — Death  of  Lockridge. — A 
Dutchman  shot  at. — Improvident  Waste  of  Provisions. — Game  in  our  Vi- 
cinity.— Sickness  of  General  McLeod — Once  more  on  the  Road. — Bird's 
Battle-ground. — A  Visit  from  Mustangs. — The  "  White  Steed  of  the  Prai- 
ries."—Stories  in  relation  to  this  Horse. — Cow  Creek. — Plenty  of  Buffalo. 
— Repairing  Wagons. — Profanity  of  the  Teamsters. — Out  of  Water. — 
Fourth  of  July  on  the  Prairies. — Celebration  among  the  Clouds. — A 
troublesome  Visiter. — Rattlesnakes  and  Tarantulas. — Death  of  Flint. — 
Crossing  the  Bosque  — The  Antelope,  or  Mountain  Goat. — Simplicity  of 
this  Animal. — Another  Branch  of  the  Bosque. — Difficulty  of  crossing. — 
More  Swearing. — A  Stampede  ! — Singular  Effect  of  Fright  upon  Horses 
and  Oxen. — Falconer's  Horse  at  his  Eccentricities. — A  Private  Stampede. 
— Laughable  Antics. — Falconer's  Philosophy 84 


CONTENTS,  Vll 

CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Valley  of  Cedral  Creek.  —  Singular  Natural  Road.  — Another  Delay. — 
Arrival  of  General  McLeod  with  additional  Cattle. —  The  March  resumed. 
— Bad  Travelling.  —  Delicious  Spring  of  Water. —  Valley  of  the  Brazos. — 
Fondness  of  our  Animals  for  its  Waters.  —  Crossing  the  Brazos.  —  Prairie 
on  Fire.  —  Out  of  Water  again.  —  Sufferings  of  Man  and  Beast.  —  A  cool 
Spring  discovered.  —Natural  Bathing-tub. —  Fresh  Indian  "  Sign." — A  re- 
cently-deserted Village. — Trick  of  a  Wag. — The  Camanche  Peak. — "  See- 
ing the  Elephant." — The  "  Cross  Timbers." — Description  of  this  singular 
Forest.  —  Arrival  at  Noland's  River.  —  Destruction  of  our  Tents.  —  The 
crossing  of  Noland's  River. — Deserted  Indian  Village. —  Latitude  and  Lon- 
gitude taken.  —  In  the  Midst  of  our  Troubles  — Our  last  Day  in  the  "  Cross 
Timbers."  —  A  gloomy  Night.  —  Once  more  upon  the  open  Prairie.  —  A 
hearty  Meal.  —  Speculations  as  to  the  Route  we  had  taken,  —  The  Banks 
of  Red  River  supposed  to  be  visible Page  100 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Trail  of  the  Chihuahua  Traders. — Causes  of  the  Failure  of  that  Enterprise. 
— A  fresh  Indian  "  Burn." — Dr.  Whittaker  lost. — Indian  Dogs. — Their  for- 
lorn Appearance. — Exciting  Scene. — An  Indian  Buffalo  Chase. — Well  rid 
of  annoying  Visitors. — Buffalo  Meat  for  Dinner. —  Pack  of  miserable  Curs. 
— A  recently-deserted  Indian  Camp. — Dr.  Whittaker  again  among  us. — A 
white  Flag  sent  out.  —  Beautiful  Camping-ground. — An  Eclipse.  —  Once 
more  on  Horseback, — Singular  Chnse. — Both  Parties  mistaken. — A  Soak- 
ing.— Carlos,  a  Mexican,  joins  the  Spy  Company. — Plausibility  of  his  Sto- 
ries.— The  supposed  Red  River.— Parley  with  a  Party  of  Wacoes. — Their 
Insolence. — Arrival  at  a  Waco  Village. — Its  desertion  by  the  Inhabitants. 
— Beautiful  Location  of  the  Town. — Its  Houses  and  Corn-fields. — An  In- 
dian Musical  Instrument. — Speculations  upon  Love. — High  State  of  Civi- 
lization of  the  Wacoes. —  Causes  of  the  Hostility  of  the  Wacoes  to  the 
Texans. —  Departure  from  the  Village.  —  Brackish  Water.  —  Fear  of  the 
Prairie  Indians  of  Artillery. — Origin  of  this  Fear  ....  120 

CHAPTER  VIII.   . 

Join  the  Spy  Company. — Farther  Speculations  as  regards  Red  River. — Ad- 
vantages of  travelling  with  the  Spies. — Beautiful  Streams  and  cool  Ar- 
bours.— Visit  from  Mustangs. — A  dashing  wild  Horse. — Different  Modes 
of  catching  Mustangs. — Indians  in  Sight. — Guarding  against  a  night  At- 
tack.— Description  of  Country. — Rough  Travelling. — Arrival  at  a  Fresh- 
water Stream. — Carlos  thinks  Himself  at  Home. — General  Joy  in  Cainp. 
— Scanty  Rations. — A  Shower  and  a  Stampede. — Cross  the  supposed  Red 
River  again. — Scarcity  of  "  Sign." — Mountains  ahead. — A  Labyrinth  of 
Difficulties. —  Broken  Country. — A  hunting  Adventure. — Get  lost  upon 
the  Prairie.  —  Hopelessness  of  my  Situation.  —  Ruminations  upon  the 
Horrors  of  being  Lost.  —  Fortunate  Escape  from  Difficulty.  —  A  Ride 


Vm  CONTENTS. 

through  u  Rattlesnake  Region. — Once  more  among  my  Friends. — Unpleas- 
ant Dreams. — A  Mesquit  Prairie. — Carlos  again  "  at  Home." — Three  of 
the  Texans  sent  forward  to  the  Settlements. — Carlos  takes  the  Guidance 
of  the  Expedition. — A  Buffalo  Chase. — River  seen  to  the  South. — An  Ad- 
venture with  Deer. — Great  Waste  of  Powder  and  Ball. — A  severe  Case  of 
the  "  Buck  Ague." — Symptoms  and  general  Appearance  of  that  singular 
Disease Page  145 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Brackish  "W  ater. — Los  Cuervos,  or  The  Crows. — Carlos  and  his  Speculations. 
— Stream  on  our  Left  visited.— Opinion  of  "  Old  Paint." — Startling  Sur- 
mises.— No  Water. — Endurance  of  the  Mule. — Singular  Valley. — Water 
seen  in  the  Distance. — Perilous  Descent  of  a  Bluff. — Arrival  at  the  River. — 
More  Brackish  Water. — An  Alarm. — Fire  in  Camp. — Terrific  Spread  of  the 
Flames. — Explosion  of  Cartridges. — Night  Ascent  of  the  Bluffs. — Ravages 
of  the  Fire. — Extent  of  our  Loss. — Magnificent  night  Scene. — Our  Camp 
by  Daylight. — Coffee  too  much  burned. — Compelled  to  fall  back  upon  First 
Principles. — Again  on  the  March. — Intolerable  Suffering  from  Thirst. — A 
Beautiful  Camp. — Disappearance  of  Carlos  and  Brignoli. — Horrors  of  our 
Situation. — Lost,  and  without  a  Guide  upon  the  Prairies. — Shower  on  the 
Espy  Principle. — Party  sent  out  to  Explore. — Rough  Travelling. — Gloomy 
Prospects. — Return  to  Camp.— Ten  Miles  for  a  Draught  of  Water. — "Do- 
ing" our  Washing. — Company  of  Spies  sent  out. — Death  of  Doctor  Brashear. 
— Bitter  Water. — Rations  reduced. — Sufferings  now  commencing. — Return 
of  one  of  the  Spies. — Again  on  the  March. — Visit  to  a  Commonwealth  of 
Prairie  Dogs. — Description  of  these  singular  Animals  ....  173 

CHAPTER  X. 

A  Meal  of  Prairie  Dogs. — Arrival  at  another  brackish  Water  Camp. — Shower 
at  Night,  with  fresh  Water  in  the  Morning. — Return  of  the  Spy  Company. 
— A  regular  "  Northeaster."— Report  of  the  Spies.  —  Disagreeable  Biv- 
ouac.— Indians  in  Camp. — Horses  stolen. — A  bad  Bargain. — Daring  of  the 
Indians. — Fine  Weather  again. — Once  more  on  the  Road. — Dog  Towns. 
— Meeting  with  a  Party  of  Indians. — Horse  Meat  far  from  being  bad  Eat- 
ing.— Wolves  about. — A  dreary  Desert. — Delicious  fresh-water  Stream. — 
Latitude  and  Longitude  again  taken.  —  Pleasant  Prospects.  —  Again  en- 
compassed with  Difficulties. — A  Passage  out  found. — Steppes. — Mesquit 
Prairie  and  Prairie  Dogs. — Mountains  in  the  Distance. — Singing  Birds,  and 
Thoughts  of  Home.  —  Delusive  Hopes.  —  More  Horses  stolen.  —  Bed  of 
Large  Rivpr  crossed.  —  Arrival  at  the  Quintufue.  —  Large  Indian  Camp 
discovered. — Caygiias  on  all  Sides. — Indian  Provisions.— A  Party  sent  out. 
—  Farther  Advance  impossible. — A  Night  without  Water.— Preparations 
for  taking  a  back  Tra^k. — Exciting  News. — Firing  of  Guns  heard. — Lieu- 
tenant Hull  and  four  Men  killed  by  Caygiias. — A  Chase  after  Indians. — 
Return  to  the  Quintufue. — Determination  to  divide  the  Command. — De- 
scription of  the  Caygiias  . 195 


CONTENTS.  JX 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Departure  of  the  Advance  in  search  of  the  Settlements. — Summit  of  the 
Steppe  gained. — Level  Prairie  before  us. — A  lovely  Scene. — Speculations 
in  relation  to  Red  River. — A  Bear  Chase.  —  Bruin  noosed. —  The  March 
continued. — Sagacity  of  a  Mule. — Arrival  at  a  singular  Chasm. — Impossi- 
bility of  crossing. — A  heavy  Prairie  Shower. — Appearance  of  our  Men. — 
Description  of  the  Chasm. — A  Crossing  found. — Loneliness  of  the  Prai- 
ries.— Scarcity  of  Game.  —  Begin  to  suffer  Hunger. — Arrival  at  another 
awful  Abyss. — Farther  Difficulty  in  crossing. — Hunger  increasing. — Sin- 
gular Birds. — Mustangs  and  Antelopes. — Their  exceeding  Shyness. — Cur- 
lews.— A  Buffalo  descried. — Preparations  for  a  Chase  to  the  Death. — Tom 
Hancock  and  his  Skill. — Endurance  of  Jim  the  Butcher. — Description  of 
the  Chase. — Poor  Prospects  of  a  Supper Page  215 

CHAPTER  XII. 

A  successful  Search.  —  The  Buffalo  brought  to  Bay. — Appearance  of  my 
Horse  after  the  Chase. — Prospects  of  another  Shower. — Adventure  with  a 
Rattlesnake  in  the  Dark.  —  Fortunate  Escape.  —  The  Shower  upon  us. — 
Buffalo  found  in  the  Morning. — March  resumed. — Swimming  our  Animals. 
— Singular  Method  of  Cooking. — Wolves  in  our  Vicinity. — Encounter  with 
a  Drove  of  Mustangs.  —  Excitement  among  us.  —  Mountains  discovered 
ahead. — Leave  the  grand  Prairie. — Singular  Hills. — Compelled  to  abandon 
our  Course. — Chances  becoming  Desperate. — Suffering  and  Starvation. — 
Large  fresh- water  Stream  discovered. —  Speculations  as  to  its  Name. — 
Mexican  "  Sign"  seen. — More  Remarks  in  relation  to  Red  River. — Plum 
Patches.  —  Carlos  and  Brignoli  seen. — Their  Sufferings.  —  The  Texans 
driven  to  the  greatest  strait  for  Food. — An  Anecdote. — Compelled  to  eat 
broken-down  Horse  Flesh. — A  cold,  raw  Night. — Fairly  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  —  A  beautiful  Valley.  —  A  Feast  of  Catfish.  —  Arrival  at  the 
Angosturas.  —  Encounter  with  a  Party  of  Mexicans.  —  Unwonted  Excite- 
ment.— Matias  sent  back  to  the  Command. — Advance  towards  the  Settle- 
ments.— Farther  Sufferings  of  the  Texans.— Meet  with  an  immense  Herd 
of  Sheep.  —  A  Feast.  —  Dissertation  on  Starvation.  —  Mexican  Shepherds 
and  their  Dogs 239 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Farther  Feasting. — Party  sent  to  the  Settlements. — Author  accompanies  it. — 
Objects  of  sending  the  Party  ahead. — News  respecting  Howland  and  his 
Companions. — Encounter  with  Mexican  Muleteers. — Their  Fright  at  our 
Approach. — Farther  Information  in  relation  to  Howland. — Manuel  sent 
back. — Suspicious  Horsemen  seen. — Arrival  at  Anton  Chico. — Consterna- 
tion of  the  Inhabitants. — Scanty  Raiment  of  the  Women. — Confidence  re- 
stored.— Description  of  Anton  Chico. — Scantiness  of  the  Furniture. — A 
Dinner  under  Cover. — Start  for  San  Miguel. — Compelled  to  return. — A 
Night  at  Anton  Chico. — Bad  Colds,  with  worse  Coughs  to  match. — A  sus- 
4 


X  CONTENTS. 

picious  Visiter. — Report  that  we  were  to  be  arrested. — Start  again  from 
Anton  Chico. — Valuables  concealed. — Arrival  at  Cuesta. — Commotion  in 
the  Village. — Our  Party  surrounded  by  Mexican  Troops. — Apparent  Frank- 
ness of  their  Leader,  Dimasio  Salezar. — Our  Arms  taken  from  us. — Con- 
sultation of  Salezar  and  his  Officers. — We  are  formed  in  Line  and  search- 
ed.— Mexican  Duplicity. — A  trying  Scene. — Prompt  Interference  of  Vigil 
in  saving  our  Lives. — We  are  marched  towards  San  Miguel. — Kindness  of 
the  Women. — Don  Jesus,  and  his  Attempt  to  tie  us. — Description  of  our 
Guard. — Puertecito. — More  of  the  Women. — Arrival  at  San  Miguel. — 
Meanness  of  the  Alcalde  and  Kindness  of  the  Priest. — Our  first  Night  in 
Prison Page  269 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Ordered  to  march  towards  Santa  Fe. — Departure  from  San  Miguel. — Gloomy 
Anticipations. — Our  Guard  increased. — A  Present  from  a  Woman. — Meet 
with  a  Party  of  Mexican  Troops. — Brutality  of  their  Leader. — Lewis,  Van 
Ness,  and  Fitzgerald  tied  with  Cords. — Description  of  Don  Jesus. — Large 
Bodies  of  Troops  passed. — Their  miserable  Appointments — Our  first  In- 
terview with  Governor  Armijo. — His  Reception. — Conduct  of  Lewis. — 
We  are  ordered  back  to  San  Miguel. — Armijo's  last  Command. — Carlos 
seen. — First  Appearance  upon  a  Donkey. — Antics  of  the  Animal. — A  heavy 
night  Shower. — Once  more  at  San  Miguel. — Barbarous  Execution  of  one 
of  our  Comrades. — We  are  ordered  before  the  Governor. — An  exciting 
Trial. — Rowland  condemned  to  Die. — Cruel  Mode  of  Execution.— Noble 
Conduct  of  Howland. — Kindness  of  a  young  Priest. — Reflections  upon  our 
Situation. — Departure  of  Mexican  Troops  for  Anton  Chico.— News  of  Col- 
onel Cooke  and  his  Men. — Plans  of  Armijo. — Particulars  of  the  Capture 
of  Howland. — Description  of  Manuel  Pino. — News  of  the  Capture  of  our 
Friends  at  Anton  Chico. — Great  Rejoicings  at  San  Miguel  .  .  291 

CHAPTER  XV. 

New  Quarters. — Our  Party  taken  before  Armijo. — Reception  by  that  Func- 
tionary.— His  bombastic  Account  of  the  Soldiers  of  New  Mexico. — Again 
taken  to  Prison. — Appearance  of  Armijo. — Description  of  our  Prison. — 
Overrun  with  Chinches. — The  Family  next  Door. — The  Zapatero's  Wife. 
— A  singular  Custom. — The  Seilora  Francisca  abandons  her  Paint. — Dress 
of  the  Females  of  New  Mexico. — Its  Scantiness. — Freaks  of  Fashion. — 
Description  of  the  Reboso  and  Mantilla. — Beauties  of  the  Women  of  Mex- 
ico.— Kindness  of  the  Girls  of  San  Miguel. — Colonel  Cooke's  Men  march- 
ed through  San  Miguel. — Lieutenant  Lubbock's  Account  of  the  Surren- 
der.— Agency  of  Lewis  in  the  Affair. — Change  of  Quarters. — Prison  Occu- 
pations.—Manner  of  passing  our  Time. — Chances  of  an  Escape  canvassed. 
— Arrival  of  Caravans  from  the  United  States.  —  We  are  not  permitted 
Conversation  with  our  Countrymen.— A  seasonable  Supply  of  Luxuries. — 
The  Author  assured  of  his  personal  Release. — A  Mexican  Loafer. — Tomas 
Bustamente—  Employ  him  as  our  principal  Agent. — Thomas  Rowland  — 


CONTENTS.  X 

His  Release  from  Arrest. — Bustamente  sent  on  a  Mission  to  Lewis. — Its 
unsuccessful  Result.  —  Thoughts  upon  Pipes.  —  Bustamente's  Trickery 
found  out.  —  Confidence  lost  in  the  Man.  —  Come  to  the  Conclusion  that 
the  Mexicans  will  bear  watching Page  313 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Arrival  of  a  Party  of  our  Companions  as  Prisoners. — Great  Excitement  in 
San  Miguel. — Recognition  of  our  Friends,  and  their  Departure. — Don  An- 
tonio Baca. — Attachment  of  one  of  his  Daughters  for  a  Texan  Prisoner. — 
"  Old  Paint"  Caldwell  and  Nine  of  his  Men  brought  in  Prisoners. — Still 
greater  Excitement  in  San  Miguel. — The  Patron  Saint  brought  from  his 
Niche  in  the  Church. — A  Mexican  Procession. — A  funny  Figure. — Pro- 
gramme of  the  Procession. — An  old  Priest  with  queer  Spectacles. — A  Pair 
of  Musicians. — More  of  San  Miguel,  the  Patron  Saint. — End  of  the  Pro- 
cession.— Startling  Information. — Bustamente  informs  us  that  all  our  Com- 
rades have  been  taken  Prisoners. — Great  Rejoicing  in  San  Miguel. — Gen- 
eral McLeod  and  other  Texans  brought  into  the  Plaza. — Mr.  Falconer. — • 
Arrival  of  all  the  Prisoners. — Dreadful  Appearance  of  the  Texans. — Lewis 
arrives. — News  that  the  Author  is  to  be  liberated. — Division  of  the  Spoils. 
— Agency  of  Lewis  in  the  Transaction. — A  Visit  from  Lewis. — More  of 
his  Treachery  and  Rascality. — His  Departure  for  Santa  Fe. — A  veritable 
History  of  Don  Manuel  Armijo,  from  his  Youth  upward,  being  a  short  but 
faithful  Narrative  of  his  thieving,  gambling,  assassinating,  and  other  base 
Acts  and  Propensities 334 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Unrealized  Hopes. — A  Brood  of  unhatched  Chickens. — We  are  quartered 
with  our  Companions. — Arrival  of  "  Old  Paint." — Joy  at  seeing  the  Vet- 
eran.— Another  Meeting  with  Friends. — Stories  of  Suffering. — Liberated 
Prisoners  again  confined. — Armijo  and  Lewis. — Departure  for  the  City  of 
Mexico. — A  long  and  gloomy  March  before  us.  —  The  Brute  Salezar  in 
Command. — Bustamente  and  the  Women  of  San  Miguel. — Causes  of  the 
Failure  of  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition.  —  Arrival  at  a  deserted  Mission. — 
Sufferings  of  the  Prisoners  from  Cold. — More  of  Salezar's  Brutalities. — 
The  dreary  March  continued. — Arrival  at  Pino's  Rancho. —  Farther  Suf- 
ferings.— A  cold  Camping-ground. — Hard  Fare. — Frostbitten  Feet. — Hor- 
rible Threat  of  Salezar.— Santo  Domingo.— Kindness  of  the  Women. — San 
Felipe. — First  Sight  of  the  Rio  Grande. — Algodones. — A  Second  "Black 
Hole  of  Calcutta." — Arrival  at  the  Indian  Village  of  Sandia. — A  singu- 
lar Rite. — Description  of  the  Inhabitants.— Alameda. — Scene  in  an  Oven. 
— Misery  makes  us  acquainted  with  strange  Bedfellows. — Sufferings  on 
the  Increase. — Bottoms  of  the  Rio  Grande  ;  their  Fertility. — Albuquerque 
in  Sight. — Herons  and  Wild  Geese. — A  dashing  Mexican  Horseman. — 
Lieutenant  Hornsby  abducted. — Arrival  at  Albuquerque. — The  Family  of 
Armijo. — Farther  Kindness  of  the  Women. — General  Pike's  Journal. — The 
Pretty  Girl  of  Albuquerque 361 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Los  Placeres.  —  Another  dark  Leaf  in  Salezar's  Character.  —  Women  and 
Watermelons.  —  Reappearance  of  Lieutenant  Hornsby.  —  His  singular 
Story  of  Adventure. — The  dashing  Horseman  and  his  gentle  and  generous 
Wife. — Arrival  at  Valencia. — Farther  Sufferings  of  the  Prisoners. — Kind- 
ness of  an  old  Woman. — Death  of  Ernest. — An  American  Traveller. — Cru- 
el Murder  of  McAllister. — Its  Effect  upon  the  Prisoners. — Casa  Colorada. 
— A  comfortable  Camp. — Appearance  of  the  Valley  of  the  Rio  Grande. — 
Uses  of  the  Cotton-wood. — Salezar  and  the  Alcaldes. — The  Mexican  But- 
ton Market.  —  Straits  to  which  the  Prisoners  were  driven.  —  A  Story  of 
Stump. — Magoffin's  Wagons  passed. — American  Drivers. — Not  allowed  to 
hold  Converse  with  them. — Arrival  at  Joya.— A  Fandango. — Salezar  Drunk. 
— Conduct  of  the  American  Drivers  on  the  Occasion. — Parrida. — Crossing 
the  Rio  Grande. — Arrival  at  Socorro. — A  short  Rest  allowed. — Character 
of  the  Inhabitants. — A  Party  of  Apaches. — Anecdote  of  the  Priest  of  Socor- 
ro.— Head  Chief  of  the  Apaches. — His  dignified  Bearing. — Obsequiousness 
of  Salezar. — Basque  de  los  Apaches. — Recrossing  the  Rio  Grande. — The 
Camp  of  Fray  Cristobal.  —  A  Snow-storm  at  Night.  —  Appearance  of  the 
Prisoners  by  Daylight. — Colds  and  Coughs Page  386 


NARRATIVE 


FIRST  TEXAN  SANTA  F     EXPEDITION, 


CHAPTER  I. 

Objects  of  the  first  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition. — Determination  to  accom- 
pany it. — The  Western  Limits  of  Texas. — Her  Claim  to  the  Rio  Grande. 
— Colonel  Butler's  contemplated  Expedition  to  Santa  Fe. — Causes  of  its 
Failure. — Preparations  for  joining  the  Texans. — Departure  from  New-Or- 
leans.— Steam-ship  New-York. — Captain  Wright's  Specific  against  Thirst. 
— Arrival  at  Galveston. — Frank  Combs. — City  of  Houston. — Stories  of 
old  Hunters  and  Campaigners. — Houston  Horse  Jockeys. — Choice  of  an 
Animal. — Leave  Houston  for  Austin. — Ladies  on  Horseback. — Race  with 
a  Thunder-shower. — Incidents  upon  the  Road. — Arrival  at  Austin. — Mr. 
Falconer. — English  Travellers. — Party  to  San  Antonio  made  up. — Jim 
the  Butcher  sent  to  the  Stable. — Mexican  Mountain  Pony. — His  Musta- 
ches, and  Powers  of  Endurance. 

"  WHAT  were  the  objects  of  the  Santa  Fe  Expedi- 
tion?" and  "What  induced  you  to  accompany  it?"  are 
questions  which  have  been  so  often  asked  me,  that  I 
cannot  carry  my  reader  a  single  mile  upon  the  long 
journey  before  us  until  they  are  answered.  Without 
preamble  or  preface,  then,  I  will  to  the  task. 

In  the  early  part  of  April,  1841,  I  determined  upon 
making  a  tour  of  some  kind  upon  the  great  Western 
Prairies,  induced  by  the  hope  of  correcting  a  derange- 
ment of  health,  and  by  a  strong  desire  to  visit  regions 
inhabited  only  by  the  roaming  Indian,  to  find  new  sub- 
jects upon  which  to  write,  as  well  as  to  participate  in 

VOL.  I.— B 


14      CHARACTER  OF  THE  TEXAN  EXPEDITION. 

the  wild  excitement  of  buffalo-hunting,  and  other  sports 
of  the  border  and  prairie  life. 

The  determination  to  take  an  excursion  of  this  kind 
once  made,  my  next  object  was  to  fix  upon  the  route. 
The  prairies  west  of  St.  Louis,  the  hunting-grounds  of 
the  Pawnees  and  other  savage  tribes,  had  been  explo- 
red by  Charles  Augustus  Murray,  and  described  by  his 
graphic  pen ;  here  was  no  new  opening.  Again,  M. 
C.  Field,  one  of  my  assistants  in  the  "  Picayune,"  had 
made  the  journey  to  Santa  Fe  by  way  of  Independence, 
Missouri,  and  a  series  of  articles  written  by  him,  upon 
the  subject  of  his  adventures,  had  found  favour  in  the 
eyes  of  the  public,  being  much  copied  into  other  jour- 
nals. Here  was  another  beaten  and  well-known  road  ; 
yet  I  determined  to  traverse  it  if  no  other  offered. 

About  the  first  of  May  of  the  same  year,  a  number 
of  young  gentlemen'  of  my  acquaintance  set  on  foot  the 
project  of  an  excursion  to  the  prairies  and  buffalo- 
grounds,  taking  either  Fort  Towson  or  Fort  Gibson  in 
the  route,  and  roaming  through  the  Osage  country  and 
over  a  part  of  that  section  visited  by  Washington  Ir- 
ving in  his  foray  upon  the  prairies.  While  canvassing 
the  chances  and  merits  of  a  trip  of  this  kind,  I  met  with 
Major  George  T.  Howard,  then  in  New-Orleans  pur- 
chasing goods  for  the  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition. 

Of  the  character  of  this  enterprise  I  at  once  made 
inquiry.  Major  Howard  informed  me  that  it  was  com- 
mercial in  its  intentions,  the  policy  of  the  then  President 
of  Texas,  General  Mirabeau  B.  Lamar,  being  to  open 
a  direct  trade  with  Santa  Fe  by  a  route  known  to  be 
much  nearer  than  the  great  Missouri  trail.  To  divert 
this  trade  was  certainly  the  primary  and  ostensible  ob- 
ject ;  but  that  General  Lamar  had  an  ulterior  intention 
— that  of  bringing  so  much  of  the  province  of  New 


WESTERN  BOUNDARY  OF  TEXAS.  16 

Mexico  as  lies  upon  the  eastern  or  Texan  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande  under  the  protection  of  his  government — I  did 
not  know  until  I  was  upon  the  march  to  Santa  Fe.  He 
was  led  to  conceive  this  project  by  a  well-founded  be- 
lief that  nine  tenths  of  the  inhabitants  were  discontented 
under  the  Mexican  yoke,  and  anxious  to  come  under 
the  protection  of  that  flag  to  which  they  really  owed 
fealty.  I  say  a  well-founded  belief ;  the  causes  which 
influenced  him  were  assurances  from  New  Mexico — 
positive  assurances  —  that  the  people  would  hail  the 
coming  of  an  expedition  with  gladness,  and  at  once  de- 
clare allegiance  to  the  Texan  government. 

With  the  proofs  General  Lamar  had,  that  such  a  feel- 
ing existed  in  New  Mexico,  he  could  not  act  otherwise 
than  he  did — could  not  do  other  than  give  the  people 
of  Eastern  New  Mexico  an  opportunity  to  throw  off" 
the  galling  yoke  under  which  they  had  long  groan- 
ed. Texas  claimed,  as  her  western  boundary,  the  Rio 
Grande ;  the  inhabitants  within  that  boundary  claimed 
protection  of  Texas.  Was  it  anything  but  a  duty,  then, 
for  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  latter  to  afford  all  its  cit- 
izens such  assistance  as  was  in  his  power  ? 

Texas  claims,  as  I  have  just  stated,  the  Rio  Grande 
as  her  western  boundary  ;  yet,  so  isolated  were  Santa 
Fe,  and  such  of  the  settled  portions  of  New  Mexico  as 
were  situated  on  the  eastern  side  of  that  stream,  that 
the  new  Republic  had  never  been  able  to  exercise  juris- 
diction over  a  people  really  within  her  limits.*  The 
time  had  now  arrived,  so  thought  the  rulers  of  Texas, 
when  rule  should  be  exercised  over  the  length  and 
breadth  of  her  domain — when  the  citizens  of  her  far- 
thest borders  should  be  brought  into  the  common  fold — • 

*  Santa  Fe  is  situated  some  fourteen  miles  east  of  the  Rio  Grande,  on  a 
small  branch  of  that  stream. 


16  ROUTE   OF   THE    EXPEDITION. 

and  with  the  full  belief  in  their  readiness  and  willing- 
ness for  the  movement,  the  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition 
was  originated.  On  its  arrival  at  the  destined  point, 
should  the  inhabitants  really  manifest  a  disposition  to 
declare  their  full  allegiance  to  Texas,  the  flag  of  the 
single-star  Republic  would  have  been  raised  on  the 
Government  House  at  Santa  Fe ;  but  if  not,  the  Texan 
commissioners  were  merely  to  make  such  arrange- 
ments with  the  authorities  as  would  best  tend  to  the 
opening  of  a  trade,  and  then  retire.  The  idea,  which 
has  obtained  credence  to  some  extent  in  the  United 
States,  that  the  first  Texan  Santa  Fe  pioneers  were  but 
a  company  of  marauders,  sent  to  burn,  slay  and  de- 
stroy in  a  foreign  and  hostile  country,  is  so  absurd  as 
not  to  require  contradiction ;  the  attempt  to  conquer  a 
province,  numbering  some  one  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants  within  its  borders,  was  a  shade  too 
Quixotical  to  find  favour  in  the  eyes  of  the  three  hundred 
and  twenty  odd  pioneers  who  left  Texas,  encumbered 
with  wagons,  merchandise,  and  the  implements  of  their 
different  trades  and  callings.  The  expedition  was  un 
fortunate,  and,  as  a  natural  consequence,  the  censorious 
world  has  said  that  it  was  conceived  in  unwise  policy. 
In  the  progress  of  my  narrative,  it  will  be  seen  that  its 
failure  arose  from  causes  purely  fortuitous  ;  in  a  word, 
that  the  enterprise  had  failed  and  been  broken  up  long 
before  those  engaged  in  it  had  reached  the  confines  of 
New  Mexico. 

The  expedition  was  to  leave  Austin,  the  capital  of 
Texas,  about  the  last  of  May  or  first  of  June.  The 
route  to  be  taken  had  not  been  determined  upon  when 
Major  Howard  was  in  New-Orleans,  but  it  was  thought 
that  the  pioneers  would  follow  up  the  San  Saba  road, 
from  San  Antonio  to  Santa  Fe ;  a  route  extending  in 


I 

ANECDOTE  OF  A  FRENCH  GENTLEMAN.       i7 

nearly  a  northwest,  and,  as  was  then  thought,  a  direct 
line.  Fearing  that  there  might  be  a  scarcity  of  water 
on  this  trace,  the  direction  was  afterward  changed. 

That  an  enterprise,  so  purely  commercial  in  its  as- 
pect, was  intended  for  a  hostile  invasion  of  Mexico,  did 
not,  as  I  have  already  stated,  enter  the  mind  of  any  one 
at  the  time — at  least  not  in  Texas,  where  the  inhabitants 
should  be  best  able  to  judge.  That  a  military  force  of 
some  three  hundred  men  accompanied  the  expedition  is 
well  known,  and  it  is  equally  well  known  that  the  route 
across  the  prairies,  whether  by  the  San  Saba  or  the 
Red  River,  would  lead  directly  through  the  very  heart 
of  the  Camanche  and  Caygiia  country — inhabited  by 
Indians  who  are  foes  alike  to  both  Mexicans  and  Tex- 
ans.  It  cannot  be  considered  very  strange,  then,  that 
in  a  country  so  infested  with  hostile  savages  as  Texas 
is,  where  a  man  hardly  dares  go  out  to  catch  his  horse 
without  a  rifle  and  pair  of  pistols  about  him,  a  military 
force  accompanied  this  expedition.  The  number  of  men 
was  really  not  larger  than  that  which  accompanied  the 
earlier  Missouri  enterprises ;  and  large  as  it  was,  it  did 
not  prove  sufficient  for  the  purposes  intended,  many 
valuable  lives  being  taken,  and  a  large  number  of  horses 
stolen,  by  the  Indians  we  encountered  on  the  route. 
These  remarks  I  have  made  to  counteract  assertions 
put  forth  by  the  ignorant  few,  that  the  very  fact  of  a 
military  force  being  sent  with  the  expedition  was  prool 
sufficient  of  its  original  hostile  intentions.  They  would 
have  had  us,  forsooth,  start  off  with  walking-sticks  and 
umbrellas,  and  been  scalped  to  a  man  in  order  to  prove 
our  object  pacific.  Perhaps  their  knowledge  of  the  bar- 
barians, through  whose  territory  we  were  to  pass,  was 
of  a  piece  with  that  of  a  very  worthy  agent  sent  to  Tex- 
as, some  years  ago,  by  the  French  government.  This 

B2 


18  COLONEL  BUTLER'S  EXPEDITION. 

gentleman  planned  an  excursion  after  buffalo,  directly 
into  the  hunting-grounds  of  the  Camanches,  to  be  ac- 
companied only  by  two  of  his  friends  with  servants. 
On  being  told  of  the  certainty  that  he  would  be  killed, 
he  confidently  remarked  that  he  should  carry  the  flag  of 
France  with  him — the  Camanches  would  never  dare  in- 
sult that ! 

It  was  while  making  inquiries,  as  to  the  nature  and 
objects  of  the  Texan  expedition,  that  I  first  heard  of  an 
enterprise  somewhat  similar,  then  in  contemplation  in 
the  United  States.  A  company,  under  the  command 
of  Colonel  Pierce  M.  Butler,  formerly  governor  of  South 
Carolina,  and  well  known  as  an  efficient  and  gallant  of- 
ficer, was  to  leave  a  point  high  up  on  Red  River  for 
Santa  Fe,  having  for  escort  a  body  of  United  States 
dragoons.  What  was  the  object  of  this  enterprise, 
whether  to  counteract  the  Texans  in  their  attempt  to 
divert  the  New  Mexican  trade  or  otherwise,  I  am  un- 
able to  say.  It  was  abandoned,  at  all  events,  for  the 
reason  that  Colonel  Butler  could  not  make  all  his  prep- 
arations in  season  to  ensure  a  sufficiency  of  grass  and 
water  upon  the  prairies ;  but  had  it  started,  I  should 
have  made  one  of  the  party. 

Thus  foiled,  I  finally  resolved  upon  accompanying 
the  Texans.  My  intentions  were,  on  joining  this  expe- 
dition, to  leave  it  before  it  should  reach  Santa  Fe,  so  as 
in  no  way  to  commit  myself,  and  then  to  make  the  en- 
tire tour  of  Mexico — visiting  the  cities  of  Chihuahua, 
Durango,  Zacatecas,  San  Luis  Potosi,  Guanajuato,  and 
others  on  the  road  to  the  capital.  These  intentions  I 
made  known  to  all  my  friends  in  New-Orleans,  not  one 
of  whom  thought  I  should  in  any  way  compromise  my- 
self as  an  American  citizen,  or  forfeit  my  right  to  pro- 
tection, by  the  route  I  proposed  pursuing.  By  a  law  of 


DEPARTURE    FROM    NEW-ORLEANS.  19 

Mexico — a  law  of  which  I  must  confess  myself  at  the 
time  ignorant — a  foreigner  is  prohibited  from  entering 
that  country  through  the  territory  of  Texas  ;  but  the 
only  punishment  for  this  offence  is  being  ordered  out  of 
Mexico  by  the  nearest  road,  a  penalty  which  would 
have  been  very  willingly  submitted  to  by  me  at  any  mo- 
ment while  I  was  in  that  country. 

Having  made  every  other  preparation  for  my  tour 
through  Texas  and  Mexico,  I  went,  on  the  morning  of 
the  15th  of  May,  1841,  in  company  with  James  H. 
Brewer,  Esq.,  to  the  office  of  the  then  Mexican  vice- 
consul  at  New-Orleans,  and  obtained  from  him  a  pass- 
port, which  gave  me  permission  to  enter,  as  an  Ameri- 
can citizen,  any  place  in  the  so-called  Republic  of  Mex- 
ico. Thus  fortified,  and  with  intentions  the  most  pacific 
towards  both  the  countries  through  which  I  was  to  pass, 
on  the  17th  of  May  I  sailed  from  my  native  land,  in  the 
steam-ship  New- York,  Captain  Wright,  for  Galveston. 
On  bidding  adieu  to  my  friends,  I  anticipated  an  exci- 
ting and  interesting  tour  of  some  four  months'  duration, 
and  expected  to  meet  with  the  usual  dangers  and  par- 
ticipate in  the  usual  sports  to  be  met  with  on  the  bor- 
ders and  prairies — nothing  more. 

Our  voyage  from  New-Orleans  to  Galveston  was 
characterized  by  little  worthy  of  remark.  Some  of  the 
passengers  were  seasick,  and  all  such  were  laughed  at ; 
some  of  them  asserted,  very  positively,  that  if  they  could 
once  set  foot  upon  shore,  they  never  would  be  seen  out 
of  sight  of  it,  while  others  said  they  cared  but  little 
whether  they  ever  saw  land  again.  One  circumstance 
I  well  remember :  our  captain  told  me  that  a  piece  of 
raw  hide,  placed  in  the  mouth  while  suffering  thirst, 
would  impart  much  moisture,  and  consequent  relief; 
and  months  afterward,  when  in  a  situation  to  try  the 


20  ARRIVAL    AT    GALVESTON. 

experiment,  I  found  that  there  was  much  truth  in  the 
recipe  of  our  experienced  skipper. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  May  we  reached 
Galveston.  This,  in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  is  the 
most  important  place  in  Texas ;  yet  no  vessel  larger 
than  an  ordinary  sloop  of  war  can  cross  the  bar  at  the 
highest  tide.  The  harbour  is  considered  far  from  safe ; 
yet  it  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  entire  coast,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  Sabine,  and  must  be 
the  point  from  which  a  large  portion  of  the  cotton  and 
other  products  of  Texas  will  always  be  shipped. 

At  Galveston  I  found  every  one  talking  of  the  pro- 
posed Santa  Fe  Expedition.  It  was  looked  upon  as  no- 
thing more  than  a  pleasant  hunting  excursion,  through 
a  large  section  of  country,  much  of  which  was  unknown 
to  the  white  man.  Such  portions  of  the  route  as  had 
been  previously  explored  were  known  to  abound  with 
buffalo,  bear,  elk,  antelope,  and  every  species  of  game, 
besides  fish  and  wild  honey.  The  climate  was  also 
known  to  be  dry  and  salubrious ;  in  short,  until  a  point 
high  up  on  Red  River  should  be  gained,  the  trip  prom- 
ised to  be  one  of  continued  interest  and  pleasure.  But 
beyond  that  point  the  country  was  a  perfect  terra  in- 
cognita, untrodden  save  by  wild  and  wandering  In- 
dians, and  all  were  eager  to  partake  of  the  excitement 
of  being  among  the  first  to  explore  it. 

At  Galveston  I  became  acquainted  with  young  Frank 
Combs,  son  of  General  Leslie  Combs,  of  Kentucky. 
He  had  partially  made  up  his  mind  to  accompany  the 
expedition,  in  the  hope  of  recovering  his  hearing,  which 
had  been  for  some  time  defective ;  on  learning  that  I 
intended  to  start  that  evening  for  Houston,  on  my  way 
to  Austin,  he  made  hurried  preparations  to  set  off  in 
my  company  on  board  a  steamer.  The  next  morning 
we  were  landed  safely  at  Houston. 


STORIES    OF    OLD   CAMPAIGNERS.  21 

Here  all  was  bustle  and  preparation.  A  company 
of  volunteers,  comprising  some  of  the  most  enterprising 
young  men  residing  in  and  about  Houston,  had  been 
formed,  and  all  were  busy  in  making  arrangements  for 
their  departure  for  Austin,  the  point  whence  the  expe- 
dition was  to  take  the  line  of  march  for  Santa  Fe.  Ev- 
ery gunsmith  in  the  place  was  occupied,  night  and  day, 
in  repairing  guns  and  pistols ;  every  saddler  was  at 
work  manufacturing  bullet-pouches,  and  mending  the 
saddles  and  bridles  of  the  volunteers — all  was  hurry, 
preparation,  and  excitement. 

To  give  some  idea  of  the  opinions  entertained  at 
Houston,  of  the  objects  of  the  expedition  to  Santa  Fe, 
I  will  here  describe  the  general  tone  of  conversation. 
Hardly  a  word  was  said  of  any  hostile  collision  with 
the  inhabitants  of  New  Mexico  ;  on  the  contrary,  a 
chase  after  buffalo  or  a  brush  with  the  Camanches  or 
some  of  the  hostile  tribes  known  to  be  wandering  about 
the  immense  Western  prairies,  was  the  principal  topic 
upon  every  tongue.  Old  campaigners  and  hunters 
were  among  the  speakers,  and  the  wild  stories  they 
told  of  their  forays  upon  the  borders  and  beyond  the 
borders  of  civilization,  of  their  hair-breadth  'scapes  and 
encounters  with  bears,  rattlesnakes,  Camanches,  buffa- 
loes, and  other  inhabitants  of  the  boundless  prairies, 
with  the  thousand  and  one  tales  of  the  marvellous  these 
frontier  Leather  Stockings  always  have  at  their  com- 
mand— either  ready  made  or  easy  of  construction  at 
the  time  of  need — all  served  to  render  those  who  had 
already  made  up  their  minds  to  join  the  party  more 
eager  than  ever,  and  induced  the  lukewarm  to  '•  pack 
up"  and  follow  their  example. 

I  remained  at  Houston  some  three  or  four  days,  in 
which  I  made  additional  arrangements  for  the  tour. 


22  HOUSTON    HORSE   MARKET. 

Determined  to  be  in  no  way  connected  with  the  expe- 
dition, farther  than  travelling  with  it  at  my  own  pleas- 
ure, and  for  such  time  as  might  suit  my  own  interest 
and  convenience,  I  had  scrupulously  avoided  involving 
the  Texan  government  in  the  least  expense  in  providing 
the  minutest  article  of  my  outfit.  My  rifle — short,  but 
heavy  barrelled,  and  throwing  a  ball,*  with  great 
strength  and  precision,  a  long  distance — I  had  pur- 
chased of  the  well-known  Dickson,  of  Louisville,  Ky., 
and  a  most  excellent  rifle  it  was.  My  pistols,  powder 
and  lead,  bowie  and  other  knives,  blankets,  accoutre- 
ments for  my  horse,  and  other  implements  and  articles 
necessary  for  a  prairie  tour,  I  had  picked  up  here  and 
there — some  having  been  given  me  by  my  kind  friends 
in  New-Orleans,  while  others  I  had  purchased  before 
leaving  that  city.  My  necessities  now  required  little 
save  a  horse,  and  as  this  was  one  of  the  most  important 
points  in  an  efficient  "  fit  out,"  I  determined  to  take  my 
time  and  obtain  a  good  one. 

Any  one  who  has  entered  the  Houston  horse-market 
with  the  intention  of  purchasing,  is  well  aware  that  it  is 
easy  enough  to  buy  a  nag,  but  not  so  easy  to  procure 
one  of  the  right  sort. 

When  it  became  known  that  i  wished  to  operate  a 
little  in  horseflesh  as  a  purchaser,  all  sorts  of  nags  were 
"  trotted  out"  by  the  different  dealers  and  proprietors. 
There  was  the  heavy  American  horse,  whose  owner 
had  probably  entered  Texas  by  the  inland  or  Red  River 
route,  and  wishing  to  return  by  way  of  New-Orleans, 
had  no  farther  use  for  him ;  then  there  were  the  wiry- 
looking  Indian  pony,  doubtless  broken  down  and  short- 
winded  from  hard  usage ;  the  light  but  game  Mexican ; 
and  last,  the  recently  caught,  restless,  and  apparently 

*  Twenty-four  to  the  pound. 


JIM    THE    BUTCHER.  23 

vicious  mustang,  or  wild  horse  of  the  prairie  :  all  these 
different  samples  were  offered  for  my  inspection,  with 
the  usual  catalogues  of  their  many  merits,  particularly 
their  great  powers  of  endurance.  From  so  large  an 
assortment  I  found  not  a  little  difficulty  in  making  a  se- 
lection. I  looked,  with  an  eye  of  fondness  and  craving, 
upon  a  beautiful  nag,  half  Spanish,  half  wild,  of  fine  ac- 
tion and  most  delicate  points.  I  thought  of  the  "  show 
off"  I  could  make  upon  a  horse  of  this  peculiar  descrip- 
tion, for  he  had  an  ambling  and  a  proud  gait,  but  just  at 
this  moment  prudence  suggested  the  idea  of  the  long 
journey  I  had  before  me,  and  I  purchased  a  heavy  and 
powerful  American  horse  for  four  times  the  sum  with 
which  I  could  have  bought  the  spotted  and  sprightly 
Spanish  pony.  He  was  far  from  being  "  a  good  horse  to 
look  at,"  but  was  "  an  excellent  one  to  go,"  and  never 
was  money  better  invested.  Bravely,  and  without  once 
flagging,  did  he  carry  me  my  long  journey  through, 
ever  ready  to  start  off  on  a  buffalo  or  other  chase,  and 
enduring  to  the  last.  "  Jim  the  Butcher" — not  a  very 
romantic  or  euphonious  name,  but  so  he  was  called  by 
the  man  of  whom  I  purchased  him — is  now  in  the  hands 
of  the  Mexicans,  and  sincerely  do  I  hope  they  have 
treated  him  with  more  kindness  and  consideration  than 
they  did  his  master.  Would  that  I  had  him  now.  Want 
should  never  overtake  him  until  it  had  first  conquered 
me. 

With  the  purchase  of  my  horse  ended  my  immediate 
wants.  I  was  now  fully  armed,  mounted,  and  equipped 
for  the  prosecution  of  my  journey.  I  cannot  take  leave 
of  Houston,  however,  without  tendering  my  thanks  to 
the  many  kind  friends  I  found  there.  To  Captain  Rad- 
cliff  Hudson,  and  Lieutenants  Lubbock  and  Ostrander, 
in  particular,  I  was  under  many  obligations.  They 


24  RACE   WITH  A   SHOWER. 

were  the  officers  elect  of  the  Houston  Company  of 
Santa  Fe  Pioneers,  and  cordially  invited  me  to  mess 
with  them  as  a  "  guest"  on  the  expedition.  Although 
reluctantly  compelled  to  decline  their  invitation,  I  could 
still  appreciate  the  kind  motives  which  induced  them 
to  proffer  it. 

Frank  Combs  and  myself,  with  one  or  two  others 
also  on  their  way  to  Austin,  left  Houston  late  in  the  af- 
ternoon. The  weather  was  hot  and  sultry,  and  dark 
clouds  in  the  southwest  gave  every  indication  of  a 
heavy  shower  before  nightfall.  The  house  that  had 
been  recommended  to  us  to  stop  at  over  night  was 
some  twelve  miles  distant,  inducing  us  to  gallop  rapidly 
along  with  the  hope  of  reaching  our  resting-place  be- 
fore the  coming  down  of  the  shower.  As  we  cleared 
the  pine  woods  by  which  Houston  is  environed,  and 
struck  out  into  the  prairies,  we  met  a  party  of  ladies 
and  gentlemen  on  horseback.  They,  too,  were  press- 
ing their  nags  to  the  utmost,  evidently  to  reach  shelter 
before  the  heavy  black  clouds  should  commence  dis- 
charging their  torrents ;  and  the  loud  and  merry  laugh 
of  the  ladies,  as  they  gayly  and  swiftly  passed  along, 
showed  that  they  were  perfectly  at  home  on  horseback, 
and  heedless  of  any  break-neck  risks  they  might  be 
running. 

After  a  closely-contested  race,  of  an  hour's  duration, 
with  the  shower,  during  which  it  was  almost  impossible  to 
say  which  would  come  out  ahead,  we  finally  reached  our 
stopping-place  neck-and-neck — in  racing  parlance,  made 
a  "  dead  heat"  of  it.  No  sooner  had  we  thrown  our- 
selves from  our  jaded  animals  and  hastily  stripped  them 
of  their  saddles,  than  the  large  and  widely-scattered 
raindrops,  which  usually  precede  a  shower,  gave  place 
to  a  perfect  avalanche  of  water.  Our  log-house  quar- 


THE   LOSS   OF   A  SCALP.  25 

ters,  however,  were  closely  "  chinked  and  daubed,"* 
and  we  passed  a  dry  and  comfortable  night. 

The  heavens  were  still  overhung  with  clouds  on  the 
ensuing  morning,  although  the  rain  had  nearly  subsided. 
After  partaking  of  a  warm  breakfast,  we  resumed  our 
journey  across  the  gently  undulating  and  fertile  prairies 
to  be  found  between  all  the  many  streams  which  water 
Texas.  Although  not  yet  June,  the  corn  was  nearly  as 
high  as  a  man's  head,  and  gave  goodly  token  of  a  most 
abundant  harvest.  The  following  day  we  crossed  the 
Brazos  at  San  Felipe  de  Austin,  formerly  a  place  of 
some  little  note,  but  now  falling  to  decay.  Another  day, 
after  two  or  three  tolerably  severe  drenchings  from  the 
almost  hourly  showers  that  were  falling,  carried  us 
through  Bastrop  to  a  noted  stopping-place  for  travel- 
lers, within  some  twenty  miles  of  Austin.  The  proprie- 
tor of  this  plantation,  with  his  brother  or  son-in-law,  and 
a  few  others,  had  settled  upon  it  long  before  the  revo- 
lution, and  in  the  most  troublous  Indian  times.  Frequent 
and  bloody  were  the  encounters  between  the  whites  and 
their  savage  neighbours,  in  which  the  former  generally 
came  off  victorious,  although  at  times  they  lost  some  one 
of  their  number.  On  taking  seats  at  the  dinner-table, 
in  the  house  I  have  just  mentioned,  I  noticed,  with  some 
little  surprise,  that  one  of  the  male  members  of  the  fam- 
ily sat  down  with  his  hat  on.  I  thought  him  guilty  of 
great  rudeness  or  forgetfulness  ;  but  before  we  left,  the 
mystery  was  explained.  In  one  of  the  early  encounters 
with  the  Indians  he  had  been  shot  down,  tomahawked, 
and  scalped  by  his  brutal  enemies,  and  then  left  for  dead. 
After  remaining  senseless  for  some  time,  the  wounded 

*  The  process  of  filling,  with  clay,  the  interstices  between  the  logs  of  all 
houses  in  the  new  countries — for  there  all  the  houses  are  at  first  made  of  logs 
— is  called  "  chinking  and  daubing." 

VOL.  I.— C 


26  ARRIVAL   AT   AUSTIN. 

man  revived.  He  had  bled  much  from  several  wounds, 
and  was  suffering  extremely  from  pain  ;  yet  he  had 
strength  and  resolution  to  crawl  first  to  a  spring  of  wa- 
ter, and  then  to  his  log-shanty,  a  distance  of  several 
miles.  He  suffers  to  this  day  from  nervous  headache, 
and,  I  believe,  always  wears  his  hat  closely  drawn  down. 
He  is  the  second  person  I  have  seen  who  has  survived 
the  barbarous  process  of  scalping,  and  may  be  looked 
upon  as  a  living  witness  of  what  the  honest  Hibernian 
said  was  a  fact,  namely,  "  that  a  man  is  not  always  dead 
when  he  is  killed !" . 

On  arriving  at  Austin,  I  was  introduced  to  Colonel 
William  G.  Cooke  and  Doctor  R.  F.  Brenham,*  two  of 
the  commissioners  appointed  by  General  Lamar  to  treat 
with  the  inhabitants  of  New  Mexico.  They  informed 
me  that  the  expedition  would  not  leave  under  a  week  at 
least — probably  not  under  ten  or  twelve  days.  This 
delay  I  did  not  much  regret,  as  it  would  give  me  an  op- 
portunity of  visiting  San  Antonio,  by  far  the  most  inter- 
esting place  in  Texas,  not  only  from  the  beauty  of  its  lo- 
cation and  the  old  Spanish  missions  in  its  neighbourhood, 
but  from  its  being  the  spot  where  some  of  the  fiercest 
battles  in  the  early  part  of  the  Texan  Revolution  were 
fought. 

At  Austin  I  first  became  acquainted  with  Mr.  Falco- 
ner, a  young  English  gentleman  of  high  literary  and 
scientific  attainments,  mild  and  agreeable  manners,  and 

*  Poor  Brenham !  He  passed  safely  through  all  the  perils,  hardships,  and 
sufferings  of  the  Santa  Fe  expedition,  to  be  again  taken  prisoner  at  the  san- 
guinary battle  of  Mier,  fought  in  the  early  part  of  the  past  year,  1843. 
While  again  on  his  march  as  a  prisoner  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  Brenham  in- 
duced his  fellow-prisoners  to  join  him  in  an  attempt  to  escape.  He  led  the 
attack  upon  the  guards,  had  already  killed  two  of  them,  and  severely  wound- 
ed a  third,  when  he  stumbled  and  fell  directly  upon  the  bayonet  of  his  falling 
enemy.  Thus  died  Brenham,  and  in  him  Texas  lost  one  of  her  bravest  and 
most  generous  spirits. 


ENGLISH    TRAVELLERS.  27 

what  is  rare  among  his  countrymen  when  away  from 
home,  extremely  sociable  and  companionable  qualities 
from  the  first.  Your  English  traveller,  unless  he  is  an 
old  stager,  has  seen  much  of  the  world,  and  has  learned 
to  take  the  many  discomforts  he  is  sure  to  encounter 
with  composure,  is  prone  to  grumble.  Nature  has 
made  him  a  most  excellent  growler,  but  not  a  traveller ; 
and  he  cannot  combat  against  her  arbitrary  laws.  Meet 
him  in  a  stage-coach,  a  steamboat,  or  a  railroad  car, 
and  as  far  as  his  dress  goes — for  no  man  knows  better 
how  to  dress,  while  travelling,  than  an  Englishman* — 
all  is  right ;  but  attempt  to  draw  him  into  conversation,* 
and  he  will  wrap  a  hauteur  about  him  more  impenetra- 
ble than  his  rough  overcoat.  He  will  answer  your 
question,  it  is  true,  but  in  such  a  way  that  you  think 
he  wishes  to  shut  the  gate  against  your  asking  another. 
His  yes  is  short  and  quick,  like  the  breaking  of  a  pipe- 
stem  ;  his  no  comes  snappingly  from  him,  like  the  growl 
of  a  hyena  when  punched  through  the  bars  of  his  cage 
with  a  long  pole.  Yankee  ingenuity  tries,  but  in  vain, 
to  find  out  his  name,  his  place  of  residence,  his  business — 
in  short,  who  or  what  he  is — and  all  this  while  the  close 
observer  may  detect  a  half  smile  of  self-satisfaction  on 
the  round  and  ruddy  face  of  John  Bull,  as  he  cruelly, 
yet  successfully  puzzles  his  indefatigable  interlocutor. 

Yet,  with  all  his  coldness  and  unapproachability,  one 
cannot  help  admiring  the  English  traveller.  There  is 
nothing  assumed  or  studied  in  his  formality — all  is  nat- 

*  How  different  with  the  American  traveller.  He  must  needs,  on  starting 
on  a  journey,  array  himself  in  his  "  Sunday-go-to-meeting"  dress.  He  makes 
his  toilet  with  the  greatest  care,  alike  regardless  of  rain,  dust,  or  sparks 
from  locomotives.  The  Englishman  laughs  at  him,  and  with  good  show  of 
reason  ;  for  a  more  absurd  custom  could  not  well  be  devised.  I  have  been 
pleased  to  observe,  of  late,  that  my  countrymen  are  gradually  dropping  thi» 
foolish  habit. 


28  ENGLISH    TRAVELLERS. 

ural.  He  never  asks  questions — never,  therefore,  gives 
you  an  excuse  for  addressing  questions  to  him.  You 
think  him  unsocial  and  distant,  from  the  coldness  of  his 
answers :  he  thinks  you  impertinent  and  forward,  from 
the  boldness  of  your  questions.  Both,  to  a  certain  de- 
gree, are  right — and  both  are  wrong.  Could  a  medium 
rule  of  conduct  be  adopted,  I  am  not  certain  that  the 
ethics  of  those  little  sovereignties — the  stage-coach,  the 
car,  and  the  steamboat — would  not  be  greatly  improved. 
I  have  said  that  the  Englishman  is  not  "  cut  out"  for 
a  traveller  ;  nor  is  he.  With  all  the  comforts  of  home 
about  him,  he  will  still  find  something  to  grumble  at — 
but  when  he  leaves  it,  everything  goes  wrong.  The 
roads  over  which  he  travels  are  bad,  the  landlords  of  the 
houses  where  he  may  chance  to  stop  are  unaccommo- 
dating, the  servants  are  inattentive,  the  beef  is  over- 
done, the  mutton  is  tough  and  unsavoury.  All  this  may 
be  true,  to  a  certain  extent,  for  your  traveller  cannot 
find  everything  to  his  liking  or  taste  away  from  his  own 
homestead  ;  but  where  your  American  good-humoured- 
ly  cracks  a  hyperbolical  joke  at  the  expense  of  the  land- 
lord ;  where  your  Frenchman  shrugs  his  shoulders,  and 
grins  and  bears  it ;  where  your  German  resorts  to  his 
pipe  or  cigar  for  consolation,  your  Englishman  "  makes 
a  muss"  about  it,  and  growls  his  dissatisfaction  in  looks 
and  in  words.  While  in  the  stage-coach,  should  your 
only  companion  by  chance  be  an  Englishman,  you 
would  be  led  to  think  that  a  sentence  to  six  months'  im- 
prisonment on  the  "  silent  system"  would  be  neither  pun- 
ishment nor  bore  to  him ;  but  set  him  down  to  his  din- 
ner, at  a  common  roadside  tavern,  and,  like  Billy  Bot- 
tom in  the  old  play,  he  will  "  roar  you  like  any  lion." 
But  in  the  social  circle,  or  in  the  drawing-room,  where 
the  formalities  of  a  regular  introduction  have  been  gone 


MAT    SMALL.  29 

through,  there  our  friend  John  is  a  (afferent  sort  of  per- 
sonage— there  an  English  gentleman  is  a  gentleman 
in  every  sense  of  the  word.  Having  now  left  our  Eng- 
lishman in  comfortable  quarters,  where  he  is  enjoying 
himself,  I  will  return  to  my  friend,  Mr.  Falconer. 

He  informed  me  that  he  had  some  little  business  at 
San  Antonio,  and  that  he  should  start  on  the  ensuing 
day,  in  company  with  one  or  two  friends,  for  that  city. 
Here  was  just  the  opportunity  I  wished  for.  The  dis- 
tance from  Austin  to  San  Antonio  is  some  eighty  miles, 
without  a  single  human  habitation  on  the  route.  Par- 
ties of  hostile  Indians  are  continually  hovering  about  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  road,  ready  to  attack  any  party  they 
may  think  themselves  able  to  overcome.  The  bones  of 
many  unfortunate  white  men  are  now  bleaching  upon 
the  prairies,  between  the  two  cities,  where  the  travel- 
lers were  waylaid  and  killed.  At  one  time  the  way- 
farer is  shot  at  by  a  party  of  foot  Indians  from  some 
cover  or  ambuscade  ;  at  another,  he  is  attacked  upon 
the  open  prairies  by  a  superior  number  of  mounted  Ca- 
manches — a  tribe  that  appear  to  live,  move,  and  have 
their  being,  or,  in  other  words,  to  eat,  sleep,  work  and 
fight,  on  horseback. 

Mr.  Falconer's  little  party  consisted  of  himself,  a  Ken- 
tuckian  named  Mat  Small,  and  a  Canadian  Frenchman 
named  Gramont.  Small  had  received  the  first  rudi- 
ments of  a  hunter's  education  in  Kentucky,  and  had  fin- 
ished it  in  Texas.  An  experience  so  extensive,  and 
formed  upon  such  excellent  models,  had  rendered  him 
somewhat  noted  the  country  round  for  his  science  and 
skill  as  a  finished  borderer.  Gramont,  on  the  contrary, 
had  been  educated  at  Trois  Rivieres  for  the  priesthood, 
but  had  never  taken  holy  orders.  He  was  now,  instead 
of  selling  masses  and  hearing  confessions  at  so  much 
C2 


30  MEXICAN    MOUNTAIN    PONY. 

apiece,  quietly  pursuing  the  calling  of  a  surveyor  in  the 
country  of  San  Patricio,  to  which  point  he  was  on  his 
way.  This  was  Mr.  Falconer's  entire  force,  and  with  this 
he  had  made  all  his  arrangements  for  the  journey ;  but 
he  was  now  re-enforced  by  myself  and  Frank  Combs, 
the  latter  having  made  up  his  mind  to  join  the  party. 
We  thus  mustered  five  strong,  all  well  armed  and  equip- 
ped for  a  trip  that  is  set  down  as  extra-hazardous. 

Wishing  to  give  my  horse  every  chance  to  gain  flesh 
and  strength  before  starting  for  Santa  Fe,  I  left  him  with 
a  livery-stable  keeper  at  Austin,  and  hired  a  little,  rough- 
looking  Mexican  mountain  pony  in  his  stead.  The  lat- 
ter was  considerably  advanced  in  years,  disposed  to  take 
every  advantage,  and  shirk  from  everything  in  the  shape 
of  hard  work.  He  moreover  had  a  huge  pair  of  mus- 
taches on  his  upper  lip,  appendages  which  belong,  I  be- 
lieve, almost  exclusively  to  horses  from  his  particular 
section  and  of  his  particular  species  ;  at  all  events,!  have 
never  seen  them  worn  by  other  nags.  He  was  tough, 
however,  as  wrought  iron,  and  although  one  hour's  ri- 
ding would  bring  on  a  lazy  fit,  ten  would  not  tire  him ; 
a  fact  of  which  I  had  most  abundant  evidence  after- 
ward. 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE.          31 


CHAPTER  II. 

Leave  Austin  for  San  Antonio. — Prospects  of  a  Shower. — Singular  Conduct 
of  Mat  Small. — A  regular  Soaking. — Crossing  the  Colorado. — No  Bottom 
for  short-legged  Animals. — Venison  for  Supper. —  More  of  Mat  Small. — 
Damp  Lodgings. — Serenade  of  Wolves. — Meeting  with  old  Friends. — The 
St.  Mark's. — Head  Springs. — Disturbance  at  Night — Arrival  of  Frien-Js 
from  Austin. — Journey  towards  San  Antonio  renewed. — Colonel  Cooke  in 
search  of  a  Short  Cut.  —  Encounter  with  a  Texan  War  Party.  —  Hostile 
Indians  about. — A  Texan  killed. — Mr.  Falconer's  Portrait  taken  while  sit- 
ting upon  a  Mule. — Amusing  Adventure. — More  scared  than  hurt. — The 
Guadalupe.  —  The  Salado.  —  Night  Entry  into  San  Antonio.  —  Yelping 
Curs. — Fun  at  a  Fandango.  —  A  Mexican  Dance,  —  Monte.  —  Getting  the 
Hang  of  the  Game. — Return  to  Lodgings. — Comparative  Merits  of  Floors. 
— Difference  between  Plank,  Stone,  and  Earth. — Rough  Life  in  Perspec- 
tive.— Nothing  after  getting  used  to  it. 

THE  morning  of  the  day  on  which  we  were  to  start 
for  San  Antonio  was  unusually  hot  and  sultry,  with 
hardly  a  breath  of  air  stirring.  We  had  determined 
upon  leaving  Austin  late  in  the  afternoon,  riding  about 
twelve  miles,  and  then  encamping  for  the  night  on  the 
banks  of  a  small  creek.  This  plan  is  generally  adopted 
by  persons  travelling  between  the  two  places,  although 
they  are  obliged,  in  consequence,  to  "  camp  out"  two 
nights  instead  of  one  ;  but  as  starting  early  in  the  morn- 
ing makes  two  long  and  tiresome  days'  marches,  the 
former  plan  is  deemed  the  most  feasible  and  agreeable. 

After  dinner,  while  we  were  saddling  our  horses  and 
making  preparations  for  departure,  a  black  cloud  about 
the  size  of  a  buzzard  was  seen  in  the  southwest.  Be- 
fore we  were  ready  to  mount,  this  cloud  had  spread 
over  the  whole  quarter  of  the  sky  where  it  made  its 
first  appearance.  The  distant  rumbling  of  thunder  \vas 


32  PROSPECTS    OF    A    SHOWER. 

by  this  time  plainly  heard,  and  the  most  uninitiated  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  "  weather-wise,"  could  easily  enough 
see  that  a  tremendous  shower  was  shortly  to  break 
over  us.  Such  prudence  as  I  was  at  that  time  in  pos- 
session of,  though  unenlightened  by  experience  in  what 
most  appertains  to  bodily  comfort  in  the  forest  and 
prairie,  suggested  that  if  we  were  to  send  our  nags  to 
the  stable,  until  the  shower,  or  at  least  the  weight  of  it, 
should  be  over,  our  evening  ride  would  be  more  agree- 
able and  the  risk  of  catching  cold  far  less  ;  but  instead 
of  pursuing  this  course.  Mat  Small  seemed  hurrying 
himself  to  the  utmost  to  make  a  start  before  the  rain 
began  to  fall,  as  if  anxious  to  get  the  full  benefit  and 
luxury  of  the  shower,  if  any  it  had.  He  appeared  to 
be  our  leader,  though  self-delegated ;  and  against  his 
experience  I  deemed  it  prudent  not  to  raise  a  murmur. 
Not  a  word  did  he  utter — his  very  look  was  law. 

To  a  person  who,  like  myself,  had  been  admonished 
from  early  infancy,  both  by  precept  and  example,  to 
keep  within  doors  as  much  as  possible  during  the  heavi- 
er species  of  showers,  the  prospect  now  was  certainly 
neither  pleasant  nor  flattering.  Yet  there  was  Small, 
tightening  his  saddle-girths  and  arranging  his  wallet  of 
stores  with  as  much  unconcern  as  if  he  did  not  see  the 
threatening  deluge  that  was  hanging  over  us,  or  if  he 
did,  cared  nothing  for  it.  My  companions,  too,  appear- 
ed to  be  suddenly  taken  with  a  fit  of  haste,  and  hurried 
through  the  little  preliminary  preparations  as  though 
life  and  death  depended  upon  their  "  getting  off"  before 
the  rain  commenced  falling.  That  some  of  them  did  it 
for  effect  I  am  confident. 

"  You'll  be  mighty  apt  to  get  wet,"  said  a  thorough 
bred  Texan  who  stood  watching  our  movements  in 
front  of  Bullock's  Hotel. 


CROSSING   THE    COLORADO.  33 

"  Wet  to  the  skin  to  a  certainty,"  I  answered  aloud, 
with  the  hope  that  I  might  draw  Small's  attention  to 
the  threatening  heavens ;  but  he  never  once  looked  at 
the  cloud.  I  saw  that  he  was  determined  to  start ;  and 
as  I  should  only  be  making  a  laughing-stock  of  myself 
by  demurring,  I  assumed  an  indifference  I  was  far  from 
possessing,  and  pretended  to  care  as  little  for  the  im- 
pending flood  as  any  of  my  companions.  Before  my 
journeyings  were  half  through  I  got  bravely  over  my 
antipathy  to  thunder-showers,  and  took  them  as  coolly 
and  kindly  as  a  young  duck. 

The  Colorado,  which  we  were  compelled  to  cross 
immediately  on  leaving  the  city,  was  distant  some  half 
or  three  quarters  of  a  mile.  We  had  scarcely  mounted 
our  animals  before  the  rain  commenced  falling,  and  ere 
we  had  gone  two  hundred  yards  from  shelter  the  full 
weight  of  the  shower  was  upon  us.  It  may  have  rain- 
ed harder  before,  may  have  rained  harder  since — these 
are  questions  I  do  not  feel  called  upon  to  decide  ;  but 
this  much  I  will  say,  that  if  it  ever  has  I  did  not  happen 
to  be  out  at  the  time.  It  rained  as  though  every  win- 
dow in  heaven  was  thrown  wide  open,  and  a  perfect 
Niagara  of  water  was  falling  upon  us. 

By  the  time  we  reached  the  Colorado  I  was  drench- 
ed to  the  skin — as  wet  as  though  I  had  been  out  in  the 
forty  days'  deluge  without  greatcoat  or  umbrella.  We 
found  the  river  somewhat  swollen  by  the  previous  rains, 
and  the  current  running  unusually  fast ;  but  the  man 
Small,  who  appeared  to  have  adopted  the  motto  of 
"  go  ahead"  without  taking  Crockett's  precaution  of  first 
ascertaining  whether  he  was  right  or  wrong,  spurred  his 
animal  directly  into  the  stream.  Gramont  and  Frank 
Combs,  well  mounted  on  tall  and  spirited  horses,  did 
the  same,  and  made  the  crossing  without  swimming ; 


34  VENISON    FOR    SUPPER. 

Falconer  and  myself,  perched  upon  animals  of  smaller 
size  and  shorter  limbs,  were  not  equally  successful. 
We  were  obliged  to  swim  them  across ;  but  finally, 
after  not  a  little  floundering,  reached  the  opposite  bank 
in  safety. 

At  a  brisk  pace  we  rode  through  the  rich  and  fertile 
bottom  of  the  Colorado,  and  soon  reached  the  green  and 
rolling  prairies.  In  half  an  hour  the  rain  had  passed 
over,  but  the  sun  was  still  hidden  by  dark  and  heavy 
clouds  in  the  west.  When  within  two  miles-of  the 
place  where  we  were  to  encamp,  I  descried  a  deer 
some  distance  from  our  trail,  quietly  feeding.  As  there 
was  a  small  clump  of  bushes  near  the  animal,  affording 
a  good  cover  for  an  approach,  I  jumped  from  my  horse 
with  the  determination  of  having  a  little  fresh  venison 
for  supper  if  possible.  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  reach 
the  low  bushes  without  being  seen,  and  after  carefully 
peeping  through  them  for  a  few  moments  discovered 
the  deer,  with  head  erect  and  nostrils  distended,  gazing 
steadily  in  the  direction  of  my  cover.  Ever  and  anon 
he  would  give  the  well-known  blow  or  whistle,  showing 
plainly  that  he  scented  danger,  although  he  could  not 
see  it.  I  raised  my  rifle  suddenly  and  fired.  The 
smoke  hung  lazily  on  the  damp  atmosphere,  and  sev- 
eral seconds  elapsed  before  I  could  see  whether  I  had 
made  a  successful  shot.  I  had  been  told,  by  old  hunters, 
never  to  stir  from  my  tracks,  after  firing,  until  I  had  re- 
loaded, and  this  advice  I  now  followed.  On  approach- 
ing the  spot  where,  but  a  few  moments  before,  the  deer 
had  stood  so  full  of  life  and  activity,  I  found  him  lying 
stiff — the  heavy  ball  from  my  rifle  having  passed  di- 
rectly through  his  body.  Although  the  task  was  diffi- 
cult, I  succeeded  in  throwing  the  dead  animal  across 
my  horse's  back,  and  with  this  extra  load  rode  to  the 


STRANGE    CONDUCT    OF    SMALL.  35 

camp.  Small  gave  a  species  of  half-smothered,  chuck- 
ling laugh  as  I  threw  what  I  deemed  no  inconsiderable 
trophy  of  my  skill  to  the  ground,  I  noticed  the  smile, 
but  did  not,  at  the  time,  fully  understand  it. 

In  less  time  than  it  takes  me  to  record  it,  the  veteran 
hunter  had  cut  a  shoulder  and  some  of  the  more  deli- 
cate and  eatable  portions  from  the  deer,  and  then,  roll- 
ing the  remainder  and  larger  portion  out  of  the  way 
with  his  foot,  remarked  that  it  was  but  "  poor  doe."  I 
told  him  that  it  was  no  doe  at  all,  but  a  young  buck — I 
could  not  say  much  as  to  its  fatness.  He  gave  another 
half-laugh,  accompanied  by  a  slight  shrug  of  the  shoul- 
ders and  a  sarcastic  leer  out  of  the  corners  of  his  eyes, 
and  then  thrust  a  stick  through  the  pieces  of  meat  which 
he  still  held  in  his  hand.  Another  minute  passed,  and 
the  venison,  with  some  clumsily-cut  slices  of  ham  which 
Mr.  Falconer  had  providently  brought  with  him,  was 
cooking  before  a  large  fire  which  the  latter  gentleman 
had  kindled.  A  goodly-sized  pot  of  coffee  was  also 
quickly  boiling  upon  the  same  fire,  and  what  with  the 
scent  of  the  roasting  meat,  and  the  fragrance  of  the  old 
Java,  I  soon  was  the  possessor  of  an  appetite  a  city 
gourmand  might  envy.  Most  ample  justice  did  I  do  to 
it  in  the  way  of  eating,  after  the  meat  was  cooked  ;  and 
a  tm  cup  of  coffee,  sweetened,  it  is  true,  but  without 
milk,  I  then  thought  the  most  delicious  draught  I  had 
ever  tasted.  It  would  be  folly  to  deny  that  an  appetite, 
known  only  in  the  woods  and  on  the  prairies,  lent  a 
sauce  to  our  plain  repast  which  neither  wine  and  bit- 
ters, catsup,  nor  any  of  the  provocatives  and  seasonings 
usually  resorted  to,  could  have  given.  There  was  one 
thing,  however,  which  was  running  in  my  mind  all  the 
while,  and  which  I  could  not  understand — those  appa- 
rently half-contemptuous  and  ill-suppressed  laughs  of 


36  DAMP   LODGINGS. 

Small,  and  his  calling  young  buck  "  poor  doe  !"  I  grew 
wiser  before  I  had  been  a  month  upon  the  prairies,  and 
learned  the  full  meaning  of  conduct  which  I  then  thought 
sneering.  He  was  laughing,  in  the  first  place,  to  see 
me  pack  an  entire  deer  into  camp  when  our  utmost  ne- 
cessities were  more  than  supplied  by  less  than  a  quar- 
ter of  the  animal,  and  among  the  Texan  hunters  the 
term  "  poor  doe"  is  applied,  regardless  of  gender,  to  any 
deer  that  may  happen  to  be  lean.  Small,  no  doubt, 
thought  me  lamentably  ignorant  of  the  ways  of  that 
portion  of  the  wide  world  in  which  he  moved  with  so 
much  credit,  as  indeed  I  was  ;  and  what  was  still  worse 
for  me,  I  had  taken  his  honest  and  well-meant  smile  and 
accompanying  chuckle  for  tokens  of  derision  and  open 
effrontery. 

By  the  time  we  had  finished  our  meal  it  was  near 
dark,  and  a  dense  fog  was  rising  upon  the  little  creek, 
the  banks  of  which  we  had  chosen  for  our  camp.  My 
clothes  were  wet,  my  blankets  were  wet,  the  grass 
was  wet,  and  the  air  was  damp — a  prospect  by  no 
means  pleasant  to  one  who,  up  to  that  time,  had 
always  been  the  possessor  of  shelter  and  a  bed.  To 
complain,  however,  would  have  given  Small  another 
opportunity  to  indulge  in  one  of  his  quiet  chuckles  ;  so 
I  put  as  good  a  face  upon  the  matter  as  was  possible, 
spread  my  wet  blankets  upon  the  still  wetter  grass,  and 
after  rolling  myself  up.  resigned  myself,  as  well  as  I 
could,  to  the  circumstances.  My  friends,  all  of  whom 
had  some  little  experience  in  "  out-door"  life,  were 
huddled  around  me,  and  made  themselves  exceedingly 
merry  and  facetious  at  my  expense  ;  but  all  their  seem- 
ing indifference  to  the  damp  and  disagreeable  position 
we  were  placed  in  I  then  thought  assumed,  and  I  did 
not  believe  that  one  of  them  thought  of  obtaining  any 


PLAN  OP  TRAVEL  CHANGED.  37 

sleep.  For  myself,  I  would  have  freely  staked  no  in- 
considerable sum  that  not  the  most  skilful  professor  of 
animal  magnetism  who  has  ever  lived,  even  old  Mes- 
mer  himself,  could  have  got  a  single  wink  of  sleep  out  of 
me  that  night ;  but,  while  reflecting  upon  the  impossibil- 
ity of  the  thing,  I  absolutely  fell  into  a  sound  slumber, 
as  refreshing  as  though  I  had  been  upon  the  best  bed  in 
the  world.  Once  or  twice  in  the  night  I  was  awakened 
by  the  yelping  and  howling  of  a  pack  of  sneaking,  hun- 
gry wolves,  drawn  close  to  our  camp,  doubtless,  by  the 
scent  of  the  deer  1  had  killed.  Otherwise  my  sleep  was 
uninterrupted. 

Early  the  next  morning,  while  preparing  our  break- 
fast, Major  Howard  and  Mr.  George  Van  Ness,  who 
had  started  from  San  Antonio  the  preceding  day,  rode 
up  to  our  camp.  Van  Ness  I  had  formerly  known  in 
Vermont,  but  had  not  seen  him  for  several  years. 
These  gentlemen  were  on  their  way  to  Austin,  on  busi- 
ness requiring  much  expedition.  They  proposed  that 
we  should  go  no  farther  than  the  St.  Mark's  that  day, 
and  promised  that  they  would  meet  us  there  early  the 
next  morning,  and  go  with  us  to  San  Antonio.  Al- 
though we  had  intended  travelling  to  the  Guadalupe, 
a  river  some  distance  beyond  the  St.  Mark's,  we  now 
altered  our  plan  and  consented  to  their  proposal.  With- 
out stopping  to  partake  of  our  meal,  to  which  we  in- 
vited them,  they  gave  their  jaded  animals  the  spur,  and 
were  soon  lost  to  sight  beyond  a  roll  of  the  prairie. 
After  finishing  our  breakfast,  we  saddled  our  animals 
and  rode  slowly  towards  the  beautiful  St.  Mark's.  By 
two  o'clock  we  reached  a  deserted  military  station,  near 
the  head  springs  of  that  stream — the  rendezvous  ap- 
pointed by  our  friends  in  the  morning — and  there  en- 
camped for  the  night.  During  the  day,  Small  pointed 

VOL.  I.— D 


38  NIGHT   AT    THE   ST.  MARK*S. 

to  several  large  clouds  of  smoke  rising  at  some  distance 
ahead  of  us,  and  a  little  to  the  left  of  our  route,  remark- 
ing that  they  proceeded  from  Indian  fires ;  but  at  the 
time  we  thought  but  little  of  them. 

Than  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  St.  Mark's 
one  more  lovely  and  fertile  can  hardly  be  found.  The 
stream  rises  at  the  base  of  a  low  chain  of  mountains,  a 
short  distance  from  the  spot  on  which  we  were  encamp- 
ed. The  St.  Mark's  is  not  formed  by  a  series  of  small 
branches  or  creeks,  but  takes  its  rise  and  character  from 
its  fountain  head,  which  is  a  large  spring  of  clear,  cool, 
and  most  delicious  water,  inexhaustible  in  its  supply. 
But  a  few  hundred  yards  below  this  spring  we  find  a 
deep  and  swift-running  river,  stocked  with  a  variety  of 
fish.  The  bottoms  on  either  side  are  wide,  well-tim- 
bered, and  of  the  greatest  fertility,  admirably  adapted  to 
either  cotton  or  corn.  Once  clear  of  the  bottoms,  the 
traveller  meets  with  gently-undulating  prairies,  afford- 
ing nutritious  grass  for  pasturage,  and  a  good  depth  of 
soil  of  fair  quality.  The  climate  is  dry  and  salubrious, 
and  the  settler  finds  himself  occupying  lands  equally 
fertile,  yet  exempt  from  the  bilious  fevers  and  debilita- 
ting agues  so  prevalent  upon  the  Colorado,  the  Brazos, 
and  other  muddy  and  sluggish  rivers  of  Eastern  Tex- 
as. The  vicinity  of  the  Guadalupe,  another  swift  and 
clear  stream  which  we  passed  on  the  ensuing  day,  re- 
sembles that  of  the  St.  Mark's,  and  could  emigrants  but 
enjoy  facilities  for  getting  their  produce  to  market,  no 
finer  or  more  healthy  openings  exist  in  America. 

We  passed  the  night  at  the  St.  Mark's  with  no  inci- 
dent worthy  of  relation,  other  than  an  alarm  among  our 
animals,  which  were  hobbled  and  staked  close  by  our 
camp.  We  started  up  and  found  our  beasts  gazing, 
with  pricked  ears,  into  a  darkness  which  to  us  was  im- 


A   TEXAN  WAR    PARTY.  39 

penetrable.  Thinking  they  were  probably  frightened 
by  a  family  of  noisy  screech-owls,  perched  in  a  neigh- 
bouring tree,  or  else  by  a  more  distant  pack  of  howling 
wolves,  we  only  examined  their  fastenings  to  see  that 
all  were  secure,  and  retired  again  to  our  blankets. 
From  circumstances  that  transpired  afterward,  I  have 
little  doubt  that  Indians  were  prowling  about  our  camp, 
and  that  they  were  either  seen  or  scented  by  our  beasts. 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  horses  or  mules  of  a 
white  man  are  invariably  terrified  at  the  approach  of 
Indians,  can  scent  them  at  a  most  astonishing  distance, 
and,  from  the  circumstance  that  they  always  give  the 
alarm,  are  considered  excellent  sentinels. 

At  daybreak  Howard  and  Van  Ness,  now  accom- 
panied by  Colonel  W.  G.  Cooke,  made  their  appear- 
ance. They  had  started  from  Austin  at  nightfall,  and 
as  the  distance  to  the  St.  Mark's  was  some  forty  miles, 
had  had  a  hard  night's  ride.  The  only  rest  they  made 
was  while  we  prepared  a  hasty  breakfast ;  when  this 
was  over  we  saddled  our  animals  and  pursued  our  jour- 
ney. The  distance  to  San  Antonio  was  still  forty  miles — 
not  a  severe  day's  ride  for  fresh  and  good  horses — but 
as  some  of  those  in  our  company  were  but  indifferent 
nags  at  best,  and  much  travel-worn,  the  march  proved 
extremely  slowr  and  fatiguing. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  before  Colo- 
nel Cooke,  thinking  we  had  lost  the  shortest  trail  to  San 
Antonio,  separated  from  our  party  and  struck  off  across 
the  prairies  to  the  left  at  a  brisk  canter.  He  was  hardly 
out  of  sight  before  we  saw,  rapidly  approaching  us,  at 
a  distance  of  some  mile  or  mile  and  a  half,  a  body  of 
about  sixty  horsemen,  whose  character  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  distinguish.  Apprehensive  at  first  that  they 
might  be  Indians,  we  drew  up  in  a  body,  with  a  small 


40  TEXAN   KILLED  BY    INDIANS. 

mot*  of  timber  close  by  to  which  we  could  easily  re- 
treat, and  awaited  their  approach.  It  proved  to  be  a 
party  of  Texans  that  had  been  out  some  four  months  on 
an  expedition  against  the  Camanches.  So  long  had  they 
been  absent  from  the  settlements  that  they  really  bore 
the  strongest  resemblance  to  Indians.  Their  hunting- 
shirts  had  become  torn  and  greasy,  their  hair  long  and 
matted,  and  their  faces,  from  long  exposure  to  the  sun 
and  only  an  occasional  acquaintanceship  with  water, 
imbrowned  nearly  to  the  color  of  mahogany.  They, 
too,  had  at  first  mistaken  us  for  Indians,  and  under  this 
belief  had  approached  at  no  inconsiderable  speed  :  but 
on  nearing  us  they  discovered  their  mistake,  and  slack- 
ened their  gait  to  one  more  in  consonance  with  the  feel- 
ings of  their  jaded  animals. 

Almost  the  first  question  asked  by  the  leader  of  the 
party  was,  whether  we  had  encountered  Indians.  On 
being  answered  in  the  negative,  he  stated  that  two  of 
his  comrades  had  started  in  advance,  the  afternoon  be- 
fore, for  the  purpose  of  hunting ;  that  one  of  them,  a  man 
named  Moore,  had  been  killed  and  scalped  by  Indians ; 
that  his  companion,  Hunter,  had  also  been  wounded  by 
the  same  gang,  yet  was  enabled  to  make  his  escape,  and 
was  then  safe  among  his  men.  His  arm  was  broken 
by  a  ball,  and  on  his  name  being  mentioned  he  rode 
up  to  the  advance  with  his  wounded  limb  in  a  sling. 
Hunter  gave  us  a  description  of  the  spot  where  he  and 
his  companion  had  been  waylaid,  and  thought  it  singular, 
as  we  had  passed  directly  along  the  trail,  that  we  had 
not  discovered  the  mutilated  body  of  the  latter.  His 
own  horse  was  untouched  by  the  volley  fired  by  the 
savages,  and  being  a  strong,  fleet  animal,  brought  his 
master  off  in  safety.  He  described  the  Indians  as  being 

*  In  Western  Texas  a  small  clump  of  timber  is  called  a  mot. 


FALCONERS    PICTURE.  41 

on  foot,  armed  principally  with  guns  and  rifles,  and  num- 
bering about  seventy.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  short 
interview,  the  Texans  hurried  off  in  the  direction  of  the 
St.  Mark's,  to  find  and  bury  their  unfortunate  comrade, 
while  we  continuec.  our  journey  towards  San  Antonio. 
That  we  had  made  a  most  fortunate  escape  the  day  be- 
fore, by  halting  at  the  St.  Mark's,  was  now  evident 
enough.  Had  we  kept  directly  on  we  should,  in  all 
probability,  have  fallen  into  an  ambuscade  and  been  cut 
to  pieces.  It  was  now  also  rendered  evident  that  the 
alarm  among  our  animals,  the  previous  night,  was  oc- 
casioned by  Indians,  and  Mat  Small's  remark,  that  the 
smoke  we  had  seen  in  the  afternoon  arose  from  the  sig- 
nal-fires of  a  party  of  hostile  savages,  received  direct 
confirmation. 

But  we  had  other  matters  than  the  past  to  speculate 
upon.  Our  little  party  was  now  seven  strong,  all  well 
armed  if  not  well  mounted,  and  we  doubted  not  being 
able  to  give  a  good  account  of  ourselves  should  the  In- 
dians attack  us.  All  that  was  necessary  was  to  keep  a 
bright  look-out,  and  not  fall  into  an  ambuscade  while 
passing  the  different  mots  and  ravines  scattered  along 
our  trail.  But  where  was  Colonel  Cooke  all  this  while  ? 
He  was  ahead,  perfectly  unconscious  of  the  close  prox- 
imity of  Indians,  and  might  be  cut  off  and  killed  without 
our  knowledge,  or  without  our  being  able  to  render  him 
the  least  assistance.  This  reflection  caused  us  great 
uneasiness,  and  induced  us  to  push  forward  with  the 
hope  of  overtaking  him. 

Up  to  this  time  I  have  neglected  to  draw  my  friend 
Falconer's  picture  as  he  sat  for  it  that  day  upon  his  mule. 
Hogarth  might  have  done  it  justice  ;  I  shall  only  pre- 
tend to  give  a  rough  outline.  Although  belonging  to 
and  reared  in  an  excellent  family,  and  accustomed  to 

D2 


42  WAYWARDNESS    OF   A   MULE. 

all  the  comforts  of  the  polished  life  he  had  but  recently 
left,  he  easily  assimilated  himself  to  the  hardships  and 
privations  incident  to  a  wild  border  life.  The  luxuries 
and  good  things  of  an  English  fireside  he  appeared  en- 
tirely to  have  forgotten — the  plain  and  simple  substan- 
tials  of  a  prairie  alone  occupied  his  attention.  While 
at  Austin  he  had  elected  himself  our  commissary,  stew- 
ard, cook — in  fact,  our  purveyor-general — had  provided 
a  tea-kettle  and  coffee-pot  for  the  general  use,  besides  a 
tin  cup  for  each  man's  private  accommodation.  With 
an  eye  to  the  general  welfare  he  had  also  purchased  a 
ham  of  goodly  dimensions,  besides  coffee,  sugar,  tea, 
salt,  and  red  pepper.  Mrs.  Bullock,  the  kind  and  atten- 
tive landlady  of  the  best  hotel  at  Austin,  had  added 
something  like  a  bushel  of  fresh-baked  biscuit  to  our  oth- 
er stock,  so  that  we  were  most  amply  provided  for. 
For  all  these  nic-nacs  Mr.  Falconer  had  kindly  furnish- 
ed transportation  on  his  mule,  a  rickety,  lame,  self- 
willed,  long-eared  brute,  of  stature  not  exceeding  eleven 
hands.  If  we  can  judge  of  a  mule's  obstinacy  by  the 
length  of  its  ears,  the  animal  in  question  was  certainly 
endowed  with  a  portion  far  exceeding  that  of  any  other 
of  the  species  it  has  ever  been  my  good  or  bad  fortune 
to  meet.  And  then,  as  I  have  before  stated,  she  was 
lame  of  one  leg,  and  had  naturally  a  mincing,  shuffling, 
hobbling  gait  with  the  other  three.  In  addition  to  all 
this,  the  mule  had  a  way  of  stumbling  and  tumbling 
down  peculiarly  her  own — a  habit  which  she  indulged 
in  to  an  excess  absolutely  inconvenient,  besides  being 
at  times  somewhat  dangerous.  To  offset  all  these  rare 
qualities,  she  was  as  hardy  as  a  grizzly  bear  and  as  tough 
and  untiring  as  a  hound.  The  latter  quality  might  not 
have  been  constitutional,  but  rather  the  result  of  the 
rigid  system  of  economy  she  displayed  in  the  disburse- 


AN    OMNIUM-GATHERUM.  43 

ment  of  her  strength  and  speed,  regardless  alike  of 
blows,  spurs,  cuffs,  and  whacks.  This  is  a  very  nice 
point,  and  one  upon  which  I  dare  not  hazard  a  decision. 
She  is  now  dead,  poor  thing,  and  some  two  months  af- 
ter the  events  I  have  just  recorded  made  a  meal  for 
many  a  half-starved  man  ;  but  even  at  this  time  I  can- 
not help  laughing  at  her  eccentricities. 

Now,  upon  the  back  of  this  animal  I  have  been  de- 
scribing, on  the  morning  in  question,  was  perched  my 
friend  Falconer.  He  was  arrayed  in  a  costume  some- 
what resembling  a  New-England  washing-day  dinner, 
inasmuch  as  it  was  picked  up  here  and  there.  I  have 
before  stated  that  Mr.  F.  had  kindly  offered  to  give 
transportation  to  our  commissariat,  and  this  offer  he  ful- 
filled. We  now  have  him  seated  upon  his  mule,  with  a 
double-barrelled  smooth  bore  upon  his  shoulder,  while 
around  and  underneath  him,  tied  on  and  hanging  in 
festoons,  was  a  general  assortment  of  a  little  of  every- 
thing. There  were  a  ham,  a  tea-kettle,  a  wallet  of  bis- 
cuit, half  a  dozen  tin  cups,  a  gourd,  a  pair  of  pistols,  and 
a  coffee-pot,  all  occupying  prominent  situations  imme- 
diately around  him.  In  addition,  Falconer  had  with  him 
a  number  of  books  and  scientific  instruments,  and  these 
were  arranged,  here  and  there,  among  the  hardware 
and  groceries.  Thus  arrayed  and  mounted  he  really 
seemed  more  like  a  gipsy  or  a  travelling  tinker  than  a 
member  of  the  best  society  in  London  and  a  distinguish- 
ed barrister  of  that  city. 

We  had  proceeded  some  five  miles,  scattered  Indian 
file  along  the  trail,  and  were  growing  more  and  more 
solicitous  in  relation  to  Colonel  Cooke,  when  the  sharp 
report  of  a  rifle  was  heard  some  hundred  yards  ahead, 
in  a  narrow  skirting  of  timber  which  fringed  the  banks 
of  a  small  stream.  Van  Ness,  who  was  in  advance, 


44  A   DOWNFALL. 

and  had  reached  the  edge  of  the  timber,  immediately 
reined  up  his  horse  and  drew  a  pistol  from  his  holsters. 
Major  Howard  was  jogging  along  next  to  Van  Ness, 
but  at  least  forty  yards  behind  him,  Falconer  was  close 
to  Major  Howard,  while  myself  and  companions  brought 
up  the  rear.  The  first  impression  with  all,  on  hearing 
the  report  of  the  rifle,  was  that  the  Indians  had  formed 
an  ambuscade  for  the  purpose  of  cutting  us  off. 

"  Indians  !"  shouted  Major  Howard,  drawing  one  of 
Colt's  revolving  pistols  and  then  putting  spurs  to  his 
steed  and  making  for  the  thicket. 

"  Where  ?"  said  Mr.  Falconer,  drumming  his  spurless 
heels  into  his  mule's  sides,  and  evincing  a  zeal  truly 
laudable  to  be  one  of  the  first  in  the  brush  that  all  felt 
confident  was  about  to  take  place. 

Frank  Combs,  who  was  well  mounted,  came  dashing 
by  at  the  top  of  his  horse's  speed.  This  induced  Fal- 
coner to  redouble  his  kicks  and  exertions  to  force  his 
mule  along,  and  he  had  really  induced  the  animal  to 
make  some  show  towrards  a  species  of  Canterbury  gal- 
lop as  I  came  up  with  him.  Just  as  I  had  reached  him, 
and  was  about  to  pass,  down  went  my  unfortunate 
friend's  entire  establishment,  strewing  the  road,  for  some 
ten  feet,  with  mule,  Falconer,  and  sundries.  Although 
in  what  a  Kentuckian  would  call  "  all  sorts  of  a  hurry," 
I  could  not  help  stopping  for  a  moment  to  survey  the 
scene  and  ascertain  whether  my  companion  had  injured 
himself.  There,  side  and  side,  reposed  a  volume  of 
Lord  Bacon  and  a  Kentucky  ham — there  too  were  a 
thermometer  and  a  teakettle — tin  cups,  biscuits,  fishing- 
tackle,  a  barometer,  wallets,  pistols,  knives — scattered 
about  in  enviable  confusion.  I  can  only  liken  the  scene 
to  the  promiscuous  and  miscellaneous  appearance  of 
the  furniture  of  a  house,  saved  from  a  fire  and  thrown 


MEXICAN    DOGS.  45 

helter-skelter  in  the  street.  At  any  other  time,- after 
finding  that  my  companion  had  sustained  but  little  per- 
sonal injury,  I  should  have  laughed  outright  at  the  lu- 
dicrous tumble ;  as  it  was  I  could  not  restrain  a  smile 
as  Falconer  hurriedly  scrambled  upon  his  feet.  By  this 
time  the  secret  of  the  rifle-shot  was  fully  explained  by 
the  appearance  of  Colonel  Cooke  from  the  timber.  It 
seems  that  he  had  become  lost  in  endeavouring  to  find 
a  shorter  trail,  and  discharged  his  rifle  as  the  only 
method  of  making  his  whereabout  known. 

Having  assisted  the  fallen  Falconer  in  repacking  and 
remounting  his  mule,  we  renewed  our  ride.  At  noon 
we  reached  the  Guadalupe,  without  having  met  with 
any  farther  incident.  Here  we  rested  an  hour  or  two 
under  some  shade  trees,  while  our  animals  were  feed- 
ing and  fighting  prairie-flies  close  by.  Towards  sun- 
down we  arrived  at  the  Salado,  a  stream  which  sinks 
in  the  sand  and  rises  again  some  distance  below  the 
regular  crossing-place  between  Austin  and  San  Anto- 
nio. It  was  on  the  banks  of  this  river  that  Captain 
Caldwell,  with  a  small  number  of  Texans,  defeated  the 
army  of  General  Woll  in  1842.  After  allowing  our 
animals  an  hour's  rest,  we  resumed  our  tiresome  jour- 
ney, and  about  eleven  o'clock  passed  the  old  and  ruin- 
ed Alamo  and  entered  the  outskirts  of  San  Antonio. 
From  every  house  some  half  dozen  Mexican  curs  would 
jump  forth  and  greet  us  with  a  chorus  of  yelps  and 
barks,  and  before  we  had  fairly  entered  the  town  the 
canine  hue  and  cry  was  general.  Those  who  have 
for  the  first  time  entered  a  Mexican  town  or  city  must 
have  been  struck  with  the  unusual  number  of  dogs,  and 
annoyed  by  their  incessant  barking ;  but  the  stranger 
soon  learns  that  they  vent  all  their  courage  in  barks — 
thev  seldom  bite. 


46  FUN    IN    A    FANDANGO. 

It  "was  nearly  midnight  before  I  could  find  a  resting- 
place  for  myself  and  horse.  Late  as  it  was,  the  sound 
of  a  violin  drew  me  across  the  plaza,  or  principal 
square,  and  up  one  of  the  narrow  streets  leading  to  it. 
Poor  Power,  in  one  of  his  plays,  used  to  say  that 
"  wherever  you  hear  a  fiddle  you  are  pretty  sure  to 
find  fun ;"  in  the  present  instance  I  found  a  fandango. 
As  I  entered  the  room,  which  was  destitute  of  other 
floor  than  the  hard  earth,  and  lighted  by  two  or  three 
coarse  tallow  candles,  a  single  couple  were  shuffling 
away,  face  to  face,  and  keeping  time  to  a  cracked  vio- 
lin. Ever  and  anon  the  woman  would  sing  a  verse  in 
Spanish,  both  herself  and  male  partner  standing  until  its 
completion.  Then  they  would  shuffle  away  again,  using 
a  species  of  break-down,  negro  step,  entirely  devoid  of 
grace  and  ease.  Another  verse  and  then  another  shuf- 
fle, and  the  dance  was  over.  The  woman  was  as  des- 
titute of  beauty  as  an  Egyptian  mummy — in  fact,  if 
dried,  would  have  made  a  very  good  counterfeit  of  one 
of  those  curiosities ;  her  partner  was  even  more  ugly. 
Some  half  dozen  slovenly,  badly-dressed  Mexican  girls 
were  sitting  upon  benches  at  either  end  of  the  room, 
while  an  old  woman  in  one  corner  was  selling  paper 
cigars  and  vile  whiskey.*  I  passed  through  an  open 
door,  leading  into  a  back  room,  where  were  a  small 
party  of  men  and  women  betting  at  monte.  I  lost  a 
couple  of  dollars  "  just  to  get  the  hang  of  the  game,"  as 
the  facetious  Sam  Slick  would  say,  and  then  retired  to 
my  lodgings.  Here  I  had  no  other  bed  than  my  own 
blankets  and  the  hard  earth  floor ;  if  anything  can  be 
harder  than  such  a  couch  I  have  yet  to  find  it,  and  my 

*  This  was  but  a  fandango  of  the  lowest  order.  The  reader  must  not  sup- 
pose that  there  is  no  better  society  among  the  Mexicans  of  San  Antonio  than 
I  found  at  this  place. 


THOUGHTS    ON    FLOORS.  47 

experience  has  been  rather  extensive.  A  plank  really 
seems  to  have  a  "  soft  side,"  and  those  who  have  tried 
both,  as  I  have,  will  say  that  there  is  a  species  of  "  give," 
if  I  may  be  allowed  the  expression,  to  a  stone  floor  ;  but 
a  Mexican,  hard-trodden,  earth  floor  has  a  dead  solidity 
about  it  which  fairly  makes  the  tired  bones  ache  again. 
The  experience  of  the  few  past  days  now  came  like  an 
unpleasant  panorama  across  my  mind,  and  I  began  to 
reflect  that  I  had  a  rough  life  in  perspective ;  but  as 
every  one  said  "  it  was  nothing  after  getting  used  to  it," 
I  resolved  to  "  go  ahead." 


CHAPTER  III. 

Description  of  San  Antonio. — Fondness  of  the  Women  for  Bathing. — Cli- 
mate.— Irrigating  Canals. — Fruits. — The  old  Spanish  Missions. — Objects 
for  which  they  were  constructed. — The  Alamo. — Concepcion. — San  Juan. 
— San  Jose. — La  Espada. — Bowie  and  Crockett. — Church  of  San  Antonio. 
• — Anecdote  of  General  Cos. — Mexican  Merchants  from  the  Rio  Grande. — 
Return  to  Austin. — Incidents  upon  the  Road. — A  Texan  Leather  Stocking. 
— An  Adventure. — Out-tricking  a  Party  of  Indians. — Another  Night  at  the 
St.  Mark's. — Fruitless  Chase  after  Camanches. — Hog-wallow  Prairie. — Ar- 
rival at  Camp. — More  of  the  Camanches. — Plain  Supper  and  good  Appe- 
tite.— Insight  into  Astronomy. — Once  more  at  Austin. — A  Fall  in  the 
Dark. — Speculations  while  falling. — Broken  Bones. — Dancing  Days  over, 
or  the  "  Jig  up." — Consolation  under  Misfortune. 

BY  far  the  most  pleasant  as  well  as  interesting  town 
in  Texas  is  San  Antonio,  or  Bexar  as  it  is  frequently 
called  by  the  inhabitants.  The  San  Antonio  River, 
which  heads  a  short  distance  above  the  town,  meanders 
through  its  streets,  and  its  limpid  waters,  by  the  differ- 
ent turns  it  makes  and  the  irrigating  canals,  are  brought 
within  a  convenient  distance  of  every  door.  The  tem- 
perature of  the  water  is  nearly  the  same  all  the  year 


48  SAN    ANTONIO. 

through — neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold  for  bathing — and 
it  is  seldom  that  a  day  passes  in  which  all  the  inhabi- 
tants do  not  enjoy  the  healthy  and  invigorating  luxury 
of  swimming.  I  say  all — for  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren can  be  seen  at  any  time  in  the  river,  splashing, 
diving,  and  paddling  about  like  so  many  Sandwich 
Islanders.  The  women  in  particular  are  celebrated  for 
their  fondness  for  bathing,  and  are  excellent  swimmers. 

The  climate  of  San  Antonio  is  pure,  dry,  and  healthy ; 
so  much  so,  that  the  old  but  rather  hyperbolical  saying, 
"  If  a  man  wants  to  die  there  he  must  go  somewhere 
else,"  appears  specially  to  apply  to  the  place.  During 
the  summer  months,  a  cool  and  delicious  breeze  is  al- 
most continually  blowing,  bringing  health  and  comfort. 
But  little  rain  falls ;  and  to  supply  this  defect  the  rich 
and  fertile  bottoms  of  the  river  are  intersected  in  al- 
most every  direction  by  irrigating  ditches,  which  carry 
the  limpid  waters  in  every  direction.  Whenever  the 
ground  requires  a  moistening,  the  water  from  the  canals 
is  let  over  it  at  once  ;  so  that  even  should  the  summer 
pass  without  a  drop  of  rain,  the  crop  is  invariably  abun- 
dant. Peaches  and  melons  arrive  at  great  perfection,  and 
I  have  little  doubt  that  many  other  species  of  fruit  could 
be  cultivated  with  success.  The  prairies  in  the  vicinity 
afford  the  finest  pastures  for  cattle  and  horses  to  be 
found  in  the  wide  world,  and  so  mild  is  the  climate  that 
they  thrive  at  all  seasons. 

By  far  the  greatest  curiosities  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  San  Antonio  are  the  missions.  Before  I  describe 
these  immense  establishments  it  is  necessary  to  observe 
that  early  after  the  conquest  of  Mexico  a  main  object 
of  the  Spaniards'  policy  was  to  extend  the  authority  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  Church.  The  conversion  of  the 
Indian  and  the  promulgation  of  Christianity  were  as 


SPANISH    MISSIONS.  49 

eagerly  sought  by  them  as  the  gold  and  silver  which 
first  lured  them  to  the  Western  World  ;  and  this  mission- 
ary zeal  produced  some  of  the  most  remarkable  inci- 
dents in  the  history  of  the  country.  The  new  doctrines 
were  first  inculcated  by  force  and  cruelty,  but  subse- 
quently in  a  more  humane  temper,  by  allowing  the  su- 
perstitions of  the  Indian  to  mingle  with  the  rites  intro- 
duced among  them;  and  to  this  day,  the  anomalous 
consequences  of  this  policy  are  to  be  seen  in  the  Indian 
ceremonies,  some  of  which  I  will  describe  when  I  shall 
hereafter  speak  of  our  journey  through  the  Mexican 
country.  For  the  purpose,  however,  of  affording  pro- 
tection to  the  Roman  Catholic  missionaries,  there  were 
established,  at  various  times,  settlements  which  still  bear 
the  name  of  Missions.  They  are  very  numerous  through- 
out California,  and  in  Texas  there  are  several.  The 
Alamo,  at  San  Antonio,  was  one  of  much  importance, 
and  there  were  others,  hardly  of  less  consideration,  in 
the  neighbourhood,  called  the  Missions  of  Concepcion,  of 
San  Juan,  San  Jose,  and  La  Espada.  They  were  all 
most  substantially  built ;  the  walls  are  of  great  thick- 
ness ;  and  in  their  form  and  arrangement  they  were 
frontier  fortresses.  They  have  generally,  though  not 
always,  a  church  at  the  side  of  a  square  having  one  en- 
trance. Seen  from  without,  they  present  the  form  of  a 
blank  wall  surrounding  a  square  enclosure ;  within  is  a 
large  granary,  and  the  wall  forms  the  back  of  a  series  of 
dwellings  in  which  the  missionaries  and  their  converts 
lived.  There  was  a  large  appropriation  of  the  sur- 
rounding district  for  the  support  of  the  mission,  through 
which  small  canals  were  made  for  the  purpose  of  irri- 
gation. Such,  at  least,  is  the  case  with  the  missions 
which  I  have  mentioned.  The  Alamo  is  now  in  ruins, 
only  two  or  three  of  the  houses  being  inhabited.  The 
VOL.  I.— E 


50  THE    ALAMO. 

gateway  of  the  church  was  much  ornamented,  and  still 
remains,  though  deprived  of  the  figures  which  once  oc- 
cupied its  niches.  But  there  is  enough  still  to  interest 
the  investigator  of  its  former  history,  even  if  he  could 
for  a  moment  forget  the  scenes  which  have  made  it 
celebrated  in  the  history  of  Texan  independence.  The 
exact  spot  where  the  eccentric  but  brave  Crockett  fell, 
surrounded  by  a  ring  of  Mexicans  whom  he  had  killed, 
is  shown,  as  also  the  quarter  where  the  heroic  Bowie 
breathed  his  last.  About  two  miles  lower  down  the 
San  Antonio  River  is  the  Mission  of  Concepcion.  It  is 
a  very  large  stone  building,  with  a  fine  cupola,  and, 
though  plain,  magnificent  in  its  dimensions  and  the 
durability  of  its  construction.  It  was  here  that  Bowie 
fought  one  of  the  first  battles  with  the  Mexican  forces, 
and  it  has  not  since  been  inhabited.  Though  not  so 
well  known  to  fame  as  other  conflicts,  this  fight  was 
that  which  really  committed  the  Texans,  and  compelled 
those  who  thought  of  terms  and  the  maintenance  of  a 
Mexican  connexion  to  see  that  the  time  for  both  had 
passed.  The  Mission  of  San  Jose  is  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  down  the  river.  It  consists,  also,  of  a  large 
square,  and  numerous  Mexican  families  still  make  it 
their  residence.  To  the  left  of  the  gateway  is  the  gran- 
ary. The  church  stands  apart  from  the  other  buildings, 
in  the  square,  but  not  in  the  centre  ;  the  west  door  is 
surrounded  with  most  elaborate  stone  carving  of  flow- 
ers, angels,  and  apostles.  The  interior  is  plain.  To  the 
right  is  a  handsome  belfry  tower,  and  above  the  altar  a 
large  stone  cupola.  Behind  the  church,  and  in  connex- 
ion with  it,  is  a  long  range  of  rooms  for  the  mission- 
aries, opening  upon  a  covered  gallery  or  portaks  of 
nine  arches.  Though  the  Texan  troops  were  long 
quartered  here,  the  stone  carvings  have  not  been  iiir 


DISLODGING    A   GENERAL.  5J 

jured.  The  church  has  been  repaired,  and  Divine  ser- 
vice is  performed  in  it.  About  half  a  mile  farther  dowi? 
is  the  Mission  of  San  Juan.  The  church  forms  part  of 
the  side  of  the  square  ;  it  is  a  plain,  simple  edifice,  with 
little  ornament.  The  adjacent  buildings  are  poor  and 
out  of  repair.  The  granary  stands  alone  in  the  square, 
and  on  the  northwest  corner  are  the  remains  of  a  small 
stone  tower.  The  other  mission,  that  of  La  Espada,  is 
also  inhabited,  as  well  as  the  last.  The  church,  how- 
ever, is  in  ruins.  Two  sides  of  the  square  consist  of 
mere  walls  ;  the  other  sides  are  composed  of  dwellings 
as  in  the  other  instances. 

The  church  at  San  Antonio  was  built  in  the  year 
1717 ;  and  although  it  has  suffered  much  from  the  rav- 
ages of  time  and  the  different  sieges  which  the  city  has 
undergone,  is  still  used  as  a  place  of  public  worship. 
When  San  Antonio  was  attacked  and  taken  by  Colonels 
Cooke  and  Milam,  in  1835,  General  Cos  made  the  bel- 
fry of  this  church  his  headquarters.  A  well-directed 
cannon-shot  from  the  Texans  struck  just  above  his  head, 
inducing  him  to  evacuate  the  place  with  his  staff*  im- 
mediately. The  hole  made  by  the  ball  is  still  visible, 
and,  in  fact,  all  the  houses  in  the  principal  square  of 
the  town  are  marked  more  or  less  by  shot. 

San  Antonio  is  laid  out  and  built  with  some  little  reg- 
ularity. The  houses  are  all  of  one  story  only,  with  few 
windows  and  thick  walls.  The  town  probably  contain- 
ed, at  one  time,  a  population  of  some  twelve  or  fifteen 
thousand  ;  but  the  different  revolutions,  the  many  bloody 
battles  which  have  been  fought  within  its  walls,  and  the 
unsettled  state  of  the  frontiers,  have  combined  to  lessen 
this  number  materially.  It  is  still,  however,  a  place  of 
no  inconsiderable  trade,  and  should  peace  be  concluded 
with  Mexico,  will  regain  its  former  standing.  While  I 


52  AN    ORIGINAL. 

was  there  a  company  of  Mexican  merchants  from  the 
other  side  of  the  Rio  Grande  arrived,  who  were  allow- 
ed to  trade  and  depart  in  peace ;  and  had  the  expedi- 
tion to  Santa  Fe  been  given  up,  as  was  at  one  time  an- 
ticipated, I  should  have  joined  one  of  these  companies 
and  entered  Mexico  by  way  of  Loredo. 

After  spending  some  six  or  eight  days  very  agree- 
ably at  San  Antonio,  I  set  out  on  my  return  to  Austin. 
Two  days  before  I  left,  a  number  of  wagons,  loaded 
with  goods  by  the  merchants  of  San  Antonio  and  des- 
tined for  the  Santa  Fe  market,  left  the  former  place ; 
these  we  overtook  at  the  Guadalupe,  and  thence  jour- 
neyed towards  Austin  in  company. 

While  "  nooning"  on  our  third  day's  march  from  San 
Antonio,  or  in  plain  terms,  while  stopping  a  couple  of 
hours  in  the  heat  of  the  day  to  rest,  I  set  off,  in  com- 
pany with  an  original  named  Tom  Hancock,  in  the 
hope  of  being  able  to  kill  a  deer.  This  fellow  Hancock 
was  a  perfect  "  character,"  as  much  so  as  the  celebra- 
ted Leather  Stocking  of  Cooper's  novels.  In  person  he 
was  spare  and  gaunt,  with  a  loose,  shambling  carriage 
of  body  that  ill  betokened  the  firm-set  muscles  and  iron 
powers  of  endurance  he  really  possessed.  When  stand- 
ing erect,  his  height  may  have  been  five  feet  seven  or 
eight  inches ;  but  he  had  a  lazy,  listless  stoop,  which 
shortened  his  stature  two  or  three  inches  and  gave  him 
the  appearance  of  being  misshapen  and  round-shoulder- 
ed. His  limbs  were  anything  but  symmetrical,  and 
seemed  to  hang  dangling  about  him — this  on  ordinary 
occasions  ;  but  when  the  muscles  were  nerved,  and  the 
body  straightened  in  the  excitement  of  adventure,  it 
was  then  that  Tom  appeared  in  his  true  light,  a  wiry, 
knotted  imbodiment  of  action,  power  and  determina- 
tion. 


THE   PRAIRIE   RANGER.  53 

Decidedly  the  best  point  about  him  was  his  eye,  a 
small  twinkling  orb,  of  no  definable  colour,  but  which 
never  allowed  any  object  within  the  farthest  reach  of 
human  vision  to  pass  unnoticed.  And  yet,  one  might 
journey  with  him  for  days,  might  be  in  his  company 
even  for  weeks,  and  never  suppose  that  he  was  looking 
at  or  for  anything.  But  not  a  footprint,  not  a  trail,  es- 
caped the  notice  of  that  quiet-rolling  eye — Tom  could 
tell  you  the  animal  that  made  it,  the  direction  in  which 
it  was  going,  and  the  time  that  had  elapsed  since  it  was 
impressed  upon  the  surface  of  the  prairie. 

In  every  species  of  backwoods,  border,  and  prairie 
strategy  Hancock  had  his  gifts,  and  they  were  such  as 
have  been  vouchsafed  to  but  few.  An  Indian  he  could 
circumvent  and  outmanoeuvre  at  his  own  games,  and  at 
killing  every  kind  of  animal  known  in  the  woods  or  on 
the  prairies,  at  fishing,  or  at  "  lining"  bees,  the  oldest 
and  best  hunters  acknowledged  Tom's  supremacy.  He 
could  lie  closer  to  the  ground,  creep  farther,  expose 
less  of  his  person  and  get  nearer  a  deer,  bear,  buffalo 
or  enemy's  camp,  than  any  other  man,  and  these  quali- 
ties made  him  invaluable  not  only  as  a  mere  provider 
of  meat  for  a  camp,  but  as  a  spy.  He  had  been  in  frays 
innumerable  with  the  Mexicans,  as  well  as  Indians,  and 
invariably  performed  some  exploit  that  would  furnish 
his  companions  with  a  topic  for  conversation.  He  had 
been  a  prisoner  among  the  Camanches,  but  had  got 
away  from  them — in  short,  had  made  hair-breadth 
'scapes  innumerable.  Yet  he  never,  on  any  occasion, 
boasted  of  his  feats — never  even  adverted  to  them. 
Such  is  a  rough  and  imperfect  picture  of  Tom  Han- 
cock— of  one  nurtured  amid  the  solitudes  of  the  woods 
and  prairies — whose  days  had  been  spent  in  the  excite- 
ments and  dangers  of  the  chase  or  of  Indian  frays,  and 
E2 


64  A    HUNTING    ADVENTURE. 

whose  nights  had  passed  amid  serenades  of  prairie 
wolves  and  owls.  He  had  been  hired  at  San  Antonio 
by  Mr.  Falconer — not  as  his  servant,  for  Tom  would 
scorn  being  the  washer  of  dishes  or  brusher  of  clothes 
for  any  man — but  simply  to  accompany  the  Santa  Fe 
Expedition.  His  obligations  to  Mr.  F.  extended  this 
far — he  was  to  find  him  if  lost,  and  to  keep  him  in  pro- 
vision should  other  supplies  fail.  Such  was  the  singu- 
lar contract. 

Tom's  ordinary  weapon,  and  the  one  upon  which  he 
most  "  prided"  himself,  was  a  long,  heavy,  flint-lock  rifle, 
of  plain  and  oldfashioned  workmanship,  for  he  could 
not  be  made  to  believe  in  percussion  caps  and  other 
modern  improvements.  In  the  adventure  I  am  about 
to  describe  he  was  armed  with  one  of  Colt's  repeating 
rifles,  which  he  had  borrowed,  his  own  being  out  of  or- 
der. The  spot  where  we  had  stopped  to  pass  the  heat 
of  the  day  was  a  little  prairie  on  the  eastern  side  of  a 
small  branch,  the  borders  of  which  were  skirted  by  a 
narrow  fringe  of  timber,  running  nearly  north  and  south, 
and  ranging  in  width  from  one  hundred  yards  to  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile.  Tom  and  myself  skirted  along  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  trees  until  we  had  travelled  nearly  a 
mile,  without  seeing  a  living  thing  save  two  or  three 
large  prairie  rabbits,  which  would  suddenly  jump  up 
and  leap  off  as  we  approached. 

Thinking  we  might  meet  with  deer  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  timber,  Tom  noiselessly  led  the  way  through 
while  I  followed  closely  upon  his  heels.  We  put  up 
two  or  three  turkeys  near  the  branch,  but  the  underbrush 
was  so  thick  it  was  impossible  to  get  a  shot  at  them. 
When  through  the  timber,  Tom  descried  a  couple  of 
deer  quietly  feeding  in  the  prairie.  He  attempted  to 
get  a  shot,  and  laid  his  plans  for  that  purpose  with  great 


AN    INDIAN    CAMP.  55 

judgment  and  every  prospect  of  success ;  but  the  ani- 
mals appeared  extremely  shy,  and  discovered  him  be- 
fore he  was  within  reach  of  them.  A  little  farther  up 
the  prairie  another  deer  was  discovered  ;  but  like  the 
others,  it  was  timid  and  on  the  look-out  for  danger,  and 
ran  off  before  my  companion  was  within  two  hundred 
yards.  "  There's  been  Injuns  round  here  lately,  I  know 
by  the  way  the  critters  work,"  said  Tom  in  his  quiet 
way,  at  the  same  time  pointing  to  the  last  deer  we  had 
started,  which  was  rapidly  bounding  away  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

The  hunter  now  hesitated  a  moment,  took  a  hurried 
but  careful  survey  of  the  surrounding  scene,  and  then 
kept  on  his  course  up  the  prairie,  in  an  opposite  direc- 
tion from  that  in  which  our  party  were  encamped.  We 
had  not  proceeded  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  were  within 
about  the  same  distance  of  the  wood  on  our  left,  when 
an  abrupt  roll  of  the  prairie  brought  us  suddenly  in 
sight  of  a  large,  and,  to  all  appearance,  recently  desert- 
ed Indian  camp,  for  the  embers  of  some  of  the  fires 
were  still  smouldering.  "  I  knew  it,"  said  Tom,  and 
pausing  a  moment,  and  circling  the  prairie  with  his  eye, 
finished  the  sentence  with  "  and  some  of  'em  are  close 
by,  now."  I  said  not  a  word,  but  watched  every  move- 
ment of  the  hunter.  That  danger  was  lurking  near  I 
was  well  aware,  and  if  any  one  could  combat  it  success- 
fully I  felt  equally  confident  it  was  my  companion.  Al- 
though the  movement  appeared  singular  enough  to  me, 
Tom  kept  directly  on  nearly  in  the  same  direction,  only 
so  far  varying  his  course  as  to  leave  the  Indian  camp 
fires  on  the  right.  We  had  advanced  but  a  few  steps 
before  the  footprints  of  men  were  plainly  visible  on  the 
prairie  grass.  That  they  were  footprints,  and  of  five 
men,  I  could  see  myself;  but  which  way  they  had  gone, 


56  SAGACITY    OP    TOM   HANCOCK. 

and  what  time  had  elapsed  since  the  prints  were  form- 
ed, were  matters  to  me  of  the  most  profound  mystery. 
My  first  impulse  was  to  hasten  immediately  to  our  camp, 
keeping  on  the  same  side  of  the  wood  until  opposite,  or 
nearly  so,  to  our  party ;  but  I  said  not  a  word.  Tom 
hastily  threw  himself  upon  his  hands  and  knees,  bent 
his  head  close  to  the  ground,  and  attentively  examined 
one  of  the  footprints.  As  he  rose  to  his  feet  he  quietly 
remarked,  "  The  grass  ain't  done  risin'  yet,"  his  eye  in 
the  mean  time  following  the  fresh  trail  until  it  was  lost 
in  the  wood  at  a  point  directly  opposite  where  we  then 
stood.  That  the  Indians  had  but  just  passed  was  a 
fact  brought  home  to  my  senses  by  the  superior  craft 
of  my  companion,  and  eagerly  did  I  watch  his  farther 
movements.  He  ran  his  eye  along  the  line  of  timber  in 
either  direction,  lifted  his  rifle  from  the  ground  and  has- 
tily examined  the  lock  and  caps,  and  then,  as  if  his 
mind  was  fully  made  up  for  any  emergency,  started  at 
a  fast  walk  for  a  point  of  the  timber  still  farther  from 
our  camp.  I  followed  him  in  silence,  and  I  must  say  in 
astonishment,  for  to  my  understanding  there  was  the 
utmost  danger  in  the  course  he  took  ;  but  with  all  my 
astonishment  I  still  felt  the  utmost  confidence  in  Han- 
cock, for  there  was  a  decision  in  his  movements  that 
gave  assurance  he  fully  understood  the  nature  of  the 
dilemma  in  which  we  were  placed,  and  had  adopted  the 
wisest  measures  to  extricate  us  from  it. 

At  a  long,  steady  stride,  and  without  apparently  turn- 
ing his  eyes  either  to  the  right  or  left,  Tom  kept  a 
straight  line  for  the  timber.  The  wood  was  soon  gain- 
ed, and  at  a  pace  even  increased  we  struck  directly 
through.  I  had  not  noticed  the  circumstance  before, 
but  now  that  we  were  among  the  trees  I  saw  that  at 
this  point  the  belt  of  timber  was  much  narrower,  more 


EXTRICATION    FROM    DANGER.  57 

open,  and  presented  fewer  facilities  for  an  ambuscade. 
Arrived  on  the  eastern  side,  Tom  did  not  slacken  his 
pace  until  we  had  left  the  woods  some  three  hundred 
yards  in  our  rear,  when  placing  the  breech  of  his  rifle 
upon  the  greensward,  giving  one  long  breath,  and  cast- 
ing his  eye  along  the  thicket  we  had  just  passed,  he 
quietly  remarked,  "  We  needn't  be  afraid  of  'em  now — 
five  foot  Injuns  ain't  goin'  to  attack  us  in  gunshot  hear- 
in'  of  camp,  'specially  when  there  ain't  no  place  for  'em 
to  hide."  Not  another  word  did  he  utter,  but  lifting  his 
rifle  from  the  ground  with  a  slight  jerk,  and  catching  it 
as  it  fell  with  his  right  hand,  he  leisurely  took  the  direc- 
tion back  towards  our  camp.  This  little  adventure, 
which  certainly  would  have  been  fraught  with  some 
danger  had  it  not  been  for  the  craft  of  Hancock,  im- 
pressed me  more  fully  than  ever  with  a  belief  in  his  su- 
perior skill.  Another  fact  I  ascertained  from  our  little 
hunting  trip  :  the  Indian  camp  we  had  discovered  was 
the  same  from  which  ascended  the  different  smokes  that 
we  saw  while  journeying  from  Austin  to  San  Antonio, 
and  undoubtedly  was  the  general  rendezvous  of  the 
large  party  who  had  killed  Moore  and  wounded  Hunter 
near  the  St.  Mark's.  Where  the  main  body  was,  when 
Hancock  and  myself  visited  their  premises,  it  is  impos- 
sible to  conjecture,  but  it  was  probably  engaged  in  some 
marauding  expedition.  We  were  certainly  fortunate  in 
not  falling  in  with  it,  and  some  of  the  warriors  who  com- 
posed the  party  were  unfortunate  so  far  as  the  missing 
a  couple  of  scalps  may  go. 

We  arrived  in  camp  as  our  companions  were  sad- 
dling their  animals  and  preparing  for  departure,  so  that 
we  had  no  time  for  rest  after  the  fatigue  of  a  two  hours' 
march  in  the  hot  sun.  Our  nags,  however,  had  enjoyed 
a  rest,  if  we  had  not,  and  were  fresh  and  ready  for  the 


58  A    NARROW    ESCAPE. 

journey.  That  night  we  spent  at  the  St.  Mark's,  and 
after  enjoying  a  bath  in  its  cool  waters,  I  had  a  sound 
and  refreshing  sleep.  In  the  early  part  of  the  ensuing 
afternoon,  some  three  or  four  of  us  who  were  ahead 
descried  three  Camanches  ascending  a  distant  roll  of  the 
prairie  on  horseback.  We  gave  chase  at  once;  but 
finding,  after  a  race  of  some  ten  minutes,  that  they  were 
going  at  least  three  yards  to  our  two  over  the  hog-wal- 
low* prairies,  we  reined  up  and  returned  to  the  trail. 

On  arriving  at  the  spring  where  we  were  to  encamp 
that  night,  we  found  two  of  our  young  men,  who  had 
gone  out  early  in  the  morning  in  quest  of  game,  busily 
dressing  a  fat  buck  they  had  been  lucky  enough  to  kill. 
We  told  them  the  circumstance  of  our  having  given 
chase  to  a  small  party  of  Camanches,  and  after  we  de- 
scribed to  them  the  route  the  Indians  were  taking  when 
we  first  discovered  them,  our  hunters  at  once  said  they 
were  following  on  their  trail.  They  also  stated  that 
in  their  morning  hunt  they  had  noticed  fresh  Indian 
"sign"f  in  many  places,  and  had  little  doubt  the  Ca- 
manches we  had  chased  had  been  hanging  upon  their 
path  and  waiting  an  opportunity  to  cut  them  off.  They 
even  deemed  our  appearance  providential  in  saving 
their  lives,  as  they  had  exhausted  all  their  ammunition, 
and  must  have  been  massacred  if  the  Indians  had  over- 
taken them.J 

*  So  called  from  the  roughness  of  the  prairie  in  many  parts.  In  some  pla- 
ces the  ground  has  every  appearance  of  having  been  torn  up  by  hogs — root- 
ed, I  believe,  is  the  expression — and  hence  the  name.  The  Indian  horses 
are  early  trained  to  run  over  these  rough  places  with  freedom. 

t  Any  evidences  seen  upon  the  prairies  of  the  appearance,  whether  recent 
or  otherwise,  of  animals  or  men,  is  called  "  sign."  If  the  marks  appear  re- 
cent the  term  is  "  fresh  sign" — if  otherwise,  "  old  sign."  The  term  will  very 
likely  appear  often  in  this  work,  and  I  have  therefore  given  this  short  ex- 
planation. 

t  It  may  be  considered  singular  that  both  these  young  men,  before  the 


PRAIRIE   LEARNING.  59 

By  the  time  our  main  party  reached  the  spring  where 
we  had  come  up  with  our  hunters,  it  was  near  six 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  As  I  had  eaten  nothing  since 
daylight,  and  had  had  no  little  exercise  in  the  way  of 
riding  and  walking  in  the  interim,  the  reader  will  readi- 
ly imagine  that  I  had  a  tolerably  sharp-set  appetite.  At 
all  events,  I  ate  venison  enough  to  satisfy  a  half-famish- 
ed wolf;  there  were  no  other  accompaniments  than  red 
pepper  and  salt — but  at  that  time  I  thought  it  the  most 
delicious  meal  I  had  ever  swallowed.  Since  then  I  have 
made  a  meal  of  the  flesh  of  a  poor,  broken-down  horse 
with  far  keener  relish. 

The  next  morning,  after  a  brisk  ride  of  some  three 
hours,  we  reached  Austin  again  in  safety,  having  been 
absent  nearly  a  fortnight.  More  than  half  of  this  time  I 
had  "  camped  out"  upon  the  prairies,  with  no  other  bed 
than  the  ground,  no  other  covering  than  the  sky — blue 
or  black,  according  to  the  state  of  the  weather — and  a 
Mexican  blanket.  I  had  already  made  considerable  ad- 
vancement, practically,  in  the  science  of  astronomy, 
being  able  to  tell  the  north  star  with  much  accuracy 
after  first  occupying  some  ten  minutes  in  arranging  the 
"  pointers"  so  as  to  bear  upon  it.  A  friend  had  also 
promised  to  hunt  up  and  make  me  acquainted  with  the 
"  big  bear"  some  fair  night.  Farther  than  this,  I  could 
now  easily  distinguish  the  howling  of  a  prairie  wolf  from 

Sanla  Fe  Expedition  reached  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  met  a  violent 
death.  One  of  them,  a  young  man  named  Lockridge,  shot  himself  on  Little 
River — whether  by  accident  or  not  was  never  ascertained.  He  was  a  native, 
I  believe,  of  Louisiana,  a  lawyer  by  profession,  of  good  manners,  excellent 
education,  and  modest,  retiring  deportment.  He  was  much  beloved  by  all 
who  knew  him,  and  was  buried  with  military  honours  near  the  spot  where 
he  breathed  his  last.  The  other,  Doctor  Bell,  was  an  assistant  surgeon,  and 
a  brother  of  his  is  said  to  be  a  captain  in  the  United  States  army.  The  doc- 
tor was  killed  by  Indians  on  the  Grand  Prairie,  and  his  loss  was  deeply  re- 
gretted by  those  who  knew  him  best. 


60  AN    AWKWARD    TUMBLE. 

the  screeching  of  an  owl,  points  upon  which  I  was  sore- 
ly puzzled  the  first  time  I  heard  one  of  their  concerts. 
But  to  speak  seriously,  I  had  found  no  bad  effects  from 
exposure  so  far,  and  was  every  day  growing  more  and 
more  reconciled  to  the  long  tour  which  still  lay  in  pros- 
pect before  me. 

The  evening  after  my  return  to  Austin,  however,  an 
accident  occurred  which  not  only  came  near  preventing 
me  from  leaving  for  Santa  Fe,  but  for  any  other  place 
in  this  lower  world.  The  day  had  been  hot  and  sultry, 
threatening  rain,  and  when  night  came  the  sky  was 
shrouded  in  clouds  of  pitchy  blackness.  A  man's  hand 
could  have  been  seen  as  plainly  had  it  been  in  Kams- 
chatka  as  when  held  before  his  face  at  arm's-length  ;  but 
notwithstanding  the  darkness,  some  four  or  five  of  us 
made  up  a  little  party  for  the  purpose  of  bathing,  and 
started  for  the  Colorado  with  that  intention.  As  the 
river  is  approached,  the  traveller  meets  with  a  fork  in 
the  road,  one  trail  leading  directly  down  a  cut- way  ex- 
cavated in  the  high  steep  bank,  while  the  other  conducts 
to  the  bluff  and  then  turns  abruptly  off  along  its  edge.  I 
happened  to  be  ahead,  and  unfortunately  took  the  wrong 
trail ;  yet  so  confident  was  I  that  I  was  right,  that  I  walk- 
ed directly  up  to  and  over  what  may  emphatically  be 
called  the  "  jumping-off  place"  of  the  Rio  Colorado.  It 
was  no  stumble,  no  pitching  head  first  over  a  steep  pre- 
cipice, but  on  the  contrary  I  walked  directly  off  the  gid- 
dy height — to  use  a  common  expression,  went  over  "  all 
standing." 

It  is  to  be  presumed  that  a  man's  feelings  are  by  no 
means  pleasant  when  he  suddenly  finds  that  his  feet  have 
no  footing,  and  that  his  gravity  is  carrying  him,  with  a 
velocity  absolutely  uncomfortable,  to  say  nothing  of  the 
attendant  danger,  from  a  third  or  fourth  story  window 


RESULTS    OF   A    FALL.  61 

to  a  sidewalk,  with  every  brick  in  which  he  is  perfectly 
familiar ;  but  his  feelings  border  upon  dissatisfaction  and 
distrust  when  he  ascertains  that  he  is  standing  upon 
nothing,  with  an  unknown  destination  before  him,  and 
has  time  to  reflect,  while  descending,  upon  the  distance 
he  has  already  come  and  to  indulge  in  speculations  as 
to  the  distance  he  has  yet  to  go.  My  experience  in, 
falling  from  high  places  is  limited  to  one  or  two  flights 
of  this  kind,  and  that  the  world  may  have  the  benefit  of 
it,  I  will  return  to  the  height  from  which  I  first  started, 
and  give  a  plain  recital  of  the  fall  and  the  injuries  I  sus- 
tained in  consequence. 

The  distance  through  which  I  passed  I  have  never 
been  able  to  ascertain,  but  it  was  far  from  inconsidera- 
ble. I  was  fortunate  in  retaining  an  upright  position 
while  falling,  and  had  presence  of  mind  to  brace  myself 
strongly,  thinking  that  I  should  be  better  enabled  there- 
by to  meet  the  shock  of  striking  the  bottom,  whether  of 
earth,  or  stone,  or  water,  I  was  at  the  time  ignorant.  My 
right  foot  reached  terra  firma  first,  the  concussion  shat- 
tering the  ankle  badly,  and,  as  I  then  thought,  breaking 
every  bone  in  my  body.  My  back,  in  particular,  was 
so  severely  injured  by  the  shock,  that  I  was  entirely  be- 
reft of  the  power  to  move.  My  friends  hurried  back  as 
fast  as  the  darkness  of  the  night  would  permit,  groped 
their  way  until  they  had  found  the  road  I  had  unfortu- 
nately missed,  and  were  finally  successful  in  reaching 
me.  I  was  excessively  faint,  and  called  for  water.  One 
of  the  party  soon  returned  from  the  river  with  his  hat 
full,  sprinkled  my  face  and  neck,  and  gave  me  a  draught. 
They  next  lifted  me,  with  as  much  care  as  possible,  to 
their  shoulders,  and  carried  me  back  to  the  hotel  we 
had  left  but  a  few  minutes  before  in  high  and  buoyant 
spirits ;  but  it  seemed  as  though  every  faculty  of  my 

VOL.  I.— F 


62  A   FINIS   TO   DANCING. 

body  was  paralyzed.  Doctor  Brenham,  who  was  board- 
ing at  the  same  hotel,  immediately  called  upon  me  and 
did  everything  in  the  power  of  a  physician  or  surgeon. 
The  next  morning  I  was  enabled  to  ascertain  the  extent 
of  my  injuries,  which,  though  severe,  were  not  so  bad 
as  at  first  supposed.  My  back  was  still  weak,  and 
pained  me  so  much  that  I  was  unable  to  move  without 
assistance  ;  my  ankle,  in  the  mean  time,  was  extremely 
swollen  and  entirely  useless,  and  in  addition  gave  me 
much  pain.  Yet  my  friends,  one  and  all,  said  that  I 
should  be  on  my  feet  again  in  three  or  four  weeks,  as 
well  as  ever,  and  able  to  ion  down  a  buffalo  bull  on  an 
open  prairie.  I  could  not  feel  quite  as  sanguine,  but 
still  thought  that  six  weeks,  or  two  months  at  farthest, 
would  restore  my  bruised  and  shattered  limb  to  its  ori- 
ginal strength.  But  even  my  expectations  were  wide  of 
the  mark,  for  some  two  months  elapsed  before  I  could 
even  bear  the  least  weight  upon  my  lame  foot,  and  it 
was  three  before  I  could  walk  without  much  pain. 

Even  to  this  day,  and  some  two  years  have  slipped 
away  since  I  sustained  the  injury,  the  ankle  is  weak 
and  far  from  being  cured.  Time  was  when  I  was  able 
and  willing  to  essay  a  cotillon  with  the  sprightliest — 
when  I  could  cut  pigeon- wings  and  extras,  and  perform 
the  double  shuffle  with  no  inconsiderable  precision  and 
activity ;  but  those  days  are  over  now — the  "  jig  is  up." 
I  still  have  one  consolation,  however,  and  one  which  I 
freely  recommend  to  all  who  may  be  similarly  situ- 
ated ;  when  a  man  breaks  his  leg  he  should  always  be 
thankful  it  is  no  worse — for  instance,  not  his  neck. 


VISIT   FROM  GENERAL   LAMAR.  63 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Visit  from  General  Lamar. — Preparations  for  a  Start. — Pleasant  Anticipa- 
tions.— Northers. — Bright  Side  of  the  Picture. — Speculations  as  to  the  Re- 
ception of  the  Expedition  at  Santa  Fe. — No  Thoughts  of  Fighting  the  New 
Mexicans. — Senor  Navarro. — A  Jersey  Wagon  provided. — Departure  from 
Austin. — Adieu  to  Civilization. — A  modern  Athens. — Its  sudden  Rise,  and 
more  sudden  Fall. — President  Lamar  in  Camp. — Arrival  at  the  Brushy. — 
General  Joy  among  the  Pioneers. — Reviewed  by  the  President. — Order  of 
March. — Tricks  of  young  Oxen. — Upsets. — Arrival  at  the  San  Gabrielle. — 
Camp  Stories. — Opossum  Creek. — Scene  of  a  Fight  with  the  Camanches. 
— Anecdote  of  two  Brothers. — A  night  Storm. — Buffalo  in  Sight. — Petri- 
factions.— Stories  of  Buffalo. — A  Youngster  caught. — Methods  of  Hunting 
the  Buffalo. — A  regular  Chase. — Buffalo  on  every  Side. — Fitzgerald,  and 
his  Zeal.— Falconer  among  the  Buffalo.— Returns  of  Killed  and  Wounded. 
— Arrival  at  Little  River. — Buffalo  Calves  in  Camp. — Manner  of  taking 
them. 

THE  day  succeeding  my  unfortunate  accident,  I  was 
visited,  at  my  room,  by  crowds  of  friends,  among  whom 
was  the  President,  General  Lamar.  The  only  topics 
discussed  had  some  relation  to  the  expedition.  Prepar- 
ations were  going  on  in  every  quarter.  The  merchants 
were  packing  their  goods,  and  mending  and  strength- 
ening the  heavy  wagons  upon  which  they  were  to  be 
transported.  Volunteers  were  cleaning  and  preparing 
their  arms,  as  we  were  to  enter  an  Indian  and  buffalo 
range  almost  immediately — in  a  word,  all  was  hurry, 
bustle,  and  excitement.  Every  one  was  anticipating  an 
exciting,  a  glorious  frolic,  the  wild  gossiping  tales  of  old 
hunters  and  campaigners  tending,  not  a  little,  to  in- 
crease the  fever  of  impatience  to  be  upon  the  road. 
Not  a  word  was  said  of  the  hardships,  the  dangers,  the 
difficulties  we  were  to  encounter — the  biting  "north- 


64  REASONS    FOR    THE    EXPEDITION. 

ers,"*  the  damp  and  dreary  bivouac,  the  intolerable 
thirst,  the  gnawing  hunger — these  were  the  dark  sides 
of  the  picture,  and  were  never  exhibited. 

As  to  our  reception  on  reaching  Santa  Fe  but  little 
was  said.  Texas  claims,  as  I  have  before  stated,  to  the 
Rio  Grande  ;  and  as  Santa  Fe  is  situated  some  fourteen 
miles  from  that  stream,  on  the  eastern  or  Texan  side, 
no  invasion  of  the  territory  of  Mexico  was  thought  of. 
It  is  true  Texas  had  never  been  able  to  exercise  juris- 
diction over  that  section,  because  of  its  isolated  position 
and  the  immense  wilderness  that  separates  it  from  the 
other  portions  of  the  Republic  ;  but  this  was  no  reason 
why  she  should  not,  at  some  time,  assert  her  claims. 
The  universal  -impression  in  Texas  was,  that  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Santa  Fe  were  anxious  to  throw  off  a  yoke, 
which  was  not  only  galling,  but  did  not  of  right  belong 
to  them,  and  rally  under  the  "  lone  star"  banner ;  and 
events  which  have  since  transpired,  and  which  I  shall 
refer  to  hereafter,  have  convinced  me  that  such  was  the 
feeling  with  the  larger  part  of  the  population.  Should 
any  opposition  be  made  to  the  peaceable  entry  of  the 
Texan  pioneers,  it  was  thought  it  would  come  from  the 
few  regular  troops  always  stationed  at  Santa  Fe  by  the 
government  of  Mexico ;  and  this  force  would  easily 
have  been  put  down  if  a  large  majority  of  the  residents 
were  in  favour  of  such  a  course.  As  for  having  any- 
thing like  a  regular  battle,  or  forcibly  subduing  the 
country  should  the  inhabitants  be  found  hostile,  such 
events  were  neither  intended  nor  talked  of.  Invading 
armies,  when  hard  fighting  is  anticipated,  seldom  take 
merchandise  with  them  to  sell  to  their  enemies.  The 

*  The  prairies  of  Texas  are  visited,  every  season,  by  cold  rains  and  winds 
from  the  north,  called  "  northers."  The  winds  have  full  sweep  directly  from 
the  mountains,  and  not  only  animals,  but  men  have  frequently  perished  du- 
ring their  continuance. 


OBJECTS    OF    THE    VOLUNTEERS.  65 

merchant,  who  sends  a  "  venture"  to  some  distant  and 
barbarous  shore,  anticipates,  on  reaching  his  destination, 
either  losing  all  or  reaping  a  rich  harvest  of  profit. 
The  Texans  looked  for  danger  on  the  road  across  the 
prairies — nothing  more.  Safely  arrived  in  New  Mex- 
ico, their  perils  were  all  passed — they  had,  with  the 
hopes  and  expectations  offered  them,  no  farther  risks  to 
incur.  But  adverse  circumstances  stepped  in  to  thwart 
their  bright  dreams  of  commercial  success — they  were 
robbed  of  all,  property  and  liberty — and  after  drinking 
thus  deeply  of  the  bitter  cup  of  misfortune,  have  been 
held  up,  by  those  who  knew  neither  the  men  nor  their 
intentions,  as  a  "  gang  of  marauders,"  a  "  horde  of  land 
pirates." 

But  what,  the  reader  will  ask,  induced  so  large  a 
body  of  young  men  to  start  upon  an  expedition  of  this 
kind  ?  What  objects  could  they  have  in  view  ?  The 
answer  is  easy  enough.  They  were  actuated  by  that 
love  of  adventure,  which  is  inherent  in  thousands  of  our 
race ;  they  were  anxious  to  participate  in  the  excite- 
ments ever  incidental  to  a  prairie  tour.  What  induced 
Washington  Irving  and  his  companions  to  make  a  trip 
to  the  prairies  west  of  the  Osage  hunting-grounds? 
Why  did  the  Honourable  Charles  A.  Murray  spend  a 
summer  with  the  buffaloes  and  the  Pawnees  ?  And  why 
does  Sir  William  Drummond  Stewart,  year  after  year, 
leave  wealth  and  title,  to  say  nothing  of  the  comforts 
and  honours  in  their  train,  and  pass  his  summers  among 
the  Indians  high  up  on  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and 
its  tributaries  ?  To  our  party,  the  incentives  were  un- 
usually strong  and  exciting.  We  were  to  pass  over  a 
portion  of  country  entirely  unknown  to  the  white  man, 
and  might  reasonably  expect  to  meet  with  a  larger 
share  of  adventure  than  usually  falls  to  the  lot  of  the 
F  2 


66  THE  AUTHOR'S  PERSONAL  MOTIVES. 

Western  travellers.  We  felt  confident  that  we  should 
meet  with  large  bands  of  Indians,  known  to  live  direct- 
ly on  our  path,  who  were  hostile  alike  to  Texas  and 
Mexico,  and  with  whom  we  should  have  an  occasional 
"  skrimmage."  We  should  see  the  American  Indian, 
too,  in  his  primitive  and  unhunted  retreat.  Thus  fraught 
with  adventure,  the  tour  promised  to  be  one  of  unusual 
interest. 

While  lying  confined  to  my  bed  at  Austin,  I  receiv- 
ed, from  Mr.  Roberts,  then  acting  Secretary  of  State,  a 
letter  written  at  the  request  of  General  Lamar,  inviting 
me  to  join  the  expedition  as  a  "  guest."  I  was  to  be 
subject  to  no  control,  civil  or  military ;  I  was  free  to 
remain  with  the  expedition  so  long  as  it  suited  my  con- 
venience, and  to  leave  it  when  I  pleased — in  short,  I 
had  no  connexion,  other  than  that  of  a  stranger  who 
happened  to  be  travelling  the  same  road,  with  the  men 
whom  I  accompanied,  or  with  the  objects  in  which  they 
were  engaged.  In  the  same  letter  I  was  kindly  invited 
to  mess  with  the  commissioners,  or  civil  branch  of  the 
expedition,  an  invitation  I  gladly  accepted.  This  letter, 
with  my  passport,  and  other  papers  of  importance  as 
defining  the  relation  in  which  I  stood  to  the  expedition,  I 
placed  in  a  secure  parcel,  and  always  kept  about  my 
person.  I  was  determined,  by  no  act  of  mine,  to  forfeit 
my  claim  to  American  protection  any  farther  than  by 
accompanying  the  expedition  across  wild  and  unknown 
prairies ;  and  considering  these  papers  the  best  proofs 
I  could  have  to  sustain  me  should  difficulties,  which  I 
certainly  did  not  anticipate,  arise  on  my  reaching  New 
Mexico,  I  was  careful  in  preserving  them.  The  obli- 
gations I  considered  myself  under  to  the  officers  of  the 
expedition  were  these :  to  obey  all  general  orders  for 
the  well-being  and  safety  of  the  men,  and  if  we  were 


PROVISION    FOR    CRIPPLES.  67 

attacked  by  Indians  on  the  march,  or  met  with  any  op- 
position from  them,  to  take  an  active  part  with  my 
friends.  Here  my  obligations  ceased.  I  had  started 
with  the  intention  of  making  the  entire  tour  of  Mexico, 
and  could  not  compromise  myself  so  far  as  to  take  any 
part  in  the  events  which  might  occur  on  reaching  the 
settlements  of  New  Mexico,  whether  these  events  should 
be  pacific  or  hostile.  But  to  continue  my  narrative  of 
the  movements  of  the  expedition. 

The  18th  of  June  arrived,  and  with  it  the  time  for 
the  departure  of  the  pioneers.  It  was  now  three  days 
since  I  had  met  with  my  unfortunate  accident,  and  I 
was  still  unable  to  move  without  assistance.  A  few  of 
my  friends  endeavoured  to  dissuade  me  from  going ;  but  I 
was  blessed,  or  cursed,  as  the  case  may  be,  with  strongly- 
developed  organs  of  self-will,  obstinacy,  and  "  go-ahead- 
ity,"  and  made  up  my  mind  to  go  even  if  I  had  to  be  car- 
ried. "  I  will  go  it  if  I  lose  a  leg,"  is  a  common  yet  not 
very  classical  remark  among  a 'certain  class  of  Western 
men,  when  they  have  fully  made  up  their  minds  to 
do  a  thing.  I  determined  upon  starting  for  New  Mex- 
ico although  I  had  already  as  good  as  lost  a  leg,  at  least 
for  all  present  purposes,  and  it  is  now  too  late  to  regret 
that  I  did  so. 

Among  the  Texan  Commissioners  was  Jose  Antonio 
Navarro,  Esq.,*  who,  like  myself,  was  unable  to  walk. 
For  our  accommodation,  General  Lamar  provided  a 
neat  Jersey  wagon,  drawn  by  two  mules,  and  covered 
so  as  to  protect  us  from  the  sun  and  rain  during  the 
long  marches. 

*  Mr.  Navarro  is  the  only  member  of  the  Santa  Fe  pioneers  still  retained 
a  prisoner.  He  is  a  Mexican  by  birth,  was  once  a  senator  in  the  Congress 
of  that  Republic,  is  a  man  of  no  inconsiderable  abilities  and  influence,  and  has 
been  punished  with  unusual  severity.  I  found  him  a  kind-hearted,  gentle- 
manly man,  and  regret  that  he  was  not  liberated  with  the  rest  of  the  prisoners. 


68  ENTRANCE   ON   THE   PRAIRIES. 

As  I  have  stated  above,  it  was  on  the  18th  of  June 
that  the  last  detachment  of  the  expedition  left  Austin. 
This  was  at  least  one  month  later  than  it  should  have 
been,  on  account  of  both  water  and  grass  ;  but  unavoid- 
able delays  had  arisen  in  getting  everything  in  readi- 
ness, and  even  as  it  was,  General  McLeo.d,  the  com- 
mander of  the  military  portion,  was  obliged  to  march 
unprovided  with  many  necessaries.  The  main  body  of 
the  expedition  had  been  lying  encamped  for  some  time 
on  the  Brushy,  a  small  stream  about  twenty  miles  from 
Austin.  As  far  as  this  point  General  Lamar  accompa- 
nied the  last  party.  I  was  assisted  into  the  wagon  on 
leaving,  but  still  bade  adieu  to  civilization,  its  comforts 
and  enjoyments,  in  good  spirits. 

At  Austin  we  left  the  last  tokens  of  a  settlement — 
beyond,  all  was  in  a  state  of  wild,  uncultivated  nature. 
Singular  as  it  may  appear,  the  then  capital  of  Texas 
was  ,the  extreme  frontier  town,  and  what  may  appear 
still  more  strange,  daring  bands  of  hostile  Indians  have 
frequently  been  known  to  enter  the  principal  streets, 
run  off  with  horses  tied  to  the  very  doorposts  of  their 
owners,  and  in  some  instances  have  even  murdered  the 
inhabitants  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  govern- 
ment-house. 

From  Austin  to  the  Brushy  the  road — for  here  there 
is  an  old  military  road — runs  over  rolling  and  beautiful 
prairies,  occasionally  relieved  by  the  slight  skirting  of 
timber  which  fringes  the  margins  of  the  small  streams, 
or  by  a  small  grove  of  timber  so  regularly  planted  by 
nature  that  it  would  almost  seem  the  hand  of  man  had 
assisted  in  its  production. 

To  the  left  of  the  road,  at  the  distance  of  some  mile 
and  a  half  or  two  miles,  is  a  high  and  delightful  situation, 
which  some  visionary  speculator,  years  since,  endeav- 
oured to  convert  into  a  stirring:  town. 


A    CITY    ON    PAPER.  69 

In  the  first  place,  he  purchased  a  beautiful  site  for  a 
city — lacking  only  all  the  essentials  to  support  a  large 
population.  Highly-coloured  plans  were  got  out,  and 
on  paper,  at  least,  a  more  flourishing  place  never  exist- 
ed. There  were  colleges  and  squares,  city  halls  and 
penitentiaries,  public  walks  and  public  houses — and, 
looking  at  the  engravings,  so  well  were  they  executed, 
a  man  could  almost  imagine  he  heard  the  carriages  rat- 
tling over  the  pavements,  and  the  busy  hum  which  de- 
notes the  large  and  thriving  city. 

The  name  by  which  it  was  known  on  the  plans — it 
cannot  be  found  on  the  map  of  Texas — was  Athens  ; 
and  so  firmly  did  the  visionary  who  planned  it  believe 
in  his  speculation,  that  he  built  a  house  and  made  some 
other  and  expensive  improvements  on  the  premises. 
While  engaged  in  digging  a  well,  assisted  by  some  two 
or  three  negroes,  he  was  attacked  by  a  roaming  party 
of  Camanches  and  driven  off,  narrowly  escaping  with 
his  life.  The  person  who  gave  me  this  information  said 
that  the  man  never  returned,  and  that  everything  re- 
mained just  as  he  had  left  it.  Thus  fell  a  modern  Athens. 

We  made  a  short  stop,  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  at 
a  cool  grove.  Near  it  was  a  fine  spring  of  water,  and 
under  the  shade  of  the  over-arching  boughs  a  plain  din- 
ner was  prepared.  Every  man  appeared  to  be  his  own 
cook,  President  Lamar  as  well  as  the  rest.  I  also  ob- 
served that  his  excellency  unsaddled  and  staked  his  own 
horse  on  a  small  plot  of  grass  near  by.  There  was  a 
specimen  of  Republican  simplicity — the  chief  magistrate 
of  a  nation  cooking  his  own  dinner  and  grooming  his 
own  horse  !  In  all  my  intercourse  with  General  Lamar 
I  ever  found  him  a  courteous  and  honourable  gentle- 
man, possessing  a  brilliant  intellect,  which  has  been 
highly  cultivated  ;  and  if  Texas  ever  had  a  warm  and 
untiring  friend,  it  was  and  is  Mirabeau  B.  Lamar. 


70  THE    JOURNEY    IN   PROSPECT. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  reached  camp, 
a  beautiful  and  romantic  situation  on  the  Brushy,  near 
several  large  springs  of  cool  and  most  delicious  water. 
The  camp  was  all  animation  on  our  arrival,  as  it  was  a 
token  that  the  expedition  was  soon  to  be  on  the  march. 
Many  of  the  volunteers  had  been  stationed  at  this  place 
three  or  four  weeks,  and  had  become  impatient  of  the 
delay ;  now  that  it  was  rendered  certain  that  they  were 
soon  to  be  on  the  move  to  Santa  Fe,  all  was  joy,  activ- 
ity, and  life. 

General  Lamar  was  accompanied  by  the  Honourable 
Mr.  Chalmers,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  and  several 
other  gentlemen,  who  all  "  roughed  it"  upon  the  ground 
at  night  with  the  volunteers — a  single  blanket  forming 
each  man's  bed.  The  next  morning  the  different  com- 
panies were  reviewed,  a  neat  and  appropriate  address 
was  delivered  by  the  President,  after  which  himself  and 
party  returned  to  Austin. 

Two  days  were  now  passed  on  the  Brushy  in  reload- 
ing the  wagons,  and  making  the  necessary  arrange- 
ments for  the  long  journey  we  had  before  us.  Here  I 
would  state,  that  never  since  the  discovery  of  America 
had  such  a  journey  been  undertaken.  Years  before  the 
first  wagon  started  from  St.  Louis  for  Santa  Fe  every 
inch  of  the  country  was  well  known  and  the  route  that 
was  to  be  taken  clearly  defined  ;  all  that  was  known  in 
our  case  was,  that  Austin  was  in  such  a  latitude  and 
longitude  and  Santa  Fe  in  another — of  the  principal 
part  of  the  country  between  the  two  points  not  a  man 
among  us  knew  anything.  That  deep  rivers  were  to  be 
crossed,  that  ravines  were  to  be  encountered,  that  salt 
and  dry  prairies  were  to  be  met — in  short,  that  innu- 
merable obstacles  would  be  found  in  our  path,  were 
tilings  that  every  one  expected :  of  the  nature  and  ex- 


OFF    AT    I*mT.  71 

tent  of  these  obstacles  all  were  alike  ignorant.  Yet  in 
the  face  of  difficulties  which  seemed  almost  insurmount- 
able the  expedition  started,  and  after  toil  almost  incred- 
ible they  were  overcome — twenty-four  wagons  were 
taken  in  safety  over  nearly  a  thousand  miles  that  never 
had  been  trodden  before  except  by  the  savage.  At 
starting  it  was  known  that  the  direct  course  was  almost 
northwest ;  but  as  it  was  feared  there  might  be  a  scar- 
city of  water  by  taking  a  straight  line,  it  was  deemed 
prudent  to  follow  the  course  of  the  Brazos,  cut  through 
the  celebrated  Cross  Timbers  before  reaching  Red  Riv- 
er, and  then  follow  up  that  stream,  the  course  of  which 
was  supposed  to  be  nearly  east  and  west.  By  this  route 
we  made  nearly  a  right  angle,  and  the  journey  was 
much  longer,  and  probably  more  difficult. 

On  the  morning  of  June  21st,  the  expedition  finally 
took  up  the  line  of  march  from  the  fertile  valley  and 
cool  springs  of  the  Brushy.  Two  companies,  number- 
ing some  eighty  men,  were  detailed  to  go  forward  as  an 
advanced  guard ;  then  came  the  wagons,  in  single  file, 
and  the  beef  cattle  that  were  to  furnish  us  with  meat. 
One  company  was  also  detailed  for  fatigue  duty — driving 
the  cattle  and  cutting  away  the  banks  of  creeks,  or  re- 
moving any  obstacles  that  might  obstruct  the  passage  of 
the  wagons.  This  was  the  most  irksome  and  laborious 
duty  of  all,  and  was  performed  by  the  companies  in 
turn.  The  rear-guard  brought  up  the  long  procession, 
and  consisted  of  three  companies,  there  being  six  in  all. 
These  companies  were  commanded  by  Captains  Cald- 
well,  Sutton,  Houghton,  Hudson,  Strain,  and  Lewis,  the 
latter  commanding  the  artillery  company,  which  had 
one  brass  six-pounder.  The  number  of  volunteers  do- 
ing duty  was  two  hundred  and  seventy.  In  addition, 
there  were  about  fifty  persons  attached  to  the  expedi- 


72  THE  FIR*  DAY'S  MARCH.  . 

tion  in  some  way,  being  General  McLeod  and  his  staff, 
the  commissioners,  merchants,  tourists,  and  servants. 
None  of  these,  except  the  first  named,  did  military  or 
guard  duty. 

The  long  train  of  wagons  moving  heavily  forward, 
with  the  different  companies  of  volunteers,  all  well 
mounted  and  well  armed  and  riding  in  double  file,  pre- 
sented an  imposing  as  well  as  an  animating  spectacle, 
causing  every  heart  to  beat  high  with  the  anticipation 
of  exciting  incidents  on  the  boundless  prairies.  On  the 
first  day  many  of  the  young  oxen,  "  critters"  that  had 
never  been  yoked  before,  performed  divers  unseemly 
antics,  diverting  enough  to  themselves  in  all  probability, 
but  by  no  means  pleasing  to  the  drivers.  The  conse- 
quence was  that  a  number  of  the  wagons  were  upset, 
occasioning  delays  which  made  it  near  night  before  we 
reached  our  camping  ground  on  the  San  Gabriel. 
The  road  this  day  was  over  beautiful  rolling  prairies, 
the  land  rich,  and  susceptible  of  cultivation. 

The  San  Gabriel  is  a  picturesque  stream  running 
into  the  Brazos.  A  few  miles  above  our  camp,  on  its 
banks,  a  settlement  had  formerly  been  made  by  one  or 
two  families ;  but  they  had  been  attacked  by  Indians, 
and  those  who  were  not  killed  driven  off.  The  stream 
abounds  with  trout,  perch,  and  catfish,  as  do  nearly  all 
the  watercourses  in  this  section  of  Texas.  Some  of 
our  party,  who  were  first  in,  amused  themselves  by 
fishing,  and  shooting  alligators,  the  latter  being  too  plen- 
tiful for  any  useful  purposes. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  beef  cattle,  one  of  them  was  se- 
lected, shot,  and  dressed  with  the  greatest  expedition, 
and  then  followed  the  cooking  and  eating  of  both  dinner 
and  supper.  We  had  made  no  stop  during  the  day, 
which  necessarily  brought  both  meals  together  and 
good  appetites  to  do  them  justice. 


EXTENSIVE    LODGINGS.  73 

Our  fare  was  simple  enough — roasted  or  broiled  beef, 
cooked  on  sticks  or  ramrods  before  the  fire,  with  salt, 
coffee,  and  sugar.  No  breadstuffs  were  provided,  un- 
less*, small  quantity  of  rice  can  be  dignified  with  that 
title ;  but  the  appetites  we  contracted  during  our  long 
ride  across  the  high,  dry,  and  bracing  prairies  served 
us  instead  of  bread  and  dessert,  and  a  more  hearty 
meal  it  has  seldom  been  my  lot  to  partake  of. 

Our  meal  over,  knots  of  the  volunteers  would  con- 
gregate, here  and  there,  around  the  camp  fires,  telling 
stories  of  the  marvellous  and  spinning  long  yarns  about 
border  forays,  buffalo  hunts,  and  brushes  with  the  In- 
dians of  the  prairies.  The  stories  of  buffalo  hunting,  in 
particular,  were  eagerly  listened  to,  as  it  was  known 
that  in  ten  days  we  should  be  in  the  best  range  for  these 
animals  in  Texas. 

An  hour  or  two  would  be  whiled  away  in  this  man- 
ner, and  then  preparations  would  be  made  for  retiring 
to  sleep — a  very  simple  process  upon  a  campaign.  A 
person  has  only  to  pick  out  a  soft  place  upon  the  ground, 
roll  himself  up  in  his  blanket,  and  take  immediate  pos- 
session of  his  bedroom ;  and  though  people  who  have 
never  lived  "  out  of  doors"  may  picture  anything  but 
comfort  with  such  lodgings,  sounder,  sweeter,  and  more 
refreshing  sleep  never  visited  the  downiest  couch  than 
can  be  found  upon  the  earth  on  one  of  our  western 
prairies.  Should  any  of  my  readers  ever  undertake  a 
tour  of  the  kind,  and  find  any  difficulty  in  getting  to 
sleep,  I  can  recommend  a  plan  to  bring  about  that  de- 
sirable object  which  has  never  been  known  to  fail  in  a 
single  instance :  just  count  the  stars. 

As  the  days  were  now  extremely  warm,  early  morn- 
ing starts  were  recommended  and  adopted.  Accord- 
ingly, at  daybreak  on  the  22d  of  June,  we  were  awa- 

VOL.  I.--G 


74  A    FIGHT  WITH   THE   INDIANS. 

kened  by  the  cheering  notes  of  the  reveille.  We  had  a 
small  but  tolerably  well-organized  band  with  us,  in- 
cluding some  two  or  three  clarionets,  a  horn  and  bu- 
gle, besides  fifes  and  drums.  To  the  latter  instruments 
was  assigned  the  task  of  waking  us  in  the  morning ; 
and  at  first  there  was  something  so  inspiriting  in  the 
lively  notes  of  the  reveille  breaking  the  deep  stillness  of 
the  early  dawn,  that  with  me  farther  sleep  was  uncared 
for.  I  was  heartily  tired  of  it  before  the  campaign  was 
half  over. 

Notwithstanding  our  early  start,  we  made  but  twelve 
miles  this  day,  encamping  on  Opossum  Creek,  as  there 
was  no  water  beyond  within  several  miles.  During 
this  day  we  passed  the  scene  of  an  Indian  fight  which 
took  place  a  year  or  two  previous,  and  in  which  Major 
Howard,  having  drawn  a  party  of  Camanches  into  an 
ambuscade,  gave  them  a  severe  drubbing.  His  men 
were  fortunate  enough  to  discover  the  Indians  before 
these  had  seen  their  white  enemies,  giving  the  latter 
every  advantage.  Knowing,  full  well,  that  he  never 
could  come  up  with  the  Camanches  in  a  chase,  or  pro- 
voke them  into  an  open  fight  on  the  prairies,  for  in  num- 
bers the  two  parties  were  nearly  equal,*  Major  H.  re- 
sorted to  a  stratagem.  Secreting  his  men  in  a  thick 
grove  of  timber,  he  started  off  alone,  well  mounted,  in 
the  direction  of  the  enemy.  The  moment  the  Indians 
saw  him  they  considered  his  scalp  as  certain  as  though 
it  was  already  hanging  at  their  saddle-skirts,  and 
with  frightful  yells  gave  chase.  The  gallant  officer 
trusted  to  his  steed,  at  a  time  when  a  stumble  would 
have  been  inevitable  destruction  to  both.  The  Texans, 
in  their  covert,  could  plainly  hear  the  distant  whoops 

*  The  Camanches,  even  on  the  prairies,  never  attack  the  whites  unless 
they  greatly  outnumber  them. 


,       FRATERNAL   DEVOTION.  75 

of  the  savages,  and  hugged  still  closer  the  trees  behind 
which  they  were  sheltered.  With  almost  lightning 
speed  the  pursued  and  pursuers  scoured  across  the 
prairie,  the  former  leading  the  savages  directly  within 
range  of  his  own  men.  When  at  a  point  opposite  the 
Texans,  and  within  a  few  yards'  distance,  a  well-direct- 
ed volley  tumbled  seven  of  the  Camanches  dead  from 
their  horses.  So  sudden  and  unexpected  was  this  re- 
ception, that  the  Indians  turned  their  horses  and  made 
a  precipitate  retreat.  One  only  remained  behind,  whose 
heroic  conduct  deserves  a  passing  remark.  Among  the 
dead  was  his  brother,  and  in  endeavouring  to  save  the 
body  from  the  hands  of  the  Texans  the  savage  lost  his 
own  life.  He  dismounted,  and  absolutely  succeeded  in 
packing  his  lifeless  brother  upon  his  horse  amid  a 
shower  of  bullets ;  but  while  mounting,  a  well-directed 
rifle-ball  pierced  him  to  the  heart,  and  the  brothers 
came  together  to  the  ground.  Not  one  of  Major  How- 
ard's men  was  injured. 

In  the  night  we  passed  at  Opossum  Creek  we  were 
visited  by  a  tremendous  storm  of  thunder,  lightning,  and 
wind,  although  but  little  rain  fell ;  our  tent  had  been 
pitched,  and,  as  we  thought,  securely ;  but  the  first 
heavy  gust  of  wind  carried  it  completely  from  its  fasten- 
ings, and  the  rest  of  the  night,  to  quote  the  expression 
of  one  of  our  men,  we  "  took  plain  without  kiver." 

Our  next  day's  travel  carried  us  across  rolling  prai- 
ries, not  a  tree  being  in  sight  in  any  direction.  Here 
and  there,  in  the  distance,  small  gangs  of  buffaloes  could 
be  seen  scampering  off,  the  scouting  parties,  it  would 
seem,  of  the  immense  herds  we  were  soon  to  encounter. 
Several  of  the  huge  animals  were  run  down  and  killed 
during  the  day  by  some  of  our  hunters,  and  that  night, 
for  the  first  time,  I  made  a  meal  of  buffalo  meat — one 


76  AN  OLD  HUNTER'S  STORY. 

of  those  killed  being  a  fat  cow,  and  her  flesh  of  fine  tex- 
ture and  delicious  sweetness.  Two  buffaloes  had  also 
been  killed  on  the  previous  day ;  but  they  were  old  and 
poor,  and  nothing  but  their  tongues  was  brought  in. 

Large  numbers  of  petrifactions,  some  of  them  un- 
commonly perfect,  were  found  in  the  vicinity  of  our 
camp  on  Deer  Creek.  Although  the  distance  must  be 
some  three  hundred  miles  from  the  seacoast,  we  still 
found  fossil  specimens  of  oysters  and  other  shell-fish  in 
abundance,  and  in  good  preservation.  I  remember  one 
oyster,  in  particular,  the  shell  of  which,  on  being  forced 
open,  displayed  the  edible  part  of  that  delicate  luxury 
in  form  and  colour  so  natural  that  I  could  not  help 
thinking  of  pepper,  salt,  vinegar  and  a  fork,  at  once. 

The  stories  this  night  in  camp  were  all  in  relation  to 
buffalo,  the  abundance  of  "  sign"  in  the  shape  of  tracks, 
and  places  where  the  grass  had  been  eaten  close,  plain- 
ly denoting  that  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of  a  large  herd. 
The  old  campaigners,  and  there  were  many  among  us, 
told  stories  of  the  immense  number  they  had  seen  at  a 
time,  while  the  harum-scarum  youngsters  of  the  camp 
would  listen  eagerly  to  their  tales,  manifesting,  at  the 
same  time,  a  restless  impatience  to  be  among  the  huge 
monarchs  of  the  prairies. 

"  How  many  buffalo  did  you  ever  see  at  one  time  ?" 
asked  a  young  man,  whose  greatest  achievement  had 
been  the  bringing  down  a  fat  buck,  addressing  one  of 
the  oldest  backwoodsmen  in  camp. 

"Can't  say,  exactly — probably  between  two  and 
three  million  !"  replied  the  old  one.  with  a  cool,  matter- 
of-fact  indifference,  as  much  as  to  say  that  he  was  keep- 
ing as  near  the  truth  as  possible. 

I  was  an  attentive  listener  to  this  conversation,  and 
could  not  but  remark  the  singular  expression  on  the 


INCREDULITY    OP    A   YOUNGSTEH.  77 

countenance  of  the  young  man.  At  first,  he  partially 
closed  his  left  eye,  and  opening  his  right  to  its  utmost 
width,  gazed  intently  in  the  face  of  the  old  hunter  with 
a  look  half  comic,  half  incredulous.  Then,  as  if  think- 
ing he  might  not  have  fully  understood  the  answer  to 
his  question,  he  turned  his  head  to  one  side,  somewhat 
after  the  manner  of  a  hog  in  an  oak  grove  listening  for 
the  fall  of  an  acorn,  and  curving  his  left  hand  into  the 
form  of  a  half-moon  and  placing  it  behind  his  ear,  so  as 
to  be  certain  of  hearing  every  word,  he  again  address- 
ed his  older  and  more  experienced  friend  with  "  Per- 
haps I  mistook  your  answer — what  number  of  buffalo 
did  you  say  you  had  seen  at  one  time  ?" 

"  Between  two  and  three  million  !"  repeated  the  old 
one,  with  a  countenance  as  immovable  as  though  it  had 
been  made  of  cast  iron. 

"  Y-e-s,"  drawled  the  youngster,  with  that  peculiar 
tone  and  expression  which  signify  that  one  neither  be- 
lieves nor  disbelieves  a  story,  or  in  other  words,  intima- 
ting that  while  he  did  not  wish  the  old  campaigner  to 
think  he  altogether  discredited  the  number,  he  was  at 
the  same  time  anxious  to  avoid  being  considered  over 
credulous  by  entirely  swallowing  a  story  which  might 
possibly  be  intended  as  a  quiz.  As  for  myself.  I  did 
not  believe  a  word  the  old  hunter  said,  but  rather 
thought  he  was  indulging  an  appetite  for  which  all  of 
his  class  are  notorious,  that  of  "  stretching"  their  stories 
far  beyond  the  line  between  the  probable  and  incred- 
ible. Since  then,  however — in  fact  the  very  next  day 
—I  "  saw  sights"  which  induced  me  to  alter  my  mind, 
and  to  give  the  aged  borderer  more  credit  for  keeping 
within  the  bounds  of  probability  than  I  was  at  first 
willing  to  accord  him.  I  do  not  say  that  I  have  seen 
"  between  two  and  three  million"  at  the  same  time  ;  but 
G2 


78  METHODS    OF    HUNTING    BUFFALO. 

I  have  stood  upon  a  high  roll  of  the  prairie,  with  neither 
tree  nor  bush  to  obstruct  the  vision  in  any  direction, 
and  seen  these  animals  grazing  upon  the  plain  and  dark- 
ening it  at  every  point.  There  are  perhaps  larger  herds 
of  buffalo  at  present  in  northern  Texas  than  anywhere 
else  on  the  western  prairies,  their  most  formidable  ene- 
mies, the  Indians,  not  ranging  so  low  down  in  large 
parties,  on  account  of  the  whites ;  but  I  was  told  that 
every  year  their  numbers  were  gradually  decreasing, 
and  their  range,  owing  to  the  approach  of  white  settlers 
from  the  east  and  south,  becoming  more  and  more  cir- 
cumscribed. It  would  seem  almost  impossible,  espe- 
cially to  one  who  has  seen  them,  numerous  as  the  sands 
of  the  seashore,  on  their  immense  natural  pastures,  that 
the  race  can  ever  become  extinct ;  but  when  he  re- 
flects upon  the  rapid  strides  civilization  is  making  west- 
ward upon  the  domain  of  the  buffalo,  he  is  brought  to 
feel  that  the  noble  race  will  soon  be  known  only  as  a 
thing  of  the  past. 

The  whites  have  two  ways  of  hunting  these  animals. 
One  is  to  creep  up  within  a  short  distance,  and  shoot 
them  with  a  rifle  carrying  a  heavy  ball,  or  with  a  mus- 
ket— a  mode  of  hunting  seldom  resorted  to  except  by 
those  who  are  in  want  of  meat.  The  other  way  is  to 
sally  out  after  them  on  horseback,  armed  with  heavy 
holster-pistols,  run  alongside,  while  under  full  speed, 
and  shoot  from  the  saddle.  Of  all  hunting  in  the  world 
this  is  probably  the  most  exciting,  at  the  same  time  in- 
volving the  sportsman  in  no  little  danger.  The  horse 
that  has  been  trained  to  it  soon  gets  as  fond  of  the  sport 
as  his  master,  will  run  directly  up  within  three  or  four 
yards  of  the  immense  animal,  and  is  always  ready  to 
sheer  off  and  get  out  of  the  way  in  case  the  buffalo 
shows  a  disposition  to  fight.  When  the  hunter  wants 


BUFFALO    ON    ALL    SIDES.  79 

meat  he  rides  in  among  the  animals,  and  singles  out  a 
fat  cow  or  young  bull,  which  he  marks  for  his  own — if 
he  is  merely  hunting  for  the  sport,  or  for  "  grandeur" 
as  it  is  called  in  the  West,  he  attacks  the  oldest  and 
largest  bull  he  can  find,  and  continues  to  blaze  away  at 
him  with  his  pistols  until  he  brings  him  down.  He 
may  possibly  secure  the  tongue  of  the  animal — the  car- 
cass is  soon  sought  and  preyed  upon  by  the  legion  of 
buzzards  which  are  ever  on  the  scent. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  June  24th  we  left  our  en- 
campment on  Deep  Creek,  intending  to  reach  Little 
River  before  night.  We  had  travelled  but  a  few  miles 
before  the  cheering  cry  of  "  Buffalo  !  buffalo  !"  was 
heard  along  the  line.  Directly  ahead,  on  the  right  and 
left  of  our  road,  innumerable  small  black  objects  could 
be  seen,  more  resembling  stumps  than  aught  else.  As 
we  slowly  approached  them,  the  objects  became  more 
distinct,  gave  signs  of  life,  and  appeared  to  be  slowly 
moving  about  on  the  interminable  prairie.  When  with- 
in half  a  mile  it  was  evident,  even  to  those  who  had 
only  seen  badly-executed  woodcuts  of  the  animal  in 
"  picture-books,"  that  they  were  buffalo,  spread  out  over 
the  immense  space,  and  in  countless  numbers. 

Notwithstanding  orders  had  been  given  the  volun- 
teers not  to  break  their  double-file  ranks,  nothing  could 
restrain  the  youngsters  from  leaving  the  command  and 
sharing  in  the  exciting  chase.  The  merchants,  and 
others  not  attached  to  the  military,  were  at  perfect  lib- 
erty to  go  when  and  where  it  might  please  them,  as  a 
matter  of  course.  We  were  soon  surrounded  by  buffalo, 
and  every  two  minutes  a  Texan  malecontent  would 
leave  the  ranks  at  full  gallop,  and  dash  off  after  some 
huge  animal,  which  chance,  or  a  more  clumsy  gait,  had 
left  behind  his  fellows.  Never  have  I  beheld  a  scene 


80  GREAT    EXCITEMENT. 

so  full  of  excitement.  Such  of  the  command  as  did  not 
join  in  the  hunt  continued  steadily  along,  myself  and 
Mr.  Navarro,  in  our  Jersey  carry-all,  keeping  in  line 
with .  them,  while  all  around  us  was  hurry-scurry  and 
confusion.  We  had  not  advanced  a  mile,  after  reach- 
ing the  outposts  of  the  immense  herd,  before  we  were 
in  their  midst,  seeing  nothing  in  any  direction  save  the 
immense  animals  speeding  along  at  a  heavy,  lumber- 
ing gallop,  the  larger  ones  more  resembling  loads  of 
hay  in  motion  than  anything  else  I  can  liken  them  to. 
In  the  distance,  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  they  were 
seen  quietly  feeding  upon  the  short  prairie  grass,  and 
apparently  unconscious  of  the  wild  riot  and  danger  so 
near  at  hand. 

Unable  to  mount  a  horse,  I  could  not  join  the  exciting 
chase  ;  yet  I  could  plainly  see  and  enjoy  the  animated 
scene.  At  times,  I  could  discern  one  of  our  men,  ap- 
parently hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  the  frightened  and 
infuriated  animals,  and  running  the  greatest  risk  of  be- 
ing run  over  and  trampled  to  the  earth.  Anon,  the 
smoke  of  a  pistol  would  rise,  followed  quickly  by  the 
report,  and  then  succeeded  a  general  and  confused  scat- 
tering. Perchance  a  bull — for  the  "  green-horns"  gen- 
erally select  the  largest  of  the  herd  as  affording  a  better 
mark — would  be  seen  to  totter,  his  tail  lashing  the  air 
in  furious  circles,  and  then  to  tumble  headlong  to  the 
earth ;  at  another  time,  one  of  the  animals,  wounded 
and  rendered  furious  by  pain,  would  rush  blindly  and 
madly  at  his  pursuer.  The  largest  number  of  horses 
were  entirely  unused  to  the  sport,  and  "  fought  shy"  of 
the  unsightly  animals  ;  others,  again,  had  been  regular- 
ly trained,  and  would  eagerly  carry  their  riders  up  to 
the  buffalo,  and  allow  them  to  "  bang  and  blaze"  away, 
pistol  after  pistol,  without  starting,  or  even  moving  a 


A    REGULAR    MADCAP.  81 

muscle.    Such  is  a  faint  description  of  the  stirring  scenes 
I  saw  around  me  on  that  day's  travel. 

Among  the  merchants  was  a  wild,  frolicking  Irishman, 
named  Fitzgerald,  one  of  the  best  fellows  that  ever  the 
sun  shone  upon.  Fitz,  as  he  was  universally  called, 
was  descended  from  one  of  the  best  families  in  Ireland, 
nearly  every  member  of  which  has  been  distinguished 
as  an  officer  in  the  British  service.  His  mother  was  a 
daughter  of  the  celebrated  Archibald  Hamilton  Rowan, 
who  acted  so  conspicuous  a  part  in  the  Irish  rebellion 
of  '98,  and  one  of  his  uncles,  a  major-general  in  the 
English  army,  has  recently  returned  to  England  from 
Bombay,  where  he  was  governor.  As  several  of  Fitz- 
gerald's brothers  held  commissions  in  the  British  ser- 
vice, his  family  thought  it  expedient  to  make  a  clergy- 
man of  him,  although  nature  had  intended  him  for  any- 
thing but  that.  To  carry  out  their  plans  successfully 
they  sent  him,  when  only  some  eight  years  of  age,  to  a 
school  near  Boulogne,  in  France.  There  he  learned 
the  usual  amount  of  Greek,  Latin,  and  Hebrew,  and, 
according  to  his  own  statements,  an  extra  amount  of 
mischievous  practices  generally.  At  the  age  of  eigh- 
teen he  returned  to  Ireland,  and  on  his  peremptorily  re- 
fusing to  take  holy  orders  his  father  ordered  him  to 
Jamaica,  to  fill  a  lucrative  station  he  had  procured  for 
him  in  the  customs.  He  set  off  for  that  island,  but  on 
getting  as  far  as  London,  he  saw  the  walls  covered  with 
handbills  calling  upon  volunteers  for  General  Evans's 
Legion,  then  about  to  embark  for  Spain  to  the  assist- 
ance of  Isabella.  Here  was  just  the  thing  that  suited 
Fitzgerald's  wild  temperament  and  ardent  impulses,  and 
to  enlist,  leaving  the  customs  at  Jamaica  to  regulate 
themselves,  was  his  first  movement.  Arrived  in  Spain, 
he  was  promoted,  step  by  step,  for  his  gallant  conduct, 


82  AN  ADVENTUROUS  WANDERER. 

and  finally,  for  skilfully  and  successfully  leading  a  for- 
lorn hope,  received  a  captain's  commission,  and  was  also 
created  a  knight  of  the  Order  of  St.  Ferdinand.  The 
return  of  the  Legion  to  England  left  Fitz  without  em- 
ployment ;  but  hearing  that  he  could  obtain  a  commis- 
sion in  the  Persian  army,  he  pushed  for  that  country  to 
join  the  service.  Finding,  on  reaching  his  new  and  sin- 
gular destination,  that  there  was  little  fighting  and  less 
pay,  he  returned  to  England.  He  next  visited  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  either  with  or  in  search  of  his  father,  and 
from  that  point  went  to  Van  Diemen's  Land  and  the 
parts  adjacent.  Thence  he  returned  to  England,  taking 
Brazil  in  his  route.  A  life  of  inactivity  he  could  not 
endure  ;  so  hearing  that  there  was  not  only  fun  but 
fighting  in  Texas,  he  embarked  for  that  Republic  by 
way  of  New-Orleans.  We  next  hear  of  him  selling 
dry  goods  at  San  Antonio  de  Bexar.  This  business, 
however,  did  not  prevent  him  from  joining  the  different 
expeditions  against  Mexicans  and  Indians  that  were 
continually  fitted  out  at  that  place,  and  in  this  way  he 
became  enamoured  of  a  prairie  life — a  feeling  which  in- 
duced him  to  join  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition.  Educated 
in  France,  he  spoke  the  French  language,  and  his  three 
years'  sojourn  in  Spain  had  given  him  a  smattering  of 
Spanish — enough,  at  all  events,  to  carry  on  an  ordinary 
conversation. 

Always  willing,  ready,  and  among  the  first  to  enter 
into  any  madcap,  daring,  or  break-neck  scrape,  as  a 
matter  of  course  Fitz  led  off  the  chase  after  the  buffalo. 
He  was  mounted  on  a  game  and  untiring  Mexican  pony, 
loaded  down  with  saddlebags,  water-gourd,  blankets, 
and  the  miscellaneous  equipage  which  constitutes  the 
fit-out  of  a  campaigner ;  but  all  this  did  not  deter  him 
from  starting  off  at  once.  Away  he  went  in  neck-or- 


HUNTING    AT   LEISURE.  83 

nothing  style,  riding  up  to  the  first  buffalo  he  met,  and 
banging  away  with  his  pistols  as  fast  as  he  could 
load  and  fire.  In  all  his  wanderings  he  had  never  met 
with  buffalo  before,  and  so  exciting  was  the  dangerous 
sport  of  riding  among  them  that  he  could  not  command 
himself.  In  the  mad  chase  he  lost  first  his  hat,  then  his 
blanket,  and  finally  his  saddlebags  and  water-gourd  ; 
but  these  were  mere  trifles  when  such  game  was  in 
sight,  and  as  Fitz  never  stopped  to  pick  them  up,  they 
are  probably  now  lying  on  the  prairie  in  the  exact  places 
where  he  dropped  them, 

My  friend  Falconer,  too,  was  seized  with  a  fit  of  ex- 
citement. His  horse,  however,  unlike  that  of  Fitzger- 
ald, was  a  sedate,  quiet,  slow-and-easy  kind  of  animal, 
holding  a  gallop  or  canter  in  such  special  abhorrence 
that  neither  whip  nor  spur  could  induce  him  to  indulge 
in  either.  Still  Falconer  must  needs  have  a  trot  after 
the  buffalo,  as  he  could  not  chase  them  in  a  gallop ;  and 
it  was  droll  enough  to  see  a  gentleman,  who  had  started 
upon  the  expedition  in  search  of  strange  weeds,  stones, 
and  the  picturesque,  now  jogging  along  after  buffalo, 
with  a  glass  raised  to  his  right  eye.  As  he  was  armed 
only  with  a  double-barrelled  gun,  loaded,  probably,  with 
bird  shot,  he  did  not  essay  the  killing  of  any  of  the  huge 
monsters  by  which  he  was  at  times  surrounded. 

The  number  of  buffalo  killed  during  the  day,  in  our 
immediate  vicinity,  was  twenty-eight ;  the  number  of 
prisoners  taken  in  the  shape  of  young  calves,  some  ten 
or  twelve.  As  to  getting  the  number  of  wounded,  that 
would  have  been  impossible. 

In  the  afternoon  we  reached  Little  River,  where  we 
encamped  for  the  night,  and  where  we  had  a  feast  of 
choice  buffalo  meat,  tongue,  and  also  the  marrow  bones 
of  that  animal ;  some  of  the  calves  also  were  killed,  and 


84  BUFFALO    CALVES. 

furnished  us  with  delicious  veal.  The  simple  things 
followed  our  men  into  camp  without  the  least  trouble. 
It  was  only  necessary  to  blind  their  eyes  with  the  hands 
for  a  moment,  push  their  noses  to  the  ground,  and  hold 
them  in  that  position  until  their  dams  were  out  of  sight. 
On  raising  their  heads  they  would  stare  about,  and  the 
first  object  that  caught  their  gaze,  whether  man  or 
horse,  they  would  follow  like  dogs.  Thus  ended  our 
first  day  among  the  immense  buffalo  herds  of  the  West- 
ern Prairies. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Sending  back  for  more  Cattle.— Rations  of  Beef  for  each  Man.— Idle  Hours 
in  Camp. — Annoying  Insects. — ISight  Alarms. — Death  of  LockriJge. — A 
Dutchman  shot  at. — Improvident  Waste  of  Provisions. — Game  in  our  Vi- 
cinity.— Sickness  of  General  McLeod  — Once  more  on  the  Road. — Bird's 
Battle-ground. — A  Visit  from  Mustangs. — The  "White  Sleed  of  the  Prai- 
ries."— Stories  in  relation  to  this  Horse. — Cow  Creek. — Plenty  of  Buffalo. 
— Repairing  Wagons. — Profanity  of  the  Teamsters. — Out  of  Water. — 
Fourth  of  July  on  the  Prairies. — Celebration  among  the  Clouds. — A 
troublesome  Visiter. — Rattlesnakes  and  Tarantulas. — Death  of  Flint. — 
Crossing  the  Bosque. — The  Antelope,  or  Mountain  Goat. — Simplicity  of 
this  Animal— Another  Branch  of  the  Bosque.— Difficulty  of  crossing. — 
More  Swearing. — A  Stampede  !— Singular  Effect  of  Fright  upon  Horses 
and  Oxen. — Falconer's  Horse  at  his  Eccentricities. — A  Private  Stampede. 
— Laughable  Antics. — Falconer's  Philosophy 

BEFORE  the  main  body  of  the  expedition  left  Austin, 
in  May,  it  was  thought  by  those  most  familiar  with  the 
subject  that  the  journey  to  Santa  Fe  would  not  occupy 
more  than  six  weeks,  or  two  months  at  the  very  farthest, 
and  a  supply  of  beef  on  the  hoof  was  purchased,  amply 
sufficient  for  that  length  of  time.  On  arriving  at  Little 
River,  our  commissary  stated  that  it  would  be  impru- 


ANOTHER    DELAY.  85 

dent  to  go  farther  without  sending  back  for  more  beeves, 
as  in  the  long  delay  on  the  Brushy  the  volunteers  had 
consumed  a  large  portion  of  those  originally  furnished. 
Had  the  expedition  started  at  the  time  originally  pro- 
posed, there  would  have  been  no  necessity  for  a  fresh 
supply ;  but  inasmuch  as  it  had  been  delayed  three 
weeks,  the  wants  of  the  men,  admitting  that  the  journey 
would  occupy  two  months,  would  require  some  thirty 
head  of  cattle  more.  The  regular  ration  to  each  per- 
son was  three  pounds  of  beef  a  day,  a  quantity  amply 
sufficient  for  an  ordinary  man  even  when  he  has  no 
breadstufFs  or  vegetables,  as  was  our  case.  In  addition 
to  the  beef,  coffee  enough  to  give  each  man  two  pints  a 
day,  with  the  needful  sugar,  was  served  out.  Instead 
of  breadstuffs,  for  which  transportation  could  not  be 
provided,  a  quantity  of  tobacco  was  served  to  each 
man. 

The  sending  back  to  the  settlements  for  an  additional 
number  of  beeves  occasioned  a  delay  of  five  days,  the 
time  being  passed  in  fishing  and  hunting  by  some, 
lounging  and  sleeping  by  others,  and  heavily  enough 
by  all ;  for  the  desire  to  be  on  the  move  was  a  serious 
drawback  upon  the  enjoyments  even  of  those  most  fond 
of  buffalo  hunting.  The  place  where  we  encamped 
abounded  with  a  small  insect  called,  I  believe,  the  seed 
tick,  which  penetrates  under  the  skin  in  great  numbers, 
raises  small  sores  or  pimples,  and  causes  a  burning  and 
continual  itching.  I  was  completely  covered,  or  rather 
filled,  with  these  annoying  visitors,  and  lost  many  an 
hour's  sleep  in  consequence. 

We  had  two  alarms  the  second  night  we  passed  on 
Little  River.  The  first  was  about  ten  o'clock,  and  was 
caused  by  the  sharp  report  of  a  rifle  directly  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  camp.  A  circumstance  so  unusual  started 

VOL.  L— H 


86  NIGHT   ALARMS. 

every  man  to  his  feet,  and  the  alarm  was  far  from  in- 
considerable until  it  was  ascertained  that  the  young 
man  Lockridge,  of  whom  I  have  spoken  elsewhere,  had 
shot  himself.  Some  two  hours  after,  the  camp  was  a 
second  time  thrown  into  excitement  by  the  startling 
"  Who  goes  there  ?"  of  one  of  the  guard,  followed  by 
the  heavy  report  of  a  musket.  The  hands  of  every 
man  were  instantly  upon  his  gun,  and  every  preparation 
was  made  to  resist  an  attack  from  Indians,  for  in  the 
hurry  and  alarm  we  could  think  of  nothing  else ;  but  on 
inquiring  into  the  affair  it  was  ascertained  that  an  hon- 
est Dutchman,  a  servant  of  Colonel  Cooke,  was  return- 
ing late  into  camp,  with  a  horse  he  had  found  after  a 
long  search,  and  that  not  answering  the  sentinel  prompt- 
ly, he  had  been  fired  upon.  Fortunately  he  was  un- 
touched, although  badly  frightened.  This  second  alarm 
satisfactorily  explained,  we  again  returned  to  our  blank- 
ets, and  the  rest  of  the  night  was  passed  in  quiet  and 
sleep. 

While  encamped  upon  Little  River,  and  I  may  say 
during  the  whole  of  the  time  we  were  in  the  buffalo  and 
game  country,  there  was  a  most  improvident  waste  of 
beef,  the  regular  rations  being  served  out  to  each  man. 
Those  who  could  obtain  choice  portions  of  the  buffalo 
and  deer,  which  were  now  killed  in  immense  numbers, 
of  course  threw  away  the  coarse  and  tougher  parts  of 
the  beef  given  them.  These,  however,  soon  found  cus- 
tomers ;  for  clouds  of  buzzards  were  immediately  hov- 
ering over  and  lighting  within  the  lines,  playing  the 
part  of  most  excellent  scavengers.  Could  we  but  have 
anticipated  the  horrible  sufferings  we  were  then  bring- 
ing upon  our  heads,  or  rather  stomachs,  by  this  prodi- 
gality ;  had  we  thought  the  time  was  near  at  hand  when 
the  poorest  morsels  we  were  throwing  away  so  lavish- 


RENEWAL    OF    THE    MARCH.  87 

ly  would  be  absolutely  necessary  to  sustain  life,  a  more 
provident  course  would  have  been  adopted.  Some  of 
the  old  campaigners  spoke  of  this  waste  at  the  time,  re- 
marking that  the  buzzards  were  fattening  upon  meat  of 
which  we  should  all  feel  the  want  before  we  got  to  our 
journey's  end  ;  but  by  far  the  greater  portion  of  us  were 
inexperienced,  and  went  on  the  principle  of  taking  spe- 
cial good  care  of  ourselves  to-day  and  letting  to-mor- 
row look  out  for  itself.  We  gained  experience  and 
wisdom  afterward,  but  we  bought  it  at  an  enormous 
price. 

The  place  where  we  encamped  on  Little  River  was 
the  site  of  an  old  picket  fort,  garrisoned,  some  years  pre- 
vious, by  a  detachment  of  Texan  soldiers,  who  were 
stationed  there  to  keep  a  look-out  for  Indians.  The  lo- 
cation is  one  of  exceeding  loveliness,  healthy,  and  com- 
bining every  advantage  for  a  flourishing  settlement.  A 
growth  of  heavy  timber,  some  two  miles  in  width, 
covers  the  fertile  bottom,  while  the  rich  prairies  afford 
the  best  of  grazing  for  the  immense  herds  of  buffalo  and 
deer  always  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity.  Bears  and 
Mexican  hogs,  the  latter  a  ferocious  animal,  are  found  in 
great  numbers  in  the  bottoms,  fish  of  different  varieties 
are  caught  in  the  stream,  and  many  of  the  trees  are  fill- 
ed with  delicious  wild  honey. 

While  encamped  at  this  place,  General  McLeod  was 
attacked  with  fever,  and  was  carried  in  a  wagon  to  Bry- 
ant's Station,  some  twenty  miles  to  our  right,  near  the 
Brazos.  Major  Howard  took  the  command  of  the  ex- 
pedition during  his  illness.  On  the  evening  of  the  29th 
of  June  the  order  was  given  for  an  early  march  next 
morning — an  order  received  with  joy  by  all.  The  next 
morning,  therefore,  saw  us  again  on  our  road,  crossing 
prairies  on  which  buffalo  could  be  seen  in  almost  every 


88  WHITE    STEED    OF   THE   PRAIRIES. 

direction.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  the  scene  of 
Bird's  celebrated  battle  with  the  Indians.  With  thirty- 
three  Texans  only  he  fought  some  two  hundred  and 
fifty  Indians  several  hours,  killing  large  numbers  of 
them.  Bird  himself  was  killed,  towards  the  close  of 
the  battle,  which  was  a  drawn  one,  both  parties  retiring 
after  sustaining  great  loss. 

At  sundown  a  drove  of  mustangs,  or  wild  horses  of 
the  prairie,  paid  us  a  flying  visit.  They  were  first  seen 
ascending  a  hill  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  and  as 
they  were  coming  towards  us  were  taken  for  Indians. 
When  seen  on  a  distant  hill,  standing  with  their  raised 
heads  towards  a  person,  and  forming  a  line  as  is  their 
custom,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  take  them  for  any- 
thing but  mounted  men.  Having  satisfied  their  curi- 
osity, they  wheeled  with  almost  the  regularity  of  a  cav- 
alry company  and  galloped  off,  their  long  thick  manes 
waving  in  the  air  and  their  tails  nearly  sweeping  the 
ground.  They  are  beautiful  animals,  always  in  excel- 
lent condition,  and  although  smaller  than  our  American 
horses,  are  still  very  compact,  and  will  bear  much  fa- 
tigue. 

Many  were  the  stories  told  that  night  in  camp,  by 
some  of  the  older  hunters,  of  a  large  white  horse  that 
had  often  been  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Cross  Timbers 
and  near  Red  River.  That  many  of  these  stories,  like 
a  majority  of  those  told  by  gossiping  campaigners,  were 
either  apocryphal  or  marvellously  garnished,  I  have  lit- 
tle doubt ;  but  that  such  a  horse  has  been  seen,  and  that 
he  possesses  wonderful  speed  and  great  powers  of  en- 
durance, there  is  no  reason  to  disbelieve.  As  the  camp 
stories  ran,  he  has  never  been  known  to  gallop  or  trot, 
but  paces  faster  than  any  horse  that  has  been  sent  out 
after  him  can  run ;  and  so  game  and  untiring  is  the 


A    FRUITLESS    CHASE.  89 

"  White  Steed  of  the  Prairies,"  for  he  is  well  known  to 
trappers  and  hunters  by  that  name,  that  he  has  tired 
down  no  less  than  three  race-nags,  sent  expressly  to 
catch  him,  with  a  Mexican  rider  well  trained  to  the  busi- 
ness of  taking  wild  horses.  The  latter  had  nothing  but 
a  lasso  or  lariat  with  him — a  long  rope  made  either  of 
hemp  or  horse  hair,  but  generally  the  latter.  One  end 
of  this  rope  is  made  fast  to  the  pommel  of  the  saddle, 
while  the  other  is  formed  into  a  noose :  the  Mexican 
carries  it  coiled  up  in  the  right  hand,  and  throws  it  with 
astonishing  dexterity  and  precision,  casting  it  directly 
over  the  head,  feet,  or  even  tail  of  the  animal  he  may  be 
pursuing. 

The  Mexican  who  was  sent  out  to  take  the  wild 
steed,  although  he  mounted  a  fresh  horse  as  the  one  he 
was  riding  became  tired,  was  never  near  enough  the 
noble  animal  to  throw  a  slip-noose  over  his  head,  or  even 
to  drive  him  into  a  regular*  gallop.  .  Some  of  the  hunt- 
ers go  so  far  as  to  say  that  the  white  steed  has  been 
known  to  pace  his  mile  in  less  than  two  minutes,  and 
that  he  could  keep  up  this  rate  of  speed  until  he  had 
tired  down  everything  in  pursuit.  Large  sums  had  been 
offered  for  his  capture,  and  the  attempt  had  been  fre- 
quently made  ;  but  he  still  roamed  his  native  prairies  in 
freedom,  solitary  and  alone.*  The  fact  of  his  being  al- 
ways found  with  no  other  horse  in  company  was  ac- 
counted for,  by  an  old  hunter,  on  the  ground  that  he 
was  too  proud  to  be  seen  with  those  of  his  class,  being 
an  animal  far  superior  in  form  and  action  to  any  of  his 
brothers.  This  I  put  down  as  a  rank  embellishment, 

*  Since  my  return,  I  have  been  informed,  by  a  Texan  gentleman,  that  a 
horse  in  many  respects  answering  the  description  of  the  "  White  Steed  of  the 
Prairies"  has  been  caught,  after  a  hard  chase,  between  the  head  waters  of  the 
Trinity  and  Brazos.  He  lived  but  a  short  time,  however,  the  excessive  fa- 
tigue of  the  race  causing  his  death. 

H2 


90  TEAMSTERS     OATHS. 

although  it  is  a  fact  that  the  more  beautiful  and  highly- 
formed  mustangs  are  frequently  seen  alone. 

On  the  1  st  of  July  we  reached  Cow  Creek,  killing 
large  numbers  of  buffalo  during  the  day.  The  2d 
we  halted  to  repair  some  of  the  wagons  which  had 
been  upset  and  injured.  The  gullies  and  creeks  we 
were  compelled  to  cross  were  many  of  them  impassa- 
ble until  much  time  had  been  spent  in  cutting  and  dig- 
ging away  the  steep  and  lofty  banks.  With  all  the  cut- 
ting and  digging,  however,  hardly  a  day  passed  in 
which  we  escaped  an  upset ;  and  then  the  expressions 
made  use  of,  by  the  drivers  and  fatigue-men,  sounded  so 
much  like  swearing  of  the  most  forcible  kind  that  there 
was  no  mistaking  it.  It  appeared  to  be  the  only  study 
of  some  of  our  teamsters  to  invent  the  most  blasphe- 
mous oaths  ;  and  the  cool,  slow,  and  decided  manner  in 
which  these  imprecations  were  uttered  showed  that  they 
wished  all  within  hearing  to' have  the  full  benefit  of  their 
studies.  I  asked  one  of  them,  just  as  he  had  finished  a 
long  and  most  horrid  oath  which  I  would  not  dare  to 
put  on  paper,  why  he  uttered  such  profanities.  His  an- 
swer was,  they  saved  much  whipping,  and  that  his 
oxen  drew  much  better  than  with  the  common  kind  of 
swearing.  Be  this  as  it  may,  I  believe  that  if  the  unfor- 
tunate animals  had  possessed  the  powers  of  understand- 
ing they  would  have  run  away  in  the  middle  of  one  of 
the  long  list  of  blasphemies.  I  have  heard  swearing  in 
many  quarters,  but  for  originality,  deliberate  utterance, 
and  deep  wickedness,  I  have  never  heard  that  of  some 
of  the  drivers  on  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition  equalled. 

Our  route  from  Cow  Creek  led  us  over  high  and  dry 
prairies,  and  after  travelling  some  twenty  miles — a  long 
distance  for  wagons — we  were  finally  obliged  to  en- 
camp without  water.  The  day  had  been  insupportably 


PRAIRIE    THUNDER.  91 

hot,  without  a  cloud,  or  hardly  a  breath  of  air  stirring, 
and  all  the  water  in  our  canteens  was  consumed  before 
noon.  As  a  consequence,  we  suffered  extremely  that 
night ;  and  had  there  been  a  glass  of  water  up  at  auc- 
tion, I  should  certainly  have  bid  high  for  it.  Visions 
of  sherry  cobblers,  soda,  and  other  cooling  drinks  haunt- 
ed me  the  whole  night,  and  when  I  awoke  it  was  to  the 
painful  reality  that  there  was  no  reality  in  my  dreams. 
Since  that  time  I  have  gone  ten  miles  for  a  cup  of  wa- 
ter. 

An  early  start  the  next  morning,  which  was  the  Fourth 
of  July,  enabled  us  to  reach  a  cool  and  delicious  spring 
early  in  the  afternoon,  and  here  we  slaked  our  intoler- 
able thirst.  A  few  seconds  after,  we  had  forgotten 
our  sufferings.  A  man  may  endure  the  most  torturing 
thirst  for  thirty-six  or  forty-eight  hours — thinking  of 
water,  and  nothing  but  water  the  while — but  the  mo- 
ment he  has  reached  it,  and  swallowed  a  sufficiency,  all 
thoughts  of  past  suffering  are  at  once  banished. 

We  had  no  opportunity  of  keeping  the  birthday  of 
American  Independence  as  many  of  us  could  have 
wished ;.  but  the  heavens  got  up  a  private  celebration, 
in  the  shape  of  a  thunder-storm,  and  seldom  have  I 
heard  such  continued,  heavy,  and  rattling  peals.  It  al- 
ways seemed  to  me  that  in  the  early  part  of  summer 
the  thunder  was  louder,  the  lightning  more  vivid,  and 
the  storms  generally  were  more  severe  on  the  prairies 
than  anywhere  else.  They  are  not,  perhaps,  attended 
with  as  much  rain,  but  the  accompaniments  are  alto- 
gether on  a  grander  and  more  magnificent  scale. 

We  had  a  troublesome  and  unwelcome  visiter  in 
camp  on  the  night  of  the  Fourth  of  July.  The  storm 
had  induced  the  mess  to  which  I  was  attached  to  pitch 
a  tent.  The  wet  grass  without  probably  drove  a  prai- 


92  A   RATTLESNAKE. 

rie  rattlesnake  to  more  comfortable  quarters  within  our 
canvass,  the  first  intimation  we  had  of  the  vicinity  of 
his  snakeship  being  his  crawling  over  one  of  us  in  an 
attempt  to  effect  a  lodgment  under  some  of  the  blan- 
kets. A  more  disagreeable  companionship  cannot  well 
be  imagined,  even  if  one  has  his  choice  from  among  all 
living,  moving,  creeping,  flying,  running,  swimming,  and 
crawling  things  ;  and  to  assert  that  any  of  us  felt  per- 
fectly easy  and  at  home  with  such  a  neighbour  among 
us  would  be  saying  what  is  not  true.  For  myself,  fear- 
ing to  move  lest  I  should  molest  the  reptile,  I  rolled 
myself,  head  and  all,  under  my  blanket,  and  lay  per- 
fectly quiet  until  daylight.  Where  the  intruder  went 
no  one  could  tell,  and  we  had  the  very  great  satisfac- 
tion of  seeing  no  more  of  him. 

Very  frequently,  on  the  great  prairies,  a  man  wakes 
up  in  the  morning  and  finds  that  he  has  had  a  rattle- 
snake for  a  sleeping  partner  ;  but  there  is  one  excellent 
trait  in  the  character  of  these  reptiles — they  never  bite 
unless  disturbed,  and  will  get  out  of  the  way  as  soon  as 
possible,  except  in  the  month  of  August,  when  they  are 
said  to  be  blind,  and  will  snap  at  any  and  everything 
they  may  hear  about  them.  The  ordinary  prairie  rat- 
tlesnake is  of  small  size,  seldom  being  seen  over  three 
feet  in  length  ;  but  those  living  in  the  holes  of  the  prai- 
rie dogs,  mention  of  which  I  shall  make  hereafter,  grow 
to  an  immense  magnitude.  The  former,  I  believe,  are 
considered  not  only  the  most  vicious,  but  the  most 
poisonous. 

In  addition  to  the  rattlesnake,  the  tarantula  is  fre- 
quently met  with  on  the  Texan  prairies,  is  also  often 
found  under  the  blanket  of  the  campaigner,  and  is  said 
to  be  as  poisonous  as  the  former.  They  are  large, 
black,  venomous-looking  insects,  with  bodies  about  the 


TARANTULAS.  93 

size  of  a  dove's  egg,  although  their  long  and  strong 
legs  make  them  appear  much  larger.  When  attacked 
with  a  stick,  they  will  rear  up  on  their  hind  legs  and 
attempt  to  bite,  and  are  extremely  ferocious  in  every 
respect.  The  least  scratch  from  their  long  fangs 
throws  a  person  into  convulsions,  and  will  produce 
death  unless  immediate  remedies  can  be  procured. 
The  ballet  of  Le  Tarentvle,  in  which  Elssler  gained  so 
much  applause,  is  a  beautiful  creation,  although  found- 
ed upon  an  idle  superstition  of  the  Italians.  The  bite 
of  the  real  tarantula  drives  a  person  to  anything  but 
dancing,  subjecting  him  rather  to  fits  and  strong  ner- 
vous excitement.  The  opinion  prevails,  among  the  igno- 
rant and  superstitious  of  many  countries,  that  music 
will  cure  the  individual  who  has  been  bitten  by  one  of 
these  venomous  insects.  What  effect  it  might  have  in 
soothing  the  nervous  system  I  am  unable  to  say  ;  but 
were  I  bitten  by  a  tarantula  I  should  certainly  prefer 
hartshorn,  taken  inwardly  and  outwardly,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  procuring  a  safe  and  speedy  cure. 

It  is  deemed  an  easy  matter  to  keep  the  rattlesnake 
from  sharing  your  bed  while  sleeping  upon  the  prairies. 
It  is  said  that  they  will  never  cross  a  hair  lariat,  so  that 
by  circumscribing  the  ground  you  occupy  with  one  of 
these  instruments,  you  enjoy  an  exemption  from  their 
more  sociable  visits ;  but  this  is  no  guard  against  the 
poisonous  tarantula.  Few  persons,  however,  are  bit- 
ten by  either,  not  an  instance  occurring  on  the  route, 
although  we  saw  great  numbers  of  each. 

On  awaking  the  next  morning,  after  the  adventure 
with  the  rattlesnake,  we  found  that  there  had  been  an- 
other visitor  in  camp,  and  one  from  whose  insatiate 
fangs  there  is  no  escape.  Death  had  carried  off  a  poor 
fellow  named  Flint.  He  had  eaten  freely  of  unripe 


94  THE  ANTELOPE. 

grapes  or  berries  during  the  previous  day,  which 
brought  on  a  colic  that  no  medicine  could  reach.  He 
was  buried  at  an  early  hour,  and  a  volley  was  fired 
over  his  grave,  after  which  the  march  was  resumed. 

We  had  already,  and  with  no  inconsiderable  diffi- 
culty, crossed  one  branch  of  the  Bosque,  and  on  the 
evening  of  the  5th  arrived  at  another  fork  of  the  same 
stream,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  It  abounds 
with  excellent  trout  and  soft-shell  turtle.  This  day,  for 
the  first  time,  we  saw  the  antelope,  or  mountain  goat, 
an  animal  somewhat  resembling  both  the  deer  and  the 
goat,  but  with  flesh  preferable  to  that  of  either.  It 
runs  with  great  speed,  and  has  a  stride  like  a  horse. 
How  fast  the  animal  can  run  when  in  possession  of 
four  legs  is  a  question  I  am  at  a  loss  to  answer,  but 
one  with  a  fore  leg  broken  by  a  rifle  ball  made  out  to 
escape  from  one  of  our  best  horses  after  a  long  chase. 
On  the  table-lands  at  the  foot  of  the  Rocky  Mountains 
they  are  met  with  in  great  numbers,  and  many  are 
seen  on  the  Upper  Brazos  and  Colorado.  Although  a 
shy,  they  are  still  a  very  inquisitive  animal,  and  are 
frequently  lured  within  gunshot  by  simply  hanging  a 
red  handkerchief  upon  a  ramrod  or  stick,  and  moving 
it  aloft.  The  hunter  keeps  his  body  out  of  sight  as 
much  as  possible,  when  the  antelope,  seeing  nothing 
but  the  handkerchief,  approaches,  with  head  erect  and 
by  slow  degrees,  until  within  rifle-shot,  and  then  pays 
the  penalty  of  its  curiosity  with  its  life. 

The  early  part  of  the  6th  of  July  was  spent  in  cutting 
a  road  through  the  thick  belt  of  wood  which  skirts  ei- 
ther side  of  the  main  branch  of  the  Bosque,  and  in  par- 
tially digging  away  the  high,  steep  banks  of  the  stream. 
The  labour  of  crossing  the  river  was  incredible.  In 
descending  the  abrupt  banks  which  led  to  the  channel, 


A   STAMPEDE.  95 

it  was  necessary,  not  only  to  lock  the  wheels,  but  to 
hold  back  the  wagons  with  ropes  to  prevent  them  from 
pitching  down,  "  head  first"  as  it  were ;  the  greatest 
difficulty,  however,  was  in  ascending  on  the  other  side. 
The  ascent  was  nearly  perpendicular  and  some  forty 
feet  high,  with  no  better  footing  than  a  deep  sand. 
Some  twenty  yoke  of  oxen  would  in  the  first  place  be 
hitched  to  a  wagon ;  then  ropes  would  be  attached 
wherever  there  was  a  place  to  make  them  fast,  manned 
by  about  fifty  or  sixty  of  the  fatigue  party ;  finally,  all 
the  drivers  would  be  called  in  requisition,  and  when  all 
was  ready  for  a  start  such  a  jumping,  whipping,  crack- 
ing, yelling,  pulling,  cursing  and  swearing  would  arise 
as  to  set  all  description  at  defiance.  Bedlam  itself,  with 
five  hundred  Indians  as  an  accompaniment,  seemed  let 
loose  in  a  body.  I  will  not  pretend  to  say  that  had  Bo- 
naparte met  with  the  Bosque  while  crossing  the  Alps 
he  would  have  been  compelled  to  return ;  but  he  would 
have  found  a  serious  detention  at  all  events.  Yet  diffi- 
cult as  was  the  crossing,  everything  was  safely  over 
before  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  and  we  still  made  a 
march  of  a  few  miles  to  a  spring  a  short  distance  from 
the  River  Brazos.  At  this  camp  we  were  favoured  for 
the  first  time  with  the  magnificent  but  much-dreaded 
sight  of  a  stampede  among  our  horses. 

As  there  was  no  wood  near  our  camping-ground, 
some  half  a  dozen  men  pushed  on  to  a  small  piece  of 
timber  in  search  of  it.  One  of  them  had  a  wild,  half- 
broken,  Mexican  horse,  naturally  vicious  and  with  dif- 
ficulty mastered.  His  rider  found  a  small,  dry  tree,  cut 
it  down  with  a  hatchet,  and  very  imprudently  made  it 
fast  to  his  horse's  tail  by  means  of  a  rope.  The  animal 
took  it  unkindly  from  the  first,  and  dragged  his  strange 
load  with  evident  symptoms  of  fright ;  but  when  with- 


96  TERRIFIED    OXEN. 

in  a  few  hundred  yards  of  camp  he  commenced  pitch- 
ing, and  finally  set  off  at  a  gallop  with  the  cause  of  all 
his  uneasiness  and  fear  still  fast  to  his  tail.  His  course 
was  directly  for  the  camp,  and  as  he  sped  along  the 
prairie  it  was  soon  evident  that  several  of  our  horses 
were  stricken  with  a  panic  at  his  approach.  At  first 
they  would  prick  up  their  ears,  snort,  and  trot  majesti- 
cally about  in  circles  ;  then  they  would  dash  off  at  the 
top  of  their  speed,  and  no  human  power  could  arrest 
their  mad  career. 

"  A  stampede  /"  shouted  some  of  the  old  campaign- 
ers, jumping  from  the  ground  and  running  towards  their 
frightened  animals  ;  "  a  stampede !  look  out  for  your 
horses,  or  you'll  never  see  them  again  !"  was  heard  on 
every  side.  Fortunately  for  us,  the  more  intractable 
horses  had  been  not  only  staked,  but  hobbled  before  the 
panic  became  general,  and  were  secured  with  little  diffi- 
culty, else  we  might  have  lost  half  of  them  irretrievably. 

It  is  singular,  the  effect  that  sudden  fright  has,  not 
only  upon  horses,  but  oxen,  on  the  prairies.  The  latter 
will,  perhaps,  run  longer  and  farther  than  the  former, 
and  although  not  as  difficult  to  "head,"  because  they 
cannot  run  so  fast,  their  onward  course  it  is  impossible 
to  stay.  Oxen,  so  I  was  informed,  have  been  known  to 
run  forty  miles  without  once  stopping  to  look  back ; 
and  when  they  did  finally  hold  up,  it  was  simply  because 
exhausted  nature  would  allow  them  to  go  no  farther. 
Not  one  in  fifty  of  them  had  seen  the  least  cause  for 
fear,  but  each  ran  simply  because  his  neighbour  did. 
Frequent  instances  have  occurred  wThere  some  worth- 
less but  skittish  horse  has  caused  the  loss  of  hundreds  of 
valuable  animals.  In  the  instance  I  have  above  alluded 
to,  we  did  not  lose  one,  but  on  a  subsequent  occasion, 
no  less  than  eighty-seven  were  irrecoverably  lost  by 
one  stampede. 


HORSES    IN    THE    FLIGHT    OF    TERROR.  97 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  of  the  scene  when 
a  large  cavallada,  or  drove  of  horses,  takes  a  "  scare." 
Old,  weather-beaten,  time-worn,  and  broken-down  steeds 
— horses  that  have  nearly  given  out  from  hard  work 
and  old  age — will  at  once  be  transformed  into  wild  and 
prancing  colts.  When  first  seized  with  that  indescri- 
bable terror  which  induces  them  to  fly,  they  seem  to 
have  been  suddenly  endowed  with  all  the  attributes  of 
their  original  wild  nature.  With  heads  erect,  tails  and 
manes  streaming  in  air,  eyes  lit  up  and  darting  beams 
of  fright,  old  and  jaded  hacks  will  be  seen  prancing  and 
careering  about  with  all  the  buoyancy  of  action  which 
characterizes  the  antics  of  young  colts  ;  then  some  one 
of  the  drove,  more  frightened  than  the  rest,  will  dash 
off  in  a  straight  line,  the  rest  scampering  after  him,  and 
apparently  gaining  fresh  fears  at  every  jump.  The 
throng  will  then  sweep  along  the  plain  with  a  noise 
which  may  be  likened  to  something  between  a  tornado 
and  an  earthquake,  and  as  well  might  feeble  man  at- 
tempt to  arrest  either  of  the  latter. 

Were  the  earth  rending  and  cleaving  beneath  their 
feet,  horses,  when  under  the  terrifying  influence  of  a 
stampede,  could  not  bound  away  with  greater  velocity 
or  more  majestic  beauty  of  movement.  I  have  seen 
many  an  interesting  race,  but  never  anything  half  so  ex- 
citing as  the  flight  of  a  drove  of  frightened  horses.  The 
spectator,  who  may  possibly  have  a  nag  among  them 
which  he  has  been  unable  to  get  into  a  canter  by  dint 
of  spur  and  W7hip,  sees  his  property  fairly  flying  away 
at  a  pace  that  a  thorough-bred  racer  might  envy.  Bet- 
ter "  time,"  to  all  appearance,  he  has  never  seen  made, 
and  were  it  not  that  he  himself  is  as  much  astounded  as 
the  horses,  there  might  be  very  pretty  betting  upon  the 
race. 

VOL.  L— I 


98  FALCONER'S  NAG. 

On  one  occasion,  when  a  closely-hobbled  horse  was 
rushing  madly  along  the  prairie  under  the  influence  of 
fright,  his  owner  coolly  remarked,  "I  wish  I  could 
make  that  critter  go  as  fast  on  my  own  account  with- 
out hobbles,  as  he  can  on  his  own  with  them — I'd  gam- 
ble on  him  sure"  And  so  it  is.  No  simile  can  give 
the  reader  a  fair  conception  of  the  grandeur  of  the  spec- 
tacle, and  the  most  graphic  arrangement  of  words  must 
fall  far  short  in  describing  the  startling  and  imposing 
effect  of  a  regular  stampede  ! 

While  upon  this  subject,  I  should  not,  perhaps,  neg- 
lect to  notice  one  of  the  little  private  stampedes  my 
friend  Falconer's  horse  was  in  the  habit  of  occasionally 
getting  up,  principally  on  his  own  individual  account 
and  to  gratify  his  own  peculiar  tastes  and  desires,  en- 
tirely regardless,  all  the  while,  of  his  master's  conveni- 
ence as  well  as  of  the  public  safety. 

He  was  a  short,  thick-set,  scrubby,  wiry  nag,  tough 
as  a  pine  knot,  and  self-willed  as  a  pig.  He  was  more- 
over exceedingly  lazy,  as  well  as  prone  to  have  his  own 
way,  and  take  his  own  jog — preferring  a  walk  or  gen- 
tle trot  to  a  canter ;  and  so  deep-rooted  were  his  preju- 
dices in  favour  of  the  former  methods  of  getting  over  the 
ground,  that  neither  whip  nor  spur  could  drive  him  from 
them.  He  possessed  a  commendable  faculty  of  taking 
most  especial  good  care  of  himself,  which  he  manifested 
by  being  always  found  where  water  was  nearest  and  the 
grass  best,  and  on  the  whole  might  be  termed,  in  the  lan- 
guage of  those  who  consider  themselves  judges  of  horse 
flesh,  a  "  tolerable  chunk  of  a  pony"  for  a  long  journey. 

He  had  one  bad  quality,  however,  which  was  contin- 
ually putting  his  master  to  serious  inconvenience,  and 
on  more  than  one  occasion  came  near  resulting  serious- 
ly to  all.  One  day  we  stopped  to  "  noon"  close  by  a 


A   TOTAL    WRECK.  99 

spring  of  water,  and  had  simply  taken  the  bridles  from 
our  horses  to  give  them  a  chance  to  graze,  when  he 
improved  the  occasion  to  show  off  one  of  his  eccen- 
tricities. Falconer  had  a  way,  as  I  have  before  stated, 
of  packing  all  his  scientific,  cooking,  and  other  instru- 
ments upon  his  horse,  and  on  the  occasion  to  which  I 
have  alluded,  some  one  of  them  chanced  to  chafe  or  gall 
the  pony,  inducing  him  to  give  a  kick  up  with  his  hin- 
der limbs.  The  rattling  of  the  pots  and  pans  started 
him  off  immediately,  and  the  faster  he  ran  the  more 
they  rattled.  We  immediately  secured  our  horses  by 
catching  up  the  lariats,  and  then  watched  the  fanciful 
antics  of  the  animal  that  had  raised  all  the  commotion. 

He  would  run  about  ten  jumps  and  then  stop  and 
kick  up  about  as  many  times  ;  then  he  would  shake 
himself  violently,  and  then  start  off  again  on  a  gallop. 
Every  now  and  then  a  culinary  or  scientific  instrument 
would  be  detached  from  its  fastenings,  when  the  infu- 
riated pony  would  manage  to  give  it  a  kick  before  it 
struck  the  ground  and  send  it  aloft  again.  The  quad- 
rant took  the  direction  towards  the  sun  without  taking 
it ;  the  saucepan  was  kicked  into  a  stew  ;  the  thermom- 
eter was  up  to  100 — inches  above  the  ground,  and  fell 
to — worth  nothing.  To  sum  it  all  up,  what  with  rear- 
ing, pitching,  kicking,  and  galloping  about,  the  pony 
was  soon  rid  of  saddle  and  all  other  encumbrances,  and 
then  went  quietly  to  feeding,  apparently  well  satisfied 
with  all  the  trouble  he  had  given  his  owner. 

The  whole  affair  was  ludicrous  in  the  extreme,  defy- 
ing description.  The  rattling  of  the  tin,  earthen,  and 
other  ware,  as  the  pony  snorted,  kicked,  and  pranced 
about,  made  a  noise  resembling  that  produced  at  a  char- 
ivari. His  antics  were  of  the  most  unseemly  nature, 
too — and  the  cool  philosophy  of  Mr.  Falconer,  as  he 


100  A    LOVELY    VALLEY. 

quietly  followed  in  the  wake  of  the  vicious  animal, 
picking  up  the  fragments  scattered  along,  completed  a 
picture  which  would  have  made  the  fortune  of  Cruick- 
shank  had  he  been  on  the  spot  to  take  it  down.  Some 
time  after  this  adventure  the  Indians  stole  the  horse, 
but  they  made  a  bad  bargain  of  it 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Valley  of  Cedral  Creek.  —  Singular  Natural  Road.  — Another  Delay. — 
Arrival  of  General  McLeod  with  additional  Cattle. —  The  March  resumed. 
— Bad  Travelling.  —  Delicious  Spring  of  Water. —  Valley  of  the  Brazos. — 
Fondness  of  our  Animals  for  its  Waters.  —  Crossing  the  Brazos.  —  Prairie 
on  Fire.  —  Out  of  Water  again.  —  Sufferings  of  Man  and  Beast.  —  A  cool 
Spring  discovered.  —Natural  Bathing-tub. —  Fresh  Indian  "  Sign." — A  re- 
cently-deserted Village. — Trick  of  a  Wag. — The  Camanche  Peak. — "  See- 
ing the  Elephant." — The  "  Cross  Timbers." — Description  of  this  singular 
Forest.  —  Arrival  at  Noland's  River.  —  Destruction  of  our  Tents.  —  The 
crossing  of  Noland's  River. — Deserted  Indian  Village. —  Latitude  and  Lon- 
gitude taken.  —  In  the  Midst  of  our  Troubles — Our  last  Day  in  the  "  Cross 
Timbers."  —  A  gloomy  Night.  —  Once  more  upon  the  open  Prairie.  —  A 
hearty  Meal.  —  Speculations  as  to  the  Route  we  had  taken.  —  The  Banks 
of  Red  River  supposed  to  be  visible. 

ON  the  evening  of  the  6th  of  July,  the  day  after  the 
stampede  mentioned  in  the  preceding  chapter,  we  en- 
camped in  a  rich  and  beautiful  valley  through  which 
Cedral  Creek  meandered.  Our  descent  into  this  valley 
was  down  the  sides  of  a  steep  hill,  and  by  a  road  so 
perfect  that  it  seems  almost  impossible  nature  had  any 
hand  in  making  it.  From  the  top  we  had  a  fine  view 
of  the  romantic  valley  far  below  us,  which  was  studded 
here  and  there  with  clumps  of  trees,  ivhile  in  the  dis- 
tance a  dim  outline  of  mountains  and  the  wooded  bot- 
toms of  the  Brazos  relieved  the  eye. 

At  first  it  was  thought  impossible  to  get  the  wagons 


A    NATURAL   ROAD.  101 

down  the  steep  declivity,  but  the  spies  soon  found  that 
there  was  a  regular  road  winding  down  the  sides,  and 
by  means  of  this  we  descended  with  ease  and  safety. 
For  some  two  miles  there  was  every  appearance  of  a 
regular  excavation  on  the  upper,  and  of  an  embank- 
ment thrown  up  on  the  lower  side  of  the  hill ;  and  if 
this  road,  upon  which  there  was  little  vegetation,  is 
really  the  work  of  nature,  it  may  be  put  down  as  one 
of  her  strangest  doings.  Had  it  not  been  accidentally 
discovered  we  should  not  have  made  the  descent  with- 
out great  labour,  if  at  all. 

Some  of  the  wagons  needing  repairs,  and  our  present 
encampment  affording  every  facility  for  that  purpose, 
it  was  resolved  to  remain  here  until  General  McLeod 
should  arrive,  and  with  him  the  additional  cattle  for  our 
subsistence.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  8th  we  were  all 
overjoyed  to  see  the  expected  party  winding  their  way 
down  the  singular  natural  road  which  we  had  travelled 
two  days  previous.  General  McLeod  now  resumed  the 
command,  and  ordered  us  to  make  every  preparation 
for  an  early  start  on  the  following  morning.  Our 
course,  up  to  this  time,  had  been  north,  varying  a  little 
to  the  east,  perhaps,  as  the  broken  and  hilly  country 
intervened.  The  object  of  Mr.  Rowland,  our  guide, 
was  to  cross  the  Brazos  at  the  nearest  practicable  point, 
and  follow  up  between  the  waters  of  that  stream  and 
the  Trinity. 

After  travelling  some  sixteen  miles  on  the  9th,  to 
gain  certainly  not  more  than  half  that  distance,  we 
were  fortunate  in  reaching  a  small  spring  of  water. 
Our  progress  had  been  considerably  impeded  and  made 
devious  and  tiresome  by  deep  gullies  and  runs.  The 
ensuing  night  we  encamped  upon  the  banks  of  a  small 
creek  of  fresh  water,  emptying  into  the  Brazos.  This 

12 


102  A    LAND    OF    PLENTY. 

latter  stream  was  now  but  a  few  miles  to  our  right,  its 
rich  and  fertile  bottoms,  flanked  by  a  heavy  growth  of 
timber,  being  plainly  visible. 

Our  route,  on  the  llth  of  July,  was  along  a  chain  of 
rough  hills  which  separate  the  valley  of  the  Brazos 
from  the  prairies.  During  the  day,  several  wagons 
were  in  some  way  broken  and  injured,  and  it  was  only 
after  a  tedious  and  toilsome  march  that  we  were  en- 
abled to  reach  a  cool  and  delicious  spring  of  water,  and 
find  good  pasturage  for  our  jaded  horses  and  oxen. 
Here  we  found 'grass  in  great  abundance,  and  as  many 
of  the  wagons  were  again  in  need  of  repairs,  we  remain- 
ed until  the  14th. 

The  location  upon  which  we  were  encamped,  being 
in  the  edge  of  the  timber,  with  rich  prairie  directly 
in  front  of  us,  was  one  of  the  finest  we  had  yet  met 
on  our  route.  The  valley  of  the  Brazos  at  this  place 
abounded  with  every  species  of  timber  known  in  Texas  ; 
grapes,  plums,  and  other  fruit  were  found  in  profusion ; 
honey  could  be  obtained  in  almost  every  hollow  tree  ; 
trout  and  other  fish  were  plentiful  in  the  small  creeks 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the  woods  and  prairies  about 
us  not  only  afforded  excellent  grazing  for  our  cattle  and 
horses,  but  teemed  with  every  species  of  game — elk, 
deer,  bears,  wild  turkeys,  and,  at  the  proper  season,  buf- 
falo and  mustang.  No  fresh  Indian  "  sign"  was  dis- 
covered, but  the  year  previous  a  large  body  of  Chero- 
kees  or  Wacoes  had  evidently  made  the  neighbourhood 
their  home,  old  tent  poles  being  found  still  standing 
near  our  camping-ground,  as  well  as  corn-fields  which 
had  been  cultivated  the  year  before. 

As  I  have  said,  we  were  encamped  by  a  cool  and 
delicious  spring  of  never-failing  water.  Some  half  a 
mile  distant,  in  an  eastern  direction,  the  Brazos  mean- 


A    PRAIRIE    ON    FIRE.  103 

dered  along,  whose  salt  and  brackish  waters,  although 
unpalatable  for  man,  were  swallowed  with  avidity  by 
both  horses  and  cattle.  Indeed,  so  fond  were  the  latter 
of  this  water  that  they  drank  incredible  quantities  of  it, 
and  could  hardly  be  induced  to  leave  the  stream  the 
first  time  they  were  taken  to  it.  At  certain  periods  of 
the  year  the  prairie  Indians  visit  the  salt  streams  of 
Texas,  considering  the  waters  highly  beneficial  to  their 
stock. 

We  crossed  the  stream  on  the  14th,  after  much  diffi- 
culty from  the  quicksands  and  high  banks.  The  wag- 
ons all  over,  we  stopped  for  an  hour  or  two  under  the 
shade  of  some  oaks  that  skirted  the  border  of  the  val- 
ley, and  here,  for  the  first  time,  I  saw  the  magnificent 
spectacle  of  a  prairie  on  fire.  It  wa's  purely  accidental, 
and  caused  us  little  damage ;  but  had  the  wind  been  in 
a  different  direction  it  would  have  swept  the  whole 
face  of  the  country  for  miles  and  miles  in  advance. 
The  dry  grass  flashed  up  like  powder,  and  the  fire 
spread  over  the  prairie  with  alarming  speed.  At  first 
an  attempt  was  made  to  extinguish  it,  by  means  of 
switches  made  of  green  boughs  and  bushes ;  but  those 
who  exerted  themselves  in  this  way  returned  from  the 
task  with  singed  whiskers,  eyebrows,  and  hair,  and 
without  having  effected  anything. 

We  pursued  our  journey  in  the  afternoon,  and  reach- 
ed a  mud-hole — for  it  could  not  be  called  anything  else 
— where  we  encamped.  All  night  the  long  and  bright 
line  of  fire,  which  was  sweeping  across  the  prairie  to 
our  left,  was  plainly  seen,  and  the  next  morning  it  was 
climbing  the  narrow  chain  of  low  hills  which  divided 
the  prairie  from  the  bottoms  of  the  Brazos. 

With  a  single  exception  of  one  day  and  night,  we 
had  suffered  little  from  want  of  water  up  to  the  15th  of 


104  SUFFERING    FROM   THIRST. 

July.  After  a  tortuous  and  tedious  march,  over  a  dry 
prairie  ridge,  we  were  finally  obliged  to  encamp  with- 
out water.  Of  course  we  suffered  most  intolerably 
ourselves,  after  having  travelled  all  day  in  a  hot  sun ; 
but  the  cattle  and  horses  felt  it  even  more  seriously. 
At  night  the  guard  found  great  difficulty  in  herding 
and  keeping  them  together,  so  anxious  were  they  to 
start  off  in  search  of  water,  and  the  next  morning  the 
horses  had  a  wild  expression  about  the  eyes,  combined 
with  an  uneasiness  and  fretfulness,  which  forcibly  told 
their  suffering. 

Our  start  in  the  morning  was  early,  and  eagerly  did 
we  press  forward  with  the  hope  of  finding  water.  No 
breakfast  had  been  cooked,  as  eating  only  tended  to  in- 
crease a  thirst  which  was  already  distressing.  Late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  when  we  had  almost  despaired 
of  finding  water,  one  of  the  spies  returned  with  the  joy- 
ful intelligence  that  a  large  and  cool  spring  had  been 
discovered  but  a  little  way  off  our  course.  The  line  of 
march  was  now  instantly  broken  ;  for  those  who  had 
good  horses  dashed  madly  forward,  while  the  drivers 
bestowed  heavy  blows,  and  imprecations  if  possible 
more  horrible  than  ever,  upon  their  tired  cattle,  to  press 
them  onward.  In  small  straggling  parties  we  reached 
the  goal  of  our  hopes.  A  ledge  of  rocks,  from  which 
cool  and  limpid  water  was  gushing  in  all  directions, 
formed  the  head  of  the  spring,  and  a  few  yards  below 
the  different  branches  fell  into  a  common  basin  some 
twenty  yards  in  width,  and  filled  to  the  depth  of  eight 
or  ten  feet  with  the  transparent  element.  A  purling 
stream  was  here  formed,  which  carried  the  surplus  wa- 
ters of  the  beautiful  reservoir  to  mingle  with  the  brack- 
ish current  of  the  Brazos — a  base  and  most  unnatural 
union. 


M  OLD    PAINT."  105 

Our  thirst  was  slaked  at  the  very  fountain-head — the 
basin  was  converted  into  an  immense  bathing-tub,  where 
all  hands  enjoyed  the  invigorating  luxury  of  a  bath. 
My  ankle  was  still  much  swollen,  and  so  sore  that  I 
was  unable  to  use  it  in  the  least ;  but  I  made  out  to 
hobble  to  the  basin  on  one  foot,  and  gained  great 
strength  by  lying  at  the  edge  and  allowing  one  of  the 
cool  streams  from  above  to  fall  upon  the  lame  part. 
The  next  morning,  after  enjoying  another  bath,  we  left 
this  delicious  spring  with  regret,  and  pursued  our  jour- 
ney with  no  prospect  of  water  before  us.  We  were 
fortunate  enough,  however,  to  reach  a  small  branch  of 
running  water  at  nightfall,  upon  which  we  encamped. 

Our  camp  was  hardly  formed  before  Captain  Cald- 
well,  or  "  Old  Paint,"*  as  he  was  generally  called,  re- 
turned with  the  spy  company,  and  reported  that  he  had 
fallen  in  with  an  Indian  camp  which  apparently  had 
been  deserted  but  a  few  hours.  The  duties  of  the  spy 
company,  I  might  here  add,  were  to  keep  one  day  in 
advance  of  the  main  body,  for  the  purpose  of  picking 
out  the  best  road  for  the  wagons,  finding  water,  and 
keeping  a  look-out  for  Indians.  Captain  C.  brought  in 
a  number  of  roasting  ears,  and  stated  that  he  found 
many  unripe  melons  and  pumpkins  among  the  corn. 

*  Captain  Caldwell  received  the  soubriquet  of  "  Old  Paint,"  from  the  fact 
of  his  naturally  dark  hair,  whiskers,  and  beard  being  covered  with  large 
white  spots.  In  Texas,  and  some  of  our  Southern  States,  a  horse  or  other 
animal  which  is  spotted  is  called  a  "  paint."  Captain  C.  was  an  old  back- 
woodsman, had  been  engaged  in  conflicts  almost  innumerable  with  the  Mex- 
icans and  Indians,  and  was  what  is  termed  in  Texas  an  excellent  "  rough 
fighter"  and  hunter.  He  was  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence of  Texas,  and  many  of  his  daring  achievements  are  often  recount- 
ed in  that  country.  He  was  released,  with  the  other  Texan  prisoners,  and 
returned  to  his  family  at  Gonzales ;  but  on  the  invasion  of  Texas  in  1842, 
by  General  Woil,  he  recruited  a  company  and  defeated  that  officer  at  the 
Salado.  The  following  winter  he  died,  much  regretted  by  all  who  knew 
him. 


106  INDIAN    SIGN. 

While  on  Little  River,  a  report  had  been  sent  to  Gen- 
eral McLeod  that  a  large  party  of  Cherokees,  Caddoes, 
and  individuals  of  other  tribes,  all  hostile  to  Texas,  had 
planted  themselves  in  a  large  and  fertile  bend  of  the 
Brazos  above  the  Camanche  Peak,  and  that  they  had 
extensive  and  well-cultivated  fields,  besides  a  large 
number  of  horses  and  mules.  At  first  it  was  determin- 
ed to  go  somewhat  out  of  our  way  and  attack  this  party 
in  their  stronghold,  for  it  was  said  that  they  were  well 
fortified ;  but  upon  after  thought  it  was  feared  the  de- 
tention would  be  too  great,  and  the  adventure  was 
given  up.  It  was  now  evident  enough  that  we  were  in 
the  vicinity  of  these  hostiles,  and  at  night  strict  orders 
were  given  the  guard  to  be  on  the  alert  to  prevent  a 
surprise,  or  our  horses  and  oxen  from  being  stampeded 
and  driven  off. 

The  next  day  we  made  but  five  or  six  miles  on  our 
journey,  and  encamped  near  several  mineral  springs, 
the  waters  of  which  were  strongly  impregnated  with 
iron  and  sulphur.  The  scull  of  a  white  woman,  but  re- 
cently killed,  was  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  large  and 
fresh  Indian  trails  were  discovered  running  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Brazos.  We  also  passed  through  a  recently- 
deserted  Indian  camp  upon  the  march,  the  bark  wig- 
wams still  standing,  and  many  of  the  implements  gener- 
ally seen  in  an  Indian  village  remaining  precisely  as  the 
frightened  inhabitants  had  left  them. 

Some  ingenious  wag  had  left  our  camp  early  in  the 
morning,  alone,  and  happened  to  be  the  first  to  discover 
this  village.  The  fellow  played  off  a  fine  trick  upon 
some  of  us  in  the  manner  following :  the  interiors  of 
some  of  the  wigwams  were  lined  with  smooth  bark,  and 
choosing  one  of  the  larger  domiciles,  he  covered  the 
bark  with  rough  but  tolerably  well-drawn  figures  of 


A    CLEVER    HOAX.  107 

men,  horses,  and  buffalo.  He  must  have  been  a  rapid 
sketcher,  as  the  entire  ceiling,  if  I  may  so  call  it,  was  in 
this  way  decorated.  Underneath  a  group  of  figures 
stood  out,  in  bold  relief  and  in  good  Roman  characters, 
the  crack-jaw  name  of  some  Indian  brave,  leading  us  to 
suppose,  at  once,  that  this  was  the  artist  who  had  ex- 
ecuted the  work  above.  Not  suspecting,  for  a  moment, 
that  any  such  hoax  had  been  played,  and  never  imagin- 
ing that  any  of  our  men  had  gone  ahead  and  alone,  we 
could  not  but  come  to  the  conclusion  that  some  erratic 
white  genius  had  domesticated  himself  among  the  In- 
dians, or  that  one  of  the  wild  sons  of  the  woods  and  the 
prairies  had  cultivated,  in  some  way,  a  taste  for  the  fine 
arts.  The  author  of  the  hoax,  however,  thinking  the 
joke  too  good  to  be  lost,  finally  divulged  the  secret. 

Our  next  day's  march  was  along  the  high  ridge  of 
prairies  which  divides  the  waters  of  what  was  thought 
to  be  Noland's  River  from  those  of  the  Brazos.  The 
prospect  on  both  sides  was  romantic  in  a  high  degree. 
To  the  east,  for  miles,  the  prairie  gently  sloped,  hardly 
presenting  a  bush  to  relieve  the  eye.  In  the  distance, 
the  green  skirting  of  woods,  which  fringed  either  bor- 
der of  a  large  stream,  softened  down  the  view.  Oc- 
casionally a  deer  would  jump  suddenly  from  his  noon- 
day rest,  and  scamper  off  across  the  prairie,  but  other 
than  this  no  game  was  seen.  The  few  deer  we  saw 
were  exceedingly  wild,  from  the  fact  of  there  being  so 
many  Indians  in  the  vicinity ;  while  the  buffalo  had  ev- 
idently all  been  driven  to  the  south. 

To  the  west  of  the  ridge,  the  immediate  vicinity  was 
even  more  desolate,  but  the  fertile  bottoms  of  the  Bra- 
zos, with  their  luxuriant  growth  of  timber,  were  still  vis- 
ible, and  the  Camanche  Peak,  rising  high  above  the  other 
hills,  gave  grandeur  and  sublimity  to  a  scene  which 


108  SEEING    THE    ELEPHANT. 

would  otherwise  have  been  far  from  monotonous.  This 
peak  is  celebrated  as  a  looking-out  point  for  the  Caman- 
ches,  commanding,  as  it  does,  a  complete  view  of  the 
country  around  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach — and  hence 
its  name. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  small  spring  of 
water  where  we  encamped,  and  the  grass  being  excel- 
lent in  the  vicinity,  we  remained  nearly  all  the  next  day 
to  rest  the  jaded  cattle  and  repair  the  rickety  wagons. 
Many  of  the  latter  were  half  worn  out  when  we  start- 
ed, and  the  rough  road  over  which  we  had  travelled 
was  far  from  improving  them.  An  afternoon's  march 
brought  us  to  a  noble  spring  in  a  grove  of  post  oaks — 
a  grove  which  turned  out  to  be  one  of  the  outskirts  of 
the  celebrated  Cross  Timbers. 

Up  to  the  21st  of  July,  one  month  from  the  time  when 
we  left  the  Brushy,  our  course  had  been  nearly  north, 
the  country  we  traversed  principally  fertile  and  rolling 
prairies,  destitute  of  timber  except  the  bottoms  of  the 
different  streams  we  had  crossed.  Our  road,  in  the 
mean  time,  although  we  had  considered  it  very  bad.  was 
a  perfect  macadamized  turnpike  in  comparison  with 
what  we  were  shortly  to  meet.  There  is  a  cant  expres- 
sion, "  I've  seen  the  elephant,"  in  very  common  use  in 
Texas,  although  I  had  never  heard  it  until  we  entered 
the  Cross  Timbers,  or  rather  the  first  evening  after  we 
had  encamped  in  that  noted  strip  of  forest  land.  I  had 
already  seen  "  sights"  of  almost  every  kind,  animals  of  al- 
most every  species,  reptiles  until  I  was  more  than  satis- 
fied with  the  number  and  variety,  and  felt  ready  and 
willing  to  believe  almost  anything  I  might  hear  as  to 
what  I  was  yet  to  see  ;  but  I  knew  very  well  that  we 
were  not  in  an  elephant  range,  and  when  I  first  heard 
one  of  our  men  say  that  he  had  seen  the  animal  in  ques- 


SIMPLICITY    PUZZLED.  109 

I 

tion,  I  was  utterly  at  a  loss  to  fathom  his  meaning.  I 
knew  that  the  phrase  had  some  conventional  significa- 
tion, but  farther  I  was  ignorant.  A  youngster,  how- 
ever, was  "  caught"  by  the  expression,  and  quite  a  laugh 
was  raised  around  a  camp  fire  at  his  expense. 

A  small  party  of  us  were  half  sitting,  half  reclining 
around  some  blazing  fagots,  telling  stories  of  the  past 
and  speculating  upon  our  prospects  for  the  future,  when 
an  old  member  of  the  spy  company  entered  our  circle 
and  quietly  took  a  seat  upon  the  ground.  After  a  long 
breath,  and  a  preparatory  clearing  of  his  throat,  the 
veteran  hunter  exclaimed,  "  Well,  I've  seen  the  ele- 
phant." 

"  The  what  ?"  said  a  youngster  close  by,  partially 
turning  round  so  as  to  get  a  view  of  the  speaker's  face, 
and  then  giving  him  a  look  which  was  made  up  in  equal 
parts  of  incredulity  and  inquiry. 

"  I've  seen  the  elephant,"  coolly  replied  the  old  cam- 
paigner. 

"  But  not  a  real,  sure-enough  elephant,  have  you  ?" 
queried  the  younger  speaker,  with  that  look  and  tone 
which  indicate  the  existence  of  a  doubt  and  the  wish  to 
have  it  promptly  and  plainly  removed. 

This  was  too  much ;  for  all  within  hearing,  many  of 
whom  understood  and  could  fully  appreciate  the  joke, 
burst  out  in  an  inordinate  fit  of  laughter  as  they  saw 
how  easily  the  young  man  had  walked  into  a  trap, 
which,  although  not  set  for  that  purpose,  had  fairly 
caught  him  ;  and  I,  too,  joined  in  the  merry  outbreak, 
yet  in  all  frankness  I  must  say  that  I  did  not  fully  un- 
derstand what  I  was  laughing  at.  The  meaning  of  the 
expression  I  will  explain.  When  a  man  is  disappointed 
in  anything  he  undertakes,  when  he  has  seen  enough, 
when  he  gets  sick  and  tired  of  any  job  he  may  have  set 

VOL.  I.— K 


110  THE    CROSS    TIMBERS. 

himself  about,  he  has  "  seen  the  elephant"  We  had  been 
buffeting  about  during  the  day,  cutting  away  trees,  cross- 
ing deep  ravines  and  gullies,  and  turning  and  twisting 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  gain  five — we  had  finally 
to  encamp  by  a  mud-hole  of  miserable  water,  and  the 
spies  had  been  unable  to  find  any  beyond — this  com- 
bination of  ills  induced  the  old  hunter  to  remark,  "  I've 
seen  the  elephant,"  and  upon  the  same  principle  I  will 
here  state  that  I  had  by  this  time  obtained  something 
more  than  a  glimpse  of  the  animal  myself, 

We  were  now  fairly  within  the  limits  of  the  Cross 
Timbers,  a  singular  strip  of  wooded  country,  a  descrip- 
tion of  which  may  not  prove  uninteresting.* 

The  immense  western  prairies  are  bordered,  for  hun- 
dreds of  miles  on  their  eastern  side,  by  a  narrow  belt  of 
forest  land  well  known  to  hunters  and  trappers  under 
the  above  name.  The  course  of  this  range  is  nearly 
north  and  south,  with  a  width  ranging  from  thirty  to 
fifty  miles.  The  growth  of  timber  is  principally  small, 
gnarled,  post  oaks  and  black  jacks,  and  in  many  places 
the  traveller  will  find  an  almost  impenetrable  under- 
growth of  brier  and  other  thorny  bushes.  Here  and 
there  he  will  also  find  a  small  valley  where  the  timber 
is  large  and  the  land  rich  and  fertile,  and  occasionally 
a  small  prairie  intervenes ;  but  the  general  face  of  the 
country  is  broken  and  hilly,  and  the  soil  thin.  On  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Cross  Timbers  the  country  is  varied 
by  small  prairies  and  clumps  of  woodland,  while  on  the 
western  all  is  a  perfect  ocean  of  prairie.  The  belt,  there- 
fore, for  whatever  purpose  it  may  have  been  fashioned 

*  My  own  opinion  is,  that  we  entered  the  Timbers  near  the  southern  ex- 
tremity. What  distance  this  singular  forest  extends  north  I  am  unable  to 
say,  but  I  believe  it  terminates  not  far  from  the  Canadian  or  Arkansas.  It 
probably  reaches  no  farther  south  than  a  point  near  the  junction  of  Poland's 
River  with  the  Brazos. 


WILD    HONEY.  Ill 

by  the  Great  Creator  of  all  things,  appears  to  be  an  im- 
mense natural  hedge  dividing  the  woodlands  of  the  set- 
tled portions  of  the  United  States  from  the  open  prai- 
ries which  have  ever  been  the  home  and  hunting-ground 
of  the  red  man.  To  use  another  figure,  it  may  be  look- 
ed upon  as  the  western  side  of  the  frame  of  an  immense 
landscape  painting,  the  United  States  forming  the  sub- 
ject. The  Gulf  of  Mexico  may  be  considered  the  frame 
on  the  southern  side,  the  Atlantic  on  the  east,  while  the 
great  lakes  which  divide  the  picture  from  Canada  must 
serve  for  the  northern  side. 

In  that  portion  through  which  we  passed,  and  we 
spent  nearly  a  fortnight  in  the  Cross  Timbers,  we  found 
the  face  of  the  country  broken,  and  full  of  deep  and  al- 
most impassable  gullies.  These,  in  the  rainy  season, 
carry  off  the  waters  from  the  hills  to  the  larger  streams 
outside  the  woods,  but  in  July  we  found  them  all  dry. 
Had  we  been  able  to  travel  directly  west  we  should 
have  materially  shortened  our  journey  ;  but  the  country 
was  such  that  we  were  compelled  to  pursue  a  diagonal 
course,  subjecting  men,  cattle,  and  horses  to  great  pri- 
vation and  suffering,  to  say  nothing  of  the  vexations  of 
our  slow  and  toilsome  march. 

Bear  and  deer  are  found  in  the  Cross  Timbers  and 
the  vicinity,  and  small  gangs  of  buffalo  take  shelter  in 
them  when  scattered  and  driven  from  the  prairies  by  In- 
dians. In  many  of  the  trees  swarms  of  wild  bees  are 
found,  affording  delicious  honey — a  great  luxury  to  those 
who  are  engaged  in  a  border  life,  for  it  is  well  known 
that  the  absence  of  breadstuff's  increases  the  appetite 
for  sweets  of  every  description.  Often,  while  living 
upon  nothing  but  poor  beef  and  not  half  enough  of  that, 
did  fallacious  pictures  of  confectionary-stores  and  cake- 
shops  pass  before  my  dreaming  fancies — the  shadows 


112  PRIVATIONS    BEGINNING. 

of  pies,  puffs,  and  patties,  of  comfits,  candies,  and  creams 
were  there,  but  the  substance  was  far  away. 

For  two  or  three  days  we  journeyed  through  the 
middle  of  the  belt,  every  attempt  to  find  a  passage  out 
proving  futile.  On  one  or  two  occasions,  distant  fires 
were  seen  upon  the  hills  at  night,  but  we  were  unable 
to  get  a  sight  of  the  Indians  who  were  encamped  by 
them. 

On  the  night  of  the  23d  we  reached  Noland's  River.* 
As  many  of  our  oxen  were  much  travel- worn,  and  some 
of  our  horses  needed  shoeing,  we  encamped  upon  this 
stream  until  the  26th.  At  this  camp  the  officers  of  the 
expedition  held  a  consultation  to  devise  means  for  more 
rapi dP  progress.  While  upon  the  praries,  it  was  evident 
that  the  wagons  were  too  heavily  loaded,  and  now  that 
we  were  in  a  much  rougher  country  it  was  deemed  im- 
peratively necessary  that  they  should  in  some  way  be 
lightened.  The  first  step  towards  effecting  this  desira- 
ble object  was  the  throwing  away  a  large  portion  of 
the  dry  beef  we  had  brought  from  Austin,  much  of 
which  was  found  to  be  spoiled.  This  meat  had  been 
provided  as  a  last  resort  in  case  the  Indians  should  de- 
prive us  of  our  cattle  ;  but  to  carry  it  farther  was  con- 
sidered unwise,  and  such  portions  of  it  as  were  fit  for 
use  were  immediately  served  out  to  the  men  instead  of 
green  beef,  but  half  the  weight  of  the  latter  being  given. 
It  was  also  resolved  to  deprive  us  of  one  of  our  greatest 
comforts — the  tents.  There  were  many  of  them  new, 
well  made,  and  easily  pitched — but  that  there  should  be 
no  repining,  nor  ill-feelings  engendered  in  the  camp,  all 
the  poles  were  burned,  as  well  those  of  the  officers, 

*  Some  of  our  men  thought  it  was  one  of  the  forks  of  the  Trinity.  I  am 
inclined  to  believe  they  were  wrong  in  their  surmises,  although  far  from 
confident. 


PERPLEXITIES.  113 

commissaries,  and  merchants,  as  of  the  men.  But  one 
was  saved — the  hospital  tent,  for  the  use  of  such  as 
might  be  sick — and  we  had  now  nothing  to  protect  us 
from  the  rain  or  cold  but  our  blankets  and  the  sky. 
During  the  three  days  we  passed  on  the  western  side 
of  Noland's  River  the  wagons  received  a  thorough  re- 
pairing. The  fatigue  men  also  dug  away  the  steep 
banks  of  the  stream,  and  cut  a  road  through  the  heavy 
timber  of  the  bottoms. 

By  the  26th  of  July  everything  was  in  readiness  for 
resuming  the  toilsome  journey,  and  after  crossing  the 
river  without  accident  we  were  enabled  to  travel  some 
ten  miles  before  we  encamped.  The  road  was  through 
a  stony  and  hilly  country,  interspersed  with  an  occasion- 
al grove  of  black  jacks  and  post  oaks.  To  the  right  of 
our  line  of  march  we  saw  the  ruins  of  what  had  been  a 
large  Indian  village,  many  of  the  wigwams  being  still 
in  a  partial  state  of  preservation. 

The  next  day  we  reached  a  small  grove  of  timber, 
bounded  on  all  sides  by  a  level  and  beautiful  prairie — 
an  island,  it  would  almost  appear,  in  the  heart  of  the 
Cross  Timbers.  The  water  and  grass  being  good  at 
this  place,  and  the  country  beyond  appearing  rough  and 
our  farther  advance  almost  impossible,  it  was  deter- 
mined to  remain  until  the  spies  had  found  some  outlet 
'  from  the  labyrinth  of  difficulties  in  which  we  were  en- 
tangled. 

At  this  camp,  for  the  first  time,  the  latitude  and  lon- 
gitude were  taken  by  Mr.  Falconer  and  Lieutenant 
Hull,  the  latter  of  whom  had  been  an  officer  in  the  Eng- 
lish navy  and  fully  understood  the  use  of  the  quadrant. 
According  to  their  calculation,  we  were  upward  of  two 
hundred  miles  in  a  course  nearly  north  from  Austin, 
and  the  distance  to  Santa  Fe  was  close  upon  five  hun- 

K2 


114  BAD  COUNTRY  FOR  TRAVEL. 

dred  miles,  the  direction  a  little  north  of  west.  The 
exact  latitude  and  longitude  I  made  a  memorandum  of 
in  my  note-book,  together  with  a  description  of  the 
country  through  which  we  passed,  the  course  each  day, 
and  the  number  of  miles  we  travelled.  This  book  is 
now  in  the  hands  of  the  Mexicans,  and  as  a  matter  of 
course  I  am  compelled  to  depend  upon  memory.  Cir- 
cumstances difficult  to  forget,  however,  occurred  every 
few  days,  the  dates  of  which  were  so  strongly  impress- 
ed upon  me  that  I  still  retain  them,  and  the  events  of 
the  intervening  time  I  am  obliged  to  fill  up,  as  I  have 
said  before,  from  memory. 

The  spies  returned  in  the  evening  and  reported  that 
they  had  found  a  route  through  the  timber  in  a  north- 
westerly direction — the  only  one  in  which  we  could 
travel.  They  stated  the  distance  to  be  about  twenty 
miles,  the  country  covered  with  brush  and  post  oaks, 
cut  up  by  ravines,  and  without  water ;  but  it  was  be- 
lieved that  by  sending  a  large  fatigue  party  in  advance 
with  shovels  and  axes,  and  by  making  a  very  early 
start,  we  could  cut  our  way  through  in  one  day — at  all 
events  it  was  determined  to  attempt  it.  Mr.  Navarro, 
although  extremely  lame,  would  not  trust  himself  in  the 
little  Jersey  wagon,  but  mounted  a  horse  and  left  me 
the  only  passenger.  Fitzgerald  volunteered  to  drive 
the  mules  for  this  day  only.  His  style  of  handling  the 
reins  was  peculiarly  of  the  break-neck  order,  but  as  we 
had  to  travel  over  a  break-neck  road  the  driving  may 
be  set  down  as  in  perfect  keeping. 

The  morning  was  pleasant,  but  the  bright  July  sun 
gave  promise  of  an  unusually  hot  day,  and  did  not  dis- 
appoint us.  At  the  first  gully  we  crossed,  which  was 
not  more  than  half  a  mile  from  our  starting-point,  two 
of  the  foremost  wagons  upset.  The  labour  of  righting 


WORSE    AND    WORSE.  115 

them  and  repacking  their  heavy  loads  occupied  some 
two  hours,  and  thus  it  was  near  the  middle  of  the  day 
before  we  had  made  one  quarter  of  our  day's  march. 
In  the  mean  time,  the  road  grew  worse  and  worse  as 
we  advanced,  the  weather  was  unusually  hot  and  sultry, 
our  stock  of  water  was  soon  exhausted,  and  with  that 
went  our  patience  and  good  temper.  One  difficulty 
was  no  sooner  passed,  than  even  a  worse  stared  us  in 
the  face.  The  narrow  passage  cut  for  the  wagons  was 
stumpy  and  stony,  cut  up  every  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  by  deep  gullies,  or  the  dry  beds  of  what  had 
been  running  streams.  The  ground  was  covered  with 
a  heavy  undergrowth  of  briers  and  thorn-bushes,  im- 
penetrable even  by  mules,  and  these,  with  the  black  jacks 
and  post  oaks  which  thickly  studded  the  broken  surface, 
had  to  be  cut  away,  their- removal  only  showing,  in 
bolder  relief,  the  rough  and  jagged  surface  of  the  soil 
which  had  given  them  existence  and  nourishment. 

Night  finally  overtook  us,  when  we  were  but  half 
way  through  our  toilsome  march.  By  this  time  fatigue- 
men  and  drivers  were  worn  down,  hungry,  half  choked 
with  thirst,  and  completely  dispirited ;  the  oxen  were 
jaded,  unwilling  or  unable  to  draw,  as  well  as  suffering 
for  want  of  water,  and  the  imprecations  bestowed  upon 
them  were  louder,  deeper,  and  more  disgustingly  blas- 
phemous than  ever.  Several  wagons  had  been  upset, 
broken  to  pieces,  and  left  by  the  roadside,  while  the  com- 
mand was  scattered  for  miles  through  the  woods,  every 
one  eagerly  pressing  forward  for  water,  uncontrolled  and 
uncontrollable.  To  make  the  matter  worse  for  Fitzgerald 
and  myself,  we  had  fallen  in  the  rear  of  the  long  train 
of  wagons,  with  the  hope  of  finding  a  better  road,  and 
it  was  impossible  to  pass  them.  Had  we  started  with 
the  party  in  advance,  we  might  have  pressed  forward 


116  THE   CLIMAX. 

in  our  light  wagon,  and  thus  have  reached  water ;  as  it 
was,  we  were  compelled  to  keep  the  position  we  had 
originally  taken  in  the  cumbrous  and  gloomy  pro- 
cession. 

To  make  our  situation  still  more  desperate,  a  dark 
and  cloudy  night  followed  a  clear  and  hot  day.  How 
fervently  we  wished  it  might  rain,  that  it  might  descend 
in  torrents,  and  thus  enable  us  to  slake  a  thirst  which 
was  almost  intolerable ;  yet  while  the  muttering  thun- 
der plainly  told  us  that  heavy  showers  were  passing 
around  us,  a  few  drops  only  fell  to  our  share — the  clouds 
but  made  our  march  more  difficult  and  dangerous. 

Midnight  came,  finding  us  in  the  midst,  I  might  say  in 
the  very  thickest,  of  our  troubles.  The  extended  train 
of  wagons  made  an  unusually  long  stop,  and  while  we 
were  peering  through  the  gloom  3nd  wondering  what 
had  caused  the  delay,  word  was  passed  along  the  line 
that  the  artillery-carriage  had  stuck  fast  in  a  gully  some 
half  a  mile  ahead,  that  most  of  the  fatigue-men  had 
mounted  their  horses  and  started  off  in  search  of  water, 
and  what  was  more  annoying  than  all.  that  we  must  re- 
main where  we  were  through  the  night !  Here  was  a 
climax  to  a  day  and  night  of  horrors.  Had  I  been  in 
possession  of  the  use  of  my  limbs  I  would  have  started 
at  once  for  water ;  as  it  was.  I  was  compelled  to  bear 
nry  sufferings  as  best  I  could.  Fitzgerald  merely  un- 
hitched the  mules  from  the  wagon,  and  without  taking 
off  the  harness  made  them  fast  to  a  neighbouring  black 
jack  with  the  reins.  He  then  betook  himself  to  the 
ground  under  our  carriage,  while  I  took  an  inside  seat, 
or  rather  couch.  Thirsty  and  hungry  as  I  was,  I  soon 
fell  asleep,  and  never  woke  up  till  morning.  It  must 
have  been  sheer  exhaustion  that  induced  this  sleep,  for 
my  mind  was  certainly  attuned  to  anything  else. 


ESCAPE   FROM    THE    CROSS    TIMBERS.  117 

When  the  morning  light  enabled  us  to  see  the  sur- 
rounding objects,  we  discovered  that  our  mules  had  bro- 
ken their  fastenings,  and  started  off,  probably  in  search 
of  water.  Here  was  a  prospect  of  another  annoying 
delay,  for  we  could  form  no  opinion  as  to  the  time  when 
the  mules  had  left  or  the  course  they  had  taken.  After 
a  long  search,  however,  they  were  found,  led  back  to 
the  wagon,  and  a  few  minutes  saw  us  again  on  our  jour- 
ney. About  the  middle  of  the  day  we  finally  emerged 
from  the  Cross  Timbers,  and  a  short  ride  across  a  smooth 
prairie  brought  us  to  our  companions,  who  were  com- 
fortably encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  running  spring 
of  fresh  water.  Those,  and  those  only,  who  have 
passed  twenty-four  hours  without  water,  half  the  time 
under  a  hot  broiling  sun  and  in  circumstances  of  fe- 
verish excitement,  can  judge  of  our  feelings  and  suf- 
ferings— are  alone  able  to  appreciate  the  perfect  hap- 
piness experienced  as  the  parched  lips  and  swollen 
tongue  first  touched  the  precious  element.  But  our 
march  of  the  previous  day  and  night — never  can  I  for- 
get that  march.  I  had  previously  travelled  many  wea- 
ry miles,  over  the  worst  roads,  and  by  the  worst  con- 
veyances ;  I  had  thought  my  sufferings  great  during 
these  different  journeyings  ;  but  to  alter  a  remark  of  the 
facetious  and  renowned  Sancho  Panza,  all  those  suffer- 
ings were  cakes  and  gingerbread  compared  with  what 
I  experienced  the  last  day  and  night  we  passed  in  the 
Cross  Timbers. 

We  were  hungry  as  well  as  dry  on  reaching  our  en- 
campment ;  so,  after  having  slaked  our  thirst,  we  sat 
down  to  a  most  delicious  repast.  And  what  was  this 
repast  ?  the  gentle  reader  may  ask :  simply  a  piece  of 
ordinary  beef,  cooked  before  a  fire  on  a  ramrod ;  but 
keen  appetites  supplied  bread,  vegetables  and  seasoning, 


118  BETTER    PROSPECTS. 

and  a  heartier  meal  I  never  enjoyed.  I  thought,  while 
eating,  of  the  gourmands  of  cities,  men  who  spend  half 
their  time  in  getting  up  an  appetite  to  relish  the  delica- 
cies placed  before  them — I  pitied  them,  and  ate  on. 

It  was  not  until  a  late  hour  in  the  evening  that  the 
broken  wagons  and  scattered  oxen  were  safely  brought 
into  camp  ;  if  my  memory  serves  me  aright,  several  of 
the  latter  had  strayed  so  far  away  that  they  were  never 
found.  The  blacksmith's  forge  was,  in  the  mean  time, 
put  in  operation,  the  greatest  exertions  being  made  so 
to  patch  up  the  injured  wagons  that  they  would  be  in 
condition  to  resume  the  journey  early  on  the  morrow. 

Now  that  we  had  made  the  dreaded  passage  of  the 
Cross  Timbers,  we  were  sanguine  in  believing  our  troub- 
les and  difficulties  over.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach 
in  a  west-northwest  direction,  which  was  the  course  re- 
solved upon  by  our  guide,  Mr.  Rowland,  nothing  could 
be  seen  but  a  succession  of  smooth,  gently-undulating 
prairies.  From  several  hills  in  our  vicinity,  known  to 
many  hunters  who  were  among  us,  it  was  evident  that 
we  were  within  twenty  miles  of  Red  River :  in  fact, 
the  distant  timber  which  skirts  the  borders  of  that 
stream  was  now  supposed  to  be  in  sight.  It  was  also 
known  that  we  were  but  a  short  distance  from  an  old 
Towish  Village,  a  noted  camping-ground  for  the  Paw- 
nees and  other  prairie  Indians  in  their  annual  excursions 
south  in  quest  of  buffalo. 

By  going  directly  to  the  banks  of  Red  River,  and  at- 
tempting to  follow  it  too  closely,  it  was  feared  that  we 
should  meet  with  many  of  the  deep  gullies  through 
which  the  waters  falling  during  the  rainy  season  pour 
themselves  into  that  stream,  and  should  find  none  but 
the  river  water  for  use,  which,  in  the  dry  months,  is 
characteristically  brackish  and  unpalatable.  By  keep- 


UNFORTUNATE    MISTAKES.  119 

ing  farther  out,  it  was  thought  we  should  not  only  find 
fresh  water  in  greater  abundance,  but  a  far  better  road 
than  by  a  route  nearer  the  stream.  Unfortunately  for 
us  this  was  the  course  adopted.  Mr.  Howland  formed 
his  plans  with  much  judgment  and  deliberation ;  that 
we  afterward  encountered  and  followed  a  stream  mis- 
taking it  for  Red  River,  was  one  of  those  unfortunate 
errors  against  which  no  human  foresight  or  prudence 
could  have  guarded.  The  fate  of  the  expedition  might 
have  been  altogether  different  had  we  adopted  the  re- 
pudiated plan,  keeping  on  until  we  had  reached  the 
above  stream,  and  then  followed  it  so  closely  that  there 
would  have  been  no  possibility  of  losing  it. 

Another  important  error,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  was 
the  crossing  of  the  Brazos.  Had  we  kept  directly  along 
the  ridge  which  divides  that  stream  from  the  Colorado, 
we  should  certainly  have  avoided  the  toilsome  and  te- 
dious passage  of  the  Cross  Timbers,  and  it  may  be  have 
suffered  as  little  from  scarcity  of  water.  This  route 
would  certainly  have  been  much  nearer,  as  we  could 
have  travelled  almost  a  direct  course  ;  but  to  oppose  it, 
different  objections  were  raised.  By  some  it  was  said 
that  we  should  be  obliged  to  cross  large  prairies  abound- 
ing with  salt  lakes,  where  no  fresh  water  could  be  pro- 
cured ;  others,  again,  prudently  contended  that  the 
country  in  that  direction  was  much  of  it  unexplored, 
and  consequently  unknown,  while  by  crossing  the  Bra- 
zos, a  short  distance  below  the  Camanche  Peak,  we 
were  almost  certain  of  finding  fresh  water  every  day, 
and  a  country  over  which  the  wagons  could  be  taken. 
Perhaps  it  was  better  that  we  took  the  course  we  did : 

"  There's  a  divinity   that  shapes  our  ends, 
Rough-hew  them  how  we  will ;" 

and  until  more  is  known  of  the  country  between  the 


120  THE    MARCH    RESUMED. 

head  waters  of  the  Brazos  and  Colorado,  it  is  folly 
to  indulge  in  idle  regrets  that  we  did  not  take  that 
course. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Trail  of  the  Chihuahua  Traders. — Causes  of  the  Failure  of  that  Enterprise. 
— A  fresh  Indian  "  Burn." — Dr.  Whittaker  lost. — Indian  Dogs. — Their  for- 
lorn Appearance. — Exciting  Scene. — An  Indian  Buffalo  Chase. — Well  rid 
of  annoying  Visiters. — Buffalo  Meat  for  Dinner. —  Pack  of  miserable  Curs. 
— A  recently-deserted  Indian  Camp. — Dr.  Whittaker  again  among  us. — A 
white  Flag  sent  out.  —  Beautiful  Camping-ground. — An  Eclipse.  —  Once 
more  on  Horseback. — Singular  Chase. — Both  Parties  mistaken. — A  Soak- 
ing.— Carlos,  a  Mexican,  joins  the  Spy  Company. — Plausibility  of  his  Sto- 
ries.— The  supposed  Red  River. — Parley  with  a  Party  of  Wacoes. — Their 
Insolence. — Arrival  at  a  Waco  Village. — Its  desertion  by  the  Inhabitants. 
— Beautiful  Location  of  the  Town. — Its  Houses  and  Corn-fields. — An  In- 
dian Musical  Instrument. — Speculations  upon  Love. — High  State  of  Civi- 
lization of  the  Wacoes. —  Causes  of  the  Hostility  of  the  Wacoes  to  the 
Texans.  —  Departure  from  the  Village.  —  Brackish  Water.  —  Fear  of  the 
Prairie  Indians  of  Artillery. — Origin  of  this  Fear. 

WE  left  our  camp,  near  the  western  margin  of  the 
Cross  Timbers,  late  on  the  morning  of  the  last  day  of 
July,  and,  such  was  the  excellence  of  the  travelling  on 
the  prairies,  were  able  to  make  twelve  miles  on  our 
journey.  During  the  forenoon  we  crossed  the  great 
trail  made  the  year  before  by  the  Chihuahua  traders. 
A  company  of  American  merchants,  residents  of  Chi- 
huahua, had  conceived  the  project  of  opening  a  direct 
trade  with  the  United  States  by  way  of  the  prairies,  in 
lieu  of  the  circuitous  and  expensive  route  through  St. 
Louis,  Santa  Fe,  and  El  Paso  del  Norte. 

Thinking  that,  by  crossing  the  Rio  Grande  at  a  point 


INDIANS    NEAR.  121 

not  far  from  the  latter  town,  and  then  taking  a  course 
nearly  east,  they  could  reach  Red  River  near  Jones- 
boro,  they  visited  the  United  States  with  the  intention 
of  testing  its  feasibility  by  experiment.  Having  pur- 
chased and  loaded  some  eighty  wagons,  they  left  the 
western  borders  of  Arkansas  early  in  the  spring  of  1840. 
No  less  than  five  months  were  these  men  employed  in 
cutting  their  way  through  the  Cross  Timbers,  while  the 
heavy  bottoms,  and  the  dismal  bogs  and  fens  of  Red 
River,  were  rendered  thrice  dreadful  by  constant  rains. 
After  they  had  passed  these  disheartening  obstacles,  and 
reached  the  open  prairies,  they  were  still  three  months 
upon  the  road,  making  eight  in  all.  So  great  was  the 
expense,  and  so  much  time  was  lost  in  crossing  the 
prairies,  that  the  enterprise  proved  a  losing  speculation, 
and  has  not  been  repeated.  A  company  of  American 
equestrians,  with  all  their  horses,  canvass,  and  circus 
appointments  generally,  crossed  the  prairies  with  the 
traders,  and  afterward  performed  in  many  of  the  towns 
and  cities  of  Mexico  with  various  success. 

We  had  scarcely  crossed  the  Chihuahua  trail  before 
we  found  ourselves  upon  a  "  burn,"  or  place  where  the 
prairie  grass  had  been  lately  consumed  by  fire.  Du- 
ring the  day  we  also  noticed  fresh  Indian  "  sign,"  con- 
sisting of  recent  trails ;  and  other  more  subtle  eviden- 
ces, cognisable  only  by  the  instincts  of  old  campaigners, 
convinced  us  that  we  were  not  far  from  a  body  of  sav- 
ages. We  passed  a  small  creek  of  sluggish  water  du- 
ring the  day,  but  at  night  were  obliged  to  encamp  with- 
out any.  Scarcely  had  the  guard-fire  been  kindled,  and 
the  sentinels  posted,  before  it  was  discovered  that  Dr. 
Whittaker,  our  surgeon,  was  missing,  and  no  one  could 
give  the  least  clew  to  his  mysterious  disappearance. 
The  band  was  immediately  ordered  out  to  play  at  dif- 

VOL.  I.— L 


122  STRANGE   VISITERS. 

ferent  commanding  points,  fires  were  kindled  on  the 
highest  rolls  of  the  prairie  around  us  during  the  night, 
and  the  cannon  was  fired  the  next  morning,  with  the 
hope  of  attracting  his  attention ;  but  he  came  not,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  continue  our  march  without  him. 

We  had  not  gone  more  than  three  miles  when  a 
mean,  sneaking,  scurvy-looking  dog  came  crouching 
and  whining  among  us,  and  soon  two  others  made  their 
appearance.  They  were  poor,  miserable  curs,  half 
wolf  apparently,  and  their  homeless,  half-starved,  and 
forlorn  condition  would  have  protected  them  from  the 
operation  of  any  code  of  dog  laws  in  Christendom. 
Their  appearance  created  a  good  deal  of  speculation 
among  us.  That  they  were  Indian  dogs,  and  that  their 
owners  wrere  not  far  distant,  we  were  well  satisfied ; 
but  why  they  came  crying  around  us  and  seeking  our 
protection  it  was  difficult  to  conceive,  for  the  dog  of  the 
red  man  usually  avoids  the  whites. 

But  a  far  more  exciting  incident  than  the  appearance 
of  these  worthless  curs  took  place  during  this  day's 
march.  Our  animals  had  had  no  water  the  night  be- 
fore, and  this  circumstance  made  all  anxious  to  press 
forward  to  a  small  stream  which  had  been  discovered 
by  the  spies.  As  a  consequence,  such  as  had  good 
horses  left  the  ranks — for  wrhen  there  is  no  water  there 
is  no  subordination — the  advance-guard  left  the  wagons 
to  take  care  of  themselves,  the  drivers  pressed  their 
oxen  forward,  in  the  vain  hope  of  keeping  up  with  the 
mounted  men,  and  in  this  way  the  command  soon  be- 
came scattered  for  miles  along  the  undulating  prairie, 
the  different  parties  not  being  even  within  sight  of  each 
other. 

Mr.  Navarro,  who  had  only  mounted  his  horse  the 
last  day  we  were  in  the  Cross  Timbers,  had  now  resu? 


A    CHASE    ON    THE    PRAIRIE.  123 

med  his  seat  in  the  little  wagon,  Fitzgerald  was  still 
driving,  when  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  out  of  sight 
of  any  of  our  friends.  This  circumstance  did  not  in 
the  least  alarm  us,  as  we  anticipated  no  immediate  dan- 
ger, and  the  trail  of  the  advance-guard  was  so  plainly 
visible  on  the  grass  that  we  could  follow  it  at  a  rapid 
pace. 

While  jogging  briskly  along  at  the  foot  of  a  prairie 
ridge,  the  roll  running  nearly  parallel  with  our  course, 
a  buffalo  cow  came  dashing  madly  past,  and  within  but 
a  few  yards  of  us.  Her  tongue  was  out  and  curved 
inward,  while  her  tail  was  carried  aloft,  showing  that 
she  was  running  in  hot  haste,  and  apparently  for  very 
life. 

One  of  the  wagon-curtains  had  at  first  prevented  us 
from  seeing  aught  in  the  rear  of  the  buffalo ;  but  as  she 
swiftly  sped  past  us,  a  pursuer,  in  the  shape  of  an  In- 
dian, who  could  not  be  more  than  ten  yards  behind  her, 
appeared  in  full  view.  The  savage  was  mounted  on  a 
small  but  beautifully-formed  bay  horse,  of  short,  quick 
stride,  yet  fine  and  powerful  action.  He  was  armed 
with  a  long  lance,  which  he  held  poised  in  his  hand, 
wrhile  a  bow  and  quiver  were  strapped  to  his  back. 
His  dress  was  a  buckskin  shirt,  with  leggins  of  the 
same  material,  while  his  long,  black  hair,  although  par- 
tially confined  by  a  yellow  band  about  his  head,  was 
waving  in  the  breeze  created  by  his  rapid  course  along 
the  prairie.  He  had  scarcely  got  clear  of  the  curtain, 
which  confined  our  view  to  objects  only  in  advance  of 
the  wagon,  when  another  Indian  was  discovered  follow- 
ing immediately  in  his  steps. 

"  Los  Indies !  Los  Indies !"  said  Mr.  Navarro,  with 
consternation  depicted  on  his  countenance,  while  he 


124  A    FALSE    ALARM. 

was  eagerly  feeling  about  in  the  bottom  of  the  wagon 
for  his  rifle. 

"  Camanches !"  shouted  Fitz,  at  the  same  time  pum- 
melling and  kicking  the  mules  into  a  break-neck  gallop, 
in  the  hope  of  soon  coming  up  with  the  advance-guard, 
which  now  could  not  be  far  ahead. 

"  The  whole  tribe !"  I  could  not  help  exclaiming,  as 
I  now  looked  out  at  the  hinder  end  of  the  wagon,  and 
saw  still  another  well-mounted  Indian  dashing  down 
the  roll  of  the  prairie  with  the  speed  of  the  wind,  and, 
to  appearance,  making  directly  for  us. 

This  whole  scene  was  enacted  in  a  few  seconds,  and 
in  our  lame  and  unprotected  situation  our  minds  were 
but  ill  at  ease  on  the  score  of  an  attack.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  last  Indian,  and  the  reasonable  supposition 
that  a  large  body  might  be  following  him,  induced  Fitz 
to  kick  and  beat  the  mules  more  zealously  than  before, 
and  at  such  a  rate  of  speed  did  they  go,  that  the  race 
between  us  and  the  foremost  Indian  was  close,  and  for 
a  short  distance  well  contested ;  while  the  buffalo  led 
her  wild  pursuers  along  directly  by  our  side,  and  so 
near  that  the  very  earth,  thrown  from  their  horses' 
hoofs,  rattled  against  the  curtains  of  our  wagon.  The 
savages,  though  they  must  have  been  aware  of  our 
proximity,  did  not  appear  to  bestow  a  single  glance 
upon  an  object  so  strange  as  a  Jersey  wagon  must  have 
been  to  them,  but  kept  their  eyes  steadily  bent  upon 
their  prey. 

With  mad  eagerness  this  strange  race  went  on,  the 
Indians  using  every  endeavour  to  overtake  and  lance 
the  unfortunate  cow,  while  we  were  even  more  anxious 
to  gain  the  protection  of  our  friends.  I  had  noticed, 
not  a  little  to  our  relief,  that  the  hindmost  Indian  wheel- 
ed his  horse  suddenly  on  seeing  our  wagon,  and  re- 


ARRIVAL    AT    CAMP.  125 

traced  his  steps  over  the  roll  of  the  prairie ;  but  the 
other  two  never  deviated  from  their  course.  In  a  race 
of  half  a  mile  they  had  gained,  perhaps,  a  hundred 
yards  on  us.  An  abrupt  turn  in  the  prairie  ridge  now 
concealed  them  from  our  sight,  and  before  we  had 
reached  this  point  the  sharp  reports  of  several  rifles,  in 
quick  succession,  convinced  us  that  our  unexpected 
neighbours  had  been  seen  by  the  advance-guard,  and 
that  succour  was  near  if  needed. 

From  the  time  when  the  Indians  were  first  in  sight, 
until  they  were  lost  to  view  by  a  roll  of  the  prairie, 
could  not  be  more  than  five  minutes,  yet  there  was  an 
ordinary  lifetime  of  excitement  in  the  scene.  Had  we 
known  that  there  were  but  three,  or  even  three  times 
that  number,  and  had  we  been  in  possession  of  our 
limbs,  with  our  rifles  fresh  loaded  and  in  readiness,  we 
should  have  taken  their  sudden  advent  with  less  trepi- 
dation ;  but  neither  Mr.  Navarro  nor  myself  could  more 
than  hop  about  on  one  foot,  and  our  rifles  were  in  the 
very  bottom  of  the  wagon,  where,  in  our  over  haste,  we 
could  not  get  at  them.  We  even  found,  on  reaching 
camp,  that  our  arms  were  not  loaded  ;  a  pleasant  situa- 
tion, truly,  for  one  to  find  himself  in  on  being  attacked 
by  prairie  Indians,  whose  movements  are  characterized 
by  a  startling  rapidity,  and  who  must  be  met  with  the 
utmost  promptness — yet  so  it  was.  We  took  special 
care,  however,  not  to  be  caught  in  like  predicament 
again. 

On  arriving  at  our  encampment,  which  was  hardly  a 
mile  from  the  point  where  the  Indians  had  passed  our 
wagon,  we  found  that  all  was  hurry  and  excitement. 
A  small  but  well-mounted  party  had  already  set  off  in 
pursuit,  and  General  McLeod  had  detailed  another 
party  who  were  on  the  eve  of  mounting.  The  savages 

L2 


126          TAKING  OTHER  MEN'S  GAME. 

had  driven  the  buffalo  directly  into  the  lines,  the  rifle- 
shots we  had  heard  turning  the  course  of  the  pursuers, 
but  not  that  of  the  pursued.  The  cow  was  shot  with  a 
musket  by  one  of  our  officers,  Lieutenant  Scott,  and 
found  to  be  young,  and  exceedingly  fat  and  delicious. 

Our  encampment  was  a  beautiful  grove  of  timber, 
and  near  a  small  stream  of  warm,  turbid  water.  A  few 
yards  below  was  a  large  Indian  camp,  apparently  but 
just  deserted,  some  twenty  or, thirty  half-starved  curs 
still  lingering  about,  which  seemed  too  weak  to  follow 
their  masters.  From  the  appearance  of  the  closely- 
picked  fish,  snake,  terrapin,  and  pole-cat  bones  which 
were  scattered  about,  the  late  occupants  of  the  camp 
had  suffered  much  from  want  of  food,  and  the  dogs 
might  be  supposed  to  have  eaten  nothing  for  weeks. 
The  Indians  who  had  driven  the  buffalo  into  our  lines, 
evidently  belonged  to  this  camp.  The  desperation  of 
their  hunger  was  such  as  to  overcome  any  astonishment 
or  intimidation  the  appearance  of  our  wagon  might  have 
caused,  and  they  never  gave  up  their  chase  until  their 
prey  was  in  our  very  jaws. 

After  enjoying  the  hearty  dinner  which  had  thus  ac- 
cidentally been  thrown  in  our  way,  preparations  were 
made  for  an  evening  march.  The  spies  had  discovered 
a  larger  stream  some  six  miles  distant,  with  excellent 
grazing  in  the  vicinity.  Before  starting,  General  McLeod 
sent  out  two  or  three  parties,  in  different  directions,  in 
quest  of  the  Indians.  Each  party  carried  a  white  flag, 
strong  hopes  being  entertained,  notwithstanding  the  un- 
friendly reception  given  to  the  Indians  who  had  driven 
the  buffalo  into  our  camp,  that  some  of  the  company 
might  be  induced  to  come  in  on  amicable  terms.  Guides 
were  wanted,  not  only  to  inform  us  of  our  present  posi- 
tion, but  to  lead  or  direct  us  onward  by  the  best  and 


RETURN  OF    A    WANDERER.  127 

easiest  route.  Not  an  Indian  could  be  found,  however, 
but  one  of  the  parties  went  as  far  as  the  large  river 
north  of  us.  The  waters  were  described  as  brackish 
and  of  a  brownish  colour,  agreeing,  in  every  way,  with 
the  description  of  Red  River.  The  stream  was  running 
nearly  east,  and  our  west-northwest  course  had  by  this 
time  brought  us  within  some  ten  miles  of  it. 

As  the  command  was  on  the  eve  of  resuming  the 
march,  we  were  all  rejoiced  by  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Whit- 
taker,  for  whose  safety,  now  that  Indians  had  been 
seen  almost  in  our  very  midst,  the  liveliest  apprehen- 
sions were  felt.  Our  worthy  surgeon  told  us  that  he 
had  halted  a  short  distance  from  the  line  of  march  on 
the  previous  day,  for  the  purpose  of  enjoying  a  short 
rest  under  a  small  shade  tree ;  that  he  had  fallen  into  a 
sleep  from  which  he  did  not  awake  for  two  or  three 
hours,  and  that  on  rising  he  felt  that  he  was  "  turned 
round,"  or  in  other  words,  that  he  was  completely  lost, 
and  uncertain  as  to  the  direction  in  which  the  command 
had  come  or  gone.  In  this  state  of  doubt  he  had  taken 
a  course  which  he  supposed  to  be  the  right  one,  and 
when  night  came  he  hid  himself  in  a  quiet  hollow,  until 
daylight  should  allow  him  to  continue  the  uncertain 
task  of  finding  his  companions.  Fresh  Indian  sign  he 
had  seen  in  every  direction,  and  during  the  night  his 
horse,  the  end  of  whose  rope  he  had  made  fast  to  one 
of  his  arms,  gave  well-known  indications  that  an  enemy 
was  lurking  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  With 
the  early  dawn  the  doctor  continued  his  hap-hazard 
search.  He  had  a  good  horse  and  rifle,  with  some 
twenty  rounds  of  powder  and  ball,  but  he  was  far  from 
being  a  skilful  woodsman.  Fortunately,  I  might  say 
providentially,  he  came  upon  our  trail,  although  at  the 
time  he  was  in  doubt  which  direction  we  had  taken. 


128  AN    ECLIPSE. 

An  examination  of  the  footprints,  however,  gave  him  the 
course,  and  two  hours'  hard  riding  brought  him  in  safe- 
ty to  our  camp.* 

Having  crossed  the  sluggish  stream  upon  which  the 
Indian  camp  was  situated,  we  journeyed  on  some  two 
hours  until  we  reached  the  new  quarters  found  for  us 
by  our  spies.  This  situation  was  in  a  beautiful  cove  of 
the  prairie,  nearly  surrounding  a  skirting  of  timber.  Our 
camp  was  upon  the  banks  of  what  appeared  to  be  a 
large  stream  in  the  rainy  season,  though  now  there  was 
but  little  water  in  its  bed.  Its  course  was  nearly  north- 
east, and  those  among  us  who  pretended  to  know  any- 
thing about  the  country  at  once  concluded  that  it  was 
the  Wichita,f  a  stream  that  was  said  to  empty  into  Red 
River  high  up,  and  about  which  but  little  was  known 
except  by  trappers  and  Indians.  Unfortunately  for  us 
we  had  none  of  these  in  our  company.  Finding  excel- 
lent grass,  water,  and  timber  upon  the  banks  of  this 
stream,  we  remained  the  next  day  to  recruit  our  cattle 
and  repair  some  of  the  wagons.  The  spies  were  sent 
out,  in  the  mean  time,  to  examine  the  country  and  find  a 
good  route.  At  night  we  had  an  eclipse  of  the  moon, 
without  any  one  knowing  that  such  an  occurrence  was 
to  take  place ;  the  next  morning  many  and  queer  were 
the  speculations,  especially  among  the  guard,  as  to  what 
caused  the  singular  appearance  of  the  heavens. 

Although  still  unable  to  bear  much  weight  upon  my 
foot,  or  walk  without  great  pain,  I  made  out  to  mount 

*  Dr.  Whittaker  has  since  paid  the  debt  of  nature.  He  was  liberated  at 
the  city  of  Mexico  with  the  rest  of  the  Santa  Fe  prisoners,  but  died  at  Puente 
Nacional,  of  yellow  fever,  on  his  way  home.  He  was  a  generous-hearted  and 
brave  man,  and  left  many  warm  friends. 

t  On  some  of  the  maps  the  reader  will  find  this  river  put  down  as  the  Big 
Washita.  I  believe  the  correct  spelling  and  pronunciation  to  be  Wichita,  bul 
the  general  course  of  the  stream  has  been  wrongly  laid  down. 


A   WILD-GOOSE    CHASE.  129 

my  horse,  with  assistance,  on  the  3d  of  August,  and 
bade  farewell  to  the  old  Jersey  wagon  in  which  I  had 
journeyed  nearly  six  weeks.  Scarcely  had  we  gone 
three  miles  that  morning,  before  a  small  herd  of  buffalo 
was  seen  quietly  feeding  in  a  valley  to  the  right.  It 
was  the  first  opportunity  that  had  been  offered  me  of 
enjoying  the  excitement  of  a  chase,  and  I  immediately 
dashed  after  them  ;  but  the  hard  gait  of  my  horse  over 
the  rough  prairie  pained  my  ankle  so  much  that  I  was 
obliged  to  give  it  up. 

Another  chase  came  off,  however,  on  the  same  day, 
which,  for  excitement,  fairly  went  beyond  anything  in 
the  way  of  horse-racing.  One  of  the  volunteers  had  set 
out  in  search  of  water  by  himself,  and  a  short  time  after, 
without  knowing  that  he  had  gone,  Major  Howard  left 
the  command  on  the  same  errand.  By  accident  they 
came  suddenly  upon  each  other  in  a  little  valley,  and 
the  man,  mistaking  Major  H.  for  an  Indian,  set  off 
at  full  speed.  The  latter,  also  thinking  the  other  an  In- 
dian, gave  chase  with  a  yell,  and  away  they  bounded 
across  the  prairies  as  fast  as  their  horses  would  carry 
them.  The  first  part  of  the  chase  was  plainly  seen  by 
many  of  us,  and  created  the  greatest  interest.  The  ma- 
jor was  by  far  the  best  mounted  of  the  two,  and  was 
also  a  bold  and  dashing  rider ;  but  he  was  a  much 
heavier  man  than  the  pursued,  and  this  gave  the  latter 
an  advantage.  The  chase  continued  until  both  were  out 
of  sight,  Major  H.  slowly  gaining  upon  the  supposed  In- 
dian by  his  superior  riding.  On  one  or  two  occasions 
the  former  raised  a  pistol  to  shoot  the  other,  and  nothing 
prevented  it  but  a  desire  to  bring  him  into  camp  alive. 
Finally  he  came  up  with  the  chase,  both  horses  nearly 
broken  down,  when  the  frightened  volunteer  turned  his 
pale  face  imploringly  around,  and  recognised,  in  his 


130  A   PERILOUS    MISTAKE. 

pursuer,  the  well-known  major,  with  a  pistol  cocked  in 
his  right  hand. 

"  Wh — wh — why,  major,"  he  exclaimed,  stammering 
from  fright — "  Why,  major,  is  that  you  ?  D — d — don't 
shoot  me.  Is  it  really  you,  major  ?" 

"  Certainly  it  is,  and  I'm  not  going  to  shoot  you ;  but 
what,  in  the  name  of  common  sense,  did  you  take  me 
for,  and  what  induced  you  to  run  so  fast  ?" 

"  I — I — I — thought  you  was  an  Indian — indeed  I  did," 
replied  the  man,  still  pale  and  trembling  from  his  recent 
terror. 

"  Well,"  continued  the  major,  "  I  thought  you  an  In- 
dian too,  and  you  ought  to  consider  yourself  lucky  that 
I  did  not  shoot  you  for  one." 

In  the  course  of  an  hour  Major  Howard  rode  into 
camp  with  his  prisoner,  who  was  really  half  frightened 
to  death.  In  fact,  the  man  afterward  died  on  the  road, 
and  those  who  knew  him  best,  said  that  he  never  got 
over  the  "  scare."  It  may  appear  singular  that  two 
white  men  could  mistake  each  other  for  Indians  ;  but  it 
should  be  recollected  that  we  were  in  an  Indian  range, 
and  the  small  parties  that  went  out  were  in  constant 
expectation  of  meeting  gangs  of  them.  It  should  also 
be  borne  in  mind  that  the  dresses  we  wore  were  any- 
thing and  everything  that  came  handy,  and  conduced 
most  to  our  comfort  while  upon  the  solitary  prairies. 
After  being  out  two  months  upon  a  campaign,  any  man 
will  regard  his  personal  convenience  more  than  his  per- 
sonal appearance,  and  hence  we  all  more  resembled  In- 
dians in  dress  than  civilized  men.  The  hot  sun  and 
winds  of  the  prairies  had  also  imbrowned  our  faces  to 
a  light  mahogany  colour,  while  our  hair,  allowed  to  re- 
main uncut,  in  every  case  where  it  was  black  made 
the  resemblance  to  the  red  man  still  more  close  and 
striking. 


THE    MEXICAN    GUIDE.  131 

On  arriving  at  camp  that  evening,  it  was  found  that 
Frank  Combs  was  missing,  and  with  him  young  Cur- 
tis Caldwell,  son  of  the  old  captain  of  the  spy  company. 
Knowing  as  we  did  that  so  many  enemies  were  in  our 
neighbourhood,  their  absence  caused  great  solicitude ; 
but  they  came  in  shortly  alter  our  guard  fires  had  been 
kindled. 

About  nine  o'clock  at  night  we  had  a  tremendous 
shower,  which  continued  until  near  daylight.  When 
the  water  first  came  trickling  through  my  blanket,  I 
thought  of  snug  rooms,  clean  bed,  moscheto  bars,  and  all 
that  sort  of  thing ;  but  while  thinking  of  them  I  fell 
asleep,  and  never  had  a  better  night's  rest  in  my  life, 
although  I  awoke  at  daybreak  wet  to  the  skin.  The 
heavier  part  of  the  shower  was  over  when  we  crawled 
from  our  soaked  blankets ;  there  was  yet  a  misty,  driz- 
zling rain,  however,  and  we  were  compelled  to  continue 
the  march  that  morning  in  wet  clothes. 

From  the  higher  rolls  of  the  prairies  we  could  now 
distinctly  see,  to  the  right  and  in  a  northern  direction, 
the  dim  outline  of  a  belt  of  timber  running  nearly  par- 
allel with  our  course,  supposed  by  all  to  be  the  skirting 
of  Red  River.  A  Mexican  named  Carlos,  a  native  of 
Taos.  in  New  Mexico,  who  was  attached  to  one  of  the 
companies,  now  for  the  first  time  said  that  he  had  trap- 
ped up  and  down  Red  River,  and  knew  every  part 
of  it ;  that  the  country  around  us  resembled  in  every 
respect  the  vicinity  of  that  stream,  and  that  he  had  no 
doubt  we  were  now  close  upon  the  Red  River  bottoms. 
So  plausible  were  his  stories,  and  his  knowledge  of  the 
country  appeared  so  extensive,  that  he  was  immediate- 
ly transferred  to  the  spy  company ;  and  here  I  might 
add,  that  Carlos  had  been  employed  as  mail-carrier  be- 
tween Austin  and  San  Antonio  for  several  years,  and 


132  INTERVIEW    WITH    INDIANS. 

had  always  been  found  an  honest  and  trustworthy  fel- 
low. This  circumstance  was  related  when  his  claims 
as  a  person  entitled  to  credit  were  canvassed  in  camp, 
and  went  far  to  establish  for  him  a  character  for  prob- 
ity which  few  of  his  countrymen  of  the  same  class  re- 
ceive or  deserve. 

As  we  desired  neither  to  cross  the  river  to  our  right, 
nor  approach  too  near  its  wooded  bottoms,  our  course 
was  now  altered  a  point  or  two — perhaps  more,  as  I  no- 
ticed we  were  frequently  travelling  a  little  south  of 
west.  The  fog,  clouds,  and  drizzling  rain  of  the  early 
morning  had  dispersed  before  the  middle  of  the  fore- 
noon, the  sun  coming  out  intolerably  hot.  Some  two 
hours  after  meridian,  the  advance-guard,  with  which  I 
was  now  in  company,  came  up  with  the  spies,  comfort- 
ably encamped  in  a  small  grove  of  timber  on  the  mar- 
gin of  a  dry  creek,  where  they  were  anxiously  awaiting 
our  approach. 

On  the  arrival  of  General  McLeod,  the  spies  had  an 
exciting  adventure  to  relate.  They  had  met  and  held  a 
parley  with  a  body  of  Indian  warriors,  about  their  own 
number,  all  well  armed  and  mounted,  many  of  them 
upon  large  and  powerful  American  horses  which  had 
evidently  been  stolen.  They  were  large,  athletic  men, 
sat  boldly  and  proudly  upon  their  fat  and  well-trained 
steeds  ;  and  while  many  of  them  had  American  rifles  in 
their  hands,  and  were  far  better  dressed  than  the  Ca- 
manches,  Cayguas,  and  other  prairie  Indians,  their  man- 
ner was  stately  and  overbearing.  Their  quick  and  ex- 
perienced eyes,  as  they  ran  over  the  jaded  and  travel- 
worn  animals  of  the  spies,  at  once  convinced  them  that 
they  could  outrun,  if  not  outfight  them,  and  hence 
their  daring  and  insolent  behaviour. 

Not  one  of  the  Indians  could  speak  English ;  but 


THEIR    SUSPICIOUS    DEPORTMENT.  133 

there  were  two  or  three  of  them  who  had  picked  up  a 
smattering  of  Spanish,  and  Carlos,  from  the  affinity  their 
language  bore  to  the  Camanche,  which  he  partially  un- 
derstood, was  enabled  to  carry  on  a  conversation. 
They  frankly  declared  that  they  had  been  watching 
our  movements  three  or  four  days,  and  with  cool  ef- 
frontery asked  the  spies  whether  we  had  come  for 
peace  or  war.  The  answer  was,  that  our  intentions 
were  peaceful ;  that  we  were  journeying  towards  Santa 
Fe  with  merchandise,  and  had  many  wagons  and  a 
large  force  a  short  distance  in  the  rear.  The  Indians 
retorted  by  saying  that  they  knew  all  this  well  enough 
— they  had  seen  and  measured  our  entire  strength. 
They  were  next  asked  if  they  could  direct  us  on  our 
journey  by  the  best  route,  which  would  afford  the  most 
grass  and  water  ;  all  the  Texans  wanted  was  to  culti- 
vate a  peaceful  understanding  with  these  men,  and  to 
obtain  their  assistance  in  furthering  us  on  our  journey.* 
The  questions  of  the  spies  were  answered  in  a  sullen, 
swaggering  manner,  so  much  so  that  Captain  Caldwell 
— than  whom  no  man  in  Texas  better  understood  the 
treacherous  and  uncertain  "  ways"  of  every  tribe  upon 
its  borders — at  once  remarked  to  his  men,  in  a  low 
tone  and  in  English,  that  "  these  fellows  looked  ugly 
and  jighty,  and  that  they  must  all  keep  an  eye  upon 
their  rifles,  and  be  ready  to  give  them  a  volley  should 
he  make  a  signal."  It  was  thought,  by  many  of  the 
spies,  that  some  one  of  the  Indians  could  understand 
English,  as  a  movement  towards  examining  the  flints 
and  caps  upon  the  rifles  of  the  former  was  met  by  a 
corresponding  movement  on  the  part  of  the  red  men. 

*  General  McLeod  was  really  anxious  to  encourage  friendly  relations  with 
these  savages ;  but  they  appeared  to  be  far  from  disposed  to  reciprocate, 
probably  distrusting  his  motives. 

VOL.  I.— M 


134  AN    INDIAN    VILLAGE. 

Captain  Caldwell  next  asked  his  new  acquaintances 
to  what  tribe  they  belonged.  They  told  him  they  were 
Wacoes,  and  volunteered  the  information  that  a  party 
of  two  hundred  Camanches  had  been  residing  near 
them  for  some  little  time,  but  that  they  had  recently 
left  for  the  more  western  prairies.  In  addition,  they 
said  that  they  themselves  were  now  out  on  a  hunting 
expedition,  and  that  their  village  was  a  long  way  off. 
Captain  C.  now  requested  them  to  remain  with  him  un- 
til our  commander  arrived,  as  the  latter  was  extremely 
anxious  to  see  and  have  a  friendly  talk  with  them.  A 
few  muttered  sentences  passed  between  them  in  their 
own  language  at  this  request,  when  the  principal  chief 
replied  that  he  would  return  at  night  and  visit  our 
camp  and  its  leader.  The  fellows  then  went  off  at  a 
brisk  gallop,  and  were  soon  lost  to  sight  by  an  undula- 
tion of  the  prairie. 

Anxious  to  ascertain  the  movements  of  these  Indians, 
Captain  Caldwell,  the  moment  they  had  disappeared, 
sent  out  Tom  Hancock  and  another  trusty  spy  to  watch 
them.  They  returned  in  an  hour,  and  said  that  they 
had  discovered  a  large  village  some  five  miles  distant 
in  a  northern  direction,  situated  upon  the  banks  of  a 
stream,  and  that,  from  the  general  appearance  of  the 
country,  we  should  be  compelled  to  pass,  with  our  wag- 
ons, directly  through  the  town.  Our  officers  now  held 
a  short  and  hurried  consultation,  at  which  it  was  deter- 
mined to  despatch  fifty  of  our  best-mounted  men  direct- 
ly to  the  village.  A  flag  of  truce  was  taken,  so  that  an 
amicable  understanding  might  be  brought  about,  if  pos- 
sible, with  fellows  who  could  make  themselves  exceed- 
ingly troublesome  if  they  felt  so  disposed,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  party  examined  well  their  arms,  to  be 
ready  in  case  the  Indians  should  receive  them  in  a  hos- 


A   FLIGHT.  135 

tile  manner.  As  I  was  now  able  to  ride,  and  felt  anx- 
ious to  be  among  the  first  to  enter  the  village,  I  mount- 
ed my  horse  and  accompanied  the  party.  The  ad- 
vance-guard under  General  McLeod  followed  at  a  con- 
venient distance,  ready  to  support  us  should  hostilities 
ensue. 

When  within  a  couple  of  miles  of  the  Indian  village 
a  beautiful  spectacle  suddenly  presented  itself.  Before 
us  was  a  large  and  delightful  valley,  through  which  a 
river  coursed  along,  with  just  trees  enough  to  relieve 
the  eye  without  concealing  any  of  the  beauties.  In  a 
large  bend  of  the  stream  the  village  was  situated,  and 
all  around  were  the  corn-fields,  pumpkin  and  melon 
patches  of  the  inhabitants.  In  the  distance,  on  the  other 
side,  the  prairie  rose  gently,  without  a  tree  or  bush  to 
destroy  the  uniformity  of  the  rich  carpeting  of  green 
with  which  it  was  covered  ;  in  a  western  and  south- 
western direction,  exactly  on  our  course  should  we  not 
cross  the  river,  the  country  appeared  rugged  and  bro- 
ken, and  offering  the  greatest  difficulty  to  our  progress 
with  the  wagons. 

As  we  descended  the  long  wave  of  the  prairie  which 
overlooked  the  valley,  we  could  see  that  all  was  bustle 
and  commotion  in  the  village,  now  scarce  a  mile  distant. 
Suddenly  a  considerable  party  was  seen,  dashing  off 
to  the  southwest,  accompanied  by  a  large  troop  of 
horses.  We  were  not  near  enough  to  distinguish,  with 
certainty,  but  saw  enough  to  convince  us  that  this 
party  was  composed  of  the  women  and  children,  as 
well  as  old  men  of  the  tribe,  and  that  with  these  they 
were  despatching  all  their  superfluous  horses.  This 
seemed  to  indicate  that  our  own  reception  would  be  any- 
thing but  pacific,  as  the  warriors  always  send  off  their 
families  and  movable  property  when  they  themselves 


136  A    DESERTED    VILLAGE. 

make  a  stand ;  but  our  party  kept  steadily  on.  Some 
of  the  older  Indian  fighters  cast  glances  back,  to  meas- 
ure the  amount  of  support  we  might  receive  from  the 
command  in  case  we  should  be  attacked,  while  all  look- 
ed well  to  their  powder-horns  and  bullet-pouches,  and 
examined  their  flints  and  percussion-caps,  to  see  that  all 
was  right.  In  low  and  hurried  tones  one  volunteer 
would  ask  another  for  a  few  caps  or  ball  patches,  or 
for  a  spare  flint,  and  the  whole  face  of  things  began  to 
assume  an  aspect  decidedly  belligerent,  when  suddenly 
another  party  was  seen  dashing  from  the  village  and 
following  directly  in  the  footsteps  of  the  former  and 
larger  throng.  We  were  now  within  less  than  half  a 
mile,  and  it  was  evident  enough  that  the  latter  party 
was  composed  of  warriors  only,  or  grown  men.  Be- 
fore we  had  reached  the  river,  which  bounded  the  vil- 
lage on  its  southern  side,  still  another  party  was  seen 
flying  off  in  a  northern  direction,  ascending  the  undula- 
ting prairie  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  town. 

From  these  movements  it  now  appeared  evident  that 
the  Indians  were  deserting  their  heretofore  peaceful 
home  ;  yet  thinking  there  might  still  be  some  of  the  tribe 
remaining,  Van  Ness  and  Carlos  were  sent  forward  with 
the  white  flag.  As  they  entered  the  village  a  solitary 
Indian,  the  last  of  his  tribe  that  had  remained  to  this 
time,  was  seen  emerging  from  the  opposite  side  and 
dashing  off  at  lightning  speed  on  the  trail  of  his  broth- 
ers. Thus,  in  certainly  less  than  half  an  hour,  was 
the  Wacoe  village  deserted  by  all  its  inhabitants,  and  in 
even  less  time  not  one  of  them  could  be  seen  in  any  di- 
rection upon  the  prairies. 

A  small  party  of  us  crossed  the  river  and  entered  the 
deserted  town.  Everything  gave  evidence  of  the  hasty 
departure  of  the  inhabitants.  Fires  were  still  burning 


INDIAN    HUSBANDRY.  137 

in  the  vicinity  of  every  lodge  or  wigwam,  and  earthen 
pots  were  found,  in  which  pumpkins  were  still  boiling. 
Deer,  antelope,  and  wolf  skins,  sewed  up  and  full  of  corn, 
were  left  in  their  haste,  and  everything  betokened  the 
unexpectedness  of  our  approach,  and  the  suddenness  of 
their  flight.  Not  having  time  to  examine  everything  as 
closely  as  I  wished,  I  recrossed  the  river,  with  the  in- 
tention of  visiting  the  village  at  an  early  hour  in  the 
morning.  The  command  had  arrived,  and  a  camping- 
ground  been  chosen  by  the  time  I  reached  the  opposite 
side  of  the  stream.  The  site  of  this  camp  was  near  a 
corn-field,  the  position  rendered  strong  by  a  grove  of 
heavy  timber  immediately  in  our  rear.  The  river  would 
have  been  crossed  had  there  been  a  sufficiency  of  grass 
on  the  opposite  side  for  our  animals.  Strict  orders 
were  given  not  to  touch  or  molest  anything  belonging 
to  the  Indians,  and  at  the  same  time,  fearing  lest  they 
might  undertake  a  night  surprise,  every  preparation 
was  made  to  guard  against  such  uncertain  neighbours. 
We  reasonably  anticipated  that  the  Wacoes  would  at 
least  make  an  attempt  to  stampede  and  steal  some  of  our 
horses  and  cattle ;  yet  the  guard  were  not  disturbed, 
and  the  night  passed  off  quietly. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  visited  the  village  on  the  oth- 
er side  of  the  river.  The  water  of  this  stream  was 
slightly  brackish,  enough  to  make  it  unpalatable  as  a 
beverage,  but  for  boiling  meat  or  making  coffee  it  an- 
swered very  well.  We  felt  confident  that  the  Indians 
must  have  a  supply  of  fresh  water  near,  but  were  un- 
able to  find  the  springs  from  which  they  procured  it. 
The  village  itself  was  situated  at  the  western  extremity 
of  a  large  bend  in  the  river,  and  although  the  bend  must 
have  been  some  five  or  six  miles  in  length,  by  nearly 
two  in  breadth  in  the  wider  parts,  every  portion  of  it 
M2 


138  CONSTRUCTION    OP    THE   WIGWAMS. 

appeared  to  be  under  cultivation,  and  the  land  was 
extremely  fertile.  The  purlieus  of  the  village  appear- 
ed to  be  kept  clean,  which  can  be  said  of  few  Indian 
towns. 

The  wigwams — or  houses,  rather,  for  they  really  de- 
serve that  name — appeared  to  be  built  in  rows,  and  had 
an  air  of  neatness  and  regularity  about  them  such  as  I 
had  never  observed  before  in  an  Indian  village.  They 
were  of  conical  shape,  some  twenty  or  twenty-five  feet 
in  height,  and  of  about  the  same  diameter  on  the  floor, 
the  materials  used  in  their  construction  being  poles,  buf- 
falo hides,  and  rushes.  The  poles  were  stuck  in  the 
ground,  and  after  running  up  perpendicularly  some  ten 
feet,  were  bent  over  so  as  to  converge  to  a  point  at  the 
top,  thus  giving  a  regular  dome-like  slope  to  carry  off 
the  rains.  Over  these,  buffalo  hides  in  some  instances 
were  made  fast,  and  these  again  were  covered  with  long 
rushes — thus  making  thatched  cottages,  impervious  to 
dust  or  rain. 

Within  many  of  the  houses,  at  an  elevation  of  four  or 
five  feet  from  the  ground,  was  a  row  of  berths  extend- 
ing nearly  the  whole  circuit,  and  very  neatly  got  up. 
The  bottom  of  these  berths  appeared  to  be  of  rough  bas- 
ket work,  the  frame  which  supported  them  being  of 
large  poles.  As  all  the  cooking  for  the  family  was  done 
out  of  doors,  their  lodges  had  neither  fireplaces  nor 
chimneys.  The  inhabitants  had  carried  off  the  princi- 
pal part  of  their  furniture,  but  had  still  left  enough,  from 
the  haste  with  which  they  departed,  to  convince  us  that 
for  Indians  they  lived  in  much  comfort,  and  not  a  little 
style.  Attached  to  each  residence,  and  immediately  in 
the  rear,  was  another  building  of  smaller  dimensions,  the 
lower  part  of  which  was  evidently  used  as  a  corn-crib 
and  storehouse.  In  these  buildings  we  found  a  quan- 


AN   INDIAN    FLUTE.  139 

tity  of  corn  and  pumpkins,  besides  finely-cured  venison, 
antelope  and  buffalo  meat.  Above  the  corn-crib  was  a 
species  of  balcony,  although  without  a  railing,  and  this 
led  into  a  small  room  in  the  second  story,  if  I  may  so 
call  it.  One  of  the  company  said  that  this  room  was 
the  sleeping  apartment  of  the  young  and  marriageable 
squaws  of  the  family,  and  that  their  mother  kept  a  lad- 
der by  which  they  climbed  up  to  it  at  night  and  were 
let  down  in  the  morning.  This  story  may  be  true  and 
may  be  not — I  tell  it  as  it  was  told  me. 

In  one  of  the  main  buildings  an  instrument,  evidently 
intended  for  musical  purposes,  was  found.  It  was  made 
of  cane,  and  in  some  respects  resembled  a  fife,  although 
much  longer.  It  had  five  holes  for  the  fingers,  besides 
a  mouth-piece  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  a  clarionet. 
The  notes  of  the  instrument  were  nearly  as  soft  as  those 
of  a  flageolet,  the  workmanship  extremely  neat,  and 
evincing  not  only  ingenuity,  but  taste  ;  and  after  hearing 
the  story  of  the  ladder,  I  could  not  help  thinking  that 
this  same  instrument  had,  perchance,  while  in  the  hands 
of  some  Indian  Romeo,  discoursed  most  eloquent  music 
to  a  belle  of  the  tribe,  who,  like  Juliet,  would  step  out 
on  her  balcony  and  pour  forth  her  love  and  fealty  to  her 
soul's  idol  in  return  for  this  sweet  token  of  his  homage. 
He  would  then,  very  possibly,  tell  of  his  flaming,  burn- 
ing, and  inextinguishable  passion — recount  to  her  his 
perilous  'scapes  in  the  chase — talk  of  buffalo  hunts,  mus- 
tangs, war-paths,  bear-fights,  corn  dances,  and  scalps ; 
while  she,  eagerly  devouring  each  word,  would  throw 
back  volumes  of  tender  affection — tell  what  she  would 
do  for  him,  where  she  would  go  for  him,  how  she  was 
willing  to  pack  meat,  make  moccasins,  hoe  corn,  dig  po- 
tatoes, and  do  out-door  work  generally,  besides  sitting 
up  of  nights  for  his  sake,  and  for  no  other  person's  sake 


140  INDIAN    LOVERS. 

would  she  do  a  thing.  He  would  then,  as  in  duty  bound, 
drop  on  one  knee,  lay  down  his  lute,  and  conjure  her  to 
fly — instantly  fly  with  him,  on  a  chosen  steed,  to  the  far- 
thest prairies — fly  anywhere,  everywhere,  so  that  she  was 
with  him,  and  only  him.  With  beating  heart  and  lip  trem- 
bling with  emotion,  she  would  tell  him  that  her  mother 
had  carried  off  the  ladder,  and  that  she  dared  not,  even 
for  his  sake,  run  the  risk  of  breaking  her  neck  by  jump- 
ing down.  Such  might  have  been  a  scene  to  which 
this  humble  instrument  I  now  held  in  my  hand  had  been 
a  witness ;  and  then,  again,  it  might  not. 

Little  skilled  am  I  in  the  vocabulary  of  an  Indian 
girl's  pledges  of  love  ;  but  as  in  these  affairs  between 
parties  in  civilized  life  each  makes  out  as  long  a  cata- 
logue as  possible  of  what  he  or  she  intends  to  do  to 
make  the  other  completely  happy,  it  is  more  than  prob- 
able that  the  case  is  the  same  among  the  uncivilized 
children  of  the. prairies.  Love  is  a  very  pretty  theme 
for  poets  to  dwell  upon,  and  many  of  them  have  been 
known  to  live  upon  it  in  the  absence  of  more  substan- 
tial food ;  but  there  is  far  more  of  matter-of-fact  even 
in  this  same  love  than  your  sentimentalists  would  make 
us  believe,  and  occasionally  those  afflicted  with  it  have 
a  decided  preference  for  mush,  mutton,  and  safety  over 
moonbeams,  moss-banks,  and  incensed  mothers — and 
hence  the  Indian  girl's  repugnance  to  leaping  the  bal- 
cony. This  is  all  mere  speculation — the  reader  may 
take  it  for  what  it  is  worth,  while  I  return  to  my  nar- 
rative. 

We  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  the  pleasant  village, 
examining  the  houses,  implements,  manner  of  cooking, 
cultivating  the  land,  and  other  matters.  I  will  not  say 
that  the  Wacoes  know  as  much  of  civilization  as  the 
Cherokees  or  Choctaws,  who  have  had  the  opportunity 


aOME    ACCOUNT   OF   THE    WACOES.  141 

of  intercourse  with  the  whites ;  have  had  their  eyes 
opened  somewhat  to  the  plan  of  civil  government  by 
their  treaty  dealings  with  the  United  States,  send  been 
made  to  know  something  of  the  system  of  the  Christian 
religion  by  the  pious  zeal  of  missionaries.  I  have  seen 
all  these  tribes,  and  while  the  Wacoes  did  not  exhibit 
any  of  those  fruits  of  civilization  which  too  often  mar 
the  virgin  leaf  of  those  other  nations,  I  confess  that  I 
saw  evidence  of  a  more  elevated  kind  of  humanity  than 
I  had  supposed  was  to  be  found  anywhere  among  the 
original  Americans. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  village  was  a  house  of  larger 
dimensions,  and  more  elaborate  workmanship  than  any 
of  the  other  dwellings.  This  may  have  been  the  gen- 
eral council-house,  or  the  abode  of  the  medicine  man  of 
the  tribe,  or  it  may  have  been  the  residence  of  their 
principal  chief,  who  must  needs,  as  is  the  custom  in  more 
civilized  nations,  live  in  better  quarters  and  more  costly 
style  than  his  subjects.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  was  there, 
and  afforded  additional  food  for  the  mind  to  speculate 
upon. 

The  Wacoes,  although  not  a  numerous,  are  certainly 
a  brave  and  warlike,  and  consequently  a  strong  tribe 
when  compared  with  the  Pawnees  and  Camanches. 
Like  the  latter,  they  are  said  to  be  always  on  horseback, 
and  equally  well  skilled  in  the  uses  of  that  noble  animal ; 
but  here  the  comparison  ends,  for  the  Wacoes  have 
comfortable  houses,  and  corn-fields,  and  many  luxuries 
to  which  their  prairie  neighbours  are  strangers.  The 
Wacoes  have  never  been  corrupted  by  association  with 
the  whites,  nor  made  weak  and  effeminate  by  the  use 
of  alcohol ;  and  here  again  they  enjoy  advantages.  In 
the  early  history  of  Texas  they  were  at  peace  with  the 
inhabitants  of  that  Republic.  Large  hunting  parties  of 


142  RED   RIVER. 

the  tribe  were  frequently  seen  within  her  limits,  and 
every  relation  appeared  to  bring  additional  peace  and 
harmony,  until  an  unfortunate  affray  occurred  which 
induced  them  to  dig  up  the  tomahawk,  and  since  that 
time  many  have  been  the  inroads  they  have  committed 
along  the  northern  frontiers  of  Texas. 

I  heard  it  stated  that  the  whites  were  guilty  of  bring- 
ing on  this  war  by  some  act  of  bad  faith  towards  the 
Wacoes,  and  the  wound  they  then  received  has  never 
been  healed.  From  the  fact  of  their  hurrying  off  their 
women  and  children,  as  well  as  their  large  cavallada  of 
horses  and  mules,  it  was  evident  that  they  placed  no  re- 
liance in  our  assertion  that  we  came  among  them  with 
pacific  intentions — they  had  been  deceived  by  our  men 
once,  and  Indian-like,  looked  for  another  violation  of 
our  words. 

The  village  we  visited  probably  contained  three  or 
four  hundred  inhabitants,  and  there  were  others,  both 
up  and  down  the  river,  which  we  could  see  in  the  dis- 
tance. A  crossing  of  the  river  was  effected  about  ten 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  after  winding  slowly  through 
the  village,  the  command  continued  the  journey  along 
the  fertile  bottoms  of  the  river,  our  course  a  little  south 
of  west.  Carlos  said  confidently  that  it  was  the  Red 
River,  and  no  one  doubted,  for  a  moment,  that  we  were 
upon  the  banks  of  that  stream,  some  distance  above 
Coffee's  Upper  Station.  The  latter  is  a  well-known 
trading-house  high  up  on  Red  River,  and  the  place 
where  the  different  Indian  tribes  rendezvous  to  barter 
off  their  skins  for  rifles,  blankets,  and  ammunition. 

At  night  we  encamped  upon  the  banks  of  the  stream. 
Although  the  waters  of  the  river,  as  I  have  before  re- 
marked, were  brackish,  a  pure  and  fresh  stream  was 
discovered  close  by.  This  was  used  by  the  men,  but 


INDIAN    DREAD    OF    CANNON.  143 

the  cattle  and  horses  would  not  touch  it  when  they  could 
obtain  the  river  water. 

All  the  spoil  we  took  from  the  Waco  village  con- 
sisted of  a  few  pumpkins ;  the  houses  and  everything 
about  them  were  left  untouched.  Fine  fish  were  now 
caught  in  the  stream,  which,  with  our  regular  rations 
of  beef  and  the  pumpkins  we  had  procured  in  the  morn- 
ing, gave  us  a  feast.  Many  of  my  readers  may  think 
this  but  a  meager  feast — boiled  beef,  fried  fish,  and  boil- 
ed pumpkins — but  they  should  recollect  that  we  had 
eaten  no  vegetable  substance  for  nearly  two  months, 
and  that  even  fried  catfish  was  a  rare  dainty. 

During  the  day,  Indians  were  seen  scouting  about 
on  the  distant  hills,  watching  our  movements  ;  but  our 
position  was  a  strong  one,  and  although  we  anticipated, 
no  one  feared  the  consequences  of  a  night  attack,  far- 
ther than  the  danger  of  having  our  horses  run  off. 

The  fact  that  the  Indians  did  not  make  an  attack 
upon  us,  or  attempt  to  steal  our  horses,  was  probably 
owing  to  the  circumstance  that  they  had  seen  our  six- 
pounder.  It  is  well  known  that  the  Camanches  and 
other  prairie  tribes  have  the  greatest  dread  of  cannon, 
and  can  never  be  induced  to  approach  within  a  mile  of 
them.  The  story  is  told  that  a  large  party  of  Caman- 
ches attacked,  many  years  since,  one  of  the  early  Mis- 
souri expeditions  journeying  with  a  small  cannon,  load- 
ed with  grapeshot  and  rifle-bullets. 

So  greatly  did  the  savages  outnumber  the  traders, 
that  they  felt  confident  of  an  easy  and  sudden  victory, 
and  impressed  with  this  belief  attacked  them  in  a  solid 
body,  and  with  their  usual  yells.  The  traders  calmly 
waited  until  they  had  approached  within  a  few  yards, 
when  they  let  fly  among  them  the  unexpected  shower 
of  missiles.  The  gun  was  well  directed,  and  sent  a 


144  ORIGIN    OF   THIS    FEAR. 

large  number  of  the  Indians  tumbling  to  the  ground. 
Those  who  escaped  were  so  panic-stricken  at  the 
strange  discharge,  which  carried  such  fearful  destruc- 
tion to  their  ranks,  that  they  instantly  wheeled  and  fled, 
and  could  not  be  induced  to  renew  the  attack.  Over- 
rating, as  they  did,  the  power  of  a  cannon  from  the  ef- 
fect of  this  well-directed  and  fortunate  shot,  from  that 
day  to  the  present  no  party  of  the  tribe  has  ever  dared 
attack  openly  any  company  fortunate  enough  to  pos- 
sess a  fieldpiece.  The  fame  of  the  big  gun  of  the 
whites,  so  it  is  said,  has  spread  from  the  Camanches  to 
the  neighbouring  tribes,  and  to  such  an  extent  has  the 
story  of  its  powers  been  magnified,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
get  an  Indian  within  its  utmost  range. 


MARCH    ALONG    RED   RIVER.  145 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Join  the  Spy  Company, — Farther  Speculations  as  regards  Red  River. — Ad- 
vantages of  travelling  with  the  Spies. — Beautiful  Streams  and  cool  Ar- 
bours.— Visit  from  Mustangs. — A  dashing  wild  Horse. — Different  Modes 
of  catching  Mustangs. — Indians  in  Sight. — Guarding  against  a  night  At- 
tack.— Description  of  Country. — Rough  Travelling. — Arrival  at  a  Fresh- 
water Stream. — Carlos  thinks  Himself  at  Home. — General  Joy  in  Camp. 
— Scanty  Rations. — A  Shower  and  a  Stampede. — Cross  the  supposed  Red 
River  again. — Scarcity  of  "  Sign." — Mountains  ahead. — A  Labyrinth  of 
Difficulties. —  Broken  Country. — A  hunting  Adventure. — Get  lost  upon 
the  Prairie.  —  Hopelessness  of  my  Situation.  —  Ruminations  upon  the 
Horrors  of  being  Lost. —  Fortunate  Escape  from  Difficulty.  —  A  Ride 
through  a  Rattlesnake  Region. — Once  more  among  my  Friends. — Unpleas- 
ant Dreams. — A  Mesquit  Prairie. — Carlos  again  "  at  Home." — Three  of 
the  Texans  sent  forward  to  the  Settlements. — Carlos  takes  the  Guidance 
of  the  Expedition. — A  Buffalo  Chase. — River  seen  to  the  South. — An  Ad- 
venture with  Deer. — Great  Waste  of  Powder  and  Ball. — A  severe  Case  of 
the  "  Buck  Ague." — Symptoms  and  general  Appearance  of  that  singular 
Disease. 

ON  the  6th  of  August  I  joined  the  spy  company.  By 
this  time  I  was  able  to  ride  without  pain,  although  I 
walked  with  much  difficulty,  and  required  assistance  in 
mounting  my  horse. 

The  course  of  the  stream  we  were  upon  was  a  little 
south  of  east — to  follow  it  up  was  not  the  right  direc- 
tion to  Santa  Fe,  but  as  every  one  supposed  that  we 
must  be  on  Red  River,  there  was  no  suspicion  that  we 
were  not  taking  the  true  route  in  doing  so.  At  times, 
as  we  journeyed  along  its  fertile  bottoms,  some  bend 
of  the  stream  would  bring  us  directly  upon  its  banks, 
which  were  fringed  with  a  few  cotton-wood  trees ; 
again,  the  river  would  turn  away  abruptly,  leaving  us 
at  a  distance  of  several  miles  from  its  waters.  It  was 
now  low,  being  fordable  in  many  places.  Its  bed  may 

VOL.  L— N 


146  A    NATURAL    ARBOUR. 

have  been  sixty  or  seventy  yards  in  width,  its  banks,  in 
many  places,  high  and  steep,  and  giving  evidence  that 
in  the  rainy  season  there  was  depth  of  water  sufficient 
to  float  the  largest  steamers. 

There  were  two  great  advantages  in  marching  with 
the  spies :  one  was  the  opportunity  of  meeting  with 
more  exciting  adventure,  while  the  other  was  the  brisk 
pace  at  which  we  travelled,  being  a  steady  trot,  instead 
of  the  snail-like  movement  of  the  wagons.  On  the  day 
when  I  joined  them,  after  a  pleasant  ride  of  some  ten 
miles,  we  arrived  at  a  small  creek  of  fresh  and  running 
water,  a  delicious  treat  on  a  hot  prairie  march.  It  was 
a  beautiful  stream,  overhung  with  grape  and  other  vines 
now  in  the  full  richness  of  summer  verdure.  In  many 
places  the  vines  had  completely  crossed  the  creek,  thus 
forming  a  delightful  natural  arbour,  and  under  this  cool 
shade  the  restless  waters  swept  along  to  mingle  with 
the  hot  and  brackish  river,  now  some  two  or  three  miles 
to  the  south.  After  finding  an  easy  crossing-place,  a 
man  was  sent  back  to  the  command  as  a  guide,  while 
we  unsaddled  and  turned  our  horses  loose  to  graze, 
and  then  threw  ourselves  upon  the  green  carpeting  of 
grass  under  the  shade-trees,  to  enjoy  a  quiet  noonday 
siesta. 

We  scarcely  had  time  to  establish  ourselves  comfort- 
ably before  three  or  four  mustangs  were  seen  approach- 
ing at  a  rapid  gallop.  Ever  and  anon  they  would  halt 
for  a  moment,  throw  up  their  heads  as  if  to  scan  us 
more  closely,  and  then,  as  though  not  satisfied  with  the 
scrutiny,  would  again  approach  at  the  same  rapid  pace. 
It  may  be  that  they  could  not  see  us  while  reclining 
under  the  shade-trees,  or  mistook  our  animals  for  some 
of  their  own  wild  companions  ;  be  this  as  it  may,  they 
approached  within  a  few  hundred  yards,  wheeling  and 


A    SUPERB    WILD    HORSE.  147 

dashing  about  with  all  the  joyousness  of  unrestrained 
freedom,  and  occasionally  stopping  to  examine  our  en- 
campment more  closely.  The  leader  was  a  bright  bay, 
with  long  and  glossy  black  tail  and  mane.  With  the 
most  dashing  and  buoyant  action  he  would  trot  around 
our  camp,  and  throw  aloft  his  beautifully-formed  head, 
as  if,  after  the  manner  of  some  ringleted  school-girl,  to 
toss  the  truant  hair  from  his  eyes.  Then  he  would  lash 
his  silken  tail,  shake  his  flowing  mane  in  pride,  and  eye 
us  with  looks  that  plainly  told  his  confidence  in  his 
powers  of  flight  should  danger  or  treachery  be  lurking 
in  our  vicinity.  I  had  formed  a  strong  attachment  for 
my  own  powerful  bay,  for  he  was  gentle  as  a  house- 
dog, and  would  run  all  day  if  necessity  required  it ;  yet 
I  would  instantly  have  "  swapped"  even  him  for  this 
wild  horse  of  the  prairies,  with  no  other  knowledge  of 
his  qualities  than  what  I  could  discover  at  the  distance 
of  a  hundred  and  fifty  or  two  hundred  yards. 

After  gambolling  about  us  for  some  little  time,  his 
bright  eyes  apparently  gleaming  with  satisfaction,  as  if 
conscious  that  we  were  watching  and  admiring  his 
showy  points,  he  suddenly  wheeled,  and,  in  a  canter, 
placed  himself  at  a  more  prudent  distance.  Then  he 
turned  again  to  take  another  look,  curved  his  beautiful 
neck,  once  more  tossed  his  head,  half  timidly,  half  in 
sport,  pawed  the  ground  playfully,  and  again  dashed 
off.  Several  times  he  turned  to  take  still  another 
look  at  our  encampment,  and  even  in  the  far  distance 
we  could  distinguish  his  proud  and  expanded  nostrils, 
his  bright,  flashing  eyes,  and  the  elastic  movements  of 
his  symmetrical  limbs  as  he  playfully  pranced  and  cur- 
vetted about.  I  watched  him  until  he  was  but  a  speck 
upon  the  prairie,  and  then  turned  from  gazing  with  re- 
gret that  he  was  not  mine. 


148  MODES    OF    TAKING    MUSTANG'S. 

The  Indians  and  Mexicans  have  a  way  of  capturing 
mustangs  by  running  up  on  their  fleetest  and  most  un- 
tiring horses  and  noosing  them  with  the  lariat.  The 
white  hunters  have  also  a  method,  which  is  often  suc- 
cessful, of  taking  the  wild  horses.  It  is  called  creasing, 
and  is  done  by  shooting  them  with  a  rifle-ball  upon  a 
particular  cord  or  tendon  in  the  neck,  immediately  un- 
der the  mane.  If  the  ball  takes  effect  precisely  in  the 
right  spot  the  animal  falls  benumbed,  and  without  the 
power  to  move  for  several  minutes,  when  he  is  easily 
secured.  Should  it  strike  too  low,  the  horse  is  still  able 
to  run  off,  but  eventually  dies.  An  attempt  was  made 
to  crease  the  magnificent  steed  I  have  mentioned ;  but 
it  was  impossible  to  approach  near  enough  to  shoot 
with  accuracy,  and  to  endanger  his  life  would  have 
been  a  wanton  act,  which  the  most  eager  hunter  among 
us  would  not  have  committed.  When  our  provisions 
became  scarce  several  of  these  animals  were  shot  for 
their  flesh.  It  seems  repugnant  to  the  feelings  to  eat 
horseflesh ;  but  the  meat  is  tender  and  finely  flavoured, 
and  a  three-year-old  mustang  is  really  better  food  than 
either  buffalo  or  common  beef. 

After  the  mustangs  left  us  we  passed  two  hours  very 
agreeably  in  a  shade  which  completely  screened  us 
from  the  hot,  noonday  sun.  In  the  cool  of  the  evening 
we  once  more  saddled  our  horses  and  continued  the 
march  in  close  order.  Deer  and  antelope  were  seen 
in  every  direction,  but  as  they  were  at  too  great  dis- 
tance to  be  shot  from  the  ranks,  not  one  of  them  was 
killed.  Our  party  was  small,  and  as  Indians  were  seen 
several  times  during  the  day,  watching  us  from  the  dif- 
ferent swells  of  the  prairie,  it  was  deemed  prudent  to 
keep  close  and  in  a  body.  The  Indians  seen  were  to 
the  right  of  our  line  of  march ;  that  bodies  of  them 


DISAGREEABLE  NEIGHBOURS.  140 

were  also  watching  us  from  the  timber  on  the  left  was 
more  than  probable,  as  there  they  could  find  secure  hi- 
ding-places. At  nightfall  we  encamped  upon  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  were  obliged  to  drink  the  brackish 
water  or  none,  as  no  fresh  spring  could  be  found.  An 
abundance  of  the  finest  catfish  were  caught  in  the 
stream,  the  bed  of  which  was  here  nearly  a  hundred 
yards  in  width. 

Again  a  strong  position  was  chosen  for  our  camp, 
and  the  guard  had  strict  orders  to  keep  a  good  look- 
out at  night,  to  prevent  a  surprise  from  the  Wacoes. 
It  was  evident  that  they  were  watching  us  at  every 
turn,  and  while  their  fears  prevented  them  from  attack- 
ing us  openly  in  a  body,  they  were  still,  as  is  their  cus- 
tom, looking  out  for  an  opportunity  to  stampede  our 
horses  and  cattle,  or  cut  off  any  little  straggling  party 
that  might  wander  from  camp  in  search  of  water  or  to 
hunt.  The  night  passed,  however,  without  a  visit  from 
them,  and  the  only  inconvenience  occasioned  by  their 
proximity  fell  upon  our  horses,  for  we  were  compelled 
to  hobble  them  well  and  stake  them  inside  the  lines  of 
sentinels,  where  the  grass  was  soon  cropped  close  to 
the  ground. 

For  three  days  after  leaving  the  village  of  the  Wa- 
coes our  route  was  along  the  wide  and  fertile  bottoms 
of  the  river.  Our  course,  as  already  mentioned,  was  a 
little  south  of  west,  but  being  confident  that  we  were 
on  the  banks  of  Red  River,  it  was  thought  from  day  to 
day  that  the  stream  would  soon  turn  off  more  to  the 
north. 

On  the  opposite  or  south  side  of  the  river  the  country 

had  been  rugged  and  broken  up  by  hills — on  the  side 

along  which  we  were  travelling,  nothing  could  be  seen 

but  a  boundless  and  unbroken  prairie,  with  naught  to 

N2 


160  EXQUISITE   RURAL    BEAUTY. 

destroy  its  sameness  except  here  and  there  a  light  frin- 
ging of  trees  bordering  the  banks  of  the  small  creeks 
and  rivulets,  which,  rising  in  the  prairies  to  the  north, 
found  their  way  to  the  river  after  flowing  many  miles 
along  cool  and  secluded  courses.  Rack  fancy  to  the 
utmost,  and  it  is  still  impossible  to  draw  a  picture  of 
more  enchanting,  sylvan  loveliness,  than  some  of  the 
beautiful  arches  formed  over  these  murmuring  stream- 
lets. In  many  places  the  limbs  of  the  trees  which  deck- 
ed either  bank  would  cross  over  as  if  to  commune  and 
shake  hands,  one  with  the  other.  Along  these  the  wan- 
dering grape-vines  would  creep,  lock  themselves,  as  it 
were,  in  each  other's  embrace  on  meeting,  and  thus  form 
a  cool  and  delicious  arbour,  so  closely  interwoven  that 
not  a  solitary  ray  from  the  sun  could  reach  the  recess 
below.  Under  these  natural  arches  the  deer  would 
while  away  the  hot,  mid-day  hours,  slaking  his  thirst 
from  the  gently-flowing  waters  which  were  gliding  with 
sweet  music  at  his  feet  ;  there,  too,  we  saw  the  solitary 
white  heron,  standing  tall  and  erect,  like  some  elfin 
spirit.  Our  approach  would  frighten  him  from  his  se- 
cret place,  only  to  seek  some  other  lonely  dell  of  equal 
beauty,  coolness,  and  seclusion.  Such  scenes  of  rural 
beauty — of  soft,  pure,  unsophisticated  nature,  are  clear- 
ly, brightly  painted  upon  my  memory — but  I  am  utterly 
wanting  in  the  power  to  delineate  them. 

Our  encampment  on  the  banks  of  the  river  we  left 
early  in  the  morning,  the  spies  starting  so:  •  e  hour  in  ad- 
vance in  search  of  fresh  water  and  the  best  route  for  the 
wagons.  We  had  travelled  but  a  few  miles  when  the 
country  before  us  appeared  more  rough  and  broken, 
and  by  mid-day  the  hills  and  gullies  we  encountered  al- 
most prevented  the  farther  progress  of  the  wagons. 
The  spies  finally  were  fortunate  in  finding  a  fresh-wa- 


DELUSIVE    HOPES.  151 

ter  river,  running  into  the  larger  and  brackish  stream, 
and  after  much  fatigue  and  trouble  a  crossing-place 
was  discovered,  which  we  were  able  to  reach  with  our 
wagons.  The  banks,  on  the  side  at  which  we  approach- 
ed, were  high  and  steep,  offering  serious  obstacles  ;  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  a  gradual  ascent  from  the 
water  led  to  a  pleasant  valley.  Carlos,  the  Mexican,  at 
once  pronounced  it  the  Rio  Utau,  or  Eutaw,  a  stream 
upon  which  he  said  he  had  often  trapped ;  and  to  give 
his  story  greater  plausibility,  he  said  that  at  the  very 
point  where  we  made  the  passage  the  Mexican  hunters 
had  frequently  crossed  with  carts  laden  with  dry  buffa- 
lo meat. 

There  really  was  every  appearance  of  an  old  wagon 
road  when  we  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
and  if  any  one  had  previously  doubted  the  statements  of 
Carlos,  those  doubts  were  now  set  at  rest.  He  said  that 
he  was  as  well  acquainted  with  the  country  in  the  vi- 
cinity as  with  his  mother's  door-yard,  and  spoke  of  the 
country  beyond  with  a  plausibility  that  convinced  all  of 
his  being  now  "  perfectly  at  home."  He  said  that  the 
angosturas,  or  narrows  of  Red  River,  were  distant  only 
some  seventy  miles,  and  that  the  same  distance  beyond 
would  bring  us  to  the  Mexican  ranches,  or  farms,  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  frontier  town  of  San  Mi- 
guel. 

Placing  confidence  as  we  did  in  his  reports,  it  is  need- 
less to  say  that  all  was  joy  and  congratulation  in  camp 
that  evening.  Our  beef,  the  only  thing  we  had  in  the 
shape  of  provision,  was  now  becoming  extremely  poor 
from  the  fatiguing  marches  and  want  of  grass  and  wa- 
ter. Our  sugar  was  all  gone,  and  although  our  coffee 
still  held  out,  we  were  too  near  the  end  of  that  great 
luxury  to  expect  that  it  would  last  much  longer.  Inde- 


152  A    HIDEOUS   CONCERT. 

pendent  of  this,  many  of  us  began  to  think,  in  earnest, 
that  bread,  if  not  the  staff  of  life,  offered  at  least  a  very 
comfortable  support.  We  still  had  our  regular  allow- 
ance, three  pounds  of  beef  a  day,  but  it  was  greatly  in- 
ferior in  comparison  with  the  same  allowance  we  had 
in  the  earlier  stages  of  our  journey,  and  this  inferiority 
began  to  be  felt  seriously.  Nevertheless,  all  was  joy 
and  gladness  in  camp  at  the  good  news  of  our  near  ap- 
proach to  settlements,  and  it  was  thought  that  twenty 
days,  at  farthest,  would  bring  us  to  the  rich  wheat  and 
corn  fields,  as  wrell  as  the  sheepfolds  of  New  Mexico. 
Far  different  would  have  been  our  feelings  had  we  an- 
ticipated the  sufferings  yet  in  store  for  us. 

Had  we  known  that  four  or  five  hundred  miles  of 
dreary  travelling  were  still  before  us,  and  that  hunger 
and  thirst  were  to  weaken  our  frames  and  destroy  our 
spirits ;  had  we  been  aware  that  hostile  Indians  in  great 
numbers  were  in  our  paths,  and  treacherous  friends — if 
it  is  not  a  solecism — in  our  very  midst,  far  different  would 
have  been  our  expectations  and  our  feelings  that  night, 
on  betaking  ourselves  to  our  earth,  our  blankets,  and  our 
sky. 

Scarcely  had  we  finished  our  scanty  and  homely  sup- 
per, and  quietly  nestled  ourselves  each  on  the  spot  he 
had  chosen  for  his  lodging-ground,  when  a  drizzling 
rain  set  in,  which,  before  sleep  had  visited  our  eyelids, 
deepened  into  a  heavy  shower.  Our  encampment  was 
in  a  grove  of  small  timber,  within  some  thirty  yards  of 
the  river.  A  flock  of  hooting,  screeching  owls  had  en- 
gaged a  cotton- wood  tree,  almost  directly  over  our  heads, 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  a  grand  concert,  while  a  pack 
of  sneaking  wolves  were  howling  a  horrible  accompa- 
niment in  the  edge  of  the  prairie  near  us.  In  the  very 
midst  of  this  discord,  our  oxen,  which  had  been  quietly 


ANOTHER    STAMPEDE.  153 

feeding  in  a  neighbouring  prairie,  took  a  stampede,  and 
came  rushing  madly  towards  us.  The  earth  fairly 
trembled  as  they  bounded  along,  many  of  them  with 
their  yokes  still  on,  and  all  impelled  by  an  indescriba- 
ble panic.  I  took  to  a  tree  at  once,  or  rather  clamber- 
ed up  a  small  sapling  hand  over  hand,  to  place  myself 
out  of  harm's  way,  for  I  well  knew  that  no  human  ob- 
stacle could  check  the  onward  career  of  a  drove  of  fear- 
stricken  oxen.  Fortunately  the  steep  bank  of  the  river 
on  the  opposite  side,  or  some  other  cause,  stopped  them 
in  their  headlong  flight.  The  guard  were  unable  to  col- 
lect and  herd  them  that  night,  yet  they  were  all  found 
without  much  trouble  the  next  morning.  What  could 
have  given  them  the  "  scare"  no  one  could  divine.  The 
cattle-guard  declared  that  they  suddenly  started  off  in 
a  body,  as  if  impressed  by  a  common  fear,  and  that  in 
the  hurry-scurry  they  had  no  time  except  to  look  to 
their  own  personal  safety.  Some  of  the  old  campaign- 
ers hinted  that  the  cries  of  owls  and  wolves,  heard  a 
short  time  before  the  stampede,  were  but  imitations  of 
these  birds  and  beasts  by  Indians  in  the  vicinity,  and 
that  some  lurking  savage  had  frightened  the  oxen. 
Whatever  the  cause,  I  knew  the  effect  well  enough ; 
and  in  my  half-asleep,  half-awake  condition,  felt  well 
satisfied  that  I  had  not  been  run  over  and  trodden  under 
foot. 

Our  start  on  the  ensuing  morning  was  late,  several 
hours  having  been  occupied  in  drying  our  blankets  and 
collecting  the  scattered  beeves.  We  had  marched  but 
a  short  distance  before  it  was  evident  to  all  that  the 
stream  we  had  been  following  up — the  same  we  had 
crossed  at  the  Waco  village — now  bore  more  to  the 
northward,  and  that  from  the  appearance  of  the  country 
before  us  we  should  be  compelled  to  recross  it.  This 


154  A    LABYRINTH    OF   DIFFICULTIES. 

troublesome  labour  was  effected  in  the  afternoon  with 
no  little  difficulty,  and  night  found  us  once  more  en- 
camped near  its  banks,  with  no  other  than  its  brackish 
waters  to  drink. 

By  this  time  both  buffalo  and  Indian  "  sign"  had  be- 
come extremely  scarce,  and  the  little  seen  appeared  to 
be  months  old.  The  general  impression  among  our 
older  hunters,  whose  opinions  we  all  looked  upon  as  law 
and  gospel,  was  that  the  buffalo  had  all  gone  north  and 
the  Indians  with  them  ;  for  although  natural  enemies, 
they  are  seldom  seen  except  in  company. 

The  next  day  we  made  but  six  or  seven  miles,  the 
country  in  every  direction  becoming  more  and  more 
broken.  Ahead  we  saw  nothing  but  chains  of  steep  and 
rugged  mountains ;  low,  but  of  sufficient  height  to  ren- 
der our  farther  advance  extremely  problematical,  at 
least  in  the  right  course.  At  night  we  found  a  small 
spring  of  fresh  water  within  a  mile  of  the  river,  and  in 
the  luxury  of  a  cool,  sweet  draught,  forgot  the  hardships 
and  privations  of  the  previous  twenty-four  hours. 

Carlos  still  insisted  that  he  was  acquainted  with  the 
country,  and  that  he  could  extricate  us,  in  a  day  or  two, 
from  the  labyrinth  of  difficulties  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. An  early  start  was  made  the  next  morning, 
and  near  half  the  day  was  spent  in  climbing  steep  and 
abrupt  hills,  so  rocky  that  the  feet  of  the  oxen  suffered 
severely,  and  many  of  them  had  to  be  unyoked  and 
turned  loose.  I  thought  I  had  previously  seen  a  coun- 
try in  a  state  of  nature,  but  this  was  the  roughest  part 
of  "  out  doors"  it  had  ever  been  my  unfortunate  lot  to 
traverse.  It  appeared  to  have  been  just  got  out  rough 
hewn,  without  a  single  finishing  stroke  in  any  quarter. 
Rough  and  misshapen  hills,  formed  of  rocks  and  sand, 
were  piled  up  here  and  there  without  system  or  order, 


LOST   ON   THE    PRAIRIE.  155 

tmd  not  a  bush  or  blade  of  grass  could  be  found  upon 
them  to  relieve  their  desolate  appearance. 

By  noon  we  had  partially  extricated  ourselves  from 
the  maze  of  hills  on  which  our  feet  had  been  stumbling 
during  that  morning's  march.  Seeing  what  appeared  to 
be  a  level  and  grassy  prairie,  a  mile  or  a  mile  and-a 
half  to  the  left  of  our  line  of  march,  which  seemed  as 
though  it  might  afford  pasturage  for  a  stray  deer  or  an- 
telope, myself  and  "  Old  Paint"  rode  off  in  that  direction. 
As  the  old  hunter  expected,  we  quickly  saw  a  drove  of 
some  fifteen  deer;  but  they  happened  to  see  us  first, 
and  set  off  on  a  run.  My  companion  was  well  enough 
versed  in  their  "  ways"  not  to  think  of  following  them ; 
for  after  having  once  seen  an  enemy,  the  deer  seldom 
allows  him  to  come  within  gunshot.* 

My  experience,  in  comparison  with  that  of  the  veter- 
an borderer,  was  limited,  and  I  was  simple  enough  not 
to  resist  the  temptation  of  following  the  herd  over  a  roll 
of  the  prairie,  in  the  vain  hope  of  obtaining  a  shot.  They 
halted,  as  I  supposed  they  would,  but  were  on  the  look- 
.out,  and  before  I  was  within  three  hundred  yards  again 
bounded  off  across  the  prairie.  Hope  induced  me  to 
give  one  more  trial,  which  terminated  like  the  first.  I 
now  reluctantly  gave  up  the  chase  and  cast  my  eyes 
about  for  my  fellow-hunter,  but  he  was  nowhere  in 
sight.  I  tried  hurriedly  to  ascertain  the  direction  in 
which  I  had  left  him  ;  but  the  result  of  my  reflections 
convinced  me  that  I  was,  to  use  a  common  expression, 
thoroughly  "  turned  round" — lost.  I  put  spurs  to  my 
horse  and  galloped  to  the  highest  roll  of  the  prairie,  with 
the  hope  of  obtaining  a  sight  of  my  companion  or  com- 
panions, but  without  success. 

*  It  appears  to  be  a  point  of  honour  with  an  old  hunter  never  to  follow  a 
deer  after  the  animal  has  once  discovered  him. 


156  A    TRYING   SITUATION, 

A  sickening  feeling  of  loneliness  came  over  me  on 
finding  myself  in  that  worst  of  all  situations  upon  a 
prairie — lost !  The  sun  was  still  high  in  the  heavens, 
and  I  could  not  tell  which  was  north  or  which  south. 
I  had  my  rifle  and  pistols  with  me,  was  well  mounted, 
and  had  a  sufficiency  of  ammunition,  but  I  was  not  well 
enough  acquainted  with  a  prairie  life  to  steer  a  course, 
even  if  I  had  known  what  course  to  start  upon,  neither 
was  I  hunter  enough  to  feel  confident  that  I  could  kill  a 
sufficiency  of  meat  in  case  I  should  be  unsuccessful  in 
finding  my  companions.  Another  thing :  I  had  already 
found  out,  what  every  hunter  knows,  that  the  more  hungry 
a  man  grows  upon  the  prairies  the  more  unlikely  he  is 
to  find  game,  and  the  more  difficult  it  is  to  shoot  it. 
There,  then,  I  was,  without  a  companion  and  without 
experience — starvation  staring  me  in  the  face,  or  even 
if  I  was  fortunate  in  obtaining  meat,  I  still  was  almost 
certain  to  be  killed  and  scalped  by  the  Indians  or  end 
my  days  in  vain  efforts  to  reach  the  settlements.  I 
thought  of  home,  and  made  up  my  mind  firmly  that  if 
ever  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  reach  it,  I  should  be  in 
no  particular  hurry  to  leave  it  again. 

I  dashed  off  to  what  appeared  a  still  higher  prairie 
swell  than  the  one  I  now  stood  upon — nothing  could  I 
see  except  a  solitary  wolf,  trotting  stealthily  along  in  the 
hollow  below  me  :  I  even  envied  this  most  contemptible 
of  the  brute  creation,  for  he  knew  where  he  was.  I 
strained  my  eyes  as  though  to  penetrate  beyond  the 
limits  of  human  vision  ;  but  all  was  a  waste,  a  blank.  I 
leaped  from  my  horse  and  sat  upon  the  ground  for  a 
moment ;  it  was  only  for  a  moment,  for  in  my  uneasi- 
ness I  could  not  remain  motionless.  I  tried  to  reflect, 
to  reason  ;  but  so  fast  did  thoughts  of  starvation  and  of 
Indian  perils  crowd  on  my  mind,  that  I  could  come  to 


THE    WOES   OP    SOLITUDE.  157 

no  definite  conclusion  as  to  my  present  position  with 
reference  to  that  of  my  companions.  I  tried  to  follow 
my  own  trail  back  to  the  point  where  I  had  so  foolishly 
left "  Old  Paint,"  but  the  ground  was  so  hard  that  my 
horse's  hoofs  had  made  little  or  no  indentation,  and  I  was 
too  impatient  to  examine  the  face  of  the  prairie  with 
that  searching  scrutiny  which  might  have  resulted  in 
success. 

Yet  I  resolved  to  make  one  desperate  effort,  at  least, 
to  find  the  command.  I  knew  enough  of  my  situation 
to  feel  convinced  that  by  circling  about,  from  prairie 
roll  to  prairie  roll,  I  might  gallop  my  horse  for  hours, 
and  at  last  find  myself  at  the  point  I  started  from,  "  with 
confusion  worse  confounded" — travelling  in  a  straight 
line  alone  might  save  me.  Here  was  another  difficulty; 
for  the  course  I  might  adopt,  even  were  I  successful  in 
keeping  it,  might  leave  me  at  a  still  greater  distance 
from  my  friends.  How  I  wished  for  the  presence  of 
Tom  Hancock — the  presence  even  of  the  greatest  dul- 
lard in  the  command  would  have  assisted  in  removing 
the  mountain  of  torturing  uncertainty  that  pressed  upon 
my  mind.  Man  never  knows  the  full  weight  of  hope- 
lessness until  he  is  made  to  bear  it  alone,  with  no  human 
intelligence  near  from  whose  resources  he  can  hope  to 
draw  something  for  his  relief  when  he  is  too  consciously 
aware  that  his  own  are  exhausted.  Even  sympathy 
imparts  something  of  hope.  I  felt  that  even  my  horse 
was  some  company  to  me :  I  patted  him  kindly  on  the 
neck  and  told  him  so,  aloud. 

"But,"  the  reader  will  perchance  inquire,  "why  did 
you  not  give  your  horse  the  reins  and  trust  to  his  natu- 
ral instinct  for  regaining  his  and  your  companions  ?" 
And  again, "  Why  did  you  not  wait  until  the  sun  was  low 
in  the  western  heavens,  then  reflect,  for  one  moment,  in 

VOL.  I.— O 


158        THE  MIND  LOST,  WITH  THE  ROAD. 

what  direction  the  command  was  travelling  and  the  side 
on  which  you  had  left  it?  You  knew  that  the  sun 
would  set  in  the  west,  and  that  as  you  faced  it,  north 
was  to  the  right  and  south  to  the  left — surely  you  could 
then  steer  a  course,  even  if  you  could  not  while  the  sun 
was  vertical." 

Gentle  reader,  you  have  never  been  lost  on  a  wide 
ocean  of  prairies,  unskilled  in  border  life,  and  little  gifted 
with  the  power  of  first  adopting  a  course  to  follow  and 
then  not  deviating  from  it.  You  must  recollect  that 
there,  as  on  the  wide  ocean,  you  find  no  trees,  no  friend- 
ly landmarks,  to  guide  you — all  is  a  wide  waste  of  eter- 
nal sameness.  To  be  lost,  as  I  and  others  have  experi- 
enced, has  a  complex  and  fearful  meaning.  It  is  not 
merely  to  stray  from  your  friends,  your  path,  but  from 
yourself.  With  your  way  you  lose  your  presence  of 
mind.  You  attempt  to  reason,  but  the  rudder  and  com- 
pass of  your  reflective  faculties  are  gone.  Self-confi- 
dence, too,  is  lost — in  a  word  all  is  lost,  except  a  mani- 
acal impulse  to  despair,  that  is  peculiar  and  inde- 
scribable. 

In  my  case  fate,  fortune,  good  luck — call  it  by  what 
name  you  may — stepped  in  to  my  assistance.  While 
upon  one  of  the  highest  rolls  of  the  prairie  I  resolved  to 
proceed  in  a  certain  direction,  and,  if  possible,  to  keep  it 
without  variation.  Whether  I  did  so  or  not  I  am  un- 
able to  say — I  only  know  that  after  travelling  at  a  rapid 
pace,  it  may  be  some  five  miles,  I  suddenly  found  my- 
self upon  the  brow  of  a  high  and  steep  declivity,  over- 
looking a  narrow  but  beautiful  valley,  through  which  a 
small  creek  was  winding.  I  had  examined  the  prairies 
in  every  direction,  during  my  short  ride,  until  my  eyes 
ached  from  over-straining,  yet  had  not  for  a  moment 
allowed  my  horse  to  slacken  his  pace.  I  now  paused 


A    DEN    OF   SNAKES.  159 

to  examine  the  valley  before  me.  The  reader  may 
judge  my  feelings  when,  after  a  hasty  glance,  I  discov- 
ered the  white  tops  of  the  wagons,  far  off  in  the  distance 
to  the  right,  slowly  winding  their  way  down  a  gentle 
slope  into  the  valley.  Never  was  the  sight  of  friendly 
sail  more  welcome  to  the  eye  of  a  shipwrecked  mariner 
than  was  the  appearance  of  those  wagons  to  me,  and  I 
fairly  laughed  aloud  at  my  good  fortune. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  spot  where  I  had  made 
this  truly  fortunate  discovery  the  declivity  was  steep, 
amounting  almost  to  a  precipice,  with  craggy  rocks  jut- 
ting out  in  every  direction.  A  few  steps  beyond,  the 
descent,  although  rough,  appeared  less  steep,  and  in 
such  haste  was  I  once  more  to  reach  the  command 
that  I  put  spurs  to  my  horse  and  dashed  headlong  down. 
Scarcely  had  I  proceeded  twenty  steps  ere  my  horse 
snorted  and  jumped  furiously  aside,  frightened  by,  a  rat- 
tlesnake lying  almost  directly  in  the  path.  Blind  at  the 
time,  in  all  probability,  it  being  in  August,  the  snake  did 
not  give  the  well-known  and  frightful  alarm  until  the 
feet  of  my  horse  were  close  upon  him.  Numbers  of 
these  poisonous  reptiles,  coiled  among  the  rocks  imme- 
diately around,  soon  joined  in  the  alarm,  and  at  the  same 
time  emitted  an  odour  which  was  disagreeable  in  the 
extreme.*  If  I  had  been  frightened  while  lost  upon  the 
prairies,  it  was  now  my  horse's  turn  to  share  a  panic 
with  me.  With  quick  yet  tremulous  leaps  he  dashed  down 
the  craggy  steep,  and  I  was  unable  to  restrain  or  check 
him  until  he  had  reached  the  smooth,  grassy  bottom  in 
safety.  How  many  snakes  there  were  in  this  imme- 

*  Every  animal,  with  the  single  exception  of  the  hog,  has  an  instinctive 
fear  of  the  rattlesnake,  can  scent  them  easily,  and  will  fly  at  their  approach 
with  terror.  The  hog  cares  nothing  for  the  reptiles,  but  on  the  contrary  has 
been  known  to  attack,  kill,  and  devour  them  with  avidity  and  impunity. 


160  UNdUIET   DREAMS. 

diate  neighbourhood  is  more  than  I  can  tell — I  did  not 
stop  to  count  or  calculate ;  but  if  the  lot  had  been  pur- 
chased at  five  hundred,  I  honestly  think  the  buyer  never 
would  have  had  reason  to  find  fault  with  the  reckoning. 
On  looking  back,  I  discovered  a  large  hole  or  cave 
among  the  rocks,  and  near  the  path  I  had  taken,  which 
I  had  not  seen  before.  This  was  probably  the  den  or 
dwelling-place  of  the  reptiles,  and  at  the  time  when  I 
passed  along  they  were  all  out  airing  themselves  in  the 
sun.  Half  an  hour's  brisk  trot  brought  me  up  with  the 
command,  which  I  found  my  companion  had  already 
rejoined.  He  did  not  know  even  that  I  had  been  lost  un- 
til I  informed  him  of  my  adventure.  I  said  little  about 
it,  but  inly  resolved  never  to  be  caught  out  of  sight  of 
the  command  again. 

Two  or  three  rattlesnakes  had  been  killed  that  night 
within  our  lines,  stragglers,  probably,  from  the  den  I 
had  passed,  and  belated,  or  else  too  blind  to  find  their 
way  back.  After  falling  asleep  at  night  my  dreams 
partook  of  anything  but  the  agreeable.  At  one  time  I 
thought  myself,  like  Mazcppa,  beset  on  every  side  by 
ravenous  wolves,  grinning  and  snapping  at  me  at  every 
step.  Next,  I  was  suffering  horribly  from  both  hunger 
and  thirst — my  powder  had  all  become  spoiled  by  rain, 
and  the  clouds  gave  down  no  other  than  bitter  water. 
Soon  I  was  chased  by  a  gang  of  bloodthirsty  Indians, 
and  to  increase  my  fright  my  faithful  horse  suddenly 
lost  half  his  speed.  Anon,  the  prairie  was  covered  in 
every  direction  with  rattlesnakes,  and  at  the  next  mo- 
ment it  was  on  fire,  myself  standing  on  a  small  unburn- 
ed  knoll,  the  flames  rapidly  approaching  me  in  every 
direction.  From  these  dreams  I  would  awake  with  a 
start,  the  horrors  of  the  night  even  exceeding  those  of 
the  day  which  had  preceded  it.  Right  glad  was  I 


MESaUIT    GRASS.  161 

when  morning  at  length  came  to  dissipate  the  annoying 
dreams. 

After  proceeding  a  short  distance  on  our  journey  that 
morning,  we  encountered  even  a  worse  road  than  any 
over  which  we  had  travelled,  if  my  memory  serves  me. 
We  boxed  the  compass  for  several  hours,  going  some 
ten  or  twelve  miles  to  gain  three  on  our  course,  but 
were  finally  fortunate  enough  to  reach  a  high  piece  of 
table-land  where  the  mesquit*  grass  was  fresh,  and  far 
better  than, any  we  had  previously  found.  To  this  spot 
Carlos  said  the  Mexicans  frequently  brought  their  sheep, 
on  account  of  the  superiority  of  the  pasturage,  and  he 
also  pointed  in  the  direction  of  a  large  spring  and  creek 
of  fresh  water,  which  he  said  emptied  into  Red  River 
a  few  miles  to  the  north.  Although  no  sign  could  be 
seen  indicating  water  in  the  direction  he  assigned,  his 
assertion  proved  correct ;  for  after  a  travel  of  five  or 
six  miles  a  spring  was  found  in  the  precise  situation 
which  he  had  described.  More  singular  than  this,  he 
had  frequently  informed  the  men  where  plum-patches 
were  to  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of  our  journey,  and  he 
was  almost  invariably  correct.  With  all  these  corrob- 

*  Whether  this  is  a  Mexican  or  Indian  name  for  a  particular  kind  of  grass, 
found  in  great  abundance  on  the  great  prairies  of  the  West,  I  am  unable  to 
say.  Cattle  and  horses  are  extremely  fond  of  it,  and  it  is  very  nourishing. 
There  is  a  small,  brambly  bush  of  the  same  name,  and  also  a  tree  about  the 
size  of  a  cherry  or  peach  tree.  The  latter  bears  a  pod  containing  beans, 
which  are  greedily  devoured  by  horses  and  cattle,  and  are  said  to  fatten  them 
as  well  as  grain.  The  Camanches  make  a  species  of  meal  from  the  beans, 
very  palatable  and  nutritious,  and  the  Mexicans  also  use  them  in  making 
beer  as  well  as  sugar.  When  our  provisions  and  coffee  fell  short,  the  men 
ate  them  raw  in  immense  quantities,  and  also  either  roasted  or  boiled  them. 
The  wood  makes  the  best  of  charcoal,  throws  out  a  great  heat,  and  lasts  a 
long  time.  The  tree,  as  well  as  the  small  bush,  has  a  long,  sharp  thorn.  I 
have  spelled  the  word  mesquit,  believing  that  to  be  the  Spanish  mode — it  is 
pronounced  meskeet.  West  of  San  Antonio  there  are  immense  groves  of 
mesquit-trees,  and  the  grass  is  also  found  there  in  several  varieties. 

02 


162          A  FORTUNATE  ENCUMBRANCE. 

orating  circumstances,  it  cannot  be  wondered  at  that 
we  all  thought  we  were  within  a  few  days'  march  of 
the  frontier  Mexican  settlements. 

On  encamping  at  night,  fully  convinced  as  the  com- 
missioners were  of  the  truth  of  the  statements  made  by 
Carlos,  who  said  that  San  Miguel  was  not  more  than 
seventy-five  or  eighty  miles  distant,  they  determined 
upon  sending  Messrs.  Howland,  Baker,  and  Rosenberry 
forward  to  procure  sugar,  coffee,  and  breadstuffs,  and 
consult  with  the  inhabitants,  more  particularly  with 
some  of  the  principal  men,  as  to  the  reception  the  ex- 
pedition would  probably  meet.  Howland  had  lived 
several  years  in  Santa  Fe  and  the  vicinity,  spoke  Span- 
ish fluently,  and  was  well  acquainted  with  all  the  lead- 
ing inhabitants.  He  was  a  man  of  great  intelligence, 
brave,  and  at  the  same  time  cautious.  The  party  took 
with  them  but  three  days'  provisions,  and  as  large  num- 
bers of  hostile  Indians  were  known  to  infest  the  borders 
of  New  Mexico,  they  were  to  travel  only  by  night,  ly- 
ing concealed  during  the  day. 

Had  it  not  been  for  this  circumstance  alone,  I  should 
most  certainly  have  accompanied  this  party  ;  but  I  had 
a  pack-mule  with  no  inconsiderable  wardrobe  to  take 
along,  and  to  travel  through  an  Indian  country  with 
such  an  encumbrance  was  deemed  not  only  unsafe,  but 
impracticable.  So  anxious  was  I  to  hasten  my  journey, 
that  I  was  almost  tempted  to  leave  my  mule,  and  take 
such  articles  only  as  I  could  carry  on  my  horse ;  but 
my  friends  so  strongly  advised  me  to  continue  with  the 
command  that  I  relinquished  the  idea  of  accompanying 
them,  much  against  my  wishes.  After  circumstances 
proved,  almost  beyond  a  doubt,  that  the  fact  of  my  be- 
ing compelled  to  remain  with  the  command  saved  my 


A    LAST    FAREWELL.  163 

life.*  I  was  particularly  anxious  to  hasten  forward  on 
more  than  one  account.  In  the  first  place,  the  season 
was  becoming  far  advanced,  and  I  was  in  no  little  anx- 
iety to  prosecute  my  journey  through  the  interior  of 
Mexico,  so  as  to  reach  the  United  States  by  the  early 
part  of  winter  ;  in  the  next  place,  I  had  passed  about 
time  enough,  I  will  not  say  lived,  on  weak  coffee  with- 
out sugar,  and  a  rather  short  allowance  of  beef,  any- 
thing but  good ;  and  I  was  extremely  solicitous  to 
change  my  diet.  To  sum  up  all,  "  /  had  seen  the  ele- 
phant." 

The  whole  of  August  llth  we  remained  in  camp, 
partly  to  repair  some  of  the  wagons,  but  principally  to 
rest  the  oxen,  many  of  their  feet  having  been  worn  to 
the  quick  by  the  rough  and  stony  roads.  In  the  even- 
ing, Howland  and  his  unfortunate  friends  left  for  the 
settlements,  and  were  never  seen  again  save  by  four  of 
us.  On  the  ensuing  morning  we  made  an  early  start, 
under  the  guidance  of  Carlos,  who  now  was  stationed 
with  the  advance-guard,  as  the  spy  company  had  been 
broken  up.  The  day  was  extremely  hot  and  sultry ; 
yet  our  guide  found  a  smooth  and  level  prairie,  and  we 
were  enabled  to  make  some  twelve  miles  in  a  north- 
west course  before  the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  The 
advance-guard  had  by  this  time  arrived  at  the  brow  of 
a  small  hill,  overlooking  a  cool  and  shady  dell,  when  a 
fine  buffalo  cow  was  seen  lying  under  a  large  mesquit- 
tree,  and  apparently  fast  asleep. 

One  of  our  party  immediately  dismounted  with  the 
intention  of  creeping  up  within  gunshot  of  the  animal, 

*  Afterward  I  saw  Howland  and  Baker  shot,  like  dogs,  in  the  plaza  at 
San  Miguel.  Rosenberry  was  also  killed,  although  I  was  not  present  at  his 
death.  My  fate  would,  in  all  human  probability,  have  been  the  same  had  I 
accompanied  them. 


164  ANOTHER   BUFFALO    HUNT. 

while  two  of  us  disencumbered  our  horses  of  saddle- 
bags and  all  superfluous  articles,  handed  our  rifles  to 
some  of  the  men,  with  a  request  that  they  would  take 
charge  of  them,  and  then  closely  examined  our  pistols 
to  see  that  they  were  in  order.  My  comrade's  name 
was  Torry,  and  we  felt  determined  on  giving  the  buf- 
falo a  hard  chase  should  the  first  hunter  not  succeed  in 
killing  her. 

He  was  successful  in  creeping  within  sixty  yards  of 
the  unconscious  animal,  but  unfortunately  his  rifle  hung 
fire,  throwing  the  ball  wide  of  the  mark.  The  buffalo 
rose  at  the  report,  and  turned  her  head  until  her  eye 
caught  a  glance  of  us,  when  she  immediately  set  off  in 
a  westerly  direction  and  at  a  lumbering  gallop.  My- 
self and  companion  were  instantly  in  pursuit  at  a  brisk 
canter,  not  intending  to  push  our  horses  to  the  utmost 
until  we  were  close  upon  our  prey.  After  climbing  the 
acclivity,  on  the  opposite  side  from  where  the  buffalo 
was  first  seen  lying,  we  had  a  level  plain  before  us, 
miles  in  extent,  and  presenting  no  other  obstacles  to  a 
fair  race  than  an  occasional  patch  of  small  and  tangled 
mesquit  bushes.  As  we  were  some  little  distance  from 
the  hunter  when  he  fired,  the  buffalo  had  a  good  half 
mile  the  start  of  us ;  yet  before  we  had  been  two  miles 
in  chase,  we  were  within  fifty  yards  of  her.  With  full 
confidence  that  we  should  soon  be  alongside,  we  now 
spurred  our  horses  to  their  utmost  speed.  At  almost 
every  stride  a  deer  would  start  in  affright  from  his 
covert  under  the  larger  mesquit-trees,*  and  with  a  few 
jumps  place  himself  out  of  harm's  way.  Never  have  I 

*  It  should  be  understood  that  the  larger  class  of  these  trees,  and  the 
only  ones  which  afford  a  shade  on  the  prairies,  never  grow  close  together, 
but  are  generally  found  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  apart.  At  a  short  distance,  a 
grove  of  them  resembles  a  peach-orchard. 


AN    ESCAPE.  165 

seen  the  deer  so  plentiful  as  they  were  during  that  ex- 
citing chase,  and  so  close  did  we  come  to  them  before 
they  started,  that  we  could  easily  have  shot  them  with 
our  pistols. 

We  were  almost  up  to  the  buffalo  as  we  neared  a 
large  patch  of  the  smaller  mesquits,  and  had  already 
cocked  our  pistols,  when  the  affrighted  animal  dashed 
directly  into  the  thickest  part  of  the  matted  thicket. 
Many  of  the  bushes  were  dry,  yet  breaking  and  crashing 
through,  she  rushed  madly  on,  utterly  regardless  of  the 
long  and  sharp  thorns  with  which  they  were  covered. 
Not  so  with  our  horses  ;  their  chests  and  shoulders  were 
not  shielded  by  the  long,  shaggy  hair  found  upon  the  buffa- 
lo, and  as  the  thorns  entered  their  flesh,  they  shied,  bolt- 
ed, and  ran  so  unkindly  that  we  could  hardly  spur  them 
through.  This  gave  the  cow  every  advantage,  and  en- 
abled her  to  gain  some  fifty  yards  while  going  twice 
that  distance  ;  but  on  emerging  from  the  thicket  the  race 
was  our  own  again.  Once  more  we  were  nearly  up 
with  the  flank  of  the  huge  and  unwieldy  animal,  and 
about  to  discharge  our  pistols,  when  another  tangled 
thicket  intervened  to  cut  us  oft'.  A  third  and  a  fourth 
time  we  were  nearly  up  with  our  prey,  and  considered 
her  in  our  very  hands  ;  but  just  in  the  very  nick  of  time 
another  tangled  patch  would  present  itself  as  a  shelter 
and  protection  to  the  hunted  beast.  In  this  way  the 
race  continued  some  five  or  six  miles,  and  until  our 
nags  gave  manifest  symptoms  of  distress.  Had  the 
prairie  been  smooth  and  clear  of  thickets,  we  should 
have  at  least  discharged  every  pistol  we  had,  and  in  all 
probability  brought  our  noble  game  to  the  ground ;  as 
it  was,  with  jaded  animals  and  every  prospect  of  farther 
obstacles  ahead,  we  reined  in  and  gave  up  the  chase — 
reluctantly  enough  on  my  part. 


166  A    BIRD   IN    THE    HAND,  ETC. 

We  immediately  dismounted  from  our  horses  to  give 
them  an  opportunity  of  recovering  their  wind  and  rest- 
ing, and  in  the  mean  time  watched  the  still  retreating 
animal  we  had  vainly  endeavoured  to  kill.  She  never 
appeared  to  check  her  heavy,  lumbering  gallop  until 
lost  to  view  on  the  distant  prairie.  The  ridge  upon 
which  the  chase  had  taken  place  ran  nearly  east  and 
west,  on  the  side  along  which  the  buffalo  led  us  there 
appearing  to  be  a  slight  gradual  slope  towards  the 
south.  In  that  direction,  and  running  parallel  with  the 
ridge,  we  could  see  the  dim  outline  of  what  appeared  to 
be  a  heavy  belt  of  timber — the  bottoms,  as  we  then 
thought,  of  a  large  river.  Having  noted  well  the  points 
from  which  this  timber  could  be  seen,  we  once  more 
mounted  our  horses,  and  slowly  retraced  our  steps.  The 
deer,  which,  as  we  sped  along  after  the  buffalo,  had 
jumped  almost  from  under  the  very  feet  of  our  horses, 
were  now  nowhere  to  be  seen — gone  with  our  hopes  of 
a  meal  of  the  fat  cow,  and  affording  another  specimen 
of  the  luck  of  hungry  hunters. 

We  found  the  command  encamped  near  the  spot 
where  we  had  first  seen  the  buffalo,  although  there  was 
barely  water  enough  for  the  men,  and  our  animals  stood 
in  the  utmost  need.  We  mentioned  the  circumstance 
of  our  having  seen  a  long  line  of  timber  to  the  south- 
ward, with  every  appearance  of  a  large  stream  in  that 
direction ;  but  Carlos  said  that  such  could  not  be  the 
case,  and  he  spoke  with  a  confidence  that  gained  belief 
even  over  the  testimony  of  our  senses.  He  admitted, 
however,  that  there  might  be  a  creek  or  small  stream, 
but  thought  it  could  not  run  in  a  parallel  course  with 
the  river  north  of  us,  the  bottoms  of  which  we  could 
see  on  every  day's  march.  Here,  for  the  time,  the  mat- 
ter of  a  southern  watercourse  rested. 


ANOTHER    TRIAL   FOR   GAME.  167 

With  the  result  of  our  buffalo  hunt  I  was  far  from 
satisfied.  I  had  fully  made  up  my  mind  to  have  a  meal 
of  wild  meat  that  night ;  and  now  that  visions  of  the 
cow,  with  her  delicious  marrow-bones,  had  faded,  my 
mind  was  led  to  investigate  the  chances  of  obtaining  at 
least  a  fat  buck  for  our  mess.  We  had  seen  enough 
during  our  hard  chase  to  convince  us  that  they  were 
not  only  exceedingly  numerous,  but  very  tame.  The 
main  body  of  those  we  had  frightened  from  their  noon- 
day rest,  as  we  galloped  along,  had  gone  in  the  direc- 
tion of  a  beautiful  valley  scarcely  a  mile  from  our  camp. 
Confident  that  I  could  find  some  of  these  feeding  in  this 
valley,  I  shouldered  my  rifle  and  hobbled  off,  as  well  as 
my  lame  ankle  would  allow  me,  in  that  direction. 

The  sun  was  just  setting  as  I  crossed  a  little  roll 
which  overlooked  this  retreat.  So  far  from  being  dis- 
appointed in  my  expectations  of  finding  deer  in  the 
quiet  dell,  I  was  agreeably  surprised  on  seeing  a  large 
drove  of  them  feeding  upon  the  short,  sweet  grass. 
They  saw  me,  too,  for  they  lifted  their  heads  on  high, 
gave  the  well-known  whistle,  and  stared  with  their 
mild,  large  eyes  directly  towards  the  spot  where  I  was 
standing ;  but  instead  of  leaping  hurriedly  away,  as  is 
their  wont  when  worried  and  hunted  by  either  whites 
or  Indians,  they  soon  bent  their  heads  to  the  ground 
again,  and  unconcernedly  resumed  their  evening  meal. 

I  could  have  shot  the  nearest,  from  the  spot  where  I 
first  discovered  them,  and  without,  to  borrow  one  of  the 
comedian  Hackett's  expressions,  running  any  great  risk 
of  straining  my  rifle  ;  but  they  were  so  exceedingly 
tame  that  I  thought  I  would  creep  directly  into  their 
very  midst,  where  I  could  have  my  choice  of  the  largest 
and  fattest  buck.  It  seemed  hardly  necessary,  so  little 
did  the  naturally  timid  animals  regard  my  approach,  to 


A    HARMLESS    BULLET. 

seek  the  cover  afforded  by  some  scattering  mesquit- 
trees ;  yet  I  made  use  of  them,  and  in  five  minutes  was 
in  a  position  where  I  could  make  my  selection  from 
among  at  least  fifty,  and  the  farthest  was  not  seventy 
yards  from  me.  I  soon  selected  a  victim,  a  noble  buck 
whose  plumpness  and  lightish  blue  colour  betokened  an 
exceeding  degree  of  fatness.  Sitting  upon  the  ground, 
I  raised  my  rifle  across  my  knee  -as  a  half  rest,  took  a 
sight  which  I  thought  close  and  deliberate,  and  "  blazed 
away."  The  light  blue  smoke  curled  slowly  upward  in 
fleecy  wreaths  upon  the  still  evening  air,  and  as  it  par- 
tially dispersed  I  saw  my  deer  staring  me  full  in  the  face, 
somewhat  astonished,  perhaps,  but  far  from  frightened 
at  the  report  of  my  rifle.  He  hoisted  his  tail,  made  five 
or  six  bounds,  and  then  stopped  to  give  another  inqui- 
ring look  in  the  direction  where  I  was  sitting.  Sup- 
posing, of  course,  that  I  had  given  him  a  mortal  wound, 
I  quietly  began  to  reload  my  rifle  with  the  intention  of 
sacrificing  another  buck,  for  not  one  of  the  gang  had 
moved  ten  steps  ;  but  what  was  my  astonishment,  after 
having  driven  well  home  a  bullet  and  put  on  a  percus- 
sion cap,  to  see  the  buck  I  had  shot  at  absolutely  nip- 
ping the  grass  with  as  good  a  relish  as  any  of  the  herd. 
I  knew  that  I  had  hit  him — I  could  not,  by  any  possi- 
bility, miss  him  at  so  short  a  distance ;  but  there  he 
stood,  a  living  witness  that  if  I  had  hit  I  had  at  least  not 
hurt  him  much. 

I  could  easily,  from  the  spot  where  I  was  sitting, 
have  selected  a  victim  for  my  second  shot  much  nearer 
than  was  my  first  love  by  this  time  ;  but  having  certain 
misgivings  that  he  might  not  have  received  a  mortal 
wound,  I  determined  upon  paying  my  respects  to  him 
a  second  time — it  was  my  duty  to  "  put  him  out  of  his 
misery"  as  quickly  as  possible.  With  these  intentions 


GREAT    SHOOTING.  169 

I  again  rested  my  rifle  across  my  knee,  again  pulled 
the  trigger,  again  the  rifle  went  off  with  a  good,  sharp, 
and  as  I  thought  killing  crack,  and  again  the  deer  went 
off,  too,  some  half  a  dozen  jumps  across  the  prairie.  If 
I  thought  I  had  given  a  mortal  wound  the  first  time,  I 
was  sure  of  it  now — it  could  not  be  otherwise — there 
was  no  such  thing  as  missing  a  vital  part  twice  at  a 
distance  which  was  absolutely  short  enough  for  putting 
out  a  squirrel's  eye  without  spoiling  his  skin. 

But  to  be  ready  for  another,  I  again  commenced  re- 
loading. Once  or  twice,  while  handling  the  powder 
and  lead,  I  cast  a  glance  at  the  buck  to  which  I  had  al- 
ready dedicated  two  shots,  every  moment  expecting  to 
see  him  totter — to  see  his  legs  give  way — yet  there  he 
stood,  as  firm  on  his  pins  as  ever,  and  what  was  stran- 
ger than  all,  again  commenced  a  supper  from  which  he 
had  been  twice  interrupted.  Still,  there  was  no  neces- 
sity of  wasting  more  lead  upon  him — he  could  not  get 
away — and  I  therefore  commenced  a  survey  of  the 
herd  for  the  next  biggest.  There  was  no  difficulty  in 
making  a  choice,  for  by  the  time  my  rifle  was  ready 
for  a  third  discharge  another  large  buck  had  fed  along 
until  he  was  within  forty  steps  of  me.  I  waited  until 
he  presented  a  fair  broadside,  and  then  fired.  The  re- 
sult was  precisely  the  same  as  on  the  first  two  dis- 
charges— the  buck  I  had  last  shot  at  jumped  off  as  did 
the  first :  his  bounds  may  have  been  a  trifle  longer,  and 
there  may  have  been  a  few  more  of  them.  That  he 
was  a  dead  or  dying  deer  there  was  no  question. 

Once  more  I  commenced  loading  my  rifle.  Some  of 
the  deer,  in  my  more  immediate  vicinity,  had,  after  the 
three  shots,  placed  a  few  yards  more  of  ground  between 
us  ;  but  others  had  taken  their  places,  and  I  was  still 
within  half  rifle-shot  of  at  least  twenty  of  them.  By 

Vol.  I.— P 


170  PLENTY    OF   GAME. 

the  time  I  had  reloaded,  and  was  ready  to  renew  the 
destruction  I  had  commenced,  the  dark  shades  of  even- 
ing had  fallen  upon  the  more  distant  prairie  swells,  yet 
it  was  still  light  enough  for  me  to  see  distinctly  every 
object  in  my  neighbourhood.  Deeply  did  I  regret  the 
lateness  of  the  hour,  as  with  a  little  more  light  I  was 
sanguine  in  the  belief  that  I  could  strew  the  prairie  with 
trophies  of  my  skill  as  a  hunter.  Often,  while  in  the 
settlements,  had  I  remained  patiently  at  a  stand,  hour 
after  hour,  watching  for  a  pack  of  hounds  to  drive  some 
affrighted  deer  within  gunshot,  and  had  even  considered 
myself  in  some  way  rewarded  if,  during  a  long  day's 
hunt,  I  had  a  glimpse  of  a  buck  dashing  madly  through 
the  bushes  at  a  distance  of  three  or  four  hundred  yards, 
and  had  heard  the  exciting  bay  of  the  hounds  while  in 
hot  pursuit.  If,  by  any  chance — and  such  accidents  had 
happened  two  or  three  times  in  my  life — I  was  fortu- 
nate enough  to  bring  down  a  deer,  the  exploit  would 
furnish  me  with  food  for  thought  and  speech  for  a  twelve- 
month— now,  look  in  what  direction  I  would,  the  an- 
imals were  staring  me  in  the  face  within  a  stone's  throw, 
and  seemed  coaxingly  to  ask  me  to  shoot  at  them  : 
surely,  never  before  were  deer  seen  so  tame. 

Anxious  to  make  the  most  of  my  time  before  it  was 
yet  too  dark,  I  drew  up  my  rifle  a  fourth  time  and  dis- 
charged it  at  still  another  buck.  He  followed  in  the 
footsteps  of  his  shot-at  predecessors,  evincing  astonish- 
ment or  alarm  no  otherwise  than  by  bounding  off  a  few 
jumps  and  then  stopping  to  gaze  at  me.  Of  the  two  I 
was  probably  the  most  astonished — astonished  that  he 
did  not  fall  instantly  to  the  ground. 

What  was  the  matter  ?  It  might  be  that  my  rifle, 
"  sighted"  for  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
yards,  carried  too  high  at  forty  or  fifty.  But  then,  if  I 
ft 


GREAT    SHOOTING.  171 

did  not  shoot  them  directly  through  the  heart,  the  ball 
could  not  have  passed  far  above  it — the  animals  must 
be  badly,  if  not  mortally  wounded. 

After  having  poured  a  charge  of  powder  into  my 
rifle,  I  found  that  I  had  but  a  single  ball  left — for  not  an- 
ticipating such  luck,  I  had  started  with  only  five.  The 
confidence  I  at  first  felt,  that  the  deer  I  had  shot  at  must 
soon  full,  was  now  sensibly  diminishing,  although  lin- 
gering hopes  were  still  harboured  in  my  mind  that  the 
more  tender  portions  of  some  one  of  them,  at  least, 
would  furnish  the  raw  material  for  my  supper.  I  had 
finished  loading,  and  on  looking  over  the  little  valley  I 
noticed  that  the  deer,  with  the  daylight,  had  become 
scarce.  There  was  one  buck,  however,  close  by  me — 
not  sixty  yards  distant.  Determined  to  make  sure  of 
this  one,  if  the  others  were  really  unhurt,  I  crept  up 
until  I  verily  believe  he  was  not  thirty  steps  from  me. 
The  motion  of  placing  my  rifle  across  my  knee,  for  I 
made  each  shot  sitting  upon  the  ground,  attracted  the 
animal's  attention  so  much  that  he  absolutely  advanced 
several  steps  towards  me.  He  fairly  seemed  bent  upon 
his  own  destruction — to  meet  me  half  way  in  my  desire 
to  make  my  last  shot  certain. 

The  dimness  of  night  by  this  time  rendered  it  impos- 
sible to  "  draw  a  fine  bead,"  in  hunter's  parlance  ;  but 
then  at  a  distance  at  which  I  could  have  killed  him  with 
a  brickbat,  what  was  the  necessity  of  being  too  partic- 
ular about  my  aim  ?  I  fired. 

The  buck  did  not  bound  off  as  the  others  had  done, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  advanced  towards  me  with  looks  of 
inquiry !  I  knew  that  the  severest  and  most  mortal 
wounds  are  frequently  unattended  with  pain  or  a  sense 
of  injury — I  must  have  given  the  buck  one  of  this  de- 
scription. I  jumped  from  the  ground  and  hobbled  to- 


172  TOM  HANCOCK'S  SUCCESS. 

wards  him  as  fast  as  my  lameness  would  permit.  He 
turned  and  scampered  off  after  his  comrades.  By  a  fair 
mathematical  calculation  the  animal  went  at  least  twen- 
ty yards  while  I  went  one ;  yet  I  continued  the  pursuit 
with  the  hope  that  his  race  would  soon  be  run.  Until 
his  broad,  white  tail  was  lost  in  the  dim  twilight  of 
evening  did  I  press  forward,  and  only  gave  up  the  chase 
when  I  could  see  nothing  to  pursue. 

Thus  ends  a  long  but  veritable  account  of  an  adven- 
ture with  a  herd  of  deer  on  the  Western  prairies.  To 
account  for  their  exceeding  tameness  and  approachabil- 
ity,  I  can  offer  no  other  solution  than  that  they  had  never 
before  met  either  the  white  or  red  man.  The  narrow 
space  of  country  which  afforded  them  food  was  bound- 
ed by  sterile  wastes,  and  their  natural  enemies,  the  red 
men,  had  never  visited  their  peaceful  dell. 

I  slowly  picked  my  way  back  to  camp,  out  of  hu- 
mour and  out  of  conceit  with  myself,  my  rifle,  my  pow- 
der, and  more  especially  my  bullets.  On  reaching  my 
comrades,  I  ascertained  that  Tom  Hancock  had  shot 
three  noble  bucks,  and  had  gone  out  some  time  after  me. 
Nothing,  he  said,  save  the  want  of  light,  had  prevented 
him  from  killing  twenty.  I  was  asked  if  I  had  seen  any 
deer.  I  merely  remarked  that  I  had  seen  several,  and 
here  the  conversation  dropped.  I  was  not  disposed  to 
be  communicative. 

And  what,  the  reader  will  probably  ask,  was  the  rea- 
son of  my  want  of  success  ?  In  all  frankness,  and  with 
a  desire  to  answer  his  question  fairly,  and  to  the  best  of 
my  knowledge,  belief,  and  ability,  I  will  here  state  that 
there  is  a  very  common  disease  prevalent  among  young 
and  inexperienced  hunters  in  Texas,  which  is  known  as 
the  "  buck  ague"  It  manifests  itself  whenever  the  subject 
is  suddenly  brought  in  close  proximity  with  game  of 


THE    " BUCK    AGUE.  173 

the  larger  class,  and  more  difficult  to  kill,  and  its  effects 
are  to  give  a  hurriedness  of  action,  a  tremulousness  of 
the  nerves,  and  an  unwonted  excitableness  to  the  feel- 
ings generally.  It  strikes  me  forcibly,  and  I  have  little 
doubt  the  reader's  impressions  are  closely  akin  to  mine, 
that  I  underwent  a  severe  attack  of  the  "  buck  ague" 
while  on  the  little  hunting  excursion  of  which  I  have  just 
given  a  description — in  plain  English,  that  I  was  too 
nervous  even  to  hit  a  barn  door  at  twenty  steps. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Brackish  Water. — Los  Cuervos,  or  The  Crows. — Carlos  and  his  Speculations. 
— Stream  on  our  Left  visited. — Opinion  of  "  Old  Paint." — Startling  Sur- 
mises.— No  Water. — Endurance  of  the  Mule. — Singular  Valley. — Water 
seen  in  the  Distance. — Perilous  Descent  of  a  Bluff. — Arrival  at  the  River. — 
More  Brackish  Water. — An  Alarm. — Fire  in  Camp. — Terrific  Spread  of  the 
Flames. — Explosion  of  Cartridges. — Night  Ascent  of  the  Bluffs. — Ravages 
of  the  Fire. — Extent  of  our  Loss. — Magnificent  night  Scene. — Our  Camp 
by  Daylight. — Coffee  too  much  burned. — Compelled  to  fall  back  upon  First 
Principles. — Again  on  the  March. — Intolerable  Suffering  from  Thirst. — A 
.Beautiful  Camp.— Disappearance  of  Carlos  and  Brignoli. — Horrors  of  our 
Situation. — Lost,  and  without  a  Guide  upon  the  Prairies. — Shower  on  the 
Espy  Principle. — Party  sent  out  to  Explore. — Rough  Travelling. — Gloomy 
Prospects.— Return  to  Camp.— Ten  Miles  for  a  Draught  of  Water. — "Do- 
ing" our  Washing. — Company  of  Spies  sent  out. — Death  of  Doctor  Brashear. 
— Bitter  Water.—  Rations  reduced. — Sufferings  now  commencing. — Return 
of  one  of  the  Spies. — Again  on  the  March. — Visit  to  a  Commonwealth  of 
Prairie  Dogs. — Description  of  these  singular  Animals. 

THE  13th  of  August  was  an  eventful  day  with  us — > 
one  which  few  of  the  party  can  ever  forget.  The  night 
previous  we  encamped  without  water  for  our  cattle  or 
horses,  and  the  little  we  obtained  for  our  own  use  was 
of  the  worst  quality,  and  swallowed  only  to  allay  the 
intolerable  thirst  brought  on  by  a  long  day's  march  un- 
der the  hot  sun.  The  hard  buffalo  chase  had  jaded  my 
P  2 


174  STARTLING    INFORMATION. 

horse  severely,  and  at  such  a  time  I  well  knew  he  need- 
ed water  more  than  ever ;  but  not  a  drop  could  I  pro- 
cure for  him. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  13th,  before  the  blue  tops  of  several  mount- 
ains were  seen,  far  in  the  distance  to  the  west.  Car- 
los was  the  first  to  discover  them,  and  remarked  that 
they  were  Los  Cuervos,  or  The  Crows,  three  high  mount- 
ains in  the  chain  through  which  the  supposed  Red  River 
has  cut  its  way.  The  place  where  the  stream  winds  its 
course  through  the  mountains  is  called  the  Angosturas, 
or  Narrows,  and  The  Crows  stand  out  in  bold  relief  to 
guide  the  distant  traveller  to  that  point. 

Our  route,  at  the  present  time,  was  along  a  high  prai- 
rie which  appeared  to  be  a  dividing  ridge  between  two 
large  streams.  During  the  morning,  Captain  Caldwell 
visited  the  stream  which  my  companion  and  I  had  dis- 
covered the  day  previous,  while  chasing  the  buffalo. 
On  returning,  about  noon,  he  said  that  the  stream  was  a 
large  one,  and  that  he  believed  it  to  be  the  Brazos ! 
This  river  was  supposed  by  all  to  be  a  long  distance  to 
the  south.  Captain  C.  also,  for  the  first  time,  declared 
his  conviction  that  the  stream  we  had  been  following 
up  from  the  Waco  village  was  the  Wichita,  and  that  the 
Red  River  was  some  seventy-five  or  a  hundred  miles  to 
the  north.  All  were  startled  at  this  report ;  but  still,  so 
strong  was  the  reliance  placed  in  the  assertions  of  Car- 
los, few  could  be  induced  to  give  it  credit. 

We  continued  our  journey  until  the  middle  of  the  af- 
ternoon, altering  our  course  somewhat  to  the  north  to 
avoid  the  bad  travelling  we  found  more  immediately  on 
our  route.  Small  parties  of  men  were  out  in  every  di- 
rection in  search  of  water,  but  they  met  with  no  suc- 
cess. By  this  time  the  want  of  the  reviving  element 


SUFFERING    FROM    THIRST.  175 

was  plainly  seen  in  our  horses ;  their  wild  and  glaring 
eyes,  with  their  broken,  nervous,  and  unsteady  action, 
showing  the  intensity  of  their  suffering.  The  mules,  too, 
suffered  much  from  the  want  of  water,  but  nothing  in 
comparison  with  the  horses  and  oxen.  The  endurance 
of  the  mule  is  never  so  well  tested  as  on  a  journey 
where  both  water  and  grass  are  scarce. 

I  have  said  that  we  continued  our  journey  until  the 
middle  of  the  afternoon.  About  that  time,  and  without 
seeing  any  sign  ahead  that  could  lead  us  to  expect  there 
was  so  great  a  change  in  the  face  of  the  country,  we 
suddenly  reached  the  brow  of  a  precipitous  bluff,  some 
two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  height,  which  overlooked 
a  large  valley  of  broken  and  rugged  appearance.  This 
valley  was  four  or  five  miles  in  width,  a  ridge  of  rough 
hills  bounding  it  on  the  northern  side,  and  not  only  the 
descent  to  the  valley  from  the  bluff  on  which  we  stood, 
but  the  whole  surface  below,  was  covered  by  dry  cedars, 
apparently  killed  the  previous  year  by  fire.  The  spot 
upon  which  we  stood  was  a  level  plain,  covered  with 
rank  and  coarse  grass  several  feet  in  height.  This 
grass,  no  rain  having  fallen  for  weeks,  had  become  as 
dry  as  tinder.  While  consulting  as  to  what  course  we 
should  pursue,  some  one  of  our  party  discovered  water 
at  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles  across  the  valley 
below,  a  turn  in  the  river  bringing  it  to  viewT.  We  im- 
mediately determined,  if  possible,  to  effect  the  descent 
of  the  steep  and  ragged  bluff  before  us,  and  at  least  give 
our  suffering  animals  a  chance  to  quench  their  thirst, 
even  if  the  water  should  prove  too  brackish  for  our 
own  use. 

Some  thirty-five  or  forty  of  the  advance-guard  in- 
stantly determined  upon  undertaking  the  toilsome  and 
dangerous  descent,  and,  to  give  my  horse  the  earliest 


176  A    PERILOUS    DESCENT. 

turn  at  the  water,  I  accompanied  this  party.  After 
winding  and  picking  our  way  for  a  full  hour,  pitching 
down  precipices  that  were  nearly  perpendicular,  and 
narrowly  escaping  frightful  chasms  and  fissures  of  the 
rocks,  we  were  all  enabled  to  reach  the  valley  with 
whole  bones  ;  but  to  do  this  we  were  frequently  obliged 
to  dismount  from  our  horses,  and  in  some  places  fairly 
to  push  them  over  abrupt  descents  which  they  never 
would  have  attempted  without  force.  I  have  said  that 
this  bluff  was  some  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in  height — 
we  travelled  at  least  a  mile  to  gain  this  short  distance, 
so  devious  and  difficult  was  our  path.  The  side  of  the 
bluff  was  formed  of  rough,  sharp-pointed  rocks,  many 
of  them  of  large  size,  and  every  little  spot  of  earth  had, 
in  former  years,  given  nourishment  and  support  to  some 
scraggy  cedar,  now  left  leafless  and  desolate  by  fire. 
Shoots  of  young  cedars,  however,  were  springing  up 
wherever  they  could  find  root-hold ;  but  they  were  not 
destined  to  attain  the  rank  and  standing  of  their  sires. 

After  reaching  the  valley,  we  soon  found  the  sandy 
bed  of  what  had  been  a  running  stream  in  the  rainy 
season.  Immediately  on  striking  it,  our  tired  nags 
raised  their  heads,  pricked  up  their  ears,  and  set  off  at 
a  brisk  trot,  instinctively  knowing  that  water  was  in 
the  vicinity.  The  horse  scents  water  at  an  incredible 
distance,  and  frequently  travellers  upon  the  prairies  are 
enabled  to  find  it  by  simply  turning  their  horses  or 
mules  loose. 

A  tiresome  ride  of  three  or  four  miles  now  brought 

O 

us  to  the  river.  On  reaching  its  banks,  nothing  could 
restrain  our  nags  from  dashing  headlong  down.  Equal- 
ly thirsty  ourselves,  we  had  fondly  hoped  that  the  wa- 
ters might  prove  fresh  and  sweet ;  but  they  were  even 
more  brackish  than  any  we  had  yet  tasted.  Repulsive 


AN    EXPLOSION.  177 

as  it  was,  however,  we  swallowed  enough  to  moisten 
our  parched  lips  and  throats,  and  ten  minutes  after 
were  even  more  thirsty  than  before.  Our  horses,  more 
fond  of  this  water  than  any  other,  drank  until  apparent- 
ly they  could  swallow  no  more. 

While  some  of  our  party  were  digging  into  the  sand 
at  the  edge  of  the  stream,  with  the  hope  of  finding  wa- 
ter more  fresh,  and  others  were  enjoying  the  cooling 
luxury  of  a  bath,  a  loud  report,  as  of  a  cannon,  was 
heard  in  the  direction  of  the  camp,  and  a  dark  smoke 
was  seen  suddenly  to  arise. 

"  An  Indian  attack  !"  was  the  startling  cry  on  all 
sides,  and  instantly  we  commenced  huddling  on  our 
clothes  and  bridling  our  horses.  One  by  one,  as  fast 
as  we  could  get  ready,  we  set  off  for  what  we  supposed 
to  be  a  scene  of  conflict.  As  we  neared  the  camping- 
ground  it  became  plainly  evident  that  the  prairie  was 
on  fire  in  all  directions.  When  within  a  mile  of  the 
steep  bluff,  which  cut  off  the  prairie  above  from  the 
valley,  the  bright  flames  were  seen  flashing  among  the 
dry  cedars,  and  a  dense  volume  of  black  smoke,  rising 
above  all,  gave  a  painful  sublimity  to  the  scene. 

On  approaching  nearer  we  were  met  by  some  of  our 
companions,  who  were  hurriedly  seeking  a  passage  up 
the  steep.  They  had  heard,  from  those  on  the  prairie 
above,  that  the  high  grass  had  caught  fire  by  accident, 
and  that  with  such  velocity  had  it  spread  that  several 
of  the  wagons,  and  among  them  that  of  the  commis- 
sioners, had  been  consumed.  This  wagon  contained, 
in  addition  to  a  large  number  of  cartridges,  all  the 
trunks  and  valuables  of  the  mess  to  which  I  was  at- 
tached, making  me  doubly  anxious  to  gain  the  scene  of 
destruction  and  learn  the  worst.  It  afterward  pro- 
ved that  the  explosion  of  the  cartridges  in  the  wagon 


178  A    PRAIRIE    ON    FIRE. 

was  what  we  had  mistaken  for  the  report  of  our  six- 
pounder. 

With  redoubled  exertions  we  now  pushed  forward 
towards  the  camp,  but  before  we  could  reach  the  base 
of  the  high  and  rugged  bluff  the  flames  were  dashing 
down  its  sides  with  frightful  rapidity,  leaping  and  flash- 
ing across  the  gullies  and  around  the  hideous  cliffs,  and 
roaring  in  the  deep,  yawning  chasms  with  the  wild  and 
appalling  noise  of  a  tornado.  As  the  flames  would 
strike  the  dry  tops  of  the  cedars,  reports,  resembling 
those  of  the  musket,  would  be  heard  ;  and  in  such  quick 
succession  did  these  reports  follow  each  other,  that  I 
can  compare  them  to  nothing  save  the  irregular  dis- 
charge of  infantry — a  strange  accompaniment  to  the 
wild  roar  of  the  devouring  element. 

The  wind  was  blowing  fresh  from  the  west  when  the 
prairie  was  first  ignited,  carrying  the  flames,  with  a 
speed  absolutely  astounding,  over  the  very  ground  on 
which  we  had  travelled  during  the  day.  The  wind 
lulled  as  the  sun  went  down  behind  the  mountains  in 
the  west,  and  now  the  fire  began  to  spread  slowly  in 
that  direction.  The  difficult  passage  by  which  we  had 
descended  was  cut  off  by  the  fire,  and  night  found  our 
party  still  in  the  valley,  unable  to  discover  any  other 
road  to  the  table-land  above.  Our  situation  was  a 
dangerous  one,  too ;  for  had  the  wind  sprung  up  and 
veered  into  the  east,  we  should  have  found  much  diffi- 
culty in  escaping,  with  such  velocity  did  the  flames  ex- 
tend. 

If  the  scene  had  been  grand  previous  to  the  going 
down  of  the  sun,  its  magnificence  was  increased  tenfold 
as  night  in  vain  attempted  to  throw  its  dark  mantle 
over  the  earth.  The  light  from  acres  and  acres,  I 
might  say  miles  and  miles,  of  inflammable  and  blazing 


A    FEARFUL    NIGHT.  179 

cedars,  illuminated  earth  and  sky  with  a  radiance  even 
more  lustrous  and  dazzling  than  that  of  the  noonday 
sun.  Ever  and  anon,  as  some  one  of  our  comrades 
would  approach  the  brow  of  the  high  bluff  above  us,  he 
appeared  not  like  an  inhabitant  of  this  earth.  A  lurid 
and  most  unnatural  glow,  reflected  upon  his  counte- 
nance from  the  valley  of  burning  cedars,  seemed  to 
render  still  more  haggard  and  toilsome  his  burned  and 
blackened  features. 

I  was  fortunate  enough,  about  nine  o'clock,  to  meet 
one  of  our  men,  who  directed  me  to  a  passage  up  the 
steep  ascent.  He  had  just  left  the  bluff  above,  and 
gave  me  a  piteous  recital  of  our  situation.  He  was  en- 
deavouring to  find  water,  after  several  hours  of  unceas- 
ing toil,  and  I  left  him  with  slight  hopes  that  his  search 
would  be  rewarded.  By  this  time  I  was  alone,  not 
one  of  the  companions  who  had  started  with  me  from 
the  river  being  in  sight  or  hearing.  One  by  one  they 
had  dropped  off,  each  searching  for  some  path  by  which 
he  might  climb  to  the  table-land  above. 

The  first  person  I  met.  after  reaching  the  prairie,  was 
Mr.  Falconer,  standing  with  the  blackened  remnant  of  a 
blanket  in  his  hand,  and  watching  lest  the  fire  should 
break  out  on  the  western  side  of  the  camp  ;  for  in  that 
direction  the  exertions  of  the  men,  aided  by  a  strong 
westerly  wind,  had  prevented  the  devouring  element 
from  spreading.  Mr.  F.  directed  me  to  the  spot  where 
our  mess  was  quartered.  I  found  them  sitting  upon 
such  articles  as  had  been  saved  from  the  wagon,  their 
gloomy  countenances  rendered  more  desponding  by  the 
reflection  from  the  now  distant  fire.  I  was  too  much 
worn  down  by  fatigue  and  deep  anxiety  to  make  many 
inquiries  as  to  the  extent  of  our  loss ;  but  hungry,  and 
almost  choked  with  thirst,  I  threw  myself  upon  the 


180  RUIN    AND    DESOLATION. 

blackened  ground  and  sought  forgett'ulness  in  sleep.  It 
was  hours,  however,  before  sleep  visited  my  eyelids. 
From  the  spot  on  which  I  was  lying,  a  broad  sheet  of 
flame  could  still  be  seen,  miles  and  miles  in  width,  the 
heavens  in  that  direction  so  brilliantly  lit  up  that  they 
resembled  a  sea  of  molten  gold.  In  the  west,  a  wall 
of  impenetrable  blackness  appeared  to  be  thrown  up 
as  the  spectator  suddenly  turned  from  viewing  the  con- 
flagration in  the  opposite  direction.  The  subdued  yet 
deep  roar  of  the  element  could  still  be  plainly  heard  as 
it  sped  on  as  with  the  wings  of  lightning  across  the 
prairies,  while  in  the  valley  far  below,  the  flames  were 
flashing  and  leaping  among  the  dry  cedars,  and  shoot- 
ing and  circling  about  in  manner  closely  resembling  a 
magnificent  pyrotechnic  display — the  general  combina- 
tion forming  a  scene  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  which 
the  pen  shrinks  from  describing,  and  to  which  the  power 
of  words  is  wholly  unequal. 

Daylight  the  next  morning  disclosed  a  melancholy 
scene  of  desolation  and  destruction.  North,  south,  and 
east,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  rough  and  bro- 
ken country  was  blackened  by  the  fire,  and  the  removal 
of  the  earth's  shaggy  covering  of  cedars  and  tall  grass 
but  laid  bare,  in  painful  distinctness,  the  awful  chasms 
and  rents  in  the  steep  hillside  before  us,  as  well  as  the 
valley  spreading  far  and  wide  below.  Afar  off,  in  the 
distance,  a  dense  black  smoke  was  seen  rising,  denoting 
that  the  course  of  the  devastating  element  was  still  on- 
ward. Two  of  our  wagons  only  had  been  entirely  con- 
sumed, but  nearly  all  had  suffered.  A  part  of  the  bag- 
gage in  the  commissioners'  wagon  had  been  saved  by 
the  extraordinary  exertions  of  some  of  the  men,  and  just 
as  they  had  relinquished  the  work  the  explosion  of  car- 
tridges, which  had  first  alarmed  the  party  in  the  valley, 


EXTENT   OF    THE    DISASTER.  181 

scattered  the  burning  fragments  of  the  wagon  in  every 
direction.  My  friend  Falconer  was  so  disfigured  that  I 
hardly  knew  him.  His  hair  and  eyebrows  were  scorch- 
ed completely  off,  his  face  was  in  a  perfect  blister,  his 
clothes  burned  from  his  back,  and,  without  a  hat,  he 
seemed  as  though  some  insurance  office  had  met  with  a 
heavy  loss.  Object  of  pity,  however,  as  he  appeared  to 
be,  I  still  could  not  help  smiling  at  the  sad  and  wo-be- 
gone  figure  he  presented.  Among  the  few  trunks  saved 
I  fortunately  found  mine,  containing  nearly  all  my  mon- 
ey, clothing,  watch,  and  other  valuables.  The  loss  of 
a  carpet-bag,  which  contained  my  boots  and  the  rough 
articles  I  wore  upon  the  road,  was  all  I  had  to  regret 
in  the  way  of  private  property.  Not  so  with  the  mess 
to  which  I  was  attached.  The  remnant  of  coffee  we 
still  had  left  was  burned  entirely  too  much  ;  our  pots, 
pans  and  kettles,  knives  and  forks,  were  converted  into 
old  iron — everything  was  gone.  We  had  nothing  to 
eat,  however,  except  half  rations  of  miserably  poor  beef, 
and  the  necessity  of  falling  back  upon  first  principles, 
or,  in  other  words,  eating  with  our  fingers,  annoyed  us 
but  little. 

The  wagon  of  the  commissioners  contained,  besides 
our  private  baggage,  a  quantity  of  jewelry,  blankets, 
cartridges,  rifles,  muskets,  &c.  These  were  all  destroy- 
ed. The  other  wagon  which  was  consumed  was  load- 
ed with  goods,  and  from  this  nothing  was  saved.  At 
one  time  the  ammunition  wagon,  containing  a  large 
quantity  of  powder,  was  on  fire,  and  only  saved  by  the 
daring  exertions  of  some  of  our  men.  It  may  appear 
singular  to  some  of  my  readers  that  so  much  damage 
could  be  caused  by  the  burning  of  grass  alone,  for  on 
the  spot  where  the  wagons  were  drawn  up  there  was 
nothing  else ;  but  it  should  be  remembered  that  this 

VOL.  I.— Q, 


182  REMEDIES    FOR   THIRST. 

grass  was  very  high,  had  been  killed  by  dry  weather, 
and  flashed  up  and  spread  almost  with  the  rapidity  of  a 
train  of  powder  on  being  ignited.  It  is  very  easy,  when 
a  fire  upon  the  prairies  is  seen  coming  towards  a  party, 
to  escape  its  dangers  by  kindling  the  grass  immedi- 
ately about  and  taking  possession  of  the  newly-burned 
ground  before  the  distant  flames  come  up ;  but  in  this 
instance  the  fire  commenced  on  the  windward  side,  and 
with  a  frightful  rapidity  flashed  directly  along  our  line 
of  wagons.  The  only  wonder  at  the  time  was,  how 
anything  had  been  saved  from  the  furious  element  that 
roared  and  crackled  around. 

We  packed  up  and  arranged  our  baggage  as  well  as 
we  could,  hunted  up  and  drove  in  our  cattle,  and  late 
in  the  forenoon  made  a  start.  Our  course  was  nearly 
west,  and  along  the  level  prairie  that  overlooked  the 
large  valley  upon  our  right.  The  mountains  that  we 
had  seen  the  day  previous  gradually  opened  to  the  view, 
and  as  they  became  more  visible,  did  not  so  well  answer 
the  description  Carlos  had  given  of  The  Crows.  But 
few,  however,  felt  disposed  to  doubt  the  man's  words. 
We  are  slow  in  giving  credence  to  any  story,  however 
plausible,  that  runs  counter  to  our  desires  and  hopes. 

Our  road  was  a  good  one  this  day,  and  we  journeyed 
on  with  unusual  rapidity.  The  men  suffered  incredibly 
from  thirst,  and  were  constantly  seen  eating  the  pods 
from  the  mesquit-trees,  drawing  the  little  moisture  they 
possessed  to  relieve  their  parched  tongues  and  throats. 
A  bullet  has  considerable  virtue  in  relieving  thirst,  and 
a  piece  of  raw  hide  imparts  much  moisture  to  the 
mouth,  as  I  have  proved  by  sad  experience. 

At  night  we  encamped  in  a  beautiful  dell,  covered 
with  the  larger  mesquit-trees  and  excellent  grass.  This 
encampment  appeared  to  be  near  the  termination  of 


DOUBTS    AND    SUSPICIONS.  183 

the  valley  of  cedars,  and  the  face  of  the  country  on- 
ward was  now  entirely  changed,  being  broken  and 
mountainous.  The  only  water  we  could  find  in  thejri- 
cinity  of  this  camp,  which  would  otherwise  have  been 
one  of  the  finest  on  our  route,  was  entirely  too  brack- 
ish for  use.  The  cattle  and  horses  were  fond  of  it ;  the 
men,  however,  could  not  swallow  it  without  great  nau- 
sea, and  it  did  not  in  the  least  quench  their  thirst.  That 
evening  Carlos  left  camp,  in  company  with  an  Italian 
named  Brignoli,  as  they  said,  in  search  of  water  and 
the  best  route  for  our  wagons  on  the  ensuing  day. 
Late  at  night  they  returned,  Brignoli  showing  some 
specimens  of  quicksilver  he  had  found,  which  were  said 
to  be  very  rich  by  those  who  pretended  to  any  know- 
ledge on  the  subject.  He  had  joined  the  expedition  as 
a  volunteer,  but  was  known  to  be  constantly  in  search 
of  precious  minerals. 

In  the  mean  time  every  one  in  camp  who  spoke  Span- 
ish was  questioning  Carlos  as  to  our  position  and  pros- 
pects. Those  who  doubted  his  knowledge  or  mistrust- 
ed his  faith  did  not  hesitate  to  declare  their  misgivings 
aloud.  No  threats  were  offered,  but  Carlos  understood 
just  enough  of  English  to  know  that  they  were  talking 
of  him,  and  not  saying  anything  complimentary  either 
to  his  knowledge  of  the  country  or  his  honesty.  The 
next  morning  early  he  was  missing,  and,  on  looking 
about  the  camp,  Brignoli,  too,  was  found  absent  This 
circumstance  created  the  greatest  excitement  among 
all ;  yet  Carlos  had  many  believers  and  friends — =and 
they  still  insisted  that  he  had  only  left  the  camp  for  a 
short  time,  to  hunt.  The  oxen  were  yoked  and  hitched 
to  the  wagons,  and  every  preparation  made  for  resu- 
ming our  journey,  but  Carlos  was  yet  missing. 

It  is  impossible,  either  to  be  placed  or  imagined,  in  a 


184  EVASION    OF    CARLOS. 

worse  and  more  pitiable  situation  than  the  one  in  which 
we  now  found  ourselves.  The  hope  that  we  were 
within  some  sixty  miles  of  the  frontier  settlements  van- 
ished with  Carlos,  for  we  knew  that  he  would  not  have 
left  so  long  as  there  was  a  probability  of  his  leading  us 
safely  through  the  difficulties  in  which  we  were  in- 
volved. He  had  been  offered  inducements  too  strong 
for  frim  thus  to  desert  us,  unless  he  himself  was  lost  and 
feared  the  consequences  of  leading  us  farther  astray. 
We  were  suffering,  too,  from  the  want  of  fresh  water, 
and  knew  full  well  that  there  was  none  on  the  road  we 
had  come  short  of  three  days'  march  over  a  prairie 
rendered  desolate  by  the  great  fire.  Our  only  hope 
was  in  going  ahead,  and  when  nine  o'clock  came  we 
pushed  on  without  rudder  or  compass,  the  melancholy 
truth  plainly  visible  in  almost  every  face  that  we  were 
lost  among  the  wilderness  prairies  of  the  West. 

As  we  pursued  our  melancholy  journey,  there  were 
still  a  few  among  us  who  thought  that  Carlos  would 
come  up  and  honestly  account  for  his  absence.  They 
even  declared  their  belief  that  we  had  now  arrived 
within  sight  of  the  Angosturas,  or  Narrows  of  Red 
River,  and  that  if  Carlos  had  really  left  us  it  was  be- 
cause he  feared  that  some  of  the  leading  men  in  New 
Mexico,  inimical  to  the  Texans,  might  blame  him  for 
guiding  us  directly  to  their  homesteads.  About  noon 
we  were  fortunate  enough  to  find  a  cool  and  delicious 
spring  of  fresh  water,  and  near  it  a  pond  large  enough 
to  water  all  our  horses  and  cattle.  After  drinking 
deeply  at  the  fountain-head,  and  fervently  hoping  for  a 
continuance  of  such  good  fortune,  we  filled  our  gourds 
and  canteens,  and  resumed  our  march.  Whenever  we 
looked  back  we  could  see  an  immense  smoke  in  the 
east,  plainly  denoting  that  the  prairie  fire  which  had 


THE    MISTAKE   APPARENT.  185 

broken  out  two  days  previous  was  still  raging.  Early 
in  the  afternoon  a  heavy,  black  cloud  was  noticed  di- 
rectly over  the  spot,  from  which  rain  was  descending 
apparently  in  torrents ;  beyond,  and  in  fact  all  around 
this  cloud,  the  sky  was  clear  and  without  a  speck. 
Here  was  a  shower  got  up  on  the  Espy  principle,  al- 
though at  a  heavy  cost  to  our  party. 

Our  course  was  now  nearly  west.  On  our  left,  and 
running  in  nearly  a  northwest  and  southeast  direction, 
a  range  of  mountains  was  plainly  visible — the  chain 
which,  it  was  now  evident  enough,  Carlos  had  mistaken 
for  The  Crows.  I  say  mistaken,  for  up  to  the  morning 
of  his  departure  I  believe  the  fellow's  intentions  were 
honest,  and  that  he  really  supposed  the  party  to  be  on 
Red  River.  The  water  in  the  Wichita,  for  that  the 
river  we  were  on  undoubtedly  was,  resembled  in  every 
way  that  of  the  former,  while  the  country  around  bore 
the  same  appearance ;  and  as  Carlos  had  trapped  on 
both  streams,  probably  without  noticing  either  careful- 
ly, and  knew  but  little  of  them  even  as  low  down  as 
Coffee's  Station,  and  was  unacquainted  with  the  Amer- 
ican name  of  the  river,  the  mistake  might  easily  occur. 

I  have  mentioned  the  appearance  of  the  country  to 
the  left ;  on  our  right  it  was  much  broken,  and  evident- 
ly impassable  for  wagons.  A  party  of  some  thirty  of 
us,  all  well  mounted,  left  the  command  to  explore  thor- 
oughly this  latter  section,  and  our  leader,  Captain  Cald- 
well,  declared  that  he  would  not  return  until  he  had 
satisfactorily  ascertained  whether  we  were  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Narrows  or  not.  Captain  C.  was  the 
first  man  to  suggest  that  the  stream  up  which  we  had 
been  so  long  journeying  was  not  the  Red  River,  and 
also  to  express  doubts  whether  Carlos  really  knew  as 
much  of  the  country  as  he  pretended. 
Q2 


186  TEN    MILES    FOR    WATER. 

After  working  our  way  through  a  succession  of  rug- 
ged hills,  cedar-brakes,  and  ravines,  for  a  distance  of 
some  ten  miles,  we  at  length  reached  the  stream  upon 
our  right.  It  had  dwindled  down  to  a  small  brook,  and 
the  head  spring  was  evidently  somewhere  in  the  mount- 
ains in  our  vicinity.*  The  water  was  extremely  salt, 
and  unfit  for  use.  Several  trails  were  found  leading 
along  the  banks,  made  by  Indians  and  mustangs,  and 
in  one  place  mule  and  horse  tracks  were  seen,  together 
with  the  print  of  a  white  man's  shoe  in  the  sand,  evi- 
dently made  either  by  Carlos  or  his  companion,  or  by 
one  of  Rowland's  men.  Being  satisfied  that  we  were 
not  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Narrows,  and  that  it 
was  impossible  to  take  the  wagons  by  the  road  we  had 
travelled,  we  started  back  for  the  spring  we  had  found 
in  the  morning,  and  arrived  there  at  sunset,  ourselves 
and  horses  completely  worn  down  with  fatigue. 

Captain  Caldwell  had  shot  a  fat  buck  during  the  day, 
which  had  been  dressed,  and  by  the  side  of  the  cool 
spring  we  made  a  delicious  meal.  At  dark,  we  re- 
saddled  our  horses,  and  after  finding  the  trail  of  the 
wagons  with  some  difficulty,  pushed  on  and  reached 
the  command  about  ten  o'clock,  encamped  without  wa- 
ter, and  extremely  solicitous  for  our  return. 

Early  the  next  morning  spies  were  sent  forward  to 
seek  water  and  a  passage  through  the  mountains,  my- 
self, with  three  or  four  companions,  going  back  to  the 
spring,  a  distance  of  some  ten  miles,  for  a  draught  of 
water !  It  may  seem  a  long  distance,  ten  miles,  to  go  for 
a  draught  of  fresh  water,  but  at  that  time  I  would  have 
gone  fifty.  After  allowing  our  horses  a  rest  of  two  or 

*  I  have  little  doubt  that  we  were  now  among  the  Wichita  Mountains. 
They  have  never,  I  believe,  been  laid  down  upon  any  map,  but  old  trappers 
and  campaigners  often  speak  of  them. 


DEATH    OP    DR.    BRASHEAR.  187 

three  hours,  and  doing  our  washing — for  at  this  time 
every  man  was  his  own  washer-woman — we  set  off  to 
rejoin  the  command.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  say  that 
our  washing  was  very  light,  consisting  only  of  a  check- 
ed shirt  and  a  pair  of  coarse  stockings  or  socks. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  camping-place 
of  the  previous  night,  and  found  that  the  command  had 
moved  forward.  A  brisk  trot  brought  us  up  with  our 
companions  at  dark,  encamped  by  a  small  spring  and 
creek  of  bitter  water,  strongly  impregnated,  to  judge 
from  the  taste,  with  copperas  and  magnesia.  Whatever 
the  substances  held  in  solution  by  this  water  may  have 
been,  it  operated  as  a  powerful  cathartic ;  but  the  men,  un- 
able to  find  any  other,  partook  of  it  in  large  quantities. 

On  the  following  morning  a  council  of  officers  was 
held,  at  which  it  was  determined  to  send  a  party  of  fifty 
of  our  best-mounted  men  in  a  northerly  direction,  with 
orders  not  to  return  until  they  had  found  Red  River. 
Orders  were  also  given  to  the  commander  of  the  party, 
Captain  Caldwell,  to  send  guides  back  from  day  to  day, 
as  a  good  wagon  road  could  be  found,  in  order  that  the 
expedition  might  get  on  as  fast  as  possible. 

The  party  left  on  the  17th  of  August,  and  on  the  same 
day  Doctor  Brashear,  our  assistant  surgeon,  died  of  a 
liver  complaint,  and  was  buried  with  military  honours. 
He  was  a  native,  if  I  recollect  right,  of  Kentucky,  much 
respected  by  all  who  knew  him. 

Another  council  was  held  after  the  spies  had  left,  and 
at  this  meeting  it  was  resolved  to  reduce  our  rations  of 
beef.  Where  we  were  was  problematical ;  our  distance 
from  the  settlements  no  one  could  even  calculate,  and 
as  we  might  still  be  months  in  reaching  them,  it  was 
evident  enough  that  our  beef  would  not  hold  out.  The 
regular  ration  of  three  pounds  a  day  to  each  man  was 


188  A    PASSAGE    FOUND. 

cut  down  to  one  pound  and  a  half,  and  this  at  a  time 
when  the  beef  had  become  extremely  poor  and  destitute 
of  nutriment,  and  more  than  the  former  rations  was  re- 
ally required  to  support  men  worn  down  and  exhausted 
by  long  and  fatiguing  marches,  and  weakened  by  the 
effects  of  bad  water  and  no  water  at  all.  Prudence 
justified  this  reduction,  however,  and  the  men  submitted 
to  it  with  a  cheerfulness  that  showed  they  felt  the  neces- 
sity of  the  course.  In  the  mean  time  regular  hunting 
parties  were  detailed  for  the  purpose  of  adding  to  our 
scanty  stock  of  provisions  as  much  as  possible  ;  yet,  al- 
though deer  and  antelope  were  far  from  scarce,  nothing 
like  a  sufficiency  of  meat  could  be  procured  for  our 
wants.  Buffalo  were  seldom  seen,  only  one  being  kill- 
ed during  the  four  days  we  passed  at  the  camp  of  the 
bitter  waters. 

Much  to  our  joy,  a  guide  returned  on  the  evening  of 
the  20th,  and  reported  that  a  passage  had  been  found 
through  the  mountains.  Many  of  us  were  unwell  and  ex- 
tremely weak  from  the  effect  of  the  strong  purgative  wa- 
ters ;  but  the  news  that  we  were  again  to  be  on  the  move 
was  of  the  most  welcome  kind,  and  every  preparation 
was  made  for  an  early  start  the  next  morning. 

Learning,  from  the  guide  who  had  returned,  that  there 
was  a  large  city  or  commonwealth  of  prairie  dogs  di- 
rectly on  the  route  the  command  would  take,  with  two 
companions  I  went  on  to  visit  these  neighbours.  We 
were  induced  by  a  double  object — first,  by  a  desire 
to  examine  one  of  the  republics  about  which  prairie 
travellers  have  said  so  much ;  and  secondly,  to  obtain 
something  to  eat,  for  the  flesh  of  these  animals  was  said 
to  be  excellent. 

Our  road  wound  up  the  sides  of  a  gently-ascending 
mountain  for  some  six  or  seven  miles.  On  arriving  at 


PRAIRIE   DOG8.  189 

the  summit  we  found  a  beautiful  table-land  spread  out 
before  us,  reaching  miles  in  every  direction.  The  soil 
appeared  to  be  uncommonly  rich,  and  was  covered  with 
a  luxurious  growth  of  mesquit-trees.  The  grass  was 
of  the  curly  mesquit  species,  the  sweetest  and  most  nu- 
tritious of  all  the  different  kinds  of  that  grass,  and  it  was 
told  me  that  the  dogs  seldom  establish  their  towns  and 
cities  unless  on  sites  where  this  grass  is  found  in  abun- 
dance. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a  short  distance,  after  reach- 
ing this  beautiful  prairie,  before  we  came  upon  the  out- 
skirts of  the  commonwealth.  A  few  scattering  dogs 
were  seen  scampering  in,  their  short,  sharp  yelps  giving 
a  general  alarm  to  the  whole  community. 

The  first  brief  cry  of  danger  from  the  outskirts  was 
soon  taken  up  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  now  nothing 
was  to  be  heard  or  seen  in  any  direction  but  a  barking, 
dashing,  and  scampering  of  the  mercurial  and  excitable 
denizens  of  the  place,  each  to  his  burrow.  Far  as  the 
eye  could  reach  the  city  extended,  and  all  over  it  the 
scene  was  the  same. 

We  rode  leisurely  along  until  we  had  reached  the 
more  thickly-settled  portion  of  the  place.  Here  we 
halted,  and  after  taking  the  bridles  from  our  horses  to 
allow  them  to  graze,  we  prepared  for  a  regular  attack 
upon  the  inhabitants.  The  burrows  were  not  more  than 
ten  or  fifteen  yards  apart,  with  well-trodden  paths  lead- 
ing in  different  directions,  and  I  even  fancied  I  could 
discover  something  like  regularity  in  the  laying  out  of 
the  streets. 

We  sat  down  upon  a  bank  under  the  shade  of  a  mes- 
quit, and  leisurely  surveyed  the  scene  before  us.  Our 
approach  had  driven  every  one  to  his  home  in  our  im- 
mediate vicinity,  but  at  the  distance  of  some  hundred 


190  MOVEMENTS    OF    THE    ANIMALS. 

yards  the  small  mound  of  earth  in  front  of  each  bur- 
row was  occupied  by  a  dog,  sitting  erect  on  his  hinder 
legs  and  coolly  looking  about  for  the  cause  of  the  recent 
commotion.  Every  now  and  then  some  citizen,  more 
adventurous  than  his  neighbour,  would  leave  his  lodg- 
ings on  a  flying  visit  to  a  friend,  apparently  exchange  a 
few  words,  and  then  scamper  back  as  fast  as  his  legs 
would  carry  him. 

By-and-by,  as  we  kept  perfectly  still,  some  of  our  near 
neighbours  were  seen  cautiously  poking  their  heads 
from  out  their  holes,  and  looking  craftily,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  inquisitively  about  them.  Gradually  a  cit- 
izen would  emerge  from  the  entrance  of  his  domicil, 
come  out  upon  his  observatory,  perk  his  head  cunning- 
ly, and  then  commence  yelping  somewhat  after  the 
manner  of  a  young  puppy — a  quick  jerk  of  the  tail  ac- 
companying each  yelp.  It  is  this  short  bark  alone  that 
has  given  them  the  name  of  dogs,  as  they  bear  no  more 
resemblance  to  that  animal,  either  in  appearance,  action, 
or  manner  of  living,  than  they  do  to  the  hyena. 

We  were  armed,  one  with  a  double-barrelled  shot-gun, 
and  another  with  one  of  Colt's  repeating  rifles  of  small 
bore,  while  I  had  my  short,  heavy  rifle,  throwing  a  large 
ball,  and  acknowledged  by  all  to  be  the  best  weapon  in 
the  command.  It  would  drive  a  ball  completely  through 
a  buffalo  at  the  distance  of  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards, 
and  there  was  no  jumping  off  or  running  away  by  a 
deer  when  struck  in  the  right  place — to  use  a  common 
expression,  "  he  would  never  know  what  had  hurt 
him."*  Hit  one  of  the  dogs  where  we  would,  with  a 
small  ball,  he  would  almost  invariably  turn  a  peculiar 
somerset,  and  get  into  his  hole — but  by  a  ball  from  my 

*  I  trust  the  reader  has  forgotten  my  adventure  with  the  large  drove  of 
deer,  as  related  in  the  previous  chapter. 


A    TOUCHING  INCIDENT.  191 

rifle,  the  entire  head  of  the  animal  would  be  knocked 
off,  and  after  this  there  was  no  escape.  With  the  shot- 
gun, again,  we  could  do  nothing  but  waste  ammunition. 
I  fired  it  at  one  dog  not  ten  steps  off,  having  in  a  good 
charge  of  buckshot,  and  thought  I  must  cut  him  into 
fragments — I  wounded  him  severely,  but  with  perhaps 
three  or  four  shot  through  him  he  was  still  able  to  wrig- 
gle and  tumble  into  his  hole. 

For  three  hours  we  remained  in  this  commonwealth, 
watching  the  movements  of  the  inhabitants,  and  occa- 
sionally picking  off  one  of  the  more  unwary.  No  less 
than  nine  were  got  by  the  party,  and  one  circumstance 
I  would  mention  as  singular  in  the  extreme,  and  show- 
ing the  social  relationship  which  exists  among  these  an- 
imals, as  well  as  the  kind  regard  they  have  one  for 
another.  One  of  them  had  perched  himself  upon  the 
pile  of  earth  in  front  of  his  pole,  sitting  up  and  exposing 
a  fair  mark,  while  a  companion's  head  was  seen  poking 
out  of  the  entrance,  too  timid,  perhaps,  to  trust  himself 
farther.  A  well-directed  ball  from  my  rifle  carried 
away  the  entire  top  of  the  former's  head,  and  knocked 
him  some  two  or  three  feet  from  his  post  perfectly 
dead.  While  reloading,  the  other  boldly  came  out, 
seized  his  companion  by  one  of  his  legs,  and  before  we 
could  reach  the  hole  had  drawn  him  completely  out  of 
sight.  There  was  a  touch  of  feeling  in  the  little  inci- 
dent— a  something  human,  which  raised  the  animals  in 
my  estimation,  and  ever  after  I  did  not  attempt  to  kill 
one  of  them,  except  when  driven  by  extreme  hunger. 

The  prairie  dog  is  about  the  size  of  the  common  wild 
rabbit  of  the  United  States,  heavier,  perhaps,  more  com- 
pact, and  with  much  shorter  legs.  In  appearance  it 
closely  resembles  the  woodchuck,  or  groundhog,  of  the 
Northern  and  Middle  States,  although  not  more  than 


192          THE  "BIG  DOG"  OF  THE  SETTLEMENT. 

two  thirds  as  large.  The  colour  is  the  same,  being  a 
dark,  reddish  brown,  while  the  formation  of  the  head 
and  teeth  is  the  same  as  in  all  the  different  species  of 
squirrels,  to  which  family  it  belongs.  In  their  habits 
they  are  clannish,  social,  and  extremely  convivial,  never 
living  alone  like  other  animals,  but,  on  the  contrary,  al- 
ways found  in  villages  or  large  settlements.  They  are 
a  wild,  frolicsome,  madcap  set  of  fellows  when  undis- 
turbed, uneasy  and  ever  on  the  move,  and  appear  to 
take  especial  delight  in  chattering  away  the  time,  and 
visiting  from  hole  to  hole  to  gossip  and  talk  over  each 
other's  affairs — at  least  so  their  actions  would  indicate. 
When  they  find  a  good  location  for  a  village,  and  there 
is  no  water  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  old  hunters  say, 
they  dig  a  well  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  community. 
On  several  occasions  I  crept  close  to  their  villages, 
without  being  observed,  to  watch  their  movements. 
Directly  in  the  centre  of  one  of  them  I  particularly  no- 
ticed a  very  large  dog,  sitting  in  front  of  the  door  or  en- 
trance to  his  burrow,  and  by  his  own  actions  and  those 
of  his  neighbours  it  really  seemed  as  though  he  was  the 
president,  mayor,  or  chief — at  all  events,  he  was  the  "  big 
dog"  of  the  place.  For  at  least  an  hour  I  secretly 
watched  the  operations  in  this  community.  During  that 
time  the  large  dog  I  have  mentioned  received  at  least  a 
dozen  visits  from  his  fellow-dogs,  which  would  stop  and 
chat  with  him  a  few  moments,  and  then  run  off  to  their 
domicils.  All  this  while  he  never  left  his  post  for  a 
moment,  and  I  thought  I  could  discover  a  gravity  in  his 
deportment  not  discernible  in  those  by  which  he  was 
surrounded.  Far  is  it  from  me  to  say  that  the  visits  he 
received  were  upon  business,  or  had  anything  to  do  with 
the  local  government  of  the  village ;  but  it  certainly  ap- 


aUEER    CAPERS.  193 

peared  so.  If  any  animal  has  a  system  of  laws  regu- 
lating the  body  politic,  it  is  certainly  the  prairie  dog. 

If  a  person  is  fortunate  enough  to  gain  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  one  of  their  villages  unobserved — a  very  dif- 
ficult matter,  for  their  sentinels  are  always  on  the  alert 
— he  will  discover  the  inhabitants  gambolling,  frisking, 
and  running  about  the  well-trodden  paths,  occasionally 
stopping  a  moment  as  if  to  exchange  a  word  with  a 
neighbour,  and  then  hurrying  back  to  their  own  lodges. 
Should  he  chance  to  discover  some  quiet  citizen,  sitting 
gravely  at  his  doorway,  he  has  but  to  watch  him  for  a 
short  time  ere  he  will  notice  some  eccentricity  of  con- 
duct. His  manner  of  entering  his  hole  will  remind  the 
spectator  of  the  antics  of  Pantaloon  in  a  pantomime  ; 
for,  instead  of  walking  quietly  in,  he  does  it  with  an  ec- 
centric bound  and  half  somerset,  his  hind  feet  knock- 
ing together  as  he  pitches  headlong  into  the  darkness 
below  ;  and  before  the  aforesaid  spectator  has  yet  fairly 
recovered  from  the  half  laugh  caused  by  the  drollery  of 
the  movement,  he  will  see  the  dog  slowly  thrust  his 
head  from  his  burrow,  and  with  a  pert  and  impudent 
expression  of  countenance  peer  cunningly  about,  as  if 
to  ascertain  the  effect  his  recent  antic  had  caused. 

A  singular  species  of  owl  is  invariably  found  residing 
in  and  about  the  dog-towns.  It  has  a  longer  body  and 
smaller  head  than  the  common  owl  of  the  settlements, 
yet  possesses  all  the  gravity  of  deportment  and  solem- 
nity of  mien  which  distinguish  the  genus. 

One  would  suppose  that  a  constant  intercourse  with 
neighbours  of  such  comic  temperaments  as  the  dogs 
possess  would  destroy  his  austerity  of  demeanour ;  yet 
the  owl  of  the  dog-village  sits  upon  the  earthen  mound 
in  front  of  the  hole,  and  surveys  the  eccentricities  of 
his  friends  without  a  change  of  countenance.  He  joins 

VOL.  I.— R 


194  INMATES    OF   THE   BURROWS. 

them  not  in  any  of  their  sports,  yet  still  seems  to  be  on 
the  best  of  terms  ;  and  as  he  is  frequently  seen  entering 
and  emerging  from  the  same  hole,  this  singular  bird 
may  be  looked  upon  as  a  member  of  the  same  family, 
or  at  least  a  retainer  whose  services  are  in  some  way 
necessary  to  the  comfort  and  well-being  of  the  animal 
whose  hospitality  he  shares. 

Rattlesnakes,  too,  and  of  immense  size,  dwell  in  the 
same  lodges  \vith  the  dogs  ;  but  the  idea  that  has  been 
entertained  of  their  living  upon  sociable  terms  of  com- 
panionship is  utterly  without  foundation.  The  snakes 
I  look  upon  as  loafers,  not  easily  shaken  off  by  the  reg- 
ular inhabitants,  and  they  make  use  of  the  dwellings  of 
the  dogs  as  more  comfortable  quarters  than  they  can 
find  elsewhere.  We  killed  one  a  short  distance  from  a 
burrow,  which  had  made  a  meal  of  a  half-grown  dog ; 
and  although  I  do  not  think  they  can  master  the  larger 
animals,  the  latter  are  still  compelled  to  let  them  pass 
in  and  out  without  molestation — a  nuisance,  like  many 
in  more  elevated  society,  that  cannot  be  got  rid  of. 

The  first  town  we  visited  was  much  the  largest  seen 
on  the  entire  route,  being  some  two  or  three  miles  in 
length  by  nearly  a  mile  in  width  at  the  widest  part. 
In  the  vicinity  were  smaller  villages — suburbs  of  the 
larger  town,  to  all  appearance.  After  spending  some 
three  hours  in  the  very  heart  of  the  settlements,  and 
until  not  an  inhabitant  could  be  seen  in  any  direc- 
tion, we  resaddled  our  horses  and  set  off  in  search  of 
the  command.  Thus  ended  my  first  visit  to  one  of 
the  numerous  prairie-dog  commonwealths  of  the  Far 
West. 


PRAIRIE-DOG   MEAT.  195 


CHAPTER  X. 

A  Meal  of  Prairie  Dogs. — Arrival  at  another  brackish  Water  Camp. — Shower 
at  Night,  with  fresh  Water  in  the  Morning. — Return  of  the  Spy  Company. 
—A  regular  "  Northeaster."—  Report  of  the  Spies.  —  Disagreeable  Biv- 
ouac.— Indians  in  Camp. — Horses  stolen. — A  bad  Bargain. — Daring  of  the 
Indians. — Fine  Weather  again. — Once  more  on  the  Road. — Dog  Towns. 
— Meeting  with  a  Party  of  Indians. — Horse  Meat  far  from  being  bad  Eat- 
ing.— Wolves  about. — A  dreary  Desert. — Delicious  fresh-water  Stream. — 
Latitude  and  Longitude  again  taken.  —  Pleasant  Prospects.  —  Again  en- 
compassed with  Difficulties. — A  Passage  out  found. — Steppes. — Mesquit 
Prairie  and  Prairie  Dogs. — Mountains  in  the  Distance. — Singing  Birds,  and 
Thoughts  of  Home.  —  Delusive  Hopes.  —  More  Horses  stolen.  —  Bed  of 
Large  River  crossed.  —  Arrival  at  the  Quintufue.  —  Large  Indian  Camp 
discovered. — Caygiiason  all  Sides. — Indian  Provisions — A  Party  sent  out. 
—  Farther  Advance  impossible. — A  Night  without  Water. — Preparations 
for  taking  a  back  Track. — Exciting  News. — Firing  of  Guns  heard. — Lieu- 
tenant Hull  and  four  Men  killed  by  Caygiias. — A  Chase  after  Indians. — 
Return  to  the  Quintufue. — Determination  to  divide  the  Command. — De- 
scription of  the  Caygiias. 

WE  had  scarcely  travelled  three  miles,  after  leaving 
the  large  dog-town,  before  we  descried  the  white  tops 
of  our  wagons  at  some  distance  in  our  rear.  Finding  a 
dry  mesquit,  we  broke  off  some  of  the  larger  branches, 
kindled  a  fire,  and  cooked  for  each  man  a  dog.  The 
meat  we  found  exceedingly  sweet,  tender,  and  juicy — 
resembling  that  of  the  squirrel,  only  that  it  was  much 
fatter.  Our  meal  over,  we  next  wasted  three  or  four 
hours  in  vainly  endeavouring  to  shoot  a  deer  or  ante- 
lope. Numbers  of  them  were  seen ;  but  the  hunting 
parties  had  scoured  their  range,  killed  several  of  them, 
and  rendered  the  animals  unusually  shy.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  we  sought  the  trail  of  our  wagons,  and  on 
finding  it  set  off  at  a  pace  which  brought  us  up  with 


196  RED    RIVER    FOUND. 

the  command  ere  nightfall,  encamped  near  a  large, 
reddish-coloured  hill  or  mountain,  and  close  by  a  small 
creek  of  brackish  water — a  tributary,  doubtless,  of  the 
Wichita,  or  else  the  main  stream. 

Scarcely  had  we  finished  a  scanty  supper  of  poor 
beef,  and  hastily  rolled  ourselves  in  our  blankets,  when 
it  commenced  raining  in  torrents — pouring  down  with- 
out intermission  for  hours,  and  drenching  us  complete- 
ly. Little  did  we  care  for  this,  however,  as  we  had 
the  satisfaction  in  the  morning  of  getting  fresh  and  pure 
water  in  abundance — the  first  for  a  week. 

After  devouring  the  last  of  the  prairie  dogs  we  had 
killed  the  preceding  day,  wringing  our  blankets,  and 
drying  our  clothes  as  well  as  we  were  able,  we  pursued 
our  joui-ney  in  a  course  nearly  northwest.  We  had  no 
little  trouble  in  crossing  the  creek  before  us,  swollen  by 
the  heavy  rain  of  the  night  previous  ;  but  in  a  couple  of 
hours  wagons  and  all  were  safely  on  the  opposite  side. 

After  toiling  across  the  soft  and  muddy  prairie  a  dis- 
tance of  ten  miles,  we  at  length  reached  another  run- 
ning stream,  the  point  at  which  our  guide  had  left  the 
spy  company.  Here  we  halted  to  await  the  return  of 
the  latter,  or  until  another  guide  should  be  sent  back. 
During  the  night  the  wind  veered  round  into  the  north- 
e^rt,  bringing  with  it  a  cold,  drizzling,  and  extremely 
disagreeable  rain,  which  continued  the  next  day.  In 
the  mean  time  the  spy  company  returned,  reporting  that 
they  had  found  a  large  stream  to  the  north,  which  they 
confidently  believed  to  be  Red  River,  or  one  of  its  main 
tributaries. 

Night  came,  the  cold  rain  and  raw  wind  still  con- 
tinuing. We  were  encamped  immediately  upon  the 
stream,  the  banks  of  which  were  high,  and  flanked  by  a 
narrow  skirting  of  timber.  Under  this  bank  I  led  my 


INDIAN  HORSE-THIEVES.  197 

horse  at  dusk,  and  tied  him  fast  to  a  small  tree.  Here 
he  was  protected  from  the  piercing  northern  blasts,  and 
to  afford  the  same  shelter,  Doctor  Brenham  led  thither 
his  horse,  a  noble  white  animal  of  the  best  blood,  and 
confined  him  to  the  same  tree  with  mine. 

Several  of  our  horses  were  tied  under  this  bank,  the 
poorer  animals  being  allowed  to  rough  it  upon  the  prai- 
rie in  front  of  our  encampment,  hobbled,  and  many  of 
them  staked,  to  prevent  the  storm  from  driving  them  off 
during  the  night. 

On  awaking  in  the  morning,  it  was  ascertained  that 
the  horse  of  Doctor  B.  had  been  stolen  by  Indians. 
The  lariat  was  cut,  and  part  of  it  still  fast  to  the  tree. 
My  horse  was  standing  quietly  where  I  had  left  him,  his 
colour  probably  preventing  the  daring  robbers  from 
seeing  him.  Some  half  dozen  horses  were  taken  with 
Doctor  B.'s,  among  them  Mr.  Falconer's.  Generally  the 
Indians  selected  the  best  horses  in  camp,  dark  as  was 
the  night ;  but  they  took  themselves  in  in  taking  Mr. 
Falconer's,  for  he  was  continually  performing  some  un- 
seemly antics,  had  frequently  caused  much  fright  among 
our  other  horses,  and  was  worth  but  little,  even  setting 
his  tricks  aside. 

To  show  how  daring  the  Indian  horse-thieves  were, 
1  have  but  to  mention  that  Doctor  Brenham's  horse  was 
tied  within  six  yards  of  the  spot  where  we  were  sleep- 
ing ;  and  after  passing  the  guard,  by  no  means  an  easy 
matter,  the  rascals  were  compelled  to  creep  within  a 
few  feet  of  us  before  they  could  reach  their  prey.  An 
Indian  bow  was  found  in  the  vicinity  of  our  camp, 
which  the  thieves  had  left  in  their  haste,  and  one  of  the 
artillery  mules  was  shot  through  with  an  arrow,  the 
animal  probably  not  being  able  to  move  fast  enough 
when  the  Indians  withdrew  from  our  vicinity. 

R  2 


198  SAVED   BY    STORMS. 

As  the  day  advanced  the  rain  gradually  ceased,  and 
before  ten  o'clock  the  sun  once  more  appeared.  A  hap- 
pier set  of  men  were  never  seen,  for  many  of  us  had 
eaten,  slept,  and  waked  in  wet  clothes  and  blankets 
through  the  eight-and-forty  previous  hours.  Some  lit- 
tle time  was  occupied  in  filling  up  the  creek  with  earth 
and  logs,  so  as  to  secure  a  safe  passage  for  the  wagons, 
and  about  noon  the  whole  expedition  was  once  more  on 
the  road,  travelling  in  a  northwest  direction.  During 
the  day  we  passed  through  a  succession  of  dog-towns, 
scattered  along  every  half  mile  upon  the  route,  as  their 
favourite  grass  could  be  procured.  Large  numbers  of 
the  animals  were  killed  by  the  men — killed  for  their 
meat  alone. 

At  night  we  encamped  in  front  of  a  small  rnot  or  clump 
of  timber,  and  near  a  pond  of  fresh  water.  However 
much  the  rain  of  the  two  previous  days  had  annoyed  us, 
we  now  found  that  it  had  saved  the  expedition.  Not  a 
drop  of  water,  save  that  which  had  recently  fallen, 
could  be  found  in  any  direction,  and  little  doubt  was 
entertained  that  we  must  inevitably  have  perished  had 
it  not  been  for  the  heavy  storms. 

A  party  of  three  hunters  came  in  after  we  had  en- 
camped, and  reported  that  they  had  fallen  in  with  a 
party  of  nine  Indians  during  the  day,  and  had  held  a 
"talk"  with  them.  The  fellows  spoke  Spanish,  although 
badly,  and  were  very  insolent  in  their  bearing.  They 
did  not  dare  attack  our  men,  however,  and  finally  rode 
off  yelling  across  the  prairie.  They  were  doubtless 
Cayguas,*  and  belonged  to  the  party  that  had  stolen  our 
horses  the  night  before. 

*  Mr.  Navarro,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  different  tribes  south  of 
Red  River,  told  me  they  were  Caygwus,  and  gave  the  name  this  spelling.  It 
is  pronounced  Kiwaa,  yet  it  is  generally  written  Kioway. 


MUSTANG*    BEEF.  199 

Another  party  of  our  men  shortly  after  came  in,  their 
horses  loaded  down  with  deer,  antelope,  and  other  meat 
which  they  had  killed  during  the  day.  The  mess  to 
which  I  was  attached  received  a  large  ration  of  meat, 
which  those  who  sent  it  said  was  young  buffalo.  It  was 
fat,  tender,  and  very  juicy — the  most  delicious  meat,  I 
then  thought,  I  had  ever  tasted — and  what  with  some 
fine  mushrooms  we  had  found  on  the  march,  together 
with  broiled  antelope  liver,  we  made  a  sumptuous  meal. 
Not  a  little  surprised  were  we  afterward,  when  we  as- 
certained that  the  meat  we  had  partaken  of  so  heartily, 
and  praised  so  much,  was  the  flesh  of  a  mustang ! 

After  having  tied  our  horses  close  at  hand,  many  of 
them  to  the  wagons,  and  taken  up  our  quarters  in  their 
immediate  vicinity,  we  stretched  ourselves  upon  the 
ground,  and  slept  soundly,  without  a  visit  from  Indians 
or  disturbance  of  any  kind,  until  near  morning,  when  a 
pack  of  wolves,  drawn  to  our  camp  by  the  smell  of 
fresh  meat,  set  up  a  dismal  howling.  A  heavy  dew, 
the  first  we  had  noticed  since  our  departure  from  Aus- 
tin, had  fallen  during  the  night,  and  the  day  broke  with 
difficulty  through  a  heavy  fog  :  but  at  about  eight 
o'clock  the  sun  made  his  appearance,  dispersing  fog, 
wolves,  dew,  and  all. 

Our  course  of  the  previous  day,  northwest,  which 
was  considered  the  right  one,  we  were  still  enabled  to 
keep,  with  an  excellent  road  for  the  first  five  miles  of 
our  morning's  march.  About  noon  we  reached  a  sin- 
gular tract,  unlike  anything  we  had  previously  seen. 
North  and  south,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  nothing 
could  be  seen  but  a  sandy  plain,  covered  with  scrub- 
oak  bushes,  two  or  three  feet  high,  upon  which  were 
found  innumerable  acorns  of  a  large  size.  This  desert, 
although  the  wheels  of  the  wagons  sank  several  inches 


200  PRIVATIONS    AND    THEIR    CONSEQUENCES. 

in  the  sand,  we  were  obliged  to  cross.  Night  set  in  be- 
fore the  passage  was  made — horses,  cattle,  and  drivers 
alike  tired  out  with  the  excessive  fatigues  of  the  day. 
We  were  fortunate,  however,  in  finding  a  cool  and  pure 
stream  of  fresh  running  water  just  on  the  western  edge 
of  the  waste.  On  the  opposite  side,  the  prairie  had  been 
recently  burned,  the  fresh  grass  just  springing  up,  and 
here  we  encamped. 

At  this  camp  the  latitude  and  longitude  were  taken 
by  Lieutenant  Hull.  The  result  of  the  observation, 
which,  from  the  instruments  not  being  in  order,  could 
not  be  depended  upon,  I  inserted  in  my  note-book,  but 
have  now  forgotten.  Lieutenant  H.  said  that  we  could 
not  be  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  the  settlements, 
that  we  could  easily  reach  them  in  ten  days,  and  ex- 
pressed himself  highly  pleased  with  the  prospect  before 
us.  Little  did  he  then  anticipate  the  horrible  fate  that 
was  soon  to  befall  himself,  or  the  many  gloomy  days 
of  travel,  of  starvation,  and  of  uncertainty  in  store  for 
those  whose  spirits  he  had  elevated  by  anticipations  of 
soon  reaching  the  settlements. 

On  starting  the  next  morning  after  this  observation 
was  made,  and  ascending  a  high  ridge  of  hills  in  the  vi- 
cinity, the  country  before  us  was  found  extremely  rough 
and  broken.  We  pushed  forward,  however,  some  one 
way,  some  another — buffeting,  turning,  and  twisting 
about,  without  order  or  system,  until  nearly  dark.  Long 
and  tiresome  marches,  bad  water,  and  not  half  enough 
of  even  the  worst  provisions,  had  combined  to  weaken 
and  dispirit  the  men,  render  them  impatient  of  control, 
and  inclined  to  disobey  all  orders.  The  consequence 
was,  that  one  party  would  go  in  this  direction  in  quest 
of  grapes  or  plums,  another  in  that,  hunting  for  game 
or  water,  and  nearly  all  discipline  was  lost.  It  is  diffi- 


A  SUDDEN    TRANSITION.  201 

cult,  and  requires  a  most  efficient  officer  to  keep  even 
regular  soldiers  under  subjection,  when  half  starved  and 
broken  down  by  fatigue — nothing  can  restrain  volun- 
teers under  such  circumstances. 

After  crossing  and  recrossing  deep  gullies,  our  prog- 
ress in  one  direction  impeded  by  steep  hills,  and  in 
another  by  yawning  ravines,  we  finally  encamped  at 
night  not  two  miles  from  where  we  began  our  day's 
march,  although  we  had  really  travelled  fifteen.  Large 
plum  patches  had  been  found  during  the  day,  and  such 
an  inordinate  craving  had  our  men  for  almost  any  spe- 
cies of  vegetable,  that  the  country  for  miles  in  every 
direction  was  scoured,  midnight  coming  before  all  the 
different  parties  arrived  in  camp. 

A  passage  out  of  our  difficulties  was  found  next 
morning,  and  after  winding  about  until  noon  among  the 
hills,  we  at  length  reached  a  beautiful  table-land  cover- 
ed with  mesquit-trees. 

So  suddenly  did  we  leave  the  rough  and  uneven  sur- 
face of  the  valley,  and  so  striking  was  the  transition, 
that  the  scenic  world  of  the  theatre  —  and  particularly 
the  change  from  the  humble  cottage  of  the  dancing  girl 
to  the  Hindoo  paradise  in  "  La  Bayadere" — was  brought 
forcibly  to  the  mind. 

On  starting  in  the  morning,  nothing  was  to  be  seen 
but  a  rough  and  rugged  succession  of  hills  before  us — 
piled  one  upon  another,  each  succeeding  hill  rising 
above  its  neighbour.  At  the  summit  of  the  highest  of 
these  hills  the  beautiful  and  fertile  plain  opened  sudden- 
ly to  view,  giving  scope  to  our  vision  and  our  hopes 
that  was  unanticipated  and  thrice  welcome.  The  coun- 
try between  the  Cross  Timbers  and  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains rises  by  high  steppes,  for  the  different  lines  of  hills 
can  be  called  by  no  other  name.  As  the  traveller  jour- 


202  SINGING    BIRDS. 

neys  westward,  he  meets,  at  long  intervals,  ridges  of 
hills  and  mountains,  running  nearly  north  and  south, 
presenting  the  most  serious  barriers  to  his  farther  ad- 
vance. As  he  ascends  these,  he  anticipates  a  corre- 
sponding descent  on  the  opposite  side  ;  but  in  a  majority 
of  instances,  on  reaching  the  summits,  he  finds  nothing 
before  him  but  a  level  and  fertile  prairie. 

We  halted  an  hour  or  two,  on  reaching  the  beautiful 
table-land,  to  rest  our  weary  cattle  and  give  our  horses 
an  opportunity  to  graze.  Little  villages  of  prairie 
dogs  were  scattered  about  upon  the  prairie,  and  num- 
bers were  shot  by  the  men,  to  help  out  their  scanty 
rations.  The  fat  of  this  animal,  old  hunters  say,  is  an 
infallible  remedy  for  the  rheumatism.  In  the  evening 
we  resumed  the  march,  and  at  sundown  encamped 
upon  the  banks  of  a  running  stream  of  fresh  water. 
The  blue  tops  of  three  or  four  high  mountains  were 
discerned  in  the  distance,  which,  such  phases  did  hope 
ascribe  to  them,  we  thought  answered  the  description 
Carlos  had  given  of  The  Crows. 

We  were  awakened  early  the  next  morning  by  the 
warbling  of  innumerable  singing-birds,  perched  among 
the  bushes  along  the  borders  of  the  stream.  Among  the 
notes  I  recognised  those  of  the  robin,  the  lark,  and  the 
blue-bird,  and  as  it  was  the  first  time  any  of  them  had 
been  heard  since  the  commencement  of  our  journey, 
thoughts  of  home  and  civilization  came  fresh  to  the 
heart  here  among  the  western  wilds.  How  these 
birds  ever  strayed  so  far  from  their  usual  haunts,  for 
they  are  seldom  found  except  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  settlements,  is  more  than  I  can  imagine.  There  they 
were,  however,  telling  us  of  scenes  to  which  we  had 
long  been  strangers,  and  giving  us  pleasing  but  falla- 
cious promises  of  a  speedy  return  to  the  abodes  of  at 


PLEASANT    DREAMS.  203 

least  semi-civilization.  In  our  fond  imaginings  they 
typified  the  dove,  telling  us  that  the  wilderness  had 
been  passed ;  but,  alas  !  their  song,  like  the  siren's, 
was  uttered  but  to  deceive. 

Inspiriting  as  was  the  singing  of  these  birds,  we  were 
obliged  to  leave  them  in  the  middle  of  their  matinal 
concert,  and  pursue  our  weary  march.  Throughout 
the  day  we  had  an  excellent  road,  and  when  night 
came  we  had  made  something  like  twenty  miles,  still 
in  a  northwest  direction,  which  was  considered  our 
true  course.  The  mountains  that  had  been  seen  the 
day  before  were  now  plainly  visible,  and  well  answer- 
ed the  description  Carlos  had  given  of  the  landmarks 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Narrows  of  Red  River. 
The  opinion  advanced  by  many,  that  we  were  ap- 
proaching the  end  of  our  journey,  spread  a  general  joy 
through  camp  ;  and  this  opinion  received  fresh  strength 
upon  the  return  of  two  small  hunting  parties  after  night, 
who  reported  that  they  had  seen  what  appeared  to  be 
Mexican  cart  tracks  upon  the  prairie.  With  thankful 
hearts  we  swallowed  our  scanty  supper  that  night,  and 
the  burden  of  our  dreams,  after  retiring  to  rest  upon 
the  ground,  was  of  bread  and  butter,  potatoes,  and  the 
ether  substantials  of  life — things  that  had  long  been 
strangers  to  our  mouths,  but  were  fresh  in  our  mem- 
ories. 

Early  the  next  morning  it  was  ascertained  that  sev- 
eral horses  and  mules  were  missing,  and  although  dili- 
gent search  was  made  by  their  owners,  they  were  never 
recovered.  The  night  had  been  clear  and  bright,  the 
guard  neither  seeing  nor  hearing  aught  to  excite  their 
suspicions ;  but  the  animals  were  stolen,  doubtless,  by 
a  marauding  party  of  Indians. 

The  march  was  once  more  resumed,  several  well- 


204  INDIANS    ENCOUNTERED. 

armed  parties  scouring  the  prairies  in  various  direc- 
tions in  search  of  water,  Indians,  and  our  lost  animals. 
About  noon,  after  a  toilsome  journey  through  a  hilly 
and  broken  country,  the  command  crossed  the  bed  of 
a  stream  which  was  evidently  a  large  river  during  the 
rainy  season.  At  this  time  but  little  water  was  found, 
and  that  so  salt  that  it  was  impossible  to  drink  it.  To- 
wards night  we  came  to  the  banks  of  a  clear  and  de- 
licious fresh-water  stream,  called,  as  we  afterward  as- 
certained, the  Quintufue,  the  waters  of  which  were 
bubbling  along  over  a  bed  of  golden  sand.  Running 
nearly  north  and  south,  at  the  distance  of  some  six 
miles  to  our  left,  was  the  chain  of  hills  I  have  mention- 
ed, and  rising  above  the  rest  were  three  peaks,  which 
really  deserved  the  name  of  mountains.  We  crossed 
the  stream  with  our  wagons,  and  encamped  close  on 
the  opposite  side. 

Scarcely  had  we  unsaddled  our  horses  and  turned 
them  loose  before  one  of  our  hunting  parties  came  in 
and  reported  that  a  large  body  of  Indians  were  in  our 
immediate  vicinity,  and  that  they  had  driven  off  an  im- 
mense cavallada  or  drove  of  horses.  Soon  another 
party  arrived,  with  information  that  they  had  met  a 
small  body  of  Indians,  one  of  whom  spoke  Spanish. 
They  said  that  they  were  Caygiias,  and  on  being  inter- 
rogated concerning  the  direction  towards  Santa  Fe, 
gave  equivocal  answers.  They  pointed  to  the  south- 
west, however,  to  what  appeared  a  passage  through 
the  hills,  and  said  that  was  the  direction  to  Chihuahua. 
They  pretended  to  know  nothing  about  the  Rio  Colo- 
rado or  Red  River.  These  Indians  were  mounted  on 
fine  horses,  dressed  in  buckskin,  and  armed  with  lances 
and  bows  and  arrows. 

The  stream  upon  which  we  were  now  encamped  ap- 


AN    ABANDONED    CAMP.  205 

peared  to  have  its  source  in  the  long  chain  of  hills  upon 
our  left,  and  ran  in  nearly  a  northeast  direction.  A 
short  distance  above  us,  occupying  a  beautiful  situation 
on  the  same  stream,  the  main  camp  of  the  Indians  in 
our  neighbourhood  was  discovered.  It  had  apparently 
been  just  deserted,  the  inhabitants,  in  their  great  haste 
to  drive  off  and  secure  their  horses,  not  having  time 
even  to  cache*  their  other  property.  Tent-poles,  skins, 
numerous  rough  utensils,  besides  a  quantity  of  dried 
buffalo,  mustang,  and  deer  meat,  were  found  precisely 
as  they  had  left  them.  The  latter  we  appropriated  to 
our  own  use,  and,  in  our  half-starving  condition,  was 
found  extremely  palatable. 

Captain  Strain,  with  a  party  of  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  men,  was  ordered  out  immediately,  with  orders  to 
find  and  bring  in  some  of  the  Indians,  if  possible,  and  at 
all  events  to  ascertain  their  feelings  and  intentions.  In 
the  mean  time  the  horses  and  cattle  were  herded  close 
within  the  lines,  a  strong  guard  set,  and  the  cannon 
placed  in  an  advantageous  position  to  guard  against  a 
night  attack.  The  night  passed  off,  however,  without 
any  alarm. 

The  journey  was  resumed  early  in  the  morning,  our 
course  being  now  nearly  north  to  avoid  the  chain  of 
hills  on  our  left.  By  many  it  was  thought  that  Red 
River  came  through  a  pass  in  this  chain,  and  it  was 
even  conjectured  that  we  should  find  that  stream  at  the 
base  of  the  farthest  mountain  in  the  ridge,  so  well  did 
the  region  about  us  answer  the  description  given  by 
Carlos,  before  he  left  us,  of  the  country  in  the  immedi- 
ate vicinity  of  the  Narrows. 

*  This  is  a  term  used  by  the  Rocky  Mountain  trappers  and  Western  tra- 
ders, and  is  equivalent  to  the  English  word  bury.  Furs  and  other  valuables, 
when  secreted  in  the  ground,  are  called  cached.  The  word  is  an  obvious 
derivative  from  the  French  cocker,  to  hide. 

VOL.  L— S 


206  GLOOMY    PROSPECTS. 

A  party  of  some  twenty  or  thirty  had  gone  forward 
in  the  morning  for  the  purpose  of  finding  the  best  road, 
while  the  mam  body  followed  slowly  on.  While  stop- 
ping to  noon,  near  a  small  hole  of  muddy  water,  the 
last-mentioned  party  returned,  and  reported  that  they 
had  encountered  deep  and  impassable  ravines  in  a 
northern  direction — impassable  even  for  mules.  A  halt 
for  the  night,  although  there  was  no  water  by  this  time 
even  for  the  men,  was  now  called,  and  a  party  of  ten 
picked  men,  well  mounted,  sent  out  under  Lieutenant 
Hann  to  scour  the  country  in  a  northeast  direction,  in 
order,  if  possible,  to  find  a  road  around  the  head  of  the 
gullies  and  ravines.  At  the  time,  it  was  considered  im- 
possible to  cross,  with  the  wagons,  the  high  and  rugged 
hills  and  mountains  west  of  us,  and  our  only  course  ap- 
peared to  be  by  a  road  to  the  northeast. 

In  the  mean  time  night  overtook  us,  and  still  no  tidings 
were  received  from  Captain  Strain,  who  had  now  been 
out  more  than  twenty-four  hours.  The  bright  dreams 
of  the  night  before  vanished  when  we  saw  that  our  on- 
ward course  was  impeded  by  impassable  barriers,  and 
in  their  stead  were  forebodings  of  the  gloomiest  nature. 
When  the  mind  is  harassed  by  uncertainty,  it  is  singu- 
lar how  trifling  a  thing  can  raise  the  spirits  to  the  high- 
est pitch  of  excitement  or  depress  them  to  a  state  bor- 
dering on  despair. 

We  passed  another  night  sadly  enough,  yet  without 
an  alarm  or  losing  any  of  our  horses ;  but  the  morning 
brought  no  news  of  Captain  Strain.  Our  camp  was  in 
a  small  bend,  protected  in  the  rear  by  a  skirting  of  cot- 
ton-wrood  and  hackberry  trees  which  fringed  the  dry 
bed  of  a  creek.  The  berries  of  the  latter  tree  were  ripe, 
and  the  limbs  were  completely  stripped  by  our  men.  to 
satisfy  a  gnawing  desire  for  food  of  a  vegetable  nature, 


AN   ALARM.  207 

A  report  was  raised,  early  in  the  morning,  that  fresh 
water  had  been  discovered  two  miles  distant,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  mountains,  and  our  suffering  animals  were 
driven  there  immediately ;  but  at  about  eight  o'clock 
they  returned  unsuccessful  in  their  search.  To  endure 
the  horrible  sufferings  we  were  experiencing  seemed  no 
longer  possible,  and,  at  a  consultation  held  among  the 
officers,  it  was  resolved  to  fall  back  upon  the  stream  we 
had  left  the  previous  morning,  and  there  await  the  re- 
turn of  the  scouting  parties  which  had  been  sent  out. 
The  weather,  I  might  here  add.  was  insupportably  hot, 
adding  much  to  our  suffering. 

Our  conjectures  were  anything  but  flattering  on  ac- 
count of  the  continued  absence  of  Captain  Strain  and 
his  party,  now  out  more  than  thirty-six  hours.  It  was 
known,  however,  that  both  he  and  Lieutenant  Hann,  as 
well  as  the  parties  of  three  and  five  who  were  out  hunt- 
ing for  water  on  their  own  account,  could  easily  find 
their  way  back  to  camp  by  following  the  trail  of  the 
wagons,  and  immediate  preparations  were  accordingly 
made  to  retrace  our  steps  to  the  old  camp,  or  some 
point  higher  up  on  the  same  stream. 

The  horses  and  mules  were  driven  up  and  saddled, 
the  oxen  were  yoked,  and  the  other  preparatory  work 
was  in  progress  for  our  departure,  when  suddenly  a 
young  man  came  dashing  into  camp  from  the  north- 
ward, evidently  much  agitated,  and  announced  that  a 
large  body  of  Indians  were  pursuing  a  party  of  our  men 
directly  towards  us.  Scarcely  had  he  finished  speaking 
before  a  firing  was  heard  but  a  few  hundred  yards  dis- 
tant, a  slight  roll  of  the  prairie  concealing  the  combat- 
ants from  our  sight.  Fast  as  they  could  mount  horses, 
a  party  of  some  fifty  of  our  men  dashed  off  towards  the 
scene  of  strife,  while  the  wagons  were  drawn  up  in 


208  FIVE    MEN    KILLED. 

square,  the  cattle  and  horses  brought  inside,  and  every 
preparation  made  to  resist  an  attack,  which  was  now 
considered  certain.  The  first  impression  wras,  that  the 
scouting-parties  had  been  entirely  cut  off,  and  that  these 
successes  would  induce  the  Indians  to  attack  our  main 
body. 

Just  as  the  party  of  our  men  who  had  gone  out  to  the 
relief  of  their  companions  reached  the  spot,  the  Indians 
retreated  ;  but  their  bloody  work  was  done.  Scattered 
about  within  the  circumference  of  a  few  yards  were 
the  dead  bodies  of  Lieutenant  Hull  and  four  of  our  men, 
stripped,  scalped,  and  horribly  mutilated,  while  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  ground  gave  strong  evidence  that  man- 
fully and  with  strong  hearts  they  had  resisted  the  attack 
of  their  adversaries.  They  had  left  camp  but  a  short 
time  previous,  probably  with  the  hope  of  finding  water, 
and  in  returning  had  been  thus  cruelly  murdered.  But 
one  look  at  their  mangled  bodies  was  sufficient  to  stir 
deep  feelings  of  revenge  in  every  heart,  and  madly  did 
our  men  spur  their  horses  in  pursuit,  with  the  vain  hope 
of  avenging  the  death  of  their  companions.  The  In- 
dians were  at  least  four  times  their  number,  yet  they 

'     »'  */ 

retreated,  and,  being  far  better  mounted,  were  able  to 
keep  out  of  the  way.  So  near,  however,  were  our  men, 
that  they  could  plainly  see  the  dead  bodies  of  several 
of  the  Indians,  packed  upon  extra  horses  they  had  with 
them  for  that  purpose.  The  prairie  warriors  always 
have  horses  trained  especially  to  carry  off  their  dead 
or  wounded  companions,  which  they  take  with  them  on 
going  into  action  ;  and  it  is  considered  one  of  the  great- 
est calamities  that  can  befall  them  if  they  are  compelled 
to  leave  one  of  their  number  in  the  hands  of  an  enemy. 
The  pursuit  of  the  bloodthirsty  Cayguas,  for  such  the 
Indians  proved  to  be,  was  continued  by  our  men  until 


A    DESPERATE    COMBAT.  209 

it  was  evident  that  they  could  not  be  overtaken,  and 
then  reluctantly  given  up.  Several  times  during  the 
chase,  the  Indians  reined  up  their  well-trained  horses  on 
the  higher  rolls  of  the  prairies,  and  formed  in  line  as  if 
intending  to  give  battle ;  but  before  our  men  could  get 
within  gunshot  they  were  off  again,  with  lightning  speed, 
across  the  plain.  On  returning  to  the  spot  where  our 
men  had  fallen,  a  closer  examination  showed  how  hard 
and  desperate  had  been  the  struggle.  Lieutenant  Hull 
had  received  no  less  than  thirty  lance  and  arrow  wounds 
before  he  fell,  and  the  broken  stock  of  one  of  Colt's 
rifles  was  still  retained  in  the  grasp  of  a  stout  man, 
named  Mayby,  plainly  telling  us  that  he  had  fought  to 
the  last,  and  that  after  discharging  the  piece  he  had  still 
continued  the  combat.  The  heart  of  one  of  the  men 
was  cut  out,  and  had  not  the  Indians  been  driven  off  the 
other  bodies  would  have  been  mutilated  in  the  same 
way.  Two  of  the  horses  of  our  unfortunate  comrades 
were  lanced  close  by — the  others  were  probably  in  bet- 
ter condition  and  more  able  to  run,  and  had  been  taken 
off  as  spoils  by  the  savages.  It  was  evident  enough 
that  Lieutenant  Hull  and  his  men  had  retreated  from 
the  Indians  until  they  had  found  it  impossible  to  elude 
them,  and  that  they  had  then  thrown  themselves  from 
their  horses  in  a  body  and  sold  their  lives  at  a  fearful 
rate.  The  resistance  they  made  had  probably  terrified 
their  adversaries,  and  induced  them  to  fly  when  they 
saw  our  party  coming  up,  although  they  outnumbered 
the  Texans  at  least  as  three  to  one. 

A  party  of  fifty  well-armed  men,  taking  with  them 
shovels,  were  sent  out  immediately  on  the  melancholy 
errand  of  burying  our  murdered  companions,  while  the 
main  body  retraced  their  steps  towards  the  Quintufue, 
which  is  said  to  be  a  branch  of  the  Palo  Duro,  or  Hard 
S  2 


A    COUNCIL    OF    WAR. 

Wood  River.  Scarcely  had  we  started,  before  all  were 
rejoiced  by  the  appearance  of  Captain  Strain  with  part 
of  his  men.  He  told  us  that  he  had  scoured  the  prairies 
in  almost  every  direction,  but  without  success,  having 
been  unable  to  hold  a  parley  with  any  of  the  Indians, 
although  he  had  seen  several  small  parties.  He  also 
reported  that  he  had  been  unable  to  find  either  a  road 
or  water :  there  was  a  route  by  which  the  ravines 
might  be  headed  in  a  course  a  little  north  of  east,  but  in 
no  other  direction.  A  part  of  his  men  had  left  him 
early  in  the  morning,  having  gone  back  to  the  Quintu- 
fue  for  water. 

About  noon  the  main  body  of  the  command  again 
reached  the  river,  at  a  point  somewhat  higher  up  than 
the  former  camping-ground.  Here,  after  drinking  in- 
credible quantities  of  the  water,  and  allowing  our  suffer- 
ing animals  also  to  quench  a  thirst  which  their  eyes  and 
general  appearance  too  plainly  showed  had  nearly  driv- 
en them  mad,  a  strong  position  was  chosen,  and  we  en- 
camped. 

In  the  evening  a  general  consultation  of  all  the  offi- 
cers was  held.  At  this  meeting  it  was  resolved  to  de- 
spatch a  party  of  one  hundred  chosen  men,  on  the  best 
horses  in  camp,  with  instructions  not  to  return  until  the 
settlements  of  New  Mexico  were  found.  Although  no 
hopes  were  entertained  that  a  passage  over  the  mount- 
ains could  be  effected  by  the  wagons,  it  was  still  thought 
that  mounted  men  would  be  able  to  accomplish  it. 

The  distance  to  the  nearest  settlements  was  not  sup- 
posed to  be  more  than  one  hundred  miles  at  farthest, 
and  it  was  accordingly  determined  that  the  party  should 
take  five  days'  provisions,  allowing  but  scanty  rations. 
The  course  to  be  taken  was  northwest,  and  this  course 
was  to  be  kept,  as  near  as  circumstances  would  admit, 


A    TRYING   SITUATION.  211 

until  the  party  struck  either  the  settlements  near  Santa 
Fe,  the  Rio  Grande  at  a  point  below,  or  the  trail  of  the 
St.  Louis  traders  above.  On  reaching  New  Mexico,  a 
party  was  immediately  to  be  sent  back  to  the  command 
with  guides  and  provisions. 

However  impolitic  it  may  be  considered  to  divide  a 
command,  in  this  instance  such  a  course  could  not  be 
avoided.  We  were  completely  lost,  and  without  pow- 
er of  moving  forward  ;  our  provisions,  which  had  for 
weeks  been  scanty,  were  now  almost  entirely  exhaust- 
ed ;  the  men  were  enfeebled  by  long  marches,  with  only 
poor  beef  enough  each  day  to  support  nature  ;*  and  in 
addition  we  were  surrounded  by  a  large  and  powerful 
tribe  of  well-mounted  Indians,  scouring  our  vicinity,  and 
always  on  the  look-out  to  pick  off  any  small  party  that 
might  be  sent  out  to  hunt,  or  for  other  purposes.  All 
these  reasons  considered,  it  will  at  once  be  seen  that  but 
two  courses  offered — one,  to  destroy  the  wagons,  and  to 
retreat  hastily  towards  Texas  ;  the  other,  to  divide  the 
command,  and  send  one  party  forward  with  orders  not 
to  return  until  the  settlements  were  reached.  I  will  not 
say  that  the  wiser  course  was  adopted  ;  but  in  answer 
to  any  one  who  may  blame  the  leaders  of  the  expedi- 
tion for  dividing  the  command,  I  would  remark  that 
few  men,  under  the  circumstances,  would  have  advised 
to  the  contrary. 

So  soon  as  a  division  of  the  command  had  been  de- 
termined upon,  several  of  the  oxen  were  killed  for  the 
use  of  the  party  to  be  sent  onward,  and  preparations 
were  made  to  dry  the  meat  on  the  ensuing  morning. 
Night  came,  but  with  it  came  no  news  of  Lieutenant 
Hann  and  his  little  party.  On  calling  the  roll  it  was 

*  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  state  that  every  part  of  each  ox  killed  was  de- 
voured :  the  blood,  hide,  entrails — nothing  was  lost. 


212  A    DIVISION   RESOLVED    ON. 

also  found  that  others  besides  those  killed  in  the  morn- 
ing were  missing,  and  with  the  full  conviction  that  they 
had  shared  the  fate  of  Lieutenant  Hull  and  his  men,  we 
that  night  laid  ourselves  to  rest.  The  next  morning  we 
were  still  without  tidings  of  our  absent  comrades. 

The  party  detailed  by  General  McLeod  to  march  in 
advance  was  placed  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Sutton,  an  excellent  officer.  It  consisted  of  eighty- 
seven  officers  and  privates,  with  merchants,  travellers, 
and  servants  enough  to  swell  the  number  to  ninety-nine. 
Among  the  officers  were  Captain  Lewis,  and  Lieuten- 
ants Lubbock,  Munson,  Brown,  and  Seavy,*  the  latter 
acting  as  adjutant :  the  civilians  were  Colonel  Cooke, 
Dr.  Brenham,  Major  Howard,  Messrs.  Van  Ness,  Fitz- 
gerald, Frank  Combs,  and  myself.  We  were  all  well 
armed  and  mounted  on  the  best  horses  in  camp,  and 
deemed  ourselves  able  to  cut  our  way  through  any  par- 
ty of  Indians  that  might  dare  to  attack  us.  That  we 
should  be  molested  was  considered  more  than  probable, 
as  it  was  impossible  to  leave  the  command  without  be- 
ing perceived  by  the  scouting  parties  of  Cayguas  con- 
tinually hovering  about  our  camp,  who  could  observe 
our  every  movement.  In  a  fortified  position  we  felt 
confident  they  would  not  attack  the  command  ;  but  now 
that  we  were  divided  they  might  be  imboldened  to  at- 
tack the  smaller  party. 

The  Cayg'das  appear  to  be  a  powerful  tribe,  about 
whom,  from  their  geographical  position,  little  has  been 
known.  Their  range  is  south  of  the  line  of  travel  of 
the  Missouri  traders,  and  north  of  such  parts  of  the  Ca- 
manche  country  as  were  known  to  the  Texans,  their 

*  Lieutenant  Seavy  was  educated  at  West  Point,  had  seen  much  service 
in  Texas,  and  was  one  of  the  best  officers  connected  with  the  Santa  Fe  ex- 
pedition. He  died  of  yellow  fever  at  Puente  Nacional,  Mexico,  much  belov- 
ed by  his  brother  officers  as  well  as  the  common  soldiers. 


ACCOUNT   OF    THE    CAYGUAS.  213 

hunting-grounds  probably  not  having  been  visited  by 
the  whites  previous  to  our  march  across  them.  In 
their  customs  and  manner  of  living  they  resemble,  in 
every  way,  the  Camanches,  and  may  be  said  to  be  a 
branch  of  that  large  and  powerful  tribe.  They  lead  a 
roving  life,  esteem  the  whites  as  their  natural  enemies, 
and  never  give  them  quarter.  Like  the  Camanches, 
they  are  expert  on  horseback  to  an  extraordinary  de- 
gree, leaping  from  one  horse  to  another  while  at  full 
speed,  and  performing  many  feats  upon  the  prairies 
never  undertaken  even  by  the  best  equestrians  of  the 
circus.  In  their  attacks  upon  an  enemy  they  expose 
but  a  small  portion  of  their  persons,  riding  along  in  par- 
allel lines  with  their  enemies,  their  bodies  lying  on  the 
opposite  sides  of  their  well-trained  steeds,  and  in  this 
position  they  discharge  their  arrows  directly  under  their 
horse's  necks.  If  they  meet  with  an  unfortunate  party 
whom  they  outnumber,  they  charge  openly,  despatching 
all  with  their  lances.  While  encamped,  they  live  in 
tents  constructed  of  poles  and  buffalo  hides.  These  can 
be  struck  at  a  moment's  warning,  and  the  whole  party 
will  move  off  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time. 
They  appear  to  be  on  terms  of  peace  with  the  New 
Mexicans  so  far  as  it  suits  their  interest  and  conve- 
nience— no  farther ;  at  one  time  trading  and  exchan- 
ging their  skins  in  amity,  and  almost  in  the  same  breath 
making  a  descent  upon  the  unprotected  frontiers,  plun- 
dering and  frequently  murdering  the  inhabitants.  When 
we  passed  through  their  country  a  party  of  Mexican 
traders  were  among  them  bartering  meal,  blankets,  and 
trinkets  for  buffalo  and  deer  skins.  Some  of  these  Mex- 
icans we  afterward  saw,  and  from  them  learned  that 
ten  of  their  warriors,  besides  a  principal  chief,  were  kill- 
ed by  Lieutenant  Hull  and  his  brave  companions  before 


£14  PREPARATIONS    FOR    A    HAZARDOUS    MARCH. 

they  were  overpowered.  The  traders  also  gave  us  an 
account  of  their  ceremonies  on  returning  to  camp  with 
their  scalps  and  trophies.  A  wild  dance  was  executed 
by  the  braves  in  celebration  of  their  victory,  while  the 
women  tore  their  hair  and  faces,  and  ran  naked  through 
the  prickly  pear  and  thorn  bushes,  in  token  of  their  grief 
for  the  loss  of  their  husbands  and  brothers.  Whether 
they  considered  our  visit  as  hostile  or  not  it  is  impossi- 
ble to  say  ;  they  had  shed  blood,  and  we  well  knew  they 
would  not  cease  murdering  any  of  our  companions  they 
might  dare  attack.  They  have  but  a  small  number  of 
rifles  among  them,  and  these  are  ineffective  and  useless 
in  their  hands :  the  larger  portion  of  them  are  armed 
with  shields,  lances,  and  bows  and  arrows,  weapons 
they  use  with  surprising  dexterity.  Such  are  the  most 
obvious  features  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  occupying  the  prai- 
ries near  the  head  waters  of  the  Wichita,  Colorado, 
Brazos,  and  Red  Rivers. 

The  morning  of  August  31st  was  occupied  in  partial- 
ly drying  our  meat  over  slow  fires,  and  in  making  prep- 
arations for  our  departure.  Horses  were  shod,  bullets 
moulded,  our  rifles  and  pistols  thoroughly  examined,  and 
nothing  neglected  in  the  way  of  that  precaution  our  un- 
certain adventure  demanded.  We  were  placed  in  a  posi- 
tion demanding  some  extraordinary  effort.  The  repeat- 
ed reverses  that  we  had  met  with,  the  hunger  and  fatigue 
which  we  had  undergone,  and  the  impossibility  of  trav- 
elling farther  with  the  wagons  in  any  direction  that 
would  bring  us  nearer  the  settlements,  formed  a  combi- 
nation of  evils  for  which  a  retreat  or  the  plan  determin- 
ed upon  was  the  only  remedy.  The  indefatigable  go- 
a-headity  which  characterizes  the  Anglo-Saxon  race, 
no  matter  where  or  under  what  circumstances  placed, 
prevented  the  adoption  of  the  former  plan — the  same 


THE    PARTING.  215 

spirit  induced  the  officers  of  the  expedition  to  adopt  and 
carry  out  the  latter.  Almost  every  one  appeared  to  re- 
joice when  this  course  was  determined  upon.  The  har- 
assing uncertainties  which  now  encompassed  all  would 
speedily  be  removed,  and  we  should  soon  know  where 
we  were. 

As  the  advance  party  were  about  starting,  we  were 
all  rejoiced  by  the  appearance  of  Lieutenant  Hann  and 
his  men.  He  had  met  with  several  small  parties  of  the 
Indians,  and  endeavoured  to  induce  them  to  come  in 
and  hold  a  friendly  talk ;  but  they  were  sulky  and  dis- 
posed to  fight,  although  not  strong  enough  to  engage 
him.  Up  to  this  time  he  knew  nothing  of  the  murder 
of  Lieutenant  Hull's  party.  The  other  men  who  were 
missing,  as  I  have  since  been  informed,  never  came  in, 
but  were  undoubtedly  killed  by  the  Indians. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Departure  of  the  Advance  in  search  of  the  Settlements. — Summit  of  the 
Steppe  gained. — Level  Prairie  before  us. — A  lovely  Scene. — Speculations 
in  relation  to  Red  River. — A  Bear  Chase.  —  Bruin  noosed. —  The  March 
continued. — Sagacity  of  a  Mule. — Arrival  at  a  singular  Chasm. — Impossi- 
bility of  crossing. — A  heavy  Prairie  Shower. — Appearance  of  our  Men. — 
Description  of  the  Chasm. — A  Crossing  found. — Loneliness  of  the  Prai- 
ries.— Scarcity  of  Game.  —  Begin  to  suffer  Hunger. — Arrival  at  another 
awful  Abyss. — Farther  Difficulty  in  crossing. — Hunger  increasing. — Sin- 
gular Birds. — Mustangs  and  Antelopes. — Their  exceeding  Shyness. — Cur- 
lews.—A  Buffalo  descried. — Preparations  for  a  Chase  to  the  Death. — Tom 
Hancock  and  his  Skill. — Endurance  of  Jim  the  Butcher. — Description  of 
the  Chase. — Poor  Prospects  of  a  Supper. 

THS  sun  had  but  a  short  hour  to  run,  in  order  to 
finish  his  day's  work  on  the  31st  of  August,  when,  in 
double  file  and  close  order,  our  provisions  for  the  march 


216  VIEW   FROM    A    MOUNTAIN-TOP. 

hanging  at  our  saddle-skirts,  we  left  our  companions  on 
the  Quintufue  and  struck  across  the  prairie  on  our  jour- 
ney in  search  of  the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  Mr. 
Hunt,  the  engineer  of  the  expedition,  taking  the  gui- 
dance. A  brisk  trot  of  two  hours  brought  us,  as  night 
was  throwing  its  sable  drapery  over  the  scene,  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  and  here,  after  choosing  a  strong 
position,  we  encamped.  No  water  could  be  found  in 
our  vicinity,  but  as  we  had  filled  our  gourds  and  can- 
teens before  we  left  the  main  body,  we  suffered  but 
little.  Early  the  next  morning,  after  travelling  a  mile 
or  two  along  the  foot  of  the  high  range,  we  discovered 
what  seemed  to  be  an  Indian  trail,  the  marks  where  the 
tent-poles  had  been  dragged  over  the  ground  being 
plainly  visible,  leading  in  a  zigzag  course  up  the  sides 
of  the  mountains.  This  we  followed,  and  towards  noon 
found  ourselves  at  the  summit  of  the  chain.  Here  we 
were  again  gratified  by  finding  spread  out  before  us  a 
perfectly  level  prairie,  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  and  without  a  tree  to  break  its  complete  monot- 
ony. We  halted  a  few  minutes  to  rest  our  horses,  and 
occupied  the  time  in  surveying  the  calm  and  beautiful 
valley  lying  hundreds  of  feet  below  us. 

It  was  a  lovely  scene,  beheld  from  the  point  where 
we  stood,  and  I  could  hardly  believe  that  but  a  few 
hours  previous  a  horrible  tragedy  had  been  enacted 
upon  its  fair  surface.  Softened  down  by  the  distance, 
there  was  a  tranquillity  about  it  which  seemed  as  though 
it  never  had  been  broken.  The  deep  green  skirtings 
of  the  different  watercourses  relieved  the  eye  as  it  fell 
upon  the  wide-extending  plain.  The  silver  waters  of 
the  Quintufue,  now  reduced  apparently  to  a  mere 
thread,  were  occasionally  brought  to  view  as  some 
turn  of  the  stream  threw  them  in  line  with  us,  and 


WHERE    IS   RED   RIVER?  217 

again  they  were  lost  to  the  sight  under  the  rich  foliage 
of  the  banks.  The  white  tops  of  our  wagons  showed 
the  present  encampment  of  our  main  body,  while  the 
small  black  spots  around  gave  us  the  pleasing  assurance 
that  the  cattle  and  horses  were  still  there,  and  that  the 
camp  had  been  unmolested.  In  other  parts  of  the  val- 
ley, too,  small  moving  specks  were  seen — mustangs,  or 
perhaps  our  Indian  enemies  prowling  about — but  other 
than  these  no  living  objects  met  our  gaze.  Almost  the 
whole  valley  was  bordered  by  the  yawning  chasms  that 
had  impeded  the  progress  of  our  wagons,  now  brought 
more  plainly  to  view  by  the  elevation  upon  which  we 
stood,  and  the  whole  scene  forcibly  reminded  me  of  one 
of  Salvator  Rosa's  beautiful  landscapes,  framed  with 
rough,  gnarled,  and  unfinished  oak. 

The  elevated  chain  of  hills  or  mountains  we  had  as- 
cended, if  they  really  deserve  that  title,  was  but  another 
steppe  towards  the  high  table-land  which  forms  the  base 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Where,  now,  was  Red  River  ? 
If  the  large  stream  our  guides  and  scouting  parties  had 
seen,  while  in  the  valley  below  us,  and  in  a  northeast 
direction  from  the  spot  where  Lieutenant  Hull  was 
killed — if  that  stream  was  Red  River,  then  its  source 
must  have  been  near  the  base  of  the  high  steppe  upon 
which  we  now  stood,  and  the  wide  and  almost  dry  beds 
we  had  crossed  within  the  few  past  days  were  but  its 
tributaries.  In  springtime,  when  the  prairie  snows 
melt  away  and  the  early  rains  fall,  these  beds  are  doubt- 
less full,  and  when  joined  in  one  common  channel  form 
the  great  stream  which,  after  passing  through  the  Cross 
Timbers,  fertilizes  the  valley  known  as  the  Red  River 
country.  The  Rocky  Mountains  may  justly  be  con- 
sidered the  parents  of  most  of  the  larger  streams  of 
North  America ;  but  I  cannot  think  that  they  give  birth 

VOL.  L— T 


218  THE  AUTHOR'S  CONJECTURES. 

to  the  river  we  had  been  so  long  seeking.  On  the  con- 
trary, I  am  bold  in  hazarding  the  opinion  that  the  Rio 
Colorado  or  Red  River  of  the  United  States,  the  Brazos 
de  Dios,  and  the  Rio  Colorado  or  Red  River  of  Texas, 
all  take  their  rise  in  the  centre  of  the  prairies,  at  no 
great  distance  apart,  and  that  the  steppe  we  had  now 
reached  is  their  extreme  western  limit.  Their  waters 
are  similar,  being  of  a  dirty,  brownish  red  colour,  and 
of  a  slightly  salt  and  bitter  taste,  which  goes  far  to  prove 
their  common  origin. 

From  the  hillsides,  as  was  the  case  with  the  Palo 
Duro  and  Quintufue,*  small  streams  of  fresh  and  limpid 
water  arise ;  but  both  their  purity  of  taste  and  virgin 
transparency  of  colour  are  lost  the  moment  they  strike 
the  reddish  clay  of  the  lower  prairies,  and  they  become 
adulterated  by  the  copperas  and  sulphate  of  soda  with 
which  these  plains  appear  to  be  impregnated.  The  Red 
River  of  the  United  States  has  been  traced  and  is  well 
known  to  a  point  west  of  Coffee's  Upper  Station,  a  no- 
ted Indian  trading  post  above  the  mouth  of  the  False 
Washita ;  beyond  that,  certainty  loses  itself  in  specula- 
tion, and  the  true  stream,  its  courses  and  its  sources,  will 
never  be  known  until  it  is  explored  to  its  fountain  head 
— and  this  point  will  be  found,  I  have  little  hesitation  in 
saying,  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  or  three  hundred 
miles  east- southeast  of  Santa  Fe,  and  but  a  few  miles 
from  the  steppe  to  which  I  have  now  brought  my  read- 
er. In  these  conjectures  I  am  borne  out  by  the  testi- 
mony of  Albert  Pike,  now  a  well-known  lawyer  of  Ar- 
kansas, and  a  poet  and  writer  of  great  distinction.f 

*  These  names  we  learned  from  the  New  Mexican  traders,  whom  we  af- 
terward met. 

t  His  "  Hymns  to  the  Gods,"  published  several  years  since  in  Blackwood, 
are  gems  of  rarest  strength  and  beauty,  and  as  such  were  highly  lauded  by 
Professor  Wilson  himself. 


MR.  PIKE'S  OPINION.  219 

This  gentleman,  in  1832,  made  a  hazardous  journey 
from  Santa  Fe  to  the  western  settlements  of  Arkansas. 
His  general  course,  for  the  first  three  hundred  miles, 
was  nearly  southeast,  the  last  two  hundred  taking  him 
directly  across  the  immense  plain  called  Llano  Estacado 
— Stake  Prairie — by  the  New  Mexicans.  Mr.  Pike  had 
now  reached  the  head  waters  of  the  Brazos,  and  in 
about  the  same  longitude  we  had  reached  when  Lieu- 
tenant Hull  and  his  men  were  killed.  He  then  con- 
tinued down  one  of  the  forks  of  the  Brazos  some  hun- 
dred and  eighty  miles,  the  stream  running  nearly  south- 
east, and  a  part  of  the  country  being  broken  into  rough 
and  misshapen  hills,  resembling  those  we  encountered 
on  the  stream  which  I  have  put  down  as  the  ^Vichita. 
The  course  of  Mr.  Pike  was  next  northeast,  some  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles,  until  he  struck  the  Red  River  of 
the  United  States.  The  point  at  which  he  reached  this 
stream  was  probably  a  little  to  the  east  of  the  Waco 
village  I  have  described,  and  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Wichita.  From  the  appearance  of  Red  River — the  sim- 
ilarity of  its  waters,  both  in  colour  and  taste,  to  those  of 
the  Brazos — Mr.  Pike  entertains  little  doubt  that  they 
both  take  their  rise  in  the  same  section  of  country,  and 
nearly  in  the  same  longitude — the  former  rising  but  a 
short  distance  to  the  north  of  the  latter.  But  I  am  run- 
ning before  my  narrative,  and  after  promising  other 
speculations  in  relation  to  Red  River  in  a  more  befitting 
place,  will  reconduct  the  reader  to  the  summit  of  the 
high  steppe  upon  which  we  now  found  ourselves. 

After  giving  our  animals  half  an  hour's  rest,  for  they 
were  much  jaded  by  the  precipitous  ascent  up  which 
they  had  clambered,  we  resumed  our  journey  in  a  north- 
west direction.  We  had  ridden  but  a  short  distance 
before  a  large  black  bear  was  seen  some  mile  or  there- 


220  A    WATER-FINDER. 

about  to  the  left  of  us.  Major  Howard  immediately  set 
off  with  the  intention  of  running  him  down,  and  after  a 
short  race  succeeded  in  placing  himself  on  the  opposite 
side,  so  as  to  bring  the  animal  directly  between  him  and 
our  line  of  march.  The  chase  was  now  assuming  an 
exciting  character,  the  bear,  from  the  lateness  of  the 
season,  being  poor  in  flesh,  and  able  to  run  nearly  as 
fast  as  our  fleetest  horses.  Onward  they  came,  direct- 
ly towards  us,  and  when  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  I 
cocked  a  pistol  and  left  the  ranks  with  the  intention  of 
having  a  first  shot  at  the  animal.  When  within  some 
twenty-five  yards,  I  reined  up  rny  horse,  and  while  ta- 
king deliberate  aim,  at  not  half  that  distance,  I  was  sur- 
prised to  see  the  bear  turn  a  species  of  somerset,  and 
commence  kicking  with  his  hind  legs.  Unseen  by  me, 
one  of  our  Mexican  servants  had  crept  up  close  on  the 
opposite  side  of  my  horse,  and  had  noosed  the  animal 
with  a  lariat  just  as  I  was  pulling  the  trigger  of  my  pis- 
tol. Bruin  soon  loosed  himself  from  his  fastenings,  and 
while  running  down  the  line  was  shot  by  Major  How- 
ard. 

The  journey  was  again  resumed,  and  continued  at  a 
rapid  pace  until  near  the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  A 
short  halt  was  then  called  to  rest  our  horses,  at  a  place 
where  no  water  was  seen,  but  where  the  grass  was  ex- 
cellent. The  bridles  were  no  sooner  slipped  from  the 
heads  of  our  animals  than  an  elderly  and  sagacious 
mule,  instead  of  beginning  to  nip  the  short  grass,  put  off 
at  a  deliberate  trot  in  a  southwest  direction.  "That 
cunning  old  rascal  scents  water  sure"  said  his  owner, 
and  sure  enough  he  did ;  for  he  had  not  proceeded 
three  hundred  yards  before  we  saw  him  stoop  his  head 
and  commence  drinking  at  a  pond-hole  which  was  con- 
cealed from  our  sight.  The  discovery  of  this  water 


A    CANON.  221 

was  very  opportune;  for  we  had  drunk,  but  little  in 
nearly  twenty-four  hours,  and  our  animals  had  not  swal- 
lowed a  drop. 

As  soon  as  we  had  given  our  horses  and  mules  a 
short  rest,  and  made  a  light  meal  of  our  half-cured  meat, 
we  resaddled  and  resumed  our  journey.  We  were  go- 
ing forward  at  a  rapid  pace,  the  prairies  before  us  pre- 
senting no  other  appearance  than  a  slightly  undulating 
but  smooth  surface,  when  suddenly,  and  without  pre- 
vious sign  or  warning,  we  found  ourselves  upon  the 
very  brink  of  a  vast  and  yawning  chasm,  or  canon,  as 
the  Mexicans  would  call  it,  some  two  or  three  hundred 
yards  across,  and  probably  eight  hundred  feet  in  depth  ! 
As  the  front  ranks  suddenly  checked  their  onward 
course,  and  diverged  at  right  angles,  the  rear  sections 
were  utterly  at  a  loss  to  account  for  a  movement  so  ir- 
regular ;  they  could  not  see  even  the  edge  of  the  fear- 
ful abyss  at  a  distance  of  fifteen  yards  from  its  very 
brink.  The  banks  at  this  place  were  almost  perpen- 
dicular, and  from  the  sides  projected  jagged  and  broken 
rocks,  with  here  and  there  a  stunted,  scrubby  cedar. 
There  was  some  appearance  of  a  zigzag  and  precipitous 
trail  down  the  sides  of  the  canon  at  the  point  where  we 
first  reached  it,  and  Mr.  Hunt  and  Dr.  Brenham  took  it 
with  the  intention  of  reaching  the  bottom  if  possible  : 
they  continued  their  winding  path  until  they  seemed 
mere  pigmies,  and  only  stopped  when  their  progress 
was  arrested  by  high  and  perpendicular  bluffs.  On 
their  return,  after  an  absence  of  some  half  an  hour,  they 
said  they  had  not  advanced  half  way  to  the  bottom,  and 
that  to  attempt  crossing  at  this,  or  any  other  point  with- 
in sight,  would  be  useless.  We  travelled  a  mile  or  two 
along  the  banks,  but  finding  it  impossible  to  discover  a 
crossing-place,  we  finally  encamped  in  a  little  hollow  of 

T  2 


222  FAIRLY    AFLOAT. 

the  prairie  near  the  edge  of  the  ravine.  Here,  finding 
that  a  large  portion  of  our  badly-cured  meat  was  spoil- 
ing, we  cooked  what  could  still  be  eaten,  and  threw 
much  of  it  away  for  the  wolves  and  buzzards. 

Young  Frank  Combs  and  myself  sought  a  comfort- 
able lodging  in  a  little  sandy  gulley,  which  had  been 
formed  by  the  washing  of  previous  rains.  A  fine  bed 
it  was,  too,  for  about  an  hour ;  but  just  as  we  commen- 
ced dozing  we  were  startled  by  a  tremendous  thunder 
storm.  In  three  minutes  we  were  wet  through,  and  in 
five  found  that  we  were  fairly  floating,  our  rifles  and 
saddles,  the  latter  of  which  we  used  for  pillows,  being 
completely  under  water.  We  snatched  our  rifles  from 
the  swift-running  stream,  took  up  our  bed,  and  walked 
to  higher  ground  amid  the  terrible  storm.  We  found 
means,  however,  to  set  fire  to  a  large  dry  cedar,  once 
more  rolled  up  in  our  blankets,  and  after  thinking  of 
home  and  its  thousand  comforts,  fell  asleep.  Yet  never 
shall  I  forget  the  early  part  of  that  awful  night.  The 
lightning  appeared  to  be  playing  about  in  the  chasm  far 
below  us,  bringing  out,  in  wild  relief,  its  bold  and  crag- 
gy sides.  Deafening  peals  of  thunder  seemed  rising 
from  the  very  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  then  muttered 
away  in  the  distance,  rejoicing,  as  it  were,  at  their  es- 
cape from  confinement.  The  yawning  abyss  appeared 
to  be  a  workshop  for  the  manufacture  of  the  storm,  and 
there  we  were  at  the  very  doors  when  the  Ruler  of  the 
elements  sent  forth  a  specimen  of  his  grandest,  his  sub- 
limest  work. 

When  morning  came,  which  was  bright  and  cloud- 
less, we  crawled  out  from  under  our  wet  blankets,  and 
I  doubt  whether  a  more  miserable,  wo-begone  set  of 
unfortunates,  in  appearance,  have  been  since  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Red  Sea.  Not  a  man  among  us  who  was 


A    BEGGARLY   CREW.  223 

not  as  wet  as  though  he  had  been  towed  astern  of  a 
steamer  from  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  to  the  Balize, 
and  without  the  privilege  of  going  ashore  at  any  of  the 
"  intermediate  landings."  Of  my  own  personal  appear- 
ance I  can  say  nothing,  as  among  our  scanty  stock  of 
furniture  there  was  no  such  luxury  as  a  looking-glass ; 
but  the  unshaven  faces  of  my  companions  resembled,  to 
use  a  threadbare  comparison,  the  title-pages  of  so  many 
distress  memorials,  and  I  cannot  flatter  myself  into  the 
belief  that'I  differed  from  them  in  any  material  respect. 
Each  individual  hair  upon  our  heads  was  sticking  out 
almost  anywhere,  and  to  suit  its  own  convenience  ;  our 
broad-brimmed  hats  were  cocked  up,  lopped  down,  and 
knocked  into,  or  rather  out  of,  all  manner  of  shape  and 
comeliness ;  our  caps  were  mashed ;  our  scanty  and 
ragged  vestments,  full  of  sand  and  water,  stuck  close  to 
our  persons  or  hung  heavily  and  drooping  downward 
like  weeping  willows ;  and  to  sum  all  up,  I  verily  be- 
lieve that  we  could  not  have  "  passed  muster"  even  in 
the  ragged  and  renowned  regiment  promiscuously  press- 
ed into  service  by  one  Sir  John  Falstaff  years  before  the 
Santa  Fe  expedition  was  thought  of.  Wretched  and 
forlorn  as  we  seemed,  however,  chilly  and  miserable  as 
we  felt  after  our  soaking,  good-humoured  jokes  were 
cracked  at  each  other's  expense,  and  every  one  was 
offering  consolation  and  pity  to  his  neighbour  with  an 
assumed  sincerity  and  gravity  that  would  have  drawn 
a  horse-laugh  from  Werter  in  his  most  sorrowful  mo- 
ments. 

Unwilling  to  load  our  horses  with  wet  and  heavy 
blankets,  we  employed  some  two  hours  in  spreading 
and  drying  them  as  much  as  possible.  In  the  mean 
time,  a  scanty  breakfast  of  half-cooked,  half-dried  beef 
was  swallowed,  our  rifles  were  discharged,  cleaned,  and 


224  A    CROSSING-PLACE. 

reloaded,  and  our  powder  examined  to  see  that  all  was 
right.  To  keep  his  powder  dry  is  the  first  thing  the 
prairie  traveller  thinks  of  when  a  rain  comes  on,  and 
fortunately  we  found  that  ours  was  all  in  good  order, 
although  it  seemed  almost  a  miracle  that  much  of  it  was 
not  spoiled. 

The  immense  chasm  we  were  upon  ran  nearly  north 
and  south,  and  by  watching  the  current  of  the  stream 
far  below  us — a  furious  torrent  raised  by  the  heavy 
rain — it  was  seen  that  it  ran  towards  the  former  point. 
This  induced  Mr.  Hunt  to  seek  a  crossing  to  the  south- 
ward, and  after  saddling  our  horses  we  set  off  in  that 
direction.  We  had  gone  but  a  few  miles  when  large 
buffalo  or  Indian  trails  were  seen,  running  in  a  south- 
west course,  and  as  we  travelled  on,  others  were  no- 
ticed bearing  more  to  the  west.  We  were  obliged  to 
keep  out  some  distance  from  the  ravine,  to  avoid  the 
small  gullies  emptying  into  it,  and  to  cut  off  the  numer- 
ous turns,  and  in  this  way  we  travelled  until  about  noon, 
when  we  struck  a  large  trail  running  directly  west. 
This  we  followed,  and  on  reaching  the  main  chasm 
found  that  it  led  to  the  only  place  where  there  was  any 
chance  of  crossing.  Here,  too,  we  found  that  innumer- 
able trails  centred,  coming  from  every  direction ;  proof 
conclusive  that  we  must  cross  here  or  travel  many 
weary  miles  out  of  our  way. 

Dismounting  from  our  animals,  we  looked  at  the  yawn- 
ing abyss  before  us,  and  the  impression  upon  all  was  that 
the  passage  was  impossible.  That  buffalo,  mustangs,  and 
very  probably  Indians  with  their  horses  had  crossed  here, 
was  evident  enough,  for  a  zigzag  path  had  been  worn 
down  the  rocky  and  precipitous  sides ;  but  many  of  our 
horses  were  unused  to  sliding  down  precipices  as  well 
as  climbing  them,  and  drew  back  repulsively  on  being 


A    FEARFUL    PATH.  225 

led  to  the  brink  of  the  chasm.  After  many  unsuccess- 
ful attempts,  a  mule  was  started  down  the  path,  then 
another  was  induced  to  follow,  while  some  of  the  horses 
were  fairly  forced,  by  dint  of  much  shouting  and  push- 
ing, to  attempt  the  descent.  In  some  places  they  went 
along  the  very  verge  of  rocky  and  crumbling  ledges, 
where  a  false  step  would  have  precipitated  them  hun- 
dreds of  feet  to  instant  death;  in  others  they  were 
compelled  to  slide  down  pitches  nearly  perpendicular. 
Many  of  them  were  much  bruised,  but  after  an  hour's 
hard  work  we  all  gained  the  bottom  without  sustaining 
any  serious  injury.  Finding  a  small  patch  of  grass  in 
the  low  and  secluded  dell  at  the  bottom  of  the  abyss, 
we  halted  for  an  hour  or  two  to  rest  our  weary  animals 
and  to  seek  the  trail  leading  up  the  steep  on  the  oppo- 
site side.  This  we  finally  discovered,  and  after  the 
greatest  exertions  succeeded  in  clambering  to  the  top, 
where  we  once  more  found  ourselves  upon  a  smooth 
and  level  prairie.  I  shuddered,  on  looking  back,  to  see 
the  frightful  chasm  we  had  so  successfully  passed,  and 
at  the  time  thought  it  almost  a  miracle  that  we  had  got 
safely  across  ;  but  a  few  days  afterward  I  was  con- 
vinced that  in  comparison  the  undertaking  we  had  just 
accomplished  was  as  nothing. 

After  giving  our  animals  another  rest  we  resumed 
our  journey  across  the  lone  and  dreary  prairie.  Not  a 
tree  or  bush,  and  hardly  a  weed  could  be  seen  in  any 
direction.  A  green  carpeting  of  short  grass,  which 
even  at  this  season  was  studded  with  innumerable 
strange  flowers  and  plants,  was  spread  over  the  vast 
expanse,  with  naught  else  to  relieve  the  eye.  People 
may  talk  of  the  solitude  of  our  immense  American  for- 
ests, but  there  is  a  company  even  in  trees  that  one 
misses  upon  the  prairie.  There  is  food  for  thought, 


226  LONELINESS    OF   THE    PRAIRIE. 

too,  in  the  ocean  wave,  not  to  be  found  in  the  un- 
changeable face  of  these  great  Western  wastes,  and  no- 
where else  does  one  feel  that  sickly  sensation  of  loneli- 
ness with  which  he  is  impressed  when  nothing  but  a 
boundless  prairie  is  around  him.  There  he  feels  as  if 
in  the  world,  but  not  of  it — there  he  finds  no  sign  or 
trace  to  tell  him  that  there  is  something  beyond,  that 
millions  of  human  beings  are  living  and  moving  upon 
the  very  earth  on  which  he  stands.  Shakspeare  was 
in  the  woods  when  he  found 

" tongues  in  trees,  books  in  the  running  brooks, 

Sermons  in  stones,  and  good  in  everything." 

Had  he  been  on  the  immense  prairie  I  am  now  speak- 
ing about  he  would  have  found  no  such  companion- 
ship. 

We  rode  briskly  forward  until  near  sundown,  and 
then  encamped  by  the  side  of  a  small  water-hole — the 
basin  formed  by  a  hollow  in  the  prairie.  Although  we 
were  only  two  days  out,  the  rations  of  many  of  the 
men  were  nearly  gone  by  this  time,  so  much  of  the 
meat  had  been  spoiled  from  having  been  improperly 
cured.  Not  a  buffalo  could  be  seen  on  the  prairie,  nor 
was  any  fresh  "  sign"  visible.  The  mustangs,  too,  had 
left  this  part  of  the  plain,  as  also  the  deer  and  antelope, 
driven  off,  doubtless,  by  the  scarcity  of  water.  Had  it 
not  been  for  the  showers  which  fell  while  travelling 
this  dreary  waste,  we  should  all  most  certainly  have 
perished ;  for  even  the  immense  canons  had  no  other 
water  in  them  than  that  which  had  fallen  after  we  left 
the  Quintufue. 

Scarcely  had  we  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets 
before  we  were  again  visited  by  a  heavy  shower ;  but 
this  time  we  had  chosen  higher  ground,  and  though 


ANOTHER    CANON,  227 

thoroughly  drenched,  we  were  not  washed  from  our 
fastenings,  as  on  the  night  before. 

The  morning  of  September  3d  broke  bright  and 
cloudless,  the  sun  rising  from  out  the  prairie  in  all  his 
majesty.  Singular  as  it  may  appear,  nearly  every 
shower,  from  the  time  we  left  Austin  until  we  reached 
the  settlements  of  New  Mexico,  fell  during  the  night, 
generally  commencing  shortly  after  sundown.  Again 
we  were  compelled  to  lose  some  two  hours  in  spread- 
ing and  drying  our  clothes  and  blankets,  after  which 
we  saddled  our  animals  and  pursued  our  weary  jour- 
ney. Our  course,  as  I  have  already  observed,  was 
northwest,  and  we  were  now  enabled  to  keep  it  with- 
out difficulty. 

We  had  scarcely  proceeded  six  miles,  after  drying 
our  blankets,  when  we  suddenly  came  upon  another 
immense  rent  or  chasm  in  the  earth,  exceeding  in  depth 
the  one  we  had  so  much  difficulty  in  crossing  the  day 
before.  No  one  was  aware  of  its  existence  until  we 
were  immediately  upon  its  brink,  when  a  spectacle,  ex- 
ceeding in  grandeur  anything  we  had  previously  be- 
held, came  suddenly  in  view.  Not  a  tree  or  bush,  no 
outline  whatever,  marked  its  position  or  course,  and  we 
were  all  lost  in  amazement  as  one  by  one  we  left  the 
double-file  ranks  and  rode  up  to  the  verge  of  the  yawn- 
ing abyss, 

In  depth  it  could  not  be  less  than  eight  hundred  or  a 
thousand  feet,  was  from  three  to  five  hundred  yards  in 
width,  and  at  the  point  where  we  first  struck  it  the 
sides  were  nearly  perpendicular.  A  sickly  sensation 
of  dizziness  was  felt  by  all  as  we  looked  down,  as  it 
were,  into  the  very  depths  of  the  earth.  In  the  dark 
and  narrow  valley  below,  an  occasional  spot  of  green 
relieved  the  eye,  and  a  small  stream  of  water,  now  ri- 


228  ANOTHER   PERILOUS   DESCENT. 

sing  to  the  view,  then  sinking  beneath  some  huge  rock, 
was  bubbling  and  foaming  along.  Immense  walls,  col- 
umns, and  in  some  places  what  appeared  to  be  arches, 
were  seen  standing,  modelled  by  the  wear  of  the  water, 
undoubtedly,  yet  so  perfect  in  form  that  we  could  with 
difficulty  be  brought  to  believe  that  the  hand  of  man 
had  not  fashioned  them.  The  rains  of  centuries,  fall- 
ing upon  an  immense  prairie,  had  here  found  a  reser- 
voir, and  their  workings  upon  the  different  veins  of 
earth  and  stone  had  formed  these  strange  and  fanciful 
shapes. 

Before  reaching  the  chasm  we  had  crossed  numerous 
large  trails,  leading  a  little  more  to  the  west  than  we 
were  travelling ;  and  the  experience  of  the  previous 
day  led  us  to  suppose  that  they  all  terminated  at  a  com- 
mon crossing  near  by.  In  this  conjecture  we  were  not 
disappointed,  for  a  trot  of  half  an  hour  brought  us  into 
a  large  road,  the  thoroughfare  along  which  millions  of 
Indians,  buffalo,  and  mustangs  had  evidently  travelled 
for  years.  Perilous  as  the  descent  appeared,  we  well 
knew  there  was  no  other  near.  The  leading  mule  was 
again  urged  forward,  the  steadier  and  older  horses 
were  next  driven  over  the  sides,  and  the  more  skittish 
and  untractable  brought  up  the  rear.  Once  in  the  nar- 
row path,  which  led  circuitously  down  the  descent, 
there  was  no  turning  back,  and  our  half-maddened  ani- 
mals finally  reached  the  bottom  in  safety.  Several 
large  stones  were  loosened  from  their  fastenings  by  our 
men,  during  the  frightful  descent ;  these  would  leap, 
dash,  and  thunder  down  the  precipitous  sides,  and  strike 
against  the  bottom  far  below  us  with  a  terrific  and  re- 
verberating crash. 

We  found  a  running  stream  on  reaching  the  lower 
level  of  the  chasm,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  was  a 


ARCHITECTURE   OP    NATURE.  229 

romantic  dell  covered  with  short  grass,  and  a  few  scat- 
tering cotton-woods.  A  large  body  of  Indians  had  en- 
camped on  this  very  spot  but  a  few  days  previous,  the 
wilted  limbs  of  the  trees  and  other  "  sign"  showing  that 
they  had  made  it  a  resting-place.  We,  too,  halted  a 
couple  of  hours,  to  give  our  horses  an  opportunity  to 
graze  and  rest  themselves.  The  trail  which  led  up  on 
the  opposite  side  was  discovered  a  short  distance  above 
us,  to  the  south,  winding  up  the  steep  and  ragged  sides 
of  the  acclivity. 

As  we  journeyed  along  this  dell  all  were  again  struck 
with  admiration  at  the  strange  and  fanciful  figures  made 
by  the  washing  of  the  waters  during  the  rainy  season. 
In  some  places  perfect  walls,  formed  of  reddish  clay, 
were  seen  standing,  and  were  they  anywhere  else  it 
would  be  impossible  to  believe  that  other  than  the  hand 
of  man  had  formed  them.  The  veins  of  which  these 
walls  were  composed  were  of  even  thickness,  very  hard, 
and  ran  perpendicularly ;  and  when  the  softer  sand 
which  had  surrounded  them  was  washed  away,  the 
veins  still  remained  standing  upright,  in  some  places  a 
hundred  feet  high,  and  three  or  four  hundred  in  length. 
Columns,  too,  were  there,  and  such  was  their  appear- 
ance of  architectural  order,  and  so  much  of  chaste 
grandeur  was  there  about  them,  that  we  were  lost  in 
wonder  and  admiration.  Sometimes  the  breastworks, 
as  of  forts,  would  be  plainly  visible ;  then,  again,  the 
frowning  turrets  of  some  castle  of  the  olden  time.  Cum- 
brous pillars  of  some  mighty  pile,  such  as  is  dedicated 
to  religion  or  royalty,  were  scattered  about;  regu- 
larity was  strangely  mingled  with  disorder  and  ruin, 
and  nature  had  done  it  all.  Niagara  has  been  consid- 
ered one  of  her  wildest  freaks,  but  Niagara  sinks  into 
insignificance  when  compared  with  the  wild  grandeur 

Vot,  I.— U 


AN    IMMENSE    PRAIRIE. 

of  this  awful  chasm — this  deep,  abyssmal  solitude,  as 
Carlyle  would  call  it.  Imagination  carried  us  back  to 
Thebes,  to  Palmyra,  and  to  ancient  Athens,  and  we 
could  not  help  thinking  that  we  were  now  among  their 
ruins. 

Our  passage  out  of  this  place  was  effected  with  the 
greatest  difficulty.  We  were  obliged  to  carry  our  ri- 
fles, holsters,  and  saddlebags  in  our  hands,  and  in  clam- 
bering up  a  steep  pitch,  one  of  the  horses,  striking  his 
shoulder  against  a  projecting  rock,  was  precipitated 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  directly  upon  his  back.  All 
thought  he  must  be  killed  by  the  fall ;  but  strangely 
enough,  he  rose  immediately,  shook  himself,  and  a  sec- 
ond effort  in  climbing  proved  more  successful — the  ani- 
mal had  not  received  the  slightest  apparent  injury ! 

By  the  middle  of  the  afternoon  we  were  all  safely 
across,  after  passing  five  or  six  hours  completely  shut 
out  from  the  world.  Again  we  found  ourselves  upon 
the  level  prairie,  and  on  looking  back,  after  proceeding 
some  hundred  yards,  not  a  sign  of  the  immense  chasm 
was  visible.  The  plain  we  were  then  upon  was  at  least 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  width,  and  the  two 
chasms  I  have  mentioned  were  the  reservoirs  of  the 
heavy  body  of  rain  which  falls  during  the  wet  season, 
and  at  the  same  time  its  conductors  to  the  running 
streams.  The  prairie  is  undoubtedly  the  largest  in  the 
world,  and  the  canons  are  in  perfect  keeping  with  the 
size  of  the  prairie.  Whether  the  waters  which  run  into 
them  sink  into  the  earth,  or  find  their  way  to  the  Cana- 
dian, is  a  matter  of  uncertainty — but  I  am  inclined  to 
believe  the  latter  to  be  the  fact. 

At  sundown  we  halted  by  the  side  of  a  water-hole, 
and  encamped  for  the  night.  Many  of  the  men  were 
now  entirely  out  of  provisions,  while  those  who  still  had 


FLOCKS    OF   BIRDS.  231 

a  little  beef  left  had  saved  it  by  stinting  themselves  on 
the  previous  days.  The  worst  of  our  sufferings  had 
commenced. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  ensuing  morning  our  march 
was  continued,  the  cravings  of  hunger  by  this  time  be- 
ing sensibly  felt  by  all.  Small  droves  of  deer  and  ante- 
lope were  seen  during  the  day,  brought  from  the  water- 
courses doubtless  by  the  recent  rains,  and  towards  night 
a  drove  of  mustangs  was  descried  upon  a  roll  of  the 
prairie  half  a  mile  ahead  of  us.  They  were  all  extreme- 
ly shy,  however,  and  although  many  rifles  were  dis- 
charged, not  a  shot  was  successful — we  could  not  get 
near  enough  to  kill  one  of  them.  Flocks  of  small  birds, 
about  the  size  of  and  in  many  respects  resembling  the 
blackbird,  travelled  with  us  much  of  this  day's  march, 
hovering  along  in  front  and  rear  of  the  line,  and  so  ex- 
ceedingly tame  that  they  would  light  on  our  hats  and 
arms,  and  on  the  necks  and  heads  of  our  horses,  with- 
out manifesting  the  least  sign  of  fear.  One  or  two  of 
these  singular  birds  were  caught  and  killed,  and  found 
to  be  fat  and  of  good  flavour.  That  night  we  encamp- 
ed near  a  water-hole,  covering  an  area  of  some  twenty 
acres,  but  very  shallow.  Flocks  of  large  curlews,  one 
of  the  finest  birds  that  fly,  were  hovering  and  lighting 
about  on  all  sides.  Had  I  been  in  possession  of  a 
double-barrelled  gun  with  small  shot  I  would  have  had 
at  least  one  good  meal ;  but  I  had  only  a  heavy  rifle, 
and  went  to  my  lodgings  on  the  ground  supperless. 

About  two  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  saddled  our 
horses  and  resumed  the  march,  journeying  still  in  a 
northwest  course  by  the  stars.  On  leaving  the  main 
camp  on  the  Quintufue  it  was  thought  by  all  that  we 
could  not  be  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  San  Mi- 
guel— we  had  now  more  than  made  that  distance,  and 


232       HUNGER  TOO  STRONG  FOR  ORDERS. 

were  still  upon  the  immense  prairie.  To  relieve  our- 
selves from  the  horrible  suspense  we  were  in,  to  get 
somewhere,  in  short,  was  our  eager  aim,  and  hurriedly 
we  pressed  onward,  in  the  hope  of  finding  relief.  Our 
horses,  in  the  mean  time,  had  comparatively  suffered 
less  than  ourselves,  for  the  grazing  on  the  prairie  had 
been  good ;  but  the  hurried  marches  and  the  difficult 
crossings  of  the  immense  chasms  now  began  to  tell 
upon  them. 

At  sunrise  we  halted  near  a  small  pond  of  water 
to  rest  the  animals  and  allow  them  an  hour  to  feed. 
Large  white  cranes  were  standing  about  in  the  pond, 
and  flocks  of  ducks  were  swimming  upon  the  sur- 
face. While  we  were  lounging  on  the  ground,  a  large 
antelope  was  seen  slowly  approaching  us — now  stop- 
ping, then  walking  a  few  steps  nearer — evidently  in- 
quisitive as  to  who,  or  rather  what  we  were.  His  cu- 
riosity finally  cost  him  his  life ;  for  although  Captain 
Sutton  the  evening  before  had  given  orders  that  not  an- 
other shot  should  be  fired  without  his  consent,  one  of 
our  men  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  bringing  the 
antelope  down.  The  man  was  arrested  and  sent  to  the 
rear  for  this  disobedience  of  orders,  but  I  have  little  doubt 
the  excellent  meal  he  made  more  than  compensated  for 
the  disgrace.  The  order  of  Captain  S.  that  no  rifle 
should  be  discharged,  was  an  excellent  one,  as  many 
shots  had  been  wasted  on  the  previous  day ;  but  the 
best  officer  in  existence  cannot  restrain  a  half-starved 
man  when  he  sees  a  hearty  meal  directly  within  his 
grasp.  A  number  of  antelopes  were  seen  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  water-hole,  but  no  farther  attempt  was 
made  to  shoot  them. 

Shortly  after  this  incident  of  killing  the  antelope  we 
again  resumed  our  journey.  The  same  dreary  specta- 


A    SLEEPING   BUFFALO.  233 

cle,  a  boundless  prairie,  was  before  us — not  a  sign  was 
observable  that  we  were  nearing  its  edge.  We  jour- 
neyed rapidly  on  until  near  the  middle  of  the  afternoon, 
when  a  dark  spot  was  noticed  some  mile  or  mile  and  a 
half  directly  in  advance.  At  first  it  was  thought  to  be 
a  low  bush,  but  as  we  gradually  approached  it  had 
more  the  appearance  of  a  rock,  although  nothing  of  the 
kind  had  been  seen  from  the  time  of  our  first  coming 
upon  the  prairie,  except  at  the  chasms. 

"  A  buffalo  !"  cried  one  of  the  men,  whose  keen  eye 
had  penetrated  the  mystery :  "  a  buffalo,  lying  down 
and  asleep !" 

A  spyglass  in  our  possession  proved  the  man's  asser- 
tion. Here,  then,  was  a  chance  for  at  least  as  much  as 
we  could  all  eat,  and  the  temptation  was  too  strong  to 
be  resisted.  The  Leather  Stocking  of  the  party,  Tom 
Hancock,  was  deputed  to  go  forward  on  foot  with  a 
rifle,  in  the  hope  that  he  might  at  least  get  near  enough 
to  wound  the  animal,  while  myself  and  three  of  my 
companions,  who  were  better  mounted  than  the  rest, 
made  every  preparation  for  a  chase  to  the  death. 

Disencumbering  our  animals  of  every  pound  of  su- 
perfluous weight,  we  tied  handkerchiefs  over  our  heads 
and  prepared  for  a  sport  rendered  doubly  exciting  by 
our  starving  condition.  Each  of  my  comrades  had  a 
pair  of  heavy  belt  pistols,  and  in  addition  one  of  Colt's 
revolving  pistols,  with  a  cylinder  containing  five  shots. 
In  my  holsters  I  had  a  heavy  Harper's  Ferry  dragoon- 
pistol,  throwing  a  large  ball  with  great  force  and  accu- 
racy, besides  a  bell-muzzled  affair  which  was  loaded 
with  two  or  three  balls  and  some  twenty-five  or  thirty 
buckshot.  With  this  I  intended  at  least  to  give  the 
buffalo  a  broadside  which  would  bleed  him  freely.  To 
complete  my  armament,  I  also  had  one  of  Colt's  pistols, 
U  2 


234  THE    HUNT   BEGUN. 

which  I  had  borrowed  from  one  of  the  officers  for  the 
occasion. 

Beyond  where  the  animal  was  quietly  lying,  in  a 
western  direction,  the  prairie  rose  very  gradually  for  a 
mile — farther  than  that  we  knew  nothing  of  the  nature 
of  the  ground.  Tom  Hancock  could  creep  closer  to 
the  smooth  prairie  and  make  less  show  than  any  man  in 
the  command — knew  all  the  advantages  of  taking  the 
wind,  and  was  conversant  with  every  species  of  strategy 
by  which  to  make  his  game  certain — but  he  still  thought 
it  more  prudent  to  give  the  animal  a  shot  when  within 
a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  than  to  run  the  risk  of  crawl- 
ing nearer.  He  had  desired  us  not  to  move  unless  the 
buffalo  started,  hoping  to  have  another  shot ;  we  there- 
fore sat  quietly  upon  our  horses  to  watch  the  effect  of 
his  first  discharge. 

The  buffalo,  evidently  struck  though  but  slightly 
wounded,  bounded  from  the  ground,  stretched  him- 
self as  does  the  tame  bull  on  first  rising,  whisked  his 
tufted  tail  right  and  left,  looked  slowly  and  inquiringly 
about  him,  and  then  lay  down  again  upon  the  ground. 
We  did  not  stir,  and  Hancock  quietly  reloaded  his  rifle 
without  rising  from  the  prairie.  Another  shot  now  fol- 
lowed, and  this  time  the  huge  animal  again  bounded  up 
and  lashed  his  tail ;  but  no  sooner  had  he  turned  his 
head  in  our  direction,  and  discovered  his  enemies,  than 
he  wheeled  and  started  off  towards  the  west  at  the  usual 
heavy,  lumbering  gallop.  He  had  evidently  been  hit 
by  the  second  shot  as  well  as  the  first,  and  this  time  the 
wound  was  probably  more  severe. 

At  an  easy  canter  our  little  party  now  dashed  off  in 
pursuit,  not  putting  our  horses  to  their  speed  at  first 
from  fear  of  blowing  them  too  early  in  a  chase  which 
we  determined  should  last  to  the  death.  We  kept  on 


PRAIRIE    RIDING.  235 

in  company  until  we  had  neared  the  top  of  the  first  prai- 
rie roll ;  here,  finding  my  horse  in  much  the  best  con- 
dition, I  left  my  companions,  and  at  an  increased  speed 
continued  the  pursuit.  I  have  said  that  the  prairie  was 
smooth ;  by  this  the  reader,  who  has  never  seen  one  of 
those  immense  grassy  plains,  must  not  imagine  an  even, 
hard,  and  well-trod  common,  resembling  the  spot,  may- 
hap, where  in  boyhood  he  has  kicked  football  or  joined 
in  the  many  sports  incidental  to  his  earlier  years ;  on 
the  contrary,  the  smoothest  of  our  Western  prairies 
have  an  uneven  surface,  and  are  filled  with  the  holes  of 
the  mole  and  the  field-mouse.  Through  the  slight  thick- 
ness of  earth  which  covers  these  holes  the  feet  of  the 
horse  frequently  sink ;  and  unless  he  has  been  brought 
up  and  trained  on  the  prairies,  he  can  never  be  taught 
to  run  upon  them  with  that  confidence  which  developes 
his  full  powers.  When  pursued,  the  buffalo  chooses  the 
roughest  road  he  can  find,  and  leads  his  pursuers  down 
break-neck  precipices,  or  up  rough  and  broken  steeps, 
inaccessible  to  other  feet  than  his.  Clumsy  as  he  really 
is,  his  headlong  obstinacy  frequently  carries  him  through 
difficulties  at  which  even  the  more  active  and  well- 
trained  steed  recoils  with  terror,  and  which  the  latter 
might  overcome  with  greater  ease  did  he  but  dare  at- 
tempt them.  But  to  the  chase. 

On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  prairie  roll,  some 
little  distance  in  advance  of  my  companions,  I  discov- 
ered the  buffalo  still  galloping  heavily  and  clumsily 
along,  about  five  hundred  yards  before  me.  The  de- 
scent of  the  prairie  was  here  so  gradual  that  I  could 
see  every  object  at  least  five  miles  distant,  and  the  sur- 
face was  much  smoother  than  I  had  anticipated.  I 
now  put  spurs  to  my  horse,  and  dashed  boldly  down  the 
gentle  slope.  Giving  one  look  behind,  I  saw  that  one 


236  THE    CHASE. 

of  my  companions  at  the  starting-place,  Major  How- 
ard, had  given  up  the  chase,  or  rather  his  horse  had 
given  up.  Lieutenant  Lubbock  and  one  of  the  men, 
the  latter  mounted  on  a  mule  which,  if  he  could  not  get 
over  the  ground  pai'ticularly  fast,  had  at  least  the  com- 
mendable quality  of  running  all  day,  were  still  in  hot 
pursuit. 

The  prairie,  as  I  have  said,  was  comparatively 
smooth ;  and  although  I  could  not  spur  my  horse  into 
his  full,  free,  and  open  stride,  I  was  soon  up  with  the 
huge  animal,  which  was  now  at  his  utmost  speed.  Oc- 
casionally, as  if  to  rest  his  legs  on  one  side,  he  would 
roll  over  on  the  other,  changing  from  side  to  side  as  his 
weight  would  tire  him.  This  roll  of  the  body  must 
have  been  noticed  by  all  who  have  chased  these  ani- 
mals, and  is  a  peculiar  gait  which  I  believe  belongs  to 
the  buffalo  alone.  The  one  I  was  chasing  was  a  bull 
of  the  largest  and  most  powerful  frame,  his  bright,  gla- 
ring eyeballs  peering  out  from  his  shaggy  frontlet  of 
hair,  showing  plainly  that  he  was  maddened  by  his 
wounds  and  the  close  pursuit.  It  was  with  the  great- 
est difficulty,  so  terrible  was  his  aspect,  that  I  could 
get  my  horse  within  twenty  yards  of  him,  and  when  I 
fired  my  first  charge  at  that  distance  the  ball  did  not 
take  effect. 

As  the  chase  continued  my  horse  came  to  his  work 
more  kindly,  and  soon  appeared  to  take  an  interest  in 
the  exciting  race  ;  yet  I  was  still  unable  to  lay  him  up 
directly  alongside  the  buffalo.  I  could  approach  him 
closely  in  the  rear,  but  the  affrighted  steed  sheered  as 
soon  as  he  lapped  the  mountain  of  scraggy  hair  and 
flesh.  Finding  it  impossible  to  gain  the  position  I  so 
much  wished,  I  dropped  a  few  yards  behind  ;  then,  by 
dashing  my  spurs  furiously  in  his  sides,  I  was  enabled 


THE    BUFFALO    WOUNDED.  237 

to  bring  my  horse  to  charge  upon  the  buffalo's  quarters. 
As  I  neared  the  animal  I  raised  my  pistol,  and  when 
about  passing  him,  in  a  diagonal  line,  fired  at  less  than 
four  yards'  distance.  The  now  infuriated  buffalo  shrank 
as  the  ball  took  effect  just  back  of  the  long  hair  on  his 
shoulders.  Under  such  headway  was  I  when  I  dis- 
charged my  pistol  that  I  was  compelled  to  cut  across 
directly  in  front  of  him  and  close  to  his  head,  and  when 
safely  on  the  opposite  or  right  side  I  reined  up  and  once 
more  dropped  behind  for  another  charge.  Again  I  put 
spurs  to  their  work,  and,  as  I  fairly  flew  by,  gave  the 
buffalo  another  wound  directly  in  his  side.  He  was 
now  foaming  with  rage  and  pain.  His  eyes  resembled 
two  deep-red  balls  of  fire — his  tongue  was  out,  and  curl- 
ing inwardly — while  his  long  and  tufted  tail  was  either 
carried  high  aloft  or  lashed  madly  against  his  sides — a 
wild,  and,  at  the  same  time,  magnificent  picture  of  des- 
peration. 

By  this  time  my  horse  was  almost  completely  subject 
to  my  guidance.  He  no  longer  pricked  his  ears  with 
fear  or  sheered  off  as  I  approached  the  monster  we 
were  pursuing,  but  ran  directly  up  so  that  I  could  al- 
most touch  the  animal  with  my  pistol.  I  had  still  two 
shots  left  in  the  repeater,  and  after  discharging  them  I 
intended  to  fall  back  upon  the  old  Harper's  Ferry,  and, 
by  a  well-directed  shot,  make  a  finish  of  the  business. 

After  firing  my  third  shot  I  again  crossed  the  path 
of  the  buffalo,  and  so  near  that  my  right  foot  nearly 
touched  his  horns.  The  wound  I  had  given  caused 
him  to  spring  suddenly  forward,  thus  bringing  me  in 
too  close  a  contact  to  be  either  pleasing  or  prudent. 
On  coming  up  with  him  a  fourth  time,  and  so  near  that 
the  muzzle  of  my  pistol  was  not  two  yards  from  his  side, 
the  barrel  dropped  off  just  as  I  was  about  to  pull  the 


238  THE    CHASE    CONTINUED. 

trigger.  As  I  dashed  by  the  infuriated  animal  he  vain- 
ly endeavoured  to  gore  and  overthrow  my  horse  by 
suddenly  turning  his  head  and  springing  at  me. 

The  chase  was  now  up,  so  far  as  I  was  concerned, 
for  the  pistol  was  a  borrowed  one,  and  very  valuable. 
I  had  checked  my  horse  and  dismounted  to  search  for 
it,  when  Lieutenant  Lubbock  came  up.  His  horse  was 
completely  broken  down  and  unable  to  reach  the  buf- 
falo— in  the  hurry  and  excitement  I  told  him  to  mount 
mine  immediately  and  continue  the  pursuit.  Soon  he 
was  up  with  the  buffalo.  By  this  time,  so  kindly  had 
the  horse  taken  to  his  work,  that  his  rider  was  able  to 
fire  every  shot  without  once  passing  the  wounded  ani- 
mal. The  latter  stuck  the  horse  once  with  his  left  horn, 
but  did  not  hurt  him  seriously. 

The  other  pursuer  with  the  mule  still  continued  the 
chase,  and  as  the  pace  of  the  buffalo  slackened  from 
loss  of  blood  and  weariness,  the  former  gradually  crept 
up.  I  stopped  to  gaze  upon  the  exciting  scene.  Every 
minute  or  two  a  flash  and  smoke  would  be  seen,  and 
then  the  sharp  report  of  the  pistol  would  reach  the  spot 
where  I  stood. 

In  this  way  the  chase  was  continued  until  Lieutenant 
L.  had  discharged  his  own  arms,  together  with  my  hol- 
ster pistols.  He  then  pulled  up,  and  the  other  pursuer 
mounted  my  horse  and  continued  the  chase.  I  could 
not  help  pitying  the  noble  animal,  which  had  by  this  time 
run  at  least  six  miles.  In  a  very  short  time  the  new 
pursuer  was  up  with  the  buffalo,  and  again  I  could  see 
the  smoke  as  each  pistol  was  discharged  ;  but  by  this 
time  the  space  between  us  was  too  great  for  me  to  hear 
the  reports.  I  gazed  until  both  the  pursued  and  pursuer 
were  mere  black  specks  upon  the  prairie,  and  never 
turned  my  eyes  until  they  were  completely  lost  in  the 
distance. 


BUFFALO    BROUGHT  TO   BAY.  239 


CHAPTER  XII. 

A  successful  Search.  —  The  Buffalo  brought  to  Bay.  —  Appearance  of  my 
Horse  after  the  Chase. — Prospects  of  another  Shower. — Adventure  with  a 
Rattlesnake  in  the  Dark.  —  Fortunate  Escape.  —  The  Shower  upon  us. — 
Buffalo  found  in  the  Morning. — March  resumed. — Swimming  our  Animals. 
— Singular  Method  of  Cooking. — Wolves  in  our  Vicinity. — Encounter  with 
a  Drove  of  Mustangs.  —  Excitement  among  us.  —  Mountains  discovered 
ahead. — Leave  the  grand  Prairie. — Singular  Hills. — Compelled  to  abandon 
our  Course. — Chances  becoming  Desperate. — Suffering  and  Starvation. — • 
Large  fresh-water  Stream  discovered.  —  Speculations  as  to  its  Name. — 
Mexican  "  Sign"  seen. — More  Remarks  in  relation  to  Red  River. — Plum 
Patches.  —  Carlos  and  Brignoli  seen. — Their  Sufferings.  —  The  Texans 
driven  to  the  greatest  strait  for  Food. — An  Anecdote. — Compelled  to  eat 
broken-down  Horse  Flesh. — A  cold,  raw  Night. — Fairly  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains. — A  beautiful  Valley.  —  A  Feast  of  Catfish.  —  Arrival  at  the 
Angosturas.  —  Encounter  with  a  Party  of  Mexicans.  —  Unwonted  Excite- 
ment.—  Matias  sent  back  to  the  Command. — Advance  towards  the  Settle- 
ments.— Farther  Sufferings  of  the  Texans. — Meet  with  an  immense  Herd 
of  Sheep.  —  A  Feast.  —  Dissertation  on  Starvation.  —  Mexican  Shepherds 
and  their  Dogs. 

A  SEARCH  of  brief  duration  enabled  me  to  find  the  lost 
barrel  of  my  pistol ;  and  when  this  was  accomplished  I 
went  back  alone  to  seek  the  main  body.  After  travel- 
ling a  short  distance,  I  met  several  of  our  men,  who 
had  previously  been  concealed  by  a  slight  roll  of  the 
prairie,  and  were  now  coming  out,  eager  to  learn  our 
success.  The  last  man  who  had  taken  up  the  pursuit 
of  the  buffalo  with  my  horse  was  soon  seen  cantering 
back.  Half  an  hour  brought  him  up,  when  he  informed 
us  that  after  firing  all  his  pistols  he  had  brought  the 
buffalo  to  bay,  and  that  he  had  left  him  with  the  blood 
running  from  his  mouth — a  sure  sign  that  he  had  receiv- 
ed his  death  wound.  I  gave  him  Lieutenant  Lubbock's 
horse,  and  with  a  small  party  he  went  back  in  search 
of  the  wounded  buffalo. 


240  A  STARTLING    ADVENTURE. 

I  found  my  own  horse  completely  white  with  foam, 
and  much  distressed  after  the  long  and  exciting  chase. 
Without  mounting  I  trotted  him  briskly  to  the  camp, 
distant  about  five  miles,  arrived  there  just  at  dark,  and 
immediately  commenced  rubbing  him  violently  with 
tufts  of  grass.  Nobly  had  he  sustained  his  part  in  our 
attempt  to  procure  food,  and  I  was  anxious  that  he 
should  not  suffer  after  his  severe,  his  killing  race. 
While  thus  engaged,  the  heavens  became  suddenly 
overcast,  and  a  distant  roll  of  thunder  warned  me  that 
we  were  to  have  another  visitation  of  rain.  I  robbed 
myself  of  one  of  my  blankets  to  favour  the  poor  animal, 
strapped  it  tightly  upon  his  back,  and  set  out  to  stake 
him  fast  before  the  rain  commenced.  I  had  a  lariat 
about  his  neck,  some  twenty  yards  long,  and  attached 
to  the  other  end  was  an  iron  spike,  which,  when  driven 
its  full  length  into  the  earth,  could  not  be  drawn  out  by 
a  horizontal  pull.  By  this  time  it  was  pitchy  dark,  and 
while  I  was  in  the  act  of  stooping  to  thrust  the  spike  into 
the  ground  with  my  right  hand,  a  rattlesnake,  of  large 
size,  judging  from  the  sound  of  his  rattles,  struck  me  a 
violent  blow  immediately  above  the  elbow,  but  fortu- 
nately without  breaking  the  skin.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  I  left  horse  and  everything,  and  took  the  longest 
kind  of  steps  out  of  the  neighbourhood — my  feelings  I 
will  not  pretend  to  describe.  By  the  remains  of  a  fire, 
which  had  now  nearly  gone  out,  I  ascertained  that  I  had 
received  no  scratch.  I  was  dressed  in  a  coarse  Atta- 
kapas  cottonade  short  jacket,  under  which  I  had  a  red 
flannel  and  a  linen  shirt.  Through  the  folds  of  all  these 
the  fangs  of  the  serpent  had  not  penetrated,  although  at 
the  time  I  should  hardly  have  known  it  had  the  venom- 
ous reptile  bitten  my  arm  half  off.  I  can  conceive  of 
nothing  more  startling  than  to  find  one's  self  suddenly  in 


A    COLD    BATH.  241 

contact  with  a  rattlesnake  in  the  dark — the  deadly  sound 
of  their  alarm-notes  is  terrifying  to  a  degree  that  sends 
the  blood  rushing  to  the  heart,  paralyzes  the  faculties, 
and  strikes  a  cold  tremour  through  the  system  with  the 
suddenness  of  an  electric  shock. 

The  party  who  had  gone  out  to  look  for  the  buffalo 
returned  after  dark,  unsuccessful  in  their  search.  As 
the  direction  the  animal  had  taken  was  well  known, 
however,  it  was  determined  to  send  out  a  party  early 
in  the  morning  to  hunt  for  him.  We  knew  that  he  must 
be  so  badly  wounded  as  to  be  past  running ;  our  hopes 
were  that  he  had  not  died  in  the  early  part  of  the  night 
and  been  devoured  by  wolves. 

Frank  Combs  and  myself  were  still  bedfellows,  doub- 
ling our  scanty  covering  on  the  wet,  cold  nights,  so  as 
to  render  both  more  comfortable.  I  had  now  scarcely 
crawled  under  the  blankets  he  had  spread  upon  the 
ground,  before  the  heavy  drops  which  precede  a  prai- 
rie shower  began  falling,  and  before  I  had  well  tucked 
and  nestled  myself  in  a  comfortable  position  a  perfect 
avalanche  of  rain  was  pouring  upon  me.  Every  one 
of  my  readers  who  has  taken  a  cold  bath,  must  recol- 
lect the  hesitation,  the  shrugs,  the  shiverings  and  the 
chills  with  which  he  first  entered  the  water — the  diffi- 
culty of  making  up  his  mind  to  essay  the  dreaded 
plunge  when  he  knows  full  well  it  is  to  be  made :  so  it 
is  with  a  bivouac  upon  the  prairie  during  a  heavy  thun- 
der-shower. The  unfortunate  wight,  who  is  destined 
to  undergo  a  soaking,  at  first  attempts  to  keep  himself 
dry  when  his  better  sense  teaches  him  that  all  efforts  of 
the  kind  must  prove  unavailing.  As  the  cold  stream 
first  penetrates  his  blanket,  and  trickles  down  his  sides, 
he  screws  his  body  inward  or  outward  to  avoid  the 
chilling  current.  Anon,  another  stream  finds  its  way, 

VOL.  I.— X 


242  THE   BUFFALO   FOUND. 

then  another,  until  finally  he  feels  that  farther  attempts 
to  stay  the  flood  from  without  are  useless,  and  he  then 
stretches  himself  in  as  favourable  a  position  as  he  can, 
and  composes  himself  to  that  sleep  which  tired  nature 
is  sure  to  exact.  The  shower  which  fell,  on  the  occa- 
sion to  which  I  have  just  alluded,  was  among  the  heav- 
iest of  the  heavy.  The  lightning  lit  up  the  prairie  in 
every  direction,  and  the  darkness  which  succeeded  each 
flash  appeared  to  me  of  more  than  common  blackness 
— thick  and  impenetrable — a  wall  of  gloom.  The  wind, 
too,  howled  and  moaned  around  us,  and  struck  a  cold 
chill  through  our  scanty  covering.  Tired  and  faint, 
however,  from  want  of  food  and  the  unusual  fatigues 
of  the  day,  wet  and  cold  as  I  was,  I  soon  fell  asleep. 

The  next  morning,  while  we  were  drying  our  blan- 
kets, a  party  went  out  in  search  of  the  buffalo,  and  with 
success.  They  found  him  badly  wounded  and  unable 
to  run,  and  a  single  well-directed  ball  completed  at 
length  our  work  of  the  previous  evening.  On  taking 
off  his  hide,  it  was  found  that  more  than  thirty  balls  had 
struck  him.  They  were  mostly  small,  however,  and 
not  one  of  them  had  touched  a  vital  part,  although  he 
must  have  died  during  the  day  from  the  wounds. 
Every  pound  of  his  poor  and  tough  flesh,  for  he  was 
an  old  and  lean  bull,  was  brought  into  camp,  and  after 
it  had  been  equally  divided  among  the  different  mess- 
es, preparations  were  made  for  our  immediate  depar- 
ture. 

Our  encampment  was  on  the  bank  of  a  small  ravine, 
bordered  by  a  flank  of  low  hackberry  and  other  trees. 
It  was  almost  the  only  place  we  had  yet  seen  on  the 
immense  upper  prairie  where  a  sufficiency  of  wood 
could  be  found  for  cooking  purposes,  even  had  we  been 
in  possession  of  anything  to  cook;  now  that  we  had 


PRAIRIE    WOLVES.  243 

meat  we  were  compelled  by  circumstances  to  continue 
the  march,  hungry  as  wolves,  and  with  the  raw  mate- 
rial for  at  least  a  full  breakfast  hanging  at  our  saddle- 
skirts. 

We  had  scarcely  proceeded  a  mile  before  we  encoun- 
tered a  narrow  but  deep  gully,  running  nearly  north 
and  south,  filled  to  the  top  with  water.  Having  no 
certainty  of  finding  a  fording-place  near,  we  dashed 
boldly  in  and  swam  safely  across.  The  passage  made, 
the  journey  was  resumed,  and  briskly  we  scoured 
across  the  desolate  prairie.  We  hurried  rapidly  on, 
with  the  hope  that  before  nightfall  we  might  discover 
either  trees  or  bushes  of  some  kind  with  which  to  cook 
our  buffalo  meat,  but  the  sun  went  down,  and  with  it  all 
our  prospects  of  having  a  well-dressed  supper. 

We  gathered  a  few  buffalo  chips* — excellent  fuel 
when  dry,  and  universally  used  for  cooking  purposes  by 
all  travellers  upon  the  lone  prairies — but  in  the  present 
instance  they  had  been  made  damp  by  the  heavy  night- 
showers,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  we 
could  ignite  them  at  all.  We  made  out,  however,  to 
warm  our  meat  a  little — I  will  not  say  that  it  was  cook- 
ed— and  voraciously  did  I  swallow  several  pounds  of 
the  tough,  unsavoury  food. 

That  night,  and  for  the  first  time  since  we  had  struck 
the  grand  prairie,  we  were  serenaded  by  a  pack  of 
wolves,  which  skulked  and  howled  for  hours  within  a 
few  yards  of  our  outposts.  The  "  sign"  was  considered 
highly  favourable,  as  these  animals  are  seldom  found 

*  This  is  the  name  given  by  Western  traders  to  the  immense  quantity  of 
buffalo  ordure  found  scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  prairie.  When  dry  and 
ignited  it  gives  out  a  strong  heat,  emits  little  offensive  smell,  and  answers  the 
purpose  of  a  wood  fire  very  well.  The  hunter  throws  his  meat  upon  the 
coals,  or  places  it  upon  his  gunstick  and  holds  it  over  the  fire — in  either  case 
it  is  well  cooked. 


244  A    FLAG    OF    TRUCE. 

far  from  woods  or  settlements.  An  old  backwoodsman 
remarked  that  we  should  find  Indians,  white  people,  or 
an  end  to  the  prairie,  the  next  day. 

On  the  following  morning  we  made  an  early  start, 
the  prairie  before  us  still  presenting  the  same  lone  and 
dreary  appearance.  We  had  travelled  but  a  few  miles 
when  a  drove  of  horses,  numbering  some  seventy-five, 
was  discovered  a  short  distance  to  our  left.  They  were 
near  enough  for  us  to  see  plainly  that  they  were  horses, 
and  if  wild  ones  that  they  were  uncommonly  tame,  while 
many  of  our  party  asserted  that  they  could  see  human 
beings  among  them,  resting  quietly  upon  the  ground 
or  moving  about.  Some  even  said  that  they  could  see 
mounted  men  in  the  extreme  distance,  as  though  driving 
in  the  cavallada;  at  all  events,  the  different  surmises 
and  assertions  created  an  unwonted  excitement  among 
us.  If  our  neighbours  were  only  mustangs,  it  was  an 
evidence  that  we  were  near  the  edge  of  the  gloomy 
prairie,  for  those  animals  are  seldom  seen  in  large  num- 
bers far  from  mesquits  and  watercourses  ;  if  they  were 
Indians,  we  might  obtain  some  information  from  them, 
as  they  could  hardly  be  Caygiias ;  and  again,  if  they 
were  Mexicans,  and  we  really  thought  they  were,  then 
our  journey  might  almost  be  considered  at  an  end — we 
could  obtain  information  of  the  nearest  route  to  the  set- 
tlements, and  very  likely  a  supply  of  provisions  for  our 
immediate  use.  Our  main  party  halted  and  formed, 
while  three  or  four  of  us  set  off  with  the  intention  of 
taking  a  closer  look  at  our  neighbours.  We  hoisted  a 
flag  of  truce,  and  a  sorry  flag  it  was.  I  was  the  owner 
and  possessor  of  a  handkerchief  which,  in  its  better 
days,  had  been  white.  It  was  now  a  miserable  whity 
brown ;  but  at  the  same  time  it  came  nearer  a  peaceful 
colour  than  anything  we  had,  and  was  accordingly 


MOUNTAINS    SEEN.  245 

hoisted  upon  a  ramrod  and  held  aloft.  As  we  gradual- 
ly approached,  there  appeared  to  be  no  little  commo- 
tion among  the  animals — a  running  hither  and  thither, 
as  is  the  custom  with  wild  horses.  We  had  noticed 
three  or  four  white  spots  among  them,  which,  in  the  dis- 
tance, we  had  taken  for  flags;  a  nearer  approach  con- 
vinced some  of  us  that  these  spots  were  young  colts. 
With  this  impression  we  returned  to  the  main  body,  but 
even  up  to  this  time  I  more  than  half  believe  that  they 
were  tame  animals,  and  that  human  beings  were  moving 
among  them.  Had  we  proceeded  a  short  half  mile 
farther  towards  them  all  doubts  would  have  been  set 
at  rest,  and  possibly  we  might  have  saved  ourselves 
many  miles  of  weary  travel  and  many  hours  of  starva- 
tion.* 

About  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  some  ten  miles  from 
the  place  where  we  had  seen  the  horses,  the  deep-blue 
tops  of  a  range  of  mountains  were  discerned,  which,  as 
we  journeyed  on,  soon  more  plainly  developed  them- 
selves. It  may  be  readily  conceived  that  this  was  a 
joyful  sight  to  all.  We  had  now  been  seven  days  upon 
the  prairie,  averaging  at  least  thirty  miles  a  day,  and 
many  began  to  despair  of  ever  getting  off  the  dreary 
waste.  There  was  now  a  prospect  of  a  change,  and 
any  change,  we  then  thought,  would  be  for  the  better. 
We  continued  on  until  near  three  o'clock,  when  sud- 
denly a  beautiful  valley,  studded  here  and  there  with  a 
clump  of  trees,  appeared  in  sight.  To  the  north,  in  the 
distance,  there  was  every  appearance  of  a  large  stream 
of  water,  and  that,  in  our  fond  anticipations,  we  put 


*  We  afterward  met  with  a  party  of  Mexicans  who  said  that,  while  en- 
camped, they  had  seen  us  upon  the  great  prairie,  and  that  from  our  actions 
they  thought  we  were  about  to  approach  them.  Perhaps  this  was  the  same 
party. 

X2 


246  A   CHANGE    OF    ROUTE. 

down  as  the  long-sought-for  Red  River.  A  halt  was 
called  in  a  pleasant  little  grove  of  cotton- woods,  through 
which  a  small  stream  of  fresh  water  was  gently  purl- 
ing, and  here  we  built  a  large  fire  of  wood  from  a  dry 
and  fallen  tree,  cooked  what  was  left  of  our  tough  buf- 
falo meat,  and  dried  our  wet  blankets  and  clothing. 
Two  hours  were  spent  at  this  comfortable  camping- 
ground,  after  which  we  mounted  and  pursued  our  un- 
certain journey.  Unable  to  continue  our  old  course, 
northwest,  on  account  of  deep  and  abrupt  ravines  to 
the  northward,  we  travelled  west  this  afternoon,  through 
narrow  valleys  encircled  by  high,  conical,  and  singular- 
ly-formed hills.  At  sundown  we  reached  a  small  spring 
among  these  hills,  where  we  bivouacked  at  once.  Du- 
ring this  night  there  was  a  panic  and  half  stampede 
among  our  animals,  caused,  in  the  opinion  of  the  guard, 
by  the  appearance  of  a  small  drove  of  mustangs  on  the 
steep  hills  which  overlooked  our  encampment. 

Resuming  the  march  early  on  the  following  morning, 
we  soon  became  entangled  among  high,  steep,  and  rug- 
ged hills,  the  passage  over  which  was  almost  impossi- 
ble. Such  was  the  nature  of  this  singular  piece  of 
country  that  we  were  compelled,  although  reluctantly, 
to  abandon  entirely  the  course  we  had  so  long  travel- 
led, and  seek  an  outlet  from  the  hills  in  a  direction 
south  of  west.  We  were  all  anxious  to  visit  the  river 
on  our  right,  to  note  its  general  appearance,  taste  its 
waters,  and  form  some  opinion  as  to  the  probabilities 
of  its  being  Red  River ;  but  as  well  might  we  have  un- 
dertaken the  task  of  climbing  the  largest  cotton-wood 
upon  its  banks  on  horseback  as  that  of  cutting  our  way 
through  the  natural  obstacles  which  intervened  between 
us  and  the  stream.  But  go  on  in  some  direction  we 
must ;  and,  as  there  was  no  alternative,  we  set  off  in  a 


TROUBLES    INCREASING.  247 

southwest  course — the  nearest  point  we  could  possibly 
make  to  what  was  considered  the  right  one. 

Even  the  country  over  which  we  were  now  compell- 
ed to  travel,  much  as  it  threw  us  off  our  course,  was 
exceedingly  rough,  and  for  the  sake  of  our  poor  horses 
at  least,  we  wished  ourselves  back  upon  the  smooth  and 
open  prairie.  Many  of  their  shoes  were  torn  off  by  the 
rocks,  and,  unused  to  go  without  them,  their  feet  be- 
came so  tender  and  sore  that  they  could  not  move  with- 
out difficulty.  To  this  should  be  added  our  own  cata- 
logue of  misfortunes — travelling,  day  after  day,  while 
enduring  the  sharpest  pangs  of  hunger,  and  in  a  state 
of  harassing  uncertainty  as  to  our  present  situation, 
even  more  annoying  than  the  starvation — with  all  these 
hardships  to  undergo,  the  reader  can  easily  imagine 
that  our  chances  were  becoming  desperate.  We  saw 
numbers  of  antelope  and  deer  during  the  day,  and  pass- 
ed through  one  or  two  prairie  dog  towns  situated  deep 
in  the  narrow  and  secluded  valleys  ;  the  animals  were 
all  so  shy,  however,  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  a  shot 
at  them.  The  prairie  dogs,  in  particular,  appeared  to 
shun  us  with  more  than  their  ordinary  prudence — giv- 
ing their  short  yelps  of  alarm  before  we  were  within 
half  a  mile  of  them,  then  tumbling  hurriedly  into  their 
holes,  and  not  once  showing  their  heads  so  long  as  we 
were  in  sight.  At  night  we  encamped  at  another 
spring  among  the  hills,  without  having  tasted  food  since 
our  scanty  meal  of  buffalo  meat  on  the  preceding  day. 
We  tightened  our  belts  by  taking  up  still  another  hole 
— a  great  relief  when  suffering  from  want  of  food — and 
then  threw  ourselves  upon  the  ground  to  seek  forget- 
fulness  in  sleep. 

We  made  another  early  start  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, winding  our  way  among  rough  and  steep  hills,  and 


248  TOKENS    OF    CIVILIZATION. 

slowly  nearing  the  chain  of  mountains  west  of  us. 
About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon — it  was  the  8th  of 
September ;  I  can  never  forget  the  date — we  got  clear 
of  the  hills,  and  entered  a  narrow  but  fertile  valley  run- 
ning nearly  cast  and  west.  A  light  fringing  of  trees  in 
advance  convinced  us  that  the  valley  was  watered  by 
a  stream  larger  than  any  we  had  recently  met  with, 
and  with  excited  feelings  we  pressed  our  jaded  animals 
forward.  Our  anticipations  of  finding  a  fresh-water 
stream  were  more  than  realized — we  came  suddenly 
upon  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  river  of  most  delicious 
water,  running  over  a  bed  of  yellow  sand,  and  so  low 
that  we  forded  it  with  ease.  In  the  vicinity  we  found 
stumps  of  trees  which  had  evidently  been  cut  down  by 
Mexicans.  Remnants  of  old  cart-standards  and  wheels 
were  also  discovered  :  proof  conclusive  that  the  place 
had  been  visited  by  other  than  Indians.  With  gladden- 
ed hearts  \vc  scanned  these  evidences  of  civilization, 
and  even  the  keen  cravings  of  hunger  were  for  the  mo- 
ment forgotten  in  the  anticipation  of  soon  reaching  the 
settlements. 

All  was  now  inquiry  and  speculation  as  to  the  name 
of  the  stream  we  were  upon.  Some  of  our  men,  and 
they  the  wisest,  too,  contended  that  we  had  either 
crossed  or  headed  Red  River,  and  that  we  were  now 
upon  one  of  the  southern  forks  of  the  Canadian.  Oth- 
ers, again,  said  that  if  there  was  any  such  stream  as 
Red  River  above  the  lower  or  middle  prairies,  this 
must  be  it,  although  its  waters  were  entirely  dissimilar 
in  all  respects  to  what  existed  in  our  received  opin- 
ions as  the  general  features  and  appearance  of  that 
stream.  Then  there  were  two  or  three  men  among 
us,  old  trappers  and  traders  who  had  visited  Santa  Fe 
by  way  of  St.  Louis,  who  said  that  we  were  upon  the 


SPECULATIONS    CONCERNING    RED    RIVER.  249 

Mora,  and  but  a  few  miles  from  San  Miguel.  Of  course, 
nothing  certain  can  be  known ;  but  the  more  probable 
conjecture  is,  that  we  were  now  upon  the  waters  of  the 
Arkansas,  and  that  we  had  headed  the  Red  River  of 
the  United  States.  This  cuts  off  some  two  or  three 
hundred  miles  from  the  length  of  the  latter  stream,  as 
laid  down  upon  a  majority  of  the  maps ;  but  I  am  in- 
clined to  believe  that  it  deserves  this  abbreviation. 

If  the  Red  River  of  the  United  States  rises  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains — the  reader  will  bear  in  mind  that  I 
say  if — how  and  where  docs  it  make  its  descent,  from 
the  high  table-lands  which  form  the  base  of  those  emi- 
nences, to  the  prairies  beneath  the  m.iin  western  steppe  ? 
The  descent  can  hardly  be  gradual,  but,  on  the  contrary, 
the  stream  must  tumble,  in  some  places,  hundreds  of 
feet  down  the  eminences  which  the  traveller  is  obliged 
to  ascend  as  he  journeys  westward  from  the  Cross  Tim- 
bers. These  steppes  grow  higher  and  more  abrupt,  as 
they  extend  to  the  south,  after  leaving  the  valleys  of  the 
Canadian  and  Arkansas  ;  in  fact,  I  do  not  know  that 
they  extend  north  of  the  southern  fork  of  the  Canadian 
at  all. 

The  New  Mexicans  have  a  Red  River,  rising  in  the 
mountains  north  of  Santa  Fe,  but  this  is  known  to  be 
but  a  branch  of  the  Canadian.  Farther  south  rises  the 
Mora  ;  this  is  another  stream  finding  its  way  to  the 
Canadian,  and  at  this,  although  by  this  time  the  name 
may  have  been  changed,  I  have  little  doubt  we  had 
now  arrived.  Its  waters  are  as  unlike  those  of  the  Red 
River  as  are  those  of  the  Croton  unlike  the  Mississippi. 
A  majority  of  the  map-makers,  by  joining  the  Red  River 
as  far  as  known  with  some  one  of  the  rivers  rising  in 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  have  made  a  long  and  very 
pretty  stream,  as  seen  upon  their  charts ;  were  they  to 


250  THE  AUTHOR'S  BELIEF. 

journey  along  the  line  of  their  imaginary  river,  with  the 
hope  of  finding  the  water  they  have  traced,  I  am  in- 
clined to  believe  they  would  suffer  much  from  thirst 
before  they  had  crossed  the  boundless  prairie  spread- 
ing eastward  from  the  outer  spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains. 

Not  to  tire  my  reader  much  farther  with  speculations 
in  relation  to  Red  River,  I  will  here  state  my  belief  that 
it  takes  its  rise  at  the  base  of  the  high  steppe  I  have  so 
often  alluded  to,  and  but  a  few  miles  north  of  the  head 
waters  of  the  Brazos  and  Colorado  of  Texas.  On  its 
southern  side  it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Quintufue 
and  Palo  Duro,  rising  from  the  sides  of  the  high  steppe,* 
with  other  short  but  wide  streams,  which  in  spring  con- 
tain much  water.  We  crossed  them  during  the  dry 
season,  and  at  a  time  when  their  beds  contained  but  lit- 
tle, and  that  brackish  and  standing  in  sluggish  pools. 
Southeast  of  the  steppe,  at  a  distance  of  perhaps  seven- 
ty-five miles,  rises  the  Wichita,  which,  after  running  a 
course  'a  little  north  of  east,  empties  into  the  Red  River 
some  fifty  or  seventy  miles  west  of  the  Cross  Timbers. 
It  may  be  recollected  that  in  a  previous  chapter,  and 
prior  to  the  departure  of  Carlos,  we  had  noticed  a  large 
stream  south  of  the  Wichita,  and  running  nearly  paral- 
lel ;  that  was  undoubtedly  the  red  fork  of  the  Brazos. 

It  is  certainly  not  a  little  amusing  to  examine  the  Red 
River  of  the  different  maps,  and  trace  its  most  singular 
windings.  On  several  of  the  maps  now  before  me,  I  see 
that  it  rises  north  of  Santa  Fe,  near  latitude  38°  north, 
and  in  longitude  varying  from  104  to  106°  west  of 
Greenwich.  On  one  of  these  maps  its  general  course, 

*  The  Mexicans,  who  started  with  Albert  Pike  in  his  journey  across  the 
prairies,  spoke  of  this  steppe,  and  gave  the  name  of  Las  Cejas,  or  the  Eye- 
brows, to  the  singular  range.  Mr.  P.  appears  to  have  passed  to  the  south  of 
the  steppe,  his  Mexican  companions  returning  before  he  reached  the  Brazos. 


WILD   FRtTlT,  251 

for  some  five  hundred  miles,  is  southwest ;  on  another 
it  only  runs  some  three  hundred  in  that  direction,  and 
then  strikes  off  across  the  prairies  north  of  east.  The 
most  correctly-laid-down  course  of  the  stream,  on  any 
of  the  charts  I  have  examined,  may  be  found  on  Tan- 
ner's map  of  Mexico ;  but  there  it  is  somewhat  too  long, 
although  the  general  eastern  course  he  has  given  it  is 
in  the  main  correct.  But  I  must  leave  speculation,  and 
return  to  the  watercourse  we  had  by  this  time  reached. 
Our  little  party  remained  some  half  hour  upon  the 
banks  of  the  stream,  considering  which  route  to  pursue. 
The  general  course  of  the  river,  as  I  have  before  stated, 
was  a  little  north  of  east,  and  to  follow  it  up  was  finally 
decided  upon.  We  proceeded  along  its  northern  banks, 
as  that  side  afforded  the  best  travelling,  until  dark,  when 
we  encamped  in  a  copse  of  cotton-woods.  A  dreary, 
rainy  night,  was  followed  by  a  day  so  cloudy  that  we 
could  not  steer  a  course ;  yet  there  was  the  river  act- 
ing as  guide,  and  we  followed  it.  At  times  we  were 
close  in  upon  the  narrow  but  fertile  valley  which  skirt- 
ed its  borders  ;  at  others,  some  long  bend  in  the  stream 
would  throw  us  out  upon  a  succession  of  low,  barren 
sand-hills,  with  little  other  vegetation  gracing  their  sides 
than  dwarf  thorn,  prickly  pear,  or  plum  bushes.  The 
latter  were  not  more  than  eighteen  inches  high,  yet  they 
appeared  to  thrive  luxuriantly  in  the  sand,  and  when  we 
were  among  them  they  were  loaded  with  plums  of  the 
largest  size,  and  such  as  were  ripe  were  of  delicious 
flavour.  Ripe  or  unripe,  however,  the  bushes  were 
stripped  by  our  famished  men,  the  fruit  filling  their  stom- 
achs for  the  time,  but  yielding  no  real  nourishment. 
Some  of  the  half-dried  plums  we  found  in  the  sand 
tasted  like  prunes.  During  the  day  we  also  found  large 
quantities  of  small  but  well-flavoured  grapes,  which 


252  CARLOS    SEEN. 

were  devoured  with  an  avidity  that  told  our  suffer- 
ing. It  was  on  this  day  that  our  runaway  guide,  Carlos, 
was  seen  by  two  of  our  men,  who  were  out  some  dis- 
tance from  the  main  body  in  search  of  plums.  He  was 
still  in  company  with  the  Italian,  Brignoli,  and  both  said 
that  they  had  been  lost,  and  half  starved  from  the 
hour  when  they  left  us,  at  the  same  time  begging  ear- 
nestly for  provisions.  Their  worn  and  haggard  aspect 
told  more  forcibly  than  words  that  they  had  endured 
suffering  the  most  intense.  As  they  promised  to  come 
into  our  camp  at  night,  our  men  left  them  without  ask- 
ing many  questions,  but  they  never  came.  Carlos  prob- 
ably feared  that  we  might  shoot  him,  and  for  that  reason 
kept  out  of  our  way.  Had  any  of  our  horses  been  in 
condition,  the  fugitives  would  probably  have  been  pur- 
sued, and  brought  in — as  it  was,  we  saw  no  more  of 
them  until  after  we  were  taken  prisoners. 

From  after  circumstances  I  have  little  doubt  that  Car- 
los now  knew  where  he  was,  but  he  was  undoubtedly 
ignorant  on  that  point  and  lost  at  the  time  when  he  left 
us.  The  fellow  had  trapped  up  and  down  the  innumer- 
able watercourses  of  the  lower  prairies  without  knowing 
the  name  of  one  of  them,  else  how  could  he  direct  our 
men  to  plum-patches  and  springs  a  long  distance  in  ad- 
vance, and  invariably  writh  accuracy  ?  On  arriving  at 
the  stream  of  fresh  water  which  he  called  the  Utau,  ho 
doubtless  saw  signs  and  landmarks  closely  resembling 
the  features  of  a  stream  called  by  that  name  which  re- 
ally exists  but  a  few  days'  ride  from  Santa  Fe.  As  he 
guided  us  onward,  in  the  course  of  some  three  or  four 
days  he  found  that  he  had  not  only  deceived  himself,  but 
the  command,  and  his  fear  of  punishment  induced  him 
to  leave  us  at  the  earliest  opportunity  that  offered. 

On  the  10th  of  September,  the  day  following  that  on 


THE    CROWS.  253 

which  our  whilom  guide  had  been  seen,  we  found  what 
appeared  to  be  an  old  cart  road,  and  also  a  deserted 
Mexican  camp.  The  road  we  followed  until  it  was 
lost  upon  a  sandy  prairie  destitute  of  vegetation.  This 
day,  three  mountains  were  discovered  in  a  southwest  di- 
rection, and  some  fifteen  miles  distant,  which  bore  the 
strongest  resemblance  to  the  description  Carlos  had 
often  given  us  of  The  Crows.  It  seemed,  too,  as  though 
we  could  discover  a  passage  through  the  chain  of  small- 
er hills  north  of  them — an  opening  resembling  the  An- 
gosturas I  have  often  before  mentioned — but  we  had 
been  so  often  deceived  that  few  of  us  could  now  anti- 
cipate any  such  good  fortune. 

In  the  mean  time,  our  men  were  driven  nearly  to  des- 
peration by  hunger.  Little  or  no  order  could  be  pre- 
served by  the  officers,  the  volunteers  scattering  about 
in  every  direction,  hunting  for  plums,  grapes,  and  such 
game  as  might  fall  in  their  way.  Few  deer  or  antelope 
were  seen,  and  they  were  so  shy  that  it  was  impossible 
to  shoot  them ;  but  in  place  of  them  every  tortoise  and 
snake,  every  living  and  creeping  thing  was  seized  upon 
and  swallowed  by  our  famishing  men  with  a  rapacity 
that  nothing  but  the  direst  hunger  could  induce.  Occa- 
sionally a  skunk  or  polecat  would  reward  some  one 
more  fortunate  than  the  rest ;  but  seven  out  of  every 
ten  of  us  were  compelled  to  journey  on  without  a  mor- 
sel of  anything  to  appease  our  sufferings. 

One  amusing  little  anecdote  I  will  here  relate,  to  show, 
in  the  first  place,  the  direful  straits  to  which  our  men 
were  driven,  and  in  the  second  to  give  my  readers  an 
insight  into  the  trickery  of  old  campaigners.  We  had 
reached  a  camping-ground  late  one  evening,  where  a 
sufficiency  of  wood  was  found  to  kindle  good,  substan- 
tial fires.  While  a  knot  of  us  were  reclining  around 

VOL.  I.— Y 


254  STEALING   A    SUPPER. 

one  of  the  fires,  speculating  as  to  our  prospects,  a  young- 
ster brought  in  a  spotted-backed  land  tortoise,  alive  and 
kicking,  which  he  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  find 
upon  the  prairie.  Throwing  it  upon  the  ground,  and 
placing  the  end  of  his  rifle  upon  the  back  of  the  animal 
to  prevent  its  crawling  off,  he  next  asked  an  old  hunter 
how  to  cook  his  prize.  The  answer  was,  that  he  must 
open  the  coals  and  throw  the  tortoise  in,  cover  it  over, 
and  allow  it  to  remain  for  at  least  half  an  hour  in  the 
fire — a  longer  time  would  only  serve  to  make  the  repast 
more  savoury. 

No  sooner  said  than  done  ;  for  in  less  than  a  minute 
the  unfortunate  tortoise  was  roasting  alive  beneath  a 
bushel  of  coals.  The  countenance  of  the  young  man 
was  lit  with  joy  in  anticipation  of  a  meal,  which,  al- 
though at  any  other  time  it  would  have  been  revolting, 
he  now  coveted  with  that  longing  which  starvation  only 
can  create.  But  it  was  a  meal  he  was  not  destined  to 
enjoy.  The  old  campaigner,  after  telling  him  three  or 
four  times  that  his  supper  was  not  cooked,  finally  found 
means  to  withdraw  the  youngster's  attention  from  the 
coals,  and  then  to  whip  the  animal  out  with  his  iron 
ramrod  was  but  the  work  of  a  moment.  Another  mo- 
ment, and  the  well-roasted  terrapin  was  safe  behind  the 
back  of  the  more  elderly  ranger,  and  where  the  young- 
ster could  not  see  it. 

"  Don't  you  think  he's  nearly  done  ?"  inquired  the  lat- 
ter, now  turning  his  head  and  looking  wistfully  at  the 
fast-expiring  bed  of  coals. 

"  Pretty  well  cooked  by  this  time — you  can  take  him 
out,"  retorted  the  old  borderer,  while  he  quietly  watch- 
ed the  first  speaker  as  he  eagerly  raked  open  the  em- 
bers. 

The  movements  of  the  youngster,  as  he  first  com 


THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS.  255 

menced  opening  the  coals,  were  slow  and  decided :  by- 
and-by,  as  he  neared  the  bottom  of  the  mouldering  heap, 
his  action  grew  excited  and  hurried.  The  expression 
of  his  countenance  may  be  easier  imagined  than  descri- 
bed, as,  after  having  dug  to  the  hard  ground  itself,  he 
turned  to  the  author  of  his  misfortune,  and,  in  utter  igno- 
rance of  the  trick,  exclaimed,  "  He's  gone  /" 

"  Gone  !"  slowly  repeated  the  veteran  borderer : 
"  was  he  alive  when  you  threw  him  in  the  fire  ?" 

"  Certainly — why  ?" 

«  Why !" 

"  Yes,  why  ?" 

"  Because,"  continued  the  ranger,  "  you  must  have 
thought  the  terrapin  mightily  troubled  with  the  simples 
if  you  supposed  he  would  stay  in  the  fire  and  be  roasted 
alive,  when  he  could  easily  crawl  out  and  make  tracks 
off!" 

Gloomily  the  youngster  dragged  himself  to  his  blan- 
ket supperless,  while  the  old  trickster  quietly  wended 
his  way  to  a  neighbouring  fire  to  pick  the  scanty  meat 
from  his  ill-got  prize,  and  chuckle  at  his  success  in 
"  doing"  the  green-horn  out  of  his  supper.  To  return 
to  my  narrative. 

The  road  we  had  found  and  followed  some  distance 
in  the  morning  we  hunted  for  in  vain  in  the  afternoon : 
all  the  old  wheel-marks  had  lost  themselves  in  a  barren, 
gravelly  prairie.  That  we  must  find  a  passage  through 
or  over  the  mountains  before  us  was  considered  cer- 
tain, but  where  that  passage  was,  no  one  could  imagine. 
We  were  far  from  being  aware  of  it  at  the  time,  but 
they  proved  to  be  outer  and  eastern  spurs  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  As  the  sun  gradually  sank  behind  their 
lofty  and  ragged  summits,  a  raw,  chill  breeze  sprang  up 
from  their  neighbourhood.  It  was  the  first  cold  weath- 


256  A   HORSE   KILLED    FOR    FOOD. 

er  we  had  experienced,  and  in  .our  weak  and  exhaust- 
ed condition  the  biting  wind  seemed  to  pierce  directly 
through  us. 

We  continued  our  march  until  we  reached  the  dry 
bed  of  a  mountain  stream,  upon  the  banks  of  which  we 
encamped  for  the  night.  A  flock  of  wild  turkeys  had 
taken  shelter  under  the  banks,  running  off  as  we  ap- 
proached their  roost.  Although  contrary  to  strict  or- 
ders, nothing  could  restrain  our  men  from  banging  and 
blazing  away  at  the  turkeys  as  they  sped  across  the  prai- 
rie— fifty  rifles  and  muskets  being  discharged  at  them 
before  they  were  out  of  sight.  Two  or  three  only  were 
killed  by  the  volley  and  running  fire  which  ensued,  and 
they  were  but  half  grown,  and  so  extremely  poor  that 
they  did  not  furnish  a  meal  for  half  a  dozen  men.  To 
go  farther  without  something  to  eat  was  now  deemed 
impossible — the  wild  and  haggard  expression,  the  sunk- 
en eyes,  and  sallow,  fleshless  faces  of  the  men  too  plain- 
ly showed  that  some  means  of  sustenance  must  be 
speedily  provided.  A  horse  formerly  belonging  to 
Rowland,  which  in  the  early  part  of  the  campaign  had 
been  one  of  the  best  animals  in  the  command,  was  now 
found  to  be  so  poor  and  badly  broken  down  that  it  was 
resolved  to  shoot  him  and  divide  his  flesh  among  the 
different  messes.  As  they  led  the  once  proud  and  gal- 
lant animal  to  execution,  the  words  of  an  old  nursery 
song  came  fresh  to  my  mind — one  that  I  had  neither 
heard  nor  thought  of  for  many,  many  years.  The  bur- 
den of  the  ballad  was, 

"  Poor  old  horse !  he  must  die !" 

and  I  have  only  mentioned  the  circumstance  to  illus- 
trate the  well-known  eccentricities  of  memory.  A  man 
is  often  placed  in  situations  and  becomes  a  witness  of 


COLD    AND    HUNGER.  257 

scenes  which  suddenly  awaken  and  bring   back  the 
long-forgotten  associations  of  his  childhood. 

But  to  return  to  the  actual.  The  horse  was  killed, 
and  in  less  time  than  it  takes  me  to  tell  it  his  hide  was 
off  and  his  flesh  distributed.  I  have  before  said  that  the 
flesh  of  a  young  mustang  is  excellent — but  that  of  an 
old,  broken-down  horse  is  quite  another  affair.  It  was 
tough  as  India-rubber,  and  the  more  a  piece  of  it  was 
masticated  the  larger  it  became  in  the  mouth.  Poor  as 
it  was,  however,  and  hard  to  swallow,  I  am  confident 
that  many  a  man  in  the  party  ate  four  or  five  pounds 
of  it,  half  cooked  and  without  salt — I  know  that  I  de- 
voured my  share.  That  I  lost  some  of  the  good  opin- 
ion I  entertained  of  myself  while  eating  this  food  I  will 
not  pretend  to  deny,  and  even  a  buzzard,  that  sat  perch- 
ed upon  a  dry  limb  of  a  cotton-wood  overhead,  ap- 
peared to  look  down  upon  us  reproachfully  as  he  saw 
us  appropriating  food  that  legitimately  belonged  to  him. 
There  was  something,  too,  like  honest  indignation  ex- 
pressed in  the  countenance  of  a  wolf,  which  sat  quietly 
watching  our  operations  from  the  adjoining  prairie  ;  but 
at  the  time  we  were  hungry  enough  to  make  a  meal 
even  of  him  had  he  fallen  into  our  hands.  A  man  never 
knows  what  he  will  eat  until  driven  by  a  week's  star- 
vation. 

Our  tough  and  most  unsavoury  meal  over,  we  spread 
our  blankets  in  the  ravine,  where  we  could  be  partially 
protected  from  the  biting  northeast  wind  ;  but  the  cut- 
ting blasts  found  their  way  through  our  scanty  cover- 
ing, chilling  our  weakened  frames  to  such  a  degree  as 
almost  entirely  to  prevent  sleep.  With  the  ordinary 
stock  of  flesh  and  blood  we  should  have  been  far  better 
able  to  withstand  the  bitter  wind  ;  as  it  was,  we  could 
only  shrug  and  shake,  and  pass  a  sleepless  night. 

Y2 


258  CROSSING   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

Weak  and  unrefreshed,  we  arose  in  the  morning — 
breakfastless  and  desponding,  we  mounted  our  horses, 
and  once  more  resumed  our  gloomy  march.  Our  course 
was  southwest,  and  in  the  direction  of  what  appeared  to 
be  a  passage  through  the  mountains  ;  but  after  travelling 
some  six  or  eight  miles  we  found  our  farther  progress 
cut  off  by  high  and  precipitous  ascents.  To  return  was 
our  only  alternative,  and  at  noon  we  again  found  our- 
selves near  the  point  whence  we  had  started  in  the 
morning. 

A  consultation  was  now  held  as  to  our  future  course. 
Running  directly  north  was  a  high  chain  of  mountains, 
extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  many  con- 
tended that  our  best  course  would  be  to  travel  along  the 
base  of  this  chain  until  we  either  found  a  passage  through 
or  met  with  the  trail  of  the  St.  Louis  traders.  Others, 
again,  thought  our  wisest  and  safest  plan  would  be  to 
attempt  crossing  directly  over  the  mountains  where  we 
then  were,  laborious  as  was  the  prospect.  The 'latter 
party  prevailed,  and  the  attempt  to  cross  was  imme- 
diately made. 

After  incredible  fatigue  to  both  horses  and  men,  for 
we  were  obliged  to  dismount  and  carry  our  arms  and 
baggage  in  our  hands,  the  ascent  was  finally  achieved. 
Arrived  at  the  summit,  a  beautiful  prospect  was  before 
us.  Below,  a  peaceful  and  lovely  valley  was  spread 
out,  through  the  centre  of  which  the  large  stream  we 
had  left  the  previous  day  wound  along.  Innumerable 
brooks,  taking  their  rise  in  the  mountains  around,  mean- 
dered through  this  valley,  and  finally  found  their  way 
to  the  larger  stream.  Their  immediate  borders  were 
fringed  with  small  trees  and  bushes  of  the  deepest  green, 
while  the  banks  of  the  river  were  skirted  with  a  narrow 
belt  of  timber  of  larger  and  more  luxuriant  growth. 


A    SPLENDID   SUNSET.  259 

The  valley  was  hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  mountains, 
whose  frowning  and  precipitous  fronts  appeared  to  offer 
impassable  barriers  against  all  approach  to  the  tranquil 
and  beautiful  scene  lying  far  below  us.  At  another 
time  these  ragged  and  dangerous  steeps  might  have 
stayed  our  farther  advance ;  but  now,  after  allowing 
our  poor  and  foot-sore  animals  a  short  rest,  we  drove 
them  down,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  found  ourselves 
safe  in  the  valley.  It  was  now  discovered  that  two  of 
our  men  were  missing,  unable,  probably,  from  their  own 
weakness  and  the  jaded  condition  of  their  horses,  to 
keep  up  with  the  main  body.  We  could  only  hope  that 
they  might  be  able  to  follow  our  trail  and  overtake  us 
at  our  encampment — it  was  impossible,  so  weak  and 
lame  were  all  our  horses,  to  go  back  in  search  of  them. 

On  reaching  the  timber  of  the  river  banks  we  imme- 
diately encamped,  and  turned  our  animals  loose  to  graze 
and  rest  themselves  after  their  fatiguing  mountain  march. 
The  river  was  found  to  abound  with  catfish,  and  as  we 
had  several  hooks  and  lines  with  us,  a  sufficient  number 
were  caught  to  give  us  all  a  meal.  I  should  perhaps 
call  it  a  feast ;  for  even  without  salt  or  seasoning  of  any 
kind,  many  of  our  men  ate  pound  after  pound  of  the 
coarse  fish  with  a  relish  which  a  gouty  alderman  might 
covet,  but  could  never  enjoy  over  the  best  bowl  of  tur- 
tle soup  the  ingenuity  of  man  ever  compounded. 

Sunset  in  this  secluded  valley  presented  a  scene  of  al- 
most unrivalled  magnificence,  as  well  as  of  mild  and 
heavenly  beauty.  The  tops  of  the  surrounding  mountains, 
upon  which  the  blue  vault  of  heaven  seemed  to  rest, 
were  gilded  by  the  sun's  last  and  most  brilliant  rays, 
while  the  deep-black  shadows,  as  some  beam  of  sun- 
light would  dance  around  and  kiss  for  the  last  time  a 
more  towering  summit,  would  course  hurriedly  down 


260  A    PASSAGE    FOUND. 

the  frowning  mountain  sides,  as  if  to  find  their  homes  in 
the  depths  below  ere  darkness  assumed  her  sway.  A 
soothing,  an  ethereal  quiet  reigned  throughout  the  valley, 
broken  only  by  the  evening  hymn  of  some  turtle-dove, 
vowing  anew  her  constancy  to  her  mate,  or  by  the  last 
bark  of  the  squirrel,  as,  with  light  and  buoyant  leaps,  he 
wended  his  way  from  the  river  to  his  nest  among  the 
mountain  cliffs.  By-and-by  a  brood  of  wild  turkeys, 
which  had  been  hunting  for  their  supper  at  the  base  of 
the  rocky  steeps,  flew  over  our  heads  and  sought  their 
roost  in  a  large  cotton-wood  which  overhung  the  river. 
The  sharp  crack  of  a  rifle  soon  announced  the  doom  of 
one  of  the  flock,  while  the  report,  taken  up  by  a  thou- 
sand echoes,  reverberated  from  grot  and  glen,  from 
steep  hillside  and  quiet  dell,  until  lost  to  the  ear  in  dis- 
tance. Night  had  thrown  her  sable  mantle,  alike  over 
the  valley  and  the  recently-gilded  mountain-tops,  before 
I  could  turn  from  the  contemplation  of  the  lovely  scene. 

Early  the  next  morning,  Mr.  Hunt,  our  guide,  set  off, 
in  company  with  Captain  Sutton,  in  search  of  a  passage 
through  the  mountains,  which  would  lead  us  along  the 
river  banks.  They  returned  in  two  or  three  hours 
with  the  joyful  intelligence  that  they  had  discovered  an 
excellent  route  in  a  western  direction,  one  which  would 
extricate  us  from  our  present  dilemma  without  much 
labour.  To  saddle  and  mount  our  horses  was  a  work 
of  but  few  moments,  and  then,  with  hearts  much  light- 
ened, we  resumed  the  journey. 

After  crossing  the  river,  and  emerging  from  the  tim- 
ber which  lined  its  banks,  we  entered  a  narrow  but 
open  valley  that  had  been  concealed  from  view  by  a 
projecting  point  of  one  of  the  mountains.  Two  hours' 
ride  brought  us  into  a  road  which  had  evidently  been 
used  for  carts,  as  we  found  yoke-keys,  standards,  and 


THE    ANGOSTURAS.  261 

other  trappings  belonging  to  a  Mexican  vehicle,  scat- 
tered along  its  sides.  On  either  hand,  the  frowning  and 
rocky  sides  of  mountains  rose  high  above  us,  and  we 
now  knew  and  felt  that  we  were  in  the  Angosturas,  or 
Narrows  of  the  river  so  often  spoken  of  by  Carlos, 
where  the  stream  has  forced  its  passage  through  the 
eastern  spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Well  do  these 
mountains  deserve  their  name,  for  they  are  nothing  but 
immense  heaps  of  stones,  irregularly  piled  up,  while 
but  little  vegetation  is  to  be  found  upon  their  sides  save 
a  few  stunted  pines  and  cedars. 

For  three  or  four  miles,  after  first  entering  the  An- 
gosturas, our  road  was  along  a  solid  ledge  of  rocks,  the 
river  on  our  right,  and  running  nearly  east  and  west. 
The  greatest  width  of  the  pass  through  which  the 
stream  runs,  until  the  traveller  leaves  the  rocky  road, 
cannot  be  more  than  half  a  mile,  while  the  towering 
fronts  of  the  mountains  on  either  side  are  so  steep  that 
even  a  goat  would  find  much  difficulty  in  climbing 
them.  On  leaving  the  ledge  of  rocks  the  pass  grows 
gradually  wider,  and  the  road  becomes  sandy.  We  had 
no  sooner  struck  the  latter  than  the  tracks  of  mules  and 
asses  were  plainly  visible.  A  little  farther  on,  the  foot- 
prints of  men  were  also  seen,  and  from  every  appear- 
ance they  had  been  made  but  a  few  hours.  Not  a  sign 
of  a  human  habitation  had  we  discovered,  either  in  the 
beautiful  valley  where  we  had  spent  the  previous  night 
or  along  the  road  we  were  now  travelling,  but  that  we 
had  at  length  reached  an  open  highway  and  were  close 
upon  a  party  of  Mexicans  was  evident  enough. 

With  feelings  the  most  joyful  we  now  spurred  our 
animals  briskly  forward.  The  sagacious  brutes  them- 
selves seemed  to  know  that  they  were  near  the  end  of 
their  long  and  tiresome  journey,  for  they  pricked  up 


262  A    PARTY    OF   MEXICANS. 

their  ears  and  willingly  responded  to  our  call  upon 
them  for  a  faster  pace.  Gradually  the  Narrows  be- 
came wider,  the  road  grew  smoother,  and  just  as  the 
sun  was  losing  itself  behind  the  western  mountains  we 
came  up  with  the  Mexicans,  encamped  at  the  mouth 
of  the  gorge  at  which  the  river  enters  the  Angosturas. 
As  Carlos  had  always  told  us,  the  river  at  this  point 
turns  immediately  north,  watering  a  narrow  and  fertile 
valley. 

Those  of  my  readers  who  have  ever  made  a  long 
sea  voyage  may  remember  how  eagerly,  at  the  ap- 
proach of  its  termination,  when  the  pilot  first  placed 
his  foot  upon  deck,  they  crowded  around  and  pressed 
him  with  idle  questions  innumerable :  so  with  us,  in 
coming  up  with  these  strangers.  Every  one  among 
us,  who  could  speak  a  word  of  Spanish,  earnestly 
showered  upon  the  ragged,  swarthy,  and  half-frighten- 
ed Mexicans  volumes  of  interrogations,  without  giving 
them  time  to  answer  one  of  them,  even  had  they  been 
able  or  willing.  The  fellows  were  just  returning,  with 
a  small  drove  of  broken-down  mules  and  donkeys,  from 
a  trading  trip  of  some  two  Vnonths'  duration  among  the 
Caygiias  and  Camanches.  They  frankly  told  us,  as 
soon  as  we  gave  them  time  to  breathe  and  collect  the 
little  scattering  sense  they  had,  that  they  had  seen  us 
early  in  the  morning,  and  that  such  of  their  compan- 
ions as  were  better  mounted  had  instantly  fled,  in  fear 
that  we  might  rob  them. 

In  answer  to  the  question  as  to  the  state  of  feeling  in 
New  Mexico  regarding  our  approach,  they  could  give 
us  no  information — upon  this  point  they  knew  nothing. 
They  had  been  absent  months  from  the  settlements, 
and  were  trading  with  the  Caygiias  when  the  unfortu- 
nate Hull  and  his  party  were  killed,  although  they  had 


INDIAN    SCALP-DANCE.  263 

no  part  or  lot  in  that  massacre.  They  also  told  us 
that  they  were  in  the  main  camp  of  the  Indians  when 
the  murdering  party  returned,  bringing  the  dead  bodies 
of  eleven  of  their  warriors,  among  whom  was  a  princi- 
pal chief.  The  ceremonies  and  performances  on  the 
occasion — the  wild  dances  of  the  warriors  around  the 
scalps  of  their  victims,  with  the  painful  penance  of  the 
women  in  token  of  their  grief  for  the  loss  of  the  war- 
riors of  the  tribe — were  described  by  our  new  acquaint- 
ances with  graphic  effect.  The  women  smote  and 
cut  their  breasts,  and  ran  naked  through  thorns  and 
prickly  pear-bushes,  to  show  the  intensity  of  their  af- 
fection. 

We  next  asked  the  Mexicans  the  distance  to  the  Palo 
Duro,  or  rather  to  the  spot  where  our  main  body  with 
the  wagons  were  encamped.  They  said  that  a  good 
mule  could  travel  the  distance  easily  in  four  days. 
Upon  our  telling  them  the  route  we  had  taken,  and  that 
we  had  been  thirteen  days  on  the  road,  they  expressed 
the  greatest  astonishment — said  it  was  wonderful  that 
we  had  been  able  to  cross  the  immense  chasms  and 
mountains  at  all.  They  said  that  if  we  had  taken  a 
course  directly  west,  on  starting,  we  should  have  avoid- 
ed the  deep  canons  altogether,  and  had  a  good,  smooth 
road  the  whole  distance.  In  addition,  they  informed 
us  that  Carlos  and  his  companion  had  passed  them  in 
the  morning,  completely  worn  down  by  hunger  and  fa- 
tigue. By  this  it  would  seem  that  the  runaway  guide 
had  taken  a  course  too  much  to  the  north,  and  fallen 
into  the  same  errors  which  had  caused  us  so  much 
trouble. 

As  regards  provisions,  the  Mexicans  were  almost  as 
badly  off  as  ourselves,  their  stock  being  nearly  exhaust- 
ed. They  gave  the  mess  to  which  I  was  attached, 


264  GUIDES    SENT    BACK. 

however,  a  small  quantity  of  barley  meal ;  just  enough 
for  a  taste,  and  that  was  all.  They  said  that  San  Mi- 
guel was  still  some  seventy  or  eighty  miles  distant,  but 
before  reaching  it  we  should  fall  in  with  large  herds  of 
sheep,  and  also  the  little  village  of  Anton  Chico.  At 
the  latter  place  we  could  procure  tortillas  and  atole ; 
the  former  a  species  of  thin  cake  in  universal  use 
throughout  Mexico,  and  the  latter  a  thin  mush,  made 
of  meal  and  water  or  cow's  or  goat's  milk,  and  also  a 
standing  dish  of  the  country.  Anything,  but  more  es- 
pecially any  preparation  of  meal  or  flour,  would  have 
been  as  welcome  to  us  as  manna  was  to  the  suffering  Is- 
raelites in  the  wilderness. 

The  next  morning,  three  of  the  Mexicans  were  hired 
to  go  back  to  our  companions,  one  of  our  Mexican  ser- 
vants, Matias,  disguised  completely,  so  that  he  might 
not  be  suspected  by  any  Indians  they  should  meet  on 
the  route,  accompanying  them.  They  were  provided 
with  the  best  and  least  jaded  mules  we  had,  and  took 
with  them  a  package  of  letters  to  General  McLeod. 
The  purport  of  those  letters  was,  that  we  had  arrived 
within  two  or  three  days'  ride  of  the  settlements,  and 
that  the  best  course  the  command  could  pursue  would 
be  to  march  immediately,  under  direction  of  the  guides, 
towards  San  Miguel.  The  Mexicans,  after  receiving 
full  instructions  from  Colonel  Cooke  and  Doctor  Bren- 
ham,  set  out  on  their  journey  across  the  immense  prai- 
rie, and,  as  we  afterward  learned,  were  less  than  four 
days  in  going  a  distance  which  had  occupied  us  thir- 
teen! 

Shortly  after  Matias  and  his  three  companions  had 
left  us  we  resumed  our  march  towards  San  Miguel. 
Not  a  morsel  of  food  did  we  have  during  the  day,  and 
at  night  we  encamped,  supperless,  on  the  banks  of  a 


A  SCENE  OF  FEASTING.  265 

small  creek  emptying  into  the  Rio  Mora.  On  this 
stream  the  Mexicans,  who  had  thus  far  accompanied 
us,  had  their  places  of  residence.  After  giving  us  in- 
structions for  our  route  towards  San  Miguel,  they  left 
us  on  the  ensuing  morning  for  their  homes  in  the  mount- 
ains. 

Before  we  set  out,  our  commander  despatched  four 
of  our  best-mounted  men  in  advance  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  provisions,  while  the  rest  of  us  followed  as 
fast  as  our  weary  animals  could  travel.  As  we  neared 
the  point  where  we  knew  that  food  could  be  procured 
in  abundance,  not  only  our  hunger,  but  our  impatience 
increased.  During  the  day,  I  was  fortunate  enough,  in 
company  with  the  madcap  Fitzgerald,  to  find  half  a  hat- 
ful of  wild  parsley,  and  this  we  swallowed  raw  with 
the  greatest  avidity. 

About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  four 
who  had  been  sent  forward  returned  with  the  joyful  in- 
telligence that  they  had  fallen  in  with  a  herd  of  no  less 
than  seventeen  thousand  sheep,  and  had  succeeded  in 
purchasing  a  sufficiency  for  the  whole  command. 
Again  we  put  spurs  to  our  horses,  and  a  ride  of  half 
an  hour  brought  us  up  with  the  shepherds  and  their 
charge,  and  to  a  fine  camping-ground  on  the  Rio  Gal- 
linas. 

Here  a  scene  of  feasting  ensued  which  beggars  de- 
scription. We  had  been  thirteen  days  upon  the  road, 
with  really  not  provisions  enough  for  three,  and  now 
that  there  was  an  abundance  our  starving  men  at  once 
abandoned  themselves  to  eating — perhaps  I  should  rath- 
er call  it  gormandizing  or-  stuffing.  No  less  than  twenty 
large,  fat  sheep  had  been  purchased  and  dressed,  and 
every  ramrod,  as  well  as  every  stick  that  could  be 
found,  was  soon  graced  with  smoking  ribs  and  shoul- 

VOL.  I.— Z 


266  THOUGHTS  OF  STARVATION. 

ders,  livers  and  hearts.  Many  made  themselves  sick 
by  overeating ;  but  an  attempt  to  restrain  the  appetites 
of  half-starved  men,  except  by  main  force,  would  be 
the  very  extreme  of  folly.  Had  the  food  been  anything 
but  mutton,  and  had  we  not  procured  an  ample  supply 
of  salt  from  the  Mexicans  to  season  it,  our  men  might 
have  died  of  the  surfeit. 

I  have  never  yet  seen  a  treatise  or  dissertation  upon 
starving  to  death — I  can  speak  feelingly  of  nearly  every 
stage  except  the  last.  For  the  first  two  days  through 
which  a  strong  and  healthy  man  is  doomed  to  exist 
upon  nothing,  his  sufferings  are,  perhaps,  more  acute 
than  in  the  remaining  stages — he  feels  an  inordinate, 
unappeasable  craving  at  the  stomach,  night  and  day. 
The  mind  runs  upon  beef,  bread,  and  other  substantials  ; 
but  still,  in  a  great  measure,  the  body  retains  its  strength. 
On  the  third  and  fourth  days,  but  especially  on  the 
fourth,  this  incessant  craving  gives  place  to  a  sinking 
and  weakness  of  the  stomach,  accompanied  by  nausea. 
The  unfortunate  sufferer  still  desires  food,  but  with  loss 
of  strength  he  loses  that  eager  craving  which  is  felt  in 
the  earlier  stages.  Should  he  chance  to  obtain  a  mor- 
sel or  two  of  food,  as  was  occasionally  the  case  with 
us,  he  swallows  it  with  a  wolfish  avidity ;  but  five 
minutes  afterward  his  sufferings  are  more  intense  than 
ever.  He  feels  as  if  he  had  swallowed  a  living  lobster, 
which  is  clawing  and  feeding  upon  the  very  foundation 
of  his  existence.  On  the  fifth  day  his  cheeks  suddenly 
appear  hollow  and  sunken,  his  body  attenuated,  his 
colour  an  ashy  pale,  and  his  eye  wild,  glassy,  cannibal- 
ish.  The  different  parts  of  the  system  now  war  with 
each  other.  The  stomach  calls  upon  the  legs  to  go 
with  it  in  quest  of  food :  the  legs,  from  very  weakness, 
refuse.  The  sixth  day  brings  with  it  increased  suffer- 


SHEPHERD  S    DOGS.  267 

ing,  although  the  pangs  of  hunger  are  lost  in  an  over- 
powering languor  and  sickness.  The  head  becomes 
giddy — the  ghosts  of  well-remembered  dinners  pass  in 
hideous  procession  through  the  mind.  The  seventh 
day  comes,  bringing  increased  lassitude  and  farther 
prostration  of  strength.  The  arms  hang  listlessly,  the 
legs  drag  heavily.  The  desire  for  food  is  still  left,  to  a 
degree,  but  it  must  be  brought,  not  sought.  The  miser- 
able remnant  of  life  which  still  hangs  to  the  sufferer  is 
a  burden  almost  too  grievous  to  be  borne  ;  yet  his  in- 
herent love  of  existence  induces  a  desire  still  to  pre- 
serve it,  if  it  can  be  saved  without  a  tax  upon  bodily 
exertion.  The  mind  wanders.  At  one  moment  he 
thinks  his  weary  limbs  cannot  sustain  him  a  mile — the 
next,  he  is  endowed  with  unnatural  strength,  and  if 
there  be  a  certainty  of  relief  before  him,  dashes  bravely 
and  strongly  onward,  wondering  whence  proceeds  this 
new  and  sudden  impulse. 

Farther  than  this  my  experience  runneth  not.  The 
reader  may  think  I  have  drawn  a  fancy  sketch — that  I 
have  coloured  the  picture  too  highly :  now,  while  I  sin- 
cerely trust  he  may  never  be  in  a  situation  to  test  its 
truth  from  actual  experience,  I  would  in  all  sober  seri- 
ousness say  to  him,  that  many  of  the  sensations  I  have 
just  described  I  have  myself  experienced,  and  so  did  the 
ninety-and-cight  persons  who  were  with  me  from  the 
time  when  we  first  entered  the  grand  prairie  until  we 
reached  the  flock  of  sheep,  to  which  more  pleasing  sub- 
ject I  will  now  return. 

There  were  very  few  men  with  the  immense  herd,  but 
in  their  stead  were  a  large  number  of  noble  dogs,  which 
appeared  to  be  peculiarly  gifted  with  the  faculty  of 
keeping  them  together.  There  was  no  running  about, 
no  barking  or  biting  in  their  system  of  tactics  ;  on  the 


CROOKS   AND   THEIE    USES. 

contrary,  they  were  continually  walking  up  and  down, 
like  faithful  sentinels,  on  the  outer  side  of  the  flock,  and 
should  any  sheep  chance  to  stray  from  his  fellows,  the 
dog  on  duty  at  that  particular  post  would  walk  gently 
up,  take  him  carefully  by  the  ear,  and  lead  him  back  to 
the  fold.  Not  the  least  fear  did  the  sheep  manifest  at 
the  approach  of  these  dogs  ;  and  there  was  no  occasion 
for  it.  They  appeared  to  me  to  be  of  mongrel  breed, 
somewhat  resembling,  perhaps,  a  cross  of  the  New- 
foundland or  St.  Bernard  species  with  the  larger  mas- 
tiff. They  possessed  mild,  frank,  and  open  countenan- 
ces, were  indefatigable  in  protecting  their  charge  from 
wolves,  and  from  what  I  could  learn  were  extremely 
sagacious. 

The  shepherds  had  crooks  in  their  hands,  instruments 
I  had  often  read  of  in  poets'  lays.  The  uses  to  which 
they  were  put  took  away  much  of  the  romance  I  had 
associated  with  crooks  and  gentle  shepherds.  One  of 
the  latter,  whenever  a  sheep  has  been  pointed  out  in  the 
flock,  either  to  be  killed  or  for  sale,  thrusts  the  long, 
hooked  stick  immediately  under  the  throat  of  the  victim, 
and  holds  it  fast  until  its  fellows  have  been  driven  past 
on  either  side.  The  sheep  is  then  secured  by  grappling 
its  wool  with  the  hand — an  operation,  from  first  to  last, 
partaking  more  of  the  practical  than  of  the  poetic. 

Now  that  we  had  found  provisions  in  plenty,  we  con- 
sidered the  dangers,  the  fatigues,  the  delays,  and  the 
vexations  of  the  march  as  over,  and  bright  were  the  an- 
ticipations of  the  future.  Every  face  was  animated 
with  joy,  every  heart  was  filled  with  gladness.  How 
different  would  have  been  our  feelings  had  we  known 
the  sufferings  and  privations,  the  indignities,  and  the 
cruel  maltreatment  we  were  yet  to  endure — the  terrible 
fate  that  was  awaiting  us  ! 


MORE    FEASTING.  260 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Farther  Feasting. — Party  sent  to  the  Settlements. — Author  accompanies  it. — 
Objects  of  sending  the  Party  ahead. — News  respecting  Howland  and  his 
Companions. — Encounter  with  Mexican  Muleteers. — Their  Fright  at  our 
Approach. — Farther  Information  in  relation  to  Howland. — Manuel  sent 
back. — Suspicious  Horsemen  seen. — Arrival  at  Anton  Chico. — Consterna- 
tion of  the  Inhabitants. — Scanty  Raiment  of  the  Women. — Confidence  re- 
stored.— Description  of  Anton  Chico. — Scantiness  of  the  Furniture. — A 
Dinner  under  Cover. — Start  for  San  Miguel. — Compelled  to  return. — A 
Night  at  Anton  Chico. — Bad  Colds,  with  worse  Coughs  to  match. — A  sus- 
picious Visiter. — Report  that  we  were  to  be  arrested. — Start  again  from 
Anton  Chico. — Valuables  concealed. — Arrival  at  Cuesta. — Commotion  in 
the  Village. — Our  Party  surrounded  by  Mexican  Troops. — Apparent  Frank- 
ness of  their  Leader,  Dimasio  Salezar. — Our  Arms  taken  from  us. — Con- 
sultation of  Salezar  and  his  Officers. — We  are  formed  in  Line  and  search- 
ed.— Mexican  Duplicity. — A  trying  Scene. — Prompt  Interference  of  Behil 
in  saving  our  Lives. — We  are  marched  towards  San  Miguel. — Kindness  of 
the  Women. — Don  Jesus,  and  his  Attempt  to  tie  us. — Description  of  our 
Guard.  —  Puertecito.  —  More  of  the  Women. — Arrival  at  San  Miguel. — 
Meanness  of  the  Alcalde  and  Kindness  of  the  Priest. — Our  first  Night  in 
Prison. 

THE  morning  after  our  feast  we  made  another  hearty 
meal  of  broiled  mutton,  with  atole  conleche,  a  mush  com- 
pounded of  flour  and  goats'  milk.  The  Mexican  shep- 
herds, finding  the  Texans  excellent  customers,  and  dis- 
posed to  pay  the  highest  prices  for  anything  in  the  shape 
of  bread,  had  sent  to  their  rancho,  or  farm,  during  the 
night,  a  distance  of  some  twelves  miles,  and  supplied 
themselves  abundantly  with  flour. 

It  was  now  determined,  by  our  principal  officers,  to 
send  two  men  forward  to  the  frontier  town  of  San  Mi- 
guel, for  the  purpose  of  conferring  with  the  authorities. 
W.  P.  Lewis,  captain  of  the  artillery  company,  and 
George  Van  Ness,  secretary  of  the  commissioners,  were 
detailed  for  this  service.  Both  could  speak  Spanish, 
Z2 


270  PARTY  BENT  IN  ADVANCE. 

and  the  former  enjoyed  in  every  way  the  confidence  of 
Colonel  Cooke,  who  had  often  befriended  him.  In  ad- 
dition to  verbal  instructions,  the  young  men  were  in- 
trusted with  letters  to  the  alcalde,  or  principal  officer  of 
San  Miguel,  and  both  the  instructions  and  letters  set 
forth  that  a  large  trading  party  of  Texans  was  now  ap- 
proaching, that  their  intentions  were  in  every  way  pa- 
cific, and  that  the  leaders  of  the  advance  party  were 
anxious  to  purchase  a  large  quantity  of  provisions  to  be 
sent  back  to  the  main  command.  Several  of  General 
Lamar's  proclamations  were  also  given  to  Mr.  Van 
Ness,  to  be  distributed  among  the  principal  citizens,  the 
purport  of  which  was  that  the  expedition  was  sent  for 
the  purpose  of  trading,  and  that  if  the  inhabitants  of 
New  Mexico  were  not  disposed  to  join,  peacefully,  the 
Texan  standard,  the  expedition  was  to  retire  imme- 
diately. These  proclamations  were  printed  in  both 
Spanish  and  English,  and  not  a  doubt  existed  that  the 
liberal  terms  offered  would  be  at  once  acceded  to  by  a 
population  living  within  the  limits  of  Texas,  and  who 
had  long  been  groaning  under  a  misrule  the  most  ty- 
rannical. 

At  the  request  of  Colonel  Cooke  and  Dr.  Brenham, 
two  of  the  principal  merchants,  Major  Howard,  and  Mr. 
Fitzgerald,  accompanied  Lewis  and  Van  Ness,  and  as  I 
was  in  great  haste  to  prosecute  my  journey  through 
Mexico,  I  gathered  all  my  effects,  packed  them  in  leather 
panniers  made  for  the  purpose,  placed  them  upon  my 
mule,  and  set  off  in  company.  This  was  on  the  14th 
of  September,  and  when  I  parted  with  my  friends  I  cer- 
tainly did  not  expect  to  see  them  for  the  first  time  in  the 
April  following,  at  the  city  of  Mexico  and  in  chains. 

The  shepherds  from  whom  we  had  purchased  our 
provisions  had  informed  us  that  the  country  was  in 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  MULETEERS.         271 

arms  against  us,  that  Rowland  and  his  party  were  pris- 
oners at  Santa  Fe,  and  that  an  American  named  Row- 
land, a  merchant  at  San  Miguel,  had  also  been  impris- 
oned and  his  goods  confiscated  by  order  of  the  governor, 
Armijo.  Yet  they  told  these  stories  in  so  many  differ- 
ent ways,  and  contradicted  themselves  so  often  in  the 
telling,  that  but  little  confidence  could  be  placed  in 
them. 

After  having  obtained  directions  as  to  our  course  to- 
wards the  camino  real,  or  principal  road,  for  our  camp 
on  the  Rio  Gallinas  was  some  distance  from  it,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  way,  a  Mexican  servant  we  had  hired 
at  San  Antonio,  named  Manuel,*  accompanying  us. 
After  reaching  the  main  road,  we  journeyed  briskly  for- 
ward until  nearly  two  o'clock.  An  abrupt  turn  now 
brought  us  suddenly  upon  two  Mexican  muleteers,  en- 
joying a  quiet  siesta,  while  their  mules  were  feeding 
close  by  them.  Our  appearance  frightened  them  ex- 
ceedingly, and  as  they  quickly  caught  their  mules  and 
commenced  putting  on  their  packs,  their  extreme  ner- 
vousness was  plainly  visible.  The  colour  entirely  left 
the  swarthy  face  of  one  of  these  fellows,  who,  for  once, 
certainly  had  the  appearance  of  a  white  man ;  and  as 
his  trembling  hands  were  flying  about  from  one  part  of 
his  mule  to  another,  fastening  the  packs,  the  movements 
could  not  have  been  more  rapid  had  he  been  executing 
the  Battle  of  Prague  or  one  of  Strauss's  quickest  and 
most  difficult  waltzes  on  a  piano.  At  first  he  could  not 
answer  a  question  coherently;  but  as  he  gradually  found 
that  our  intentions  were  not  to  eat  him  up  alive,  the  col- 

*  Manuel  was  shot,  a  short  time  afterward,  in  mere  wantonness,  by  a 
drummer  in  Armijo's  redoubtable  army.  His  leading  characteristics  were 
great  good-nature,  extreme  idleness,  and  a  proneness  to  telling  the  most  out- 
rageous falsehoods — the  two  latter  very  common  failings  with  his  country- 
men, 


372  WORD    SENT    BACK. 

our  returned  to  his  cheeks,  his  tongue  became  loosened, 
and  he  was  able  to  give  us  satisfactory  answers. 

The  fellow  said  that  our  approach  was  well  known 
to  the  inhabitants,  and  that  the  greatest  stir  and  excite- 
ment existed  in  consequence  of  Armijo's  informing 
them  that  our  intentions  were  to  burn,  slay,  and  destroy 
as  we  went.  He  corroborated  the  report  that  Row- 
land* had  been  arrested  for  his  supposed  connexion 
with  the  expedition,  as  well  as  the  story  that  Rowland, 
Baker,  and  Rosenbury  were  prisoners  at  Santa  Fe,  al- 
though he  asserted  that  they  had  the  liberty  of  the  town. 
After  telling  us  that  the  village  of  Anton  Chico  was 
some  two  or  three  miles  to  our  left,  and  a  little  off  the 
main  road  to  San  Miguel,  the  muleteer  departed,  appa- 
rently well  satisfied  that  we  had  let  him  off  without 
taking  his  scalp. 

It  was  now  deemed  advisable  to  send  word  back  to 
our  friends  on  the  Gallinas  of  what  we  had  heard,  and 
Manuel  was  accordingly  despatched  with  a  note  de- 
tailing everything.  Mr.  Van  Ness  also  sent  back  a 
number  of  letters  of  introduction  to  different  individuals, 
with  which  he  had  been  furnished,  and  other  papers, 
fearing  that  he  might  be  arrested,  and  that  blame  might 
fall  upon  innocent  persons  if  he  should  be  searched  and 
the  letters  found  upon  his  person.  After  this  we  turn- 
ed off  in  the  direction  of  Anton  Chico. 

A  ride  of  half  an  hour  brought  us  to  a  small  and 
miserable  hovel  upon  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Pecos.  This 
is  a  beautiful,  swift-running  stream  of  fresh  water,  rising 
in  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Santa  Fe,  and  after 

*  Thomas  Rowland,  a  brother  of  John  Rowland.  The  name  of  the  latter 
had  appeared  in  some  of  the  Texan  papers  as  a  commissioner  in  connexion 
with  Dryden,  both  of  whom  were  residents  of  New  Mexico.  The  publica- 
tion of  their  names,  as  commissioners  friendly  to  the  interests  of  the  Teiaus, 
was  made  withouf  their  knowledge  or  consent. 


APPROACH    TO    ANTON    CHICO.  273 

fertilizing  a  succession  of  narrow  but  rich  valleys,  is 
supposed  finally  to  empty  into  the  Puercos,  a  tributary 
of  the  Rio  Grande.  We  rode  up  to  the  low  and  nar- 
row door  of  the  hovel,  at  which  stood  an  old,  gray- 
haired  man  and  two  or  three  women,  who  were  all 
evidently  intimidated  at  the  sight  of  strangers.  As  this 
secluded  spot  is  entirely  off  the  trail  of  the  St.  Louis 
traders,  these  half-civilized  people  had  probably  never 
before  seen  other  than  their  own  mixed  race :  as  for 
ourselves,  it  was  the  first  human  habitation  having  any 
pretensions  to  civilization  we  had  seen  for  months,  and 
was  certainly  a  welcome  object  to  all.  We  did  not 
dismount ;  but,  while  inquiring  for  the  most  direct  route 
to  Anton  Chico,  one  of  the  women  brought  us  some 
warm  tortillas  from  the  interior  of  the  hovel,  a  little 
wooden  bowl  of  miel — a  species  of  molasses  made  from 
the  stalk  of  the  common  Indian  corn — and  three  or  four 
large  slices  of  goats'  milk  cheese.  These,  to  us  delica- 
cies, they  brought  without  money  and  without  price — 
an  earnest  of  the  universal  kindness  and  hospitality  of 
the  women  of  New  Mexico.  We  threw  some  silver 
into  their  hands,  wheeled  our  horses  amid  a  shower  of 
muchas  gracias  and  adios,  caballeros,*  and  left  them. 

A  ride  of  another  half  hour  brought  us  in  sight  of 
Anton  Chico,  a  village  seated  upon  a  little  hill  over- 
looking the  Pecos,  and  probably  containing  some  two 
or  three  hundred  inhabitants.  As  we  caught  a  first 
glimpse  of  the  village,  a  suspicious,  piratical-seeming 
Mexican,  armed  with  a  double-barrelled  gun,  broad- 
sword, and  lance,  and  splendidly  mounted  upon  a  dash- 
ing black  horse,  passed  within  ten  yards  of  us.  Al- 
though he  did  not  even  nod  at  our  approach,  he  still 
eyed  us  closely.  Had  he  not  been  confident  that  his 

*  Many  thanks  ;  farewell,  gentlemen ;  God  be  with  you. 


274  CONSTERNATION    OF    THE    INHABITANTS. 

horse  could  easily  outrun  our  jaded  animals,  I  doubt 
whether  he  would  have  come  within  gunshot  of  us.  At 
a  distance,  on  the  rising  slope  of  a  hill,  another  man, 
similarly  armed  and  mounted,  was  seen ;  and  he,  too, 
was  evidently  watching  our  movements. 

As  we  approached  the  little  village,  all  was  excite- 
ment and  commotion.  Women  and  children  were  seen 
running  in  every  direction,  climbing  the  low  houses  and 
hiding  behind  the  mud  fences  and  walls.  A  large  horse- 
mill,  at  which  the  inhabitants  were  grinding  corn-stalks 
for  the  manufacture  of  miel,  was  deserted  instantly,  and 
everything  plainly  denoted  that  our  sudden  appearance 
had  created  the  greatest  consternation.  We  rode  stead- 
ily up  to  the  first  door,  as  though  not  noticing  that  we 
had  caused  the  least  alarm,  and  asked  a  man  of  more 
hardihood  than  the  rest,  who  had  the  courage  to  show 
his  face,  although  not  enough  to  conceal  his  trepidation, 
whether  we  could  purchase  some  fodder  for  our  ani- 
mals and  bread  for  ourselves.  This  question,  being  in 
Spanish,  was  understood  by  several  of  the  frightened 
inhabitants,  who  were  peering  at  us  through  the  chinks 
of  the  surrounding  doors,  and  who,  finding  that  we  did 
not  ask  them  to  surrender  their  lives  and  property  at 
discretion,  gradually  gained  colour  and  confidence,  and 
began  slowly  to  issue  from  their  hiding-places.  In 
three  minutes  we  were  surrounded  by  half  a  hundred 
men,  women,  and  children,  some  inviting  us  this  way, 
others  that,  and  all  apparently  anxious  to  serve  us, 
either  from  love  of  money  or  love  of  life,  for  many,  no 
doubt,  were  impressed  with  the  idea  that  we  had  come 
on  purpose  to  do  murder.  The  women  and  girls  were 
very  slightly  clad,  and  many  of  the  children  were  na- 
ked, while  the  men  were  so  concealed  in  their  coarse 
blankets  that  we  really  could  not  tell  what  their  dress 


DESCRIPTION    OF    ANTON    CHICO.  275 

might  be  underneath,  or  whether  they  had  any.  On 
the  faces  of  many  of  the  women  and  grown-up  girls 
we  noticed  large,  deep-red  spots,  apparently  marks 
from  their  childhood,  and  disfiguring  them  greatly.  I 
afterward  ascertained  that  these  marks  were  not  natu- 
ral, as  my  readers  will  learn  in  the  progress  of  the  nar- 
rative. 

The  little  village  of  Anton  Chico  is  built  on  a  square, 
the  houses  fronting  on  the  inner  side,  although  there  are 
entrances,  protected  by  strong  doors,  on  the  outer. 
The  houses  are  of  one  story  only,  built  of  adobes,  a 
species  of  large,  sun-dried  bricks,  while  the  tops  are 
flat.  They  have  neither  windows  nor  floors,  and  in 
point  of  comfort  and  convenience  are  only  one  degree 
removed  from  the  rudest  wigwam  of  the  Indian.  In 
case  of  attack  from  the  savages,  continually  hovering 
and  committing  depredations  upon  the  frontiers  of  New 
Mexico,  these  little  hamlets  serve  as  forts,  the  Indians 
rarely  pursuing  the  inhabitants  farther  than  their  outer 
walls,  as  they  carry  on  their  warfare  entirely  on  horse- 
back. This  description  of  Anton  Chico  will  answer 
for  a  majority  of  the  ranches  and  smaller  towns  of  New 
Mexico — their  buildings  being  all  constructed  of  the 
same  materials  and  in  the  same  manner. 

We  entered  the  largest  house  in  the  place.  It  had 
but  two  rooms,  the  earthen  floor  and  scanty  furni- 
ture of  which  gave  them  a  prison-like  and  desolate  ap- 
pearance. Not  a  chair  or  table,  knife  or  fork,  did  the 
occupants  possess,  and  we  were  given  to  understand 
that  we  were  in  the  house  of  the  "  first  family"  of  An- 
ton Chico.  We  called  for  something  to  eat,  suggesting 
a  somewhat  varied  "  bill  of  fare"  to  be  spread  before 
us,  for  which  we  manifested  our  readiness  to  pay  the 
highest  prices  :  our  dinner  consisted — substantiate  and 


276  A    NIGHT    UNDER    COVEK. 

extras  all  enumerated — of  tortillas,  boiled  eggs,  and 
miel,  the  latter  somewhat  resembling  molasses  and  wa- 
ter, the  water  predominating.  In  the  mean  while,  our 
animals  outside  were  faring  infinitely  better  than  our- 
selves, for  they  had  an  ample  supply  of  corn  and  fod- 
der— good,  legitimate  food  for  them,  to  which  they  did 
most  ample  justice. 

The  sun  was  about  setting  by  the  time  we  had  fin- 
ished our  meal ;  yet  we  determined  upon  travelling 
some  eight  or  ten  miles  farther  towards  San  Miguel  that 
evening.  After  paying  the  master  of  the  house  the 
most  exorbitant  prices  for  every  article  we  had  pro- 
cured, and  after  his  daughters  had  presented  each  of  us 
with  a  bundle  of  cigarritos*  of  their  own  manufacture, 
we  saddled  and  mounted  our  horses,  and  again  proceed- 
ed for  San  Miguel. 

Immediately  on  leaving  Anton  Chico  we  were  com- 
pelled to  climb  a  high,  steep,  and  rocky  hill  or  mount- 
ain, and  on  reaching  its  summit,  by  which  time  dark- 
ness had  overtaken  us,  we  found  ourselves  without  a 
road,  and  completely  lost  in  a  grove  of  stunted  pines  and 
cedars.  To  advance  was  impossible,  and  we  accord- 
ingly retraced  our  steps  to  the  village  we  had  left  but 
a  short  time  previous.  Once  more  we  secured  our  an- 
imals to  a  hedge-fence,  near  the  house  where  we  had 
procured  our  homely  dinner,  and  after  carrying  our 
saddles,  bridles,  and  other  equipments  to  a  corner  of  the 
room  which  had  been  appropriated  to  our  use  by  the 
master,  we  rolled  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets  with  the 
vain  hope,  as  it  was  the  first  night  we  had  passed  under 
cover  for  months,  of  enjoying  a  refreshing  sleep.  But  no 
such  good  luck  was  in  store  for  us :  there  was  a  close- 

*  Small  cigars,  in  New  Mexico  made  of  punche,  a  species  of  tobacco, 
covered  with  corn-husks  or  shucks. 


A  SUSPICIOUS    VISITEE.  277 

ness  in  the  atmosphere  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers,  the  room  was  occupied  by  some  thirty  men, 
women,  and  children,  exclusive  of  our  own  party,  and 
when  all  were  provided  with  sleeping  room  there  was 
scarcely  space  enough  on  the  hard  earthen  floor  for  a 
hat.  The  beds  of  our  neighbours  were  nothing  but 
sheepskins  thrown  upon  the  floor — their  clothing  a  blan- 
ket, which  they  spread  over  themselves  after  lying 
down. 

Every  member  of  the  family,  which  consisted  of  a 
grandfather  and  grandmother  with  their  children  and 
their  children's  children,  seemed  to  be  badly  affected  by 
a  cold,  or  worse — for  the  younger  branches  were  all 
evidently  afflicted  with  the  worst  form  of  the  whooping- 
cough.  The  grown  people  appeared  to  have  the  most 
distressing  coughs  to  match  their  colds,  while  the  chil- 
dren seemed  at  times  to  be  in  perfect  convulsions.  Oc- 
casionally the  distressing  sounds  would  all  die  away ; 
anon,  one  of  the  children  would  begin  coughing  fright- 
fully, another  would  join  in  the  discordant  din,  and  im- 
mediately the  whole  family  were  in  full  chorus — and 
thus  they  barked  away  the  hours. 

Notwithstanding  the  horrible  uproar,  however,  I  final- 
ly fell  into  a  half  sleep.  About  one  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing I  was  awakened  by  some  disturbance  among  our 
animals,  and  in  going  out  to  ascertain  the  cause,  I  was 
asked  by  a  Mexican  if  I  was  the  captain  of  the  party. 
As  this  was  about  all  I  could  at  that  time  understand,  I 
called  Lewis,  in  the  belief  that  the  fellow  had  something 
important  to  communicate,  and  in  this  I  was  not  deceiv- 
ed. He  said  that  we  were  all  to  be  taken  prisoners  on 
the  next  day  by  a  party  who  were  then  mustering  in 
the  valley,  near  Cuesta.  He  farther  stated  that  the  in- 
habitants of  Anton  Chico  would  fall  upon  us  were  they 

VOL.  I.— A  A 


278  EXCITEMENT   AMONG   THE    INHABITANTS. 

not  fearful  of  our  arms.  To  wind  up,  he  informed  us 
that  we  should  most  certainly  be  shot,  and  for  this  pe- 
culiarly pleasant  news  he  asked  us  one  dollar !  Had 
his  information  extended  no  farther  than  that  we  were 
to  be  arrested,  and  had  this  statement  been  gratuitous, 
we  might  have  paid  some  heed  to  his  story ;  as  it  was, 
it  sounded  very  much  as  though  he  had  made  up  what 
he  considered  a  dollar's  worth  of  bad  tidings,  and  thought 
us  simple  enough  to  pay  him  for  his  trouble.  Enter- 
taining this  belief,  of  course  we  returned  to  our  blankets 
without  giving  the  fellow  even  so  much  as  the  sixteenth 
of  what  he  charged  ;  yet  I  could  not  but  think  that  there 
might  be  some  truth  in  his  story. 

We  were  up  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  and 
after  swallowing  a  bowl  of  atole,  sweetened  with  a  little 
miel,  once  more  took  the  road  for  San  Miguel.  Al- 
though the  male  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  village 
we  had  just  left  had  every  outward  appearance  of 
friendship,  there  was  still  a  something  suspicious  in  their 
movements  which  convinced  us  that  they  would  have 
acted  otherwise  had  they  not  been  restrained  by  fear. 
To  show  that  they  were  not  all  honest,  some  one  of 
them  stole  a  saddle-blanket  from  me.  It  was  of  little 
value,  however,  and  I  made  no  mention  of  the  circum- 
stance to  the  man  in  whose  house  we  had  passed  the 
night. 

We  must  have  been  blind,  indeed,  to  the  evidences 
around  us,  not  to  see  that  the  country  was  in  a  state  of 
excitement  occasioned  by  the  approach  of  the  Texans 
— the  suspicious  men  who  had  crossed  our  route  the 
evening  before,  the  earnestness  with  which  they  eyed 
our  movements,  and  then  the  arrest  of  Rowland  and  his 
companions,  all  tended  to  impress  us  with  the  belief 
that  we  should  at  least  be  questioned  closely  as  to  our 


SECRETING    VALUABLES.  279 

business,  and  the  objects  which  had  induced  us  to  enter 
the  country,  if  not  detained,  in  case  Armijo  should  op- 
pose the  advance  of  the  Texans.  But  we  never  thought 
of  being  disarmed  or  imprisoned.  I  had  no  inconsider- 
able sum  of  money  in  gold,  confined  about  my  body  in 
a  linen  belt :  this  I  thought  it  more  prudent  to  conceal 
under  the  buttons  which  graced  the  sides  of  my  riding 
pantaloons.  There  was  not  room  for  all  the  money 
under  the  buttons — what  was  left  I  still  retained  in  the 
belt,  which  I  now  placed  in  one  of  my  pockets.  A  valu- 
able breastpin  I  concealed  under  one  of  my  waistband 
buttons,  two  or  three  articles  of  jewelry  less  costly  I 
hid  under  the  folds  of  my  shirt  bosom,  and  a  gold  watch 
and  chain  I  secreted  as  safely  as  was  possible.  In  a 
country  filled,  as  I  knew  this  to  be,  with  thieves  and 
cut-throats  of  the  worst  description,  I  was  anxious  to 
conceal  the  fact  entirely  that  I  had  valuable  property  of 
any  kind  with  me. 

On  reaching  the  summit  of  the  steep  hill  overlooking 
Anton  Chico,  and  emerging  from  the  cedars  in  which 
we  were  lost  the  evening  before,  we  found  a  level  table- 
land spread  out  before  us,  of  rare  beauty.  In  the  dis- 
tance, to  the  north,  that  spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  at 
the  foot  of  which  lies  the  mud-built  city  of  Santa  Fe, 
was  now  plainly  visible. 

We  had  travelled  but  two  or  three  miles,  after  reach- 
ing the  table-land,  before  a  Mexican,  who  had  seen  us 
approaching  from  a  small  house  some  little  distance 
from  the  roadside,  came  out  to  meet  us.  He  gratui- 
tously informed  us,  without  our  asking  the  question,  that 
the  nearest  route  to  San  Miguel  would  take  us  directly 
through  the  little  village  of  Cuesta,  and  took  no  incon- 
siderable pains  to  give  such  directions  as  would  pre- 
clude the  possibility  of  our  missing  the  road.  At  the 


SALEZAR    INTRODUCED. 

time,  we  considered  this  an  act  of  kindness  on  his  part ; 
but  after  circumstances  made  it  quite  certain  that  he 
had  been  employed  to  draw  us  into  a  snare  already  set 
for  our  apprehension. 

After  thanking  the  Mexican  for  his  information,  we 
once  more  proceeded  towards  San  Miguel.  About 
noon  we  arrived  at  the  brow  of  a  high,  steep,  and  rocky 
hill,  overlooking  a  narrow  and  fertile  valley  through 
which  the  Pecos  was  flowing.  Immediately  below  us 
was  a  small  collection  of  houses  ;  and  some  distance  up 
the  stream,  but  in  plain  sight,  was  the  little  village  of 
Cuesta.  The  road  leading  into  the  valley  ran  directly 
down  the  rocky  sides  of  the  hill,  and  was  so  rough  and 
broken  that  we  were  compelled  to  dismount,  and  lead 
or  drive  our  animals.  As  we  slowly  descended,  we 
could  plainly  see  that  our  approach  had  been  discover- 
ed, for  there  was  commotion  in  all  parts  of  the  beautiful 
valley.  Several  horsemen  were  seen  emerging  from 
Cuesta,  and  dashing,  at  full  speed,  towards  the  spot 
where  we  must  first  strike  the  level  land.  A  point  of 
the  hill  now  concealed  them  from  our  sight,  and  when 
we  finally  reached  the  bottom  not  a  single  human  being 
was  visible  in  any  direction. 

Van  Ness,  Lewis,  and  myself  arrived  in  the  valley 
some  ten  minutes  before  Howard  and  Fitzgerald. 
While  our  eyes  were  turned  towards  the  hillside,  wait- 
ing their  approach,  we  were  suddenly  surrounded  by 
more  than  a  hundred  roughly-dressed  but  well-mounted 
soldiers,  armed  with  lances,  swords,  bows  and  arrows, 
and  miserable  escopetas,  or  oldfashioned  carbines.  The 
leader  of  this  band,  whom  I  will  at  once  introduce  as 
the  notorious  Dimasio  Salezar,  instantly  rode  up,  and 
addressed  us  as  amigos,  or  friends,  with  the  greatest  ap- 
parent cordiality.  He  asked  us  who  we  were,  and 


HIS    APPARENT    FRANKNESS.  2&1 

whether  we  were  not  from  Texas.  Lewis  at  once  in- 
formed him  that  we  were,  and  that  we  had  been  detach- 
ed from  the  main  body,  then  some  thirty  miles  distant 
on  the  Gallinas,  for  the  purpose  of  consulting  with  the 
authorities,  either  at  San  Miguel  or  Santa  Fe,  and  that 
he  was  anxious  to  see  the  governor.  To  this  Salezar 
bowed,  as  much  as  to  say  that  all  was  right,  and  we 
fairly  congratulated  ourselves  upon  our  reception. 
There  was  a  frankness,  a  plausibility  about  the  mis- 
creant that  completely  concealed  his  real  intentions. 

On  the  arrival  of  Howard  and  Fitzgerald  we  re- 
mounted our  horses,  and,  in  company  with  our  new  ac- 
quaintances, rode  to  the  first  house  that  presented  itself. 
Here  Salezar  called  a  halt,  and  after  his  men  had  com- 
pletely surrounded  us  on  every  side,  as  if  to  hear  any 
conversation  that  might  ensue,  but  with  no  other  inten- 
tions, their  leader  remarked,  with  the  utmost  blandness, 
that  we  must  be  aware  we  could  not  enter  their  territo- 
ry with  arms  in  our  hands — that  it  was  contrary  to  the 
laws  and  usages  of  civilized  nations — and  that  he  hoped 
we  would  have  no  objections  to  placing  our  rifles  and 
pistols  in  his  keeping,  each  labelled  so  that  its  owner 
might  know  it  again,  until  the  business  we  had  with  the 
authorities  should  be  arranged.  He  appeared  deeply  to 
regret  that  his  duty  compelled  him  to  make  this  request 
of  persons  evidently  gentlemen,  and  whose  objects,  he 
doubted  not,  were  of  the  most  friendly  nature ;  he  had 
been  ordered  by  his  superiors,  he  said,  to  request  us  to 
deliver  up  our  arms,  and  sincerely  hoped  we  would  ex- 
cuse him. 

Finding  themselves  surrounded  by  a  force  at  least 
twenty  times  their  number,  without  the  remotest  chance 
to  escape  by  flight  even  if  they  felt  disposed,  and  com- 
pletely imposed  upon  by  the  apparent  fairness  and  open- 
A  A2 


282  INDUCED   TO   GIVE    UP    OUR   ARMS. 

ness  of  Salezar's  conduct,  my  companions  gave  up  their 
arms.  It  was  now  necessary  for  me  to  inform  Salezar 
as  to  my  position  and  intentions.  Through  Van  Ness 
I  told  him  that  I  was  a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  that 
I  was  merely  a  traveller,  on  a  journey  through  the  in- 
terior of  Mexico,  and  that  I  had  a  passport  from  the 
Mexican  consul  at  New-Orleans,  which  I  took  from  my 
pocket  and  handed  him.  Not  a  word  could  the  fellow 
read,  but,  placing  the  document  in  the  hands  of  his  sec- 
ond in  command,  Don  Jesus,*  who  only  wanted  natu- 
ral talents  to  make  him  even  a  greater  villain  than  his 
master,  Salezar  told  him  to  examine  it.  After  reading 
the  passport  from  first  to  last,  the  worthy  lieutenant 
and  secretary  returned  it  to  his  captain,  who  remarked 
that  he  presumed  all  was  right,  but  he  was  reluctantly 
compelled  to  demand  my  arms  and  retain  them  until  I 
had  seen  the  governor.  With  even  more  reluctance  I 
gave  my  rifle  and  pistols  into  the  possession  of  the  mis- 
creant, although  my  companions  openly  expressed  their 
confidence  that  they  would  be  returned  in  good  faith. 
Now  that  he  had  our  weapons  in  his  power,  I  thought 
I  could  discover  a  gleam  of  satisfaction  lighting  up  Sa- 
lezar's countenance,  yet  his  feelings  did  not  openly  be- 
tray him.  It  was  afterward  evident  enough  that  he 
had  used  dissimulation,  and  adopted  a  courteous  tone 
foreign  to  his  nature — even  with  his  myrmidons  around 
him,  the  cowardly  man  did  not  dare  peremptorily  to 
demand  our  rifles  and  pistols. 

*  I  have  given  this  name  the  Spanish  spelling,  although  it  is  pronounced 
Hesoos.  Among  the  women  of  both  Mexico  and  Spain  Jesusa  is  a  very  com- 
mon, and  considered  a  very  pretty  name.  By  the  same  rule  of  pronuncia- 
tion it  is  called  Hesoosa.  As  is  remarked  above,  I  have  given  these  names, 
singular  and  irreverent  as  they  may  appear  to  an  American,  their  Spanish 
orthography.  Were  a  Mexican  to  see  Hesoos  in  print  he  would  not  know  it, 
even  were  it  his  own  name. 


THE    PRISONERS   SEARCHED.  283 

Having  distributed  all  our  weapons  among  his  prin- 
cipal men,  Salezar  next  drew  his  officers  into  the  little 
house  in  front  of  which  the  scene  had  taken  place.  In 
the  mean  time  we  were  left  outside,  under  no  apparent 
restraint.  I  led  my  horse,  the  faithful  old  "  Jim  the 
Butcher,"  as  he  was  called,  to  an  irrigating  canal  close 
by,  and  after  allowing  him  to  drink  his  fill  of  the  cool 
and  excellent  water,  walked  back  with  him  to  my  pack- 
mule,  opened  one  of  the  leathern  panniers,  and  com- 
menced feeding  him  on  bread  which  I  had  purchased 
that  morning  at  Anton  Chico.  While  at  that  village, 
so  great  was  my  craving  for  bread  after  being  without 
it  for  months,  I  had  purchased  all  that  was  offered  for 
sale,  really  thinking  that  I  should  eat  it  all,  although  I 
had  at  least  a  month's  supply.  A  moment's  reflec- 
tion now  taught  me  that  I  was  in  a  country  where 
I  could  have  it  fresh  every  day,  and  as  my  appetite  by 
this  time  was  somewhat  appeased,  I  began  to  feed  my 
horse  upon  the  stores  I  had  provided  for  my  own  use. 
A  crowd  of  men  and  half-naked  women  and  girls  press- 
ed around  me,  apparently  astonished  that  I  should  give 
my  horse  what  was  really  one  of  their  greatest  luxu- 
ries, and  it  was  while  I  was  thus  engaged  that  Salezar 
and  his  officers  stepped  from  the  house  and  a  second 
time  approached  us. 

His  first  request  was  that  we  should  form  in  a  line. 
He  then  said  he  was  obliged  to  take  from  us  any  pa- 
pers or  articles  we  might  have  about  our  persons — such 
were  his  orders  from  the  governor.  There  was  even 
an  approach  to  delicacy  in  this  command,  for  the  scoun- 
drel had  not  as  yet  shown  his  real  colours  ;  and  as  we 
were  weaponless,  and  completely  in  his  power,  we  sub- 
mitted to  the  degrading  operation  of  having  our  pockets 
turned  inside  out  and  our  persons  searched  by  a  com- 


284  ESCAPE   OF   THE    GOLD. 

mittee  of  his  officers.  During  this  process,  very  fortu- 
nately for  me,  neither  my  gold  pieces  nor  my  other 
valuables  were  discovered ;  but  all  my  papers,  note- 
book, penknife,  with  such  other  articles  as  I  happened 
to  have  hi  my  pockets,  were  taken  from  me.  At  one 
time,  one  of  the  fellows  had  his  hands  upon  the  end  of 
the  old  linen  belt  in  which  I  had  carried  my  gold,  and 
which  still  contained  nearly  a  hundred  dollars  ;  its  rag- 
ged appearance  alone  saved  it,  for,  thinking  it  but  a 
worthless  piece  of  worn-out  cloth,  he  permitted  me  to 
retain  it  in  my  possession.  Had  Salezar  got  hold  of 
this  belt  he  would  at  once  have  seen  the  places  from 
which  I  had  but  recently  cut  a  number  of  doubloons,  as 
well  as  found  such  of  the  gold  as  was  still  left ;  and  so 
great  was  the  scoundrel's  avarice  that  I  believe  he 
would  have  boiled  me  could  he  have  found  no  other 
means  to  extract  my  treasures. 

Up  to  this  time,  the  conduct  of  Salezar,  with  the  ar- 
guments he  used  to  sustain  him  in  arresting  us  and  ta- 
king our  papers  and  other  articles,  was  to  a  certain  de- 
gree honourable,  and  it  was  impossible  to  suspect  the 
deep  treachery  and  atrocious  designs  lying  under  an 
exterior  so  apparently  fair ;  we  were  now  to  read  a 
new  chapter  in  his  character,  one  that  broke  upon  us 
with  all  that  suddenness  and  startling  effect  which  fic- 
tion-writers strive  to  attain  in  their  scenes  of  most  thrill- 
ing, blood-freezing  horror. 

Our  papers  and  effects  had  been  tied  hi  a  handker- 
chief and  removed,  and  we  were  waiting  the  next  move- 
ment of  our  captors  with  some  little  impatience,  when 
Salezar  suddenly  ordered  twelve  of  his  men,  all  armed 
with  old  muskets  or  carbines,  to  march  up  in  front  of 
us.  The  movement  appeared  strange,  more  particular- 
ly when  we  noticed  that  the  men,  now  paraded  directly 


DOOM   PRONOUNCED.  285 

before  us  and  within  three  yards,  were  pale,  and  fairly 
trembling  as  with  fright ;  but  still  we  could  not  suspect 
the  horrible  design  of  their  leader.  Our  suspense  was 
of  short  duration,  however ;  for  no  sooner  had  he  ar- 
ranged the  twelve  men  in  front  of  us  than  it  became  but 
too  evident  his  intentions  were  to  shoot  us  on  the  spot ! 
Fitzgerald  was  the  first  to  speak.  The  brave  but  ec- 
centric Irishman  had  seen  much  service  in  Spain,  un- 
derstood not  only  the  language,  but  the  treacherous  and 
suspicious  character  of  the  Mexicans,  and  now  fathom- 
ed the  intentions  of  Salezar.  Prefacing  his  short  speech 
with  a  strong  oath,  the  excited  man,  with  fists  clenched, 
and  a  rich  brogue,  exclaimed,  "  They're  going  to  shoot 
us,  boys  ;  let's  pitch  into  'em  arid  die  in  hot  blood ;  it's 
much  asier !"  At  the  same  moment  I  cast  my  eyes 
around,  and  noticed  that  the  crowd  in  the  rear  were 
falling  back  in  two  straight  lines,  as  if  to  escape  the 
balls  in  their  passage,  while  the  women  and  girls  were 
wringing  their  hands  and  flying  from  point  to  point,  ap- 
parently in  deep  despair. 

That  we  were  to  be  immediately  shot  was  now  ter- 
ribly manifest.  We  exchanged  glances  with  each  oth- 
er, and  those  glances  plainly  told  that  each  of  my  com- 
panions, in  obedience  to  Fitzgerald's  emphatic  call,  was 
prepared  to  rush  upon  the  cowardly  and  faithless  mis- 
creants the  moment  they  were  in  the  act  of  levelling  their 
guns,  to  wrest  their  weapons  from  them,  and  then  to  sell 
his  life  at  as  dear  a  rate  as  possible.  I  will  give  Lewis 
vhe  credit  of  acting,  in  that  moment  of  extreme  peril,  as 
became  a  man.  My  station  happened  to  be  on  the  ex- 
treme left  of  my  companions,  the  position  bringing  me 
within  a  yard  of  a  young  Mexican  whom  I  afterward 
ascertained  to  be  a  son  of  the  Alcalde  of  San  Miguel. 
Tied  loosely  around  his  waist  was  a  coarse  cotton  hand- 


286  THE    CRISIS. 

kerchief,  in  which  he  had  stuck  two  of  Colt's  i  evolving 
pistols  taken  from  one  of  my  friends.  These  I  instantly 
determined  to  seize  upon  in  the  melee,  while  each  of  my 
companions  had  singled  out  his  man  to  spring  upon  at 
the  signal. 

A  man  lives  almost  an  age  in  a  single  moment  of  im- 
minent danger — his  thoughts  crowd  upon  each  other 
with  such  lightning  rapidity,  that  his  past  life,  its  prom- 
ises and  hopes,  are  reviewed  at  a  glance.  I  thought 
of  home,  relations,  friends,  in  the  fleeting  moment  which 
passed  after  Salezar  had  manifested  his  inhuman  inten- 
tions ;  but  the  thoughts  that  came  uppermost  with  all  of 
us  were  of  deep  regret  that  we  had  given  up  our  arms 
to  such  cowardly  assassins,  mingled  with  the  bitter  con- 
sciousness that  we  were  to  be  shot  down  like  dogs, 
without  a  possible  chance  that  our  friends  could  ever 
know  the  place  or  manner  of  our  death.  But  our 
thoughts  were  suddenly  checked  by  a  motion  from  Sa- 
lezar, as  if  to  give  the  word  of  command  for  our  execu- 
tion. I  cast  hurried  glances  at  Fitzgerald  and  my  com- 
rades for  a  signal  to  make  a  dash ;  but  at  this  junc- 
ture an  altercation  ensued  between  Dimasio  and  a  Mex- 
ican named  Vigil.  Not  a  word  could  I  understand,  but 
from  my  companions  I  learned  that  the  latter  was  inter- 
fering for  our  lives.  He  contended  that  we  had  entered 
the  settlements  openly  and  peacefully,  and  that  we  had 
asked  to  see  and  hold  converse  with  Governor  Armijo. 
With  him  rested  the  power  of  life  and  death,  and  before 
him  we  must  be  taken.  Vigil  prevailed  over  the  blood- 
thirsty captain,  and  thus  were  our  lives  spared  ;  but  in 
the  few  moments  which  had  passed  since  we  were  first 
drawn  up,  we  had  lived  a  common  lifetime  of  excite- 
ment. 

Foiled  in  his  murderous  intentions  by  the  prompt  aid 


FIRST   MARCH   AS   CAPTIVES.  287 

of  Don  Gregorio  Vigil,  whom  we  afterward  saw  and 
thanked  for  his  timely  interference,  Salezar  now  or- 
dered Don  Jesus  to  march  us  immediately  to  San  Mi- 
guel, where  it  was  thought  Armijo  had  arrived  with  a 
large  body  of  troops.  With  regret  we  saw  our  friend 
Vigil  leave  us.  He  was  the  owner  of  an  estate  near 
San  Miguel,  a  man  of  good  heart  and  correct  princi- 
ples, and  had  no  little  influence  with  the  Mexicans  hi 
that  quarter. 

Under  an  escort  of  some  half  a  dozen  men,  and  fol- 
lowed by  a  rabble  of  men,  women,  and  children,  we 
now  set  off  on  foot  for  San  Miguel,  leaving  our  well- 
tried  animals  in  the  hands  of  the  miscreants  who  had 
captured  us.  Arrived  at  the  little  village  of  Cuesta,  we 
were  marched  into  the  house  of  the  alcalde,  where, 
after  placing  two  sentinels  over  us,  Don  Jesus  left  us  to 
make  some  arrangement  for  the  march.  While  in  this 
house  we  were  visited  by  every  woman  and  child  in 
the  place,  the  former  giving  us  bread,  cheese,  and 
stewed  pumpkins,  and  appearing  deeply  to  compassion- 
ate us  in  our  unfortunate  condition.  They  undoubtedly 
thought  we  should  be  executed  immediately  on  meet- 
ing with  the  governor,  who  they  took  every  means  to  in- 
form us  was  a  brutal  and  unfeeling  tyrant,  delighting  in 
every  act  of  cruelty  which  might  impress  his  subjects 
with  fear,  and  ever  anxious  to  show  off  his  great  influ- 
ence and  power  by  acts  of  the  most  atrocious  persecu- 
tion. 

In  half  an  hour  Don  Jesus  returned,  and  ordered  us 
to  prepare  for  instant  departure.  We  were  destitute 
of  every  article  of  clothing  except  what  we  had  on,  and 
as  the  nights  among  the  mountains  were  at  this  season 
of  the  year  raw  and  chilly,  we  asked  him  to  return  at 
least  one  of  our  blankets  to  each  of  us.  Without  appa- 


888  MORE   DEGRADATION. 

rently  heeding  this  request,  he  turned  to  one  of  his  men 
and  ordered  him  to  bring  three  or  four  lariats,  or  ropes, 
with  which  to  tie  us,  intending,  as  he  said,  to  take  us  be- 
fore the  governor  in  that  degrading  condition.  Our 
friend  Vigil  was  now  out  of  the  way,  Salezar  had  taken 
the  road  towards  Anton  Chico  with  the  main  body  of 
his  men,  and  thinking  that  the  heartless  villain  who  now 
had  charge  of  us  might  have  adopted  this  plan  to  place 
us  completely  in  his  power,  and  then  butcher  us  under 
orders  from  his  superior,  we  peremptorily  refused  to  be 
tied.  He  still  insisted ;  but  on  our  informing  him  that 
we  would  walk  peaceably  to  San  Miguel,  he  finally  gave 
up  his  purpose.  Forming  us  in  front  of  the  house,  he 
then  placed  two  of  the  guard  in  advance  with  bows 
and  arrows  and  heavy  clubs,  two  more  in  the  rear 
armed  in  the  same  manner,  and  all  of  them  barefoot, 
while  he  himself  mounted  a  mule,  and  took  his  place  at 
the  side  of  our  party.  He  had  an  American  rifle  rest- 
ing before  him  on  the  pommel  of  his  saddle,  and  draw- 
ing an  old  rusty  sword,  he  started  us  off,  simply  inform- 
ing us  that  the  first  one  who  left  his  place  would  be  re- 
warded by  the  loss  of  his  head. 

There  was  something  supremely  ridiculous,  not  only 
in  his  threat,  but  in  the  appearance  of  our  guard,  and 
gloomy  as  our  situation  was,  we  could  not  help  laugh- 
ing. We  could  easily  have  fallen  upon  the  miserable 
apologies  for  men  who  were  guarding  us  and  disarmed 
them  in  a  twinkling ;  but  we  had  no  means  of  getting 
clear,  and  rejoining  our  men  afterward ;  and  as  recap- 
ture would  have  been  death,  thoughts  of  an  escape  were 
not  entertained. 

A  rapid  march  of  an  hour,  along  the  valley  of  the 
Pecos,  brought  us  to  the  little  village  of  Puertecito,  the 
residence  of  both  Salezar  and  the  fellow  who  now  had 


PAIN,   FATIGUE,   AND    HUNGER.  289 

charge  of  us.  Here  we  were  halted  for  a  short  time, 
to  give  the  inhabitants  an  opportunity  of  gazing  at  five 
unfortunate  prisoners,  and  to  convince  them  of  the  great 
prowess  of  the  redoubtable  Dimasio  Salezar,  and  his 
equally  valiant  second  in  command,  who  had  boldly  con- 
ceived and  successfully  carried  into  execution  a  daring 
plan  for  our  capture.  That  the  women  all  pitied  us 
was  evident;  for  the  commiserating  exclamation  of 
pobrecitos  !*  as  they  gave  us  bread,  cheese,  and  such 
food  as  they  had  at  hand,  fell  from  their  tongues  in  soft- 
est and  most  feeling  tones.  They  knew  their  husbands 
and  brothers,  and  knowing  them,  felt  that  little  of  mercy 
or  kindness  could  we  expect  at  their  hands. 

A  short  distance  above  Puertecito  we  were  obliged 
to  ford  the  Rio  Pecos.  The  water  was  not  more  than 
two  feet  in  depth ;  but  as  my  lame  and  weak  ankle  had 
now  begun  to  swell  from  the  active  and  unwonted  ex- 
ercise, I  was  deterred  from  taking  off  my  boots  by  a 
fear  that  I  could  not  get  them  on  again.  To  soak  my 
feet  thoroughly,  and  to  continue  the  march  in  this  dis- 
agreeable plight,  was  therefore  my  only  alternative. 

The  distance  from  Cuesta  to  San  Miguel  was  four- 
teen or  fifteen  miles  ;  and  it  was  nearly  sundown  before 
the  spire  of  the  little  church  at  the  latter  appeared  in 
sight.  Weary  and  faint  from  the  unusual  exercise,  and 
extremely  unwell  from  the  great  change  which  had  re- 
cently taken  place  in  our  diet,  we  were  escorted  through 
the  principal  square  or  plaza,  and  taken  to  a  little  hole 
which  was  dignified  with  the  name  of  a  room.  A  crowd 
followed  us  to  our  prison  doors,  and  continued  to  gaze 
at  us  until  the  last  minute. 

*  Poor  fellows  !  I  believe,  is  a  literal  translation,  although  it  means  much 
more.  Nothing  can  be  more  touchingly  sweet  than  the  pronunciation  of 
this  word  by  a  Spanish  or  Mexican  woman.  The  tones  come  fresh  and 
warm  from  the  heart  when  an  object  worthy  of  compassion  presents  itself. 

VOL.  I.— B  B 


290  FIRST    NIGHT   OF   CAPTIVITY, 

The  alcalde,  a  gruff,  bad-countenanced  man,  sent  us 
in  a  miserable  meal  of  tortillas  and  weak  mutton  broth, 
while  the  priest  of  the  place,  more  liberal,  sent  his  ser 
vant  with  a  generous  bowl  of  hot  coffee  for  each  of  us. 
Our  scanty  supper  over,  our  thoughts  were  next  turned 
towards  sleep  ;  but  the  earthen  floor  of  our  quarters 
was  without  a  single  blanket  to  relieve  its  hardness,  and 
the  chilling  blast  that  came  down  from  the  adjoining 
mountains  as  the  shades  of  evening  drew  nigh,  told  us, 
more  plainly  than  words,  that  we  need  expect  neither 
comfort  nor  sleep  that  night.  We  sent  word  to  the  al- 
calde of  our  unfortunate  plight :  he  answered  our  peti- 
tion by  saying  that  he  could  do  nothing  for  us.  A  kind- 
hearted  woman  living  close  by,  however,  sent  us  a  buf- 
falo skin  and  a  single  blanket,  and  another  blanket  I  pur- 
chased of  a  man  in  the  crowd,  for  which  I  gave  him  an 
English  sovereign.  With  these  we  made  up  a  bed  for 
five  persons.  I  suffered  more  than  any  of  my  compan- 
ions, the  bread  I  had  eaten  giving  me  a  severe  attack 
of  colic ;  and  I  crawled  from  the  ground  in  the  morn- 
ing weak  and  unrefreshed. 

Thus  did  we  spend  our  first  night  in  prison. 


MARCH    RESUMED.  291 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Ordered  to  march  towards  Santa  Fe. — Departure  from  San  Miguel. — Gloomy 
Anticipations. — Our  Guard  increased. — A  Present  from  a  Woman. — Meet 
with  a  Party  of  Mexican  Troops. — Brutality  of  their  Leader. — Lewis,  Van 
Ness,  and  Fitzgerald  tied  with  Cords. — Description  of  Don  Jesus. — Large 
Bodies  of  Troops  passed. — Their  miserable  Appointments. — Our  first  In- 
terview with  Governor  Armijo.— His  Reception. — Conduct  of  Lewis. — 
We  are  ordered  back  to  San  Miguel. — Armijo's  last  Command. — Carlos 
seen. — First  Appearance  upon  a  Donkey. — Antics  of  the  Animal. — A  heavy 
night  Shower. — Once  more  at  San  Miguel. — Barbarous  Execution  of  one 
of  our  Comrades. — We  are  ordered  before  the  Governor. — An  exciting 
Trial. — Rowland  condemned  to  Die. — Cruel  Mode  of  Execution. — Noble 
Conduct  of  Howland. — Kindness  of  a  young  Priest. — Reflections  upon  our 
Situation. — Departure  of  Mexican  Troops  for  Anton  Chico.— News  of  Col- 
onel Cooke  and  his  Men. — Plans  of  Armijo. — Particulars  of  the  Capture 
of  Howland. — Description  of  Manuel  Pino. — News  of  the  Capture  of  our 
Friends  at  Anton  Chico. — Great  Rejoicings  at  San  Miguel. 

WE  had  no  sooner  risen  than  Don  Jesus  told  us  that 
the  governor  had  not  yet  arrived,  and  that  he  should 
march  with  us  directly  towards  Santa  Fe.  distant  some 
sixty  miles,  in  the  hope  of  meeting  him  upon  the  road. 
Before  starting,  we  sent  out  and  purchased  an  entire 
sheep,  an  officious  fellow,  named  Tomas  Bustamente, 
whose  countenance  appeared  to  indicate  that  he  had 
some  honesty,  acting  as  our  agent  in  the  transaction. 
A  part  of  this  sheep  Tomas  cooked  for  our  breakfast, 
the  priest  again  sending  us  a  large  pitcher  of  coffee. 

It  was  nearly  nine  o'clock  before  everything  was  in 
readiness  for  our  departure.  Although  we  were  anxious 
to  see  the  governor  and  learn  the  worst,  it  may  be  ima- 
gined that  our  anticipations  were  not  of  a  very  pleasant 
nature.  Had  we  been  prisoners  in  the  hands  of  any 
other  people  under  the  sun  our  feelings  would  have 


292  ESCAPE    HOPELESS. 

been  far  different ;  but  we  were  now  in  the  power  of  men 
who  possessed  all  the  vices  of  savage  life  without  one 
of  the  virtues  that  civilization  teaches.  We  felt  that  al- 
though our  lives  had  been  spared  the  previous  day,  it 
was  but  a  reprieve ;  that  we  were  still  in  the  hands  of 
a  semi-civilized  enemy — cruel,  relentless,  and  treacher- 
ous— who  looked  upon  us  as  heretics,  and  the  common 
enemies  of  their  religion  and  race ;  and  we  had  fearful 
reason  to  believe  that  the  appearance  of  Armijo  would 
be  the  signal  for  our  immediate  execution.  Surely,  the 
emotions  of  that  hour,  when  the  future  was  looming  up 
so  close  and  dark  upon  us,  are  not  to  be  appreciated  by 
the  reader. 

Our  guard,  which  on  the  previous  day  had  only  con- 
sisted of  four,  was  now  increased  to  eight  men,  four 
members  of  the  country  militia,  armed  with  bows  and 
arrows,  and  mounted  upon  asses,  being  stationed,  two 
on  either  side,  while  Don  Jesus  on  his  mule  hovered 
around,  as  if  to  guard  the  weaker  points  in  the  order  of 
march.  This  addition  to  our  escort  had  been  provided 
by  the  old  alcalde  of  San  Miguel,  with  the  view,  proba- 
bly, of  rendering  our  escape  a  matter  of  positive  impos- 
sibility ;  yet,  enfeebled  as  we  were  from  our  many  pri- 
vations, and  the  long,  weary  pilgrimage  across  the  prai- 
ries, we  still  felt  certain  that  we  could,  at  any  time, 
capture  Don  Jesus  and  all  his  men  with  the  greatest 
ease.  A  determined  rush,  accompanied  by  a  true  An- 
glo-Saxon shout  of  defiance,  would  have  brought  every 
one  of  the  cowardly  wretches  to  his  knees  begging  for 
mercy ;  yet  we  should  not  have  been  able  successfully 
to  run  the  gauntlet  of  well-mounted  men  stationed  at  all 
the  passes  between  us  and  our  friends. 

After  parading  us  in  front  of  our  miserable  quarters, 
and  arranging  his  guard  around  us  with  much  pomp 


KINDNESS    OF   THE    WOMEN.  293 

and  show,  Don  Jesus  ordered  us  to  march.  The  plaza 
was  again  crowded  with  the  women,  children,  and  old 
men  of  San  Miguel  as  we  hurriedly  marched  through 
it,  many  of  the  boys  following  and  gazing  at  us  until  we 
reached  the  extremities  of  the  town.  We  had  not  trav- 
elled more  than  a  couple  of  miles  before  a  tolerably 
well-dressed  woman  came  running  towards  us  from  a 
small  house,  bringing  a  bottle  of  the  country  whiskey, 
and  saying  that  it  was  for  our  use.  This  we  drank 
upon  the  spot,  and  as  we  thanked  the  good-hearted 
creature  for  her  kindness  she  appeared  to  feel  deeply 
for  us  in  our  misfortunes.  Even  after  we  had  been  hur- 
ried off  by  our  inhuman  guard,  the  woman  still  remain- 
ed to  gaze  upon  us,  looking  her  last  at  the  pobrecitos, 
whom  she  really  thought  the  sun  would  not  set  upon 
alive.  The  almost  universal  brutality  and  cold-heart- 
edness  of  the  men  of  New  Mexico  are  in  strange  con- 
trast with  the  kind  dispositions  and  tender  sympathies 
exhibited  by  all  classes  of  the  women. 

A  brisk  walk  of  another  mile  brought  us  in  contact 
with  a  party  of  some  two  hundred  half-dressed  and  mis- 
erably-armed Mexicans,  on  their  march  towards  San 
Miguel.  Their  commander  was  a  brutal,  piratical-vis- 
aged  scoundrel,  who,  after  ordering  Don  Jesus  to  halt, 
cursed  us  with  every  opprobrious  epithet,  said  we  should 
have  been  shot  when  first  taken,  and  then  asked  why 
we  were  not  tied.  While  Don  Jesus  was  stammering 
forth  some  excuse,  the  fellow  ordered  his  trumpeter  to 
sound  an  advance,  and  in  three  minutes  a  turn  of  the 
road  concealed  this  extremely  valiant  party  and  their 
doughty  captain  from  our  sight.  Before  they  depart- 
ed, however,  we  learned  that  they  were  to  act  against 
Colonel  Cooke,  Captain  Sutton,  and  their  men,  and  we 
were  also  informed  that  Armijo  had  left  Santa  Fe  in  the 
B  B  2 


294  THE    CAPTIVES    BOUND. 

morning  with  several  hundred  men,  and  that  we  should 
meet  him  before  nightfall. 

The  miscreant  who  had  charge  of  us  now  stated 
that  his  imperative  duty  made  it  necessary  to  tie  us. 
With  a  mock  sensibility  he  pretended  that  it  was 
against  his  wish  to  do  this,  but  as  a  superior  officer  had 
ordered  him  he  must  comply,  simply  for  form's  sake. 
After  a  little  hesitation  on  the  part  of  Van  Ness  and 
Fitzgerald  they  consented  to  be  tied,  and  a  lariat  was 
accordingly  fastened  around  their  wrists,  while  the 
other  end  was  held  by  one  of  the  guard.  Lewis  was 
also  tied  and  led  along  like  a  dog ;  but  as  Major  How- 
ard was  suffering  from  an  old  wound  received  in  an 
Indian  fight,  and  as  I  was  also  lame,  and,  as  Don  Jesus 
well  knew,  had  slept  none  the  night  before,  he  allowed 
us  to  continue  the  march  without  being  confined.  He 
ordered  us,  however,  whenever  we  met  with  any  of 
the  different  parties  of  troops  we  were  now  constantly 
passing,  to  fold  our  hands  upon  our  breasts  as  a  token 
of  submission  !  Never  shall  I  forget  this  Don  Jesus. 
He  had  a  coarse,  dark,  hang-dog  face,  a  black  but  vi- 
cious eye,  a  head  which  I  am  phrenologist  enough  to 
know  was  as  destitute  of  the  organs  of  benevolence 
and  the  better  attributes  of  our  nature  as  outer  dark- 
ness is  of  light,  and  if  he  had  a  heart  at  all,  it  legiti- 
mately belonged  to  a  hyena  or  a  prairie  wolf. 

He  pushed,  or  rather  drove  us  rapidly  onward  until 
past  the  middle  of  the  afternoon,  during  which  time  we 
must  have  passed  nearly  a  thousand  troops,  the  larger 
portion  of  them  armed  with  bows  and  arrows  or  old 
and  worn-out  muskets.  The  sun  had  hidden  himself 
behind  a  range  of  mountains  which  divides  the  valley 
of  the  Pecos  at  this  point  from  that  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
and  we  were  approaching  an  old  and  ruined  mission, 


GOVERNOR    ARMIJO.  295 

which,  in  former  times,  had  served  the  double  purpose 
of  a  church  and  fortress,  when  suddenly  the  sharp  and 
discordant  blast  of  a  trumpet  announced  the  approach 
of  General  Manuel  Armijo,  governor  of  New  Mexico. 
An  abrupt  turn  in  the  ro-.J.  nad  at  first  concealed  his 
ragged  but  numerous  cavalcade  from  our  sight,  but  a 
few  steps  brought  us  in  full  view  of  all  the  pomp,  cir- 
cumstance and  chivalry,  bows  and  arrows,  sycophants 
and  rascals,  with  which  the  governor  is  usually  sur- 
rounded. When  I  say  that  our  guard  had  been  enter- 
taining us  during  the  day  with  stories  of  Armijo's  cru- 
elty and  barbarity,  and  that  they  freely  gave  it  as  their 
opinion  that  we  should  be  ordered  to  execution  on  sight, 
I  need  not  add  that  the  present  moment  was  exciting 
to  a  painful  degree. 

The  governor  himself,  a  fine,  portly  man,  was  mount- 
ed on  a  mule  of  immense  size,  and  gayly  as  well  as 
richly  caparisoned.  Don  Jesus  had  formed  us  into 
line  by  the  roadside,  there  to  await  the  advance  of  Ar- 
mijo. The  moment  the  quick  eye  of  the  latter  caught 
a  glance  of  us  he  rode  directly  up  to  the  spot  where 
we  were  standing,  and,  without  dismounting,  addressed 
us  with  no  little  politeness,  shook  each  of  us  by  the 
hand  with  much  apparent  cordiality,  called  us  amigos, 
or  friends,  and  after  saying  that  he  had  heard  of  our 
capture,  asked  us  who  we  were.  Lewis  immediately 
answered — and  here  the  spirit  of  the  craven  caitiff  first 
manifested  itself — that  we  were  merchants  from  the 
United  States.  Van  Ness  interrupted  him  at  once  by 
saying  that,  with  the  exception  of  myself,  we  were  all 
Texans  ;  but,  without  heeding  him,  Armijo  grasped 
Lewis  by  the  collar  of  his  dragoon  jacket,  dragged 
him  up  alongside  of  his  mule,  and,  pointing  to  the  but- 


296  THE  AUTHOR'S  PASSPORT. 

tons,  upon  which  were  a  single  star  and  the  word  "  Tex- 
as," he  sternly  said, 

"What  does  this  mean?  I  can  read — Texas!"  at 
the  same  time  pointing  to  the  latter  word  and  pronoun- 
cing it  emphatically.  Lewis  quailed  under  his  iron 
grasp,  but  without  heeding  him  the  governor  continu- 
ed, "  You  need  not  think  to  deceive  me :  no  merchant 
from  the  United  States  ever  travels  with  a  Texan  mili- 
tary jacket." 

After  asking  several  questions,  to  which  Lewis  re- 
turned stammering  answers,  Armijo  finally  spoke  of 
our  main  party,  and  inquired  its  number  and  the  inten- 
tions of  the  commissioners.  He  was  answered  by  Van 
Ness  and  Howard  that  it  was  a  mercantile  expedition 
from  Texas,  and  that  the  intentions  of  the  leaders  were 
pacific.  Mr.  Van  Ness  then  told  him  that  I  did  not  be- 
long to  the  party  any  farther  than  that  I  accompanied  it 
for  the  protection  it  afforded  against  Indians,  and  added 
that  I  had  a  passport  from  the  Mexican  consul  in  New- 
Orleans.  This  passport,  with  all  my  papers,  was  in  the 
hands  of  Don  Jesus,  who  immediately  gave  it  to  Armi- 
jo. After  reading  it  aloud  in  presence  of  all  of  us,  he 
gave  it  back  into  the  hands  of  the  captain  of  our  guard, 
at  the  same  time  remarking  that  the  passport  was  a 
good  one,  but  that,  as  I  was  found  in  company  with  the 
enemies  of  New  Mexico,  he  should  detain  me  until  he 
could  learn  farther  of  my  intentions.  My  companions 
had  invariably  assured  me  that  I  should  be  released  im- 
mediately on  having  an  interview  with  the  governor ; 
but  by  this  time  I  had  seen  enough  of  the  people  of 
New  Mexico,  and  heard  enough  of  Armijo,  to  convince 
me  that  I  need  not  look  for  justice  at  his  hands,  and 
was  therefore  but  little  disappointed  at  the  disposition 
he  made  of  my  case.  After  what  we  had  heard  of  the 


ARMIJo's   ACCOUNT    OF    HIMSELF.  297 

fellow,  and  his  cruel  barbarities,  we  felt  in  a  measure 
satisfied  on  ascertaining  that  we  were  not  to  be  shot 
upon  the  spot,  and  without  a  hearing. 

After  disposing  of  my  case  and  passport  thus  sum- 
marily, Armijo  gratuitously  informed  us  that  he  was  an 
honourable  man  and  not  an  assassin,  and,  what  was 
more,  that  he  was  a  great  warrior.  Whatever  doubts 
we  might  have  entertained  on  this  point,  we  did  not 
see  fit  to  express  any  at  the  time,  and  the  fellow  may 
have  taken  our  silence  for  a  tacit  acknowledgment  of 
our  belief  in  his  magnanimity  and  bravery.  He  next 
asked  us  which  of  our  little  party  best  understood  the 
Spanish  language,  as  he  wanted  one  of  us  to  accom- 
pany him  as  interpreter.  At  this  question  Lewis  ea- 
gerly pressed  forward,  and  after  asserting  that  he  could 
speak  the  language  more  fluently  than  any  of  his  com- 
panions, at  once  proffered  his  services.  He  really  was 
more  fluent  with  Spanish  than  any  of  us,  having  resided 
many  years  in  Chihuahua  and  other  parts  of  Mexico. 
Armijo  immediately  ordered  a  mule  for  him  to  ride,  and 
after  his  hands  were  untied  he  mounted  the  animal  and 
rode  in  among  his  new  associates.  That  up  to  this 
time  he  had  acted  in  perfect  good  faith  towards  Colonel 
Cooke  and  the  expedition,  I  have  not  the  least  doubt ; 
but  he  now  saw  that  he  was  completely  in  the  power 
of  men  whom  he  understood  thoroughly,  and  from 
whom  he  well  knew  he  could  expect  neither  mercy  nor 
justice  ;  he  saw,  too,  that  by  betraying  his  former  asso- 
ciates, those  who  had  often  befriended  him,  he  might 
gain  life  and  liberty,  and  for  this  he  at  once  sundered 
all  the  holy  ties  of  religion,  honour,  companionship,  and 
patriotism.  Not  one  of  us  suspected  him  at  the  time  of 
other  than  honourable  intentions,  but  after  circumstan- 
ces rendered  his  base  treachery  unquestionable. 


298  A   SANGUINARY    ORDER. 

Armijo  now  turned  to  Don  Jesus,  and  in  a  pompous 
and  bombastic  tone  ordered  him  to  guard  us'  safely 
back  to  San  Miguel  that  night,  as  he  wished  to  hold 
a  conversation  with  us  early  on  the  ensuing  morning. 

"  But  they  have  already  walked  ten  leagues  to-day, 
your  excellency,  and  are  hardly  able  to  walk  all  the 
way  back  to-night,"*  was  the  answer  of  the  fellow, 
who  was  thinking  of  his  own  personal  convenience  and 
comfort  all  the  while. 

"  They  are  able  to  walk  ten  leagues  more,"  retorted 
Armijo,  with  a  stately  wave  of  his  hand.  "  The  Tex- 
ans  are  active  and  untiring  people — I  know  them,"  he 
continued  ;  "  if  one  of  them  pretends  to  be  sick  or  tired 
on  the  road,  shoot  him  down  and  bring  me  his  ears  ! 
Go !" 

"  Yes,  your  excellency,"  was  the  obsequious  answer 
of  the  cringing  Don  Jesus,  and  with  a  flourish  of  trum- 
pets the  great  General  Armijo  and  his  motley  army 
now  left  us.  As  they  filed  by,  in  helter-skelter  order, 
we  noticed  our  former  guide,  the  runaway  Carlos,  in 
the  crowd.  He  was  seated  upon  a  mule,  his  arms  and 
breast  bandaged,  and  we  afterward  learned  that  he  had 
been  stabbed  and  severely  wounded  by  a  nephew  of 
Armijo,  for  his  supposed  connexion  with  the  Texan  ex- 
pedition. 

The  sun  had  ceased  to  tinge  the  highest  tops  of  the 
eastern  mountains  ere  the  last  stragglers  and  camp-fol- 
lowers of  Armijo  had  trotted  past  us,  and  we  were  ex- 
tremely tired  and  faint  after  our  weary  march  of  nearly 
thirty  miles  ;  yet  this  fellow,  who  in  one  breath  told  us 
he  was  "  an  honourable  man,"  almost  in  the  next  order- 
ed us  back  over  the  same  rough  and  broken  road  with- 

*  The  Spanish  league  lacks  but  a  small  fraction  of  being  equal  to  three 
English  miles. 


FREAKS    OF   A  DONKEY.  29d 

oul  food  or  sleep !  The  penalty  of  failure  was  death, 
and  to  be  certain  that  his  orders  had  been  strictly  ful- 
filled, or  perhaps  to  gratify  his  curiosity,  he  wished  to 
see  the  ears  of  such  of  us  as  might  fall  by  the  roadside, 
unable  to  endure  the  excessive  fatigue. 

As  if  fearful  of  not  having  an  opportunity  to  fulfil  Ar- 
mijo's  last  command,  Don  Jesus  now  rushed  us  back 
over  the  same  ground  at  a  more  rapid  pace  than  ever. 
I  was  not  only  weary  and  unwell  by  this  time,  but  my 
lame  ankle  was  so  swollen  and  stiff,  from  the  unusual 
exercise,  that  I  could  hardly  drag  it  along ;  yet,  deter- 
mined that  the  honourable  governor  should  see  some- 
thing of  me  in  the  morning  besides  my  ears,  I  hired  the 
privilege,  at  an  exorbitant  rate,  of  a  seat  on  the  donkey 
of  one  of  the  Mexicans,  the  owrner  to  ride  behind  me. 
The  poor,  scraggy  animal  could  not  be  more  than  eight 
hands  high,  and  appeared  hardly  able  to  bear  up  under 
one  full-grown  man ;  yet  the  Mexican  told  me  he  was 
strong  enough  to  carry  two,  and  hurriedly  helped  me 
to  mount  a  miserable  apology  for  a  saddle  strapped 
loosely  to  the  back  of  the  donkey.  Possessing  all  the 
perverseness  and  obstinacy,  and  up  to  all  the  tricks  of 
his  race,  he  still  allowed  a  perfect  stranger,  not  only  to 
him  but  his  kind,  to  mount  in  quietness.  Not  so  when 
his  owner  undertook  the  task  of  bestriding  him ;  for  no 
sooner  had  he  placed  his  hands  on  the  donkey's  hip 
joints,  in  the  act  of  springing  to  his  perch  behind  me, 
than  the  animal  kicked  violently  up — landing  him  sev- 
eral yards  in  the  rear,  flat  upon  his  back,  while  the 
same  movement  hoisted  me  skyward  in  a  line  as 
straight  as  a  rocket.  Although  extremely  poor  in  flesh, 
I  still  had  specific  gravity  enough  to  bring  me  down ; 
and  while  in  the  act  of  descending  directly  upon  the 
haunches  of  the  ass,  another  kick-up  gave  me  another 


300  RETURN    TO    SAN    MIGUEL. 

hoist  in  the  air.  I  fortunately  made  the  ground  in  my 
second  descent,  without  sustaining  the  least  personal 
injury.  Gloomy  as  were  our  prospects,  my  compan- 
ions could  not  resist  the  temptation  to  laugh  heartily 
at  my  ludicrous  exhibition  of  ground  and  lofty  tumbling, 
and  I  even  took  a  part  myself  in  the  merry  outbreak 
when  I  ascertained  that  I  was  unhurt. 

The  road  between  Santa  Fe  and  San  Miguel  is  rough 
and  uneven,  running  over  hills,  and  crossing  deep  gul- 
lies.* Bad  as  it  was,  however,  and  faint  and  tired  as 
we  were,  we  reached  a  small  prairie  within  six  miles 
of  the  latter  place  about  midnight.  The  heavens  now 
became  suddenly  overcast,  and  a  dark  thunder  cloud 
soon  rendered  it  impossible  for  even  our  guard  to  see 
the  way  any  farther.  Just  as  the  shower  commenced 
falling  a  halt  was  called,  and  lying  upon  the  ground 
without  blankets,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  tremendous  rain, 
we  slept  sound  till  morning. 

A  walk,  or  rather  a  hobble  of  two  hours,  for  we  were 
so  stiff  and  foot-sore  that  we  could  not  walk,  brought  us 
once  more  to  the  plaza  or  public  square  of  San  Miguel. 
The  place  was  now  literally  filled  with  armed  men — a 
few  regular  troops  being  stationed  immediately  about 
the  person  of  Armijo,  while  more  than  nine  tenths  of  the 
so-called  soldiers  were  miserably  deficient  in  every 
military  appointment.  A  sergeant's  guard  of  the  regu- 
lar troops  was  immediately  detailed  to  take  charge  of 
our  little  party,  and  after  bidding  adieu  to  Don  Jesus, 
as  we  hoped  forever,  we  were  marched  to  a  small  room 
adjoining  the  soldiers'  quartel.  This  room  fronted  on 
the  plaza,  and  had  a  small  window  looking  out  in  that 

*  This  road,  I  believe,  was  made  at  the  expense  of  the  St.  Louis  traders, 
and  is  the  only  part  of  the  long  route  between  Independence  and  Santa  Fe 
upon  which  any  work  has  been  done  or  money  expended. 


AN    EXECUTION.  301 

direction ;  but  the  only  entrance  was  from  a  door  on 
the  side.  Sentinels  were  immediately  placed  at  the  lit- 
tle window  and  door,  leading  us  to  suppose  that  this  was 
to  be  our  regular  prison-house ;  but  we  had  scarcely 
been  there  ten  minutes  before  a  young  priest  entered 
at  the  door,  and  said  that  one  of  our  party  was  to  be 
immediately  shot !  While  gazing  at  each  other  with 
looks  of  eager  inquiry,  wondering  that  one  was  to  be 
shot  and  not  all,  and  while  each  one  of  us  was  earnest- 
ly and  painfully  speculating  on  the  question  which  of 
his  fellows  Armijo  had  singled  out  for  a  victim,  the 
young  priest  raised  himself  on  tiptoe,  and  looking  over 
our  heads,  pointed  through  the  windows  of  our  close 
and  narrow  prison.  We  hurriedly  turned  our  eyes  in 
that  direction,  and  were  shocked  at  seeing  one  of  our 
men,  his  hands  tied  behind  his  back,  while  a  bandage 
covered  his  eyes,  led  across  the  plaza  by  a  small  guard 
of  soldiers.  Who  the  man  was  we  could  not  ascertain 
at  the  time,  but  that  he  was  one  of  the  Texans  was  evi- 
dent enough  from  his  dress.  The  priest  said  that  he 
had  first  been  taken  prisoner,  that  while  attempting  to 
escape  he  had  been  retaken,  and  was  now  to  suffer 
death.  A  horrible  death  it  was,  too  !  His  cowardly 
executioners  led  him  to  a  house  near  the  same  corner 
of  the  square  we  were  in,  not  twenty  yards  from  us,  and 
after  heartlessly  pushing  him  upon  his  knees,  with  his 
head  against  the  wall,  six  of  the  guard  stepped  back 
about  three  paces,  and  at  the  order  of  the  corporal  shot 
the  poor  fellow  in  the  lack  !  Even  at  that  distance  the 
executioners  but  half  did  their  barbarous  work  ;  for  the 
man  was  only  wounded,  and  lay  writhing  upon  the 
ground  in  great  agony.  The  corporal  stepped  up,  and 
with  a  pistol  ended  his  sufferings  by  shooting  him 
through  the  heart.  So  close  was  the  pistol  that  the 
VOL.  I.— C  c 


302  CAPTIVES   INSPECTED. 

man's  shirt  was  set  on  fire,  and  continued  to  burn  until 
it  was  extinguished  by  his  blood  ! 

Scarcely  was  this  horrible  scene  over  before  we  were 
taken  by  a  strong  guard  from  our  prison.  Without  even 
being  able  to  divine  their  intentions,  we  were  marched 
directly  by  our  late  companion,  conducted  through  two 
or  three  streets,  and  finally  paraded  in  front  of  a  small 
and  gloomy  hovel  having  a  single  window.  The  move- 
ment was  conducted  silently,  and  there  was  a  mysteri- 
ous solemnity  about  it  which,  added  to  the  late  barba- 
rous murder  of  one  of  our  party,  overwhelmed  us  with 
sensations  of  doubt  and  alarm,  even  more  insupportable 
than  would  have  been  an  order  for  our  instant  execution. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  little  window,  and  at  a 
distance  of  twelve  steps,  we  were  next  formed  in  line 
by  our  guard,  and  ordered  not  to  leave  our  position  or 
move  in  the  least.  All  was  mystery,  uncertainty,  anx- 
iety. Soon  Armijo,  dressed  in  a  blue  military  jacket, 
with  a  sword  at  his  side,  was  seen  to  approach  the  win- 
dow. One  by  one  he  pointed  us  out  to  some  person  be- 
hind him,  of  whom  we  could  not  obtain  even  a  glimpse, 
and  as  he  pointed  he  asked  the  concealed  individual 
who  and  what  the  person  was  to  whom  his  finger  was 
now  directed,  his  name,  business,  and  the  relation  in 
which  he  stood  with  the  Texan  expedition.  These 
questions  were  asked  in  a  loud  tone  of  voice,  and  were 
distinctly  heard  by  all  of  us,  but  the  answers  did  not 
reach  our  ears,  although  we  listened  with  an  earnest- 
ness and  intensity  that  were  almost  painful.  It  seemed 
to  us  that  we  were  undergoing  an  arbitrary  trial  for  our 
lives — a  trial  in  which  we  could  have  no  friendly  coun- 
sel, could  bring  no  witnesses,  offer  no  proofs  or  argu- 
ments to  the  bloodthirsty  and  lawless  wretch  who  alone 
constituted  the  tribunal.  But  this  torturing  suspense 


A    RESPITE.  303 

was  of  short  duration,  for,  after  having  questioned  his 
concealed  agent  as  to  each  of  us  separately,  Armijo  is- 
sued from  the  little  house  on  an  opposite  side  from  the 
window,  and  with  a  pompous  dignity  of  manner  slowly 
approached  the  spot  where  we  were  standing,  awaiting, 
with  deep  anxiety,  a  sentence  from  which  we  knew 
there  was  no  appeal. 

"  Gentlemen,"  commenced  the  governor,  stopping  in 
front  of  us,  "  gentlemen,  you  told  me  the  truth  yester- 
day— Don  Samuel  has  corroborated  your  statements — 
I  save  your  lives.  I  have  ordered  Don  Samuel  to  be 
shot — he  will  be  shot  in  five  minutes.  He  ran  away 
from  Santa  Fe,  and,  in  attempting  to  reach  Colonel 
Cooke's  party,  has  been  retaken.  You  now  see  the  pen- 
alty of  trying  to  escape.  His  fate  will  be  yours  if  you 
attempt  it.  Sergeant  of  the  guard,  conduct  these  gen- 
tlemen back  to  prison."  This  was  delivered  in  a  loud, 
military  voice. 

While  congratulating  ourselves  upon  this  most  unex- 
pected termination  of  a  trial  of  such  harrowing  interest, 
and  wondering  who  the  Don  Samuel  was  whose  testi- 
mony had  thus  evidently  saved  our  lives,  our  old  friend 
and  guide,  Howland,  was  led  forth  from  the  little  room. 
The  truth  now  flashed  upon  us — we  knew  that  his 
name  was  Samuel,  that  he  had  been  acquainted  in  for- 
mer years  with  Armijo,  and  that  the  Mexicans  seldom 
use  other  than  the  Christian  appellative  when  address- 
ing or  speaking  of  a  man.  Howland's  hands  were  tied 
closely  behind  him,  and  as  he  approached  us  we  could 
plainly  see  that  his  left  ear  and  cheek  had  been  cut  en- 
tirely off,  and  that  his  left  arm  was  also  much  hacked, 
apparently  by  a  sword.  The  guard  conducted  their 
doomed  prisoner  directly  by  us  on  the  left,  and  when 
within  three  yards  of  us  the  appearance  of  his  scarred 


304        ANOTHER  MURDEROUS  EXECUTION. 

cheek  was  ghastly ;  but  as  he  turned  his  head  to  speak, 
a  placid  smile,  as  of  heroic  resignation  to  his  fate,  lit 
up  the  other  side  of  his  face,  forming  a  contrast  almost 
unearthly.  We  eagerly  stepped  forward  to  address 
him,  but  the  miscreants  who  had  charge  of  us  pushed 
us  back  with  their  muskets,  refusing  even  the  small 
boon  of  exchanging  a  few  wrords  with  an  old  compan- 
ion now  about  to  suffer  an  ignominious  death.  How- 
land  saw  and  felt  the  movement  on  our  part.  He  turn- 
ed upon  us  another  look,  a  look  full  of  brave  resolution 
as  well  as  resignation,  and,  in  a  low  but  distinct  tone, 
uttered,  "  Good-by,  boys ;  I've  got  to  suffer.  You 
must — "  But  the  rest  of  the  sentence  died  on  his  lips, 
for  he  was  now  some  yards  in  the  rear  of  us,  and  out  of 
hearing. 

The  guard  who  had  charge  of  us  now  wheeled  us 
round,  and  marched  us  in  the  same  route  taken  by  our 
unfortunate  guide,  and  within  ten  yards  of  him.  A 
more  gloomy  procession  cannot  be  imagined.  With 
Howland  in  advance,  we  were  now  conducted  to  the 
plaza,  and  halted  close  by  the  spot  where,  in  plain 
sight,  lay  the  body  of  our  recently-murdered  compan- 
ion. A  bandage  was  placed  over  the  eyes  of  the  new 
victim,  but  not  until  he  had  seen  the  corpse  of  his  dead 
comrade.  Worlds  would  we  have  given  could  we  be 
permitted  to  exchange  one  word  with  our  unoffending 
friend — to  receive  his  last,  dying  request — yet  even  this 
poor  privilege  was  denied  us.  After  the  cords  which 
confined  his  arms  had  been  tightened,  and  the  bandage 
pulled  down  so  as  to  conceal  the  greater  part  of  his 
face,  Howland  was  again  ordered  to  march.  With  a 
firm,  undaunted  step  he  walked  up  to  the  place  of  exe- 
cution, and  there,  by  the  side  of  his  companion,  was 
compelled  to  fall  upon  his  knees  with  his  face  towards 


DEATH   OP    HOWLAJfD.  305 

the  wall.  Six  of  the  guard  then  stepped  back  a  yard 
or  two,  took  deliberate  aim  at  his  back,  and  before  the 
report  of  their  muskets  died  away  poor  Rowland  was 
in  eternity !  Thus  fell  as  noble,  as  generous,  and  as 
brave  a  man  as  ever  walked  the  earth.  He  was  a  na- 
tive of  New-Bedford,  Massachusetts,  of  a  good  family, 
and  by  his  gentlemanly  and  affable  deportment  had  en- 
deared himself  to  every  member  of  the  expedition.  In 
a  daring  attempt  to  escape,  and  reach  Colonel  Cooke's 
party,  in  order  to  give  him  important  information,  he 
had  been  retaken  after  a  desperate  struggle,  and  the 
life  he  could  not  lose  in  the  heat  of  that  struggle  was 
taken  from  him  in  this  base  and  cowardly  manner. 

Our  feelings,  while  looking  upon  this  brutal  tragedy, 
it  is  impossible  to  describe.  A  fearful,  a  terrible  thing 
it  is  to  see  a  man  shot — one  who  deserves  his  fate — 
even  when  he  is  allowed  to  stand  bravely  up  and  die 
facing  his  executioners  :  for  much  as  every  human  be- 
ing may  dread  the  king  of  terrors,  there  is  hardly  one 
so  base  as  not  to  wish,  when  death  makes  his  last  inex- 
orable call,  to  meet  him  face  to  face.  How  much  more 
terrible,  then,  to  see  a  brave  and  honourable  being  like 
Rowland,  full  of  manhood  and  capable  of  no  base  or 
craven  deed,  led  out  and  shot  in  a  manner  so  cowardly, 
and  to  see  this,  too,  without  the  power  to  act  in  his  behalf! 
Tumultuous  feelings  did  the  scene  call  up — feelings  of 
indignation  and  deep  hatred  for  his  worse  than  savage 
murderers  ;  and  for  him,  between  whom  and  us  the 
common  ties  of  friendship  had  become  strengthened 
and  drawn  into  more  than  fraternal  closeness  by  our 
long  intercourse  in  the  wilderness,  were  mixed  emo- 
tions of  regret,  pity,  love,  and  admiration  at  a  fate  so 
horrible  so  heroically  met. 

The  barbarous  execution  was  no  sooner  over  than 
C  c  2 


306  A   FRIENDLY   PRIEST. 

we  were  conducted  to  the  portales  in  front  of  the  sol- 
diers' quartel,  and  again  placed  under  a  strong  guard  of 
the  regular  troops.  The  sergeant  appeared  to  have 
more  kindness  of  heart  than  his  fellows,  as  he  gave  one 
of  my  companions  a  blanket  to  spread  upon  the  hard 
earthen  floor  which  was  chosen  as  our  sleeping-place 
for  the  ensuing  night.  The  young  priest,  who  had 
called  upon  us  in  the  morning,  shortly  made  us  a  second 
visit,  telling  us  that  we  need  be  under  no  alarm,  as  the 
governor  had  determined  upon  saving  our  lives  unless 
we  made  an  attempt  to  escape.  There  appeared  to  be 
an  exceeding  degree  of  delicacy,  not  only  in  the  visits, 
but  in  the  conversation  of  this  young  man,  which  deno- 
ted that  he  possessed  finer  feelings  than  either  his  mas- 
ter or  the  herd  by  whom  he  was  surrounded.  He  was 
evidently  a  man  of  education,  acquainted  with  the  usa- 
ges of  the  world ;  and  his  actions  showed  that  he  was 
anxious  to  impress  us  with  a  belief  in  our  own  personal 
security  while  scenes  of  the  most  sanguinary  nature 
were  going  on  around  us.  Often,  on  that  eventful  day, 
did  recollections  of  the  French  Revolution  pass  through 
my  mind.  Armijo  I  could  not  look  upon  but  as  a  sec- 
ond Robespierre,  only  requiring  a  field  of  equal  extent 
to  make  him  equally  an  assassin,  a  murderer,  a  blood- 
thirsty tyrant.  His  power,  I  knew,  had  been  purchased 
by  blood — I  saw  that  it  was  sustained  by  blood.  Hu- 
man life  he  regarded  not,  so  that  his  base  ends  were  at- 
tained ;  and  he  would  not  shrink  from  sacrificing  one 
man  on  the  altar  of  his  sanguinary  ambition,  if  by  so 
doing  he  could  impress  another  with  a  due  sense  of  his 
boundless  authority  and  power  to  do  whatever  might 
seem  meet  unto  him.  The  young  priest  was  well  aware 
that  we  knew  the  man  Armijo,  and  hence  his  benevo- 
lent desire  to  quiet  any  apprehensions  that  might  arise 


A    VALIANT   GOVERNOR.  307 

of  our  personal  safety.  It  was  this  feeling  which  brought 
him  to  our  prison  before  the  first  of  our  comrades  was 
killed — the  same  humane  motives  actuated  him  in  call- 
ing upon  us  after  the  murder  of  Rowland.  But  to  re- 
turn to  my  narrative. 

From  the  time  of  our  first  arrival  in  San  Miguel  that 
morning,  to  the  death  of  Howland,  the  plaza  had  been 
nearly  filled  with  armed  men.  Two  pieces  of  artillery, 
badly  mounted  and  every  way  ineffective,  were  stand- 
ing immediately  in  front  of  our  quarters,  in  the  porch. 
These  cannon  were  drawn  by  oxen,  the  animals  yoked 
and  hitched,  but  lying  down  after  a  hard  march  from 
Santa  Fe  and  quietly  ruminating  within  ten  yards  of  us. 
Immediately  after  the  execution  of  Howland,  detach- 
ment after  detachment  of  mounted  men  left  the  plaza 
for  Anton  Chico,  where  we  now  learned  that  Captain 
Sutton  and  Colonel  Cooke,  with  their  men,  were  en- 
camped. Next  the  two  pieces  of  cannon  were  dragged 
off  in  the  same  direction,  surrounded  and  followed  by 
a  motley  collection  of  Indians  and  badly-armed,  half- 
naked,  wretched  Mexicans,  whom  Armijo  dignified 
with  the  title  of  rural  militia.  By  the  middle  of  the 
day  the  town  was  completely  deserted,  except  by  the 
women  and  children  and  some  two  hundred  of  the 
chosen  troops  and  friends  of  the  governor ;  for,  great 
warrior  as  he  was,  he  contrived  to  keep  the  prudent  dis- 
tance of  some  thirty  miles  between  himself  and  the  Tex- 
ans  so  long  as  they  had  arms  in  their  hands.  The 
plans  of  the  very  valiant  and  most  puissant  Armijo 
were  laid  with  consummate  skill  so  far  as  his  own  per- 
sonal safety  and  that  of  his  property  were  concerned. 
He  had  now  surrounded  Colonel  Cooke  with  at  least 
a  thousand  of  his  men,  while  there  were  but  ninety- 
four  Texans  in  all.  In  case  the  latter  defeated  the 


308  STORY    OP   HOWLAND. 

Mexicans — and  Armijo  trembled  and  feared  lest  they 
should — his  plan  was  to  retreat  to  his  residence  at  Al- 
buquerque as  fast  as  picked  horses  would  carry  him, 
and  then,  after  gathering  all  his  money  and  valuables, 
make  his  escape  into  the  interior  of  Mexico.  With 
these  intentions  he  remained  behind  at  San  Miguel,  and 
there  anxiously  awaited  the  news  from  the  little  frontier 
town  of  Anton  Chico. 

The  command  of  the  troops,  acting  against  Colonel 
Cooke,  Armijo  had  assigned  to  his  few  personal  friends 
— toadies  and  sycophants  whom  he  always  has  about 
him,  and  for  whose  adherence  he  pays  a  good  round 
sum.  He  well  knew  that  nine  tenths  of  his  people  inly 
hated  and  despised  him,  and  were  also  inclined  for  an 
immediate  annexation  to  Texas  ;  he  knew,  too,  that  they 
feared  him,  and  that  nothing  but  their  extreme  ignorance 
and  timidity  had  prevented  them,  years  before,  from 
throwing  off  his  yoke.  So  long  as  they  were  com- 
manded by  officers  in  his  pay  he  felt  confident  that  he 
could  make  a  show  if  not  a  fight  with  them,  and  he  felt 
equally  confident  that  if  parade,  fair  promises,  and 
treachery  could  induce  the  Texans  to  lay  down  their 
arms,  he  could  still  retain  his  ascendency.  Such  was 
his  policy,  such  were  his  plans,  and  fate  decreed  that 
they  should  prove  successful. 

From  some  of  the  soldiers  of  our  guard  we  gathered, 
during  the  day,  full  particulars  of  Rowland  and  his  unfor- 
tunate companions.  They  had  reached  the  settlements 
some  three  weeks  before  us,  when  Armijo,  suspecting 
their  intentions  and  the  object  of  their  mission,  had  them 
arrested  at  San  Miguel  and  sent  to  Santa  Fe.  From 
this  place  they  effected  their  escape  three  or  four  days 
before  we  were  arrested.  Until  their  recapture  they 
had  been  secreted  in  the  mountains  between  the  two 


A   NOBLE    SPIRIT.  309 

places,  travelling  by  night  only,  and  using  every  exer- 
tion to  reach  Colonel  Cooke,  of  whose  approach  they 
had  heard  from  their  guard  at  Santa  Fe. 

Armijo  immediately  sent  out  large  parties  to  retake 
them,  being  extremely  anxious  that  they  should  not 
reach  the  Texans  and  give  information  of  his  plans. 
On  the  morning  of  September  the  17th  they  were  fallen 
in  with  on  the  side  of  a  mountain,  near  San  Miguel,  by 
a  company  of  Mexicans  ten  times  their  number.  Al- 
though armed  only  with  pistols  and  swords,  which  they 
had  taken  from  their  guard  when  they  effected  their 
escape,  they  still  made  a  brave  and  vigorous  resistance. 
Rosenbury  was  killed  on  the  spot,  and  Rowland  and 
Baker  were  not  taken  until  severely  wounded  and  weak 
from  loss  of  blood.  The  latter  was  the  man  we  saw 
shot  a  short  time  before  Rowland,  the  bandage  over  his 
face  preventing  us  from  recognising  him.  He  could 
not  speak  Spanish,  and  the  tyrant  Armijo  ordered  him 
to  death  without  even  saying  a  word  to  him.  How- 
land,  on  the  contrary,  was  well  known  in  New  Mexico, 
having  lived  in  Santa  Fe  several  years  before.  The 
governor  offered  him  his  life  and  liberty — the  same 
terms  Lewis  accepted — if  he  would  betray  his  compan- 
ions and  assist  him  in  capturing  them.  The  brave  and 
noble-spirited  man  rejected  the  offer  with  scorn,  and 
notwithstanding  the  disgraceful  mode  of  his  execution, 
his  death  was  an  honourable  one.  Grecian  or  Roman 
history,  or  the  heroic  deeds  of  later  days,  can  hardly 
furnish  a  parallel  to  that  of  Rowland — to  that  of  one 
who  fearlessly  met  the  most  terrible  death  conceivable 
rather  than  betray  his  friends. 

The  bodies  of  the  murdered  men  were  allowed  to  re- 
main where  they  had  fallen  until  near  night,  a  large 
pack  of  dogs  congregating  around  them,  licking  their 


310  A   MEXICAN    BRAGGART. 

blood  and  tearing  their  clothes.  They  were  then  taken 
to  a  prairie  near  the  town,  denied  a  burial,  and  were 
finally  devoured  by  wolves  ! 

Several  Mexican  officers  called  at  our  quarters  during 
this  eventful  afternoon,  among  them  a  pursy,  bloated, 
sallow-faced  wretch,  named  Manuel  Pino.  He  rode  a 
beautiful  and  spirited  black  horse,  of  which  he  was  so 
proud  that  he  was  continually  galloping  and  fretting  him 
about  the  square,  and  spurring  him  to  the  execution  of 
such  curvettings  as  would  most  induce  a  rattling  of  his 
sword,  spurs,  holsters,  and  the  other  jingling  appointments 
of  a  Mexican  horseman.  Ever  and  anon  he  would  dash 
up  to  our  quarters,  throw  himself  heavily  from  his  truly 
gallant  animal,  and  recount  some  exploit  which  he  vain- 
ly hoped  might  excite  our  admiration.  He  said  that  he 
had  not  only  begged,  but  prayed  Armijo  to  allow  him  to 
lead  a  charge  against  our  friends  at  Anton  Chico,  but 
that  the  governor  would  not  consent  that  so  brave  a 
man  should  leave  his  side  for  a  moment.  In  short,  this 
fellow  took  such  particular  pains,  on  all  occasions,  to 
impress  us  with  a  belief  in  his  prowess  and  bravery, 
that  we  finally  became  thoroughly  convinced  of  his  being 
an  arrant  coward  ;  and  after  circumstances  fully  justi- 
fied our  opinions. 

Not  only  Pino,  but  the  other  Mexican  officers  attach- 
ed to  the  personal  staff  of  Armijo,  informed  us  that  a 
nephew  of  the  latter,  in  company  with  Lewis,  had  de- 
parted for  Anton  Chico  with  the  hope  of  bringing  the 
Texans  to  terms.  They  also  said  that  our  friends  were 
surrounded  by  more  than  a  thousand  of  the  best  troops 
in  New  Mexico,  and  that  re-enforcements  were  hourly 
reaching  the  spot ;  and  they  even  went  so  far  as  to  as- 
sure us  that,  if  they  did  not  surrender  quietly,  our  own 
lives  would  be  sacrificed  bv  a  lawless  and  unrestraina- 


MORE    TEXAN    CAPTIVES.  311 

ble  mob — anything  but  a  consoling  assurance  to  men 
who  were  perfectly  confident  that  our  friends  would 
never  surrender  without  a  desperate  struggle.  That 
they  did  not  come  to  the  country  to  make  war  upon  the 
inhabitants  we  well  knew ;  we  were  equally  well  con- 
vinced that  such  men  as  Colonel  Cooke,  Dr.  Brenham, 
Captain  Sutton,  and  the  brave  spirits  under  their  com- 
mand, would  not  tamely  submit  to  be  deprived  of  their 
arms  and  made  prisoners,  intrenched,  as  we  had  been 
informed  they  were,  in  a  ravine,  and  so  fortified  that 
they  could  easily  defeat  ten  or  even  twenty  times  their 
number  of  such  cowardly  and  badly-appointed  men  as 
they  would  have  to  contend  with. 

The  hours  flew  swiftly  by,  couriers  constantly  depart- 
ing to,  and  arriving  from,  Anton  Chico.  At  one  time  it 
was  represented  to  us  that  a  dreadful  battle  was  raging 
— then,  that  the  parties  would  come  to  terms.  At  sun- 
down, a  Mexican  came  riding  into  the  square  with  the 
intelligence  that  the  Texans  had  all  surrendered.  In- 
stantly the  air  was  filled  with  vivas,  and  in  ten  minutes 
we  received  a  visit  from  the  governor's  secretary  and 
the  brute  Manuel  Pino,  corroborating  the  news.  They 
said  the  terms  were  an  unconditional  surrender ;  but 
this  we  could  not  believe.  Even  at  this  time  it  was 
suggested  by  one  of  our  little  party  that  if  Colonel 
Cooke  had  surrendered  without  a  terrible  fight,  treach- 
ery had  done  the  work,  and  that  Lewis  was  the  instru- 
ment ;  but  such  was  our  confidence  in  the  man  that  a 
majority  of  us  could  not  believe  he  had  turned  traitor. 

It  was  but  too  apparent,  however,  that  our  comrades 
had  been  taken.  Nothing  was  heard,  in  any  quarter, 
but  rejoicings  and  congratulation.  Shouts  of  "  Long 
live  the  Mexican  Republic  '."  "  Long  live  the  brave  Gen- 
eral Armijo  !"  "  Long  live  the  laws  !"  and  "  Death  to  the 


312  GREAT   REJOICINGS. 

Texans!"  were  heard  on  every  side,  and  these  were 
followed  by  discharges  of  musketry,  ringing  of  bells, 
blowing  of  trumpets,  and  such  music  as  may  be  produ- 
ced by  cracked  mandolins  and  rickety  fiddles  when 
execrably  played  upon.  A  Te  Deum  was  in  the  mean 
while  sung  in  the  church,  a  short  distance  from  the  plaza, 
and  the  guardian  saint  of  the  place,  San  Miguel,  with 
all  his  finery,  feathers,  and  wings,  was  dragged  from 
his  resting-place  to  take  part  in  the  show.  Fandangoes 
were  got  up  in  the  different  houses  on  the  plaza,  a 
drunken  poet  was  staggering  about  singing  his  own 
hastily-made-up  verses  in  praise  of  Armijo,  taking  his 
pay,  probably,  in  liquor — all  went  perfectly  mad,  and 
spent  the  night  in  revel,  riot,  and  rejoicing.  A  grim, 
swarthy  sentinel,  with  a  face  hideously  ugly,  was  sta- 
tioned directly  in  front  of  the  little  porch  where  we  had 
cast  our  weary  limbs.  As  if  to  add  to  the  general  din, 
he  howled  forth  the  dismal  "Centinelaalerta  /"*  every 
ten  minutes  during  the  night,  and  his  cry  appeared  .to  be 
the  signal  for  some  six  or  eight  others,  stationed  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  plaza,  to  join  in  the  doleful  chorus. 
This  startling  watchword  I  thought  the  most  discordant, 
grating,  and  hideous  sound  that  had  ever  greeted  my 
ears.  Drawled  out  to  a  distressing  length  by  a  voice 
hoarse,  cracked,  and  scarcely  human,  and  then  caught 
up  in  different  parts  of  the  square  by  men  who  appear- 
ed emulous  of  making  a  still  more  doleful  and  wo-be- 
gone  noise,  and  I,  all  the  while,  ignorant  of  its  import — 
what  with  all  these  hellish  orgies  and  cabalistic  sounds 
in  our  ears,  and  with  all  the  startling  and  horrible  inci- 
dents of  the  day  in  our  minds,  it  may  be  imagined  that 
we  slept  but  little  that  night. 

The  shouting,  firing,  ringing,  dancing  and  carousing 

*  Sentinel,  be  on  the  look-out,  or  alert. 


CHANGE    OF   QUARTERS.  313 

were  kept  up  until  morning ;  and  why  ?  Because  some 
fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  cowardly  wretches  had 
succeeded  in  capturing  ninety-four  half-starved  Texans 
— not  by  the  intervention  of  battle  or  military  strategy, 
but  by  the  blackest  piece  of  treachery  to  be  found  on 
record. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

New  Quarters. — Our  Party  taken  before  Armijo. — Reception  by  that  Func- 
tionary.— His  bombastic  Account  of  the  Soldiers  of  New  Mexico. — Again 
taken  to  Prison. — Appearance  of  Armijo. — Description  of  our  Prison. — 
Overrun  with  Chinches, — The  Family  next  Door. — The  Zapatero's  Wife. 
— A  singular  Custom. — The  Senora  Francisca  abandons  her  Paint. — Dress 
of  the  Females  of  New  Mexico. — Its  Scantiness. — Freaks  of  Fashion. — 
Description  of  the  Reboso  and  Mantilla. — Beauties  of  the  Women  of  Mex- 
ico.— Kindness  of  the  Girls  of  San  Miguel. — Colonel  Cooke's  Men  march- 
ed through  San  Miguel. — Lieutenant  Lubbock's  Account  of  the  Surren- 
der.— Agency  of  Lewis  in  the  Affair. — Change  of  Quarters. — Prison  Occu- 
pations.—Manner  of  passing  our  Time. — Chances  of  an  Escape  canvassed. 
— Arrival  of  Caravans  from  the  United  States.  —  We  are  not  permitted 
Conversation  with  our  Countrymen. — A  seasonable  Supply  of  Luxuries. — 
The  Author  assured  of  his  personal  Release. — A  Mexican  Loafer. — Tomas 
Bustamente—  Employ  him  as  our  principal  Agent. — Thomas  Rowland  — 
His  Release  from  Arrest. — Bustamente  sent  on  a  Mission  to  Lewis. — Its 
unsuccessful  Result.  —  Thoughts  upon  Pipes.  —  Bustamente's  Trickery 
found  out.  —  Confidence  lost  in  the  Man.  —  Come  to  the  Conclusion  that 
the  Mexicans  will  bear  watching. 

ON  the  morning  which  followed  the  night  described 
in  the  last  chapter,  we  were  taken  to  new  quarters  in 
another  part  of  the  town,  where  a  small  room  was  pro- 
vided for  our  prison.  We  had  barely  time  to  examine 
our  new  quarters  before  the  governor  sent  a  guard  to 
escort  us  to  his  lodgings  at  the  priest's  house.  On  be- 
ing brought  before  him  we  found  the  great  man  sur- 
rounded by  his  principal  officers,  both  military  and 

VOL.  I.— D  D 


314  INTERVIEW  WITH   ARMIJO. 

civil,  and  from  their  obsequious  manner  it  was  evident 
enough  that  Armijo's  power  was  supreme. 

The  governor  did  not  rise  as  we  entered  his  room, 
but  still  waved  his  hand  with  great  natural  dignity  and 
politeness,  and  bade  us  good-morning  with  a  frankness 
and  cordiality  which  he  well  knew  how  to  assume. 
Remarking  that  he  was  aware,  from  our  appearance 
and  Howland's  declarations,  of  our  being  caballeros,  or 
gentlemen,  in  our  own  country,  he  ordered  his  officers 
to  make  room  for  us  on  the  different  boxes  and  trunks 
scattered  about  the  room.  He  then  asked  several  ques- 
tions in  relation  to  General  McLcod  and  his  party,  said 
that  he  was  going  immediately  with  all  his  force  to 
meet  him,  and  that  if  the  Texans  resisted  every  one  of 
them  would  be  killed.  He  next  spoke  of  the  strength 
of  New  Mexico,  its  great  resources,  the  prowess  and 
daring  bravery  of  himself  and  the  resistless  soldiers 
under  his  command,  and  drew  such  a  ludicrous  picture, 
and  relieved  it  with  such  a  tissue  of  bombastic  fanfaro- 
nade, that  we  could  hardly  maintain  our  gravity.  If 
we  had  not  met  and  seen  the  brave  soldiers  of  whom 
he  spoke,  his  words  might  have  gone  for  something ; 
but  the  whole  of  them  had  passed  in  review  before  us, 
and 

"  Such  a  tattered  host  of  mounted  scarecrows, 
So  bare,  so  withered,  famished  in  the  march, 
That  their  executors,  the  greedy  crows, 
Flew  hovering  o'er  their  heads,  impatient  for 
Their  lean  inheritance !" 

In  short,  such  a  motley,  half-naked,  ill-appointed  set  of 
ragamuffins  constituted  his  army,  that  we  could  with 
difficulty  believe  that  the  great  Armijo  was  not  quizzing 
us  in  his  grandiloquent  description. 

After  a  little  commonplace  conversation,  Armijo 
next  gave  special  directions  to  the  old  alcalde  of  San 


ARMIJO'S    COSTUME.  315 

Miguel  that  we  should  be  well  treated,  that  all  our 
wants  should  be  provided  for,  and  that  no  one  could 
insult  or  impose  upon  us  without  incurring  his  most 
fierce  and  vindictive  wrath.  He  then  dismissed  us,  re- 
marking, as  we  were  leaving  the  room,  that  if  one  of 
us  attempted  to  escape  during  his  absence  life  should 
be  the  forfeit. 

We  were  then  marched  back  to  our  new  quarters, 
and  a  very  small  guard  placed  over  us — a  guard  we 
could  at  any  time  have  seized  upon,  tied  neck  and  heels, 
and  locked  in  our  own  prison.  Scarcely  had  we  re- 
turned to  our  carcel  before  a  blast  from  one  of  Armijo's 
trumpets  announced  his  immediate  departure ;  and  ere 
the  sounds  had  died  away,  the  great  man  and  his  fol- 
lowers dashed  past  us,  evidently  going  some  hundred 
yards  out  of  his  way  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  give 
us  one  more  opportunity  of  seeing  him.  His  appear- 
ance was  certainly  imposing,  even  unto  magnificence. 
On  this  occasion  he  was  mounted  on  a  richly-caparison- 
ed mule,  of  immense  size  and  of  a  beautiful  dun  colour. 
In  stature  Armijo  is  over  six  feet,  stout  and  well  built, 
and  with  an  air  decidedly  military.  Over  his  uniform 
he  now  wore  a  poncho  of  the  finest  blue  broadcloth,  in- 
wrought with  various  devices  in  gold  and  silver,  and 
through  the  hole  in  the  centre  peered  the  head  to  which 
the  inhabitants  of  New  Mexico  are  compelled  to  bow 
in  fear  and  much  trembling.  Armijo  is  certainly  one 
of  the  best-appearing  men  I  met  in  the  country,  and 
were  he  not  such  a  cowardly  braggart,  and  so  utterly 
destitute  of  all  moral  principle,  is  not  wanting  in  the 
other  qualities  of  a  good  governor. 

On  his  departure,  San  Miguel,  which  ordinarily  con- 
tained some  two  or  three  hundred  able-bodied  men, 
was  left  with  scarcely  a  dozen,  he  having  dragged 


316  A   WHIMSICAL   ORNAMENT. 

away  with  him  every  one  old  and  active  enough  to 
carry  a  lance  or  bow  and  arrow,  in  the  direction  of 
the  great  prairie,  to  meet  the  force  under  General 
McLeod. 

The  room  assigned  us  as  a  prison  was  immediately 
adjoining  the  little  adobe  church  of  San  Miguel,  with  its 
small  belfry  and  clear-sounding  bell,  and  its  rude  turret 
surmounted  by  a  large  wooden  cross.  Had  this  room 
not  been  completely  overrun  with  chinches,  which, 
when  night  came,  issued  from  every  crack  and  crevice 
in  the  walls  in  myriads,  it  would  have  been  very  com- 
fortable. Our  guard  was  soon  on  the  most  sociable 
terms  with  us,  allowing  us  to  sit  in  front  of  our  door, 
and  kindly  doing  any  little  errand  which  might  add  to 
our  limited  stock  of  comforts.  In  the  room  adjoining 
ours,  the  two  doors  not  being  four  yards  apart,  lived  a 
Mexican  family,  the  head  of  which  was  a  zapatero,  or 
shoemaker.  His  wife  was  a  young,  chatty,  well-form- 
ed woman,  and  had  not  one  side  of  her  face  been  mark- 
ed by  a  large,  ugly  red  spot,  would  have  been  exceed- 
ingly comely.  Two  thirds,  at  least,  of  the  women  we 
had  seen  were  more  or  less  disfigured  by  these  deep- 
red  marks ;  and  we  could  not  but  think  that  nature,  in 
this  mountain  climate,  had  dealt  unkindly  with  them. 
Not  for  one  moment  did  it  occur  to  us  that  these  red 
blotches,  which  frequently  gave  the  countenance  an  ex- 
pression absolutely  hideous,  had  been  placed  there  by 
other  than  the  partial  fingers  of  nature.  I  knew  that 
fancy  frequently  led  the  votaries  of  fashion  to  strange 
and  most  unseemly  lengths,  but  I  could  not  believe  that 
in  her  wildest  caprice  she  had  instituted  such  revolting 
adornments  for  "  the  human  face  divine." 

On  the  following  morning,  it  appeared  to  us  that  the 
mark  on  the  face  of  our  female  neighbour  had  changed 


BEAUTY   UNADORNED.  317 

its  position.  Not  a  little  did  we  marvel  at  this  ;  for  all 
were  sure  the  spot  had  been  on  the  opposite  cheek  the 
day  before,  and  still  we  could  not  believe  that  it  was 
other  than  a  mark  she  had  carried  from  her  birth. 
Early  on  the  third  morning  she  appeared  before  us  with 
a  face  not  only  fair,  but  very  pretty — not  a  spot  or 
blemish  to  be  discovered.  At  first  we  did  not  recog- 
nise her,  but  on  inquiring,  we  found  that  all  the  spots 
which  had  so  much  disfigured  her  had  been  placed 
there  by  herself,  the  juice  of  some  red  berry  being  used 
for  the  purpose.  We  told  the  Senora  Francisca  that 
she  looked  much  better  plain,  and  without  those  extra- 
neous ornaments,  and  after  this  she  beautified  herself  no 
more.  The  custom  is  universal  among  the  females  of 
New  Mexico,  and  when  there  is  no  weed  or  berry  that 
furnishes  a  deep-red  tint,  they  use  vermilion,  or  even  a 
reddish  clay.  How  they  can  imagine  that  these  vile 
marks  improve  their  appearance  it  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive, and  the  fact  can  only  be  accounted  for  upon  the 
principle  that  there  is  no  accounting  for  taste.  The 
belles  of  New  Mexico  appear  to  be  ignorant  of  the 
aphorism  that  "  beauty  when  unadorned  is  adorned  the 
most." 

The  dress  worn  by  the  females  of  Northern  Mexico, 
in  fact  all  over  the  country,  is  a  cotton  or  linen  che- 
mise and  a  blue  or  red  short  woollen  petticoat — fre- 
quently, among  the  more  wealthy,  the  latter  is  made  of 
a  gaudy,  figured  merino,  imported  expressly  for  the 
purpose.  These  simple  articles  of  raiment  are  usually 
made  with  no  little  degree  of  neatness,  the  chemise,  in  par- 
ticular, being  in  many  cases  elaborately  worked  with 
flowers  and  different  conceits,  while  the  edges  are  taste- 
fully decorated  with  ruffles  or  laces,  if  it  lies  within  the 
power  of  the  wearer  to  procure  them.  On  first  entering 
D  D  2 


318  SCANTY   WARDROBES. 

the  country,  the  Anglo-Saxon  traveller,  who  has  been 
used  to  see  the  gentler  sex  of  his  native  land  in  more  full, 
and  perhaps  I  should  say  more  becoming  costume,  feels 
not  a  little  astonished  at  the  Eve-like  and  scanty  garments 
of  the  females  he  meets  ;  he  thinks  that  they  are  but 
half  dressed,  and  wonders  how  they  can  have  the  in- 
delicacy, or,  as  he  would  deem  it  at  home,  brazen  im- 
pudence, to  appear  before  him  in  dishabille  so  immodest. 
But  he  soon  learns  that  it  is  the  custom  and  fashion  of 
the  country — that,  to  use  a  common  Yankee  expres- 
sion, the  women  "  don't  know  any  better."  He  soon 
looks,  with  an  eye  of  some  leniency,  at  such  little  defi- 
ciencies of  dress  as  the  absence  of  a  gown,  and  is  not 
long  in  coming  to  the  honest  conclusion,  as  the  eye  be- 
comes more  weaned  from  the  fastidiousness  of  early 
habit  and  association,  that  a  pretty  girl  is  quite  as  pretty 
without  as  with  that  garment.  By-and-by,  he  is  even 
led  to  think  that  the  dress  of  the  women,  among  whom 
fate,  business,  or  a  desire  to  see  the  world  may  have 
thrown  him,  is  really  graceful,  easy — ay,  becoming: 
he  next  wonders  how  the  females  of  his  native  land  can 
press  and  confine,  can  twist  and  contort  themselves 
out  of  all  proportion,  causing  the  most  gracefully-cur- 
ving lines  of  beauty  to  become  straight  and  rigid,  the 
exquisite  undulations  of  the  natural  form  to  become  flat 
or  angular,  or  conical,  or  jutting,  and  all  in  homage  to 
a  fickle  and  capricious  goddess — a  heathen  goddess, 
whose  worshippers  are  Christians !  He  looks  around 
him,  he  compares,  he  deliberates — the  result  is  altogeth- 
er in  favour  of  his  new-found  friends. 

Among  the  Mexican  women,  young  and  old,  corsets 
are  unknown,  and,  by  a  majority  of  them,  probably  un- 
heard of.  I  travelled  nearly  seven  hundred  miles 
through  the  country,  without  seeing  a  single  gown — all 


PROGRESS    OF    FASHION.  319 

the  females  were  dressed  in  the  same  style,  wrth  the 
same  abandon.  The  consequence  any  one  may  read- 
ily imagine  :  the  forms  of  the  gentler  sex  obtain  a  round- 
ness, a  fulness,  which  the  divinity  of  tight  lacing  never 
allows  her  votaries.  The  Mexican  belles  certainly  have 
studied,  too,  their  personal  comfort  in  the  costume  they 
have  adopted,  and  it  is  impossible  to  see  the  prettier  of 
the  dark-eyed  senoras  of  the  northern  departments  with- 
out acknowledging  that  their  personal  appearance  and 
attractions  are  materially  enhanced  by  the  neglige  style. 
Moore's  beautiful  lines  to  Nora  Creina  appear  to  apply 
especially  to  the  Mexican  girls,  for  their  dress  certainly 
leaves 

"  — ^—  every  beauty  free 
To  sink  or  swell  as  Heaven  pleases." 

But  by  all  this  the  reader  must  not  understand  that  the 
traveller  sees  no  full-dressed  ladies  in  Mexico.  In  the 
great  city  of  the  Montezumas,  in  fact  in  all  the  larger 
towns  where  foreigners  and  French  milliners  have  set- 
tled, he  sees  them  habited  after  the  fashion  of  his  own 
land,  although  he  cannot  but  notice  that  a  large  portion 
of  those  so  attired  feel  constrained  and  ill  at  ease  under 
the  infliction.  I  have  seen,  in  one  of  the  larger  cities,  a 
lady  with  the  body  and  sleeves  of  a  fashionable  frock 
hanging  dangling  at  her  back,  without  even  attempting 
to  conceal  what  many  would  call  a  gross  departure 
from  all  rules  and  reasons.* 

*  Since  my  return  to  the  United  States  I  have  been  informed,  by  traders 
who  have  visited  Santa  Fe,  that  many  of  the  women  of  that  place  have  adopt- 
ed the  tunica,  or  gown.  The  fashion  was  first  introduced,  as  is  almost  inva- 
riably the  case,  by  a  French  woman.  Her  name  was  Madame  Tule,  or  Tou- 
louse, or  something  of  the  kind.  How  she  happened  to  stray  so  far  from 
comfort  and  civilization  as  Santa  Fe,  or  by  what  road  she  reached  it,  is  a 
matter  of  which  I  arn  ignorant ;  I  only  know  that  she  visited  the  place,  open- 
ed a  monte,  or  gambling-house,  and  set  the  fashion  of  dress  to  the  belles. 
The  traders,  as  a  matter  of  policy,  favoured  the  introduction,  as  it  afforded 
them  a  more  ready  market  for  the  sale  of  silks,  satins,  and  calicoes.  By 
nearly  the  same  means  the  fashion  has  spread  as  far  as  Chihuahua. 


320  THE    MANTILLA    AND   REBOSO. 

Bonnets  are  never  worn,  either  by  rich  or  poor,  high 
or  low ;  but  in  their  stead  the  mantilla  and  reboso,  more 
especially  the  latter,  are  in  general  use  among  all  class- 
es. The  latter  is  a  species  of  long,  narrow  scarf,  made 
of  cotton,  and  in  a  majority  of  cases  figured  with  two 
colours  only,  blue  and  white.  These  indispensable 
articles  in  the  toilet  of  the  Mexican  female  serve  not 
only  the  uses  of  parasol  and  bonnet,  but  also  of  shawl, 
veil,  and  workbag.  The  manner  of  wearing  them  is 
extremely  graceful — sometimes  upon  the  head,  at  oth- 
ers over  the  shoulders,  and  again  round  the  waist,  with 
the  ends  hanging  across  the  arms  ;  in  the  streets  they 
are  worn  almost  invariably  over  the  head,  and  so  arch- 
ly and  coquettishly  does  the  fair  Mexican  draw  the  re- 
boso around  her  face,  that  the  inquisitive  beholder  is 
frequently  repaid  with  no  other  than  the  sight  of  a  dark 
and  lustrous  eye  peering  out  from  amid  its  folds. 

The  ends  of  the  reboso  are  frequently  used  as  an 
apron,  to  carry  any  little  articles  that  cannot  be  held  in 
the  hands,  and  seldom  is  a  female  seen  without  one  of 
them,  from  the  extreme  north  of  Mexico  to  its  southern- 
most boundaries.  From  childhood  it  is  worn,  and  long 
habit  has  so  accustomed  them  to  its  use  that  it  is  not 
laid  aside  when  engaged  in  common  household  labour. 

It  is  really  surprising  with  what  facility  the  Mexican 
females  perform  their  household  duties  encumbered  by 
this  garment.  An  American  lady  would  as  easily  man- 
age her  affairs  with  her  hands  tied  behind  her  back  as 
writh  the  reboso  about  her,  yet  it  is  never  in  the  way  of 
the  Mexican.  The  mantilla  resembles  it  in  many  re- 
spects, but  is  made  of  finer  material,  rather  wider,  and 
worn  more  among  the  fashionables  in  the  larger  cities. 
An  extremely  beautiful  ornament  it  is.  too,  when  worn 
with  that  peculiar  grace  which  no  other  than  the  lady 
of  Spanish  origin  can  affect. 


HOSPITABLE    VISITERS.  321 

The  more  striking  beauties  of  the  women  of  Northern 
Mexico  are  their  small  feet,  finely-turned  ankles,  well- 
developed  busts,  small  and  classically  formed  hands, 
dark  and  lustrous  eyes,  teeth  of  beautiful  shape  and  daz- 
zling whiteness,  and  hair  of  that  rich  and  jetty  blackness 
peculiar  to  the  Creole  girls  of  Louisiana,  and  some  of 
the  West  India  islands.  Generally  their  complexions 
are  far  from  good,  the  mixture  of  Spanish  and  Indian 
blood  giving  a  sallow,  clayish  hue  to  their  skin  ;  neither 
are  their  features  comely,  although  frequently  a  face  may 
be  met  with  which  might  serve  as  a  perfect  model  of 
beauty.  But  then  they  are  joyous,  sociable,  kind-hearted 
creatures  almost  universally,  liberal  to  a  fault,  easy  and 
naturally  graceful  in  their  manners,  and  really  appear 
to  have  more  understanding  than  the  men.  Had  we 
fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  women  instead  of  the  men, 
our  treatment  would  have  been  far  different  while  in 
New  Mexico. 

During  our  tedious  and  annoying  confinement  at 
San  Miguel,  we  were  visited  by  every  girl  in  the 
town,  and  from  the  ranches  in  the  vicinity.  Each  time 
they  brought  us  some  little  delicacy  to  eat ;  and  if  ever 
men  came  near  being  killed  with  kindness,  we  were 
the  victims.  One  party  would  arrive  with  a  dish  of 
chile  guisado,  an  olla  podrida,  or  hash  of  stewed  mut- 
ton, strongly  seasoned  with  red  pepper,  and  really  ex- 
cellent when  well  made.  Scarcely  would  this  party 
leave  us  before  another  would  come  in,  bringing  atole 
and  miel ;  others  milk,  eggs,  tortillas,  or  bread.  Of  all 
these  different  dishes  we  were  obliged  to  partake,  or 
wound  the  feelings  of  our  kind-hearted  friends ;  and  the 
consequence  was,  that  we  were  frequently  compelled 
to  swallow  a  dozen  meals  a  day  for  the  first  week  or 
two  of  our  imprisonment.  That  we  did  fair  justice  to 


322  SURRENDER    OP   THE  TEXANS. 

the  hospitality  of  the  women,  I  am  frank  to  confess,  for 
our  previous  long  starvation  had  given  us  most  excel- 
lent and  not  easily  appeased  appetites ;  but  if  "  enough 
is  as  good  as  a  feast" — and  an  old  adage  says  that  it  is 
— I  can  argue  from  experience  that  too  much  is  worse 
even  than  a  brief  famine,  when  personal  comfort  is  ta- 
ken into  consideration.  No  slight  can  be  greater  than 
the  rejection  of  any  eatable  proffered  by  a  Mexican 
girl;  and  so  numerously  attended  were  our  levees  at 
San  Miguel,  that  we  were  frequently  employed  half 
the  day  in  paying  due  honour  to  our  presentations. 

It  was  on  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  of  September 
that  Colonel  Cooke  and  his  men  surrendered  themselves 
at  Anton  Chico.  On  the  morning  of  the  20th  these  be- 
trayed and  unfortunate  men  passed  through  the  edge 
of  San  Miguel  on  their  long  and  gloomy  march  towards 
the  city  of  Mexico.  We  were  not  permitted  to  see 
them,  but  were  informed  by  the  women  who  visited  us, 
that  they  had  been  stripped  of  nearly  everything,  and 
were  badly  treated  in  every  way. 

At  this  point  of  my  narrative — for  I  cannot  find  a 
more  fitting  place — I  will  give  my  readers  an  account 
of  the  agency  Lewis  had  in  inducing  our  companions 
to  surrender  their  arms  at  Anton  Chico.  To  show 
him  in  his  true  colours,  I  will  make  a  few  extracts  from 
a  statement  of  the  particulars  of  the  surrender  made  by 
Lieutenant  Lubbock,  one  of  Captain  Sutton's  officers. 
Lieutenant  L.  was  taken  to  the  city  of  Mexico  with  the 
rest  of  the  party,  but  while  confined  in  the  convent  of 
Santiago,  made  a  daring  escape  by  leaping  from  a  bal- 
cony in  the  second  story,  and  afterward  succeeded  in 
reaching  Texas  in  safety. 

It  seems  that  the  day  after  the  small  party  which  I  ac- 
companied, consisting  of  Howard,  Fitzgerald,  Van  Ness, 


LIEUTENANT    LUBBOCK's    ACCOUNT.  323 

and  Lewis,  left  the  large  sheepfold  on  the  Gallinas,  the 
main  body  of  the  Texans  took  up  the  line  of  march,  and 
travelled  as  far  as  Anton  Chico.  They  did  not  enter 
the  town,  but  encamped  on  the  edge  of  a  ravine  within 
some  two  hundred  yards,  a  strong  position  in  case  of 
attack,  with  an  abundance  of  water  running  almost  at 
the  very  feet  of  the  men.  Three  or  four  of  the  Tex- 
ans, who  crossed  the  river,  and  entered  the  small  town 
to  purchase  provisions,  were  arrested  by  Dimasio  Sale- 
zar,  who  was  then  encamped  at  the  place  with  several 
hundred  men.  Salezar  immediately  sent  one  of  them 
back  to  Colonel  Cooke  and  Dr.  Brenham,  with  a  request 
that  they  would  come  over  to  the  village  and  hold  a  con- 
sultation with  him.  These  officers  very  properly  sent 
back  word  to  him  that  if  he  wished  to  see  them  he  must 
come  to  their  camp.  He  came  over,  and  the  conference 
resulted  in  the  liberation  of  the  men.  Colonel  Cooke 
then  asked  Salezar  what  had  become  of  Van  Ness, 
Lewis,  Howard,  Fitzgerald,  and  myself.  He  answered 
that  he  had  met  us,  was  satisfied  with  the  objects  of  the 
mission  as  we  had  explained  them,  had  treated  us  as 
friends,  and  sent  us  on  to  the  governor.  That  night, 
according  to  Lieutenant  L.,  Salezar  was  re-enforced  by 
a  hundred  and  fifty  men,  but  the  rest  of  his  account  of 
the  surrender  I  will  give  in  his  own  words. 

"  About  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  Sep- 
tember, it  was  determined  to  take  up  the  line  of  march, 
when  a  message  was  received  from  Captain  Salezar, 
stating  that  Governor  Armijo  would  arrive  in  a  few 
hours,  and  that,  as  an  evidence  of  his  friendly  disposi- 
tion, he  would  cross  the  river  that  intervened  between 
our  encampments,  and  encamp  near  us.  As  he  took 
up  the  line  of  march,  our  men  were  formed  to  receive 
him  en  militaire,  and  in  a  proper  manner.  He  march- 


324  TREACHKRY  OF  LEWIS. 

ed,  however,  entirely  around  our  line,  and  took  his  po- 
sition within  two  hundred  yards  of  us,  having  received 
farther  re-enforcements,  and  now  numbering  about  four 
hundred  men.  We  were  then  dismissed,  but  with  or- 
ders to  be  ready  to  seize  our  arms  at  a  moment's  no- 
tice. In  about  fifteen  minutes  we  perceived  a  party  of 
about  a  hundred  and  fifty  or  two  hundred  men,  advan- 
cing to  our  right  and  rear.  This  gave  cause  for  a  sus- 
picion of  danger,  and  Colonel  Cooke  immediately  or- 
dered Captain  Sutton  to  form  the  men  for  action.  In 
five  minutes  battle  to  the  death  would  have  been  com- 
menced— but  some  one  exclaimed  that  Captain  Lewis 
was  at  the  head  of  the  party.  The  order  was  there- 
fore given  to  stand  at  ease,  the  advancing  party  uni- 
ting, in  the  mean  while,  with  the  party  in  our  front.  We 
then  perceived  Captain  Lewis  advancing  towards  us, 
with  another,  whom  we  afterward  ascertained  to  be  the 
nephew  of  the  governor.  Lewis  told  us  that  the  peo- 
ple were  exasperated  at  our  coming,  and  were  in  arms ; 
that,  in  addition  to  the  six  hundred  troops  before  us,  he 
himself  had  seen  four  thousand  of  the  best-equipped 
men  he  had  ever  met  with ;  that  they  were  on  the 
march,  and  would  be  on  the  ground  in  a  few  hours. 
He  farther  stated  that  five  thousand  men  were  march- 
ing from  Chihuahua,  and  were  expected  daily,  but  that 
the  governor  had  commissioned  him  to  offer,  if  we 
would  give  up  our  arms,  permission  to  come  in  and 
trade,  and  that  at  the  end  of  eight  days  they  would  be 
returned  to  us,  together  with  our  recruited  horses.  He 
farther  stated  that  he  knew  this  to  be  the  custom  of  the 
St.  Louis  traders  visiting  Santa  Fe,  that  no  possible 
harm  would  result  from  such  a  course,  and  for  the  truth 
of  these  statements  Lewis  pledged  his  honour.  It  was 
observed,  during  the  conference,  that  Lewis,  in  his  Ian- 


FALSEHOOD    AND    VILLANY.  325 

guage,  disconnected  himself  from  us,  using  continually 
the  pronoun  you  instead  of  we.  This  aroused  the  sus- 
picions of  one  of  the  officers,  who  proposed  that  we 
should  return  to  our  companions  as  we  came  ;  and  if 
we  could  not  do  better,  walk,  and  live  upon  the  horses 
we  had  left.  The  nephew  of  the  governor  replied  that 
such  a  course  would  never  do ;  that  his  uncle  knew 
Americans  were  gentlemen,  and  that  such  inhumanity 
could  not  be  permitted  towards  them  ;  and  again  urged 
us  to  accept  the  proposition,  and  comply  with  the  re- 
quisitions made  upon  all  traders  visiting  Santa  Fe. 
They  then  started  for  their  camp.  While  our  officers 
were  in  consultation,  one  of  them  reminded  Colonel 
Cooke  of  the  peculiarity  he  had  observed  in  Lewis's 
conversation,  and  told  him  that  his  suspicions  were 
aroused,  for  the  very  countenance  of  the  man  forebo- 
ded evil.  Colonel  Cooke  went  after  Lewis,  and  held  a 
private  conversation  with  him.  On  returning,  he  said 
that  the  officer  must  be  wrong,  for  Lewis  had  pledged 
to  him  his  masonic  faith  for  the  correctness  of  his  state- 
ments. That  day  our  arms  and  equipments  were  taken 
from  us ! 

"  We  were  among  strangers — destitute  of  the  very 
necessaries  of  life — broken  down  physically,  and  well- 
nigh  mentally — two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  our 
companions,  and  there  were  no  means  on  the  route  of 
supporting  nature  in  an  effort  to  reach  them ;  added  to 
all  these,  we  had  the  assurance  of  one  of  our  compan- 
ions, who  had  ever  been  considered  a  man  of  honour — 
we  had  his  plighted  faith,  that  we  were  among  friends, 
and  would  be  treated  accordingly.  Could  we,  would 
any  one  have  done  otherwise  than  capitulate  upon  the 
terms  offered  ?  It  is  painful  to  denounce  one  with  whom 
I  have  associated  as  a  brother  officer  and  fellow-soldier, 

VOL.  I.— E  E 


326  TREATMENT   OP   THE    PRISONERS. 

upon  a  dangerous  expedition,  one  whom  I  have  looked 
upon  as  a  man,  as  a  Texan ;  it  is  painful,  I  say,  to  de- 
nounce any  one  thus  situated  as  a  villain  and  traitor ;  but 
the  facts  are  too  conclusive — William  P.  Lewis  betrayed 
his  associates  to  a  cruel  and  inhuman  enemy.  He  has 
the  mark  upon  his  forehead  ;  and  will  yet  be  found,  rec- 
ognised, and  punished  as  the  Judas  of  the  nineteenth 
century. 

"  Just  before  dark  we  were  ordered  to  form,  and  then 
Mexican  faith  began  to  show  itself.  While  we  were 
forming,  however,  the  treachery  of  Lewis  becoming 
apparent,  Colonel  Cooke  called  to  him,  and  in  the  hear- 
ing of  his  betrayed,  as  well  as  of  his  newly -found  associ- 
ates, denounced  him  in  language  which,  if  he  had  any 
soul  at  all,  must  have  reached  it.  He  reminded  him  of 
his  pledged  honour,  which  had  been  forgotten — of  his 
plighted  masonic  faith,  which  had  been  broken — and 
declared  that  but  for  him  his  former  associates  would 
have  died  in  the  ditch. 

"  After  we  were  formed,  our  knives,  watches,  and  in- 
deed every  article  of  personal  property  were  taken  from 
us,  together  with  all  our  baggage  except  one  blanket 
each.  We  were  then  formed  double  file,  marched 
nearer  the  rancho,  or  town,  and  then  encamped  for  the 
night  with  our  guards  all  around  us." 

Such  is  Lieutenant  Lubbock's  account  of  the  agency 
of  Lewis  in  inducing  the  surrender  of  his  former  friends 
and  companions.  The  same  officer  then  goes  on  to 
speak  of  the  arrival  of  Armijo  on  the  day  after  the  sur- 
render, saying  that  the  petty  tyrant  was  much  exasper- 
ated on  seeing  that  the  betrayed  prisoners  were  not  tied. 
By  his  orders  they  were  then  bound — four,  six,  or  eight 
together,  as  many  as  the  different  lariats  would  confine. 
The  cries  among  the  more  open  friends  of  Armijo,  du- 


EVENINGS   IN    PRISON.  327 

ring  this  operation,  were, "  Kill  them !  kill  them  !  Death 
to  the  Americans  /"  After  nightfall  a  consultation  was 
held  by  the  officers  more  immediately  in  the  interest  of 
Armijo,  and  directly  within  hearing  of  the  Texans,  as 
to  the  propriety  of  either  executing  them  all  upon  the 
spot  or  sending  them  forthwith  to  the  city  of  Mexico 
as  trophies  of  the  valour  of  the  New  Mexicans.  The 
party  in  favour  of  the  latter  course  prevailed  by  a  ma- 
jority of  only  one  vote ! 

The  day  following  that  on  which  Colonel  Cooke  and 
his  comrades  were  marched  through  San  Miguel,  we 
petitioned  the  old  alcalde  for  a  change  of  quarters,  the 
room  we  were  then  occupying,  although  comfortable  in 
every  other  respect,  being  so  completely  overrun  with 
chinches  and  other  vermin,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
sleep  at  night.  After  we  had  waited  with  great  impa- 
tience two  days,  and  passed  two  more  sleepless  nights, 
the  old  fellow  finally  procured  us  a  clean  and  comfort- 
able room  directly  on  the  plaza.  A  hint  from  Van 
Ness,  to  the  effect  that  Armijo  should  be  made  acquaint- 
ed with  the  kind  of  room  the  old  alcalde  had  furnished 
us,  probably  induced  that  functionary  to  hasten  our  re- 
moval. When  once  established  in  our  new  quarters, 
our  time  passed  more  agreeably.  Our  only  occupa- 
tions were  eating,  drinking,  sleeping,  chatting  with  the 
girls  who  made  us  daily  visits,  and  speculating  upon 
our  past  reverses,  our  present  position,  and  future  pros- 
pects. At  dark  we  would  build  a  fire,  for  the  evenings 
were  now  cool  among  the  mountains,  and  then  proba- 
bly spend  half  the  night  in  song  and  story.  Each  one 
of  our  little  party  had  a  checkered  experience  to  re- 
late, and  the  recital  of  some  ludicrous  adventure  would 
bring  forth  a  peal  of  uproarious  laughter,  much  to  the 
astonishment  of  the  little  knot  of  Mexicans  congregated 


328          INEFFICIENCY  OF  THE  GUARD. 

among  us,  who  could  not  conceive  how  prisoners,  in 
the  power  of  such  a  man  as  Armijo,  could  indulge  in 
such  boisterous  mirth.  For  myself.  I  must  say  that  I 
have  never  laughed  more  heartily  than  while  confined 
in  that  little  prison-house  on  the  plaza  of  San  Miguel ; 
and  could  our  anxious  friends  have  been  spirited  into 
that  wild  and  romantic  land,  and  permitted  to  eaves- 
drop under  the  walls  of  our  carcel  on  some  of  those 
evenings,  they  could  hardly  have  deemed  us  other  than 
a  party  of  merry  fellows  holding  a  jolly  carousal. 

But  with  all  this  hilarity,  thoughts  of  an  escape  fre- 
quently entered  our  minds.  The  members  of  our 
guard,  who  manifested  the  greatest  astonishment  at 
our  indifference  to  imprisonment,  we  could  at  any  time 
have  captured  and  tied,  and  with  their  bows  and  ar- 
rows, and  a  German  double-barrelled  gun  in  their  pos- 
session, we  could  next  have  taken  the  town  of  San  Mi- 
guel with  the  greatest  ease.  On  several  occasions,  so 
careless  was  the  guard,  we  made  trials  of  skill  with 
them  with  the  bow  and  arrow,  Major  Howard  beating 
the  best  of  them  at  a  game  which  may  be  considered 
their  own ;  but,  even  with  their  arms  in  our  possession, 
where  were  we  to  go?  Had  we  known  then,  what 
we  afterward  ascertained,  that  so  many  dreary  months 
of  toil  and  captivity  were  in  store  for  us ;  had  we  been 
aware  that  by  forced  marches  we  could  have  reached 
Bent's  Fort  in  three  or  four  days,  we  might  have  made 
the  attempt.  There  was  no  one,  however,  to  give  us 
advice,  no  friend  without  to  aid  us  in  an  undertaking  of 
the  kind,  we  knew  nothing  of  the  country,  and  thus 
were  we  compelled  to  give  up  all  thoughts  of  an  escape 
at  a  time  when  the  chances  of  its  successful  result  were 
altogether  in  our  favour.  With  the  knowledge  we  have 
since  gained,  I  doubt  whether  the  same  party  could  be 


A    SUCCESSION    OP    VISITERS.  329 

safely  kept  another  month  in  San  Miguel,  at  least  with 
so  weak  a  guard,  under  like  circumstances. 

We  had  been  but  a  week  in  our  new  quarters  before 
a  caravan  arrived  direct  from  St.  Louis,  owned  by  one 
of  the  Chavez  family,  a  rich  and  powerful  connexion  in 
New  Mexico.  Chavez  himself,  in  a  neat  buggy  wag- 
on, accompanied  his  men.  I  could  not  help  reflecting, 
while  gazing  at  him  in  the  plaza,  upon  the  difference  of 
treatment  he  had  experienced  in  the  United  States  from 
that  I  had  met  with  in  his  country,  knowing,  as  I  did, 
that  my  feelings  and  intentions  on  entering  the  latter 
were  precisely  the  same  as  his  on  first  setting  his  foot 
on  that  soil  where  I  claimed  citizenship.  I  would  cheer- 
fully have  endured  a  month's  extra  imprisonment  for  an 
opportunity  of  making  known  my  reflections  and  feel- 
ings to  Chavez  ;  but  this  might  not  be — he  did  not  come 
within  speaking  distance. 

Three  or  four  days  after  Chavez  passed  through  San 
Miguel,  another  caravan,  made  up  of  Americans  on 
their  way  to  California,  arrived  from  St.  Louis,  and 
after  resting  themselves  for  one  day,  again  took  their  de- 
parture for  their  new  homes  west  of  the  Rocky  Mount- 
ains. Anxious  as  we  were  to  converse  with  these  men, 
and  gather  news  of  the  world  without  from  which  we 
had  now  been  cut  off  more  than  four  months,  we  were 
forbidden  the  privilege.  The  alcalde  undoubtedly  had 
his  orders  not  to  allow  any  intercourse,  and  scrupulous- 
ly did  he  obey  them. 

Following  close  upon  the  heels  of  this  party  of 
Americans,  or  but  three  or  four  days  later,  came  still 
another  caravan,  belonging  to  Mr.  Samuel  Magoffin  a 
native  of  the  United  States,  but  at  this  time  a  merchant 
of  Chihuahua,  who  was  now  on  his  way  to  that  city 
with  more  than  forty  wagons  heavily  laden  with  goods.- 
E  E2 


330  PRISON   LUXURIES, 

Mr.  Magoffin  sent  us  word,  through  a  Mexican,  that 
he  had  had  an  interview  with  Armijo,  who  had  granted 
him  permission  to  visit  us ;  but  as  he  had  not  brought  a 
written  order  to  that  effect,  the  old  alcalde  would  not 
allow  him  even  to  approach  within  a  hundred  yards  of 
our  prison-house.  By  the  same  messenger  we  were 
informed  that  we  need  not  be  under  the  least  apprehen- 
sion for  our  lives ;  and  in  addition,  he  brought  the  posi- 
tive assurance  that  I  was  shortly  to  be  liberated,  the 
governor  not  having  any  charges  against  me,  and  not 
wishing  to  detain  me  after  the  termination  of  his  expe- 
dition against  the  party  of  Texans  now  approaching 
under  General  McLeod.  This  was  good  news ;  too 
good,  as  I  then  justly  thought,  to  be  true,  although  at 
that  time,  I  have  little  doubt,  Armijo  intended  to  give 
me  my  liberty,  and  would  have  done  so  had  it  not  been 
for  Lewis. 

From  Mr.  Magoffin  we  received  a  generous  supply 
of  coffee  and  tobacco,  luxuries  more  welcome  than  any- 
thing he  could  have  sent  us.  The  old  alcalde  furnished 
us  regularly  with  tortillas,  atole,  and  occasionally  with 
an  earthen  pot  of  boiled  mutton ;  but  as  we  had  saved 
our  money,  we  had  the  means  to  purchase  occasionally 
a  fat  sheep,  eggs,  good  bread,  and  any  little  necessary 
we  might  wish  for ;  and  now  that  we  had  coffee  and 
tobacco,  and  had  no  employment  save  the  dressing  and 
cooking  of  our  meals,  we  fared  most  sumptuously.  We 
contrived  to  manufacture  excellent  pipes  of  corn-cobs ; 
for  stems  we  were  indebted  to  a  monkey-faced  Mexi- 
can named  Juan  Sandobal,  who  brought  us  some 
branches  from  a  small  bush  growing  upon  the  river 
bank,  the  pith  of  which  could  be  easily  extracted.  This 
fellow  Sandobal  was  a  regular  loafer  in  and  about  our 
premises,  ready  at  any  time  to  mend  our  shoes,  run  on 


A   SERVICEABLE    FRIEND.  331 

errands,  wash  our  handkerchiefs,  or  play  us  a  rude  air 
on  a  cracked  mandolin  of  which  he  was  the  proprietor, 
and  all  "  for  a  consideration."  He  invariably  contrived 
to  cheat  us  in  every  transaction  we  had  with  him,  and 
we  as  invariably  made  it  a  point  to  tell  him  that  we 
considered  him  an  arrant  knave ;  yet  the  fellow  had 
made  one  trip  with  the  traders  to  St.  Louis,  spoke  some 
half  dozen  words  of  English,  and  as  he  had  associated 
on  the  road  with  Americans  in-  the  capacity  of  servant, 
made  bold  to  call  us  his  amigos,  or  particular  friends. 
There  was  no  such  thing  as  getting  rid  of  his  importu- 
nities :  hints  he  would  not  understand,  and  kicks  he  ap- 
peared to  look  upon  as  little  innocent  familiarities  be- 
tween intimates.  Our  principal  out-door  agent,  when 
his  time  was  not  otherwise  occupied,  was  Tomas  Bus- 
tamente,  the  same  personage  who  purchased  the  sheep 
for  us  on  the  morning  after  our  first  arrival  at  San  Mi- 
guel. Don  Tomas,  as  we  called  him,  was  always 
bringing  us  information  of  all  the  movements  of  Armijo, 
and  was  ready  at  any  time  to  make  up  a  story  in  case 
nothing  had  occurred  that  might  in  any  way  interest  us. 
For  us  he  always  manifested  the  greatest  friendship; 
and  as  he  was  a  specious,  honest-seeming,  and  open- 
countenanced  fellow,  accommodating  to  a  fault,  and 
with  far  more  integrity  than  Sandobal  even  pretended 
to,  to  him  we  always  intrusted  our  important  commis- 
sions. All  our  little  purchases  were  made  by  him ;  and 
with  such  scrupulous  exactness  did  he  give  us  the  price 
of  every  little  article  bought,  and  so  honestly  did  he  re- 
turn us  our  change  for  the  money  we  placed  in  his 
hands,  that  for  a  long  time  we  gave  him  credit  for  being 
a  perfect  rara  avis  among  the  lower  classes  in  New 
Mexico — an  honest  man.  But  an  unfortunate  accident 


332  A    SLIPPERY    MESSENGER. 

— unfortunate,  at  least,  for  Don  Tomas — completely 
overthrew  our  good  opinions  of  him. 

I  have  before  mentioned  that  an  American  merchant 
of  San  Miguel,  Mr.  Thomas  Rowland,  had  been  arrest- 
ed by  Armijo  about  the  time  when  Rowland  was  first 
taken,  and  that  his  goods  and  effects  had  been  confisca- 
ted. We  had  been  confined  but  a  couple  of  weeks  be- 
fore Rowland  was  released,  his  effects  were  given  up 
to  him,  and  he  had  once  more  opened  his  store.  Some 
half  dozen  times  a  day  our  countryman  passed  within  a 
few  yards  of  our  prison,  yet  was  not  allowed  to  com- 
municate with  us  by  word,  or  even  gesture.  We  knew 
the  circumstances  of  his  arrest,  and  the  constraints  un- 
der which  he  laboured;  yet  I  am  confident  we  were 
indebted  to  Rowland  for  many  little  favours,  and  I  have 
little  doubt  that  he  sent  us  many  luxuries  which  never 
reached  us,  all  through  the  rascality  of  Tomas  Busta- 
mente.  The  little  circumstance,  which  brought  this 
fellow  out  in  his  true  colours,  I  will  here  relate. 

Hearing  that  our  former  companion,  Lewis,  was  at  a 
rancho  but  a  few  leagues  distant,  and  not  knowing  at 
this  time  of  his  traitorous  conduct.  Van  Ness  and  How- 
ard despatched  Bustamente  to  see  him,  in  the  hope  that 
we  might  gain  news,  or  at  least  obtain  a  change  of 
linen,  our  entire  wardrobe  now  consisting  simply  of 
what  we  had  upon  our  backs.  As  a  token  that  Van 
Ness  had  sent  this  fellow,  he  placed  a  ring  upon  his 
finger  which  Lewis  well  knew,  and  which  would  con- 
vince him  that  there  was  no  deceit  in  the  transaction. 
This  was  early  in  the  morning.  At  night  our  agent 
returned  unsuccessful  from  his  mission,  saying  that  he 
had  been  unable  to  find  Lewis  or  obtain  our  much-need- 
ed supply.  While  we  were  regretting  the  unsuccessful 
termination  of  an  attempt  which  we  had  fondly  hoped 


THE    VIRTUES   OF    A   PIPE. 

would  give  each  of  us  a  clean  shirt,  if  nothing  more, 
Don  Tomas  casually  remarked  that  the  Senora  Row- 
land had  accidentally  seen  the  ring  sent  by  Van  Ness, 
and  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  it,  at  the  same  time  de- 
siring him  to  ask  whether  it  could  be  disposed  of,  and 
the  price.  So  plausible  was  this  story,  that  not  one  of 
us  suspected  fraud  ;  and  as  it  was  impossible  to  sell  the 
ring,  valuable  as  it  was,  to  one  who  had  constantly  been 
sending  us  many  little  delicacies,  it  was  at  once  de- 
spatched to  her  as  a  present,  accompanied  by  the  usual 
ceremonious  compliments.  This  little  incident  over, 
nothing  more  was  thought  of  the  ring,  and  we  filled  our 
pipes  and  began  smoking  and  talking  over  the  unfortu- 
nate result  of  our  mission  to  Lewis. 

Than  our  pipe — our  homely,  oblivious  pipe — we  found 
no  greater  solace  during  the  many  hours  of  affliction. 
Far  be  it  from  me  to  say  that  any  pipe  is  preferable  to 
a  cool,  finely-flavoured  Havana,  or  that  I  esteem  it  un- 
der ordinary  circumstances  ;  but  in  a  time  of  adversity 
and  trial,  when  the  mind  has  no  employment  but  to 
brood  over  unavoidable  misfortunes,  there  is  more  real 
comfort,  more  forgetfulness  of  the  present,  to  be  drawn 
from  even  a  cob  pipe,  well  filled  with  Virginia  tobacco, 
than  from  any  cigar  that  has  ever  been  twisted  since 
the  day  when  Sir  Walter  Raleigh  was  supposed  by  his 
servant  to  be  on  fire,  and  deluged  with  a  flood  of  cold 
water.  If  any  of  my  readers  do  not  credit  this  asser- 
tion, let  them  ask  old  campaigners,  those  who  have  had 
abundant  experience,  and  from  whose  judgment  there 
is  no  appeal — in  the  woods.  I  know  that  I  have  drawn 
much  solid  comfort  from  a  pipe,  and  puffed  away  many 
weary  hours  of  captivity. 

The  evening  following  the  return  of  Don  Tomas  from 
his  unsuccessful  trip,  one  of  our  female  visitors  remarked 


334  THE    ROGUE   DETECTED. 

that  the  ring  Sefiora  Bustamente  had  received  from  Van 
Ness  was  a  beautiful  present,  and  that  she  was  so  ex- 
tremely proud  of  it  that  she  was  showing  it  about  among 
all  her  acquaintances !  Here  was  a  discovery,  and  it 
is  almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  after  this  Don  Tomas 
fell  most  essentially  in  our  esteem.  We  did  not  let  him 
know,  however,  that  we  had  detected  him  in  his  little 
swindling  operation.  He  was  useful  in  doing  errands, 
and  probably  took  as  little  toll  out  of  our  money  as  any 
of  the  natives  would  have  done.  His  delinquency,  too, 
taught  us  all  a  useful  lesson — it  proved  to  us  that  the 
most  specious  and  honest-seeming  among  this  class  of 
Mexicans  had  their  tricks  and  failings,  and  that  the  best 
men  among  them  were  worthy  of  close  watching. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

\rrival  of  a  Party  of  our  Companions  as  Prisoners. — Great  Excitement  in 
San  Miguel. — Recognition  of  our  Friends,  and  their  Departure. — Don  An- 
tonio Baca. — Attachment  of  one  of  his  Daughters  for  a  Texan  Prisoner. — 
"  Old  Paint"  Caldwell  and  Nine  of  his  Men  brought  in  Prisoners. — Still 
greater  Excitement  in  San  Miguel. — The  Patron  Saint  brought  from  his 
Niche  in  the  Church. — A  Mexican  Procession. — A  funny  Figure. — Pro- 
gramme of  the  Procession. — An  old  Priest  with  queer  Spectacles. — A  Pair 
of  Musicians. — More  of  San  Miguel,  the  Patron  Saint. — End  of  the  Pro- 
cession.— Startling  Information. — Bustamente  informs  us  that  all  our  Com- 
rades have  been  taken  Prisoners. — Great  Rejoicing  in  San  Miguel. — Gen- 
eral McLeod  and  other  Texans  brought  into  the  Plaza. — Mr.  Falconer. — 
Arrival  of  all  the  Prisoners. — Dreadful  Appearance  of  the  Texans. — Lewis 
arrives. — News  that  the  Author  is  to  be  liberated. — Division  of  the  Spoils. 
— Agency  of  Lewis  in  the  Transaction. — A  Visit  from  Lewis. — More  of 
his  Treachery  and  Rascality. — His  Departure  for  Santa  Fe. — A  veritable 
History  of  Don  Manuel  Armijo,  from  his  Youth  upward,  being  a  short  but 
faithful  Narrative  of  his  thieving,  gambling,  assassinating,  and  other  base 
Acts  and  Propensities. 

WE  had  now  whiled  away  some  eighteen  or  twenty 
days  in  our  prison-house  at  San  Miguel,  and  were  anx- 
iously awaiting  news  of  General  McLeod's  party  and 


FELLOW-CAPTIVES.  335 

of  Armijo's  success  with  this  second  band  of  Texans, 
when  Bustamente  came  hurriedly  into  our  apartment, 
just  as  we  had  finished  a  late  breakfast,  and  informed 
us  that  three  or  four  of  our  companions  had  been  taken, 
and  were  then  coming  into  the  town.  A  crowd  of 
women,  girls,  and  boys,  congregated  upon  the  neigh- 
bouring housetops  and  around  the  door  of  the  alcalde 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza,  soon  convinced  us  that 
something  had  occurred  to  disturb  the  ordinary  quiet 
which  reigned  in  San  Miguel. 

We  hurried  through  the  door  of  our  room  to  a  little 
porch,  which  was  our  prison  limits,  anxiously  eyeing 
every  figure  within  view  to  see  if  we  could  discover 
an  acquaintance.  Soon  a  small  cavalcade  of  ragged 
Mexicans,  guarding  two  mules,  upon  each  of  which  a 
couple  of  men  were  packed,  were  seen  turning  the  cor- 
ner of  a  street  leading  into  the  plaza — the  same  street 
by  which  we  had  first  entered  the  town.  At  first  we 
were  not  near  enough  to  distinguish  the  faces  of  the  pris- 
oners, but  after  they  had  been  halted  at  the  door  of  the 
alcalde  we  made  them  out  to  be  Lieutenants  Scott  and 
Burgess,  young  John  Howard,  a  brother  of  the  major 
who  was  a  prisoner  with  us,  and  the  Mexican  servant 
named  Matias,  whom  Colonel  Cooke  had  sent  back  to 
the  prairies,  from  the  Angosturas,  with  the  guide  to 
conduct  General  McLeod  to  the  settlements.  We 
bowed  to  our  friends,  and  made  signs  and  gestures  that 
we  knew  and  would  like  to  converse  with  them  ;  they 
returned  our  distant  salutations  in  kind,  but  farther  in- 
tercourse than  this  was  not  allowed  by  our  guards. 
After  remaining  a  short  time  at  the  alcalde's,  our  friends 
were  sent  to  a  rancho  some  three  miles  from  San  Mi- 
guel, and  there  quartered  in  the  family  of  a  kind-heart- 
ed old  Mexican,  named  Don  Antonio  Baca,  a  man  who 


336  MEXICAN    LADY   IN    LOVE. 

had  frequently  visited  us  during  our  imprisonment,  and 
who  had  never  called  without  bringing  us  eggs  or 
some  little  delicacy.  Although  we  had  been  denied 
the  satisfaction  of  conversing  with  our  friends,  and 
learning  something  of  their  own  movements  and  the 
position  and  prospects  of  the  main  party,  it  was  still  a 
source  of  congratulation  to  know  that  excellent  quar- 
ters had  been  provided  for  them.  Don  Antonio  had 
two  or  three  daughters,  pretty,  and  accomplished  too, 
for  that  country ;  we  afterward  learned  that  one  of 
them  formed  an  ardent  attachment — fell  in  love,  in 
more  common  parlance — with  one  of  our  young  friends, 
and  was  affected  even  to  tears  and  hysterics  when  he 
was  ordered  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  It  is  said  that  no 
attachment  can  be  stronger,  no  love  more  enduring, 
than  that  of  the  better-informed  Mexican  doncella, 
when  once  her  heart  is  touched  by  the  blue  eyes,  light 
hair,  and  fair  complexion  of  some  roving  Anglo-Saxon. 
She  may  not  "  live  and  love  forever,"  as  did  a  certain 
maid  mentioned  by  some  poet ;  but  she  loves  as  long 
as  she  lives,  and  that  is  long  enough  in  all  reason. 

A  day  or  two  after  the  party  of  Texans  I  have  just 
referred  to  were  conducted  through  the  town,  another 
party,  numbering  ten,  also  arrived.  They  were  prison- 
ers, and  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  quartered  at  the 
house  of  our  old  friend  Vigil,  the  man  who  had  saved 
our  lives  when  we  were  first  captured  by  Salezar.  We 
did  not  see  this  party,  but  from  descriptions  given  us  of 
their  leader  by  our  guard  and  the  girls  who  visited  us, 
we  felt  confident  he  could  be  no  other  than  "  Old  Paint" 
Caldwell,  the  well-known  leader  of  our  spy  company, 
and  in  this  conjecture  we  were  not  wrong.  Bustamen- 
te  informed  us  that  they  had  been  taken  prisoners  by  a 
large  party  of  Mexicans  south  of  the  Angosturas,  and 


A    SAINT    IN    MASaUERADE.  337 

that  the  main  body  of  the  Texans  was  rapidly  approach- 
ing. We  at  once  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  two 
small  parties  of  our  friends,  now  in  prison  near  us,  had 
been  sent  on  in  advance,  and,  as  in  our  case,  had  been 
overpowered  by  numbers,  and  forced  to  give  up  their 
arms. 

A  most  unwonted  excitement  was  now  created  in 
San  Miguel.  The  rumours  rife  among  the  people  were, 
that  the  much-dreaded  Texans,  whom  Armijo  had  taught 
them  to  look  upon  as  so  many  bloodthirsty  cannibals, 
were  advancing  in  countless  numbers,  threatening  the 
country  with  fire,  devastation,  and  the  sword.  The 
wax  figure  of  the  patron  saint  of  the  place,  San  Miguel, 
or  St.  Michael  as  it  is  rendered  in  the  English,  was 
dragged  from  his  niche  in  the  little  church,  mounted 
upon  a  large  platform,  and  carried  about  in  procession. 
A  more  comical  figure  than  this  same  San  Miguel  it 
would  be  difficult  either  to  imagine  or  discover.  I  can- 
not say  that  his  saintship  had  ever  been  tarred,  but  he 
had  certainly  been  feathered  from  head  to  foot.  From 
his  shoulders  hung  listlessly  a  pair  of  huge,  ill-constructed 
wings,  his  face  was  that  of  a  large  doll,  while  his  head, 
to  complete  the  ludicrous  tout  ensemble,  was  covered 
with  a  lace  cap  of  the  fashion  of  our  grandmothers. 
Another  figure,  intended  to  represent  the  Virgin,  but 
nothing  more  than  a  doll  of  the  largest  size,  was  carried 
in  state  upon  the  same  platform,  and  over  all  was  a  can- 
opy of  faded  yellow  and  pink  satin,  trimmed  with  fringe, 
spangles,  and  tassels.  The  platform  rested  upon  a  litter 
formed  of  two  long  poles,  upon  which  were  nailed  cross- 
pieces,  and  into  these  cross-pieces  were  inserted  four 
loose,  rickety  legs,  hardly  firm  enough  to  sustain  the 
wax  and  feathers,  satin  and  spangles,  which  reclined 
above  them.  Whenever  the  procession  was  about  to 

VCL.   I.— F  F 


338  AN    ODD   PROCESSION. 

move,  the  entire  fabric  would  be  lifted  from  the  ground, 
and  the  ends  of  the  poles  placed  upon  the  shoulders  of 
four  men. 

I  will  endeavour  to  give  my  readers  a  programme  of 
this  singular  procession.  First  came  an  old,  baldhead- 
ed  priest,  a  coarse,  dirty  blanket  tied  about  him  with  a 
piece  of  rope,  an  open  prayer-book  in  his  hand,  a  rude 
wooden  cross  hanging  from  his  neck,  and  a  pair  of 
spectacles  on  his  nose  which  my  companions  at  first 
insisted  were  leather,  but  which  afterward  proved  to 
be  of  glass,  about  the  size  of  common  teacups,  and  set 
in  wide  rims  of  buifalo  horn.  Following  close  at  the 
heels  of  this  odd  figure  came  our  particular  friend,  Juan 
Sandobal,  strumming  his  crazy  mandolin,  and  digging 
from  it  the  only  tune  within  his  musical  scope.  By 
hit  side  walked  a  brother  artist,  zealously  sawing  away 
upon  a  rusty  violin,  the  softest  tone  from  which  would 
have  set  Ole  Bull  or  Wallace  raving  mad.  As  each 
of  these  performers  knew  but  one  tune,  and  as  both 
were  playing  at  the  same  time,  the  reader  who  may 
have  an  ear  to  detect  a  crack  in  a  piece  of  china  by  the 
ring  can  easily  imagine  the  effect  produced  by  such  a 
mixture  of  anything  but  sweet  sounds.  On  either  side 
of  the  musicians,  as  flankers,  walked  half  a  score  of 
ragged,  dirty-faced  urchins ;  then  came  the  four  men 
bearing  the  car,  the  patron  saint  in  a  sitting  posture  in 
front,  and  his  head,  either  from  being  hung  on  a  pivot 
or  from  having  become  loose  in  some  way,  bowing  and 
bobbing  to  the  multitude  like  the  figures  of  Chinese 
mandarins  in  some  of  the  tea-shops.  Nothing  could  be 
more  grotesque  and  laughable  than  this  comical  head 
of  St.  Michael,  enveloped  in  an  oldfashioned  lady's 
cap,  and  rising  and  falling  with  every  motion  of  the  car 
upon  which  it  was  borne.  On  the  same  platform,  and 


TRIALS   OP   GRAVITY.  339 

immediately  behind  the  figure  I  have  just  described, 
stood  the  Virgin,  dressed  in  pink  satin  and  spangles,  as 
stiff  and  inanimate  as  wood  and  wax  could  make  lier. 
In  the  rear  of  the  car  followed  the  women,  children, 
and  rabble  generally  of  the  town,  the  faces  of  a  major- 
ity of  the  girls  stained,  either  with  vermilion  or  the 
juice  of  some  red  berry,  and  many  of  them  presenting 
an  appearance  truly  hideous. 

At  different  points  of  the  plaza  the  procession  would 
halt,  the  bearers  of  the  car  would  set  down  their  bur- 
den, and  all  would  kneel  and  cross  themselves  while 
the  old  priest  read  a  sentence  from  the  open  book  be- 
fore him.  One  of  the  principal  stopping-places  appear- 
ed to  be  directly  in  front  of  our  little  window,  and  sol- 
emn as  the  affair  was  intended  to  be,  it  was  impossible 
for  us  to  retain  our  gravity  with  two  such  figures  as 
the  old  priest  and  the  patron  saint  staring  us  in  the 
face.  Those  huge  spectacles  of  the  former  alone  would 
have  drawn  a  smile  from  the  gloomiest  misanthrope 
that  ever  lived ;  and  then  the  comical  aspect  of  the 
droll  figure  of  San  Miguel  —  waggish  in  more  ways 
than  one,  for  while  it  wagged  its  head  it  also  had  a 
quaint  and  knowing  leer  about  its  eyes — whenever 
this  counterfeit  presentment  of  the  saint  was  brought 
fairly  in  sight,  we  lost  our  gravity  entirely,  and  were 
compelled  to  turn  aside  to  conceal  our  laughter. 

After  the  procession  had  knelt  in  front  of  our  prison, 
the  old  priest  would  call  upon  every  saint  in  the  calen- 
dar in  general,  and  San  Miguel  in  particular,  to  aid  the 
populace  against,  and  protect  them  from,  the  vile  horde 
of  heretics  and  barbarians  marching  against  their  coun- 
try. All  would  then  respond  by  crossing  themselves 
and  giving  utterance  to  groans,  the  band  would  next 
strike  up,  and  the  procession  then  move  slowly  to  some 


340  MORE    REJOICINGS. 

other  point,  there  to  repeat  the  same  ceremony.  In 
this  way  the  time  passed,  from  the  day  on  which  the  ten 
prisoners  alluded  to  a  few  pages  back  arrived  at  San 
Miguel,  to  the  9th  of  October. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  our 
guard  gave  us  the  startling  information  that  all  the 
Texans  had  been  captured  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Lagu- 
na  Colorada,  or  Red  Lake,  a  body  of  water  some  thirty 
or  forty  miles  south  of  the  Angosturas.  At  first  we 
could  not  believe  this  news,  but  it  was  soon  confirmed 
by  the  ringing  of  bells,  general  congratulations  and  re- 
joicings, and  by  a  grand  procession  in  honour  of  the 
victory.  Again  was  the  patron  saint  of  the  town 
mounted  on  the  car,  accompanied  by  the  ever-attend- 
ant Virgin,  and  borne  about  in  triumph  through  the 
plaza  and  all  the  principal  streets.  Nothing  could  ex- 
ceed the  joy  and  enthusiasm  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
only  gun  in  the  place — the  double-barrelled  German  af- 
fair I  have  already  mentioned,  and  which  had  been 
used  to  guard  and  terrify  us — was  now  brought  into  re- 
quisition to  give  greater  spirit  to  the  rejoicing.  The 
fellow  who  had  charge  of  this  piece  followed  in  the 
rear  of  the  ragged  rabble  which  formed  the  procession, 
and,  as  fast  as  he  could  load  and  fire,  kept  up  an  inces- 
sant cracking  and  banging,  much  to  the  delight,  in  par- 
ticular, of  a  troop  of  graceless  urchins,  who  hovered 
about  him  on  the  march.  At  each  of  the  four  corners, 
and  at  each  of  the  four  sides  of  the  plaza,  did  the  pro- 
cession stop,  kneel  down,  and  publicly  thank  San  Mi- 
guel for  thus  keeping  his  charge  out  of  the  hands  of 
heretics,  and  all  this  while  the  comical  image,  now  ar- 
rayed with  an  extra  load  of  furbelows,  feathers,  and 
finery,  bowed  his  acknowledgments  to  the  crowd  of 


MORE    PRISONERS.  341 

ragged  worshippers  in  a  style  which  would  have  done 
credit  to  any  merry-andrew. 

Scarcely  were  these  nonsensical  mummeries  over, 
before  General  McLeod  and  Mr.  Navarro,  with  some 
ten  or  fifteen  Texan  officers  and  servants,  were  escort- 
ed under  a  strong  guard  into  the  plaza,  and  placed  for 
safe-keeping  in  the  old  quartel  we  had  occupied  on  the 
day  when  Rowland  and  his  comrades  were  shot.  Mr. 
Falconer  was  seen  in  this  little  party  by  all  of  us,  and 
although  grieved  to  see  him  in  plight  so  gloomy,  I 
was  still  rejoiced  to  notice  that  he  was  in  good  health. 
Some  of  the  members  of  this  small  party  of  prisoners 
were  continually  passing  and  repassing  our  room,  with- 
in twenty  yards  of  us,  on  their  way  to  the  river  for 
water ;  they  recognised  and  bowed  to  us  as  they  pass- 
ed, but  we  were  not  allowed  to  communicate  with 
them  in  any  way,  and  were  consequently  kept  in  igno- 
rance of  the  terms  of  their  surrender,  and  the  disposi- 
tion that  was  to  be  made  of  them. 

On  the  12th  of  October,  two  days  after,  the  rest  of 
the  Texan  prisoners,  more  than  a  hundred  and  fifty  in 
number,  were  marched  into  the  plaza.  Worn  down 
and  emaciated  by  hunger  and  fatigue,  their  pale  and 
haggard  countenances  showed  but  too  plainly  that  they 
had  suffered  dreadfully  after  we  left  them  on  the  Palo 
Duro.  The  clothing  of  many  of  these  poor  fellows 
consisted  of  but  a  shirt  and  pair  of  pantaloons,  and  the 
single  blanket  which  had  been  left  them  by  the  brave 
and  "  honourable"  Armijo  was  the  poorest  they  were 
the  possessors  of  at  the  time  of  their  capture.  They 
were  all  taken  to  a  room  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
square,  and  then  huddled  in  like  so  many  sheep  in  a 
butcher's  pen ! 

Scarcely  were  these  unfortunate  men  driven  into 
F  F2 


342  ASSURANCES   OF   FREEDOM. 

their  close  and  uncomfortable  quarters  before  Lewis, 
well  mounted  and  extremely  well  dressed,  rode  up  to 
our  quarters,  and  took  lodgings  in  the  same  house  in 
which  we  were  confined,  although  in  a  different  room. 
He  bowed  to  us  as  he  passed  our  window,  said  that 
"  all  was  right,"  and  remarked  that  he  would  call  and 
see  us  in  a  short  time.  The  day  wore  away,  however, 
without  his  fulfilling  his  promise,  although  he  passed 
within  a  few  yards  of  us  several  times.  There  appear- 
ed to  be  a  sneaking  and  uneasy  expression  about  the 
fellow,  which  we  all  remarked ;  yet  we  could  hardly 
believe  that  he  had  been  playing  a  traitorous  or  unman- 
ly game. 

After  dark,  on  the  same  day,  Bustamente  came  into 
our  room,  and  declared,  positively,  that  I  was  to  be 
released  by  Armijo  so  soon  as  all  the  prisoners  had 
been  sent  off  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  that  being  their 
destination.  This  information  he  had  from  the  princi- 
pal priest  of  San  Miguel,  who  has  the  reputation,  among 
the  Americans,  of  being  an  honest  and  worthy  man. 
From  what  Bustamente  could  learn,  by  listening  to  the 
conversations  of  the  officers  attached  to  the  staff  of  the 
governor,  he  was  of  opinion  that  Howard,  Van  Ness, 
and  Fitzgerald,  my  three  companions,  would  be  taken 
by  Armijo  to  Santa  Fe,  and  shortly  liberated.  The 
same  story  was  told  by  several  Mexicans  who  visited 
us  during  the  evening — that  I  was  to  be  liberated  was 
certain. 

On  the  following  morning  the  wagons — the  same 
wagons  with  which  we  had  set  out,  more  than  four 
months  before,  from  Austin — were  drawn  up  in  line  in 
the  plaza  of  San  Miguel,  and  immediate  preparations 
were  made  for  dividing  the  goods  of  the  Texan  mer- 
chants. As  the  merchandise  was  unloaded,  Lewis  was 


THE    TRAITOR    LEWIS.  343 

seen  by  all  of  us  standing  by  the  side  of  Armijo,  and 
frequently  pointing  out  a  box  or  bale  of  goods,  which 
was  placed  in  a  large  pile,  apparently  for  him.  All  the 
while  he  appeared  to  be  on  excellent  and  most  sociable 
terms  with  the  governor  and  the  Mexican  officers,  and 
was  plainly  seen  and  heard  laughing  and  joking  with 
them.  How  the  abandoned  man  could  carry  out  his 
villany,  and  act  thus  in  the  very  faces,  as  it  were,  of 
his  betrayed  associates,  is  a  mystery  to  me. 

The  distribution  of  the  goods  continued  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  day,  each  company  of  the  valorous  war- 
riors of  Armijo  receiving  a  share  of  the  plunder  in  pro- 
portion to  the  time  they  had  been  in  service  against 
the  Texans.  In  the  mean  time,  four  of  our  men,  a  gun- 
smith, a  blacksmith,  a  musician,  and  the  hospital  stew- 
ard of  the  expedition,  were  liberated  by  Armijo,  and 
from  our  window  we  could  see  them  walking  about  at 
liberty.  They  were  not  allowed  to  communicate  with 
us,  however,  in  any  way.  The  governor  wanted  the 
services  of  these  men — his  only  reason  for  giving  them 
their  liberty. 

Lewis  frequently  passed  our  window  on  the  14th  and 
15th  of  the  month,  but  not  once  did  he  offer  to  speak  to 
us,  although  he  always  bowed  as  he  went  by.  That 
the  man  had  been  acting  badly  we  had  now  little  doubt, 
but  the  extent  of  his  treachery  was  far  from  being  sus- 
pected. After  dusk  of  the  last-mentioned  day  a  nephew 
of  Armijo  called  in  to  see  us.  He  spoke  of  my  release 
as  a  measure  fully  determined  on  by  his  uncle,  and  also 
gave  it  as  his  opinion  that  my  three  companions  would 
be  set  free. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning,  and  for 
the  first  and  only  time,  Lewis  entered  our  room.  There 
was  a  hang-dog  expression,  if  I  ma  f  so  call  it,  about 


344  HIS    PLAUSIBILITY. 

him,  which  denoted  that  he  had  committed  some  ,  «<.  in- 
action, and  it  seemed  as  if  he  could  not  look  one  of  us 
in  the  face.  He,  however,  tried  to  convince  us  that  he 
was  glad  at  having  an  opportunity,  at  last,  of  calling  to 
bid  us  good-by,  assuming  an  openness  and  frankness  of 
demeanour  which  but  ill  became  him.  Howard  asked 
him  how  it  happened  that  the  two  main  parties  of  Tex- 
ans  had  surrendered  without  firing  a  single  shot,  to 
which  Lewis  gave  an  evasive  and  stammering  reply. 
He  was  then  asked  by  what  means  he  had  been  fortu- 
nate enough  to  obtain  his  liberty :  a  question  he  an- 
swered by  saying  that  the  governor,  for  some  reason 
unknown  to  him,  had  given  him  his  release  without  his 
even  asking  for  it.  He  then  added  that  I  was  to  be 
set  free  on  the  following  morning ;  and,  after  telling  my 
companions  that  he  had  already  made  every  endeavour 
to  procure  their  release,  and  that  he  would  have  one 
more  interview  with  Armijo  upon  the  subject,  he  hur- 
riedly shook  hands  with  each  of  us  and  departed.  Five 
minutes  afterward,  as  we  learned  from  several  visitors, 
he  was  on  his  way  to  Santa  Fe,  without  having  gone 
near  the  governor. 

It  may  appear  singular  to  many  of  my  readers,  that 
we  did  not  at  once  suspect  Lewis  of  having  played  a 
treacherous  game,  especially  with  the  evidence  that  the 
party  under  Colonel  Cooke  had  not  made  even  a  show 
of  resistance  ;  but  they  should  recollect  that  we  were 
entirely  cut  off  from  all  direct  communication,  and  also 
that  Lewis  bore  an  excellent  reputation,  and  was  uni- 
versally esteemed  by  all.  Under  these  circumstances 
they  will  feel  that  we  must  have  been  slow  to  harbour 
suspicion  against  him.  It  is  hard  to  suspect  one  with 
whom  we  have  long  associated  on  terms  of  intimacy, 
whose  life  has  been  unstained  by  a  single  bad  act,  of  the 
blackest  crime  in  the  catalogue. 


HIS    UTTEE    WORTHLESSNESS.  345 

On  the  night  before  Lewis's  departure  for  Santa  Fe, 
a  young  Mexican  called  at  our  room  and  inquired  the 
value  of  several  gold  pieces  in  his  possession,  among 
them  English  sovereigns,  French  twenty-franc  pieces, 
and  different  American  coins.  He  spoke  broken  Eng- 
lish, and  we  afterward  ascertained  that  Lewis  had  rec- 
ommended him  to  some  of  ouf  poor  prisoners  as  a  trust- 
worthy fellow.  They  had  given  him  this  money,  a  pit- 
tance they  had  contrived  to  secrete  when  they  were 
searched  and  robbed  by  Armijo,  on  his  promising  that 
he  would  procure  them  small  silver  change  for  it.  The 
young  scoundrel,  with  all  this  money  in  his  pockets,  left 
for  Santa  Fe  the  next  morning  in  company  with  Lewis 
— par  nobile  fratrwn. 

Another  circumstance  has  been  related  to  me  by  the 
sufferers  themselves,  which  goes  to  show  that  to  treach- 
ery Lewis  added  the  most  pitiful  swindling.  Two  mem- 
bers of  the  expedition,  one  of  them  named  Farley,  and 
belonging  to  the  company  of  which  Lewis  was  captain, 
the  other  a  Mr.  Houghtaling,  a  merchant,  had  succeed- 
ed, during  the  search  made  at  the  time  of  the  surrender, 
in  secreting  their  watches,  both  of  them  valuable.  With 
this  fact  Lewis  became  acquainted,  and  just  before  start- 
ing for  Santa  Fe  he  called  upon  his  quondam  friends, 
and  said  that  he  would  take  their  watches  and  sell  them 
for  a  heavy  sum.  He  said  they  would  need  the  money 
on  the  road,  and  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  them  to 
dispose  of  the  watches  after  leaving  San  Miguel,  but 
that,  on  the  contrary,  they  would  lose  them  if  the  Mex- 
icans should  by  chance  discover  them  about  their  per- 
sons. Farley  was  an  intimate  friend  of  the  scoundrel, 
and  gave  him  his  watch  with  little  hesitation.  Hough- 
taling did  the  same.  That  was  the  last  they  saw  of 
their  property. 


346  HISTORY   OF   AEMIJO. 

One  other  circumstance  illustrative  of  his  character, 
and  I  have  done  with  Lewis  for  the  present.  While 
at  Chihuahua,  on  our  march  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  I  saw 
a  copy  of  La  Luna,  a  small  paper  published  there.  It 
contained  a  letter  from  Armijo  to  Garcia  Conde,  gov- 
ernor of  Chihuahua,  in  which,  after  stating  that  he  had 
been  successful  in  capturing  all  the  Texans,  he  added : 
"  In  consideration  of  the  great  service  rendered  by  Cap- 
tain W.  P.  Lewis,  in  assisting  me  to  capture  these  Tex- 
ans, I  have  given  him  his  liberty  and  his  goods,  and 
earnestly  recommend  him  to  the  notice  of  the  Central 
Government."  When  it  is  known  that  all  the  goods 
Lewis  had  with  him  he  could  carry  in  his  hat,  it  is  more 
than  probable  that  the  governor  hired  him  to  claim  a 
large  portion  of  the  merchandise,  which  he  afterward 
divided  with  him,  and  thus  defrauded  the  government, 
to  which  he  was  obliged  to  render  an  account  of  all  the 
spoils  taken. 

The  history  of  this  petty,  yet  most  absolute  and  des- 
potic monarch,  Armijo,  is  singular,  and  as  I  happen  to 
have  the  materials  at  hand,  no  matter  to  him  how  ob- 
tained, I  will  here  present  my  readers  with  a  brief  yet 
truthful  sketch  of  his  career,  from  his  boyhood  upward. 
However  much  he  may  be  amazed  at  seeing  his  own 
history  in  veritable  print,  he  cannot  but  acknowledge 
that  I  have  done  him  ample  justice — that  his  portrait  is 
drawn  with  strict  fidelity  in  every  particular. 

Manuel  Armijo,  the  subject  of  the  present  memoir,  as 
the  story-books  commence,  was  born  of  low  and  dis- 
reputable parents  at  or  near  Albuquerque,  a  town  of  no 
inconsiderable  importance  some  sixty  miles  south  of 
Santa  Fe.  From  his  earliest  childhood  his  habits  were 
bad.  He  commenced  his  career  by  petty  pilfering,  and 
as  he  advanced  in  years  extended  his  operations  until 


A   SHEEP-STEALER. 

they  grew  into  important  larcenies.  While  yet  a  youth, 
he  carried  on  an  extensive  business  in  sheep-stealing, 
admitted,  I  believe,  to  be  the  lowest  species  of  robbery ; 
yet  so  lucrative  did  the  young  Armijo  find  the  business, 
that  in  his  own  neighbourhood  he  gave  it  a  tone  of  re- 
spectability,  A  wealthy  haciendero,  or  large  plantation 
owner,  in  the  vicinity  of  Albuquerque,  named  Francisco 
Chavez,  suffered  not  a  little  from  the  exceedingly  liberal 
system  of  helping  himself  adopted  by  the  embryo  gov- 
ernor. Chavez  possessed  his  thousands  and  tens  of 
thousands  of  sheep,  large  numbers  of  which  he  yearly 
drove  to  the  southern  cities  of  Mexico,  and  there  dispo- 
sed of  for  ready  cash.  At  home,  his  business  was  io 
purchase  at  reduced  prices  all  the  sheep  offered  by  his 
poorer  neighbours,  and  so  numerous  were  his  flocks  that 
he  could  not  mark,  much  less  recognise,  one  tenth  of 
what  he  possessed.  Yet  he  always  employed  shepherds 
to  watch  his  flocks,  and  used  every  precaution  in  his 
power  to  prevent  his  sheep  from  straying  or  being  stolen. 
But  to  guard  against  a  person  of  young  Armijo's  tact 
and  perseverance  was  impossible.  The  scape-grace 
would  enter  his  flocks  while  the  shepherds  were  asleep, 
or  suborn  them  if  awake,  and  by  much  shrewd  artifice 
contrived  to  levy  a  continual  and  profitable  tax  upon 
the  substance  of  the  elderly  haciendero.  The  animals 
thus  stolen,  in  good  time  would  be  sold  for  cash  to  their 
rightful  but  unsuspecting  owner,  and  thus  it  sometimes 
happened  that  Armijo  would  re-steal  and  re-sell,  time 
after  time,  the  same  identical  sheep.  Up  to  this  day, 
when  among  his  intimate  friends,  General  Manuel  Ar- 
mijo boastingly  relates  the  exploit  of  having  sold  to 
"  Old  Chavez"  the  same  ewe  fourteen  different  times, 
and  of  having  stolen  her  from  him  even  in  the  first  in- 
stance. By  this  means,  and  by  having  what  is  termed 


348  LEADER    OF   AN    INSURRECTION. 

a  good  run  of  luck  at  dealing  monte,  he  amassed  no  in- 
considerable fortune,  and  as  his  ambition  now  led  him 
to  learn  to  read  and  write,  the  foundation  of  his  future 
influence  and  greatness  among  his  timid  and  ignorant 
countrymen  was  substantially  laid. 

As  it  would  fill  a  volume  to  trace  all  Armijo's  steps> 
I  will  at  once  jump  from  the  sheep-folds  of  Chavez  and 
the  monte  table,  and  take  him  up  again  after  he  had 
been  appointed  Administrator  de  Rentas,  or  principal 
custom-house  officer  at  Santa  Fe,  in  the  year  1837.  It 
is  proper  to  mention  that,  during  this  hiatus,  somewhere 
between  the  years  1825  and  1830,  he  had  been,  by  a 
federal  appointment  under  the  old  territorial  laws,  cloth- 
ed with  the  executive  authority  in  New  Mexico,  and 
that  his  short  administration  was  signalized  by  acts  of 
cruelty  and  reckless  injustice.  In  consequence  of  some 
misdemeanor,  he  was  soon  deposed  from  his  place  at 
the  head  of  the  customs  by  the  then  governor,  Don  Al- 
bino Perez,  and  another  person  was  appointed  in  his 
stead. 

The  effects  of  the  central  form  of  government  were 
now  just  beginning  to  be  felt  in  this  isolated  department 
of  Mexico,  and  the  people  were  beginning  to  manifest 
no  inconsiderable  discontent  at  the  new  order  of  things, 
Armijo,  perceiving  that  there  was  now  a  chance,  not 
only  to  signalize  himself,  but  to  reap  a  rich  harvest  of 
revenge  against  his  enemies  then  in  power,  took  advan- 
tage of  this  feeling  by  secretly  fomenting  a  conspiracy. 
An  insurrection  was  soon  in  agitation,  and  early  in  Au- 
gust, 1837,  a  heterogeneous  force,  numbering  more  than 
one  thousand  men,  among  whom  were  a  large  number 
of  pueblos,  or  town  Indians,  assembled  at  La  Canada,  a 
village  about  twenty-five  miles  north  of  the  capital. 
Governor  Perez  conducted  a  small  force  against  the  in- 


A    DISAPPOINTMENT.  349 

surgents ;  but  a  majority  of  his  men  went  over  at  the 
outset,  leaving  him  with  only  twenty-five  personal 
friends  to  contend  with  odds  the  most  fearful.  A  slight 
skirmish  told  the  story :  one  of  his  men  was  killed,  two 
were  wounded,  while  the  rest  fled  precipitately  towards 
Santa  Fe.  The  insurgents  pursued  them  to  the  city, 
from  which  they  were  obliged  to  flee ;  but  they  were 
captured  the  next  day,  and  fourteen  of  them,  including 
all  the  officers  of  state,  were  most  inhumanly  put  to 
death.  Among  the  slain  were  three  brothers  named 
Abreu :  Governor  Perez  was  also  butchered  in  the  sub- 
urbs of  Santa  Fe,  his  head  cut  off,  and  kicked  about  the 
streets  by  the  populace.  His  body  remained  where  it 
had  fallen,  a  prey  to  the  vultures  and  wolves,  no  friend 
daring  to  offer  it  sepulture  ! 

Shrewdly  conjecturing,  now  that  he  had  raised  a 
whirlwind,  that  he  might  easily  direct  the  storm  to  his 
own  personal  advancement,  Armijo,  after  the  manner 
of  his  great  prototype,  Santa  Anna,  suddenly  left  his 
hacienda  and  made  his  appearance  at  Santa  Fe.  There 
he  found  everything  in  a  state  of  frightful  anarchy — the 
place  in  the  hands  of  an  ignorant  mob,  and  the  Ameri- 
can and  other  foreign  merchants  in  hourly  expectation 
that  their  houses  and  stores  would  be  sacked,  and  even 
their  lives  taken.  The  rabble  dispersed,  however,  com- 
mitting no  other  outrage  than  electing  one  of  their  own 
leaders,  an  ignorant  and  unlettered  fellow  named  Jose 
Gonzalez,  governor  of  New  Mexico.  They  paid  no  at- 
tention to  the  claim  set  up  by  Armijo,  the  fomenter,  as 
he  had  exposed  himself  in  no  way  to  the  anticipated 
hard  blows  and  knocks  which  had  given  them  the  as- 
cendancy. 

Foiled  in  his  ambition,  Armijo  once  more  retired  to 
his  hacienda,  a  fine  estate  he  had  purchased  at  Albu- 

VOL.  I.— G  G 


850  ANOTHER  REVOLUTION. 

querque  with  the  proceeds  of  his  cheating,  stealing,  and 
gambling  transactions.  But  an  active  and  ambitious 
mind  like  his  could  not  long  remain  inert.  Through 
secret  intrigues,  he  managed,  after  the  lapse  of  three  or 
four  months,  to  organize  a  counter-revolution,  and  col- 
lecting a  numerous  force,  he  declared  in  favour  of  Fed- 
eralism, and  marched  towards  Santa  Fe.  He  took 
quiet  possession  of  this  place,  as  Governor  Gonzalez, 
finding  himself  without  an  army,  had  fled  to  the  north. 
The  latter  was  soon  enabled,  however,  to  rally  around 
him  no  inconsiderable  mob  ;  but  Armijo,  in  the  mean 
time,  had  received  heavy  re-enforcements  from  the 
south,  and  succeeded  in  routing  Gonzalez  without  loss, 
taking  him  and  many  of  his  principal  men  prisoners. 
The  unfortunate  governor  was  immediately  shot,  and 
four  of  his  chief  officers  met  with  the  same  fate  by  order 
of  Armijo.  The  latter  were  put  out  of  the  way  more, 
it  is  said,  to  prevent  disclosures  than  for  any  crime  they 
had  committed  ;  for  they  had  been  Armijo's  confidential 
emissaries  in  the  formation  of  his  original  plot. 

The  ambitious  tyrant,  now  that  his  enemies  were  ei- 
ther murdered  or  dispersed,  reigned  supreme  in  New 
Mexico.  One  of  his  first  steps  was  to  bribe  the  army 
to  proclaim  him  governor  and  commander-in-chief ;  his 
next,  to  send  off"  a  highly-coloured  account  of  his  own 
exploits  in  favour  of  Federalism  to  the  city  of  Mexico, 
and  no  officer  can  more  adroitly  adopt  the  high-sound- 
ing fanfaronade  style  in  wording  a  despatch  or  an  ad- 
dress than  Manuel  Armijo.  Such  disinterested  patriot- 
ism, such  love  of  the  confederacy,  and  such  daring 
bravery  as  he  had  manifested  could  not  go  unreward- 
ed, and  a  return  of  post  from  Mexico  brought  docu- 
ments confirming  him  in  his  station  of  governor,  with 


ARMIJO    AS   GOVERNOR.  351 

the  additional  title  of  colonel  of  cavalry.  The  sheep- 
thief  is  now  rising  in  the  world  ! 

The  year  1838  passed  off  without  any  event  of  great 
importance — Armijo  still  governor,  and  ruling  his  vas- 
sals with  a  rod  of  iron.  In  the  early  part  of  1839, 
without  a  shadow  of  law  or  authority,  he  deposed  all 
the  custom-house  officers  and  appointed  his  own  brother 
and  his  other  creatures  in  their  stead,  in  order  that  he 
might  have  the  exclusive  control  and  management  of 
the  customs  in  his  own  hands.  He  next,  without  re- 
gard to  the  federal  tariff,  established  an  arbitrary  duty 
upon  all  merchandise  entering  from  the  United  States 
— $500  upon  each  wagon-load,  without  reference  to 
the  quality  of  the  goods  it  might  contain,  or  their  value. 
To  some  of  the  traders,  whose  wagons  happen  to  be 
heavily  laden  with  the  finer  kinds  of  merchandise,  this 
singular  imposition  is  exceedingly  favourable ;  while  to 
others,  with  light  or  not  valuable  loading,  it  is  equally 
oppressive. 

From  the  material  which  I  have  at  hand,  I  could 
give  a  connected  detail  of  weekly  acts  of  cruel  injustice 
and  most  glaring  partiality.  Fenelon's  graphic  picture 
of  a  bad  ruler  has  a  living  and  faithful  counterpart  in 
the  present  governor  of  New  Mexico.  Foreigners  are 
the  especial  objects  of  his  hatred ;  and  acts  and  decis- 
ions affecting  the  well-being  of  his  whole  province  are 
as  often  founded  upon  a  feeling  of  hatred  towards  a 
small  class,  or,  perhaps,  some  luckless  individual  who 
has  excited  his  jealousy  or  fallen  under  the  ban  of  his 
most  unaccountable  caprice,  as  upon  a  sentiment  of 
justice  and  necessity.  Still  oftener  do  his  acts  of  pub- 
lic administration  have  their  source  in  some  private  ad- 
vantage to  which  he  has  a  single  eye — it  may  be  in  the 
furthering  of  some  libertine  and  lustful  scheme  that 


352  IMPUNITY   FOR   MURDEK. 

would  disgrace  the  veriest  roue  in  Christendom.  Still, 
there  is  not  that  overt  demonstration  of  malice  towards 
foreigners  that  he  daily  makes  towards  his  own  crin- 
ging and  servile  countrymen.  He  is  afraid  of  Anglo- 
Saxon  blood,  and  he  seeks  to  spill  it  by  protecting  the 
knife  of  the  secret  assassin,  or  by  influencing,  to  most 
outrageous  decisions,  his  farcical  courts  of  law.  Not 
unfrequently  do  his  own  lusty  sinews  find  congenial 
employment,  in  the  open  streets  of  Santa  Fe,  in  wielding 
the  cane  and  cudgel  about  the  ears  of  his  native  sub- 
jects, and  never  yet  has  one  been  found  bold  enough  to 
strike  back.  He  raps  them  over  the  sconce  with  more 
impunity,  because  with  vastly  less  sentiment,  than  did 
Hamlet  the  grinning  scull  of  "  poor  Yorick." 

Out  of  a  multiplicity  I  will  record  two  anecdotes,  in 
order  to  illustrate  his  system  of  righting  wrongs.  The 
first  came  near  resulting  in  a  serious  quarrel  between 
the  American  residents  and  the  governor,  and  the  diffi- 
culty was  only  avoided  by  the  latter  abandoning  his 
objectionable  ground.  An  American  named  Daley  was 
wantonly  murdered  at  the  gold  mines  near  Santa  Fe, 
by  two  ruffians  engaged  in  robbing  a  store  which  he 
was  keeping  at  that  place.  The  murderers,  through 
the  energy  of  foreigners,  were  soon  apprehended,  and 
fully  convicted  of  the  crime  ;  but  as  they  were  Mexi- 
cans, and  had  only  shed  the  blood  of  a  heretic,  were 
permitted  to  go  un whipped  of  justice.  In  July,  1839, 
these  murderers  were  again  arrested  through  the  inter- 
position of  the  Americans,  and  a  second  time  brought 
to  Santa  Fe  for  trial.  The  friends  of  the  murdered 
man  now  drew  up  a  petition  to  the  governor,  in  the 
most  decorous  language,  praying  him  to  mete  out  full 
justice  to  the  assassins.  Armijo,  although  he  knew  full 
well  the  justice  of  their  prayer,  affected  to  believe  it  a 


ARMIJO    COWED.  353 

threat  against  his  authority  and  government — a  con- 
spiracy !  Upon  this  pretence  he  immediately  collected 
all  the  militia  he  could  raise,  and  made  preparations  for 
one  of  his  bravado  demonstrations.  The  Americans, 
convinced  that  no  justice  could  be  expected  from  a  ty- 
rant so  unprincipled,  and  fully  understanding  the  "  bluff- 
ing game"  he  had  resorted  to,  at  once,  with  character- 
istic spirit,  prepared  to  defend  themselves.  Their  firm- 
ness and  cool  determination  frightened  the  cowardly 
governor  and  induced  him  to  send  them  an  apologeti- 
cal  communication,  in  which  he  protested  that  he  had 
entirely  misconstrued  the  petition,  and  that  their  just 
request  should  have  due  attention. 

In  the  year  1840, 1  think  on  the  first  day  of  January, 
two  most  respectable  foreigners  had  the  misfortune  to 
kill  a  Mexican  lad  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  one 
of  their  guns.  They  were  returning  to  Santa  Fe  from 
the  gold  mines  when  the  unfortunate  accident  occurred, 
and  brought  the  body  of  the  boy  into  town  and  at  once 
reported  the  circumstance  to  the  authorities.  The 
principal  alcalde  consulted  with  Armijo  as  to  the  steps 
he  should  take,  and  the  decision  was,  without  form  of 
trial,  that  the  unfortunate  foreigners  should  be  put  in 
prison  and  held  responsible  for  murder,  unless  they 
could  prove  themselves  innocent !  This  is  a  very  com- 
mon instance  of  the  manner  in  which  the  potentate  ad- 
ministers justice.  But  there  was  something  in  this  case 
so  palpably  unjust,  in  the  eyes  of  those  who  knew  the 
men  and  the  facts,  as  once  more  to  call  out  such  mani- 
festations of  public  disapprobation  as  induced  him  to 
retract  so  outrageous  a  sentence. 

In  the  early  part  of  February,  1840,  a  concurrence 
of  two  or  three  acts  of  most  wanton  injustice,  conceived 
in  cupidity  and  lust,  came  near  resulting  in  revolution. 
Gc2 


854  HIS   GRASPING    AVARICE. 

Armijo  is  an  extensive  merchant,  and  it  becomes  a  part 
of  his  policy  to  pay  off  the  public  dues  in  his  own  mer- 
chandise at  most  enormous  profits.  When  it  is  remem- 
bered that  he  is  at  once  governor,  commander-in-chief, 
legislator,  custom-house  officer,  auditor,  treasurer,  and 
judge,  the  practicability  of  this  policy  becomes  apparent. 
Public  creditors  can  get  no  money  from  the  treasury 
because  it  is  always  bankrupt,  or  at  least  so  represent- 
ed, notwithstanding  the  custom-house  receipts  on  im- 
portations are  more  than  enough  to  pay  the  army,  to 
which  purpose  they  are  especially  set  apart  On  the 
occasion  alluded  to,  some  twenty  regular  soldiers,  sta- 
tioned at  Santa  Fe,  were  thrown  into  prison  and  loaded 
with  irons  as  malecontents  for  refusing  to  receive  their 
wages  in  corn  from  Armijo's  granary  at  four  dollars  a 
fanega — a  measure  containing  about  two  bushels — 
when  they  could  purchase  in  market  for  cash  at  one 
third  of  the  price.  This  outrageous  act  of  tyranny 
created  an  unwonted  excitement  against  its  author,  so 
much  so,  that  he  found  it  necessary  to  resort  to  a  spe- 
cious kind  of  trickery,  a  display  of  disinterestedness,  to 
allay  the  popular  clamour.  He  advertised  a  contract  to 
the  lowest  bidder,  to  furnish  the  soldiers  with  corn.  But 
this  Mexican  display  of  honesty  neither  deceived  nor 
satisfied  even  his  stupid  countrymen  ;  for  they  at  once 
declared  that  no  one  but  Armijo  could  take  the  contract 
at  any  price,  as  the  insolvent  government  never  paid 
any  creditor  but  him.  Thus  the  matter  remained  just 
as  it  had  begun,  and  just  as  this  most  patriotic  governor 
intended  it  should,  with  this  exception — the  manifesta- 
tions of  discontent  became  more  open  and  threatening. 
Two  young  officers  of  the  army,  in  particular,  had  fallen 
under  the  ban  of  the  governor's  displeasure  before,  and 
were  now  suspected  of  having  used  their  influence  in 


AEMIJO   A    LIBERTINE.  355 

fomenting  the  disaffection  that  seemed  universal  among 
the  soldiers.  His  hatred  of  these  young  and  meritori- 
ous officers  had  its  origin  in  an  affaire  cfamour,  which, 
as  it  exhibits  a  new  phase  in  the  multiplex  character  of 
Armijo — multiplex  in  all  that  is  corrupt  and  debasing — 
I  will  here  relate. 

Don  Santiago  Abreu,*  a  minister  in  the  administra- 
tion of  Governor  Perez,  and  massacred  Jn  the  former 
revolution,  left  a  handsome,  and,  in  such  advantages  as 
her  country  afforded,  an  accomplished  daughter,  Dona 
Soledad  Abreu  ;  a  maiden  whom  fifteen  summers  had 
ripened  into  early  womanhood.  After  Armijo's  eleva- 
tion, he  insidiously  beset  the  fair  doncella  with  libertine 
intentions ;  but  she  proudly  and  scornfully  resisted  all 
his  advances,  fortified  not  more,  perhaps,  by  a  sentiment 
of  intrinsic  virtue  than  by  the  inveterate  hatred  she  en- 
tertained for  the  governor.  She  knew  that  he  had  been 
the  mortal  enemy  of  her  father — the  undoubted  instiga- 
tor of  his  assassination — such  a  misci'eant  could  find 
little  favour  with  the  pretty  Soledad.  But  this  great  man 
was  not  to  be  so  easily  foiled,  and  attempted  by  intrigue 
what  he  had  failed  to  accomplish  in  a  direct  way.  He 
influenced  a  match  between  Dona  Soledad  and  Esqui- 
pulas  Caballero,  one  of  his  ensigns,  and  in  the  plenitude 
of  his  good-nature  honoured  their  nuptials  by  officiating 
as  sponsor  at  the  ceremony. 

He  now  renewed  his  vile  importunities,  and,  as  he  sup- 
posed, with  better  prospect  of  success.  He  held,  in  a 
manner,  the  destiny  of  the  young  officer  in  his  hands  ; 
but  in  every  attempt  to  accomplish  his  unholy  object  he 
was  most  signally  baffled.  The  maiden  and  the  wife 
proved  alike  invulnerable  to  his  solicitations  and  his 

*  1  believe  that  this  man  was  governor  of  New  Mexico  about  the  year 
1832. 


356  A   REVOLT   ATTEMPTED. 

threats.  At  last,  convinced  of  the  impregnable  virtue 
of  Soledad,  he  gave  up  the  pursuit,  and  began  making 
good  the  deep  oaths  of  vengeance  he  had  often  sworn. 
Her  he  could  not  reach  directly,  but  he  found  means  to 
degrade  her  unoffending  husband  and  her  favourite  un- 
cle, who  was  also  a  young  ensign  in  his  army,  named 
Ramon  Baca.  Ordering  a  grand  review  of  the  troops, 
with  no  other  intention  than  to  humble  these  young  ca- 
dets, he  publicly  promoted  to  a  rank  above  them  several 
officers  of  inferior  grade — a  most  galling  slight  in  the 
eyes  of  a  young  military  aspirant,  and  a  kind  of  ven- 
geance worthy  only  of  the  great  Armijo.  He  even 
promoted,  from  the  rank  of  common  soldier  to  a  grade 
above  them,  a  fellow  who  had  been  an  agent  and  pander 
in  many  of  his  licentious  transactions.  The  young  offi- 
cers, who  were  the  most  deserving  and  meritorious  in 
the  whole  corps,  now  finding  themselves  at  the  tail  of 
the  army,  presented  a  respectful  petition  to  his  excel- 
lency, praying  to  be  reinstated.  This  so  irritated  the 
tyrant,  that  he  threatened  them  with  instant  death  if  they 
ever  ventured  to  molest  him  again  with  similar  impor- 
tunities, and  Caballero,  the  husband  of  the  pretty  Sole- 
dad,  upon  affected  suspicion  of  favouring  the  disaffected 
soldiers,  was  cast  into  prison  with  them  and  heavily 
ironed  ! 

Baca,  upon  some  frivolous  charge,  was  ordered  out 
of  the  country.  The  9th  of  February  was  the  day 
fixed  by  the  governor  for  his  banishment ;  but  when 
the  time  came  the  young  man  declared  to  his  friends 
that  he  would  not  depart,  but  would  raise  an  insurrec- 
tion and  sacrifice  his  and  their  oppressor,  or  perish  in 
the  attempt.  With  a  sword  at  his  side  he  promenaded 
the  streets  of  Santa  Fe  during  the  forenoon,  with  great 
boldness  walked  directly  under  Armijo's  windows  and 


ITS   FAILURE.  357 

held  conferences  with  the  soldiers.  Without  a  friend  to 
inform  him  of  the  young  officer's  intention,  Armijo  re- 
mained in  utter  ignorance  of  the  plot ;  yet  the  inhab- 
itants were  all  aware  of  the  intended  revolution,  and 
anxiously  awaited  an  outbreak  they  deemed  inevitable. 
But  the  good  fortune  of  the  despot  did  not  desert  him  in 
this  extremity.  Had  a  single  blow  been  struck,  his 
power  and  his  oppressions  would  have  ended  ;  for, 
whenever  the  star  of  his  destiny  tends  downward,  it 
will  gravitate  with  a  velocity  vastly  accelerated  by  the 
universal  hatred  in  which  he  is  held  by  his  subjects  ; 
but  when  called  upon  by  the  heroic  Baca  the  soldiers  at 
first  hesitated,  and  then  declared  that  they  would  ren- 
der him  no  assistance.  They  had  promised  to  aid,  to  join 
him ;  but  either  from  lack  of  confidence  in  him  as  a 
leader,  or  from  craven  fear  of  Armijo,  they  were  de- 
terred from  an  open  demonstration.  Thus  was  this  em- 
bryo revolution,  which  gave  such  excellent  promise, 
crushed  through  the  timidity  of  a  handful  of  soldiers. 

In  the  afternoon,  young  Baca  mounted  his  horse,  and 
riding  to  the  barracks,  made  a  short  speech  to  his  breth- 
ren in  arms.  It  was  a  farewell  address,  couched  in 
decorous  terms,  and  at  its  conclusion  the  really  gallant 
officer  departed  on  his  exile.  But  by  this  time  Armijo 
had  obtained  information  of  the  contemplated  revolt, 
and  immediately  sent  off  a  detachment  of  dragoons 
with  orders  to  bring  back  the  young  officer,  dead  or 
alive.  He  was  overtaken,  and  thinking  himself  betray- 
ed by  the  soldiery,  quietly  gave  up  his  arms,  was 
guarded  back  to  Santa  Fe,  and  thrust  into  the  same 
dungeon  with  his  friend  Caballero.  At  first  it  was 
thought  that  Armijo  would  order  them  to  immediate  ex- 
ecution ;  but  fearing  the  populace,  among  whom  they 
had  so  many  friends,  he  finally  sent  them  off  to  the  city 


358  ARMIJO    AFFECTS   ROYAL   HONOURS. 

of  Mexico  to  be  tried  for  treason,  himself  to  furnish  all 
the  proof.  The  father  of  young  Caballero,  a  brave  and 
meritorious  officer,  but  broken  down  by  age  and  dissi- 
pation, was  carried  to  the  door  of  Armijo  to  intercede 
for  his  son;  but  the  tyrant  denied  him  an  audience. 
The  shock  was  too  much  for  the  old  man :  he  was 
borne  to  his  home  only  to  be  carried  thence  to  his 
grave,  and  his  loss  was  much  lamented  by  both  foreign- 
ers and  natives. 

The  young  officers  were  released  on  reaching  Chi- 
huahua, and  afterward  visited  the  city  of  Mexico  with 
the  hope  of  obtaining  redress.  They  were  unable  to 
effect  anything,  however,  for  by  the  time  they  were  al- 
lowed a  hearing  the  Texan  expedition  to  New  Mexico 
began  to  be  agitated,  and  the  aspect  of  affairs  at  Santa 
Fe  was  now  too  critical  for  the  General  Government  to 
think  of  tampering  with  her  tyrannical  governor. 

In  his  rude  palacio  at  Santa  Fe  he  is  more  the  des- 
pot than  anywhere  else,  maintaining  himself  proudly, 
and  enforcing  all  the  regal  homage  and  courtly  cere- 
monial exacted  by  the  veriest  tyrant.  A  guard,  mus- 
ket on  shoulder,  marches  before  the  entrance  to  his 
door,  denying  entrance  to  all  unless  they  have  first  ob- 
tained the  royal  permission.  Should  his  excellency 
feel  in  the  humour  of  walking  out,  the  cry  from  the  cen- 
tinela  is,  "  The  governor  and  commander-in-chief  ap- 
pears !"  and  this  is  echoed  and  re-echoed  from  every 
guard  in  and  about  the  barracks.  When  his  majesty  is 
in  the  street,  each  dutiful  subject  takes  off  whatever 
apology  for  a  hat  he  may  have  on  his  head.  Should 
the  governor's  wife,  a  gross,  brazen-faced  woman,  issue 
from  the  building,  the  form  is  even  more  ridiculous,  for 
then  the  cry  of  "  La  gobernadora  /"  or  "  La  comman- 
dante  generala  /"  resounds  on  every  side.  This  woman 


HIS   DEPRAVITY.  359 

is  contaminated  with  every  depraved  habit  known  to 
human  nature ;  and  as  her  husband  is  a  debauchee  by 
"  special  prerogative,"  she  does  not  scruple  to  act  as  his 
alcahueta  in  all  his  amours.  In  the  mean  time  she  is  not 
without  her  own  lovers — a  worthy  couple,  truly  ! 

It  is  strange  how  this  man  has  been  able  to  maintain 
his  despotic  and  arbitrary  sway  among  a  people  ac- 
knowledging no  law  but  that  of  force.  The  inhabitants 
are  far  more  dissatisfied  with  his  administration  than 
they  were  with  that  of  Perez  and  his  cabinet  of  Abreus  ; 
yet  so  far  they  have  dared  to  do  no  more  than  plot  rev- 
olutions against  their  oppressor.  He  continues  to  hold 
sway  in  a  country  where  he  has  not  a  real  friend  upon 
whom  he  can  depend  ;  even  his  sycophantic  favourites 
would  prove  his  bitterest  enemies  were  he  once  in  ad- 
versity. Could  the  Texans  have  entered  New  Mexicd 
in  a  body,  with  plenty  of  provisions,  Armijo  would  have 
fled  with  his  ill-gotten  wealth,  and  the  new-comers 
would  have  been  hailed  by  all  parties  as  deliverers. 

I  might  diversify  this  hasty  biography  of  Don  Manuel 
Armijo,  from  the  abundant  material  which  I  have  yet  by 
me  unused,  with  stories  of  his  atrocious  acts  that  would 
bring  a  blush  upon  the  brow  of  tyranny.  I  might  de- 
tail many  horrible  murders  which  he  has  committed. 
I  could  relate  many  a  thrilling  story  of  his  abuse  of  the 
rights  of  women,  that  would  make  Saxon  hearts  burn 
with  indignant  fire ;  for  Saxon  hearts  enshrine  the 
mothers  of  men  as  objects  sacred  and  apart.  I  might 
speak  of  his  conniving  with  the  Apache  Indians,  in 
their  robberies  of  his  neighbours  of  the  State  of  Chihua- 
hua, by  furnishing  this  hardy  mountain  tribe  with  pow- 
der and  balls  and  guns,  knowing  that  with  them  they 
would  fall,  like  the  eagle,  from  their  fastnesses,  upon  his 
own  countrymen,  I  could  give  a  catalogue  of  men's 


360  HIS   COWARDICE. 

names  whom  he  has  banished-  from  their  own  families 
and  homes,  for  no  reason  but  because  they  were  in  his 
way.  Assassinations,  robberies,  violent  debauchery, 
extortions,  and  innumerable  acts  of  broken  faith  are 
themes  upon  which  I  am  armed  with  abundant  and 
most  veritable  detail ;  but  my  readers  would  sicken, 
and  my  narrative  leads  me  another  way.  A  few  re- 
marks and  I  have  done  with  him. 

The  mien  and  deportment  of  Armijo  are  not  ill  cal- 
culated to  strike  a  timorous  people  with  awe ;  for,  as  I 
have  before  remarked,  he  is  a  large,  portly  man,  of 
stern  countenance  and  blustering  manner.  Not  one 
jot  or  tittle  of  personal  bravery  does  he  possess,  but  is 
known  to  be  a  most  arrant  coward.  In  all  the  revolu- 
tions that  have  taken  place  since  he  first  courted  power, 
Tiis  own  person  has  never  been  exposed,  if  we  except 
one  instance.  In  a  skirmish  with  some  Indians  he  re- 
ceived a  wound  in  the  leg,  from  which  he  still  limps ; 
but  the  action  was  not  of  his  own  seeking,  and  his  con- 
duct on  this  occasion  was  that  of  a  man  engaged  in  a 
business  anything  but  to  his  liking.  He  has  made  great 
capital,  however,  of  his  crippled  leg,  and,  like  his  great 
exemplar,  Santa  Anna,  is  determined  that  his  subjects 
shall  never  forget  that  he  received  it  while  encounter- 
ing their  enemy.  But  the  master-stroke  of  this  great 
man  was  the  capturing  the  Texan  Santa  Fe  Expedition. 
These  small  squads  of  tattered  soldiers,  taken  piece- 
meal, in  his  grandiloquent  bulletin  he  multiplied  into  a 
legion  of  Buckramites — for  which  act  of  most  heroic 
daring  he  was,  all  in  good  time,  knighted  by  Santa  An- 
na. He  knows  his  people  thoroughly,  having  studied 
their  character  with  a  most  acute  discernment.  A 
common  remark  of  his  is,  "  Vale  mas  estar  tornado  por 
valiente  que  serlo"  —  it  is  better  to  be  thought  brave 


UNREALIZED    HOPES.  361 

than  really  to  be  so — and  thus,  by  blustering  and  swag- 
gering, he  keeps  the  timid  natives  in  subjection. 

It  may  be  thought  singular  that  no  attention  is  paid 
to  Armijo's  tyranny  by  the  general  government ;  but 
his  policy  is  only  part  of  that  which  has  obtained  in 
many  of  the  departments.  In  our  own  confederacy, 
we  regard  intelligence  as  the  great  bond  of  union ;  the 
reverse  is  the  case  in  Mexico — a  sufficient  test  to 
prove  that  the  so-called  Republic  is  no  Republic  at 
all.  To  General  Manuel  Armijo  I  will  now  bid  adieu; 
but  I  cannot  do  it  without  again  saying,  that,  how- 
ever much  he  may  be  astonished  at  seeing  his  portrait 
thus  taken,  he  cannot  urge  a  single  syllable  against  its 
fidelity. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Unrealized  Hopes. — A  Brood  of  unhatched  Chickens. — We  are  quartered 
with  our  Companions. — Arrival  of  "  Old  Paint." — Joy  at  seeing  the  Vet- 
eran.— Another  Meeting  with  Friends. — Stories  of  Suffering. — Liberated 
Prisoners  again  confined. — Armijo  and  Lewis. — Departure  for  the  City  of 
Mexico. — A  long  and  gloomy  March  before  us.  —  The  Brute  Salezar  in 
Command. — Bustamente  and  the  Women  of  San  Miguel. — Causes  of  the 
Failure  of  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition.  —  Arrival  at  a  deserted  Mission. — 
Sufferings  of  the  Prisoners  from  Cold. — More  of  Salezar's  Brutalities. — 
The  dreary  March  continued. — Arrival  at  Pino's  Rancho. —  Farther  Suf- 
ferings.— A  cold  Camping-ground. — Hard  Fare. — Frostbitten  Feet. — Hor- 
rible Threat  of  Salezar. — San  Domingo. — Kindness  of  the  Women. — San 
Felipe. — First  Sight  of  the  Rio  Grande. — Algodones. — A  Second  "Black 
Hole  of  Calcutta." — Arrival  at.  the  Indian  Village  of  Sandia.  — A  singu- 
lar Rite. — Description  of  the  Inhabitants. — Alameda. — Scene  in  an  Oven. 
— Misery  makes  us  acquainted  with  strange  Bedfellows. — Sufferings  on 
the  Increase. — Bottoms  of  the  Rio  Grande;  their  Fertility. — Albuquerque 
in  Sight. — Herons  and  Wild  Geese. — A  dashing  Mexican  Horseman. — 
Lieutenant  Hornsby  abducted. — Arrival  at  Albuquerque. — The  Family  of 
Armijo. — Farther  Kindness  of  the  Women. — General  Pike's  Journal. — The 
Pretty  Girl  of  Albuquerque. 

I  AWOKE  on  the  morning  of  the  17th  of  October  with 
full  confidence  that  I  had  passed  my  last  night  in  prison. 
VOL.  I— H  H 


362  UNMATCHED   CHICKENS. 

Neither  myself  nor  my  companions  thought  it  could  be 
otherwise.  I  had  received  assurance  after  assurance, 
from  every  quarter,  that  as  soon  as  the  Texans  were  on 
the  march  an  order  for  my  release  would  be  made  out 
and  issued  by  Armijo ;  and  so  sanguine  were  my  illu- 
sory hopes  that  such  would  be  the  case,  that  the  even- 
ing previous  I  had  spent  in  speculations  as  to  my  future 
movements.  On  leaving  New-Orleans,  in  the  prece- 
ding May,  I  had  fondly  anticipated  reaching  Santa  Fe 
by  the  1  st  of  August,  at  farthest,  and  the  city  of  Mex- 
ico by  the  1st  of  October,  after  having  seen  all  the 
"  sights"  between  the  two  points.  It  was  now  the  mid- 
dle of  the  latter  month,  a  period  so  late  in  the  season 
as  to  render  my  returning  to  the  United  States,  by 
way  of  Bent's  Fort  and  Independence,  impracticable, 
so  that  I  should  be  forced,  as  I  then  thought,  to  go  as 
far  as  Chihuahua,  at  least,  into  the  interior  of  Mexico. 
From  that  point  I  determined,  if  it  would  facilitate  my 
journey  home,  to  leave  the  main  route  to  Mexico  and 
travel  directly  to  Matamoros.  I  even  made  my  calcu- 
lations, in  case  Armijo  would  not  give  up  my  horse,  to 
purchase  him  of  his  present  owner  if  possible ;  or  if  I 
was  disappointed  in  once  more  obtaining  possession  of 
this  tried  and  faithful  steed,  I  at  least  determined  upon 
purchasing  a  large  and  untiring  mule  which  had  belong- 
ed to  Van  Ness. 

A  larger  brood  of  unhatched  chickens  has  probably 
never  been  counted.  When  the  sun  had  appeared 
above  the  eastern  summits  of  the  mountains  which  en- 
viron San  Miguel,  I  was  ordered  to  march,  with  my 
three  companions,  to  the  quarters  occupied  by  the  main 
body  of  Texan  prisoners.  Our  meeting  was  an  occa- 
sion of  strong  and  diverse  emotions — joy  once  more  to 
shake  the  hands  of  those  with  whom  we  had  shared  the 


ARRIVAL   OF   "  OLD    PAINT."  363 

perils  and  hardships  of  the  prairies,  gloom  to  see  those 
friends  in  plight  so  miserable. 

But  a  few  minutes  elapsed  ere  "  Old  Paint"  Caldwell, 
with  his  nine  comrades,  was  escorted  from  the  house 
of  our  friend  Vigil  and  placed  in  line  with  the  other 
prisoners.  A  low  but  cordial  shout  of  welcome  arose 
on  the  still  morning  air  as  the  men  saw  the  veteran  ap- 
proach, and  warm  were  the  greetings  as  he  shook 
hands  with  the  eager  crowd  that  pressed  around  him. 
Question  followed  question  in  such  quick  succession 
that  no  time  was  given  to  answer ;  stories  of  suffering 
and  of  wrong  were  broken  off  half  finished,  in  such 
haste  was  each  man  to  unbosom  his  rapid-crowding 
thoughts.  The  burden  of  the  stories  on  every  side  was 
of  starvation,  murdered  friends  and  broken  Mexican 
faith,  mixed  with  deep  curses  upon  the  head  of  Lewis, 
whose  perfidy  was  by  this  time  generally  known. 

Before  these  first  greetings  were  over,  Lieutenants 
Scott  and  Burgess,  with  young  Howard,  were  escorted 
in  from  the  rancho  of  old  Antonio  Baca.  Here  was 
another  meeting  of  deep  joy  alloyed  with  melancholy ; 
the  latter  had  a  brother  among  us,  and  all  had  warm 
friends.  My  friend  Falconer,  too,  reduced  in  flesh,  but 
still  preserving  the  full  measure  of  his  buoyant  spirits, 
we  found  in  the  crowd. 

Even  up  to  this  period  I  had  not  lost  all  hope  of  being 
liberated :  Armijo  had  released  four  of  the  Texans,  then 
why  not  me  ?  He  had  all  my  papers  in  his  possession 
— documents  proving  incontestably  that  I  had  no  part 
or  lot  with  the  expedition  he  had  been  fortunate  enough 
to  capture — and  with  such  proofs  in  his  hands,  upon 
what  grounds  could  he  detain  me  longer  ?  He  had  none 
other  than  his  arbitrary  will — the  supreme  law  of  New 
Mexico.  But  whatever  hopes  I  might  have  entertain- 


364  SALEZAR   AGAIN. 

ed,  up  to  this  time,  of  being  released,  they  were  now 
banished  on  seeing  the  four  Texans,  who  had  for  sev- 
eral days  enjoyed  unconditional  liberty,  marched  in 
among  us.  They  knew  not  the  cause,  could  divine  no 
motive  which  might  have  induced  Armijo  to  this  singu- 
lar step,  unless  Lewis  was  at  the  bottom  of  it.  At  one 
moment  the  governor  had  liberated  these  men,  and  as- 
signed them  all  lucrative  situations  :  they  had  scarcely 
tasted  the  sweets  of  freedom  before  they  were  again 
arrested,  brought  in,  and  penned  with  their  imprisoned 
comrades.  Not  a  doubt  exists  that  to  Lewis  these  four 
men,  as  well  as  myself,  were  indebted  for  months  of 
suffering,  peril,  and  imprisonment :  the  traitor  probably 
thought  that  we  had  found  out  and  would  make  his 
treachery  known  to  the  Americans  at  Santa  Fe,  and 
thus  render  the  place  too  hot  for  his  comfort  or  safety. 
He  had  a  certain  influence  with  Armijo,  which  he  might 
have  used  for  the  melioration  of  our  lot ;  but  the  same 
cowardly  impulse  -which  urged  him,  by  base  means,  to 
save  himself  from  the  Mexicans,  now  caused  him,  in  a 
more  traitorous  way,  to  save  himself  from  his  own  coun- 
trymen. 

After  we  had  been  paraded  in  the  plaza  of  San  Mi- 
guel, and  the  ceremony  of  counting  us  had  been  gone 
through,  it  was  ascertained  that  the  notorious  Salezar — 
the  greatest  brute  among  Armijo's  officers — was  to  have 
charge  of  us.  This  was  considered  unfortunate  by  all, 
and  even  our  old  and  tricky  friend  Bustamente,  who 
came  up  to  bid  us  farewell,  privately  took  occasion  to 
manifest  his  regret  that  such  a  cold-blooded  wretch 
was  to  have  charge  of  us.  The  \vomen,  too,  who  had 
been  so  kind  to  myself  and  companions  while  in  San 
Miguel,  now  came  up  and  shook  our  hands  for  the  last 
time,  many  of  the  girls  affected  even  to  tears  at  the 


WHY   THE    EXPEDITION    FAILED.  365 

gloomy  prospect  before  us,  and  openly  warning  us  to 
beware  crossing  Salezar  in  any  of  his  demands  or  wish- 
es. The  beginning  of  a  cold  and  disagreeable  winter 
was  at  hand,  as  we  set  off  on  foot  upon  a  journey  of 
over  two  thousand  miles — we  were  in  the  hands  of  a 
brute  whose  only  delight  was  in  cruelty  and  blood — 
should  we  be  fortunate  enough  to  withstand  the  fa- 
tigues attendant  upon  the  journey,  an  uncertain  fate 
awaited  us  at  its  termination ;  thus,  with  hope  lending 
hardly  a  gleam  of  sunshine  to  the  dark  clouds  before 
us,  the  reader  can  easily  imagine  that  our  condition  was 
gloomy  in  the  extreme. 

And  what  mistake  had  brought  this  sorrowful  issue 
to  our  enterprise  ?  In  as  few  words  as  possible  I  will 
answer  the  question.  In  the  first  place,  the  expedition 
began  its  march  too  late  in  the  season  by  at  least  six 
weeks.  Had  it  left  Austin  on  the  1st  of  May,  the  grass 
would  have  been  much  better,  and  we  should  have  had 
little  difficulty  in  finding  good  water  both  for  ourselves 
and  cattle.  In  the  second  place,  we  were  disappointed 
in  obtaining  a  party  of  the  Lipan  Indians  as  guides,  and 
were  consequently  obliged  to  take  a  route  some  three 
hundred  miles  out  of  the  way,  and  in  many  places  ex- 
tremely difficult  of  travel.  Thirdly,  the  government  of 
Texas  did  not  furnish  wagons  and  oxen  enough  to  trans- 
port the  goods  of  the  merchants,  and  this,  as  a  matter  of 
course,  caused  tedious  delays.  Fourthly,  cattle  enough 
on  the  hoof  were  not  provided,  even  with  the  second 
supply  sent  for  by  the  commissioners  from  Little  River. 
Again,  the  distance  was  vastly  greater  than  we  had  an- 
ticipated in  our  widest  and  wildest  calculations,  owing 
to  which  circumstance,  and  an  improvident  waste  of 
provisions  while  in  the  buffalo  range,  we  found  ourselves 
upon  half  allowance  in  the  very  middle  of  our  long  jour- 


366  WHAT   MIGHT   HAVE    BEEN. 

ney — a  privation  which  weakened,  dispirited,  and  ren- 
dered the  men  unfit  for  duty.  The  Indians  also  annoy- 
ed us  much,  by  their  harassing  and  continual  attempts 
to  cut  off  our  small  parties  and  steal  our  horses.  Fi- 
nally, the  character  of  the  governor  of  New  Mexico 
was  far  from  being  understood,  and  his  power  was  un- 
derrated by  all.  General  Lamar's  estimate  of  the  views 
and  feelings  of  the  people  of  Santa  Fe  and  the  vicinity 
was  perfectly  correct ;  not  a  doubt  can  exist  that  they 
all  were  and  are  anxious  to  throw  off  the  oppressive 
yoke  of  Armijo,  and  come  under  the  liberal  institutions 
of  Texas  ;  but  the  governor  found  us  divided  into  small 
parties,  broken  down  by  long  marches  and  want  of  food, 
discovered  a  traitor  among  us,  too,  and  taking  advan- 
tage of  these  circumstances,  his  course  was  plain  and 
his  conquest  easy. 

Far  different  would  have  been  the  result  had  the  ex- 
pedition reached  the  confines  of  New  Mexico  a  month 
earlier,  and  in  a  body.  Then,  with  fresh  horses,  and  a 
sufficiency  of  provisions  for  the  men,  the  feelings  of  the 
inhabitants  could  have  been  ascertained  ;  the  proclama- 
tions of  General  Lamar  would  have  been  distributed 
among  them ;  the  people  would  have  had  an  opportu- 
nity to  come  over  to  Texas  without  fear,  and  the  feeble 
opposition  Armijo  could  have  made,  and  I  doubt  wheth- 
er he  would  have  made  any  against  the  Texans  in  a 
body,  could  have  been  put  down  with  ease.  Had  it 
been  evident  that  a  majority  of  the  inhabitants  were  sat- 
isfied under  their  present  government,  and  unfriendly  to 
a  union  with  Texas,  then  the  goods  would  have  been 
sold,  and  the  force  withdrawn — at  least,  such  was  the 
tenour  of  the  proclamations.  No  attack  would  have 
been  made  upon  the  inhabitants — that  was  expressly 
understood ;  but  had  Armijo  seen  fit  to  commence  hos- 


GENERAL    MCLEOD  S    PARTY.  367 

tilities,  his  power  in  New  Mexico  would  have  been  at 
an  end.  Fate  decreed  otherwise,  and  by  a  series  of  un- 
foreseen and  unfortunate  circumstances  the  expedition 
was  thrown  into  his  hands. 

To  return  to  our  present  gloomy  situation.  A  guard 
numbering  nearly  two  hundred  men,  mounted  upon 
horses,  mules,  and  asses,  and  miserably  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows,  lances,  or  worthless  muskets,  rode 
upon  either  side  of  us,  single  file,  as  we  trudged  along 
on  foot  We  had  questions  innumerable  to  ask  each 
other,  and  during  the  day  I  learned  from  Mr.  Falconer 
and  others  the  particulars  of  their  journey  across  the 
Grand  Prairie,*  and  of  their  capture.  The  story  was 
one  of  great  hardship  and  suffering.  The  implacable 
Caygiias  had  harassed  them  continually,  killed  several 
of  their  men,  and  at  one  time  rode  directly  through  the 
camp,  and  succeeded  in  stampeding  no  less  than  eighty- 
seven  horses,  which  were  never  recovered.  When  we 
left  them,  on  the  31st  of  August,  it  was  thought  that  they 
would  hear  from  us  at  farthest  by  the  10th  of  Septem- 
ber, but  the  15th  of  that  month  came,  and  still  no  tidings. 
On  that  day  a  council  of  officers  was  held,  at  which  it 
was  determined  to  wait  five  days  longer,  and  then,  if 
no  news  should  be  received  of  Colonel  Cooke's  party, 
it  was  resolved  to  burn  the  wagons  and  goods,  and  make 
the  best  of  their  way  back  to  Texas  by  forced  marches, 
living  upon  their  horses  and  mules,  after  the  beef  should 
have  been  exhausted,  until  they  could  reach  the  buffalo 
and  hunting  range.  Unfortunately  the  guides  sent  back 
by  us,  after  we  had  passed  the  Angosturas,  reached 
General  McLeod's  encampment  on  the  17th  of  Septem- 

*  By  this  name  I  designate  the  immense  prairie  we  crossed  after  ascend- 
ing the  steppe,  or  chain  of  high  hills,  west  of  the  Palo  Dura  It  is  the  Llano 
Estacado  of  the  New  Mexicans. 


368  EXTREMITY    OF    HUNGER. 

her,  when  immediate  orders  were  given  to  resume  the 
march  towards  Santa  Fe. 

To  show  how  unfortunate  had  been  our  choice  of 
route,  after  leaving  the  main  party  on  the  Palo  Duro,  it 
is  sufficient  to  say  that  the  guides  we  sent  back  trav- 
ersed the  distance  in  three  days  and  a  half — whereas  it 
had  taken  us  fourteen.  The  distance  must  have  been, 
by  their  route,  nearly  two  hundred  miles ;  yet  by  trav- 
elling night  and  day  they  were  enabled  to  make  their 
journey  in  the  short  time  mentioned.  The  guides,  too, 
were  enabled  to  find,  what  we  had  supposed  impracti- 
cable, a  road  for  the  wagons  up  the  high  and  precipitous 
steppe,  and  when  once  on  the  summit,  instead  of  taking 
the  northwest  course  which  had  brought  us  directly 
upon  the  deep  chasms  and  other  obstructions,  they  gui- 
ded the  command  in  a  due  west  direction,  finding  a 
smooth  road,  and  heading  the  chasms  entirely.  Had 
Colonel  Cooke  known  this  route  on  leaving  the  main 
body,  the  fate  of  the  expedition  might  have  been  different. 

But  even  on  gaining  the  Grand  Prairie,  and  with  the 
bright  hopes  of  soon  reaching  the  settlements,  and  a 
sufficiency  of  food  before  them,  the  sufferings  of  the 
men  composing  the  main  party  were  still  intolerable. 
The  Caygiias  pursued  them  some  distance,  hovering 
upon  their  flanks  and  rear,  and  cutting  off  several  small 
parties  who  had  been  driven  by  hunger  to  seek  for 
grapes,  plums,  or  game.  The  men  were  out  of  salt, 
their  daily  allowance  was  only  one  pound  and  a  half 
of  starved  and  sickly  beef,  which  was  probably  two 
thirds  bone,  and  their  wants  had  caused  great  debility 
and  disease  among  them.  It  is  only  necessary  to  meti- 
tion,  in  order  to  show  the  great  sufferings  they  endured, 
that  every  dog  in  camp — and  several  of  the  Indian  curs 
had  followed  us — was  killed  and  greedily  devoured. 


SURRENDER    OP    GENERAL    MCLEOD.  369 

Snakes,  lizards,  tortoises,  polecats — in  short,  almost 
every  living  and  creeping  thing  upon  the  face  of  the 
prairie,  were  eaten  with  avidity,  so  ravenous  was  their 
hunger.  Not  a  vestige,  save  the  horns,  hoofs,  and  lar- 
ger bones  of  the  beeves,  was  left — the  wolves  and  buz- 
zards were  even  cheated  of  their  just  allowance,  the 
hide  and  entrails,  for  all  was  devoured. 

On  arriving  at  the  Laguna  Colorada,  a  small  sheet 
of  reddish  water  south  of  the  Angosturas,  the  advance 
of  General  McLeod  was  opposed  by  the  Mexicans  un- 
der Colonel  Archulete.  Out  of  more  than  two  hun- 
dred men,  it  was  now  found  that  the  Texans  could 
muster  but  about  ninety  who  were  really  fit  for  active 
service,  and  these  would  have  been  obliged  to  act  on 
foot  entirely,  as  their  horses  had  been  either  run  off  in 
the  stampede  on  the  Palo  Duro,  or  kept  so  closely  within 
the  lines  that  they  could  not  obtain  grass  enough  to 
sustain  their  strength.  Many  of  the  men  who  had  lost 
their  horses,  weak  and  dispirited  from  long  marches 
and  want  of  food,  had  secretly  thrown  away  their  arms 
to  lighten  themselves  upon  the  road,  and,  in  the  mean 
time,  that  subordination,  without  which  all  efforts  are 
useless,  was  in  a  measure  lost.  In  this  desperate  con- 
dition, unable  to  hear  a  word  concerning  the  fate  of 
either  Colonel  Cooke  or  of  two  small  parties  they  had 
sent  out,  and  with  the  promise  of  good  treatment  and 
that  their  personal  effects  would  be  returned  to  them,  a 
surrender  was  made.  Many  of  the  men,  as  well  as  of- 
ficers, were  ready  and  willing  to  bide  the  issue  of  an 
action  in  case  their  advance  was  opposed  ;  but  they 
were  overruled  by  the  majority,  and  thus  was  the  fate 
of  the  expedition  sealed.  The  men  had  no  sooner  laid 
down  their  arms  than  they  were  searched,  robbed,  tied, 
and  most  grossly  insulted,  and  then,  with  hardly  pro- 


370  SANTA    FE. 

visions  enough  to  sustain  nature,  marched  hurriedly  to 
San  Miguel.  Of  their  arrival  in  that  place  I  have  al- 
ready made  mention.  I  will  now  continue  the  journey 
towards  the  city  of  Mexico. 

The  17th  of  October,  the  day  on  which  we  started 
from  San  Miguel,  was  warm  and  showery.  Our  route 
lay  towards  Santa  Fe,  and  over  the  same  ground  my- 
self and  companions  had  travelled  the  day  on  which 
we  first  met  Armijo.  About  sundown,  foot-sore  and 
completely  exhausted  after  a  hurried  march  of  thirty 
miles  over  a  rough  and  hilly  road,  we  reached  the  old 
ruin  of  Pecos — in  former  times  a  mission  and  a  fortress, 
but  now  uninhabitable,  and  fast  crumbling  to  decay. 
Salezar  drove  us  into  an  enclosure  amid  the  ruins,  and 
there  herded  us  for  the  night  in  quarters  not  fit  even 
for  brutes,  and  without  giving  us  a  morsel  of  food ! 

Immediately  to  the  north  of  Pecos,  and  within  a  few 
miles,  rose  a  lofty  mountain  whose  summit  was  now 
covered  with  snow.  On  the  other  side  of  this  mount- 
ain, and  immediately  at.  its  base,  lies  the  little  mud-built 
city  of  Santa  Fe,  a  place  towards  which  we  had  been 
journeying  for  months,  but  which  we  were  not  destined 
to  see.*  As  I  have  before  remarked,  the  day  had  been 
hot  and  sultry,  with  a  shower  in  the  afternoon  sufficient 
to  moisten  the  ground.  The  only  baggage  in  posses- 
sion of  the  prisoners,  besides  the  slight  and  ragged 
clothing  upon  their  backs,  was  a  single  blanket  for  each 
man.  In  this  each  immediately  rolled  himself,  and  then 

*  General  Zebulon  M.  Pike,  in  the  narrative  of  his  imprisonment  in  New 
Mexico,  says  that  Santa  Fe,  from  the  mountain's  sides,  has  the  appearance 
of  an  immense  fleet  of  flat-boats  on  the  Mississippi,  while  Albert  Pike,  in  his 
interesting  sketches,  likens  its  general  features  to  those  of  an  extensive  brick- 
kiln, or  rather  a  succession  of  brick-kilns.  Either  comparison  is  doubtless 
correct,  for  such  certainly  is  the  appearance  of  all  the  towns  in  Northern 
Mexico  through  which  I  travelled. 


COLD    AND    HTJNGER.  371 

stretched  his  weary  limbs  upon  the  cold,  damp  earth, 
vainly  hoping  that  he  might  obtain  rest  and  forgetful- 
ness  in  sleep — but  no  such  good  fortune  awaited  us. 

As  if  to  increase  our  sufferings,  a  chill,  biting  wind 
sprang  up,  at  dusk,  fresh  from  the  snow-clad  mountain 
north  of  us,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  it  was  so  bitterly 
cold  That  to  sleep  was  impossible.  In  vain  did  we 
crowd  close  to  each  other,  in  vain  did  we  nestle  in  the 
little  hollows  formed  in  the  uneven  ground ;  the  pier- 
cing wind  penetrated  our  scanty  covering  and  benumb- 
ed our  every  energy.  I  tried  to  rise,  as  did  many  of 
the  unfortunate  prisoners  ;  but  the  cold  wind  had  so 
stiffened  our  limbs,  rendered  in  the  first  place  heated 
and  sore  by  the  long  mountain  march,  that  we  could 
scarcely  move  or  turn  over  without  enduring  tortures 
the  most  excruciating.  In  this  way,  and  without  an 
hour's  sleep,  we  passed  our  first  night  on  the  long  road 
to  Mexico, 

Early  in  the  morning  we  were  ordered  to  continue 
the  march,  and  without  food.  Salezar  did,  previous  to 
starting,  distribute  some  fifty  small  cakes  among  one 
hundred  and  eighty-seven  half-starved  men  ;  and  the 
manner  of  this  distribution  showed  the  brutal  nature  of 
the  wretch.  Calling  the  prisoners  around  him,  each 
with  the  hope  that  he  was  to  receive  something  to  allay 
the  sharp  cravings  of  hunger,  he  would  toss  one  of  these 
cakes  high  in  the  air,  and  then,  with  a  glee  absolutely 
demoniacal,  watch  the  scramble  that  ensued  as  it  fell 
among  the  suffering  throng.  It  was  a  game  of  the 
strong  against  the  weak,  this  struggle  for  the  few  mouth- 
fuls  of  food  which  Salezar  threw  among  them.  The 
better  attributes  of  our  nature,  the  kind  sympathies  and 
generous  forbearance  which  lift  man  above  the  brutes, 
were  for  a  time  overwhelmed,  in  a  majority  of  the  pris- 


372  SALEZAR'S  BRUTALITY. 

oners,  by  long  starvation  and  great  bodily  suffering ; 
and  now,  as  the  savage  who  had  charge  of  them  tossed 
the  miserable  pittance  in  the  air,  it  was  a  study  to  watch 
their  eager  faces  as  it  descended,  to  see  with  what  wolf- 
like  ferocity  they  would  rush  to  secure  the  prize,  and 
the  terrible  struggle  which  was  sure  to  ensue  ere  some 
one,  stronger  than  his  fellows,  could  secure  it.  Salezar 
was  accompanied  by  our  old  acquaintance,  Don  Jesus, 
in  this  distribution  ;  and  the  satisfaction  with  which  they 
watched  the"  fierce  conflicts  marked  a  new  leaf  in  the 
dreadful  chapter  of  human  depravity. 

This  revolting  scene  was  scarcely  over  before  we 
were  ordered  to  commence  the  day's  march.  Sore  and 
stiff  in  every  bone  and  joint,  we  started,  many  of  the 
men  being  hardly  able  to  hobble  and  halt  along  over 
the  rough  and  rocky  hills  which  now  intervened  be- 
tween Pecos  and  the  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande ;  but  as 
the  sun  gradually  dispersed  the  morning  mists,  and  ex- 
ercise warmed  our  limbs  and  reduced  the  stiffness  in 
our  joints,  we  were  enabled  to  move  with  less  pain. 
Our  course  was  now  nearly  south.  The  road  forks 
near  Pecos,  the  right-hand  branch  leading  directly  to- 
wards Santa  Fe,  while  the  left,  which  we  were  now  to 
take,  is  the  regular  thoroughfare  towards  Albuquerque 
and  the  other  towns  on  the  Rio  Grande. 

After  a  march  of  some  thirty  miles,  during  which  the 
men  suffered  incredibly  from  hunger,  thirst,  and  extreme 
lameness,  night  overtook  us  at  the  small  rancho  of  a 
man  named  Pino,  a  brother  of  the  brute  of  that  name 
mentioned  in  a  former  chapter.  Before  reaching  it,  my 
feet  were  so  badly  swollen  and  blistered  that  I  was 
obliged  to  draw  off  my  boots,  and  finish  the  march  with 
no  other  protection  against  tho  short  and  prickly  grass 
than  my  stockings ;  yet  many  of  my  fellow-prisoners 


A   GENEROUS    MEXICAN.  373 

were  unfortunately  worse  off  than  myself,  their  feet 
bleeding  at  every  step. 

We  were  driven,  one  by  one,  into  a  cow-pen  or  yard, 
and  there  encamped  for  the  night,  Salezar  distributing 
a  pint  cup  of  meal  to  each  man  after  having  satisfied 
himself  that  none  of  us  were  missing.  Even  in  his  mode 
of  counting  us  he  exhibited  his  characteristic  brutality  ; 
for  just  as  they  drive  sheep  or  cattle  into  pens  in  New 
Mexico,  with  the  intention  of  enumerating  them,  so  had 
he  driven  us ! 

A  fence,  which  enclosed  our  pen,  here  partially  pro- 
tected us  from  the  biting  north  wind,  and  in  the  early 
part  of  the  night  we  were  enabled  to  catch  a  little  sleep. 
Towards  morning,  however,  the  weather  changed  to 
such  a  degree  of  coldness  that  farther  repose  was  im- 
possible— it  was  so  cold  that  the  frost  was  plainly  visi- 
ble on  our  thin  blankets.  So  stiff  and  benumbed  were 
the  men  by  this  time,  from  cold,  want  of  sleep,  and  the 
excessive  fatigue  they  had  undergone,  that  even  an  or- 
der to  rise  at  daybreak  and  continue  the  march  was  re- 
ceived with  joy  by  all — it  would  at  least  enable  us  to 
obtain  warmth,  and  lessen  the  acute  pains  we  felt  in 
every  bone. 

From  Pino  we  learned  that  General  McLeod,  Mr. 
Navarro,  Dr.  Whittaker,  Captains  Houghton  and  Hud- 
son, with  two  or  three  other  officers,  had  passed  the 
previous  night  at  his  rancho,  and  were  provided  with 
comfortable  quarters.  They  had  been  sent  forward 
one  day  in  advance  of  the  main  body,  on  horseback,  and 
as  they  were  fortunate  enough  to  fall  into  the  hands  of 
an  officer  of  humane  feeling,  were  well  treated.  The 
name  of  this  officer,  if  I  remember  aright,  was  Quintana, 
and  our  friends  who  were  under  his  charge  always 
spoke  of  him  as  a  kind-hearted,  gentlemanly  man. 

VOL.  I.— 1 1 


S74  PEDAL   SUFFERINGS. 

A  walk  of  two  or  three  hours,  after  leaving  the  ran- 
cho,  relieved  our  limbs  of  the  torturing  pains  felt  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  night,  but  our  frostbitten  feet  now 
began  swelling  and  paining  us  severely.  The  road  of 
the  two  previous  days  had  led  over  mountains  and  rug- 
ged hills ;  we  now  struck  upon  the  valley  of  a  small 
stream  running  into  the  Rio  Grande  a  short  distance  to 
our  right.  After  a  long  and  toilsome  march,  our  men 
suffering  at  every  step,  we  encamped  upon  the  borders 
of  the  little  stream  for  the  night.  Here  we  experienced 
great  relief  from  bathing  our  inflamed  and  swollen  feet 
in  its  cold  waters. 

After  issuing  to  each  man  a  miserable  pittance  of 
barley-bread,  so  hard  that  it  was  impossible  to  eat  it 
without  much  boiling,  Salezar  told  us  that  his  orders 
from  Armijo  were  to  tie  us  every  night ;  but,  as  we 
were  very  tired,  his  humanity  prevented  him  from  car- 
rying out  the  orders  !  He  placed  a  strong  guard  around 
us,  however,  and  coolly  remarked  that  if  a  single  man 
was  missing  in  the  morning  the  whole  party  would  be 
instantly  shot !  The  heartless  wretch  took  especial 
good  care  that  none  should  make  an  attempt  of  this 
kind,  by  working  the  men  so  hard  during  the  day  that 
they  willingly  sank  upon  the  ground  at  night  with  hard- 
ly the  power  of  moving. 

A  biting,  chilly  evening  was  followed  by  a  heavy 
frost  towards  morning.  Sleep  was  out  of  the  question 
— we  could  only  curl  up,  and  by  nestling  close  to  each 
other  upon  the  cold  ground,  keep  from  freezing.  At 
daylight  we  were  ordered  to  be  ready  to  march,  and 
before  sunrise  were  again  upon  the  road,  with  nothing 
to  eat.  To  let  my  readers  know  the  horrible  condition 
of  our  feet,  I  will  here  state,  that,  for  the  next  ten  days 
after  this,  I  was  unable  to  pull  off  my  stockings  without 


KIND-HEARTED    WOMEN.  375 

bringing  the  skin  with  them.  The  large  blisters  would 
break  during  the  day,  and  the  exudation,  as  it  dried, 
adhere  firmly  to  my  stockings,  so  that  I  was  obliged  to 
keep  them  on  although  full  of  gravel,  and  torturing  me 
at  every  step.  Many  of  my  companions  suffered  much 
more  from  frostbitten  feet  than  myself,  their  toe-nails 
coming  off,  in  consequence,  before  we  got  through  our 
journey. 

At  a  brisk  pace  we  were  hurried  forward,  reaching 
the  little  village  of  Santo  Domingo  before  it  was  yet 
noon,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles  from  our  camping- 
ground  of  the  previous  night.  At  this  village  our  men 
first  had  cause  to  thank  the  women  for  their  kindness. 
The  latter  came  running  out  of  the  mud  houses  in  every 
direction,  bringing  tortillas,  baked  pumpkins,  and  dry 
ears  of  corn,  and  fairly  shedding  tears  at  our  forlorn 
and  miserable  appearance.  The  corn  was  our  princi- 
pal food,  and  was  swallowed  after  simply  roasting  the 
ears  a  short  time  before  the  fire,  although  many  of  the 
more  hungry  among  our  men  ate  it  raw. 

A  little  farther  on,  we  entered  the  village  of  San 
Felipe,  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande  now  seen  to  the 
right.  Our  course  was  nearly  south,  occasionally  ap- 
proaching the  banks  of  the  river,  and  then  leaving  it  as 
the  turns  threw  us  off.  The  women  of  San  Felipe 
were  in  every  way  as  charitable  as  those  of  San  to  Do- 
mingo. Many  of  them  openly  reproached  Armijo  as  a 
brute  unfit  to  live,  and  even  the  men  took  every  oppor- 
tunity to  manifest  their  sorrow  that  we  had  fallen  into 
his  hands. 

Towards  night  we  reached  Algodnes,  a  small  vil- 
lage near  the  Rio  Grande,  and  here  we  encamped. 
That  the  night  would  be  unusually  cold  we  were  well 
aware,  and  Mr.  Van  Ness  was  requested  by  the  men 


376  SUFFOCATION. 

to  ask  Salezar  if  he  could  possibly  procure  shelter. 
Two  small  rooms,  with  a  door  leading  from  one  to  the 
other,  and  together  hardly  large  enough  for  twenty 
men,  were  provided,  and  into  these  over  one  hundred 
and  eighty  of  us  were  driven  like  so  many  sheep,  and 
the  heavy  wooden  door  locked  upon  us.  To  lie  down, 
or  even  sit  down,  was  out  of  the  question,  and  a  scene 
of  misery  and  desperation  soon  ensued  which  beggars 
description. 

In  the  rear  room  there  was  no  window,  or  other 
opening  for  a  circulation  of  the  air,  except  the  door 
which  opened  into  the  front  room,  and  this  was  block- 
ed up  by  the  mass  who  had  crowded  towards  it.  In 
the  front  room  was  a  single  open  window,  two  feet 
in  height,  perhaps,  by  eighteen  inches  in  width,  and 
through  this  small  aperture  came  all  the  fresh  air  that 
was  to  be  inhaled  by  nearly  two  hundred  persons  !  In 
this  room,  and  within  three  yards  of  the  window,  I 
stood  firmly  wedged  and  jammed  by  human  flesh,  un- 
able to  move  either  forward  or  backward,  to  the  right 
or  to  the  left ;  yet  even  at  this  short  distance  from  the 
window  I  soon  felt  sensations  of  suffocation — what, 
then,  must  have  been  the  feelings  of  those  in  the  farther 
room? 

Soon  outcries  arose  from  those  in  the  rear.  Half 
stifled,  they  shouted  aloud  to  those  in  front  to  break 
open  or  tear  down  the  door,  and  madly  pressed  for- 
ward as  if  to  assist  in  accomplishing  the  object  of  their 
wishes.  In  the  mean  time,  those  nearest  the  window, 
who  could  speak  Spanish,  begged  the  guard  to  open 
the  door  and  allow  at  least  a  part  to  leave  the  house ; 
but  the  latter  either  could  not  hear  their  entreaties 
above  the  din,  or  heeded  them  not.  Half  suffocated, 
and  with  sensations  of  sickness  and  giddiness,  thoughts 


BLACK  HOLE  OF  CALCUTTA.  377 

of  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta,  with  its  attendant  train 
of  horrors,  now  came  over  us ;  and  I  am  confident  that 
an  order  for  instant  execution  would  have  been  prefer- 
red, by  many,  to  passing  the  night  in  that  dismal,  dark, 
and  horrible  place.  An  attempt  to  open  the  door  in- 
wardly was  now  made,  but  so  great  was  the  press  in 
that  direction  that  it  was  found  impossible  to  effect  this 
desirable  object ;  a  battering-ram  of  human  flesh  was 
next  brought  to  bear  upon  it,  and  with  all  the  energy 
which  desperation  lends  did  our  men  endeavour  to 
burst  lock  or  hinges — but  it  gave  not  away.  In  the 
midst  of  cries,  imprecations,  and  half-smothered  anath- 
emas, we  now  heard  a  key  turning  in  the  clumsy  and 
ponderous  lock — Salezar  had  consented  to  pass  fifty  of 
us  out,  but  no  more. 

Being  near  the  door,  as  the  guard  without  opened 
it,  I  was  carried  out  in  the  current  among  the  first. 
How  grateful,  how  instantaneous  was  the  relief !  Cold 
as  was  the  northern  blast,  it  was  pure — we  could  now 
breathe.  The  guard  escorted  us  to  a  cow-yard,  and 
there  herded  us  for  the  night.  I  crawled  under  the  lee 
of  a  low  mud  wall,  still  reeking  with  the  perspiration 
which  had  issued  from  every  pore  while  undergoing 
the  tortures  of  heat  and  suffocation  —  the  cold  wind 
penetrated  my  blanket  and  chilled  me  through,  yet  I 
was  content.  So  piercing  was  the  blast,  that  even  our 
guard  left  their  posts,  and  sought  the  friendly  shelter 
of  the  neighbouring  houses,  yet  we  had  neither  the 
power  nor  inclination  to  attempt  an  escape.  Huddled 
together  under  the  walls,  shivering  with  the  cold  and 
without  a  minute's  sleep,  we  passed  the  hours  until 
morning  came ;  yet  even  for  this  poor  boon  we  felt 
thankful — felt  rejoiced  that  we  had  escaped  the  horrid 
tortures  of  suffocation. 


378  MEXICAN    INDIANS. 

On  the  21st  of  October,  Salezar  giving  us  no  other 
rations  before  starting  than  an  ear  of  dry,  hard  corn  to 
each  man,  we  reached  the  large  Indian  village  of  San 
Dias.  The  pueblos,  or  town  Indians  of  New  Mexico, 
are  by  far  the  better  part  of  the  population — are  frugal, 
industrious,  and  honest — cultivate  the  land,  and  are  very 
kind-hearted  and  hospitable  to  all  strangers.  Their  reli- 
gion is  Roman  Catholic,  mixed  up  with  many  of  their 
own  superstitious  rites  and  ceremonies,  and  the  same 
may  be  said  of  nearly  all  the  inhabitants  of  New  Mex- 
ico. The  Indians  certainly  retain,  to  the  present  day, 
many  of  their  original  rituals,  feasts,  and  ceremonies, 
having  ingrafted  such  of  the  Romish  rites  only  as  were 
calculated  to  strike  the  eye  by  their  imposing  pageant- 
ry. Stories  of  their  strange  ceremonies  I  myself  heard, 
while  at  Sandia  and  other  towns  upon  our  march, 
but  one  that  was  told  General  Pike  is  more  singular 
than  all.  If  this  tale  be  true,  it  would  seem  that  once 
a  year  there  is  a  great  feast,  prepared  for  three  succes- 
sive days,  which  time  is  spent  in  eating,  drinking,  and 
dancing.  Near  this  scene  of  amusement  is  a  dismal, 
gloomy  cave,  into  which  not  a  glimpse  of  light  can  pen- 
etrate, and  where  places  of  repose  are  provided  for  the 
revellers.  To  this  cave,  after  dark,  repair  grown  per- 
sons, of  every  age  and  sex,  who  pass  the  night  in  in- 
dulgences of  the  most  gross  and  sensual  description. 
Such  is  the  account  given  of  one  of  their  ceremonies, 
cloaking,  under  a  religious  guise,  an  indiscriminate 
commerce,  which  bears  strong  resemblance  to  some  of 
the  mystic  revels  of  the  ancients. 

At  Sandia  the  population  came  out  in  a  body  to 
see  us,  and  during  a  short  halt  the  women  gave  to 
each  of  our  men  a  watermelon,  besides  apples,  cakes, 
and,  in  fact,  everything  they  could  spare.  A  gray- 


THEIR  DRESS  AND  CHARACTER.          379 

headed  old  man,  who  had  been  in  St.  Louis  several 
times,  and  who  spoke  a  little  English,  told  us  that  the 
people  were  in  our  favour,  and  that  Armijo  was 
universally  hated  and  despised.  He  would  have  said 
more,  but  our  guard  hurried  us  from  the  place.  The 
dress  of  these  people  varies  but  little  from  that  of  the 
Mexicans  ;  that  of  the  men  being  a  coarse  cotton  shirt 
and  loose  and  flowing  drawers  of  the  same  material, 
over  which  they  draw  a  pair  of  leather  or  cloth  panta- 
loons, open  from  the  knee  downward,  and  flapping 
about  whenever  they  are  in  motion.  The  women — 
and,  for  Indian  women,  many  of  them  had  strong  pre- 
tensions to  beauty — were,  attired  simply  in  a  chemise 
and  blue  woollen  petticoat. 

The  inhabitants  cultivate  the  soil,  live  principally 
upon  corn  and  pumpkins,  and  appear  to  be  a  simple, 
mild,  and  inoffensive  people — not  having  the  spirit  to 
rise  upon  their  cowardly  oppressors.  Their  complex- 
ion is  a  light,  clear  brown,  or  copper ;  their  limbs  are 
symmetrical,  and  denoting  great  activity  and  strength, 
while  their  eyes  are  dark  and  piercing,  yet  possessing 
a  singular  mildness  and  an  expression  of  resignation. 

We  should  have  remained  a  night  at  Sandia ;  but 
the  policy  of  Salezar  being  to  tire  and  worry  us  down 
to  such  a  degree  that  there  would  be  no  possibility  of 
our  attempting  an  escape,  we  were  barely  allowed  to 
pass  some  five  minutes  in  the  place.  After  a  long  and 
tedious  march  in  the  afternoon,  many  of  our  men  nearly 
ready  to  drop  from  pain  and  exhaustion,  we  finally  reach- 
ed a  little  village  called  Alameda.  Here  we  were  penned 
in  a  large  yard,  without  any  protection  from  the  cold. 
In  the  early  part  of  the  night  I  made  out  to  catch  a  lit- 
tle sleep,  but  before  midnight  it  was  so  cold  that  I  rose, 
to  find,  if  possible,  a  warmer  location.  I  tried  to  crawl 


380  A   DASHING   RIDER. 

into  a  large  oven  standing  in  the  yard,  but  found  it 
already  occupied  by  two  or  three  of  my  companions. 
Surely,  misery  not  only  makes  us  acquainted  with 
strange  bedfellows,  but  also  with  strange  beds. 

In  the  morning,  and  after  we  had  each  received  our 
day's  ration — a  hard  ear  of  corn — the  tiresome  march 
was  continued.  Passing  through  the  fertile  bottoms  of 
the  Rio  Grande,  the  land  on  either  side  of  the  road  cov- 
ered with  cornstalks  from  which  the  ears  had  but  re- 
cently been  plucked,  about  ten  o'clock  the  still  distant 
church  of  Albuquerque  appeared  in  view.  The  land  in 
the  vicinity  of  this  city  appears  to  be  under  a  higher 
degree  of  cultivation  than  in  any  other  part  of  New 
Mexico.  The  inhabitants  do  not  depend  upon  rain  in 
making  their  crops,  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  entire  val- 
ley appears  intersected  by  irrigating  canals,  from  which 
the  waters  drawn  from  the  broad  but  shallow  Rio 
Grande  can  at  any  time  be  let  upon  the  earth.  Among 
the  stubble,  on  either  side  of  the  road,  we  noticed  im- 
mense flocks  of  blue  and  white  herons  and  wild  geese, 
so  exceedingly  tame  that  we  could  approach  within  a 
few  yards  of  them.  The  Mexicans  seldom  kill  them, 
and  hence  their  tameness. 

We  were  yet  some  two  or  three  miles  distant  from 
Albuquerque,  journeying  along  at  a  rapid  pace,  when  a 
single  horseman  was  seen  speeding  across  the  fields  and 
making  directly  towards  us  at  a  sweeping  gallop.  Soon 
he  was  up  with  the  rear  of  the  party,  when  checking 
his  horse  into  a  prancing  canter,  he  politely  raised  his 
hat  and  with  great  cordiality  addressed  the  prisoners  as 
gentlemen  while  riding  up  the  line  towards  the  head. 
His  horse  was  a  beautiful  black,  of  glossy  skin,  clean 
and  well-made  limbs,  spirited  eye,  expanded  nostrils, 
and  proud  and  gallant  action — the  rider,  a  gay,  dash- 


SINGULAR   ADVENTURE.  381 

ing,  and  handsome  Mexican,  dressed  in  a  pair  of  green 
velvet  trousers,  slashed  at  the  sides,  and  with  a  profu- 
sion of  bell,  buttons,  while  his  close,  neatly-fitting  jacket, 
although  now  somewhat  faded  and  worn,  showed  him 
a  fashionable  blade  among  his  countrymen,  and  alto- 
gether a  different  personage  from  the  ragged  rabble  by 
whom  we  were  surrounded.  There  was  a  flashing, 
dare-devil  expression  in  his  eye,  too,  and  a  jaunty  set 
to  his  hat — and  then  he  sat  so  fearlessly  in  his  saddle 
while  his  proud  steed  curvetted  and  caracoled  along, 
as  if  impatient  of  the  slow  pace  at  which  he  was  com- 
pelled to  amble,  that  we  could  not  but  look  with  admi- 
ration at  both  horse  and  rider,  so  gallant  was  their 
bearing. 

The  horseman  rode  twice  up  and  down  the  line  of 
prisoners,  nodding  gracefully  as  he  passed,  and  eyeing 
the  crowd  as  if  in  search  of  a  friend.  By-and-by  his 
eye  fell  upon  one  of  our  officers,  Lieutenant  Hornsby, 
who  happened  to  be  the  best-dressed  man  in  the  party. 
His  well-wadded  and  full-buttoned  Texan  dragoon- 
jacket  was  new,  or  nearly  new,  his  cap  and  military 
trousers  had  seen  but  little  service,  while  his  blanket 
was  of  that  fiery  and  showy  red  which  could  not  fail  to 
attract  in  a  country  where  gaudy  and  glaring  colours 
are  so  much  sought  after  and  admired. 

The  Mexican  cavalier  at  once  checked  his  steed  on 
seeing  Hornsby,  and  immediately  asked  him  if  he  was 
tired.  This  was  a  question  he  could  not  but  answer  in 
the  affirmative.  The  horseman  then  asked  H.  to  jump 
up  behind  him — his  horse,  he  said,  could  easily  carry 
double,  and  a  short  ride  would  rest  the  weary  limbs  of 
el  prisionero.  Instantly  Hornsby  was  comfortably  seat- 
ed behind  his  new  friend.  The  Mexican  told  him  to 
place  one  arm  around  his  waist,  and  then  to  hold  fast : 


382  AN    ABDUCTION. 

Hornsby  did  so.  The  next  moment  the  horseman  sud- 
denly wheeled  his  steed  in  an  opposite  direction  from 
that  we  were  pursuing,  plunged  his  heavy  Mexican  spurs 
in  the  animal's  sides,  and  dashed  off  at  a  speed  which 
was  truly  astonishing  considering  the  heavy  weight  his 
steed  was  obliged  to  carry.  He  did  not  pursue  the  road 
over  which  we  had  just  travelled,  but  leaving  it  a  little 
to  the  right,  struck  off  diagonally  across  fields  and  pas- 
tures. Here  was  an  abduction,  and  we  could  not  help 
congratulating  our  friend  upon  his  good  fortune.  When- 
ever the  party  came  to  an  irrigating  ditch  the  horse 
would  stop,  brace  himself,  settle  firmly  upon  his  haunch- 
es, and  then  at  a  bound  carry  both  his  riders  safely 
across.  In  the  mean  time  we  continued  our  journey 
towards  Albuquerque,  yet  we  could  not  but  turn  our 
eyes,  ever  and  anon,  to  gaze  at  our  rapidly-receding 
comrade.  We  watched  him  until  naught  could  be  seen 
but  his  red  blanket  rising  and  falling  gently  in  the  dis- 
tance from  the  motion  of  the  horse,  and  when  we  final- 
ly turned  from  gazing  it  was  with  the  firm  belief  that 
we  were  not  soon  to  look  upon  him  again. 

About  noon  we  entered  Albuquerque,  somewhat 
famed  for  the  beauty  of  its  women,  besides  being  the 
largest  place  in  the  province  of  New  Mexico,  and  the 
residence  of  Armijo  a  part  of  the  year.*  His  family 

*  General  Pike,  in  his  Narrative,  speaks  of  having  met  with  numbers  of 
beautiful  women  at  this  place  during  a  couple  of  days  he  spent  there,  in  the 
winter  of  1807,  while  on  his  journey  from  Santa  Fe  to  Chihuahua,  a  prison- 
er. The  following  I  quote  from  his  journal :  "  We  were  received,  at  Albu- 
querque, by  Father  Ambrosio  Guerra  in  a  very  flattering  manner,  and  led  into 
his  hall.  From  thence,  after  taking  some  refreshment,  into  an  inner  apart- 
ment, where  he  ordered  his  adopted  children,  of  the  female  sex,  to  appear, 
when  they  came  in  by  turns,  Indians  of  various  nations,  Spanish,  French, 
and  finally,  two  young  girls,  whom,  from  their  complexion,  I  conceived  to  be 
English :  on  perceiving  I  noticed  them,  he  ordered  the  rest  to  retire,  many 
of  whom  were  beautiful,  and  directed  those  to  sit  down  on  the  sofa  beside 
me ;  thus  situated,  he  told  me  they  had  been  taken  to  the  east  by  the  Te- 


A    RUSTIC    BEAUTY.  383 

were  living  here  when  we  passed  through,  and  treated 
Van  Ness,  who  was  allowed  many  liberties  by  Salezar, 
with  much  respect  and  consideration — loading  him  with 
excellent  bread  and  other  luxuries  on  his  departure. 
As  we  were  marched  directly  through  the  principal 
streets  the  inhabitants  were  gathered  on  either  side  to 
gaze  at  the  estrangeros,  as  we  were  called.  The  wom- 
en, with  all  kindness  of  heart,  gave  our  men  corn,  pump- 
kins, bread,  and  everything  they  could  spare  from  their 
scanty  store  as  we  passed,  and  had  Salezar  allowed  us 
to  remain  but  an  hour,  all  our  immediate  wants  would 
have  been  supplied  ;  but  the  hard-hearted  wretch  ap- 
peared to  delight  in  acts  of  cruelty,  and  drove  us  through 
with  scarcely  a  halt  of  ten  minutes. 

It  was  at  Albuquerque  that  I  saw  a  perfect  speci- 
men of  female  loveliness.  The  girl  was  poor,  being 
dressed  only  in  a  chemise  and  coarse  woollen  petticoat ; 
yet  there  was  an  air  of  grace,  a  charm  about  her,  that 
neither  birth  nor  fortune  can  bestow.  She  was  stand- 
ing upon  a  mud-wall,  the  taper  fingers  of  her  right  hand 
supporting  a  large  pumpkin  upon  her  head,  while  her 
left  was  gracefully  resting  upon  her  hip.  Her  dark, 
full,  and  lustrous  eyes,  overarched  with  brows  of  pen- 
cilled regularity,  and  fringed  with  lashes  of  long  and 

taus,  passed  from  one  nation  to  another  until  he  purchased  them,  at  that 
time  infants,  but  they  could  recollect  neither  their  names  nor  language  ;  but 
concluding  they  were  my  countrywomen,  he  ordered  them  to  embrace  me  as 
a  mark  of  friendship,  to  which  they  appeared  nothing  loath.  We  then  sat 
down  to  dinner,  which  consisted  of  various  dishes,  excellent  wines,  and  to 
crown  all,  we  were  waited  on  by  half  a  dozen  of  those  beautiful  girls,  who, 
like  Hebe  at  the  feast  of  the  gods,  converted  our  wine  into  nectar,  and  with 
their  ambrosial  breath  shed  incense  on  our  cups."  Now,  I  neither  saw  as 
much  nor  enjoyed  myself  as  well  while  a  prisoner  at  Albuquerque,  as  did 
General  Pike  when  he  passed  through  there  under  circumstances  somewhat 
similar ;  still,  I  saw  enough  to  convince  me  that  the  race  of  pretty  girls  has 
not  altogether  degenerated,  a  fact  of  which  my  reader  will  be  acquainted  by 
reading  the  two  following  pages. 


384  BEAUTY    UNADORNED. 

silken  texture,  beamed  upon  us  full  of  tenderness  and 
pity,  while  an  unbidden  tear  of  sorrow  at  our  misfor- 
tunes was  coursing  down  a  cheek  of  the  purest  and 
richest  olive.  Her  beautifully-curved  lips,  half  opened 
as  if  in  pity  and  astonishment  at  a  scene  so  uncommon, 
disclosed  teeth  of  pearly,  dazzling  whiteness.  Innocence 
and  the  best  feelings  of  our  nature  were  playing  in  ev- 
ery lineament  of  that  lovely  face,  and  ever  and  anon, 
as  some  one  of  us  more  unfortunate  than  the  rest  would 
limp  halting  by,  again  her  tears  would  gush  from  their 
fountains  and  illumine  a  countenance  of  purity.  If 

"  Crystal  tears  from  pity's  eye 
Are  the  stars  in  heaven  high," 

some  of  them  fell  that  day  from  the  poor  village  girl, 
drawn  from  their  firmament  to  lighten  the  sorrows  of 
those  upon  whom  misfortune  had  laid  her  heavy  hand. 
She  could  not  be  more  than  fifteen ;  yet  her  loose  and 
flowing  dress,  but  half  concealing  a  bust  of  surpassing 
beauty  and  loveliness,  plainly  disclosed  that  she  was 
just  entering  womanhood.  Her  figure  was  faultless, 
and  even  the  chisel  of  Praxiteles  himself  never  modelled 
ankles  of  such  pure  and  classic  elegance. 

As  the  long  and  straggling  line  of  prisoners  passed 
the  spot  upon  which  this  lovely  form  was  standing,  sore 
and  worn  down  by  long  marches,  and  want  of  food  and 
sleep,  her  rare  beauty  drew  the  eyes  of  all  towards  her, 
and  exclamations  of  wonder  were  upon  every  lip.  She 
understood  not  our  language,  and  in  the  artless  simpli- 
city of  her  nature  knew  not  that  her  singular  loveliness, 
combined  with  the  display  of  charms  her  unstudied  yet 
graceful  attitude  and  scanty  dress  had  given,  was  the 
theme  of  almost  universal  admiration. 

She  beckoned  to  a  youth  among  the  prisoners,  a  Ger- 
man lad  but  little  older  than  herself,  and  presented  him 


THE   TWO   LOVELIEST.  385 

the  pumpkin  with  infinite  delicacy  and  grace ;  and  as 
she  did  it,  the  exclamation  pobrecito  was  heard  gently 
falling  from  her  lips  in  tones  of  softest  pity.  The  fair- 
est flowers  are  oftenest  found  in  obscurity,  and  I  trust 
my  readers  will  not  doubt  my  sincerity  when  I  assert 
that  the  prettiest  girl  I  ever  saw  was  selling  woollen 
stockings  at  twenty-five  cents  a  pair  at  Holmes's  Hole, 
Massachusetts — her  twin-sister  in  beauty  was  standing 
in  her  bare  feet  upon  a  mud- wall  at  Albuquerque,  New 
Mexico,  with  a  pumpkin  on  her  head ! 

I  lingered  to  take  a  last  look  at  the  beautiful  girl,  and 
when  I  turned  from  the  spot  I  could  not  but  regret  that 
the  lot  of  one  so  kind-hearted  and  so  fair  had  been  cast 
in  such  a  place.  There  are  faces  we  see  in  our  journey 
through  life  surpassingly  beautiful,  faces  that  leave  a 
deep  and  lasting  impression  on  the  beholders,  and  hers 
was  one  of  them.  Among  the  crowds  of  beauty  her 
image  will  stand  out  in  bold  relief,  and  not  one  of  those 
who  saw  her  on  the  day  we  passed  through  Albuquer- 
que will  ever  forget  her. 

VOL.  I.— K  K 


386      SALEZAR'S  NOTIONS  OF  EATING. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Los  Placeres.  —  Another  dark  Leaf  in  Salezar's  Character.  —  Wom^n  and 
Watermelons.  —  Reappearance  of  Lieutenant  Hornsby.  —  His  singular 
Story  of  Adventure. — The  dashing  Horseman  and  his  gentle  and  generous 
Wife. — Arrival  at  Valencia. — Farther  Sufferings  of  the  Prisoners. — Kind- 
ness of  an  old  Woman. — Death  of  Ernest. — An  American  Traveller. — Cru- 
el Murder  of  McAllister. — Its  Effect  upon  the  Prisoners. — Casa  Colorada. 
— A  comfortable  Camp. — Appearance  of  the  Valley  of  the  Rio  Grande. — 
Uses  of  the  Cotton-wood. — Salezar  and  the  Alcaldes. — The  Mexican  But- 
ton Market.  —  Straits  to  which  the  Prisoners  were  driven.  —  A  Story  of 
Stump. — Magoffin's  Wagons  passed. — American  Drivers. — Not  allowed  to 
hold  Converse  with  them. — Arrival  at  Joya.— A  Fandango. — Salezar  Drunk. 
— Conduct  of  the  American  Drivers  on  the  Occasion. — Parrida. — Crossing 
the  Rio  Grande. — Arrival  at  Socorro. — A  short  Rest  allowed. — Character 
of  the  Inhabitants. — A  Party  of  Apaches. — Anecdote  of  the  Priest  of  Socor- 
ro.— Head  Chief  of  the  Apaches. — His  dignified  Bearing. — Obsequiousness 
of  Salezar. — Bosque  de  los  Apaches. — Recrossing  the  Rio  Grande. — The 
Camp  of  Fray  Cristobal.  —  A  Snow-storm  at  Night.  —  Appearance  of  the 
Prisoners  by  Daylight. — Colds  and  Coughs. 

AFTER  leaving  Albuquerque,  we  continued  our  march 
through  a  succession  of  cultivated  fields  and  pastures 
until  we  reached  a  small  rancho  called  Los  Placeres, 
and  here  we  were  encamped  for  the  night.  Nothing 
was  given  us  to  eat,  and  on  complaining  to  Salezar  that 
we  were  very  hungry,  he  pointed  to  the  spot  where  his 
mules  and  horses  were  feeding,  and  said  that  the  gra- 
zing was  excellent !  Because  many  of  the  prisoners 
swallowed  the  corn  given  them  by  the  women  raw,  the 
fellow  called  them  wolves  and  hogs. 

At  this  place  we  were  visited  by  a  family  of  Mexican 
women  of  no  inconsiderable  wealth,  who  lived  at  a  ran- 
cho some  little  distance  from  our  road.  It  consisted  of 
a  mother  and  her  two  daughters,  and  I  will  venture  the 
assertion  that  either  of  the  latter  weighed  more  than 


RETURN    OP   HORNSBY.  387 

two  hundred  pounds,  and  will  also  declare  positively 
that  neither  of  them  was  very  prepossessing  in  appear- 
ance. They  had  brought  two  large  watermelons  as  a 
present,  and  while  one  of  the  girls  bestowed  a  melon 
upon  one  of  my  companions,  her  sister  made  choice  of 
me  as  the  recipient  of  the  other.  I  gave  the  girl  the 
customary  mil  gracias,  or  thousand  thanks,  as  I  re- 
ceived the  melon ;  had  the  pretty  one  of  Albuquerque 
given  me  that  pumpkin  I  should  have  been  far  better 
satisfied. 

Not  a  little  astonished  were  we,  when,  towards  even- 
ing, our  absent  comrade,  Hornsby,  with  a  chopfallen 
countenance  and  a  half- worn  jacket  a  world  too  small 
for  him.  was  seen  approaching,  his  Mexican  friend,  the 
dashing  horseman,  setting  him  down  near  our  quarters 
and  then  galloping  off  in  the  direction  of  his  home.  A 
singular  story  did  the  lieutenant  tell  of  his  adventure, 
the  substance  of  which  was  as  follows : 

On  first  mounting  behind  the  Mexican,  he  supposed 
that  the  fellow  simply  intended  carrying  him  a  mile  or 
two  on  the  route — perhaps  to  Albuquerque,  which  was 
then  in  sight ;  but  to  his  astonishment  the  man  wheeled 
his  horse  suddenly  round,  and  struck  off  across  the 
fields  at  a  tremendous  pace.  Hornsby  had  employ- 
ment enough  in  hanging  on  to  his  new  friend,  to  avoid 
being  thrown  off  as  the  gallant  horse  leaped  the  irriga- 
ting canals,  so  that,  to  use  his  own  words,  he  had  no 
time  to  speculate  upon  the  singularity  of  his  adventure, 
or  upon  the  intentions  of  the  wild  horseman  who  was 
giving  him  such  a  race.  A  hard  ride  of  three  or  four 
miles  brought  them  to  a  house  of  neater  construction 
and  finish  than  were  possessed  by  the  generality  of 
Mexican  dwellings.  It  was  a  solitary  house,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  about  half  a  mile  from  the  road  he  had 


388  AN   UNEXPECTED    FEAST. 

•walked  over  but  a  short  time  previous.  Once  at  the 
door,  the  Mexican  threw  himself  lightly  from  his  ani- 
mal, and,  after  assisting  Hornsby  to  dismount,  politely 
asked  him  to  enter  his  dwelling.  There  was  an  air  of 
neatness  and  comfort  within,  and  the  furniture  betoken- 
ed a  style  of  living  which  formed  a  singular  contrast 
with  the  destitution  apparent  in  even  the  better  class 
of  houses  upon  the  road. 

His  strange  host  led  the  way  into  a  room  in  which 
the  furniture  and  appointments  were  absolutely  luxuri- 
ous. Over  the  fireplace  was  a  large  mirror ;  two  or 
three  scriptural  paintings,  one  of  them  a  well-executed 
portrait  of  the  Virgin,  adorned  the  walls  ;  while  upon 
a  sideboard  was  neatly  arranged  a  set  of  decanters 
and  tumblers,  all  of  cut  glass,  and  of  admirable  work- 
manship. Here  the  Mexican  left  him  for  a  moment, 
but  soon  returned  with  a  massive  silver  pitcher  filled 
with  cool  water. 

Unfortunately,  Hornsby  could  speak  but  little  Span- 
ish, and  was,  consequently,  unable  to  carry  on  a  regu- 
lar conversation  with  his  host ;  but  when  the  latter 
pointed  to  a  tumbler,  and  then  to  a  decanter  of  brandy, 
our  lieutenant  understood  him  perfectly,  and  manifested 
his  knowledge  of  signs  by  helping  himself  to  a  bounti- 
ful allowance.  At  this  juncture  the  wife  of  the  gay 
cavalier,  a  mild-eyed,  pretty  woman,  entered  the  apart- 
ment, and,  exchanging  a  few  words  with  her  husband, 
led  the  way  to  a  table  in  another  room,  which  was 
fairly  groaning  under  the  weight  of  a  hot  and  sumptu- 
ous breakfast  Hornsby,  now  more  astonished  than 
ever,  and  wondering  how  this  adventure  was  to  termi- 
nate, took  a  seat  at  the  table  in  silence,  and  ate  a  hearti- 
er meal  than  he  had  done  for  months.  Both  the  hus- 
band and  wife  were  assiduous  in  their  attentions,  and 


EXCHANGE    A    ROBBERY.  3S9 

pressed  dish  after  dish  upon  him  with  a  most  zealous 
courtesy. 

Breakfast  over,  the  wife  brought  in  a  package  of  ci- 
garritos,  or  shuck  cigars,  and  after  the  husband  had  lit 
one  of  them  by  means  of  the  flint  and  steel  which  every 
Mexican  carries  in  his  pocket,  and  had  politely  asked 
his  guest  to  join  him  in  a  smoke,  he  opened  the  business 
which  had  induced  him  to  invite  Hornsby  to  his  dwell- 
ing. By  words,  and  more  particularly  by  signs,  he  in- 
formed his  guest  that  he  had  taken  a  great  fancy  to  his 
military  jacket,  and  that  he  must  exchange  with  him. 
Hornsby  responded,  with  an  equal  amount  of  his  own 
vernacular  and  a  corresponding  quantity  of  signs,  to 
the  effect  that  the  jacket  of  his  host  was  much  too  siriall 
for  him,  and  that  he  was  not  disposed  to  trade.  The 
gentle  and  pretty  wife,  who  had  been  all  the  while 
watching  either  party,  now  interfered,  her  actions  plain- 
ly denoting  that  she  was  anxiously  entreating  her  hus- 
band not  to  entertain  their  guest  thus  rudely  and  un- 
charitably. Paying  no  heed  to  her  entreaties,  the  hus- 
band again  intimated  to  Hornsby  that  he  must  doff  his 
jacket — he  had  no  money  to  offer  him  in  exchange,  but 
then  he  had  given  him  a  ride,  a  drink,  and  a  breakfast, 
and,  as  a  return  for  these  civilities,  only  wished  to  ex- 
change jackets.  He  stripped  off  his  own,  notwithstand- 
ing his  wife's  opposition,  and  now  commenced  assisting 
his  guest  in  taking  off  the  much-desired  garment.  It 
was  a  forced  transfer,  contrary  to  the  laws  of  Mexico ; 
but  our  comrade  was  driven  into  the  transaction. 

The  Mexican  next  brought*  a  coarse,  thick,  and  heavy 
blanket,  which  he  wished  to  exchange  for  the  scarlet 
affair  belonging  to  Hornsby.  As  there  was  no  such 
thing  as  avoiding  a  trade  when  his  host  had  determined 
that  it  must  be,  our  comrade,  with  a  sorry  grace,  sub- 
K  K2 


390  A   CONSCIENTIOUS   WIFE. 

mitted  to  his  demands :  yet  this  time  he  really  got  the 
best  of  the  bargain,  for  the  blanket  he  received  was 
much  warmer  and  of  infinitely  more  service  than  the 
one  forced  from  him.  The  Mexican  now  pointed  to 
his  horse,  which  was  still  tied  in  front  of  the  dwelling, 
and  uttered  the  well-known  bamanos.*  It  was  now 
Hornsby's  turn  to  take  a  liberty.  Heretofore  his  host 
had  made  himself  exceedingly  free  on  a  very  limited 
acquaintance,  as  Hornsby  dryly  expressed  it :  the  latter 
now  bethought  him  that  he  would  pay  off  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  debt  in  kind.  He  therefore  walked  delib- 
erately to  the  sideboard,  poured  himself  out  a  stiff  glass 
of  brandy,  and  bowing  very  respectfully  to  his  host, 
tossed  it  off.  He  then  expressed  his  readiness  to  de- 
part, and  walking  out  of  the  house,  was  soon  seated  be- 
hind his  singular  host.  The  wife  now  made  her  ap- 
pearance with  the  new  blanket,  in  which  she  had  tied 
a  large  quantity  of  dried  beef.  Watching  an  oppor- 
tunity while  the  eyes  of  her  husband  were  turned  away, 
she  stealthily  slipped  a  quarter  of  a  dollar  into  the 
hands  of  Hornsby — probably  her  little  all.  A  tear 
stood  in  her  eye  as  she  murmured  "  Adios  Senor,"  for 
the  kind-hearted  creature  felt  deeply  mortified  at  the  in- 
hospitable manner  in  which  her  husband  had  treated  a 
guest.  Another  moment,  and  Hornsby  was  on  his  way 
to  rejoin  his  comrades,  the  Mexican  apparently  anxious 
to  escape  the  reproachful  looks  of  his  gentle  wife  ;  and 
ere  it  was  yet  dark  he  had  discharged  his  burden 
within  a  few  yards  of  our  camping-ground.  Such  was 
the  story  told  of  the  gay 'cavalier,  who,  by  his  dashing 
and  fearless  riding,  had  excited  our  warmest  admira- 
tion in  the  morning.  Was  ever  such  an  ingenious  trick 

*  Come,  let  us  be  moving — a  word  we  heard  forty  times  a  day,  and  the 
import  of  which  we  soon  understood. 


DEATH    OF    A    CAPTIVE.  391 

to  effect  an  exchange  of  clothing  ?  Salezar  was  prob- 
ably privy  to  the  whole  transaction,  else  he  would  have 
never  permitted  his  brother  Mexican  to  carry  off  one 
of  the  prisoners  in  such  a  manner.  The  self-esteem  of 
the  highwayman  would  not  allow  him  openly  to  rob 
our  comrade — he  thought  that  the  cloak  of  hospitality 
which  he  threw  over  his  act  more  than  covered  its  ras- 
cality. But  I  must  return  to  my  narrative  of  more  im- 
portant events. 

Late  on  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  October,  and  after 
a  march  of  uncommon  length,  we  reached  the  little  town 
of  Valencia.  Here  a  pint  of  flour  was  distributed  to 
each  of  the  prisoners ;  but  many  of  the  men  were  so 
tired,  faint,  and  sore,  from  the  long  and  continued 
marches,  and  from  cold  and  want  of  sleep  at  night, 
that  they  had  neither  the  will  nor  strength  to  cook  even 
this  scanty  ration.  On  the  contrary,  they  sank  imme- 
diately upon  the  cold  ground,  and  vainly  endeavoured 
to  smother  their  pains  and  sorrows  in  sleep.  Fitzgerald 
and  myself  had  better  quarters,  or  rather  a  better  bed, 
that  night,  than  our  fellows.  We  were  about  lying 
down,  immediately  in  front  of  a  small  house,  when  an 
old  woman  threw  us  out  a  couple  of  sheepskins  with  the 
wool  still  on.  With  these  between  us  and  the  cold 
ground  we  really  passed  a  comfortable  night. 

Not  so  one  of  our  unfortunate  companions.  On 
rising  in  the  morning,  it  was  found  that  a  man  named 
Ernest  had  died  during  the  night — died  from  hunger, 
cold,  and  fatigue,  and  without  even  the  knowledge  of 
the  man  sleeping  by  his  side  !  The  long  march  of  the 
previous  day  had  so  weakened  the  poor  Texan  that  on 
reaching  camp  he  had  sunk  to  the  ground  exhausted. 
He  soon  fell  asleep,  and  with  him  it  proved  to  be  the 
sleep  which  knows  no  waking !  Not  a  murmur,  not  a 


392  THE   LAST   INDIGNITY. 

groan  did  he  utter ;  but  when  his  companion  shook  him 
in  the  morning,  with  the  intention  of  arousing  him  to 
the  fatigues  and  sufferings  of  another  day,  the  lamp  of 
his  existence  had  burned  out,  or  rather  had  been  rudely 
smothered — he  was  stiff  and  cold  !  Salezar  immedi- 
ately ordered  one  of  his  men  to  cut  off  and  preserve  the 
dead  man's  ears,  as  a  token  that  he  had  not  escaped, 
and  by  the  orders  of  the  same  brute  the  body  was 
thrown  into  a  neighbouring  ditch.  An  American  with 
two  or  three  wagons,  who  was  on  his  way  from  the 
United  States  to  either  Monterey  or  Saltillo  with  ma- 
chinery, was  within  two  hundred  yards  of  us  all  the 
while,  and  saw  the  whole  transaction.  Salezar  would 
not  allow  us  to  hold  any  conversation  or  communicate 
with  this  man ;  but  we  afterward  learned  that  he  had 
been  an  overseer  on  some  plantation  near  New-Orleans, 
and  that  the  machinery  he  had  with  him  was  a  sugar- 
mill  on  a  large  scale,  which  he  had  been  employed  to 
set  in  operation  in  Mexico.  I  heard  the  man's  name, 
but  have  forgotten  it. 

Scarcely  had  the  events  occurred,  of  which  I  have 
given  a  brief  recital,  ere  we  were  ordered  to  form  in 
line  and  be  counted  before  resuming  the  march :  even 
before  we  could  finish  the  cooking  of  our  scanty  supply 
of  meal  into  thin  mush  we  were  compelled  to  move. 
Just  as  we  were  starting,  a  man  named  John  McAllis- 
ter, a  native  of  Tennessee  and  of  excellent  family,  com- 
plained that  one  of  his  ankles  was  badly  sprained,  and 
that  it  was  utterly  impossible  for  him  to  walk.  The 
unfortunate  man  was  naturally  lame  in  the  other  ankle, 
and  could  never  walk  but  with  difficulty  and  with  a 
limp.  On  starting,  he  was  now  allowed  to  enter  a  rude 
Mexican  cart,  which  had  been  procured  by  the  Alcalde 
of  Valencia  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  some  of  the 


MURDER    OF    MCALLISTER.  393 

«ick  and  lame  prisoners ;  but  before  it  had  proceeded  a 
mile  upon  the  road  it  either  broke  down  or  was  found 
to  be  too  heavily  loaded.  At  all  events,  McAllister 
was  ordered  by  Salezar  to  hobble  along  as  best  he 
might,  and  to  overtake  the  main  body  of  prisoners,  now 
some  quarter  of  a  mile  in  advance.  The  wretch  had 
frequently  told  those  who,  from  inability  or  weakness, 
had  fallen  behind,  that  he  would  shoot  them  rather  than 
have  the  march  delayed ;  not  that  there  was  any  ne- 
cessity for  the  hot  haste  with  which  we  were  driven,  but 
to  gratify  his  brutal  disposition  did  he  make  these  threats. 
Although  he  had  struck,  and  in  several  cases  severely 
beaten,  many  of  the  sick  and  lame  prisoners,  we  could 
not  believe  that  he  was  so  utterly  destitute  of  feeling,  so 
brutal,  as  to  murder  a  man  in  cold  blood  whose  only 
fault  was  that  he  was  crippled  and  unable  to  walk.  He 
could  easily  have  procured  transportation  for  all  if  he 
had  wished,  and  that  he  would  do  so  rather  than  shoot 
down  any  of  the  more  unfortunate  we  felt  confident : 
how  much  we  mistook  the  man  ! 

On  being  driven  from  the  cart,  McAllister  declared 
his  inability  to  proceed  on  foot.  Salezar  drew  his 
sword  and  peremptorily  ordered  him  to  hurry  on,  and 
this  when  he  had  half  a  dozen  led  mules,  upon  either  of 
which  he  could  have  placed  the  unfortunate  man. 
Again  McAllister,  pointing  to  his  swollen  and  inflamed 
ankle,  declared  himself  unable  to  walk.  Some  half  a 
dozen  of  his  comrades  were  standing  around  him,  with 
feelings  painfully  wrought  up,  waiting  the  denouement 
of  an  affair  which,  from  the  angry  appearance  of  Sale- 
zar, they  now  feared  would  be  tragical.  Once  more 
the  bloodthirsty  savage,  pointing  to  the  main  body  of 
prisoners,  ordered  the  cripple  to  hurry  forward  and 
overtake  them — he  could  not !  "  Forward  !"  said  Sale- 


394  SAFETY   IN    WEAKNESS. 

zar,  now  wrought  up  to  a  pitch  of  phrensy.  "  Forward, 
or  I'll  shoot  you  on  the  spot !"  "  Then  shoot !"  replied 
McAllister,  throwing  off  his  blanket  and  exposing  his 
manly  breast,  "  and  the  quicker  the  better  !"  Salezar 
took  him  at  his  word,  and  a  single  ball  sent  as  brave  a 
man  as  ever  trod  the  earth  to  eternity  !  His  ears  were 
then  cut  off,  his  shirt  and  pantaloons  stripped  from  him, 
and  his  body  thrown  by  the  roadside  as  food  for 
wolves ! 

A  thrill  of  horror  ran  through  the  crowd  of  prisoners 
as  the  news  spread  that  one  of  our  men  had  been  de- 
liberately shot  down  in  cold  blood,  and  deep  but  whis- 
pered threats  of  vengeance  for  this  most  unnatural  mur- 
der were  heard  upon  every  lip.  In  our  present  condi- 
tion we  could  do  nothing.  It  would  have  been  an  easy 
matter  for  us  to  rise  and  overpower  the  guard ;  but 
their  arms  were  worthless,  and  it  would  have  been  im- 
possible, unacquainted  as  we  were  with  the  country,  to 
cut  our  way  through  to  Texas  without  provisions.  And 
then,  as  I  once  before  remarked,  it  was  part  of  Salezar's 
policy  to  drive  us  along  and  tire  us  down  by  marches 
of  almost  incredible  length,  and  so  to  weaken  us  by 
scanty  food,  that  escape  would  be  next  to  impossible. 
Weak  as  we  were,  however,  had  our  guard  been  well 
armed  with  rifles  or  muskets,  and  with  plenty  of  ammu- 
nition, we  never  should  have  been  marched  to  the  Paso 
del  Norte  ;  but  those  who  had  charge  of  us  were  strong 
in  their  very  weakness.  Thus  wretchedly  we  were 
compelled  to  journey  forward  in  dreary  hope  of  fall- 
ing into  more  humane  hands  on  reaching  the  State  of 
Chihuahua. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  of  the  day  on  which  McAllister 
was  murdered  we  reached  the  Casa  Colorada,  or  Red 
House,  a  large  hacienda  and  trading  establishment  be- 


VALLEY  OF  THE  RIO  GRANDE.          395 

longing,  I  believe,  to  one  of  the  Chavez  family.  Pass- 
ing the  little  collection  of  houses,  we  entered  a  grove 
of  cotton-woods  near  the  Rio  Grande,  and  there  en- 
camped for  the  night.  From  the  time  when  we  first 
struck  the  valley  of  this  stream,  after  leaving  the  mount- 
ains in  the  neighbourhood  of  Santa  Fe,  to  that  when  we 
reached  the  Paso  del  Norte,  but  little  timber  was  seen, 
and  that  was  composed  exclusively  of  cotton-woods. 
The  inhabitants  are  very  saving  of  this  timber,  although 
it  is  exceedingly  soft  and  brittle  ;  yet,  as  they  can  ob- 
tain no  other  for  the  construction  of  their  rude  carts, 
ploughs,  and  other  implements,  its  uses  to  them  are  in- 
valuable. Sometimes  we  would  journey  for  days, 
hardly  seeing  a  tree  to  each  mile  we  travelled.  The 
few  fences,  like  the  houses,  are  constructed  of  adobes,  t* 
or  sun-dried  bricks,  square  instead  of  oblong,  and  per- 
haps four  times  the  size  of  ordinary  bricks.  Of  this  ma- 
terial nearly  all  the  dwellings  of  the  lower  classes  in 
Mexico  are  constructed.  The  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande, 
above  El  Paso,  is  of  unequal  width,  varying  from  a 
mile  and  a  half  to  four  or  five  miles,  and  in  some  places 
perhaps  more.  On  either  side  of  the  valley  rises  a 
chain  of  hills — some  of  them  may  deserve  the  name  of 
mountains — which  for  the  most  part  appeared  sterile  and  • 
destitute  of  vegetation.  The  valley  itself  is  generally 
fertile,  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  corn,  wheat,  beans, 
and  pumpkins  ;  not  a  potato,  either  sweet  or  Irish,  did 
we  see,  although  the  latter,  in  particular,  would  un- 
doubtedly attain  great  perfection.  Under  Anglo-Sax- 
on cultivation,  this  region  might  support  five  times  the 
population  it  now  contains  ;  still,  the  want  of  timber  and 
the  immense  distance  to  a  market,  will  always  present 
obstacles  to  emigration  in  that  direction. 

The  custom  had  been,  on  nearing  the  camp  each  aS- 


396  SALEZAR'S  CUPIDITY. 

ternoon,  for  the  prisoners  to  pick  up  every  little  chip 
and  twig  by  the  roadside,  wherewith  to  cook  their 
scanty  rations  of  dry  corn  or  meal ;  for  the  first  time, 
since  we  had  entered  the  valley,  we  now  found  a  suf- 
ficiency of  wood,  but  a  majority  of  us  had  nothing 
to  cook.  On  leaving  San  Miguel,  Armijo  had  given 
Salezar  eighteen  head  of  cattle,  some  of  the  oxen  taken 
from  the  Texans,  and  had  ordered  him  to  kill  them  for 
our  use.  I  will  even  give  the  governor  credit  by  be- 
lieving that  he  placed  a  quantity  of  the  goods  taken 
from  the  Texans  in  the  hands  of  Salezar,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  trading  them  for  breadstuff  on  the  road,  to  be 
appropriated  to  our  use  ;  yet,  up  to  this  time,  the  scoun- 
drel had  neither  killed  one  of  the  oxen  nor  disposed  of 
a  single  article  of  merchandise  for  anything  but  money, 
all  of  which  he  placed  in  his  own  pockets.  Our  suffer- 
ings were  plainly  a  gratification  to  him,  and  to  sustain 
life  he  compelled  us  to  depend  alone  upon  the  charities 
of  the  women,  or  upon  the  small  supply  of  corn  and 
meal  he  wrung,  by  threats  and  violence,  from  the  dif- 
ferent alcaldes  of  the  villages  through  which  we  pass- 
ed. In  the  mean  time,  to  still  the  inordinate  cravings 
of  hunger  and  to  procure  an  occasional  ride  upon  the 
animals  of  our  guard,  the  prisoners  had  disposed  of 
every  little  article  of  clothing  they  could  possibly  spare, 
frequently  exchanging  a  pair  of  their  own  woollen  pan- 
taloons for  the  ragged  breeches  of  the  Mexicans,  to 
purchase  a  ride  of  a  few  miles.  The  buttons,  too,  from 
their  clothing,  they  had  bartered  either  for  meal  or 
rides  ;  and  as  by  this  time  they  were  nearly  all  expend- 
ed, the  sufferings  of  the  majority  may  be  said  to  have 
fairly  commenced.* 

*  Buttons  commanded  a  high  price,  for  even  an  ordinary  iron  or  horn  ar- 
ticle, such  as  might  be  easily  purchased  for  six  cents  per  dozen  at  any  shop 


HEALING    A    CRIPPLE.  89*3 

I  cannot  leave  our  encampment  among  the  cotton 
woods  near  the  Casa  Colorada  without  relating  an  amu 
sing  story  told  that  evening  by  "  Old  Paint"  Caldwell. 
The  time  appeared  ill-assorted  with  merriment  and 
laughter,  yet  laugh  we  did,  and  heartily  too,  at  the  re- 
cital of  the  old  captain's  anecdote. 

Among  the  passengers  in  the  cart  with  poor  McAl- 
lister were  the  narrator  and  a  man  who  went  by  the 
soubriquet  of  "  Stump ;"  there  may  have  been  others, 
but  if  there  were  I  have  now  forgotten  their  names. 
In  the  morning,  before  starting,  Stump  had  declared 
that  he  could  not  walk  a  mile — to  save  his  life,  even — 
and  so  positive  was  he  upon  this  point,  that  a  place  was 
provided  for  him  in  the  cart.  When  this  vehicle  met 
with  the  accident,  of  course  Stump  was  thrown  upon 
his  feet  with  the  rest.  While  the  few  words  were 
passing  between  McAllister  and  Salezar,  and  previous 
to  the  inhuman  murder  of  the  former,  Stump  was  hob- 
bling about,  apparently  unable  to  walk  at  all :  his  feet 
were  sore,  his  knees  were  stiff,  and  not  a  bone  was 
there  in  his  body  that  did  not  pain  him  at  every  move- 
ment— he  was  curled  up,  the  picture  of  despair ;  but 
no  sooner  did  he  see  his  comrade  fall,  and  feel  the  cer- 
tainty that  he,  too,  would  meet  with  a  similar  fate  un- 
less he  put  his  powers  of  locomotion  in  immediate  ac- 
tion, than,  to  use  the  old  captain's  own  words,  Stump 
straightened  up  and  started  at  a  pace  that  would  have 
staggered  Captain  Barclay,  Ellworth,  or  the  greatest 

in  the  United  States,  in  New  Mexico  would  procure  for  one  of  our  prisoners 
a  ride  of  several  miles,  or  bread  enough  to  last  him  a  day.  Needles,  too, 
were  in  great  demand ;  one  of  our  men,  a  tailor,  who  had  been  fortunate 
enough  to  save  two  or  three  papers,  was  enabled  to  procure  an  ample  supply 
of  food,  and  also  to  have  a  mule  when  his  necessities  required.  This  infor- 
mation may  be  useful  to  some  itinerant  pedler  of  small  "  notions,"  although 
cannot  conscientiously  advise  him  to  visit  New  Mexico  for  a  market. 

VOL.  I.— L  L 


398  MEETING   WITH   COUNTRYMEN. 

pedestrian  mentioned  in  the  annals  of  "  tall  walking." 
Stump  went  by,  first  one,  then  another  of  his  compan- 
ions, and  never  abated  his  stride  until  he  was  in  the 
lead  of  the  whole  party  of  prisoners :  a  position  he  per- 
tinaciously kept  through  the  remainder  of  the  day,  and, 
in  fact,  during  the  march.  In  the  morning  he  could  not 
walk  a  mile ;  he  afterward  did  walk  something  like 
eighteen  hundred,  and  without  flagging.  This  story  of 
the  old  captain's  through,  we  cast  our  weary  limbs  upon 
the  earth,  and  as  the  grove  of  trees  in  which  we  were 
encamped  materially  deadened  the  force  of  the  wind, 
we  were  enabled  to  pass  a  more  comfortable  night  than 
any  since  we  left  San  Miguel. 

On  the  following  day  we  passed  the  long  train  of 
wagons  belonging  to  Mr.  Magoffin,  of  Chihuahua  — 
the  same  that  had  arrived  at  San  Miguel  from  St. 
Louis  while  we  were  there.  The  drivers  were  all 
Americans — brown,  healthy-looking  men ;  and  although 
strict  orders  were  given  by  Salezar  that  no  communi- 
cation should  be  held,  we  still  exchanged  a  few  words 
with  them  as  we  passed.  It  brought  back  old  times 
and  old  recollections  to  see  these  men,  fresh  from  my 
own  country,  and  anxiously  did  I  wish  that  I  might  ob- 
tain an  hour's  conversation  with  them,  an  opportunity  to 
learn  the  news  from  the  United  States,  if  nothing  more  ; 
I  could  only  wish,  as  Salezar  took  especial  care  that 
my  desires  should  not  be  gratified. 

A  little  before  sundown  we  reached  the  village  of 
Joya,  and  here  our  men  were  allowed  a  shelter  for  the 
night  in  two  or  three  old  and  abandoned  rooms.  A 
fandango  was  got  up  during  the  evening  in  the  town, 
at  which  Howard,  Van  Ness,  and  two  or  three  of  our 
officers  were  allowed  to  be  present.  Here  they  met 
several  of  the  Americans  we  had  passed  during  the 


A    WELCOME    RELIEF.  399 

day,  their  encampment  being  in  the  skirts  of  the  village 
close  by.  Salezar  became  much  intoxicated  during 
the  evening,  and  with  the  fumes  of  whiskey  in  his  head 
grew  insolent  and  overbearing  towards  the  drivers. 
Fortunately,  they  came  well  provided  with  bowie- 
knives,  thinking  they  might  possibly  be  insulted;  and 
no  sooner  had  Salezar  commenced  his  insolence  than 
he.  was  driven — I  believe  kicked — from  the  room,  the 
cowardly  wretch  not  daring  even  to  open  his  mouth 
after  their  weapons  were  drawn. 

By  making  an  early  start  on  the  following  morning, 
we  were  enabled  to  reach  Parrida,  a  small  town  im- 
mediately on  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande,  by  the  mid- 
dle of  the  afternoon.  Here,  in  the  plaza,  we  stopped 
for  the  night ;  and  here,  after  an  allowance  of  a  pint  of 
meal  had  been  measured  out  to  each  man  by  the  al- 
calde and  Salezar,  we  were  permitted  to  make  and  eat 
our  poor  mush  in  peace  and  quietness.  At  Parrida  I 
was  also  fortunate  in  purchasing  a  pair  of  heavy  and 
substantial  shoes,  after  walking  several  days  in  a  pair 
of  soleless  moccasins,  which  let  in  the  gravel  at  every 
step  upon  the  numerous  blisters  that  covered  my  feet. 
I  had  not  a  little  difficulty  in  making  change  with  the 
zapatero  of  whom  I  purchased,  for  the  piece  of  gold  I 
tendered  him  in  payment  I  was  anxious  to  keep  from 
the  eyes  of  Salezar.  The  brute  knew  that  I  had  a 
small  sum  of  money  about  me  —  some  few  dollars. 
Had  he  suspected  the  large  amount  in  gold  and  jewel- 
ry I  had  concealed  in  those  ragged  and  dirty  vestments 
of  mine,  he  would  soon  have  found  a  pretext  for  send- 
ing me  to  keep  company  with  the  murdered  McAllister. 

After  a  hasty  breakfast  of  mush,  on  the  following 
morning,  we  were  once  more  upon  our  journey.  A 
short  walk  brought  us  to  the  banks  of  the  Rio  Grande, 


400  APACHE   INDIANS. 

here  some  three  or  four  hundred  yards  in  width.  The 
water  was  cold  and  waist  deep  to  our  men,  yet  we 
were  obliged  to  ford  it,  and  when  once  safely  upon  the 
opposite  side,  we  had  entered  Mexican  territory  for  the 
first  time.  I  say  for  the  first  time,  because  Texas 
claims  to  the  Rio  Grande,  and,  sooner  or  later,  this  will 
be  her  boundary  line. 

An  hour's  brisk  march  along  the  river  banks  brought 
us  to  Socorro,  the  last  settlement  before  reaching  El 
Paso.  What  the  exact  distance  between  the  iwo 
places  is  I  have  now  forgotten,  but  it  cannot  be  far 
from  two  hundred  miles.  As  Salezar  had  to  make  a 
demand  on  the  alcalde  for  corn  and  meal  enough  to 
sustain  us  across  the  long  and  dreary  waste  yet  to 
travel,  we  were  permitted  to  remain  at  Socorro  until 
the  following  day.  That  the  inhabitants  of  this  frontier 
town  were  a  pack  of  thieving,  cheating,  swindling 
scoundrels,  we  ascertained  beyond  doubt  before  we 
had  been  in  the  place  two  hours.  I  remember,  per- 
fectly well,  that  a  small  party  of  us  paid  for  a  supper 
twice  at  this  place,  and  that,  because  we  would  not  pay 
for  it  a  third  time,  the  master  of  the  house  became  very 
much  incensed. 

When  we  were  at  Socorro,  a  party  of  Indians,  belong- 
ing to  the  large  and  powerful  tribe  of  Apaches,  were 
encamped  in  the  vicinity.  They  live,  for  the  most  part, 
in  a  rough  and  mountainous  country,  yet,  like  the  Ca- 
manches  and  Pawnees,  are  ever  on  horseback,  and  are 
daring  and  skilful  riders.  With  the  inhabitants  of  the 
States  of  Chihuahua  and  Durango  they  are  at  continual 
and  open  war,  murdering  and  robbing  the  inhabitants 
whenever  opportunity  offers  ;  yet  with  the  people  of 
New  Mexico  they  are  at  peace,  and  the  plunder  they 
obtain  in  their  incursions  into  the  former  states  is  sold  to 


VISIT   FROM   A    CHIEF.  401 

the  citizens  of  the  latter,  who  are  ever  found  ready  pur- 
chasers !  A  pretty  state  of  things,  truly,  but  so  it  is.  I 
was  told  that  many  of  the  horses  of  New  Mexico  really 
belonged  to  persons  in  the  former  states,  and  that  the 
purchasers  bought  them  with  powder  and  lead,  know- 
ing that  it  was  to  be  used  against  their  neighbours  and 
brethren  !  Armijo  and  some  of  his  principal  officers 
probably  know  more  about  this  singular  and  most  un- 
righteous compact,  and  of  the  profits  arising  from  the 
trade^  with  these  Indian  banditti,  than  any  other  persons 
in  Mexico. 

While  at  Socorro,  one  of  the  prisoners,  who  was  a 
Catholic,  obtained  permission  to  visit  the  priest  of  the 
place.  The  real  object  of  the  man  was,  to  obtain  some- 
thing in  the  way  of  solid  assistance — something  to  eat 
upon  the  road — temporal  rather  than  spiritual  aid  and 
consolation.  The  priest  gave  him  absolution  and  a 
small  bundle  of  shuck  cigars !  I  do  not  mention  this 
circumstance  to  stigmatize  the  holy  fathers  generally  of 
Mexico,  for  we  found  a  majority  of  them  liberal  and 
enlightened  men,  and  disposed  to  assist  us  as  far  as  was 
in  their  power. 

On  the  morning  of  the  29th  of  October  we  left  Socor- 
ro without  regret ;  for  although  its  name  signifies  suc- 
cour or  assistance,  we  found  none  within  its  inhospitable 
gates.  We  had  travelled  but  a  short  distance  before 
the  head  or  principal  chief  of  the  Apaches,  with  a  small 
retinue  of  his  warriors,  was  seen  rapidly  dashing  over 
a  hill,  having  ridden  out  especially  to  see  los  Americanos, 
as  they  called  us,  who  had  surrendered  their  arms  to 
the  New  Mexicans.  At  one  time  the  inhabitants  of 
Chihuahua  had  employed  a  number  of  American  adven- 
turers in  different  expeditions  against  the  Apaches,  and 
in  every  engagement  the  former  were  able  to  bring 
L  L2 


402  A   DIGNIFIED   SAVAGE. 

about,  the  Indians  were  defeated  with  no  little  loss. 
The  rifles  of  the  Americans  told  with  signal  advantage 
against  the  bows  and  arrows,  lances,  and  ineffective 
Spanish  carbines  of  their  adversaries,  fought  they  ever 
so  bravely ;  and  now  that  one  of  the  principal  chiefs 
of  the  latter  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  some  of  the 
countrymen  of  their  much-dreaded  enemies,  he  did  not 
miss  the  opportunity. 

A  more  dignified  savage  in  appearance  than  this 
chief  I  have  never  seen.  He  was  about  the  mjddle 
height,  strong,  and  well  built,  some  sixty-five  or  seven- 
ty years  of  age,  and  with  hair  as  white  as  snow.  He 
was  dressed  in  an  oldfashioned  blue  military  coat  and 
blue  pantaloons ;  a  huge  pair  of  gold  epaulettes  graced 
his  shoulders,  while  his  head  was  covered  with  a  Conti- 
nental tri-cocked  hat,  such  as  was  worn  by  our  grand- 
fathers in  the  days  of  the  Revolution.  His  countenance 
was  stern,  strongly  marked,  and  very  expressive,  and 
he  was  mounted  upon  a  large  and  powerful  gray  char- 
ger of  fine  action,  and  apparently  of  good  blood. 

He  rode  up  to  the  head  of  the  line,  in  company  with 
Salezar.  As  we  passed  in  review  before  him,  a  ragged, 
beggared,  and  emaciated  throng,  the  old  man  examined 
us  with  the  eye  of  an  eagle — his  thoughts  could  not  be 
divined.  Salezar  appeared  polite  even  to  obsequious- 
ness in  presence  of  this  man,  and  it  was  intimated  at  the 
time  that  he  stood  in  much  fear  lest  the  old  chief  might 
take  it  into  his  head  to  rescue  us  from  his  hands,  a 
matter  he  might  easily  have  accomplished.  What 
would  have  been  our  fate  had  he  done  so — whether  he 
would  have  sacrificed  us  on  the  spot  in  revenge  for  the 
losses  he  had  sustained  at  the  hands  of  our  countrymen, 
or  taken  us  to  the  mountains,  is  a  question  I  am  unable 
to  answer.  One  thing  I  do  know — had  he  called  for 


THE   DEAD   MAN*8   JOURNEY.  403 

volunteers  to  act  against  any  part  of  Mexico,  and  prom- 
ised to  arm  all  that  came,  he  might  have  got  them  to 
the  full  extent  of  our  number.  After  the  last  stragglers 
had  passed  him,  the  old  chief  turned  his  horse  and  rode 
over  the  hills  in  the  direction  whence  he  came.  His 
followers  were  dressed  much  in  the  general  Indian  cos- 
tume— buckskin  shirts,  leggins,  and  the  usual  quantity 
of  feathers  and  finery.  I  also  noticed,  while  in  Socorro, 
that  the  Apaches  have  the  besetting  sin  of  all  the  abo- 
rigines of  America :  several  of  them  were  seen  reeling 
about  upon  their  horses,  so  drunk  that  they  could  with 
difficulty  keep  their  seats. 

After  a  walk  of  unusual  length  across  a  bend  of  the 
Rio  Grande — I  say  unusual,  for  it  was  nearly  forty 
miles — we  reached,  just  at  dark,  a  large  grove  of  cotton- 
woods  close  upon  the  river  bank.  This  grove  was  call- 
ed the  Bosque  de  los  Apaches,  or  Wood  of  the  Apaches, 
and  afforded  us  one  of  the  best  camping-grounds  on  the 
journey.  We  recrossed  the  river  at  an  early  hour  on 
the  following  morning,  and  another  long  and  tiresome 
march  brought  us  to  Fray  Cristobal,  the  last  camping- 
ground  before  entering  the  noted  Dead  Man's  Journey  ! 
This  is  a  well-known  stretch  of  ninety  miles,  across  a 
large  bend  of  the  river.*  To  avoid  many  weary  miles, 
a  road  has  been  worn  directly  through  the  centre  of 
this  bend  by  the  travel  of  years.  It  is  a  level,  sterile, 
and  desolate  plain — a  desert  with  no  vegetation  save 
here  and  there  a  few  stunted  thorns,  different  species 
of  the  cactus  of  dwarf-like  proportions,  and  clumps  of 
one  of  the  smaller  kinds  of  palm,  growing  to  the  height 
of  some  six  or  seven  feet,  with  long,  coarse  leaves 

*  The  Mexicans  call  this  noted  stretch  La  Jornada  del  Muerto,  or  The 
Journey  of  the  Dead  Man— our  men  gave  it  the  name  of  the  Dead  Man's 
Journey,  and  by  that  title  I  designate  it. 


404  A    SNOW   STORM. 

branching  up  from  the  roots,  and  forming  a  very  mat 
from  the  closeness  with  which  they  grow  together. 
These  clumps  were  called  bear  grass  by  our  men,  and 
at  a  little  distance  they  resembled  long  and  slender 
bundles  of  coarse  straw.  Near  the  centre  of  the  desert 
is  the  Dead  Man's  Lake,*  which,  during  the  spring  and 
early  summer,  is  filled  with  water ;  but  when  we  cross- 
ed its  bed  was  perfectly  dry. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  at  the  camping-ground  of 
Fray  Cristobal,  a  bleak,  sandy  point  of  land  formed  by  a 
slight  curve  in  the  Rio  Grande,  Salezar  ordered  that 
the  poorest  and  most  travel-worn  of  the  eighteen  oxen 
given  him  at  San  Miguel  by  Armijo  should  be  killed  for 
the  prisoners,  taking  most  especial  care,  however,  that 
all  the  better  portions — everything  really  fit  to  eat — 
should  be  reserved  for  himself  and  his  friends.  Poor 
and  tough  as  was  this  meat,  our  men  swallowed  it  with 
an  avidity  absolutely  wolfish.  The  scanty  meal  over, 
they  rolled  themselves  in  their  blankets  and  once  more 
sought  such  rest  as  the  cold  ground  might  afford  them. 

During  the  earlier  part  of  the  evening  the  wind  was 
biting  and  chilly,  but  at  midnight  the  weather  moder- 
ated, and  then  commenced  a  violent  fall  of  snow.  I 
drew  my  blanket  entirely  over  my  head,  thought  of 
home  and  its  comforts,  and  while  thinking  of  them  fell 
asleep  ;  for  the  snow,  as  it  lodged  upon  my  scanty  cov- 
ering, imparted  a  warmth  to  which  I  had  long  been 
stranger. 

When  morning  light  came  I  raised  my  head  and  sur- 
veyed the  scene.  Far  as  the  eye  could  reach  the  face 
of  nature  was  clothed  in  white,  the  snow  having  fallen 
to  the  depth  of  five  or  six  inches.  My  companions 
were  lying  thick  around  me,  their  heads  and  all  con- 

*  Called  by  the  Mexicans,  LagunadelMuerto,  or  Lake  of  the  Dead  Man. 

THE  LIBRARY 

UNIVEivS/i  Y  OF  CALIFORNIA 


LIVING   MOUNDS.  405 

cealed,  and  more  resembled  logs  imbedded  in  snow 
than  anything  else  to  which  I  can  compare  them.  No 
one  would  have  supposed  that  animated  beings  were 
under  those  little  mounds  were  it  not  that  from  many 
of  them  a  hollow,  hacking,  and  half-suppressed  cough 
proceeded.  The  two  or  three  nights  we  had  passed 
within  doors,  huddled  some  thirty  or  forty  in  rooms 
scarcely  capacious  enough  for  three  or  four,  had  given 
nearly  all  extremely  bad  colds — colds  they  were  unable 
either  to  guard  against  or  cure. 


END    OP    VOL.    I. 


1MGELES 


MAY  .*  •       5 


tCEfVED 


1975 


A    001413322    7 


